Lancashire The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Lancashire

Si King and Dave Myers explore Lancashire, where they cook a traditional county favourite at Blackburn Cathedral. They also dig up the first crop of Ormskirk potatoes.


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Transcript


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We're the Hairy Bikers! And we're on the road to find regional recipes.

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-We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British. Come on!

-Wahey!

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Today we're in search of the real taste of Lancashire.

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Oh, look at it, Kingy. It's fantastic!

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I live just the other side of that wind farm.

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But that's Cumbria, this is Lancashire and it's fantastic.

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You cannot come to Lancashire without coming to Blackpool.

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It's a very good place to start.

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To the north you've got the ancient city of Lancaster.

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The Dukes of Lancaster, the Wars of the Roses.

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To the east, great national parks, rolling countryside, great farming,

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and down south you've got great cities like Preston and Wigan,

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the Northern Soul, the Wigan Casino. There's fantastic traditional food.

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It's not all fish and chips, cow heel, tripe, rock, sticky lollies and candy floss.

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We've got great treasure here and there's a plethora of Michelin-starred restaurants.

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Hold on, what's the matter with that? I like that.

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I like tripe and cows' heels and I like rock.

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Nor is there anything wrong with a candy floss

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and I'm not coming to Blackpool and I'm certainly not leaving without having a bit of both.

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To find the true flavours of Lancashire, we head up to Blackburn

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to cook up a county favourite that really warms the cockles.

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And we go quackers in the search of the best duck in the North West.

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-Look at that, man.

-Help yourself.

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And we dig for the diamonds of the dirt, Ormskirk new potatoes.

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The first of the season.

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And representing Lancashire in the cook-off later is Nigel Howarth,

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but we will we be able to beat him in a blind tasting judged by local diners?

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Well, we're right in the heart of Lancashire. This is Accrington.

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There is Accrington Market and it's one of those real traditional

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Lancashire markets where we'll find good old-fashioned Lancashire food.

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And just over there in the Town Hall is the Lancashire Food Festival.

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So, you see, we've got the past, the present and the future.

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Put that together, we're gonna get Lancashire on a plate. Come on, let's go traditional first.

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-The best of both worlds, dude.

-I know.

-Tripe, I love tripe.

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-I hate tripe, I hate tripe.

-Why? It's nice, man.

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Oh, no, it's horrible. It's disgusting stuff...

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Lancashire food on a plate, to you, what is it?

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Cheese and onion pie.

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-Oh, right.

-Oh, yes. Yeah. Anything else?

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-Corned beef hash pie.

-What other treats do we have in Lancashire?

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I like Eccles cakes. They're tasty.

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-What is an Eccles cake?

-It's pastry with raisins in.

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Oh, we used to call it dead fly pie.

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What are these here, look?

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-Butter pies.

-It's mashed potato, onion and butter.

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-It might be nice with a slice of that.

-Yeah. There you are.

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Give it here, give it here and I can have a look, love.

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So, this isn't jelly like the other?

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Yeah, this is in jelly.

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That's set - boiled together in a mould and then put in moulds, you see, with butter.

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You're buying tripe!

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-I am buying tripe.

-And what do you do with it?

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Cut it up, salt and vinegar, pepper.

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In front of the telly on a Saturday afternoon watching the match?

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-Oh, no, not in front of t'telly.

-Do you sit at the table, proper?

-Yes.

-Oh, well, good, good.

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Oh, lovely. Yes. Yes, that bit.

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-Dave, do you want a bit?

-Absolutely not.

-Why? It's nice!

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I've eaten scorpions, coconut grubs...

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No, I couldn't.

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Don't!

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I tell you one thing, though, that I do see that was a treasure of my youth.

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-What's that?

-A savoury duck.

-A what?

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I haven't seen those for years. Now, Kingy, here's some real food.

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Put that obscene obscenity away.

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It's a bit like a faggot, a rissole or haslet.

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Now, that's a thing of beauty. Do you know what's in a savoury duck?

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-Pork and seasoning.

-Pork and seasoning.

-And herbs.

-And herbs.

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-Kingy?

-What?

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Prepare to taste something lovely.

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Try that. That's proper.

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I like that.

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It goes well with the tripe.

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What to you is a famous Lancashire dish? What's the great produce?

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The hotpot, I would imagine. Yeah, the hotpot.

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-Lancashire hotpot.

-How do you make your hotpot? Any tips?

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Good quality meat, skirting.

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Skirting? Do you do a beef hotpot?

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-Yes.

-BOTH: Ah!

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-What meat do you have in your hotpot?

-You can have lamb.

-Right.

-Lamb cutlets.

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-That would be a posh hotpot.

-It would.

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I like it done with bacon, hotpot.

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-With mint sauce in it.

-Mint sauce?

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-If you're cooking it, yeah.

-Right.

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Oh, that's a nice little take, isn't it?

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-What's it going to be, mate? It's got to be hotpot, hasn't it?

-It has got to be.

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But it's incredible, every family's got their own traditions.

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One thing my mother used to do, she always put black pudding in it to make a gravy.

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My mam used to put lamb's kidney in it.

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We just need the wherewithal for a good hotpot. We've decided on chump chops. So we need about 2kg.

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-Two kilos of beef.

-Two and a half, mate, please.

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-Yeah, that would be grand.

-What do you tend to use for hotpot?

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-Something similar.

-Yeah?

-Similar - boneless lamb, yeah.

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Or we do use the beef, stew beef.

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-Yes, a lot of people like beef skirt.

-Yeah.

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-Do you like Lancashire food?

-I love it.

-And what's your favourite?

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-Black peas, probably.

-What are black peas? I've never heard of them.

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Black peas are...

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Well, we've got... We're selling them outside.

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-Are you?

-They're absolutely lovely.

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-Are these yours?

-You want me to show you?

-Can you?

-Great.

-Oh, brilliant.

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-Is this your stall?

-Yeah.

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He said the favourite thing to eat in Lancashire is Lancashire black peas and I've no idea what one is.

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They're like the green peas, but they're black. They're maple peas.

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-Maple peas?

-Maple peas.

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-Thank you. Wow!

-Try some of them.

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-Oh, they're lovely.

-Oh, hey, they're great.

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-Nutty, aren't they?

-Yeah, they're like mushy peas, but nutty.

-Yeah.

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-They're lovely.

-We've got to find something to do with these, mate.

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As cooks it's our responsibility to bring the black pea to the nation.

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You're not wrong.

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Oh, hey, well done, Jordan.

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-Thank you.

-Well done.

-Thank you very much.

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Come with us.

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This is Accrington Town Hall and this is the Lancashire Food Festival.

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So, it's off to find the last of our ingredients for our take on the legendary Lancashire hotpot.

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Why is black pudding such a Lancashire tradition?

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-Because it wholesome.

-We need some, Kingy.

-We do.

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Could we just have four of the traditional fatty ones?

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-Fatty ones? You certainly can.

-Are there any other delicacies

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that we should know about in Lancashire?

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Oh, yes! There's a very famous Wigan kebab.

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What's a Wigan kebab?

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-It's five meat and potato pies on a poker!

-THEY LAUGH

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That's a pie eater's delight.

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A pie eater's delight.

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We're off to Blackburn, home to a beautiful cathedral

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and the perfect place to cook up our take on this county favourite.

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Traditional Lancashire hotpot.

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We're in Blackburn outside Blackburn Cathedral

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and we're cooking Lancashire's favourite, the hotpot.

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He's not wrong! Now, the thing is, everybody in Lancashire

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and every Lancashire family has a different recipe for a hotpot.

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But what we've done is combine them together and we're going to give you the Hairy Bikers' family hotpot.

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It may be controversial, but there's no carrots in our hotpot.

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-No! Controversial it may be.

-My mam's tip is, she used to put black pudding in the hotpot.

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The black pudding disintegrates and gives you a thick, black pudding gravy.

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My mam, she used to put kidney in it just for a little textual difference, you see?

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The first thing we've got is lamb. We're using chump chops

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because there's a lot of meat - it's extravagant but we don't care.

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The first thing we've got to do is to brown the meat and the kidneys.

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Ooh! I think that's a bit hot.

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It's the only thing that is!

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Right, core them kidneys.

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That bit's chewy. You get ahold of the little end of it,

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then you just cut across it like that, you see?

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Look, like that. That bit there we don't want. So, then you turn it over

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and you cut across like that, you see?

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And there you go, that's it out. Simple enough.

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This kind of rindy, fatty bit, I'm cutting the majority of this off

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because I don't like stringy bits in food.

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Now, this needs to be brown, so we put that on there and I'll do my first batch.

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Don't crowd the pan with this because what we want to do

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is to brown the meat, we don't want to poach it.

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-Right.

-Oh, garlic... I'll carry on skinning.

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A hotpot is one of the most lovely dishes, isn't it?

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It's comforting, it's lovely.

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The longer you cook it, the better it gets.

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But you see, what's beginning to happen is already

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all those lovely meat juices are in the pan

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and we just keep building that up and using those flavours.

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Dude, just as well we're not cooking rabbit!

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Oh, darling!

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I didn't mean it. I didn't mean it! I'm sorry, God. I'm sorry.

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-Do you like hotpot?

-Yeah.

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Yeah? Does your mam make it at home?

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-Dad does.

-Your dad does.

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Have you got any top tips for me for making hotpot, sir?

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Put carrots in!

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LAUGHTER

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We've browned the meat and now we'll just colour the kidneys.

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The kidneys are browning nicely.

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Next step is to sweat down the onions, but we don't want to brown the onion.

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A brown onion is not a good thing.

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Here we are skinning a black pudding in Blackburn,

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which is as fine a place as any to skin a black pudding, I suppose.

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It's time to start making the gravy.

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We want good, thick gravy, none of your drizzly staff. So,

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to do the thickening, I put in about two tablespoons of plain flour.

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Put the flour in straight on the onions

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and stir the flour with the onions.

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Now, the thing is, the flour clings to the onions, cooks a bit,

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and every morsel of stock, liquor and juice that clings to an onion

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will miraculously become thick and luscious.

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To this add some good lamb stock.

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Now we start building the flavours. A couple of bay leaves. These are only little ones.

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And some thyme.

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Now, the secret ingredient, Worcester sauce.

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A nice big slug. This is thickening up a treat.

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-Can you smell that? I've just got a waft. It's lovely, isn't it? Oh, ho, ho!

-Salt and pepper.

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That's all the meat juices. You put them in

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and that's going to make more and more gravy.

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There's a few escapees in there, but they're fine.

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We need to butter the pan.

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This is the pan for the hotpot and a mighty fine pan it is, too.

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-Right, mate, I'm going to slice the potatoes.

-So, grease the dish.

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It's a layered dish, the hotpot,

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and it's important you do the layers in the right order

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because you want some potatoes soggy, some whole and some crispy.

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So, butter in the hotpot, start layering the potatoes.

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So, layer two, the meat layer.

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I want half of the meat and kidneys in there.

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That goes on to the potatoes.

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Now, we cover that with a layer of black pudding.

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Look at the size of this hotpot!

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Now, big blobs of the onion gravy with the herbs. They go on there.

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Now, it's worth hanging about for, isn't it? I mean, it is.

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-Are you're getting it now?

-Are you getting it?

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And more potatoes. Layer it up.

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Salt and pepper, mustn't forget that.

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Finish up topping with the meat.

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All of it's gone in now.

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-This is the Rolls Royce of hotpots.

-Oh, it is.

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Top up with the remainder of the thick, gloopy onion gravy.

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There's plenty of liquid in the potatoes.

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I need another potato.

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I'm going to murder you, I am.

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Now, this is the one that has to be done carefully, so it's like some beautifully arranged fish scales.

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Just spiral them like that. It takes a little while,

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but it's worth it.

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And when it goes golden it will all be crispy and lovely and dead appetising.

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Salt and pepper.

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Look at that, it's like a chrysanthemum's head.

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You could show that at the Chelsea Flower Show.

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So, we dot this with little cubes of butter, and this will make the potatoes go golden.

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Now, the moment has come that, rather than wait three hours, what happens now? What do we say?

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One, two, three!

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ALL: Here's one we made earlier!

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-Yes!

-You could be a choir, you lot, couldn't you?

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-That's a hotpot.

-That's a hot, hot, hot handle.

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Time to have to look what's been going on inside.

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-Oh, look at that, Dave, man. Look at that!

-And then we dig down.

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Look at that. Have you seen that bit there?

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Yeah. And look at the onions.

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And, with this, a big chunk of crusty Lancashire-baked bread.

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I'll just put a few sprinkles just to... Just a bit of herbage.

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There we are. Now, that's a nice plate of food to come home to.

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Love it or loathe it, it's the Hairy Bikers' family hotpot.

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Now, it's the moment of truth. What will the locals make of our Hairy Lancashire hotpot?

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-What do you think of the hotpot?

-Nice.

-Yeah?

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-It doesn't need a carrot in.

-No, it doesn't.

-See, told you!

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Fantastic. Absolutely brilliant. Better than my grandma's.

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The black pudding just adds a bit of spiciness to it.

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-Really nice.

-I didn't even miss the carrots.

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It's different, because I wouldn't have put black pudding in it.

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I've put kidneys in before, but I will do now, I'll try that. It's good. Really tasty.

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-It's the first time I've had hotpot.

-Is it?

-Yeah.

-Really?

-Yeah.

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-Oh, well, that's fantastic!

-Will it be the last?

-No.

-No.

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Actually, it's something that makes you feel like all your problems would go away when you're just eating this.

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-Yeah, nice comforting food. What about you, son?

-Perfect.

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-Yeah?

-I don't even like black pudding, either.

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Our Lancashire hotpot went down a treat with the people of Blackburn.

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Next, an even bigger challenge

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is just around the corner. As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs

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in their restaurant, using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

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It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Lancashire.

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Our opponent today is...

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Nigel Howarth.

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Head chef and owner of Northcote near Blackburn.

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Nigel has been championing local food long before it became fashionable.

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Northcote has become a favourite destination for foodies and chefs alike.

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The restaurant is all about modern British cooking with roots firmly in Lancashire.

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I think my approach to food here is to try and serve the food

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as beautifully as I can, but I'm really all about flavours.

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Presentation is detail, but I don't like to over-gild the lily.

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We've just got a bounty of produce. It's such a wonderful area to work in.

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We've got great cheesemakers in the Beacon Fell area,

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over to the Fylde Coast for our shrimps,

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and then we've got fantastic beef, lamb and pork, indigenous breeds such as Lonk Lamb.

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Andrew, the gardener here, is absolutely fantastic and we grow ten months of the year here.

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We won a Michelin star in 1996.

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We've also been voted the best food in Britain, which was this year, so I think we're doing OK.

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To take on the Bikers, my taste of Lancashire is wood pigeon breast,

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leg parcel, new season's mushrooms and spinach and a celeriac sauce.

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I feel the Bikers are in for their toughest challenge yet.

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Hey, hey!

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-Hiya, Nigel.

-Hi, Dave, good to see you.

-Nice to see you.

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-Nigel, all right, man? How are you?

-How's things?

-Good, man. And you?

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-Yeah, good. Do you fancy a brew?

-Oh, not half!

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-It's Lancashire! It's Lancashire!

-He said the magic words!

-Come on in, then.

-Fantastic.

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Headline your dish. How would it appear on the menu?

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Right, wood pigeon breast, leg parcel, mushrooms, spinach with celeriac sauce.

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Does that sound Lancashire?

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-No.

-No!

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What I'm going to do with the pigeon is whip its legs off,

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turn it on to one side... Crack it open,

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and then I'm just going to take the undercarriage off, like so.

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What I do then with those is whack them into a vacuum-pack bag.

0:16:440:16:49

Dave, put them in the water bath at 68 for 24 minutes.

0:16:490:16:53

-At 68 degrees, Chef.

-The timer's on there, Simon,

0:16:530:16:56

if you'd like to operate the timer.

0:16:560:16:58

-Right. Yeah, no problem.

-The legs, as we bob them in there,

0:16:580:17:01

we put some fresh thyme and some sea salt on,

0:17:010:17:05

then we're going to leave them for four hours, wash it off and slow cook them,

0:17:050:17:09

-and then, hey presto! We've mixed it with some livers...

-Right.

-And we've made balls.

0:17:090:17:13

What sort of liver's that? Chicken liver and pigeon liver.

0:17:130:17:17

So, what we could do now, is we could make the leg meat parcel.

0:17:170:17:21

We've got a little bit of this brick paste. It's like filo, but it's...

0:17:210:17:25

Well, what's it for, Nigel?

0:17:250:17:26

-You can wrap anything in it...

-Putting windows in!

-We're going to cut it into shreds...

-Ooh!

0:17:260:17:31

..then we're going to fry the parcels in it.

0:17:310:17:33

-I like this. This is tricks.

-Pop that through and wind it.

-You pop, I'll wind.

0:17:330:17:37

What's the matter with a knife?

0:17:370:17:40

Yeah, but you get a uniformity that a Michelin-starred chef at this level commands.

0:17:400:17:44

-Exactly.

-Oh, God!

0:17:440:17:46

Behind you is that butter and the brush.

0:17:460:17:49

If you just loosely brush the paste... That's it, loosely brush it.

0:17:490:17:53

-Did you invent this?

-Sort of...

0:17:530:17:54

Sort of borrowed off a mate of mine,

0:17:540:17:56

I think is the best description.

0:17:560:17:58

Right, and then what I want you to do, Dave,

0:17:580:18:01

is just wrap it loosely round.

0:18:010:18:02

-Right.

-Just strands. Then we'll deep-fry those on about 160, 170.

0:18:020:18:08

-Right.

-For how long, Nigel?

0:18:080:18:10

About two to three minutes.

0:18:100:18:12

We've got some celeriac puree here. We've cut down a lot on the cream.

0:18:120:18:16

It's mainly sweated off with a little bit of butter.

0:18:160:18:19

-That's fabulous.

-A touch of cream.

-Huge flavour.

0:18:190:18:21

-Fabulous.

-And milk in there.

0:18:210:18:23

All I've got in here is just caster sugar and a little drop of water.

0:18:250:18:28

-Right.

-We need some hazelnuts.

0:18:280:18:30

I've peeled them, so I'm hoping now that this should be like a thread.

0:18:300:18:36

-Yes! Can you see that?

-You can see that, that's it.

-Yeah.

0:18:360:18:40

-Put the pan into the iced water...

-A double act!

-..to stop it cooking.

0:18:400:18:44

One for your fingers, the other for your pan.

0:18:440:18:46

Pop the hazelnuts in and mix them around there,

0:18:460:18:50

-and then I've got some Maldon sea salt.

-Yes.

0:18:500:18:52

I'll put that onto there.

0:18:520:18:54

Just get a few in there.

0:18:550:18:56

OK? Right, just shake them in the salt there

0:18:570:19:02

and there you go. You see, you just leave them to cool down and, hey presto!

0:19:040:19:07

-Within minutes...

-Within minutes they're there.

0:19:070:19:10

So, I'm going to put them in. Lads, don't eat them.

0:19:100:19:12

-No.

-No, no. No, we won't, we won't.

-We'll hold back.

0:19:120:19:15

Because this could be the killer part of my dish.

0:19:150:19:17

All right, so that's that, really. Take the pigeons out, wonderful.

0:19:170:19:21

And while they're in those bags there, those sous-vide bags, it will keep warm and fine.

0:19:210:19:25

So, I need that to settle for five or ten minutes, which just

0:19:250:19:27

gives us nice enough time now to get our garnish ready.

0:19:270:19:30

A knob of butter in here,

0:19:300:19:32

and I've got my lovely cultivated mushrooms here.

0:19:320:19:35

So, I'm just going to bob those in.

0:19:350:19:38

-Raw meat board.

-Raw meat board!

0:19:380:19:39

-Cooked meat board.

-Cooked meat board.

0:19:390:19:41

-Wood pigeon, shall we get that?

-Yeah.

-I like it here, Nigel.

0:19:410:19:45

-You like it?

-It is nice. It's comfortable, yeah.

-Isn't it cosy?

0:19:450:19:48

I'm going to season those mushies up a bit and I'm going to pop them into there.

0:19:480:19:54

Just put a little bit of that clarified butter in there.

0:19:540:19:57

And I've got these little roast potatoes.

0:19:570:19:59

I've just done them with a melon baller and, like a roast potato that you do for home,

0:19:590:20:05

bob it in some boiling water, bring it up to boil, boil it for a couple of minutes,

0:20:050:20:09

get the water off and then shake them.

0:20:090:20:11

Stick those in there and I've got a little bit of duck fat here,

0:20:110:20:14

because I like a bit of duck fat or goose fat on my roasties.

0:20:140:20:18

So, bob those on. I'll take these off the bone.

0:20:180:20:21

-All we do is go straight down.

-Yeah.

0:20:210:20:23

-OK? And then pull away from the top there.

-Yeah.

0:20:230:20:26

And then just cut down.

0:20:260:20:29

Turn it around. Almost just prise it away because it's like butter.

0:20:290:20:33

-Yes.

-Absolutely like butter. OK, and whip those off.

-Beautiful.

0:20:330:20:37

Oh, that's lovely that, Chef.

0:20:370:20:39

And then I just pop that in that. Just keep them nice and warm.

0:20:390:20:42

I'll get my roasties out now.

0:20:420:20:44

-Wow, look at those.

-Look at those little beauties!

0:20:470:20:50

Ah, you're going to get that one!

0:20:530:20:55

I have made up my sauce beforehand, but what I would do is use the pigeon carcasses.

0:20:550:20:59

Just wash them with a little bit of chicken stock and then put the same celeriac puree into it.

0:20:590:21:05

I'm going to pop my pigeon sauce at the back here, so it's...

0:21:050:21:09

You know, just gets nice and warm.

0:21:090:21:11

-Right, I'm going to put the pigeon breast now...

-Beautiful.

0:21:110:21:15

..into that little bit of butter in there.

0:21:150:21:18

And I just want to let them just warm gently there.

0:21:220:21:26

I don't want them swimming in butter.

0:21:260:21:28

And I'm just going to now just put a little bit of seasoning on there.

0:21:280:21:32

I'll whack these in now. That's our deep-fried leggies.

0:21:320:21:36

So, that's the pigeon leg meat, the pigeon liver, chicken liver,

0:21:360:21:40

in a bowl, wrapped in brick pastry that's shredded. It sounds fab.

0:21:400:21:43

The plates are probably ready now.

0:21:430:21:45

Let's shift that board out of the way and that knife can go, as well.

0:21:450:21:48

I've got my pan.

0:21:480:21:51

A little bit of spinach in there

0:21:510:21:53

and then a little bit of pepper.

0:21:560:21:57

And then, did you notice I'm using what we call a marise, these are the plastic spatulas?

0:21:570:22:02

Now, you just keep the pan down.

0:22:020:22:05

Don't touch the pan and just move the spinach is the key thing.

0:22:050:22:08

It keeps it... I don't want to... That's beautiful.

0:22:080:22:11

I want to keep it and it keeps it warm there so it gives me an opportunity to plate things up now.

0:22:110:22:15

You know, if I pop my potatoes...

0:22:150:22:17

That's our vegetables on there.

0:22:220:22:25

And pop the mushrooms...

0:22:250:22:29

And I've got my little bit of the celeriac puree.

0:22:290:22:32

Hazelnuts just to go on there.

0:22:350:22:37

So, here comes, you know, your colour change.

0:22:400:22:43

There's juices here.

0:22:560:22:58

Right, lovely.

0:23:030:23:06

And you get those colours just running into each other.

0:23:100:23:13

-Look at that. Gorgeous.

-Fantastic, man.

0:23:150:23:17

-Oh!

-Oh, look at that.

0:23:220:23:24

-That is cooked beautifully.

-Oh, that's awesome.

0:23:240:23:26

The boil-in-the-bag gig works amazingly well,

0:23:260:23:30

but then he's finished it off in the pan with the butter.

0:23:300:23:33

Oh, hey, man.

0:23:330:23:35

I've got that hazelnut sweet, savoury,

0:23:350:23:38

salt with the duck breast. It's just awesome.

0:23:380:23:42

What is that like?

0:23:420:23:45

It's different league.

0:23:450:23:46

The textures are unbelievable.

0:23:460:23:49

-That's awesome.

-That is awesome.

-Yeah.

0:23:490:23:51

We're in the poop again, aren't we?

0:23:510:23:54

-We'll do our best.

-We will, we will. We always do, dude, we always do.

0:23:540:23:57

It's all very well what we think but the real judges

0:23:570:24:00

are the locals who will decide who's dish is best

0:24:000:24:03

in a blind tasting coming up.

0:24:030:24:05

Nigel's a tough competitor, so nothing but the best will do.

0:24:050:24:09

We've heard about some fowl that's getting some attention

0:24:090:24:12

from the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Albert Roux.

0:24:120:24:15

Goosnargh ducks are gaining a great reputation,

0:24:150:24:18

so we have to meet Reg Johnson and find out more for ourselves.

0:24:180:24:21

Hello, boys!

0:24:230:24:25

Aw, look at that.

0:24:250:24:27

Day-old ducklings, Kingy.

0:24:270:24:29

-How old are these?

-These are less than a day old.

-Are they?

0:24:290:24:32

These have just hatched, yeah.

0:24:320:24:34

-Where do we put them?

-They go into the nursery shed.

0:24:340:24:37

Right. Come on, we're going into the nursery shed, look.

0:24:370:24:40

-Come on, now.

-These are so healthy, aren't they?

0:24:400:24:44

They're fabulous, man. Off you go, look.

0:24:440:24:46

That's it, lad, just tip them out.

0:24:460:24:48

So, these birds, we're looking to harvest these in eight weeks' time.

0:24:480:24:52

All natural food. They grow at their own pace and in eight weeks they're ready.

0:24:520:24:57

-So, it's all natural?

-All natural foods?

0:24:570:24:59

There's no additives or growth hormones.

0:24:590:25:01

We don't medicate unless they get a bit of a chill.

0:25:010:25:04

-Oh, I love a duck.

-We love a duck.

0:25:040:25:05

Well, you've come to the right place.

0:25:050:25:08

These are the eight-week-old ducks.

0:25:080:25:10

This is the next batch that's going to be harvested.

0:25:100:25:13

-The ducks are ready?

-Yeah.

0:25:130:25:14

We're looking for a five pound duck.

0:25:140:25:16

We want an eight ounce breast, eight, nine ounce leg.

0:25:160:25:19

Reg, what's happening now?

0:25:190:25:21

We do this every day.

0:25:210:25:22

The ducks have got clean bedding every day.

0:25:220:25:25

He's spreading clean bedding all over.

0:25:250:25:27

-Every shed has to be done like this.

-Are they mucky?

0:25:270:25:29

Oh, ducks love being mucky.

0:25:290:25:31

-You see a duck in a pond and it's paddling in muck.

-Yes.

0:25:310:25:34

They naturally play in muck.

0:25:340:25:35

If there's none, he'll create some. It's what ducks do.

0:25:350:25:38

Is the Goosnargh duck a breed, a type?

0:25:380:25:40

These duck are a selectively bred duck, as all commercial ducks are in the UK and throughout Europe, really.

0:25:400:25:46

These are an Aylesbury-Peking cross. They are selectively bred to...

0:25:460:25:50

-Big breasts.

-That's what you're looking for, lads.

0:25:500:25:53

-He's finished. Shall we have a look?

-Yes, please.

0:25:530:25:56

-We've two type of duck. These are a wheat-fed duck.

-Yes.

0:25:560:25:59

And we have a maize-fed duck where their diet is predominantly maize.

0:25:590:26:03

-It's a corn-fed. Yeah.

-Right.

0:26:030:26:05

The textures and flavours are quite different.

0:26:050:26:07

-These are the corn-fed ducks.

-Oh.

0:26:100:26:12

You can see the beaks and legs are different.

0:26:120:26:14

These have got a different texture.

0:26:140:26:17

The maize comes through and it keeps...it keeps the breast moist.

0:26:170:26:22

-This is for us, mate.

-It is. Corn-fed.

0:26:220:26:24

I think the best thing now, we'll go back and see some of the glamorous girls

0:26:240:26:28

and get some whites on you instead of this racing gear

0:26:280:26:31

and you can go and cut your bits up and select your own perfect bit.

0:26:310:26:35

Here we've got the corn-fed. Two nice, meaty corn-fed.

0:26:380:26:41

-There's a difference in colour.

-Absolutely.

0:26:410:26:43

That's a big-ish duck, a five and a half pound duck, about two and a half kilos.

0:26:430:26:47

-A belter.

-So, we take the legs off first, just trim round, but you don't cut.

0:26:470:26:52

Break the joint. Break the joint.

0:26:520:26:54

-It's easy, just follow the bone round.

-Yes.

-There's no effort.

0:26:540:26:58

Keep your finger out of the way. Just follow it round.

0:26:580:27:00

You're following round, just feel it round the bone. Twist...

0:27:000:27:04

Until you get a shaped portion.

0:27:040:27:06

And the breast bone. Gently ease into it, just ease back, follow it back.

0:27:060:27:10

Same on the other side. Ever so gently.

0:27:100:27:13

Follow back.

0:27:130:27:15

Down. Now we just quietly move it away from the breastbone.

0:27:150:27:19

Push it away and just gently follow it round.

0:27:190:27:22

No rush, no rush.

0:27:220:27:24

-Gently follow it round.

-It's clean as a whistle, that.

0:27:260:27:30

The other side, as well. Take it away.

0:27:300:27:32

Take it round. Take the wishbone.

0:27:350:27:39

Just ease it round. Just crack the wishbone away from the body.

0:27:390:27:43

That's then attached to the wing, then you're steering round it.

0:27:430:27:46

Again, round the end.

0:27:460:27:49

Get the wishbone out. Then you turn it over.

0:27:490:27:52

-Just trim them up. There's the two breast portions.

-Lovely.

0:27:520:27:56

And we've got our leg portions.

0:27:560:27:57

This looks great. I'm excited. Any chance of eating some?

0:27:570:28:00

-We've got a kitchen full of the stuff.

-Brilliant.

0:28:000:28:03

-Do you want to have a nibble?

-Oh, yes.

0:28:030:28:05

Oh, listen, you know, it's driving me quackers, this!

0:28:050:28:09

-Proof of the pudding, boys, here we are.

-Oh, thanks, Reg.

0:28:090:28:12

Oh, I knew you'd go for that crispy bit.

0:28:120:28:14

-Have a look at that bit.

-That is awesome.

0:28:140:28:17

Oh, look at that, man.

0:28:170:28:21

-Bone, clean out.

-It tastes so ducky.

0:28:210:28:23

All I can say is, Nigel's a genius, but his pigeon doesn't stand a chance.

0:28:230:28:27

Wipe the floor with it.

0:28:270:28:29

Reg's duck is going to taste brilliant.

0:28:310:28:33

Let's serve it with some of the black peas we saw in the market.

0:28:330:28:36

And I can remember some other great local specialities I used to enjoy as a boy. It's time to get digging.

0:28:360:28:41

Colin Nelson has farmed potatoes all his life,

0:28:410:28:44

but believes that to get the freshest taste

0:28:440:28:47

his spuds must go from plough to plate in less than 12 hours.

0:28:470:28:50

And, guess what?

0:28:500:28:52

We're about to get our hands on the very first of the season.

0:28:520:28:55

-Hello, there!

-Dave.

-Great to meet you. How are you doing?

-Spring has sprung!

0:28:550:28:59

The first new potatoes of the year!

0:28:590:29:01

-What is a new potato?

-A new potato is something you've harvested straight from the field,

0:29:030:29:08

skins are not set, just the right size.

0:29:080:29:11

I always think if you have to put a knife in a new potato it's too big.

0:29:110:29:15

Get your fork underneath and dig down.

0:29:150:29:18

Oh! Look at those!

0:29:180:29:20

And then pop them in your box and you've got them.

0:29:200:29:23

Oh, yes! It's firm, it's fresh, it's straight from the soil and it's going on the plate.

0:29:230:29:28

When I was a little boy my dad would come back with a bag of these.

0:29:280:29:31

He would say, "The Ormskirk potatoes are in, son."

0:29:310:29:34

And we'd have this big feed of new potatoes just with a bit of butter, and I can remember the taste.

0:29:340:29:40

I can remember that smell, and peeling them, or not, you just wash them, and look...

0:29:400:29:44

You should be able to take the skins off washing them.

0:29:440:29:47

Look at that, Dave. It's like digging for diamonds.

0:29:470:29:49

It's wonderful. What's so special about these potatoes though, Colin?

0:29:490:29:54

The first key thing is to get the right variety and I always use Ulster Chieftain.

0:29:540:29:58

And then get a bit of good farmyard manure and that gives them the taste.

0:29:580:30:03

-And then get them early, nice and tender, and you've got a lovely, lovely meal.

-Oh, look at this.

0:30:030:30:08

I always think it turns a good cook into a brilliant cook.

0:30:080:30:13

Well, if you've got good stuff you can't go wrong.

0:30:130:30:16

All I can say is, in our panel of tasters

0:30:180:30:21

you'll be having these potatoes within six hours of being dug.

0:30:210:30:25

Now, you can't get any better than that.

0:30:250:30:27

When you get enough in your box we'll take them to my mother, who has been cooking them

0:30:270:30:32

for 60-odd years, and she'll show you how to cook them really well.

0:30:320:30:36

-Shall we put them in?

-Oh, aye, go on.

0:30:380:30:42

The magic moment.

0:30:490:30:50

Stand up for the potato.

0:30:530:30:55

-Yes, the Ormskirk new potato.

-Oh, definitely.

-The first ones.

0:30:550:31:00

-The first earlies, yes.

-Yeah.

0:31:000:31:02

And we'll try them with some butter on.

0:31:040:31:07

-Definitely.

-It's kind of waxy

0:31:070:31:10

and when you split into it that aroma hits you.

0:31:100:31:14

Oh!

0:31:170:31:19

-Wonderful.

-So, Anne, do you think it makes a difference eating the potatoes straight from the ground?

0:31:190:31:25

Straight out of the Lancashire soil, it does.

0:31:250:31:27

They don't get dried up then, you see, when they're fresh.

0:31:270:31:30

They're so tender when you first get them up.

0:31:300:31:34

So, Colin, who gets these fabulous potatoes?

0:31:340:31:37

-Do you sell them around the country, or...

-Just in the local area. We keep them to ourselves.

0:31:370:31:42

They're our local pearls, they are, our golden pearls.

0:31:420:31:47

Keep them to ourselves.

0:31:470:31:48

I think there might be a few more people know about them now.

0:31:480:31:53

Sorry, Colin!

0:31:530:31:54

We've risen to the challenge. We're doing three ways with Goosnargh duck.

0:31:580:32:02

And then we're going to serve them...

0:32:020:32:04

We dug today Ormskirk potatoes.

0:32:040:32:06

And just lying provocatively on a bed of Lancashire black peas.

0:32:060:32:11

But will the local diners think our dish is good enough to beat Nigel's in the blind tasting?

0:32:110:32:16

-Black peas!

-Could you pass them, Nigel?

0:32:160:32:18

Now, they may look like pet food because they could also be known as pigeon peas.

0:32:180:32:22

Because they're used to feed your pigeons.

0:32:220:32:25

The first thing we're going to do though, Nigel, is we're going to show the good people at home

0:32:250:32:30

-how simple a confit duck can be.

-Yeah.

0:32:300:32:32

This is the leg and the thigh. Take three. Now, it needs to be salted.

0:32:320:32:37

-And then we add some pepper on both sides.

-A bit of sliced shallot goes on.

-Yeah.

0:32:370:32:40

And then there's some sliced garlic.

0:32:400:32:43

-About two, three cloves.

-About half a dozen sprigs of fresh thyme.

0:32:430:32:47

See that? That's a star anise

0:32:470:32:50

and it smells slightly aniseedy.

0:32:500:32:52

-It does, doesn't it, yeah?

-Lastly...

0:32:520:32:54

-A bay leaf.

-Or two.

0:32:540:32:56

Cover that and leave that in the fridge for 24 hours.

0:32:560:33:00

After 24 hours it looks like this.

0:33:000:33:04

Now, what we need to do is to brush the solids off.

0:33:040:33:08

Here I've got a pan of melted duck fat

0:33:110:33:14

and you plunge the newly brushed duck portion in the duck fat as a preserving method.

0:33:140:33:20

You know, you could confit pork, confit salmon, and...

0:33:200:33:23

because once the duck's been confited, cooked in the duck fat,

0:33:230:33:26

you can leave it to set in the duck fat and it'll last for months in the fridge.

0:33:260:33:30

-Put that in an oven, about 140, and you leave it to rumble away for about three hours.

-Exactly, yeah.

0:33:300:33:36

This is what it looks like after three hours.

0:33:360:33:40

We put them in the oven for about 20 minutes to finish off, you see.

0:33:400:33:43

-And that will crisp up and any fat that's in there will kind of roast out.

-Yeah.

0:33:430:33:48

The pigeon peas.

0:33:480:33:50

That's the pea. You soak the pea, just like making your marrow fats.

0:33:500:33:54

-Yes, he's not wrong.

-You can put a bit of bicarb in if you want.

0:33:540:33:57

Because all bicarb does is accelerate the process,

0:33:570:34:00

but the longer you leave them in nice water the better it is.

0:34:000:34:03

Now, that you stick into a saucepan and boil for about three hours.

0:34:030:34:06

-Right, yeah.

-We need to kind of rinse them off.

-Well, just strain them.

0:34:060:34:10

All these need to do is to be warmed through with a jumbo knob of butter, a couple of bay leaves.

0:34:100:34:16

-How are they cooking, Si, how are they cooking?

-Some salt.

0:34:160:34:19

-Right.

-We'll just let that sweat down now for... Well, as long as we like.

0:34:190:34:23

As long as we like, really. Look at that.

0:34:230:34:26

So, what's next, mate?

0:34:260:34:27

Nigel, Nigel, Nigel, the most perfect potato you have ever seen.

0:34:270:34:33

-You haven't got...

-Ormskirk.

-Ormskirk!

-New potatoes, dug this morning.

0:34:330:34:37

-You got the first Ormskirks before me.

-Yeah.

0:34:370:34:41

-I can't believe it.

-It's true.

0:34:410:34:44

-Now, that's a new potato.

-It is.

0:34:440:34:46

Boil them for 20 minutes, taste of paradise.

0:34:460:34:49

It's like a savoury duck.

0:34:490:34:51

It's a Lancashire thing. We're going to do cocktail ones, but we're going to do a duck savoury duck.

0:34:510:34:56

-We hope it works!

-A duck savoury duck!

0:34:560:34:58

These are lardons, which are pieces of streaky bacon cut into strips.

0:34:580:35:02

-Just fry those off until they've just gone golden.

-Yeah.

0:35:020:35:05

We're going to put these gorgeous lovelies in the pan, as well.

0:35:050:35:08

Very quickly, don't cook them.

0:35:080:35:10

Look at this, man. It's gone a lovely golden colour, look.

0:35:100:35:12

-Beautiful.

-To that we're going to add a finely chopped onion.

0:35:120:35:16

We simply want to let them go translucent, soften them.

0:35:160:35:19

So, there's about 200 Gs of livers in here, look.

0:35:190:35:23

We'll get it on the heat and colour them slightly.

0:35:230:35:26

What we're going to do now is we're going to blitz them with various other ingredients.

0:35:260:35:31

They're just starting to colour up now. There we go, look at those.

0:35:310:35:34

-Mr King!

-Oh, Matron!

0:35:340:35:38

We add some breadcrumbs.

0:35:380:35:39

A pinch of sage. Dried herbs for this one.

0:35:390:35:42

A pinch of dried thyme and a grinding of nutmeg.

0:35:420:35:46

-An egg yolk.

-A bit of pepper, as well.

-Oh, aye.

0:35:460:35:48

A bit of salt. And then the egg yolk.

0:35:480:35:50

What we're aiming for, the consistency of this,

0:35:500:35:53

we're aiming for a kind of firm, nice paste.

0:35:530:35:56

-I'm just giving it a quick blast... That's it.

-That's what we want.

0:35:560:36:00

Have you got a blast chiller?

0:36:000:36:02

-Yes.

-Now, this would be great if we put this in the blast chiller for a minute or two to firm it up.

0:36:020:36:07

-Is that chilled down?

-Yeah.

0:36:090:36:11

This is pig caul, also know as pig clingfilm. I'll just cut that.

0:36:110:36:14

This is brilliant.

0:36:140:36:16

Not only will it stop the duck savoury ducks from falling apart, it'll keep them juicy.

0:36:160:36:22

Get a piece about the size of a walnut and start to roll it up.

0:36:220:36:26

There it is, cocktail-sized duck savoury duck.

0:36:260:36:29

-And repeat...

-Several times.

0:36:290:36:30

We're going to do roasted plums to go with the duck breast.

0:36:300:36:34

-Roasted plums, yeah.

-We half and de-stone the plum.

-Yeah.

0:36:340:36:38

We're going to add some pepper.

0:36:380:36:41

Some sugar in, not too much, about a teaspoon.

0:36:410:36:45

A lovely sprig of thyme underneath those plums.

0:36:450:36:48

-That's it, and they'll go in the oven for about 10 minutes.

-If that.

0:36:480:36:51

That's the savoury duck ducks.

0:36:510:36:53

Reg's duck breasts. The first thing is you should trim them off.

0:36:530:36:56

We need to get these confits in.

0:36:560:36:58

Now, all I'm doing is prepping Dave up some thyme. Just finely chopping it.

0:37:000:37:05

I'm criss-crossing the duck.

0:37:050:37:06

This is going to enable the heat to penetrate to the meat

0:37:060:37:09

and also to crisp the skin up.

0:37:090:37:11

Lots of pepper. I'm going to use some frozen peas, a pat of butter, and warm them through.

0:37:110:37:16

-I'm just going to season them slightly.

-The pan's nice and hot.

0:37:160:37:19

The duck breasts go in skin side down. Fatty, fatty, sizzle, sizzle.

0:37:190:37:24

-Look at that!

-Oh!

0:37:240:37:26

There you go.

0:37:260:37:29

And just sear till golden.

0:37:290:37:31

Absolutely beautiful.

0:37:310:37:33

That's done.

0:37:330:37:35

Now, we pop that in the oven for about eight minutes.

0:37:350:37:38

We're going to put the plums in and the duck savoury ducks.

0:37:380:37:41

Now, we've got to keep an eye on these. They won't take long.

0:37:410:37:44

-The plums will need turning after about four minutes.

-Fantastic.

0:37:440:37:48

We just want to crush these potatoes a little bit just so that the butter

0:37:480:37:52

and the mint and the seasoning will just leach in.

0:37:520:37:54

-The plate's under the grill.

-Thank you very much.

0:37:540:37:57

Butter.

0:37:570:37:59

White pepper with potatoes.

0:37:590:38:01

-Are you going to let me have a taste?

-Yes.

0:38:010:38:03

-These are the first of the Ormskirks.

-Yeah!

0:38:030:38:06

Look at that, with a bit of salt and butter in.

0:38:060:38:08

-They're awesome.

-They're heavenly, those. Are those plums ready?

0:38:100:38:14

-Not yet they're not.

-Balsamic vinegar, that's what we need.

0:38:140:38:17

-Yes.

-That's good, the balsamic. I like that, the balsamic on them.

0:38:180:38:22

-Pigeon peas, they're done.

-Lovely.

-They can rest.

0:38:220:38:25

Get the duck savoury ducks out?

0:38:250:38:27

Yeah.

0:38:270:38:28

Right, just leave those to rest, now.

0:38:310:38:33

-Lovely.

-Shall we turn the plums?

0:38:330:38:35

-We'll have to go for it.

-I've turned them once already.

-Have you?

0:38:350:38:39

Yeah. They're hard.

0:38:390:38:41

Do you have a little bit of syrup? Have you got any?

0:38:410:38:44

-I've got rhubarb syrup.

-Great. Back in the oven?

-Yeah.

0:38:440:38:47

-Dave, I'm going to flash the plates again for you.

-Ooh! Thanks, Nige!

0:38:470:38:52

There's nothing like a flash of your plates!

0:38:520:38:54

Whilst you're flashing, could you find some Madeira?

0:38:540:38:57

Madeira? So, you want some syrup and you want some Madeira now?

0:38:570:39:01

-Well, you know.

-Come on, lads.

0:39:010:39:02

There's nowt the matter with that. Let's take them plums out.

0:39:020:39:05

Plums out.

0:39:050:39:07

Right.

0:39:070:39:09

And, guess what, we've found you some Madeira to go with your rhubarb syrup.

0:39:090:39:13

Thank you very, very, very much.

0:39:130:39:15

What would we do without you?

0:39:150:39:17

-What would you do?

-I'm going to start serving up.

0:39:170:39:19

There we have it, three ways with Goosnargh duck.

0:39:450:39:48

Duck, duck.

0:39:480:39:50

Served with, dug today, on the plate, new potatoes from Ormskirk.

0:39:500:39:55

Come on, the boys! All finished off with Lancashire pigeon peas.

0:39:550:39:59

I'll have a little bit of duck confit and black peas.

0:39:590:40:04

Really nice duck confit that. And the duck duck.

0:40:060:40:09

The duck savoury duck. The texture's good.

0:40:090:40:12

-To be honest, you can't go wrong with duck breast, Goosnargh breast.

-You just cannot.

0:40:150:40:20

-It's just the best, isn't it?

-It is.

0:40:200:40:21

Just taste those potatoes, Nigel.

0:40:240:40:26

I like the savoury duck. It's something a bit different.

0:40:280:40:31

The only thing I would say is it's a big portion, but, I mean, I'd probably eat it,

0:40:310:40:36

-but it is a big portion. For me it's a lovely dish.

-Thank you.

0:40:360:40:41

So, here's ducking to you, chaps.

0:40:410:40:44

Thanks very much, Nigel.

0:40:440:40:46

It's crunch time.

0:40:460:40:47

The diners here will taste both dishes,

0:40:470:40:49

but with no idea who cooked which.

0:40:490:40:51

First up is Nigel's wood pigeon breast, leg parcel with spinach, hazelnuts and a celeriac sauce.

0:40:510:40:58

It's difficult to get wood pigeon right. Often it's tough if it's overdone. That was perfect.

0:40:580:41:03

I was surprised how light and flavourable it was.

0:41:030:41:05

The mushrooms are very, very nice and creamy.

0:41:050:41:08

The puree, I've never had anything like that before.

0:41:080:41:12

The parsley had a nice salty flavour that complemented the wood pigeon.

0:41:120:41:16

The hazelnuts were a surprise. They were quite nice, a little bit sweet.

0:41:160:41:20

I wouldn't have said wood pigeon particularly was something that I would associate with this area.

0:41:200:41:26

Traditionally, not quite maybe Lancashire, but maybe nouveau Lancashire, you know?

0:41:260:41:31

The top end of the market. As a Lancastrian I welcome it.

0:41:310:41:35

That seemed to be popular. How will our dish go down?

0:41:350:41:37

Let's see.

0:41:370:41:40

-Oh, that is nice.

-Gorgeous.

0:41:400:41:43

-Very flavoursome.

-The confit of duck on the bone I thought was absolutely delicious.

0:41:430:41:47

It just fell from the bone.

0:41:470:41:49

The savoury duck and the plum I thought were lovely. And the black peas, very, very tasty.

0:41:490:41:54

The highest point for me was the duck breast and the black peas.

0:41:540:41:57

-I love black peas.

-As far as presentation was concerned, it was a bit lacking in the two veg.

0:41:570:42:02

You know, we're meat and two veg people up here.

0:42:020:42:05

There is a strong Lancashire tradition with black peas

0:42:050:42:07

and, for me, that said more about Lancashire on a plate

0:42:070:42:10

because that had one ingredient that you could identify as very strongly Lancastrian,

0:42:100:42:15

whereas the other meal didn't.

0:42:150:42:17

APPLAUSE

0:42:170:42:19

Well, thank you so much for coming.

0:42:190:42:22

-I mean, we've had a ball.

-It's been great.

0:42:220:42:24

Aye, it has been a good laugh, hasn't it?

0:42:240:42:26

It's been messy, but good fun.

0:42:260:42:28

We had a great time in Lancashire. We've kind of explored everything, from Blackburn Cathedral...

0:42:280:42:34

We've been everywhere.

0:42:340:42:36

Blackburn Cathedral! When did you go there?

0:42:360:42:38

We were cooking hotpot outside it.

0:42:380:42:40

It was brilliant. It's just been fun.

0:42:400:42:43

The food's great, the people are great.

0:42:430:42:45

OK, now, thank you for your patience.

0:42:450:42:48

Now what you're voting for is the taste, the flavour, of course,

0:42:480:42:52

but also the representation of Lancashire.

0:42:520:42:55

Can we have a clear show of hands, please, for the pigeon?

0:42:550:42:58

One, two, three, four for the pigeon.

0:42:580:43:01

Could we have a clear show of hands, please, for the duck?

0:43:010:43:05

So, that's one, two, three, four, five for the duck.

0:43:050:43:08

OK. The pigeon was Nigel's and the duck was ours.

0:43:080:43:14

APPLAUSE

0:43:140:43:16

Hey! Hey! Hey!

0:43:160:43:18

Sorry. Keep your dignity!

0:43:180:43:22

'That was a very close call, but the local ingredients,

0:43:220:43:24

'especially the black peas, swung it for us, Dave, I reckon.'

0:43:240:43:27

'You're right, Kingy, but isn't Nigel a star?

0:43:270:43:30

'It was a real privilege to cook alongside him in this brilliant county. We'll be back!'

0:43:300:43:34

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:500:43:53

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:530:43:56

Si King and Dave Myers explore Lancashire, where they cook a traditional county favourite at Blackburn Cathedral. They dig up the first crop of Ormskirk new potatoes and source some of the finest ducks in the north west. Finally, they face a cook-off against Michelin-starred chef Nigel Haworth. Restaurant diners decide who has created the best taste of Lancashire in a blind tasting.


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