Cheshire The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Cheshire

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We're the Hairy Bikers! We're on the road to find regional recipes.

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We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

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-Come on!

-Wa-hey!

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We're here to find the true taste of Cheshire.

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We couldn't get the bikes up here, could we? Need a trailer!

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THEY LAUGH

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-This is Cheshire.

-It is.

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We're looking over the edge of the Cheshire Plains.

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It's on the border with Wales, on the border with Lancashire.

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Apart from footballer's wives, posh houses and cheese, I don't know anything about it.

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It's a mystery, dude.

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Do you know what I think we might find? I think it might be an eclectic mix here. I think it might be.

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It might be fur coat and no knickers though.

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-Let's eat Cheshire.

-Let's go.

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'On our quest to define the true flavours of Cheshire, we serve up

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'an ancient recipe for a hearty soup, using the county's favourite export.

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'It's dark and very, very smoky, when we learn the secrets of a traditional smoke house.

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'And down on the farm, Carol Bailey introduces us to a Si lookie-likie,

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'and a flavoursome alternative to lamb, which we think is a real winner.

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'And representing Cheshire in the cook off is David Mooney.

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'Will we be able to beat him using the county's finest ingredients?'

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'Chester is one of the UK's earliest towns.

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'The Romans settled here in 70AD

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'and you can still feel their presence today.'

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-Look, Si, the old Roman city walls.

-They're lovely, aren't they?

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The whole city's living history.

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'We're here to find out what Cheshire has to offer us on a plate.

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'I can't wait to see what local food's up for grabs.'

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-Chester, the county town of Cheshire.

-It's nice, isn't it?!

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-Shall we see if there's 'owt to eat?

-Ooh!

-I'm starving.

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-Chester cake.

-Let's have some.

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That's lovely.

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It's a blend of what you might have left at the end of the day.

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Maybe a teacake, or some fruitcake.

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Nice and moist, isn't it?

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What's the essential ingredient of Cheshire food?

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-Pastry.

-Pastry?

-Pastry, I'd say.

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-Ah, really?

-Or gravy. Pie and gravy.

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Pie and gravy, that's a good start.

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Pasties.

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-Hello, guys.

-Ooh.

-Our local tasting plate.

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The main event is this potted Cheshire cheese,

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with sherry, butter and spices. You've got a nice,

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simple, very local roast beef from a farm around the corner.

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Our sausage rolls are made with Chester sausage from a butcher next door but one.

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That's lovely!

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HE SPEAKS LATIN

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-That's a Roman. Are you not a bit cold, son?

-Minus testicalus.

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What's the iconic dish of Cheshire?

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We found remains in the amphitheatre of barbecue beef ribs,

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which were eaten and dropped between the seats.

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A wonderful, old-fashioned sweet shop.

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-Let's get in there. Nice to see you.

-Nice to see you, all right?

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-What a great shop.

-A room full of memories.

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-Fabulous.

-Is there a sweetie, though, that's pure Cheshire?

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-Cheshire mix.

-Ooh!

-Oh!

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You have Yorkshire mix, so we thought, we're in Cheshire, why not a Cheshire mix?

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So, it's the top ten boiled sweets that the people in Cheshire buy.

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This, to me, symbolises Cheshire, it's a mix!

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'So, we know what satisfies Cheshire's sweet tooth,

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'but that doesn't help us in our search for a traditional dish.

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'We still don't know what food represents Cheshire so we decided to ask the authorities.'

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-Officer.

-Morning, officer. What's Cheshire famous for?

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-Cheshire cheese?

-Cheshire cheese?

-Yeah.

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-Madam.

-Yes?

-What's the iconic dish of Cheshire?

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I would have said cheese.

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I'd go for cheese really. Cheshire cheese.

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-How would you cook your cheese?

-On toast.

-Cheese on toast?

-Yeah.

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-Now then, madness, it seems to me that the reoccurring theme is cheese.

-Shall we go in? Should we?

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-Hello.

-Oh, yes!

-Hello.

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Cor! It smells fantastic.

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Smell? What smell?

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-I can't smell anything!

-What is it about Cheshire cheese, Carol?

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It's the pastures the cows graze on, they're quite salty,

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the Cheshire Plains, so it makes it unique, and it's the oldest cheese on record.

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-The oldest cheese on record?

-Yes, Cheshire cheese.

-Oh, it's heaven.

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We've also got some cheeses made in Cheshire but to an Italian recipe.

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-Right.

-That's the Federia.

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And you can taste it is similar to a Gruyere.

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Smell that!

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Have you got a smell of it?

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-Why not?! It's lovely.

-Ooh, that's lovely.

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The Cheshire cheese is super in soup as well.

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-Really?

-Yes. I used to have a restaurant and I used to do a leek and Cheshire cheese soup.

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-Nice. Sounds good, that.

-It does.

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-So you'll have to make that.

-Ooh, yeah.

-That's an education.

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-Cheshire cheese, you just think, it's Cheshire.

-There's a lot of big cheeses in Cheshire.

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-There is!

-There are a lot of big cheeses!

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-I'm the big cheese!

-You are! Hey!

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'So, what are we cooking with?

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'There's no choice - it has to be Cheshire cheese from the most famous salty Cheshire Plains,

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'and Carol's super duper soup sounds perfect.

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'That's got to be some seriously delicious grass, which helps make some seriously tasty produce.

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'We're going to Heler Cheese to meet Mike Heler.

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'They've been making the stuff here for over 50 years.'

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He sounds like another big cheese to me!

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Right, to get round the cheese dairy,

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we need to tog you up in all this gear, because if I don't, I'll get in trouble.

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You're not allowed to wear a watch.

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And I need you to put a white coat on,

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a snood on your beard, a hair net and a hat.

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And we've got to take your boots off as well.

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-Right. We're off.

-Lead the way.

-Onward.

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My father started making Cheshire cheese, cylindrical cheese, in 1957.

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Even though it's on a big scale now,

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-it's a single herd cheese you produce, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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The cheese is from our own cows, single herd.

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We've got full control, right from the cow to the product on the shelf.

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-It's like a premier cru wine.

-Exactly.

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How well do you look after your cows?

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Our cows get spoilt.

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Look at that! Look at that!

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Look at that! Left a bit, left.

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-Oh.

-Wouldn't it be lush to have one of those at home?

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I could soon fix one up for you.

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My God.

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Will you stop doing that with your hips?!

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-Oh...

-COW MOOS

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-Oh, what!

-Wow!

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THEY LAUGH

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There's 4,000 litres of milk in this vat.

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You've got this lovely milk, what happens next, Mike?

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This morning, early on, we pasteurise the milk,

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and then we introduce the rennet.

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That coagulates the milk into a jelly.

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And it's set like a yogurt.

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We're cutting the coagulum,

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which is the curd, and the whey is the liquid that we end up with.

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And eventually, we will cut this and it will end up about the size of your little fingernail.

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In fact, you can have a small taste of it.

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It's very, very creamy. Not sour at all.

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From milk to the best eating quality of the cheese is 12 weeks.

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This will end up as a blue Cheshire.

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We'll now go into our Cheshire dairy, and you can see

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-it on a grand scale.

-Wow, that's a lot of cheese, isn't it?

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-Do you want to taste that?

-Yes, please.

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My granddad used to love it. He used to come in here and take mouthfuls.

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Lovely!

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In about 35 minutes, this will look like that.

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That's a lot of cheese you're producing.

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-We will make 29, 30 tonnes a day.

-Wow!

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Right, well, here we've got the three different types of Cheshire cheese we make.

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We've got white Cheshire cheese,

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blue Cheshire, which is what we're making in the vat today,

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and then coloured Cheshire cheese, so we have red, white and blue.

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This is the white Cheshire cheese.

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Look at that, fantastic.

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Less crumbly.

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Thank you.

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Oh, superb.

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-You like that?

-Yes.

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If we go into the coloured cheese...

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-How old's that one?

-About 12, 14 weeks of age.

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And now, we will taste the blue Cheshire.

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-Oh...

-A lot more creamy.

-Mm.

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'We're going to make a Cheshire cheese soup with the blue and white Cheshires we've tried.

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'Do you think this will be enough?'

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'Our panniers are laden with Cheshire's finest ingredients,

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'and we'd better get a move on.

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'We're off to the local landmark, Chester Zoo.

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'It's home to elephants, monkeys, rhinos and a crowd of animal spotters,

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'who are awaiting a rare sighting of the hairiest bikerus.

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-'What are they?

-It's us. And it's feeding time, so we better get cracking.

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'We're cooking up a real taste of Cheshire, a blue and white Cheshire cheese soup,

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'with a fried Federia cheese sandwich on the side.

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'A truly formidable fromage feast.'

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It's Chester Zoo!

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It's one of the major zoos in the world

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-and it's right in the heart of Cheshire.

-And where are we?

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It's the blinking Jaguar enclosure.

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We've managed to find an old recipe that goes back to 1800.

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It's made with Cheshire cheese, leaks, potatoes, carrots, oatmeal to thicken it and Cheshire cheese.

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We have a white Cheshire cheese.

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A blue Cheshire cheese.

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And this one is called a Federia, which tastes like Gruyere.

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First, take two pots of the finest fresh chicken stock.

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Obviously, if you're a vegetarian, use vegetable stock.

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If you're a vegan, well, just don't bother, really.

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Just stick the carrots in water and suffer!

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Bring that to a boil. Potatoes.

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One, two, three.

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We've got some carrots.

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Madam, could you help me peel a potato so I get ahead of myself?

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There you go, chuck.

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Let the potatoes boil down with that.

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-We should give this lady a round of applause.

-Should we?

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Well done, darling. Well done.

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And we're just going to finely chop two leeks.

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And we'll grate carrots into that soup.

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Where's the lady that does the jaguars?

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Come and say hello to our lovely peeps.

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-You're the reason we're here, aren't you?

-Yes, I am.

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Tell us about jaguars.

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The jaguars here come from South America.

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They live in the rainforest or the savannah.

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What are they like with trimmings, vegetable trimmings?

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-Can we give them...

-We could try, put them on a dish and see what they do.

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I'm just going to season the soup.

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While you're here...

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-Go on, chuck it in.

-Joyce, when does the feeding happen?

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-We're just about to feed them. Do you want to have a look?

-Yeah, the soup's boiling down.

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-Come with us to South America.

-Come and see what you think.

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Oh, yes!

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-Ooh. I wouldn't like to meet one of them on a dark night.

-No.

-No.

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-Oh, absolutely beautiful.

-She's going for your vegetables after all.

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Yes! No, she's into it.

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What on earth is this?!

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'Ooh, er! Let's hope our soup goes down better with the locals.'

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The next step will be to check that the potatoes are cooked, yes.

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-Now, Mr Myers...

-The blue cheese and white cheese.

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We'll start with that much.

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The Cheshire blue cheese is very, very special.

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I think it's got a little taste of Marmite.

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It's so creamy, isn't it?

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It's really, really good.

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I don't know about you but I think it's one of the finds of the trip.

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It is for sure. What we're going to do with the soup, I'm going to give that a nice mash down.

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That's the Cheshire blue cheese. It melts, it's really creamy.

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This, with regular Cheshire, is going to go great in the soup.

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Sling in a handful of oatmeal.

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That's the clever part of this.

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You use oatmeal to thicken it.

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Which is an old-fashioned way of doing it.

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If you sprinkle oatmeal on the top first, before you stir it in,

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it softens the oatmeal.

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Be careful with the seasoning on this because the cheese is salty.

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Do it to taste, guys.

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There's no exact science.

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That's the white Cheshire.

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In that ancient recipe, it said you literally just chuck the cheese in and it melts and goes into the soup.

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-I've got me doubts.

-So have I.

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I feel it could go into a stringy mess.

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But they reckon that the Cheshire cheese,

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because it melts down beautifully, as you found with your cheese on toast,

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it's going to be banging brilliant.

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Oh, it's taken it.

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Right, let's have a taste of that.

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More on the blue.

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This is lovely, isn't it?

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-That's great. More salt.

-Lots more salt. Lots more cheese.

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Cheese! Do you want to finish this, mate, and I'll do the sandwich?

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Good idea.

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I'll stir in and crack on.

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-When we thought of doing this soup, we wanted an accompaniment.

-We did.

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I remember something my mother used to make when I was a little boy.

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She used to make me fried cheese sandwiches.

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She was probably trying to kill me! We thought, to be super indulgent,

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we'd use the Federia, which is like Gruyere,

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and make fried Federia sandwiches to go with the Cheshire cheese soup.

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It's like if Elvis Presley had ever played Cheshire,

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this is what he would have eaten.

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"I'd like some of the Cheshire cheese soup,

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"I'd like 14,000 calories a bowl,

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"all surrounded by a fried cheese sandwich."

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Top tip, when you're frying bread or making croutons, if you're down south, put butter...

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LAUGHTER

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Put butter with your olive oil because the butter will make the bread go golden.

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-Take two slices of finest Cheshire bloomer.

-Do you know something?

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That's ready.

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And I'm excited.

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Because I've tasted it and you haven't.

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Just make the cheese sandwiches.

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I'm going to cut the crusts off because it's Cheshire.

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I don't think I've stirred a soup for so long, ever.

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I don't want these beauties burnt.

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Yes, perfect.

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I thank you, Pierre.

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The cheese is starting to melt down!

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Some recipes we do and you know people are going to cook at home,

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I think people will cook the fried cheese sandwiches at home.

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If actually you were a paramedic, you'd be all right. You take the ambulance home now.

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You go have your tea, get the paddles on standby.

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It's all right, that.

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Do eat entirely at your own risk.

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Little rings of leek.

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-Nice little...watercress.

-Lovely.

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And two jaunty cheese sandwiches, fried on the side. Look at that.

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Beautiful.

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Cheshire cheese soup and fried Cheshire cheese sandwiches.

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A taste of Cheshire.

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Top two for the top two jaguar keepers.

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-Thank you very much.

-Thank you.

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Thank you for having us.

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You'll share? Have that one. I hope you enjoy it.

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The cheese has just gone a bit crispy. This is heaven.

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-What do you think?

-Excellent.

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I wouldn't have thought of putting so much cheese into a soup.

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-It's worked really well.

-You can taste the calories.

-Yeah!

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It's nice.

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It's heaven as it goes down.

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-Feels like it's doing good.

-Feel happy.

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It's really nice.

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'Our Cheshire cheese soup and fried cheese sandwiches went down a storm with our captive audience at the zoo.

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'But a bigger challenge is just around the corner.

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'As always we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

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'using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

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It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Cheshire.

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Our opponent today is David Mooney,

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head chef of the Belle Epoque in Knutsford.

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Loved by local residents and footballers alike, David prides himself on modern British cuisine,

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that never compromises on flavour.

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Our menu consists of things that, first and foremost, taste fantastic.

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Our clientele are all very knowledgeable about food.

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They know what's good and what's not good.

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That's what keeps us on our toes.

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I went off as a very young man to work for Raymond Blanc,

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which was an eye opener, to say the least.

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It was the hardest I've ever worked. Unbelievable.

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I was in France for two years and learned that passion just for food,

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whether it's a loaf of bread, an orange or a fantastic piece of game.

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When you've worked away, I think you realise how utterly brilliant your own neck of the woods is.

0:18:080:18:14

Cheshire is just fantastic. We've got everything here.

0:18:140:18:18

Pete Mosley should be...

0:18:180:18:19

He better be digging potatoes for me now. He's two, two and a half miles.

0:18:190:18:23

Our potatoes are out of the ground and in the kitchen within hours.

0:18:230:18:28

A guy phoned me this morning, he had two wheelbarrows full of apples, could I use them? Could I ever.

0:18:280:18:33

We all try to source as near to our back door as we possibly can.

0:18:330:18:37

At the end of the day, it's all about good products.

0:18:370:18:40

You can't make chicken soup out of chicken poop.

0:18:400:18:42

To take on the bikers,

0:18:420:18:44

my taste of Cheshire is wild boar,

0:18:440:18:47

preserved plums and pommes dauphinoise.

0:18:470:18:50

Just brilliant.

0:18:500:18:52

We've heard what he's about, now it's time to meet the man for ourselves. This is Knutsford.

0:18:580:19:03

We're looking for the beautiful era.

0:19:030:19:05

La Belle Epoque!

0:19:050:19:07

-Whay!

-Ho-ho-ho!

-No, Belle Epoque,

0:19:070:19:10

not belly pork!

0:19:100:19:11

-Looks like we're here.

-Pretty fancy, eh?

0:19:110:19:14

Yeah, but will his cooking be up to scratch?

0:19:140:19:17

-So, David Mooney...

-Sir.

0:19:170:19:20

..what are you doing?

0:19:200:19:22

Beautiful Arley wild boar,

0:19:220:19:24

a little bit of wild boar liver,

0:19:240:19:26

and then pommes dauphinoise organic spinach,

0:19:260:19:30

with a red wine jus, with a little of those preserved plums in.

0:19:300:19:34

-Shall we get cracking?

-Go on, chef.

-We have got this fantastic tenderloin of wild boar.

0:19:340:19:39

-Absolutely horrible animal, fantastic meat.

-Well hung.

0:19:390:19:42

I'm going to take the sinew off here. Just a bit there.

0:19:420:19:48

Trim that off and cut that in half.

0:19:480:19:50

That is ready for the pan now.

0:19:500:19:52

-Oh, wow.

-Thinly slice... Are you listening?

0:19:520:19:55

-BOTH: Yes!

-You could learn here.

0:19:550:19:56

I'm waiting for your fingers. If you had a food processor,

0:19:560:20:00

put your potatoes there and woof, they're there. It's the way forward.

0:20:000:20:03

It's the future.

0:20:030:20:05

You know, everything modern isn't best, you know?

0:20:050:20:08

We layer those round like that. Very important this.

0:20:080:20:11

Salt and pepper every layer

0:20:110:20:14

and throw in some really finely chopped garlic,

0:20:140:20:16

and then a bit of this strong mature Cheddar.

0:20:160:20:20

Then start on the potatoes again, by hand.

0:20:200:20:24

This way you can layer them nicely. If they're in the food processor, you dump straight in.

0:20:240:20:29

I bought a mandolin and that night was sitting there covered in plasters and Steri-Strips.

0:20:290:20:35

It really hurts.

0:20:350:20:36

Season that up as well.

0:20:360:20:39

The important thing is to end up with a layer of cheese on top.

0:20:390:20:42

We want it nice and gratinated on the top. The double cream goes on.

0:20:420:20:47

That goes in till you can just about see it there.

0:20:470:20:50

If you put too much, they come out sloppy and horrible.

0:20:500:20:52

We want nice, tight layers. That's about perfect.

0:20:520:20:56

-How long do you aim to cook that for?

-Three to four hours.

0:20:560:20:59

Till you can put in a knife in, it comes out really tender. That's why we cut them thinly.

0:20:590:21:04

Tin foil on that, 150 degrees, three hours.

0:21:040:21:07

I'm going to foil it up.

0:21:070:21:09

It's thin, cheesy chips.

0:21:090:21:11

Cheesy chips and old pig.

0:21:110:21:13

-Cracked it.

-Let's get the sauce on the go.

0:21:130:21:15

In here, a little tiny bit of oil.

0:21:150:21:17

Medium heat.

0:21:170:21:19

Finely diced carrot.

0:21:190:21:21

For you, boys, I cut them beautiful.

0:21:210:21:23

I always cut them like that. A pinch of celery as well.

0:21:230:21:27

It's a classic brunoise. An onion.

0:21:270:21:30

Then the garlic left over from the dauphinoise. That's the bedrock of our sauce.

0:21:300:21:35

I'm going to sweat those down for a few minutes.

0:21:350:21:37

We need a bit of the liquor off these preserved plums. We get a glut of them in autumn.

0:21:370:21:42

People bring them in.

0:21:420:21:43

We preserve these, stock syrup, little bit of cinnamon, mixed spice, pop a star anise in the bottom.

0:21:430:21:50

A lovely, lovely taste. We put a bit of kirsch in there as well.

0:21:500:21:54

Ah, right, OK.

0:21:540:21:56

A little bit of that in there.

0:21:560:21:58

Then a bit of the old...

0:21:590:22:01

-What's the adage? If you can't drink it, don't cook with it.

-Absolutely.

0:22:010:22:05

That will reduce to a syrup now. The flavours of the marinade in there.

0:22:050:22:09

The sweetness and the boar will work off there.

0:22:090:22:14

I'm going to do roast carrots just as a garnish.

0:22:140:22:17

Smoking hot pan, sizzle, sizzle, sizzle, bang, bang, bang.

0:22:170:22:20

You cannot fry carrots, you loony.

0:22:200:22:21

You loony Mooney.

0:22:210:22:23

The fans need cleaning.

0:22:230:22:25

Don't come in here with your attitude, young man. S and P again.

0:22:250:22:28

I'm going to finish these now.

0:22:280:22:31

A bit of sugar in there. As that cooks it's going to caramelise.

0:22:310:22:34

Nice and tasty, that.

0:22:340:22:37

Sauce, back to the sauce, I made a wild boar stock.

0:22:370:22:41

All I did was roast the bones off for about an hour, get them nice and golden, vegetables in there,

0:22:410:22:46

all the trimmings off these things here, all went in with it.

0:22:460:22:50

Bit of bay, bit of garlic.

0:22:500:22:52

Then we simmered it away for four hours.

0:22:520:22:55

Such simple tastes in there.

0:22:550:22:57

-The sugars bring out the savoury in meat.

-It's all about balance.

0:22:570:23:02

That's all we're trying to do.

0:23:020:23:05

We need a smoking hot pan to seal the outsides.

0:23:050:23:09

Get loads of colour on it. You don't want to put your hand there.

0:23:090:23:12

We just put that in

0:23:120:23:14

very quick. Just season it again.

0:23:140:23:18

-You see that lovely colour on there.

-Yeah. Brilliant.

0:23:180:23:20

That's what we're after. Beautiful.

0:23:200:23:24

That's just spot on.

0:23:240:23:26

All that's going to happen to that is straight in the oven, eight to ten minutes, job done.

0:23:260:23:32

I'm going to throw this in the oven.

0:23:320:23:34

Sauce is just about, dare I say, perfect.

0:23:340:23:39

Taste that, it needs a bit of seasoning.

0:23:390:23:42

-Give us a taste.

-No.

0:23:420:23:44

I'm going to put it back on there, I'm going to sieve it out and get rid of the bits and bobs.

0:23:440:23:51

Have you tasted these puppies here?

0:23:510:23:53

-What do you think?

-Dreadful.

-Fabulous.

0:23:530:23:56

-No, they're gorgeous.

-They're good.

0:23:560:23:58

I'm going to put two or three of those... You can chop them finer if you want.

0:23:580:24:02

Now we sear that liver,

0:24:020:24:05

one minute each side, a bit of salt and pepper both sides.

0:24:050:24:10

There we go. Into a nice hot pan.

0:24:100:24:14

Look at that, that is just...

0:24:140:24:17

Oh, yes. Beautiful!

0:24:170:24:19

We have the dauphinoise out of the oven.

0:24:190:24:21

I'm going to leave that to cool, then cut out chefy rounds.

0:24:210:24:25

These are the ones I made earlier.

0:24:250:24:28

All we have to do now

0:24:280:24:29

is roll the spinach round the pan in there. Some butter.

0:24:290:24:33

Now, because this has been rinsed off, there should be enough moisture to cook this down.

0:24:330:24:39

-Shall we plate up?

-Yes!

-Plate up the winning dish.

0:24:390:24:42

LAUGHTER

0:24:420:24:44

Very caramelised is the expression here.

0:24:440:24:47

-Just call them Cajun.

-I'd call them burnt.

0:24:470:24:50

The meat's resting here. I'm going to slice it once longitudinally.

0:24:500:24:55

Oohhh! Look at that!

0:24:550:24:58

Spinach is beautiful now.

0:24:580:25:01

Sit nice and neatly. Then plop a bit of the wild boar on top there.

0:25:010:25:07

-Yes.

-We've got this beautiful nugget of the wild boar liver on the top there.

0:25:070:25:14

Then we're going to sauce.

0:25:140:25:17

# Oh, it's all gone quiet over there... #

0:25:170:25:20

Here we have, Arley wild boar, organic spinach, roast carrots and pommes dauphinoise.

0:25:210:25:28

I give you the winning dish.

0:25:280:25:30

-The sauce is lovely.

-Yeah, superb.

0:25:360:25:38

-The liver's gorgeous.

-That's very good.

0:25:380:25:41

The dauphinoise have huge flavours.

0:25:430:25:45

It's very generous, the flavours are big, and it's a good portion.

0:25:450:25:51

It is good. That's lovely food. Yeah.

0:25:510:25:54

Still going to beat him, though.

0:25:540:25:57

But it's the locals who will decide whose dish is best in a blind tasting coming up.

0:25:570:26:02

'David has raised the bar with his wild boar.

0:26:020:26:04

'His flavours are big, but ours need to be bigger.

0:26:040:26:07

'And we know exactly where to look.'

0:26:070:26:10

Harold Bailey's farm is just down the road and specialises in

0:26:100:26:14

well-reared rare breed livestock that claims fantastic flavour.

0:26:140:26:19

But will it have the produce to give us the edge?

0:26:190:26:21

-It looks promising. To take David on, we need a good meat.

-That's right.

0:26:210:26:25

It doesn't have to be organic, but it has to be good husbandry.

0:26:250:26:30

It does, and we like to molly coddle our animals a little bit,

0:26:300:26:32

because it gives a better flavour.

0:26:320:26:34

The better you treat them, the better the flavour. There's nothing in the fields.

0:26:340:26:38

-No.

-They're all in the shed.

0:26:380:26:40

-Whoa!

-There you go!

0:26:450:26:48

-Oh, yes!

-Most of these are grey-faced Dartmoor, particularly

0:26:480:26:54

this one here, she's like a pedigree one here.

0:26:540:26:57

The grey nose is typical.

0:26:570:26:59

And this big forelock.

0:26:590:27:01

You can see...

0:27:010:27:04

Big forelock!

0:27:040:27:06

-It's all there!

-It's very similar.

0:27:060:27:09

They're a rare breed sheep. Then we're crossing some of our other

0:27:090:27:13

sheep to them to try to improve them and get a nice cross-bred lamb.

0:27:130:27:17

What's so good about Cheshire for sheep?

0:27:170:27:19

It's to do with the Cheshire plains and the salt in the ground that makes the grass grow.

0:27:190:27:25

You get a really good, lush,

0:27:250:27:28

but meaty grass that feeds grass-fed animals perfectly.

0:27:280:27:33

Carol, I don't see any lambs.

0:27:330:27:36

There are one or two, they're our breeding lambs, so we don't eat those.

0:27:360:27:40

What I have in mind for you are hogget lamb.

0:27:400:27:42

What's a hogget?

0:27:420:27:44

It's an older lamb anywhere from about nine months up to 15 months of age.

0:27:440:27:50

The longer the meat grows the better the flavour.

0:27:500:27:53

-It's not mutton though, is it?

-No, mutton is an old breeding sheep.

0:27:530:27:57

Some of these old girls here may only have one or two lots of lambs and then they become barren.

0:27:570:28:03

Those would then go for mutton.

0:28:030:28:06

-We do hogget, we can beat David Mooney?

-Absolutely.

0:28:060:28:11

-Ah!

-Here we go.

0:28:120:28:14

Hogget.

0:28:140:28:15

Now, that is a hogget lamb.

0:28:150:28:18

How long has that been hung for?

0:28:180:28:20

About 14 days.

0:28:200:28:22

-Right. Nice.

-That's where your meat's coming from.

0:28:220:28:25

Do you want the shoulder or the leg?

0:28:250:28:27

A bit of both.

0:28:270:28:29

-We've got to win this.

-Let's get me leg off, and shoulder.

0:28:290:28:32

Ready? There we go. That's your chops.

0:28:320:28:35

-Chop City. Look at that.

-Let's have the back end off.

0:28:350:28:38

Yes? Look at that.

0:28:380:28:40

You're a dab hand with a knife, you.

0:28:400:28:42

Let's split it. There you go.

0:28:420:28:44

And then that is your leg of lamb.

0:28:450:28:49

Carol, show us on this, what's different for the hogget than the lamb?

0:28:490:28:53

There's that little bit more fat cover on there.

0:28:530:28:57

You have a bit more fat in the muscle itself.

0:28:570:29:00

But it's that which gives you the flavour.

0:29:000:29:02

So it's a bit older, it needs a bit more sympathy.

0:29:020:29:06

Hogget is better for stews and casseroles and slow cooking?

0:29:060:29:10

-Yes.

-As do we all, a slow cooked, bit of sympathy. Absolutely!

0:29:100:29:16

Now we know what we're cooking - spiced hogget with a swede and Cheshire cheese gateau.

0:29:160:29:21

'To complement the full flavour of our hogget we need something equally as tasty.'

0:29:240:29:29

Where better to head than the Cheshire smokehouse?

0:29:320:29:35

They smoke anything, from pork to garlic.

0:29:350:29:37

I can't wait for a nibble.

0:29:370:29:39

-How long have you been smoking stuff here?

-We've been here 15 years.

0:29:390:29:43

But my great grandfather started smoking food in 1907, so I'm fourth generation.

0:29:430:29:49

These are smoke kilns that we actually built to exactly the same design as my great grandfather.

0:29:490:29:55

-Look at this.

-In here we have bacon that's been smoking and garlic.

0:29:550:30:00

Oh, what!

0:30:000:30:02

This has been in here for 18 hours. This is coal smoking, getting the flavour in.

0:30:020:30:08

But it does get in your eyes.

0:30:080:30:10

# Smoke gets in your eyes... #

0:30:100:30:13

That bacon is going to taste incredible.

0:30:130:30:15

What are you smoking it in?

0:30:150:30:17

This is a mixture of oak and beech chippings.

0:30:170:30:19

That bacon's very dark, what's it cured in?

0:30:190:30:22

It's been dry cured to start with, then it's soaked in molasses and honey.

0:30:220:30:26

-We have won awards for that one.

-I'm not surprised.

0:30:260:30:29

I bet the rind on that's lovely.

0:30:290:30:31

I'm going to show you the dry curing process for the bacon.

0:30:340:30:37

This is a mixture of salt, sugar and saltpetre.

0:30:370:30:40

This curing process, whether you're making

0:30:400:30:42

smoky bacon or ordinary bacon, that turns the pork into bacon?

0:30:420:30:46

Exactly, without this it would be a piece of smoked pork.

0:30:460:30:50

You get it all over the meat, rub it in. And on the fat side as well.

0:30:500:30:55

The fat will take the salt as well.

0:30:550:30:57

What will start happening is this salt will start drawing the moisture out of the bacon.

0:30:570:31:03

You'll lose say about a pound and a half, two pounds of moisture out of that.

0:31:030:31:07

-When you cook it you're not going to get the goo running out.

-How long do we leave that now?

0:31:070:31:11

That'll be left for round about four or five days.

0:31:110:31:15

After that we soak it in a marinade of molasses and honey, about another five days.

0:31:150:31:21

Then it will be smoked for 18 to 20 hours, then we're ready to slice it and eat it.

0:31:210:31:26

Got a bit of smoked chicken and duck, if you want a taste.

0:31:260:31:29

-Oh, God, yes.

-Are you mad?

0:31:290:31:32

This was hot smoked. First of all, it has been cured,

0:31:320:31:34

bit of garlic, honey, salt, and a tiny bit of brown sugar.

0:31:340:31:38

There ain't no dried up chicken breast taste there, is there?

0:31:380:31:42

Oh, hey. Stunning.

0:31:420:31:45

Some of our duck breast.

0:31:450:31:48

-Look at that.

-Because you're in a smoky environment now,

0:31:480:31:52

you're probably not getting the full flavour of that.

0:31:520:31:55

-Get that home and it tastes completely different.

-That's divine.

0:31:550:31:59

What is the difference between hot and cold smoked?

0:31:590:32:03

Hot smoked is cooking and smoking at the same time.

0:32:030:32:07

Cold smoked is what you have as bacon, smoked salmon,

0:32:070:32:11

you're not cooking it, you're just imparting the flavour.

0:32:110:32:13

Perfect.

0:32:130:32:15

We're in footballer country, is this where they come for their shopping?

0:32:170:32:21

-We get a few.

-Who?

0:32:210:32:23

Bobby Charlton comes in quite a but.

0:32:230:32:26

-Sir Bobby!

-Loves his bacon, and Peter Crouch banged his head on that ham,

0:32:260:32:30

I think, last time he was in.

0:32:300:32:34

-I'm going to do a bit of shopping.

-Help yourself.

0:32:340:32:37

The molasses sweet-cured bacon, he's got streaky.

0:32:370:32:41

That could be great, imagine haricot beans tossed in that.

0:32:410:32:44

I think the pancetta's gonna be perfect, what do you reckon with the hogget?

0:32:440:32:49

What about smoked garlic to go with the swede?

0:32:490:32:52

Swede, yeah. Be lovely, wouldn't it?

0:32:520:32:55

That should do us well. Look at that.

0:32:580:33:01

-Thank you very much.

-Thanks.

0:33:010:33:03

-Great, we're off.

-Yes!

0:33:030:33:06

It's our turn now. We have a belter.

0:33:060:33:09

It's a busy place so we better get on.

0:33:090:33:11

Spiced hogget, swede and Cheshire cheese gateau, braised fennel, filled with haricot beans,

0:33:110:33:18

tossed in that wonderful molasses bacon, then we're doing beetroot squares in a beetroot syrup.

0:33:180:33:25

Get on with it.

0:33:250:33:27

It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Cheshire.

0:33:270:33:32

-Oil. Oil. Pan.

-Oil. Pan. We're off to a good start.

0:33:320:33:36

We're putting nice pancetta in there.

0:33:360:33:39

-That's a lovely Cheshire delicacy that(!)

-It is.

0:33:390:33:41

The Cheshire smokehouse!

0:33:410:33:44

THEY LAUGH

0:33:440:33:47

Now we need to brown the hogget. Right now.

0:33:470:33:52

I just know this has got "losing dish" written all over it.

0:33:520:33:57

-You haven't seen what we're doing with this, though.

-I don't need to, I know.

0:33:570:34:01

-Garlic, old fruit?

-Yes, please, mate.

0:34:020:34:04

Time to get a bit of liquid into it - some good red wine.

0:34:040:34:07

I've just cut meself again.

0:34:070:34:11

You have not! You have not!

0:34:110:34:14

Look at the state of me.

0:34:140:34:16

It's like being on the set of Saving Private Ryan, this.

0:34:160:34:20

Set of bloody Casualty.

0:34:200:34:23

-Midsomer Murders.

-That's fine red wine, Chilean merlot.

0:34:230:34:26

-About half a pint.

-Two great things with hogget, anchovies and capers.

0:34:260:34:32

The zest of a lemon.

0:34:330:34:36

I got my dry goods now.

0:34:360:34:38

Stick of cinnamon.

0:34:380:34:40

A teaspoonful of cumin,

0:34:400:34:43

ground coriander, and half a teaspoon of ground ginger.

0:34:430:34:47

So that's going to give you a nice bit of underlying heat.

0:34:470:34:51

In fairness to you, you're showing promise here.

0:34:510:34:53

Two bay leaves.

0:34:530:34:56

To that, some lovely thyme.

0:34:560:34:59

Strip the good bits off the stalk.

0:34:590:35:01

Sage, now some traditional rosemary.

0:35:010:35:04

Look at that. Lovely. OK. That's all the ingredients in now.

0:35:040:35:08

We stick it in the oven for a couple of hours.

0:35:080:35:13

You think I've got all day to hang round with you guys.

0:35:130:35:15

Here's the thing, we've got one on the go already you see.

0:35:150:35:19

Oh! Crafty bikers!

0:35:190:35:22

Look at that.

0:35:220:35:24

That's concentrated Cheshire.

0:35:240:35:26

-Let's do the beets.

-You may ask, why am I peeling the beetroot?

0:35:260:35:32

Dave, why are you peeling the beetroot?

0:35:320:35:33

I want the juices to leech out, because the beetroot juice, we're

0:35:330:35:37

going to add sugar and some balsamic vinegar and make a beetroot syrup.

0:35:370:35:43

-Lovely reduction, you see.

-Oh.

0:35:430:35:45

Right, now possibly the piece de resistance and your downfall is the swede and Cheshire cheese gateau.

0:35:450:35:53

Down South they call them turnips.

0:35:530:35:55

-That's wrong.

-It's a swede.

-It's a swede.

-Can I barrow your mandolin?

0:35:550:35:58

I've got one here.

0:35:580:36:00

I fear we might need more plasters.

0:36:010:36:04

No, I'm not touching it.

0:36:040:36:06

Oh, dear me.

0:36:070:36:10

I can't do

0:36:100:36:11

this on a mandolin while slicing the...

0:36:110:36:14

Meanwhile, I'll prepare the dressing.

0:36:140:36:16

-I need two tablespoons of flour.

-Is that plain flour?

-Plain flour.

0:36:160:36:21

This is ground coriander.

0:36:210:36:24

One teaspoon.

0:36:240:36:26

White pepper, magic with turnips and mashed potato. About a teaspoonful of sea salt.

0:36:260:36:31

-You used to do this with chicken in the 1980s.

-What's this? The dressing for...

-I'll show you, love.

0:36:310:36:36

One perfectly sliced piece of turnip, swede.

0:36:360:36:40

I'll take this cutter,

0:36:400:36:42

mind me hands!

0:36:420:36:44

Just for once today.

0:36:440:36:45

There you have it.

0:36:450:36:48

A perfect rondelle.

0:36:480:36:50

-A swede rondelle.

-You could use the other bits for soup.

0:36:500:36:54

Aye, you could. Go and make turnip crisps for your punters. Go on.

0:36:540:36:59

Ray-Bans.

0:37:010:37:03

I toss me swede rings in the seasoned flour.

0:37:030:37:06

-This builds up the gateau.

-I'm agog.

0:37:060:37:09

You will be. So, I need to line the chef's ring.

0:37:090:37:12

Just stop the cream going out.

0:37:120:37:14

-Yeah.

-Oh! Hey!

0:37:140:37:16

I'll tell you what we need to do... You know our smoked garlic?

0:37:160:37:21

Is it smoked seriously?

0:37:210:37:22

Absolutely brilliant.

0:37:220:37:24

Oh, yeah. Actually, that is lovely.

0:37:240:37:26

Put some olive oil in there, stick it in the oven so all those cloves

0:37:260:37:31

just pop out. Mash it with butter, Bob's your uncle.

0:37:310:37:34

The ultimate garlic butter.

0:37:340:37:36

The ultimate garlic butter.

0:37:360:37:38

You take that wonderful smoked garlic butter, simply apply the brush

0:37:380:37:43

to the inside of the foil thingy.

0:37:430:37:45

While Dave's cracking on with that, this bacon, sweet black streaky bacon,

0:37:450:37:51

it's in molasses and honey.

0:37:510:37:52

Oh! That is absolutely sensational.

0:37:520:37:55

It is sensational stuff.

0:37:550:37:57

Remember this? This is my flour, put it in there. Shake. If it

0:37:570:38:02

were Jamie Oliver, I'd sell this plastic bag for £13.50, wouldn't I?

0:38:020:38:06

You'd be knocking them out,

0:38:060:38:08

-stick it on the website.

-Look at that ring of swede microscopically dusted with loveliness.

0:38:080:38:13

Place that in the bottom of me ramekin.

0:38:130:38:16

It's a tight fit, but it will shrink.

0:38:160:38:18

To that we do a layer of the finest Cheshire cheese,

0:38:180:38:23

then we do one of the swede rings, which has been garnished with a flour, then we stack them like that.

0:38:230:38:30

Top that with cream.

0:38:300:38:33

We have the best cream in Cheshire, without a doubt.

0:38:330:38:37

Do you know how to make a fennel spoon?

0:38:370:38:39

Oh, I see, it's like a Chinese spoon.

0:38:390:38:43

That simply needs steaming.

0:38:430:38:45

Can you smell burning beetroot?

0:38:450:38:47

Yes!

0:38:470:38:50

He's not wrong, actually.

0:38:500:38:52

-What? (BLEEP)

-Ah, you're joking.

0:38:520:38:54

But...

0:38:540:38:56

Oh, no! Oh, no!

0:38:560:38:59

THEY LAUGH

0:38:590:39:01

Here's one we did earlier!

0:39:010:39:03

Kingy, we're going win.

0:39:030:39:06

If we don't win, we've had a good time trying, you know.

0:39:060:39:09

While you're doing that then, I'll get on with the beans.

0:39:090:39:13

I'm going to fry this lovely bacon off like that.

0:39:130:39:16

-Want a bit of red wine in there?

-I think so.

0:39:190:39:21

Some sugar, and some of Cheshire's finest balsamic vinegar.

0:39:210:39:27

The smell off that bacon!

0:39:270:39:29

I wish you could smell this at home.

0:39:290:39:32

We've put the beans in that rendered fat.

0:39:320:39:35

It's all leeched out of the fantastic bacon we bought from the smokehouse.

0:39:350:39:39

It's going to be brilliant. I'm really looking forward to eating it.

0:39:390:39:42

That's the beetroot syrup. Our entities are coming together, Mr King.

0:39:420:39:46

-Happy?

-Happy.

0:39:480:39:50

Yabba dabba doo! We're ready to plate up.

0:39:500:39:52

You get the gateau.

0:39:520:39:54

I'll get this hogget.

0:39:540:39:57

-Right, now there's the hogget.

-Look at that!

0:39:580:40:01

Oh, Mr Myers!

0:40:010:40:03

I don't think they collected that much foil

0:40:070:40:10

for the Blue Peter appeal, did they?

0:40:100:40:12

They've got two guide dogs.

0:40:120:40:14

Look at that, lovely and golden.

0:40:170:40:20

To the side of that,

0:40:200:40:23

jauntily place a fennel spoon.

0:40:230:40:25

Oh.

0:40:250:40:26

A little spoonful of beans in there.

0:40:260:40:30

That's Cheshire on a plate. We have spiced hogget with

0:40:300:40:33

a fennel spoon of haricot beans and molasses bacon, served with a swede and Cheshire cheese gateau.

0:40:330:40:40

I've got to start with this.

0:40:400:40:43

Much as it grieves me to tell you,

0:40:430:40:46

it's very good. Swines!

0:40:490:40:52

Just try the gateau.

0:40:520:40:54

Look at that. In fairness, cut straight through it there like that.

0:40:540:40:58

Tell us that didn't work. It works doesn't it? It's good, isn't it?

0:41:000:41:05

On your bikes!

0:41:050:41:07

I knew it! I knew it!

0:41:070:41:09

Top drawer, boys, well done.

0:41:090:41:12

Let's see what the punters say.

0:41:120:41:14

First to be served up is David's dish of local wild boar with preserved winter plums and pommes dauphinoise.

0:41:170:41:24

The diners don't know who cooked which dish.

0:41:240:41:27

-Smells great.

-Very tender.

0:41:270:41:30

Quite a strong taste of garlic from something.

0:41:300:41:33

-Love the spinach.

-The boar cooked beautifully, all of it.

0:41:330:41:37

Everything, melt in your mouth. A beautiful dish.

0:41:370:41:40

I liked the taste of the plums with the boar.

0:41:400:41:43

The sweetness with the meat was very good.

0:41:430:41:45

Earthiness of the spinach went very well.

0:41:450:41:48

The downside for me was the garlic, which I felt was in the potatoes.

0:41:480:41:53

The boar was fabulous, the spinach was fabulous, I loved the way the plums worked.

0:41:530:41:57

The garlic in the potatoes ruined it as well.

0:41:570:42:00

I loved that we had a Cheshire dish in front of us and it tasted so good.

0:42:000:42:04

They seemed to enjoy the wild boar, well, apart from the garlic.

0:42:040:42:09

Will our spiced hogget be a success too?

0:42:090:42:12

Delicious. Nice beetroot in season.

0:42:120:42:16

My favourite. Mmm, lovely. I thought that was delicious.

0:42:160:42:20

That was a plate that I wanted to clear.

0:42:200:42:23

I felt that the chef had hit the nail on the head with this dish.

0:42:230:42:26

They'd taken a lot of time in thinking how the flavours worked together.

0:42:260:42:30

In terms of presentation, I found the beans on the fennel was a bit

0:42:300:42:34

-bland, similar colours, they didn't stand out.

-Not a meat I've had.

0:42:340:42:38

It's something I'd like to try again.

0:42:380:42:41

A lovely, rustic, wholesome dish which I thoroughly enjoyed.

0:42:410:42:44

Hello.

0:42:440:42:45

Well then, here we are.

0:42:510:42:54

This is the moment of truth.

0:42:540:42:56

Who preferred the wild boar?

0:42:570:43:00

And for the hogget?

0:43:000:43:03

The hogget was the Hairy's. That was us.

0:43:030:43:07

David, it's been such a good laugh and such a good time with you.

0:43:080:43:12

Guys, the pleasure's all mine. All I need is the keys to one bike and I'm a happy boy.

0:43:120:43:16

'I can't believe it, Kingy, our hogget was a winner.'

0:43:160:43:21

'David put up a good fight with his wild boar, mate, and he was a great laugh in the kitchen.'

0:43:210:43:26

'We feasted on fantastic flavours on our journey round Cheshire.

0:43:260:43:28

'We'll never forget the salty plains.

0:43:280:43:31

'They're the real reason for the distinct flavours of the county.'

0:43:310:43:34

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0:43:540:43:56

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