Episode 3 What to Eat Now


Episode 3

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Summer - the most exciting time for the seasonal cook - has arrived.

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The shops are crammed full of Mother Nature's summer bounty

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and the choice of ingredients leaves me dizzy with ideas.

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Wow, wow, wow... Wow!

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I'm Valentine Warner. Chef by trade, greedy by nature.

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This summer I'm taking you on a foody tour around Britain,

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showing you exactly what to eat now.

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HE SHOUTS

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Now, I didn't expect that!

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Tonight, it's all about cooking for special occasions.

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I'll be sourcing summer's finest ingredients

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for when your cooking needs to impress...

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That is a summer belter.

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..chasing guinea fowl in Wiltshire for a special birthday lunch...

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It's got a very...hah!

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..turning a daytrip to the coast into a fishy food-fest with a beach barbecue...

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If it was any fresher, you'd have to spank it.

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..and giving you my top tips

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on how to keep your cool when preparing for your special occasion.

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Oh, yummy! Really yummy.

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Whether you're celebrating an anniversary, having some friends round to watch the match

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or inviting your in-laws to tea,

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I believe special occasions deserve to be celebrated with the finest food and drink.

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But upping the culinary stakes needn't be complicated, as summer brings an abundance

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of luscious produce into our shops and markets.

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The vibrant colours and fantastic flavours on offer

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make cooking for special occasions a joy.

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One of my favourite summer vegetables is the globe artichoke -

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serve braised in white wine and you're bound to impress.

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These artichokes are great for special occasions cos they're not used that often

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and they're fantastic and they've got a wonderful earthy, slightly truffly taste.

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When preparing artichokes, it's good to wear rubber gloves

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because they can make your hands taste incredibly bitter.

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My fingers taste like the stuff my cruel parents

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used to paint on my nails to stop me sucking my thumb.

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Snap off the outer leaves, trim and hoik out the choke with a teaspoon.

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Nip off the bottom and then just take the fibrous skin off the stem.

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Pop the artichokes into some lemony water to prevent them from discolouring.

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Next, saute some chopped carrots, celery, garlic and onion

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with coriander and fennel seeds, bay leaves and seasoning.

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Then add your star player.

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Just sneak the artichokes in among the sweated vegetables.

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It's very pretty in here - pink, orange,

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pale greens.

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Simmer in white wine for about half an hour and leave to cool.

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Serve at room temperature with a generous drizzle of good olive oil

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and a handful of parsley.

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That is truly delicious. Earthy, fragrant,

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slightly bitter, but in a really pleasant way.

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That is really sensational.

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If you're celebrating a special occasion with friends this summer,

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where better to do it than on Britain's beautiful coastline?

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Some of my most memorable meals have taken place on the beach.

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It's hard to beat fresh fish plucked straight from the water

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and cooked simply on a barbecue.

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I've come to Newquay in Cornwall to cook some of the local summer fish on offer

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and I've roped in a team of anglers to do the hard work.

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Using a variety of techniques,

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they'll be trying to catch as big a haul as possible.

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The deal is - they catch it, I'll cook it.

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Good morning, everyone, on what I hope will be a very fishy and eventful day.

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-Does it feel fishy today?

-It feels very fishy. I can smell it in the air.

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The birds are looking quite active out there.

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Yeah, I saw the birds - they're all after something.

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Where there's little things, there'll be bigger things.

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So the idea is today that you go out and catch it

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and then you bring it back and I'll cook it.

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We're approaching it differently.

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-You're going out on your kayak.

-I am. A sea kayak.

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You two are fishing from a boat. And you're spear fishing.

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Yeah, I'll be the one getting in the water, getting a bit chilly.

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But it seems like a nice day, visibility-wise.

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Hopefully there's some quarry for us.

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What are the kinds of fish that are going to come back today?

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We can look at things like pollock,

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gilt-head bream, couches bream, black bream,

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gurnard, ling, John Dory, if you're lucky -

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they actually breed out here during the summer.

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-We might even get an octopus.

-That would be quite fun.

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It may surprise some people,

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but actually there's a lot of variety around here.

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-Yeah.

-And very tasty.

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Well, that depends on you, doesn't it?

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THEY LAUGH

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Shall we get on with it?

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-Fishing time is precious.

-Let's go catch some fish.

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Their oceanic shopping list has certainly whetted my appetite,

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though the fish I'm hoping for above all would be a sea bass.

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This wonderful meaty treat

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moves closer inshore with the warmer summer waters.

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If we could bag ourselves a freebie today, I'd be over the moon.

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My fishy gang are using every weapon at their disposal to try and land

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the best catch of the day.

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There's no knowing what they'll come back with

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and that does leave me with the slight dilemma

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of what to serve with our pot-luck fish supper.

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I'm going to make a really delicious char-grilled red pepper dish

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that goes fabulously well with all types of barbecue fishes.

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So, take a good pick of peppers,

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stick them straight onto the barbecue.

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The idea here is to really get them as blackened as possible.

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All the taste is in that lovely charriness.

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It's very hot, but I have a perverse joy

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in working with the pain.

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Out on the water, Katy and the guys' expertise is paying dividends.

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But if catching fish sounds too strenuous,

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seek out the day's freshest fish at the local fishmonger's instead.

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While the tide's creeping up behind me, I'm going to peel the peppers.

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They're nice and cool. Look how easily this comes away.

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Really simple. It just slides off and I can smell them.

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It's a sweet smell.

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Absolutely delicious.

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It's quite slimy work.

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It'd be tempting to wash the peppers,

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just to kind of rinse off any black bits,

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but don't do that or you'll rinse away

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all the lovely charred taste that you've achieved.

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Tear the skinned peppers into fat finger-sized strips,

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add the zest of a lemon and season.

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A really good grinding of black pepper - nothing wimpy here.

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Finely chop some fresh garlic, add a generous handful of capers

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and some chopped anchovy fillets.

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Finish off with a liberal glug of olive oil

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and some roughly torn mint and basil leaves.

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This is really ballsy stuff.

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It's sweet peppers, tangy capers and lemon,

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kind of really, "Argh!", anchovies

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and a real stab of garlic.

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It's not subtle cooking, but it's really tasty.

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The question is, just what am I going to be serving with my roasted red pepper salad?

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Oh, the mermaid returns.

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-I've got my legs back.

-What's in the goody bag?

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-I caught about eight or nine mackerel.

-Stiff as a board, super-fresh.

-Yeah.

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That lovely green, shiny...

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I call them the tigers of the sea with that pattern.

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Look at that. Good offerings.

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-Thank you.

-Go forth to the sea and clean your fishes.

-I shall.

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The spear fisherman.

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I thought you were going to come out of the sea

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like Ursula Andress, holding a spear gun.

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-Nothing quite so elegant.

-Look at those.

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Two fat pollock, expertly shot through the head.

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Spider crabs, which there's not much of a taste for in this country,

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but these are really good eating. Those are whopping great mussels.

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-Thank you very much.

-My pleasure.

-This is great. Ah. The boaters.

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G'day, Valentine.

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Wow, you've had a haul, guys.

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Let's have a look. Bring your box closer.

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-Stick it on the ground here.

-Another fat pollock

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and another good fish but not seen a lot on the fish counters,

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a ballan wrasse. I think they're delicious.

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I've actually eaten a few myself and I think they're quite good.

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Well, we might not have got a bass,

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but we've got variety and we can have a mixed fish grill.

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That's today's special.

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It doesn't get more special than super-fresh fish

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and so long as you remember my two golden rules, it's super-simple to cook on the barbecue.

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If you put them on wet, it's guaranteed that they'll stick,

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so they should go on as dry as you can possibly get them.

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A good crusty layer of salt

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also helps the fish stay slightly raised off the barbecue grill.

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It's crucial not to overcook fish on the grill.

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That way you'll get the best of its wonderfully succulent flesh.

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The smell coming off this fish is really fantastic.

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Can we have some mackerel, guys? Mackerel ahoy!

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Couldn't get it fresher than that, eh, Valentine?

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If it was any fresher, you'd have to spank it.

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Help yourselves to a beer, by the way.

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-Shall we have these as a little starter?

-I reckon, yeah.

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Pop a few of those open. So those can simply sit on the grill.

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If you're celebrating a special occasion with friends or family,

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it doesn't get much better than this.

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Fresh as you like, grilled on a beach barbecue.

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Mmm. That's absolutely perfect.

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Oh, my God.

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-Oh, my God.

-Thanks for that, Colin.

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Colin? Come and have a mussel. Try that.

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They don't need anything on them at all.

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-Excellent.

-They don't need a thing.

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With starters over, it's time for our main.

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Plates of beautifully barbecued mackerel, ballan wrasse and pollock

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laden with my cool roasted red pepper salad. Heavenly.

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Mmm.

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-It's good, isn't it?

-Just completely melts in the mouth, that does.

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It's nice. It's really nice. Those peppers are nice as well.

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It's lovely.

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As we're tucking in, I spot a spear fisherman coming from the waters

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and it looks like he's caught something mighty special.

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You've got the one fish we've been looking for all day.

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Where did you get that?

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Just out there, about 20 metres out.

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This guy has just come out of the water

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and he's got a bass.

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-If I cook it for you, could we put it on our barbecue?

-Of course.

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-Would you like to come and eat?

-Yeah. Sure thing.

-Great.

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-Well done, dude.

-No worries.

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What better way to finish the day

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than with my all time favourite summer fish, the sea bass?

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-You ordered the bass.

-Lovely.

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-There you go.

-Can I just pick at a bit?

-Yeah, pick at a bit.

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Well done, by the way. You're a genius.

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That is nice. You couldn't get more fresher as well, eh?

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Really firm,

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really meaty.

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You can actually taste a slight kind of crabbiness to it

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from all the shellfish it's picked up,

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as well as the other little fishes it hunts in the sea.

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It's an amazing tasting fish.

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Absolutely delicious.

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You don't need to go to the seaside to enjoy fabulous fish.

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Here's a simple sea bass recipe that brings the beach into your kitchen

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and makes a really special snack.

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Thinly slice a red onion, plunge in boiling water

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with bay leaves and peppercorns and leave to soften for 30 seconds.

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Dice a couple of avocados, add a squeeze of lime juice,

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a poky green chilli, some fragrant coriander

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and a dash of sunflower oil.

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Drain the onions, smother in the juice of an orange and lime

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and sprinkle with dried oregano and salt.

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Leave for an hour and they'll turn a punky electric pink.

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Sprinkle the sea bass with a perky cumin and chilli seasoning,

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then grill for about five minutes.

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Layer the ingredients onto a warm tortilla and indulge in these

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ludicrously tasty bass tacos with pickled pink onions.

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Wow-ee.

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Preparing for that special occasion

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can leave you feeling hot and bothered,

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especially when the temperature is soaring

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and your kitchen is the hottest room in the house.

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But keep your cool by following these three simple recipes

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that can be prepared in advance.

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Jazz up a gin and tonic with emerald green cucumber ice cubes.

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This is a way to make a refreshing drink even more refreshing.

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Use blended cucumbers pushed through a sieve

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to collect a luscious green juice, then freeze.

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All you have to do, take it out, make someone a drink

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and they've got fantastic, vivid green ice cubes in it

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which will impart their lovely cucumberiness.

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For an extra-special starter, try a refreshing chilled soup.

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Gazpacho - fantastic thing to give for a special occasion.

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It needs to sit around, so it's something you can prepare well in advance,

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put it in the fridge and let it get on with it.

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And it's so simple there's no cooking required.

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Blend tomatoes, peppers, garlic, cucumbers, bread and red onions

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with sherry vinegar, olive oil and salt.

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Give it a good taste.

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That's sensational.

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Serve with croutons, fresh green peppers and grated hard-boiled egg.

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Give it a try. You'll love it.

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Another great thing to have up your sleeve for a special occasion

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is home-made pickles and these pickled peaches are great

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with cold slices of ham or one of those really poky cheddars that

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make the roof of your mouth go, "Ptt ptt!"

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Skin and stone ripe peaches and gently simmer

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in a mixture of sugar, red-wine vinegar, shallots and spices.

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After a few minutes,

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remove the peaches, reduce the sauce to a syrup,

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then cover the fruit in that gloriously sticky, aromatic liquor.

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Really yummy. It makes for a memorable ploughman's.

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A poncier ploughman's, but a memorable ploughman's nonetheless.

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The lush grasses of summer make for some of the tenderest and tastiest meats around.

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One of my favourite summer delicacies is guinea fowl.

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Guaranteed to rise to that special occasion,

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right now they're plump, juicy and ripe for the plucking.

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Guinea fowl is a special bird. It's so delicious -

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a bit like chicken but chicken with intrigue and attitude

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and we really should be eating more of them.

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In West Africa, where it originates from,

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guinea fowl is considered a real delicacy.

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But in a West African restaurant down the road from my flat,

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guinea fowl has never appeared on the menu

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because head chef Damaris James

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doesn't believe that the birds exist in the UK.

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I'm taking her to Woolley Park Farm in Wiltshire

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to show her that British guinea fowl are alive and pecking.

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Damaris, we're here to convince you that there are

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good guinea fowl in this country.

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I don't believe there are guinea fowls in England

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because I haven't seen one myself.

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They are here.

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You're not convinced, are you?

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I'm not really, until I see them myself.

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Are you expecting me to say, "This is a guinea fowl,"

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and you're going to say, "That's not a guinea fowl..."

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When I see guinea fowl, I know guinea fowl, of course.

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We're meeting guinea fowl farmer Roz Candy

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and her trusty mutt, Basil.

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I can't wait to see the look on Damaris's face

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when they all run out.

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-Yeah. They like the freedom of being outdoors.

-Oh, right. Yes!

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This is guinea fowl.

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-Oh, right.

-All right, guys.

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-Are you happy now?

-Yes. This is guinea fowl.

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-Are you sure it's guinea fowl?

-I know this is guinea fowl.

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Definitely? 100%?

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This is African guinea fowl.

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Yeah. I believe it.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Do you think they look tasty?

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I think they look very tasty. Very, very tasty.

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And so they should be.

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Guinea fowl love nothing more than foraging in hedgerows for bugs and insects,

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which makes for a meat packed full of flavour.

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I want to have a close-up inspection of one of these beauties for myself.

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Do you think if I dived into the hedge, I might be able to get one?

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By all means give it a go, but I can't wait to see this.

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THEY LAUGH

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Oh, he's going straight in between some thistles.

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No, there's no way.

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Stealth manoeuvres aren't working.

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It's time for guerrilla tactics.

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Go on. Go before they come. Run!

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THEY LAUGH

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Get it!

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If you'd rather avoid thistles, you can get guinea fowl

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at your local butcher's and in some good supermarkets.

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I'd like to have shown you a guinea fowl. They're so beautiful with

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their blue faces and their spotted frocks, but they're too fast for me.

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Back in south-east London, I'm thrilled to see

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great British guinea fowl taking pride of place in Damaris's kitchen at last.

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So Damaris, here we are in your kitchen in your restaurant.

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So now you know you can get them here,

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-you've got lots of ideas going round?

-That's right.

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I saw you doing deals with Roz yesterday.

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Yes, I was.

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You were straight on the phone to your husband doing deals with Roz.

0:20:350:20:40

-That's right.

-Are we looking out for Damaris's guinea roasts?

0:20:400:20:43

-That's right.

-Good.

0:20:430:20:45

Damaris and I are going head to head in a cook-off

0:20:450:20:48

to see who can serve up the best guinea fowl dish

0:20:480:20:51

for her daughter's birthday lunch.

0:20:510:20:54

I'm going to be cooking West African peanut soup

0:20:540:20:58

with guinea fowl and you'll love to eat that.

0:20:580:21:02

I'm going for roasted guinea fowl with tarragon sauce.

0:21:020:21:05

Damaris starts by chopping the guinea fowl into bite-size pieces.

0:21:050:21:09

-Whoops!

-Wow-ee.

0:21:110:21:12

This is getting scary in here.

0:21:120:21:16

Then she adds a sliced onion, two plump ripe tomatoes,

0:21:160:21:21

a super-spicy scotch bonnet chilli and a glug of water.

0:21:210:21:25

Leaving it to simmer, I'm helping her prepare the peanuts.

0:21:250:21:29

We've cooked these fresh peanuts, toasted them,

0:21:290:21:33

giving them a good rub to get the skins off and then, Damaris,

0:21:330:21:39

-we're going to blend them into a paste, yeah?

-That's right.

0:21:390:21:43

Damaris removes the tomatoes and pepper from the pot,

0:21:460:21:50

blends to a puree, adds the crushed peanuts and then pours the mixture back in with the guinea fowl.

0:21:500:21:55

Careful. Very hot. How is it?

0:21:580:22:02

That is absolutely delicious.

0:22:020:22:05

And the chilli has just got a very...

0:22:060:22:09

THROATY, CRACKLING NOISE

0:22:090:22:11

-..but not, "Argh!"

-Hot, yeah.

-That's really fantastic.

0:22:110:22:14

I've got stiff competition here for best birthday dish, but I'm confident

0:22:140:22:20

that my summery roast guinea fowl is a serious contender to Damaris's West African speciality.

0:22:200:22:26

Rub the birds with lots of soft butter, season,

0:22:260:22:30

and roast in a hot oven for 35-40 minutes.

0:22:300:22:34

Once roasted, add a good teaspoon of flour to the juices in the pan

0:22:340:22:39

and whisk vigorously.

0:22:390:22:40

Wine. A little one for you?

0:22:420:22:45

-Where is my glass?

-Where is your glass?

0:22:450:22:47

Add a good glug of white wine, the juice of half a lemon

0:22:470:22:52

and a generous splash of cream.

0:22:520:22:55

Strain the sauce through a sieve and bring to a gentle simmer.

0:22:550:22:58

Lastly, add finely chopped fresh tarragon

0:22:580:23:02

to give it a liquorice kick.

0:23:020:23:04

Do you think your daughter's going to like this,

0:23:070:23:09

compared to the West African version?

0:23:090:23:11

-I think she's going to like mine best.

-That doesn't fill me with a huge amount of confidence.

0:23:110:23:17

It's not too hot.

0:23:200:23:21

It's nice.

0:23:250:23:26

-It's nice.

-But not as good as that?

0:23:260:23:30

It's a different thing, isn't it?

0:23:300:23:32

-Yeah.

-OK.

-Don't worry.

0:23:320:23:34

-I'm not worried. I'm a bit disappointed, in fact.

-Don't be!

0:23:340:23:38

Let's hope the birthday party guests give me a better response.

0:23:380:23:43

Guys, what do you think? Do you like the tarragon?

0:23:510:23:54

Well, I would say it's actually very different.

0:23:540:23:58

However, it's really tasty.

0:23:580:24:01

Well, I have to say today, that gets my vote.

0:24:010:24:04

-Oh, I'm sorry.

-Mine too.

0:24:040:24:07

-Well done, well done, well done.

-You win.

0:24:070:24:10

Happy birthday!

0:24:120:24:13

-Thank you very much.

-Happy birthday.

-Thank you!

0:24:130:24:17

If guinea fowl has got your juices flowing,

0:24:230:24:26

why not try it southern fried?

0:24:260:24:28

Dip the pieces into beaten egg and evaporated milk,

0:24:300:24:34

coat with a herb mix of flour, oregano, thyme, rosemary,

0:24:340:24:38

white and cayenne pepper, then deep fry in sunflower oil

0:24:380:24:41

for 20 minutes or so.

0:24:410:24:43

Turn the guinea fowl pieces regularly

0:24:470:24:49

until they're a rich golden-brown colour, then remove and devour.

0:24:490:24:53

Bloody hell, that's good.

0:25:010:25:03

If you want to make a special meal this week,

0:25:070:25:10

here's what you should be buying in the shops and markets.

0:25:100:25:13

Cutting a dash on the fishmonger's ice is tasty trout.

0:25:150:25:19

It's closer in flavour and texture to wild salmon,

0:25:190:25:23

but far less expensive.

0:25:230:25:25

Add a touch of class to your creations

0:25:250:25:27

with the last new potatoes of the season.

0:25:270:25:30

Look for unwashed ones - they're usually much fresher.

0:25:300:25:35

For unforgettable summer desserts, how about gooseberries?

0:25:350:25:39

They make wobbling jellies, fabulous fools,

0:25:390:25:42

tart ice creams and delectable jams.

0:25:420:25:46

Or why not buy ripe, juicy apricots?

0:25:460:25:49

Wonderful in lunch-boxes but even better

0:25:490:25:52

in one of my favourite summer puddings - apricot upside-down tart.

0:25:520:25:56

A pud that's guaranteed to wow your guests.

0:25:560:25:59

Although it's called apricot upside-down tart,

0:25:590:26:02

I think it should be called apricot face-down tart

0:26:020:26:05

because it's pretty hard not to eat the whole thing

0:26:050:26:08

and then in piggy remorse you'll just have to

0:26:080:26:10

go and lie down on the floor, groaning.

0:26:100:26:13

Start by halving and stoning eight or nine juicy apricots.

0:26:130:26:18

Then make the butterscotch sauce.

0:26:180:26:21

Add caster sugar, a splash of water and stick on a high heat.

0:26:210:26:24

Once the sugar's browned,

0:26:240:26:27

add some chopped butter and let it melt into a deep golden caramel.

0:26:270:26:32

Take the apricots and pop them in, cut side down.

0:26:320:26:37

Cover the little fellas with a snug pastry blanket, dot with small knobs of butter

0:26:380:26:43

and sprinkle with sugar.

0:26:430:26:44

Then put in the oven for about 35 minutes

0:26:440:26:46

and finally, prepare to turn out this fabulous tart.

0:26:460:26:51

Oh, look at that. Fantastic.

0:26:530:26:54

I'd like to leave this to cool, so it's at room temperature

0:26:540:26:59

but I just can't resist having a little bite.

0:26:590:27:02

It's fantastic with creme fraiche - but put it in a nice jug.

0:27:020:27:05

I'm always just putting the plastic pot on the table

0:27:050:27:08

and it winds my mother up all the time.

0:27:080:27:10

Another thing my mother would really disapprove of

0:27:100:27:14

is eating off a knife, and this is going to be hot. Hold on.

0:27:140:27:17

And another thing that wouldn't go down well,

0:27:270:27:30

talking with my mouth full.

0:27:300:27:32

Rich, sweet, crispy, apricoty.

0:27:320:27:36

So easy to make.

0:27:360:27:38

That is a summer belter.

0:27:380:27:40

Now you know what to eat and how to make it extra special,

0:27:410:27:45

get your friends and family together

0:27:450:27:48

and gorge yourselves silly on these summer delights.

0:27:480:27:51

Next week it's all about long, lazy, summer lunches.

0:27:560:28:01

I'll be foraging for herbs in the hedgerows.

0:28:010:28:04

Go on. Open wide.

0:28:040:28:05

There you are, darling. Yum yum!

0:28:050:28:07

Cooking fresh garden peas with a very special ingredient.

0:28:070:28:10

It is very, very nice and tasty.

0:28:100:28:13

Gerald, I have to say that you've made my year.

0:28:130:28:17

And making the perfect light summer dessert.

0:28:170:28:20

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:300:28:33

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