The Rich Time Traveller's Guide to Elizabethan England


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Imagine everything that's ever happened.

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The whole of history.

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Imagine you could go to any place at any time

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and see what the people then saw, understand what they thought

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and appreciate what they felt.

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What would that tell you about the human race?

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And how would that make you feel about the world you live in today?

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So much of what we know now goes directly back

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to England's Golden Age, the reign of Queen Elizabeth I.

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A time when England embraced the whole world.

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It's a period bursting with icons - Shakespeare,

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the Spanish Armada...

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..the Virgin Queen herself.

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Who wouldn't want to travel back in time and see it first hand?

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But if you did, what you would need most would be a visitor's handbook.

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Who are these strange people?

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So like us, but also so different.

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What are their rules, their customs and attitudes?

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I have spent years piecing these together so you don't have to.

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Let me plunge you into a world of splendour

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and magnificent achievements but also of uncertainty and doubt,

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where simple survival was an art in itself.

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A world of plague, violence and superstition...

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..but also of beauty and wisdom.

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I'll show you this fascinating period as if it's all around you.

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The sickness and the suffering as well as the power and the glory.

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Because this is Elizabethan England.

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So far your travels through 16th century England

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have shown you what conditions are like at the very bottom of the social ladder.

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It's not a pretty picture.

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Populated by vagrants and criminals, the blind and the infirm,

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this is a world of distress, disease and deprivation.

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Life is undeniably tough.

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It's also often painful and alarmingly short.

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As a time traveller, you might be forgiven for deciding not to return

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to this particular destination.

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That would be a shame, however,

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because Elizabethan England has a great deal more to offer you.

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This time, far from suffering the hardships of poverty,

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you'll share in the luxury and privileges of society's elite.

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Take almost any painting from Elizabethan England and what do you see?

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Royal courtiers dressed in silk and velvet?

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Magnificent jewels and ostentatious ruffs?

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Extravagant feasts and joyous dancing?

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These artworks always depict the lives of the very rich. Why?

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Because only they can afford such luxuries as paintings.

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When you first glance at these faces,

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what you see are expressions of serene confidence,

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borne of a lifetime of privilege, wealth and power.

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Look a little deeper into those placid eyes, however,

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and you may begin to see something else.

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Is that doubt? Uncertainty? Do you see...fear?

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These are dangerous days, uncertain times, and it's worth remembering

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that those who have the most also have the most to lose.

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But let's not dwell on such matters for the time being.

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Instead let's focus on the fine things in life that the wealthy enjoy.

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And where better to start

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than at one of the Queen's most magnificent palaces.

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Here, you'll find it's all about keeping up appearances

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and no-one knows this better than the Queen herself.

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Previously a favourite of her father, Henry VIII,

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Hampton Court is just one of the 20 palaces

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inherited by the young Queen.

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Of these, she gives seven away,

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and now spends an average of £4,000 per year maintaining the remainder.

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To put things in perspective, at the time of your visit,

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a whole year's labour earns the average worker just five pounds.

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The prime reason for the Queen maintaining

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Hampton Court Palace is for it to be a museum to her father's greatness.

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It is still packed with his possessions,

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which visitors from the continent come to see.

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But bear in mind, if you want to be among their number,

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you'll have to get a letter of introduction.

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Since you have no shortage of money,

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securing such an invitation will be relatively easy.

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But to be accepted into this world,

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you must clearly signal your place in the strict hierarchy of Elizabethan society.

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Servants, visitors, royal courtiers.

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Virtually every level of society is represented here.

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You won't have any difficulty telling them apart.

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Everyone's status is denoted by their clothes.

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Exactly what you wear will depend on when you are here.

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Get your dates wrong, even by as little as a year or two,

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and you risk ridicule or rejection.

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Courtiers travelling abroad carry the latest trends

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back from the continent,

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either in person or by sending fashion dolls

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dressed in miniature outfits.

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According to dramatist Thomas Dekker,

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this fuels an eclectic mix of styles.

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"The Englishman's dress is like a traitor's body that has been

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"hanged, drawn and quartered.

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"His codpiece is in Denmark,

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"the collar of his doublet in France, the narrow sleeve in Italy,

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"the short waist hangs over a butcher's stall in Utrecht."

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But if there's no such thing as a "typical" outfit,

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then just where do you start?

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The Queen, just by virtue of being a woman,

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encourages a more feminine look, even for men.

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Gone are the enormous shoulder pads and oversized cod-pieces of Henry VIII's court.

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As for ladies, you must never reveal your bare arms or legs in public.

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That sort of behaviour is quite strictly for the lower classes.

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But when it comes to cleavage, it's quite another matter.

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Queen Elizabeth, at the age of 63,

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is happy to display her entire bosom, as the wide-eyed

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and open-mouthed French ambassador Andre Hurault notes in 1597.

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Fashions become steadily more lavish as the Queen's reign progresses,

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much to the disapproval of the Puritans.

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One of the harshest critics of these excesses is the writer Philip Stubbes.

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His most famous work, The Anatomy of Abuses,

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is nothing short of 144 pages of ranting

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against the fripperies of his fellow Englishmen.

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"By wearing of apparel more gorgeous, sumptuous

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"and precious than our state,

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"calling or condition of life requireth,

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"we are puffed up into pride and induced to think of ourselves

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"more than we ought, being but vile earth and miserable sinners.

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"Neither the Libertines nor the Epicures,

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"nor yet the vilest Atheists that ever lived

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"exceeded this people in pride."

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For a wealthy traveller like you,

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"gorgeous apparel" is an absolute must,

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and one of the best examples of this is the ruff.

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At the beginning of the Elizabethan period,

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both men and women start showing the collars of their smocks

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and shirts over the tops of their tunics.

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As this becomes the fashion,

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it grows into a separate garment which is easier to wash.

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Starch allows it to grow even bigger,

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until by the 1580s it uses a full six yards of linen

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and requires a circular board to support it.

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If you really want to show off, vibrant colour is another

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very effective way of demonstrating your wealth.

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It is the law that only the aristocracy

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and landed gentry are able to wear certain fabrics such as cloth of gold or cloth of silver,

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red and blue velvet, embroidery and silk.

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To create a bright crimson colour,

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you need cochineal insects from Central America.

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Obtaining a single ounce of purple dye

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requires around 30,000 Mediterranean whelks,

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so dressing flamboyantly certainly doesn't come cheap.

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But a word of caution, in the early part of her reign,

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Elizabeth's dress sense is much more to the Puritans' liking.

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She often wears stark black and white,

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which represent constancy and purity.

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Together these symbolise eternal virginity,

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an image she is keen to project.

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So it might not be a good idea to turn up at court and risk

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upstaging the Queen by wearing a cloak of bright red cochineal.

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Fortunately, since you will be in a royal palace,

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you will be able to check how you look in a mirror,

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which until recently has been a rarity almost anywhere else.

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Yet again, however, the Puritan Philip Stubbes strongly disapproves.

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Charming!

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Assuming you remain undeterred by such scathing verbal attacks,

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you will be keen to try out your carefully-chosen outfit to see

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if it makes the correct impression in the presence of royalty.

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But as Hampton Court is not one of the Queen's favourite residences,

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most of the time you will find that she's absent.

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Unless she is staying at one of her other palaces,

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there's a good chance you have arrived

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while the Queen is away on one of her famous Royal Progresses.

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On no fewer than two dozen occasions during her reign,

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the entire royal court packs up and takes to the road.

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Tapestries and paintings are removed from the walls and put into storage,

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along with the silverware and other valuables,

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while a core staff keeps the palace clean,

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aired and ready for her return.

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These outings are a major undertaking,

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requiring between 300 and 400 carts and wagons

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and up to 2,400 horses.

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In the words of one court observer:

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"Nothing save war is more disruptive to the orderly

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"well-being of court life than a Royal Progress."

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But progresses form a vital part of Elizabeth's queenship.

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They allow people to see her in the flesh and even to meet her.

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She in turn can become acquainted with her subjects.

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Some of her courtiers are quietly amused by the Queen claiming to be

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personally familiar with thousands of members of the landed gentry.

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But she really does know quite a lot of them,

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largely because of these progresses.

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It's another example of Tudor visual propaganda,

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in which the Queen herself becomes a living portrait.

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She doesn't travel far, however,

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since she only visits parts of the country in which she is popular.

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She won't set foot in the pro-Catholic north, for example.

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But if you wish to catch up with the Royal Progress,

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you will have to think about transport.

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How do the rich and powerful get around?

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Elizabethans are a surprisingly mobile lot,

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and that also applies to the country's many poor people,

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although they rarely travel more than a few miles,

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and almost always on foot.

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As a member of the gentry, you wouldn't dream of travelling

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in such a dangerous, dirty and vulgar way.

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What you want is a set of wheels.

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Coaches have soared in popularity as a result

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of the Protestant Revolution.

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Gentlemen and their families coming back from the continent

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have brought with them the customs of places like Antwerp

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where there are 500 coaches on the streets of the city.

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The greater number of coaches in England means that the price drops,

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allowing even the lower reaches of the gentry to travel in this way.

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In the 1570s, for instance, you can pick up a second-hand coach

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for around eight pounds with a team of four horses

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thrown in for an extra ten pounds.

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For the budget traveller, you can even hire one

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for 16 shillings per day, plus food for the coachman.

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But don't forget to allow for horse-feed, which can easily

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cost more than meals for yourself and your servants.

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Compared to a simple cart or horse,

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four-wheeled coaches offer relative luxury and comfort.

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This makes them popular among ladies wishing to take advantage

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of the privacy in which to exchange gossip,

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or indeed "gentlemen" wishing to take advantage of ladies.

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If you wish to be seen as a real gentleman however,

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you should leave this rather effeminate form of transport

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to the fair sex, and ride alongside on your horse.

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Of course, the ability of coaches to offer greater comfort and speed

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is hugely dependent on one thing, the state of England's roads.

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These roads were intended for feet and hooves,

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not thousands of iron-rimmed wooden wheels.

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The clergyman William Harrison puts his finger on the problem

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in his celebrated Description of England.

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Surprisingly, another potential obstacle

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for your coach and horses is the bridge.

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Many are wooden and in a poor state of repair.

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One look at some of them and you might fear you are taking your life in your hands.

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But even a sturdy and well-maintained stone bridge

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can still mean the end of the road for your coach trip.

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Some bridges, particularly those in rural areas,

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are as narrow as four foot, which is fine

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if you're just riding a horse or driving a flock of sheep to market.

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But if you're travelling by coach it's quite another matter,

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especially if your coachman has tethered his horses in pairs

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as opposed to the old method of all in a line.

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As a coach traveller, however, you face another hazard

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far more sinister than any muddy road or wonky bridge.

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The highwayman.

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If the word "highwayman" conjures up images

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of 18th century scoundrels like Dick Turpin, think again.

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Between 1567 and 1602 in Essex alone,

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there are 60 court cases relating to the theft of over £1,000 worth

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of money and jewellery, all of it stolen on the highways.

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And just like their 18th century counterparts,

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these highway robbers are often much more than common thieves.

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Take, for example, the notorious Gamaliel Ratsey,

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son of a Lincolnshire gentleman and something of a Robin Hood figure.

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He sports a grotesque mask, is generous to the poor,

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and has a wicked sense of humour.

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Not content with removing your possessions,

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he may well steal your dignity as well.

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He has been known to lecture a troupe of actors on their art

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while taking their valuables.

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If you are a Cambridge scholar, he might force you to recite

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a piece of classical literature during your ordeal.

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On another occasion,

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having robbed two wealthy wool merchants near Stamford,

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he mockingly knights them "Sir Walter Woolsack" and "Sir Samuel Sheepskin".

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If you do have the misfortune to run into the likes of Ratsey or his cohorts, what can you expect?

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You'll probably hear them before you see them

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as they communicate using owl noises.

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When you do see a group of armed ruffians ahead of you,

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you'll turn to find another group cutting off your retreat.

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When they rob you, they won't just take your money.

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They'll take your clothes and horses, too.

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Some robbers will kill you on the spot,

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but Ratsey's gang will normally tie you up in the forest

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in such a way that you can work yourself loose after an hour or so.

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Then you can make your way to the nearest inn or town...

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in your underclothes.

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Even if you are spared such an ordeal, you will no doubt

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be relieved to arrive at a place of relative safety, such as an inn.

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As a wealthy traveller, you might stay at an inn, but only as a matter of necessity.

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It's unlikely that the dubious pleasures on offer will attract you.

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What's more, even the most respectable establishments

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might harbour thieves and other unsavoury characters.

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They aren't places for refined gentlemen to stay, still less their ladies.

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You'll feel much more at home if you arrange a stay at the house of a gentleman.

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And in Elizabethan times,

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there's a rapidly increasing number to choose from.

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Hundreds of these handsome manor houses spring up

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during the Queen's reign, as more and more people

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succumb to a wave of construction fever.

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"Every man almost is a builder...

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"..and he that hath bought any small parcel of ground,

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"be it never so little,

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"will not be quiet till he has pulled down the old house

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"(if any were there standing) and set up a new after his own devising."

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Most people would agree that a manor house like this is truly grand.

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But while it's clearly an expensive place, it's important to realise

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it's not the nobility building houses like this, it's the gentry.

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So who are the gentry?

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In the strict hierarchy of Elizabethan society,

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the gentry are ranked below the level of aristocracy

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but above anyone who has to get their hands dirty to earn a living.

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They generate their income by letting out land.

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But just how much do you need to earn to make the grade?

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At the top end of the scale,

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a successful lawyer who has wisely invested in a country estate

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can expect to pocket in excess of £3,000 per year, as much as an earl.

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Many so-called "gentlemen" worth considerably less than this

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compensate by pointing to their family coat of arms.

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This speaks of an ancestry steeped in the honour and chivalry

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of knighthood, and allows them to refer to themselves as "esquire".

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But if you want to join them, don't do what some would-be

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gentlemen do, and simply make one up.

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England doesn't have a police force yet,

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but there's a lot of policing going on.

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And in this case, officials called "heralds"

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scour the counties searching for bogus claims.

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You might ask, "Why do so many people want to mimic the gentry?"

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There are many reasons, most of them to do with status and local influence.

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But the important thing to recognise is that the gentry as a whole

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really do run the country.

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Think about it financially.

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In the year 1600, the income of all the earls,

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barons and other members of the nobility combined

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amounts to around £220,000.

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The income of the gentry is at least ten times that amount,

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possibly even 20.

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But there is more to their power than just money.

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The gentry don't just control the rural people around them,

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their tenants and servants and so forth.

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They practically own and run the whole country.

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From the ranks of the gentry the magistrates and sheriffs are drawn,

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and almost every official in central and local government.

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With no national army in place, it is the gentry who are appointed

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to be deputy lieutenants in every county,

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overseeing and controlling the militia.

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In Parliament, too, it is the gentry who are elected

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to fill the House of Commons.

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As Sir Walter Raleigh says,

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"The gentry are the garrisons of good order throughout the realm."

0:23:160:23:20

So forget your 21st century ideas of democracy and equality.

0:23:220:23:25

Elizabethans believe that only in the eyes of God

0:23:250:23:29

on Judgement Day are all men and women equal.

0:23:290:23:33

Before that, if you want to become an MP or a clergyman,

0:23:330:23:37

you will need the support of a gentleman

0:23:370:23:39

to open a few doors for you.

0:23:390:23:41

A word of advice on greeting.

0:23:430:23:45

When a man comes to a house, if the door is opened by a lady,

0:23:450:23:49

then the correct etiquette is for him to take her by the arm

0:23:490:23:52

and kiss her smack on the lips,

0:23:520:23:54

even if she is the wife of the master of the house.

0:23:540:23:57

This is just good, gentlemanly behaviour,

0:23:570:23:59

but you might want to give it a miss when the plague is in town.

0:23:590:24:02

Naturally, the interiors of these manor houses have

0:24:150:24:18

more in common with the palaces and stately homes to which they aspire

0:24:180:24:22

than with the cramped and squalid homes of the poor.

0:24:220:24:25

Look around and you'll see the signs of the owner's wealth and status.

0:24:290:24:33

The carved wood, perhaps a portrait or two

0:24:330:24:37

and maybe even a mirror.

0:24:370:24:39

You'll also find carpets,

0:24:390:24:41

but they are laid across the tops of tables and over chests.

0:24:410:24:45

Only the exceptionally wealthy ever put them on the floor.

0:24:450:24:48

It is quite common to find an arsenal of weapons here, too.

0:24:500:24:54

Enough pikes, swords, shields and plate armour

0:24:540:24:57

to equip the local amateur militia,

0:24:570:24:59

should the call to arms suddenly ring out.

0:24:590:25:02

Another clear sign that you are in the house of a gentleman

0:25:060:25:09

is the presence of servants.

0:25:090:25:11

From just one or two in a modest household

0:25:140:25:16

to 20 or more in a wealthier one.

0:25:160:25:18

Every manservant will cost you about two pounds per year,

0:25:190:25:22

and every female domestic helper about half that,

0:25:220:25:25

although in households like this,

0:25:250:25:27

it's not unusual for an employer to "overlook" payment

0:25:270:25:30

for several months and sometimes for several years.

0:25:300:25:33

And notice I use the word "household", not family.

0:25:360:25:39

The household is this larger group, which includes the servants,

0:25:390:25:42

who are expected to be loyal.

0:25:420:25:45

This means that servants have to prioritise employers' interests

0:25:450:25:48

over those of their own kin.

0:25:480:25:50

Don't be too shocked if you catch the master of the house

0:25:570:26:00

beating his servants, he may do this with impunity.

0:26:000:26:04

He may also beat his wife

0:26:040:26:06

and is positively expected to beat his children.

0:26:060:26:09

Not to do so is seen as quite irresponsible.

0:26:090:26:12

As long as he stops short of actually killing anyone,

0:26:120:26:15

he will escape retribution.

0:26:150:26:17

Technically, it IS illegal for a man to kill his servants,

0:26:200:26:23

but since all that's required as a defence

0:26:230:26:25

is to say that he didn't mean to take a life,

0:26:250:26:27

prosecutions for this are exceedingly rare.

0:26:270:26:31

And violence is not the only manner in which your host

0:26:310:26:34

may take advantage of his authority.

0:26:340:26:36

Likewise, it is perfectly normal for the master of the household

0:26:400:26:43

to expect to receive sexual favours from his female servants.

0:26:430:26:47

The girl in such a situation is in a terrible predicament.

0:26:470:26:50

Refuse and she faces dismissal,

0:26:500:26:53

but give in and she risks disease and pregnancy.

0:26:530:26:56

And when pregnancy is discovered, she'll probably be dismissed anyway.

0:26:560:27:00

You get a good sense of how engrained such misogyny is

0:27:030:27:05

from a 1599 case in Norwich.

0:27:050:27:08

The mayor's court decrees that an 18-year-old maidservant,

0:27:080:27:11

Katherine Vardine, should be dismissed from her master's service

0:27:110:27:15

because HE has syphilis.

0:27:150:27:17

It is simply assumed that he will take advantage of her and infect her.

0:27:170:27:22

Whether or not such bawdy privileges are extended to you as a guest,

0:27:390:27:43

you will doubtless still be keen to get a good night's sleep,

0:27:430:27:46

which brings us to the bedchamber.

0:27:460:27:49

The first thing you must do waking up in the house of a gentleman

0:27:490:27:52

is to attend to your personal hygiene.

0:27:520:27:55

Cleanliness is an important part of culture and sophistication,

0:27:550:27:58

and the rich will expect you to do something about any bodily odours you might have.

0:27:580:28:03

The obvious answer is to have a bath.

0:28:030:28:06

However, the Elizabethans do not share our obsession with soap and water.

0:28:060:28:10

In fact, they believe that unclean water can make you unwell,

0:28:100:28:13

by entering the pores of your skin, and in that, they're not far wrong.

0:28:130:28:18

Even something as simple as water is subject to hierarchy.

0:28:200:28:24

Rainwater collected from the roof is pure,

0:28:240:28:27

since it comes directly from God.

0:28:270:28:29

But this is a luxury reserved for washing the parts of the body that show.

0:28:290:28:34

Since anything else, such as river water, may indeed carry

0:28:360:28:39

infection and disease, you should follow the example

0:28:390:28:43

of your fellow Elizabethans and avoid immersing yourself in it.

0:28:430:28:47

So just how do you keep yourself clean in the house of a gentleman?

0:28:480:28:52

The key to 16th century personal hygiene is not water but linen.

0:28:550:29:00

In his book of Naturall and Artificial Directions,

0:29:000:29:03

the lawyer William Vaughan advises:

0:29:030:29:06

Linen towels called "rubbers" are used to rub your skin

0:29:220:29:24

and even your hair clean.

0:29:240:29:27

Shirts, smocks and other undergarments,

0:29:270:29:29

which soak up sweat and catch dirt, are changed daily.

0:29:290:29:32

As you can see, you keep yourself clean by washing not your body but your clothes.

0:29:320:29:37

The rich also make liberal use of perfumes and pomades

0:29:400:29:43

to improve the smell of their clothes, bodies and hair.

0:29:430:29:46

And while eradicating your bodily odours,

0:29:490:29:52

you mustn't forget to take care of your breath.

0:29:520:29:55

In the absence of dental floss, you might use a toothpick

0:29:560:29:59

made of wood, bone or the quill of a feather.

0:29:590:30:01

There are no toothbrushes, so instead you'll

0:30:010:30:04

clean your teeth with a tooth cloth,

0:30:040:30:06

which is a strip of linen.

0:30:060:30:08

As for freshening your breath, you might chew cumin seeds or aniseed.

0:30:080:30:14

Either of these is probably going to be more advisable than doing

0:30:140:30:16

what some physicians recommend, which is

0:30:160:30:19

washing your mouth out with white wine followed by

0:30:190:30:21

spirit of vitriol.

0:30:210:30:23

Spirit of vitriol, by the way, is sulphuric acid.

0:30:230:30:26

A fragrant aroma is not just important for social reasons.

0:30:350:30:39

Elizabethans firmly believe that foul-smelling air,

0:30:410:30:45

like dirty water, carries illness into the body.

0:30:450:30:48

The understanding is that your body contains four humours -

0:30:530:30:56

blood, phlegm, black bile

0:30:560:30:58

and yellow bile, or choler.

0:30:580:31:00

Noxious smells and stagnant water

0:31:000:31:03

create miasmas,

0:31:030:31:04

which upset the balance of these humours in your body.

0:31:040:31:07

So too much black bile makes you melancholy,

0:31:070:31:09

too much yellow bile makes you choleric,

0:31:090:31:11

and too much blood makes you sanguine.

0:31:110:31:13

All this is the legacy

0:31:130:31:15

of an ancient Roman physician called Galen

0:31:150:31:17

and it is believed unquestioningly by physician and patient alike.

0:31:170:31:22

By the same token, goodness and purity flow into your body

0:31:240:31:28

the same way, so if you are given a bath during your stay, it is

0:31:280:31:31

likely to be full of herbs and medicines to treat an illness.

0:31:310:31:36

This helps to explain one of the most famous

0:31:370:31:40

and misunderstood lines about Queen Elizabeth -

0:31:400:31:42

that she takes a bath every month, whether she needs it or not.

0:31:420:31:46

The need actually relates to illness -

0:31:460:31:48

you take a bath for medical reasons.

0:31:480:31:51

So the Venetian ambassador who writes this isn't

0:31:510:31:54

saying that the Queen is unclean.

0:31:540:31:56

He's saying that she bathes regularly -

0:31:560:31:58

even when she's not ill.

0:31:580:31:59

According to 16th century medical wisdom, however,

0:32:060:32:09

many things can cause an imbalance of your humours.

0:32:090:32:12

The movements of the stars, the will of God,

0:32:160:32:19

and witchcraft are all just as likely a diagnosis.

0:32:190:32:23

Your modern knowledge of basic healthcare

0:32:250:32:27

means you may be able to avoid some illnesses,

0:32:270:32:30

like dysentery, typhus and scurvy.

0:32:300:32:34

But the very nature of diseases is different from what you know,

0:32:340:32:37

and changing all the time.

0:32:370:32:39

Take syphilis, for example.

0:32:400:32:42

In 1500, this can kill you rapidly - perhaps in as little as two weeks.

0:32:420:32:47

Two decades on and you can expect to live for 20 years with

0:32:470:32:49

the disease, suffering all the time and going mad at the end, of course.

0:32:490:32:54

And it's not just diseases that are different.

0:32:560:32:58

The cures and the people who administer them will be

0:33:000:33:02

equally unfamiliar to you.

0:33:020:33:05

More often than not, if you do fall ill,

0:33:050:33:07

it won't be a doctor that you see.

0:33:070:33:09

Your first line of defence is likely to be local older women

0:33:090:33:13

and gentlewomen, whose knowledge is increasing with

0:33:130:33:16

the ability to read medical books.

0:33:160:33:19

If you require an operation, don't be too alarmed if you discover

0:33:220:33:26

that it is carried out by the same man who recently cut your hair.

0:33:260:33:30

So-called "barber-surgeons" actually have quite a strong

0:33:340:33:38

understanding of anatomy,

0:33:380:33:39

since physical injuries from arrows,

0:33:390:33:42

swords and even guns

0:33:420:33:43

are relatively common.

0:33:430:33:46

And, thanks to the barber-surgeons Act of 1540,

0:33:460:33:49

those based in London can practice on the corpses of four

0:33:490:33:52

executed criminals selected by them every year.

0:33:520:33:56

The bad news is that concepts such as germs

0:33:580:34:01

and sterilisation are still centuries away, so even after

0:34:010:34:06

a successful operation, you are quite likely to die of infection.

0:34:060:34:10

It's also worth mentioning that

0:34:200:34:22

professional medical help doesn't come cheap.

0:34:220:34:24

In the year 1600, you can expect

0:34:240:34:27

to pay around 13 shillings

0:34:270:34:28

for a course of treatment -

0:34:280:34:30

that's more than a month's wages for the average worker.

0:34:300:34:33

Even if you CAN afford 13 shillings,

0:34:350:34:38

the advice you get might not be any better.

0:34:380:34:40

Some physicians have been known to prescribe powdered Egyptian mummy

0:34:400:34:44

or the skull of a man killed in war.

0:34:440:34:47

Frankly, the best medical advice I can give you is...

0:34:470:34:50

don't get sick!

0:34:500:34:52

With so many manor houses being built by the gentry,

0:34:570:35:01

you might be surprised to find that this construction boom

0:35:010:35:03

does not extend upwards to the nobility.

0:35:030:35:06

In fact, during Elizabeth's reign,

0:35:060:35:09

not a single new stately home is built by the aristocracy.

0:35:090:35:12

You are more likely to find them living in the medieval houses

0:35:120:35:15

and castles built by their ancestors.

0:35:150:35:18

Why?

0:35:180:35:20

Obviously, a castle is a fairly effective status symbol,

0:35:200:35:23

but that may not be the only reason.

0:35:230:35:25

Old money is inherited,

0:35:270:35:29

so it belongs to whole families, not individuals,

0:35:290:35:33

and is often tied up in loans

0:35:330:35:34

or other financial arrangements.

0:35:340:35:37

As a result, many noblemen

0:35:380:35:40

simply can't afford

0:35:400:35:41

the luxury of tearing down their

0:35:410:35:43

old houses and building new ones,

0:35:430:35:45

especially when a house fit for a nobleman would at least have

0:35:450:35:48

to equal something like this...

0:35:480:35:50

The great houses built during Elizabeth I's reign

0:36:040:36:07

are among the finest that England will ever see, and the aesthetic

0:36:070:36:11

near-perfection of Hardwick Hall is arguably the greatest of them all.

0:36:110:36:15

The first thing that will strike you on seeing this house is just

0:36:170:36:20

how much glass there is on display.

0:36:200:36:22

"Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall," as the saying goes.

0:36:220:36:26

But that could be said of every stately home

0:36:260:36:28

built in England at this time.

0:36:280:36:30

Although having your own glazier keeps the cost of glass down

0:36:340:36:37

to about ten pence per square foot,

0:36:370:36:39

the price quickly mounts up.

0:36:390:36:43

Of the £5,000 or so it costs to build a house like this,

0:36:430:36:46

glass alone can account for more than £300,

0:36:460:36:50

not including the stone frames, the shutters and the fittings.

0:36:500:36:53

So, if the nobility can't afford such a hefty price tag,

0:36:550:36:58

who is footing the bill for these magnificent

0:36:580:37:01

and hugely expensive stately homes?

0:37:010:37:03

The answer lies in where the money comes from -

0:37:140:37:17

not from inheritance, but through the efforts

0:37:170:37:20

and ingenuity of a new breed of rich men.

0:37:200:37:23

They are merchants, civil servants and lawyers,

0:37:260:37:28

who have made fortunes by investing prudently or maximising

0:37:280:37:31

the advantages of their official positions.

0:37:310:37:34

They include men like Sir William Cecil,

0:37:340:37:37

who spends about £2,000 every year

0:37:370:37:38

on his building projects, which include

0:37:380:37:41

Burghley House in Lincolnshire and Theobalds in Hertfordshire.

0:37:410:37:45

Another example is Sir Francis Willoughby,

0:37:450:37:47

who funds the construction of Wollaton Hall by exploiting

0:37:470:37:49

the coal mines on his manors, and almost bankrupts himself

0:37:490:37:53

in his pursuit of architectural magnificence.

0:37:530:37:55

Hardwick Hall itself is also the result of new money,

0:38:010:38:05

built by Bess of Hardwick, a lady who was born a mere commoner.

0:38:050:38:09

The architecture of these great houses signifies a profound

0:38:130:38:16

change in social attitude,

0:38:160:38:18

a new-found confidence that was lacking when the castles

0:38:180:38:21

of the nobility were built.

0:38:210:38:23

The castle of a medieval knight was designed primarily for defence,

0:38:260:38:29

with thick stone walls and small windows

0:38:290:38:32

which kept out attackers,

0:38:320:38:33

but they also kept out light.

0:38:330:38:35

The house of an Elizabethan courtier, in contrast,

0:38:350:38:38

is all about seeing and being seen.

0:38:380:38:41

This is even reflected in the very layout of the building.

0:38:450:38:48

For the first time, you'll find grand houses are built

0:38:480:38:52

without a central courtyard.

0:38:520:38:54

They look outward, not inward.

0:38:540:38:56

In the Long Gallery, which is SO long

0:39:000:39:03

it is often used for casual strolls in poor weather,

0:39:030:39:06

you'll find many portraits of the Queen and other great figures -

0:39:060:39:10

a clear announcement that your host is well connected.

0:39:100:39:13

Every detail of a great house is designed to demonstrate

0:39:170:39:20

the wealth and sophistication of its owner.

0:39:200:39:23

But this need to show off can have both positive

0:39:230:39:25

and negative consequences.

0:39:250:39:27

The positive ones are obvious - national as well as local prestige,

0:39:270:39:31

perhaps leading to a position at court.

0:39:310:39:33

The negative ones are the sheer expense -

0:39:330:39:36

the cost of building the house in the first place,

0:39:360:39:39

of equipping it and maintaining all the servants.

0:39:390:39:41

Ultimately, success might lead to the privilege -

0:39:410:39:44

the financially ruinous privilege -

0:39:440:39:47

of entertaining the Queen herself.

0:39:470:39:49

When the Queen pays a visit to the Cambridgeshire home

0:39:550:39:58

of Lord North in 1577,

0:39:580:40:00

she arrives accompanied

0:40:000:40:02

by about 2,000 people.

0:40:020:40:04

The total cost of the two day visit

0:40:040:40:07

is £642, four shillings and tuppence.

0:40:070:40:10

And this doesn't include a present for the Queen of a jewel worth £120.

0:40:100:40:16

Lord North's expenses include decorating the rooms,

0:40:160:40:19

putting up a temporary banqueting house,

0:40:190:40:22

and building several temporary kitchens.

0:40:220:40:24

There are candles and torches to buy,

0:40:240:40:27

and extra pewterware

0:40:270:40:28

must be hired from London.

0:40:280:40:30

Just doing the dishes costs the equivalent of

0:40:300:40:33

a worker's wages for three months.

0:40:330:40:36

To give you an idea of the scale of preparation required,

0:40:370:40:40

just take a look at the grocery list.

0:40:400:40:42

..made into pasties.

0:40:480:40:49

And so the list goes on.

0:40:550:40:57

And when you consider that a single cow is the equivalent

0:40:570:41:00

of an average worker's wages for six months,

0:41:000:41:03

then you can see that a royal visit is a mixed blessing

0:41:030:41:05

for the host who has to foot the bill.

0:41:050:41:08

Vegetables and roots are relegated to a mere footnote,

0:41:110:41:14

and while you may find apples, cherries and plums on the table,

0:41:140:41:18

you might also find that that is exactly where they stay.

0:41:180:41:21

In his hugely influential book,

0:41:230:41:25

the Castel of Helth, Sir Thomas Elyot explains.

0:41:250:41:29

"All fruits are noyful to man and do engender ill humours."

0:41:290:41:35

Clearly, there may be little to tempt you if you're a vegetarian.

0:41:360:41:41

Note that, whoever you are, and however much money you have,

0:41:410:41:44

you won't always be able to eat meat just when you fancy it.

0:41:440:41:47

Even in the house of a nobleman,

0:41:470:41:49

if you tuck into a beef pie or a venison pasty on a fish day,

0:41:490:41:53

you risk a hefty fine or a spell in the stocks.

0:41:530:41:56

And to wash all this food down?

0:41:570:41:59

As you've seen, water is far too risky.

0:41:590:42:02

Besides, Elizabethans prefer something a little stronger.

0:42:020:42:06

In just two days, Lord North's household

0:42:160:42:19

and the Royal Court get through

0:42:190:42:21

2,500 gallons of beer,

0:42:210:42:23

but not much of it is drunk by the aristocrats.

0:42:230:42:26

Wine serves as a status symbol,

0:42:390:42:41

especially as it has to be imported through London or Bristol,

0:42:410:42:46

and then transported around the country at great cost.

0:42:460:42:50

Even so, Lord North's vintners order

0:42:500:42:53

runs to six gallons of hippocras, which is a spiced wine,

0:42:530:42:56

20 gallons of sack,

0:42:560:42:58

63 gallons of white wine

0:42:580:43:01

and 378 gallons of claret.

0:43:010:43:04

For two days.

0:43:040:43:05

Naturally, status dictates where you will sit.

0:43:130:43:16

Depending on your place in the hierarchy, you may not even dine in

0:43:160:43:19

the same room as the Queen,

0:43:190:43:21

but have to settle for a place in the hall.

0:43:210:43:24

In any case, you will need to learn a little Elizabethan etiquette,

0:43:240:43:28

and the Boke of Nurture or Schoole of Good Manners by Hugh Rhodes

0:43:280:43:32

is a reliable guide to polite behaviour.

0:43:320:43:35

Many rules of the table seem like common sense to us -

0:43:370:43:39

wash your hands before you partake,

0:43:390:43:41

don't eat before your social superiors

0:43:410:43:44

and if you do need to spit or blow your nose,

0:43:440:43:46

don't do it across the table -

0:43:460:43:48

tread it out discretely on the floor.

0:43:480:43:50

But other, more general matters of courtesy

0:43:500:43:53

might catch you off your guard.

0:43:530:43:55

For example, it is customary to take your hat off

0:43:550:43:57

when somebody urinates in your company.

0:43:570:44:00

Servants are even expected to doff their caps

0:44:000:44:03

when their master's horse passes water in the street.

0:44:030:44:06

As the feast draws to a close, the dances begin,

0:44:090:44:12

and it's time to join the Queen.

0:44:120:44:16

A gentleman who wishes to ask a lady to dance should

0:44:160:44:18

take off his hat with his left hand, and offer his right to lead her out.

0:44:180:44:22

Ladies may ask gentlemen to dance.

0:44:230:44:25

And note that it is bad manners to refuse.

0:44:250:44:27

Increasingly, the fashion is for faster,

0:44:310:44:34

more modern dances such as a galliard.

0:44:340:44:38

For this, the couple often separate,

0:44:380:44:40

so they can each show off their dancing skills with hops,

0:44:400:44:43

half-steps, fast steps, twists, side-steps and leaps.

0:44:430:44:47

I suggest you take lessons - it's not something you can improvise!

0:44:480:44:52

The Queen herself dances galliards to keep fit,

0:44:530:44:57

but probably not a variation called "la volta",

0:44:570:45:01

where the gentleman lifts the lady by placing his left hand on her far hip

0:45:010:45:05

and his right hand at the bottom of her corset, between her legs.

0:45:050:45:09

Naturally, such vulgar displays of intimacy do not go down well

0:45:110:45:15

with Puritans like Philip Stubbes.

0:45:150:45:17

If you are worried about embarrassing yourself in front

0:45:380:45:40

of a great lord or lady, spare a thought for the Earl of Oxford.

0:45:400:45:44

One day, when bowing down in front of the Queen, he breaks wind.

0:45:440:45:48

Mortified, he leaves court immediately

0:45:480:45:50

and doesn't return for seven years.

0:45:500:45:52

When he finally does meet the Queen again, she greets him

0:45:520:45:55

with the words, "My lord, I had quite forgotten the fart."

0:45:550:45:58

The Queen may well have a sense of humour,

0:46:020:46:05

but you cross her at your peril.

0:46:050:46:09

With such luxury and privilege at your disposal,

0:46:090:46:12

you may think you have it made, but beware.

0:46:120:46:17

With a few careless words,

0:46:170:46:19

all this could be lost, along with your life.

0:46:190:46:21

While you are busy ingratiating yourself in the presence

0:46:280:46:32

of royalty, your servants may be enjoying

0:46:320:46:34

the company of strangers at a nearby inn or tavern.

0:46:340:46:38

Which is fine, except there is more to worry about here than

0:46:380:46:42

just daylight robbery or a dodgy pint of ale.

0:46:420:46:44

While your servants may believe they are just having a casual chat

0:46:440:46:48

with their newly made acquaintances, perhaps mentioning your name,

0:46:480:46:51

their words may soon find their way back to the Queen's secretary,

0:46:510:46:55

courtesy of his spy network.

0:46:550:46:57

As a member of society's elite,

0:47:140:47:16

careless words are your Achilles heel.

0:47:160:47:19

There are infiltrators everywhere, even in your own household,

0:47:190:47:23

eavesdropping on your every word

0:47:230:47:25

and reporting back to the Queen's chief advisor, Sir William Cecil.

0:47:250:47:30

When Sir Francis Walsingham becomes the Queen's spymaster in 1573,

0:47:300:47:35

this network spreads throughout England, Europe

0:47:350:47:38

and even as far afield as Turkey.

0:47:380:47:40

What are they listening for?

0:47:420:47:44

Any hint of treason, disloyalty or sedition.

0:47:440:47:49

Now, most of us enjoy a good grumble,

0:47:490:47:51

especially over a drink or two.

0:47:510:47:52

But the spy's task is to report all statements of disloyalty

0:47:520:47:56

and disaffection to the authorities.

0:47:560:47:58

Thus the stakes are very high.

0:47:580:48:00

In 1587 a smith in Hatfield Peverel is sentenced to death

0:48:000:48:04

and hanged just for saying that King Edward VI is still alive.

0:48:040:48:08

But why go to such lengths? Why the paranoia?

0:48:080:48:11

It's because the Queen has no shortage of enemies.

0:48:140:48:17

There are those who despise her on religious grounds,

0:48:210:48:26

especially certain Northerners, who actively seek rebellion.

0:48:260:48:30

Adversaries from overseas.

0:48:310:48:34

MPs who feel threatened by her.

0:48:360:48:38

But basically they all fall into two groups - Puritans and Catholics.

0:48:410:48:46

Without a doubt, the most feared group is the Catholics.

0:48:460:48:49

Whereas the Puritans represent a merely religious challenge,

0:48:490:48:52

the Catholics carry the additional threats of invasion by Spain

0:48:520:48:55

and the assassination of the Queen so she can be replaced

0:48:550:48:58

on the throne by her Catholic cousin, Mary Queen of Scots.

0:48:580:49:01

One of our modern assumptions is that at the very moment

0:49:050:49:08

Elizabeth becomes Queen in 1558,

0:49:080:49:11

England suddenly ceases to be a Catholic territory, and that's that.

0:49:110:49:16

During the early part of her reign, such matters are far

0:49:160:49:18

from certain, and yet you may find yourself forced to choose sides.

0:49:180:49:23

But picking the winning team is easier said than done.

0:49:230:49:26

In the 1580s there is an attempt on the Queen's life almost every year.

0:49:260:49:29

If just one of these were to prove successful,

0:49:290:49:32

Elizabethan England would come to a sudden close.

0:49:320:49:35

One of these schemes in particular shows the lengths to which

0:49:400:49:43

plotters will go,

0:49:430:49:44

and the effectiveness of this Elizabethan secret service.

0:49:440:49:49

In 1586, a group of conspirators led by a young Catholic gentleman

0:49:490:49:54

called Anthony Babington hatch a plot to kill the Queen.

0:49:540:49:57

Their plan is to assassinate her and with the help of a

0:49:570:50:00

Spanish invasion, to put Mary Queen of Scots on the throne instead.

0:50:000:50:05

Babington smuggles coded letters in and out of Mary's prison,

0:50:050:50:08

using waterproof wallets inside ale barrels.

0:50:080:50:11

Walsingham's spies intercept these letters and break the code,

0:50:110:50:16

but they don't raise the alarm immediately.

0:50:160:50:18

Instead they put the letters back in the barrels,

0:50:180:50:20

so that Babington and his friends don't realise the game is up.

0:50:200:50:24

It's a brilliant move.

0:50:240:50:26

Not only do the conspirators incriminate themselves further,

0:50:260:50:29

they also unwittingly deliver proof to Walsingham

0:50:290:50:32

that Mary herself is complicit.

0:50:320:50:35

Eventually, no fewer than 14 of the conspirators are caught.

0:50:350:50:39

They are sentenced to death and so is the Scottish queen.

0:50:390:50:42

Assassination plots and treason are mainly of concern to you,

0:50:470:50:51

the cream of society.

0:50:510:50:52

The poor are far too busy simply trying to survive.

0:50:520:50:55

It follows, therefore, that such treachery should be dealt with

0:50:590:51:03

by a suitably superior form of justice.

0:51:030:51:05

Star Chamber is an elite court,

0:51:080:51:11

made up of members of the Privy Council.

0:51:110:51:13

So called because it meets in the Star Chamber

0:51:130:51:15

in the Palace of Westminster.

0:51:150:51:17

The mere mention of its name is enough to strike fear into the heart

0:51:170:51:20

and you'd better pray you are never summoned to appear before it.

0:51:200:51:24

Star Chamber does not have to abide by the legal system

0:51:270:51:30

when judging you.

0:51:300:51:31

It can proceed on rumour alone.

0:51:310:51:34

And there is no jury - every single councillor present is a judge.

0:51:340:51:39

Worse still, they can punish you by just about any means

0:51:390:51:42

they see fit - imprisonment in the Tower, whipping or branding,

0:51:420:51:47

cutting off your ears or hands or slitting your nose.

0:51:470:51:50

For many people, the term "medieval" is practically a byword for torture.

0:51:570:52:02

But in fact, English medieval kings almost never engaged in this

0:52:020:52:06

form of brutality.

0:52:060:52:08

It is the Elizabethans who pioneered state-authorised torture.

0:52:080:52:12

So if it is decided that YOU need a spot of attitude adjustment,

0:52:150:52:20

what exactly can you expect to endure?

0:52:200:52:22

A first-hand account by English Catholic Edward Rishton

0:52:240:52:28

lists no fewer than seven separate methods of torture,

0:52:280:52:31

from incarceration in a tiny dungeon too small to stand up in,

0:52:310:52:35

to a stretch on the dreaded rack.

0:52:350:52:38

Father John Gerard, one of the very few Jesuits

0:52:400:52:43

to survive being tortured, is taken to the Tower in 1597.

0:52:430:52:47

He describes in horrifying detail what it is like to have

0:52:470:52:51

iron rings fastened around his wrists, to be hoisted on chains

0:52:510:52:55

and suspended by his arms for hours.

0:52:550:52:57

He then falls unconscious due to the unbearable pain

0:53:180:53:21

and is lowered to the ground until he comes to,

0:53:210:53:24

just for the whole process to begin again.

0:53:240:53:27

Even if, like Father Gerard, you DO survive your ordeal,

0:53:390:53:43

chances are this is only the appetiser.

0:53:430:53:46

If you find yourself being escorted across London

0:53:500:53:52

at Her Majesty's pleasure, then the main course is still to come,

0:53:520:53:56

served up with relish by the executioner.

0:53:560:53:59

Public executions are a means of demonstrating government power

0:54:050:54:08

and social control - as well as removing some enemies of the state.

0:54:080:54:12

For the masses, they are also hugely popular

0:54:120:54:15

as forms of entertainment.

0:54:150:54:17

The most common method of dispatching the guilty is

0:54:170:54:20

a simple hanging, the standard punishment

0:54:200:54:23

for everything from theft to witchcraft.

0:54:230:54:26

As a nobleman you might be able to avoid this by petitioning

0:54:300:54:33

the Queen, to allow you to have your head cut off instead.

0:54:330:54:37

But these methods of execution are positively humane

0:54:390:54:43

compared to the one reserved for traitors.

0:54:430:54:46

The unbelievably grisly sight of someone being

0:54:470:54:50

hanged, drawn and quartered is arguably the most infamous

0:54:500:54:53

and graphic demonstration of the appetite for cruelty.

0:54:530:54:56

To the delight of a cheering crowd, the convicted traitor

0:54:560:54:59

is drawn to the gallows on a hurdle, which is a kind of sledge.

0:54:590:55:03

He is then hanged until his face turns purple.

0:55:030:55:05

But before he dies, he is cut down

0:55:050:55:08

and the next stage of the ordeal begins.

0:55:080:55:11

Still alive, his intestines are cut out,

0:55:110:55:14

but his major tubes are sewn up, so he can witness his own entrails

0:55:140:55:18

being burned on a specially prepared fire in front of him.

0:55:180:55:21

Finally, his head is cut off and sent to London Bridge,

0:55:210:55:26

and the rest of his body is cut into quarters,

0:55:260:55:28

each one with a limb still attached.

0:55:280:55:30

This is the fate that awaits the 14 conspirators

0:55:350:55:37

foiled by the Queen's network of spies.

0:55:370:55:40

Babington and six others are dispatched in this horrific manner.

0:55:420:55:46

But their screams of agony are so terrible

0:55:480:55:51

that the crowd eventually starts to sympathise with them.

0:55:510:55:54

When word of this is sent to the Queen,

0:55:540:55:56

she demonstrates her mercy by allowing the remaining seven

0:55:560:55:59

to be hanged fully to death before their intestines are removed.

0:55:590:56:03

These executions serve as a stark reminder that at a moment's notice,

0:56:070:56:11

even the most privileged may lose their riches,

0:56:110:56:14

their power and their lives.

0:56:140:56:16

The Queen's position is equally uncertain.

0:56:170:56:20

If just one of the plots against her succeeds,

0:56:200:56:23

it will be her head on the block.

0:56:230:56:25

And remember that all the wealthy are vulnerable to such a fate,

0:56:300:56:33

whoever you are and wherever you come from.

0:56:330:56:36

For the rich and the powerful, nothing in life is certain.

0:56:460:56:50

As we have seen, more and more men are making their own fortunes.

0:56:500:56:53

Society is changing.

0:56:530:56:55

New wealth is being created,

0:56:550:56:57

and with it come new opportunities for success and status.

0:56:570:57:00

As your stay among the wealthy draws to a close, you may come to realise

0:57:030:57:07

that what you are witnessing around you

0:57:070:57:09

are the first small steps towards

0:57:090:57:11

the freedoms and opportunities that we all enjoy today.

0:57:110:57:15

For the first time, it is possible for someone outside

0:57:170:57:20

the ranks of the nobility to rise to the top of society

0:57:200:57:23

through enterprise and endeavour

0:57:230:57:26

rather than as a consequence of birth.

0:57:260:57:28

These social changes go hand in hand with progress in science,

0:57:310:57:35

exploration, literature and the arts,

0:57:350:57:37

and these too find new consumers and new producers.

0:57:370:57:41

The aspiring middle classes have arrived.

0:57:410:57:44

Next time, you'll join craftsmen, architects and merchants

0:57:480:57:51

striving to forge a better, more prosperous future.

0:57:510:57:55

You'll also meet the scientists, writers and explorers

0:57:560:58:00

whose ideas and achievements

0:58:000:58:02

have made them household names to this day.

0:58:020:58:04

What they all share is a desire to better their lives.

0:58:060:58:09

And through their success they change the world.

0:58:110:58:14

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