Cumbria Glorious Gardens from Above


Cumbria

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Britain has some of the finest gardens anywhere in the world.

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For me, it's about getting in amongst the wonderful plants

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that flourish in this country

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and sharing the passion of the people who tend them.

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However, there is another way to enjoy a garden.

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And that's to get up above it.

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I love ballooning

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because you get to see the world below in a whole new light.

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From up here, you get a real sense of how the garden sits

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in the landscape, how the terrain and the climate

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has shaped it, and I want you to share that experience with me.

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This is a day that promises wonderful flying weather

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and a chance to see one of Britain's most picturesque counties.

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Today, we're in Cumbria,

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characterised with its magnificent mountains

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and sparkling lakes.

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The Lake District, with over 900 square miles of outstanding beauty,

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has Scafell Pike as its highest peak and Windermere as its longest lake.

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Cumbria is England's most northwesterly county.

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Air blowing in from the Irish Sea and England's highest mountains

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means that it has some of the highest rainfall in the country.

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And it's no stranger to water

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because it's surrounded by spectacular lakes

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and over 200 fell tops.

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And Cumbria has got some rather magnificent gardens.

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And I discover that one of them

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has the power to put a spring in a man's step.

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You put your profile down, you know, and up came Jean with a 91% match.

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I'm sure it's now up to 100% because she was a vegetarian then

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but she isn't now.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Things have changed a bit.

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But it's all because you come here, you see.

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Everything works when you come here.

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And I'll meet the wonderful volunteers whose dedication

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has transformed the gardens that were left to the people of Cumbria.

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Someone made me laugh and said, "It must be very competitive,

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"people in different beds."

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I said, "It's not competitive at all.

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"If the standard's high, it's because we don't want to let the side down."

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And they don't do things by halves up here.

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We'll learn about raw materials used by ingenious engineers

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to create these mighty structures.

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And we'll find out about the legacy left

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by one of our favourite children's authors.

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At the end of her life, Beatrix had amassed 14 farms

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and over 4,000 acres of countryside,

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and this was an amazing legacy to leave to the nation.

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The rainfall might be challenging to gardeners,

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but this county is blessed with some truly-inspiring gardens.

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Like this one, glorious Levens Hall.

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The eight acres of Levens Hall lie 20 miles from the coast,

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in Cumbria's South Lakeland.

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From in the air, you can see Levens Hall sitting as it has

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for over three centuries.

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It's moved on but it's still the same garden as it was

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when it was created but, still,

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the level of horticulture that's very exciting.

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There've been families living at Levens Hall since the 13th century

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but the house as we see it now was created in 1580,

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and the gardens were laid out at the end of the 17th century.

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As you approach from the south, you come to a tree-shaded walk

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called the Wilderness, and then you're into the Fountain Garden.

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It was reinstated in 1994,

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but it's based on the original 1690 design.

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Opposite is the grassy square of the Bowling Green,

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where 18th-century gentlemen did indeed play bowls,

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and the game is still played on it today.

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Emanating out of the centre of this southern part of the garden

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is the grand beech hedge.

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It's 500 feet long and offers a quiet oasis of green calm

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amongst the colourful and busy borders.

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To the east of the house lies what is perhaps

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Levens Hall garden's most exuberant and playful feature,

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the Topiary Garden.

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Those magnificent topiary pieces dominating that garden,

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making it one of the most wildest, zappiest gardens in the country

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and, for me, it's very, very exciting.

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Levens Hall, a magical place where you pass through a doorway

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and the eruption of fun.

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It's like Alice In Wonderland, the Mad Hatter's Tea Party.

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Great shapes, great fun, great horticulture, all in one garden.

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Gardeners at Levens Hall have had so much fun working here,

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they hardly ever leave.

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In over 300 years, there's only ever been ten head gardeners.

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And the latest, Chris Crowder, has been here for nearly three decades.

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He's hard at work in the orchard.

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-Hi, Chris.

-Oh, hello.

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-Nice to see you.

-Hi.

-Hi, what you up to?

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-Planting some bulbs today.

-OK, what you putting?

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Underneath all these fruit trees in this orchard we've got tulips.

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-Right, can I give you a hand?

-Yeah, please.

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We put the last lot in about ten years ago,

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and what with voles and we get loads of pheasants in the winter

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digging them up and eating them, so every decade or so,

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it's time to top them up a little.

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Apeldoorn, in this case, a bright red.

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Quite a vigorous one, which it needs to be,

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to keep up with growing in this grass.

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So, why are you putting in tulips?

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I would have thought, you know, nice daffs.

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The daffs in drifts look nice in an orchard or wilder area,

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but here it's quite formal. It's in the centre of the garden

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so, for formal effect, we thought tulips would be the business.

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It's quite a hit through here when it's flowering stage,

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in about May time.

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Levens has a tradition of planting tulips in this formal way,

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and these colourful flowers have a fascinating history.

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Originally, the tulip was a wild flower,

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growing across the Middle East and Central Asia.

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Its cultivation began over 1,000 years ago

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in Persia and Turkey.

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In the 16th century, they were introduced into the Netherlands

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and became all the rage.

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Such was the demand that the roaring trade in bulbs

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offered great financial rewards.

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This period became known as "tulip mania".

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In 1635, one bulb sold for 2,500 florins,

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more than 16 times the average yearly salary.

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At today's wage levels, that would equate to nearly £400,000.

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It wasn't to last.

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The market crashed suddenly in 1637, leaving some investors penniless.

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Despite this, tulips never lost their popularity.

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With thousands of varieties in swathes of glorious colour,

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they're a real favourite.

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They're hardy and easy to grow.

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They work well in pots

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and can provide a real focal point in a garden.

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Plant them in November and enjoy them

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when their brilliantly-coloured blooms burst forth in the spring.

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So, how did you get into gardening?

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I've loved it since I was a lad.

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I used to help out on my dad's allotment when I was small,

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still at school.

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So the obvious thing was leaving as soon as I possibly could

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and getting a job with the local parks department.

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So, what's your vision for the garden?

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How are you going to take it forward?

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Well, we do, we move with it every year as much as we can.

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It's just to make it the best garden that we possibly can

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with the amount of people we've got to do it.

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It's a struggle, but we do develop a new piece every year

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within the old framework, and it's a series of pictures.

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That's how I sort of lay out the garden in my mind,

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or when we design new areas.

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It divides up into lovely compartments, if you like.

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There's plenty of hedges to the garden, so it's keeping each bit

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separate and different from the rest and being a wow at every turn.

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Yeah, cos I tend to think of it as, you know,

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you've got the topiary, the orchard, the Fountain Garden, the hedges,

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you've got the veg.

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It's a great sense of adventure wandering through.

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Yeah, it's a series of wows or photo opportunities or big hits.

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Lead one to the next, yeah. That's how we're going.

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Well, it strikes me that you're doing all right.

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Oh, thank you, thank you.

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Do you have a favourite bit of the garden?

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Well, I don't know whether I do, actually.

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I like... The bit that has to be right, of course,

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is... I live in the garden. I have the gardener's house,

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-so the view out our kitchen window has to be right.

-Ah!

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After that, it's different areas come...peak at different times,

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so right through from Easter, through to October.

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So, what's the biggest job you have to do?

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Well, in this place, it's topiary and hedges.

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We seem to have miles of it or hundreds of them

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and it keeps us busy for about six months of the year,

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starting just round about now.

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I think I want to come and have a look and see what you're up to.

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-We'll finish this job later.

-Yeah.

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But let's go and have a look at the rest of the garden.

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The Topiary Garden at Levens Hall

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is the oldest part of the formal gardens.

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Some of the trees are 300 years old,

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but little has changed since they were planted

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and trained into shapes in the 1690s.

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Time to trim a bit of top topiary, then.

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Oh, well, if you show me how to do it and then I don't make a botch up.

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Well, I'm hoping that won't be the result.

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And, in a way, it's just very similar to doing a haircut.

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It's grown over the year and it's time to take all that growth off.

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Certainly on a shape that's established,

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we can see the line, and it's a question of slowly looking at it

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and trimming it back down to that line.

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Yes, well, you can do the top bits.

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I'll bring my ladder out later, yes.

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-So it's just following the line.

-Snipping them round.

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And my other top tip really is the one we've always used is

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to have a squirter with us because the shears gum up as you use them

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and, after a while, they're either too sticky to move

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or the blades are pressed apart

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and they're just not giving that sharp finish.

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-It's very satisfying...

-It is satisfying.

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..and, like any hand crafting, sculpting or painting, I suppose.

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But how many pieces have you got?

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Over 100. This one's a new one, actually.

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We've added to the burden of future generations by putting a few in.

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It's about 15 years old, that's all, and we plant them as tiny little

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hedging plants

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and then start to grow them up and out from there.

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-Right.

-And you can change the shape over time.

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They would all have started as cones, in the early days.

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When did topiary, you know, start?

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And how did it start? And where did it start from?

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It goes back to Roman times.

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Back in ancient Rome, it was box and there's actually documents

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and letters from those times, documenting fleets of ships

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-and hunting scenes.

-Right.

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And topiary, the word comes from 'topiarius', I think,

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-which was Latin for 'the garden slave'.

-Right.

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And the garden slave would have done all this.

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-Well, that's what...

-It doesn't change.

-...we are now.

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Yeah, so it has got a long, long history.

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It spread from Italy, across France,

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and the grand gardens would have had clipped forms,

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and it ended up in England.

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The high time for this fashion was in the 1690s,

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just when this garden was being set up.

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Levens was the height of fashion with its green sculptures

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clipped into bold silhouettes.

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It, and many gardens like it at the time,

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were THE place to be seen.

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The Dutch style was all the rage,

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with clipped greens set in a pattern of formal box-edged beds.

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But fashions change and, by the 1730s,

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many of these beautifully-manicured yew and box gardens

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were ripped out to make way for the new trend of natural landscaping.

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Capability Brown had a lot to answer for

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as open parkland became the next big thing.

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Topiary was not lost completely.

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The 1830s saw a revival,

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as people decided landscape

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had become old hat.

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The Victorians moved topiary on, as they did so many aspects

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of garden design and machinery, and so it continued to thrive.

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We British are known for our eccentricity

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and eagerness to give things a try.

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With guides available, showing what shapes could be achieved,

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anything was possible.

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Though, some efforts were more successful than others.

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Levens survived, and I'm hoping my efforts don't scupper things.

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So, what sort of tools did they use in the past?

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Well, we assume they were something like the shears we're using today.

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That would've been the way. Possibly, for rougher hedges,

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-it might have been a sickle just across the surface, like that.

-OK.

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Some sort of sharp blade.

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But we've now got the electric and the petrol ones to help us on our way

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and, of course, the access equipment. The higher they get,

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we now use scaffolding. It was ladders,

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-but scaffolding and hydraulic lifts for the top ones.

-Right, so

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-cherry pickers, things like that.

-Yeah.

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There's a great view from up there, sometimes.

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-I bet, yes, yeah.

-And, of course, the other handy tool

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we've got sometimes is a cane,

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and they're quite handy if you really want a flat edge, you can...

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If your cane's straight, anyway, you can hold it against a flat edge

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and just eye it up and see you're going in the right direction.

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But also, at the end, we like to give it a good flick off.

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Gets rid of all those prunings and clippings that'll turn brown later.

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Also, it flicks up the odd thing that'll...

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-That you've left.

-If you don't do it now,

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it'll blow out in a month's time and haunt you for the rest of the year.

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So it just shows us the last bits to clip off.

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So, how long does it take you? And how many people are involved?

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Well there's four of us work in the gardens but not all of us

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are on the hedges all the time.

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But, certainly, two people for the best part of six months, almost.

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It's from now till Christmas to do all the topiary

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and get that part of the garden put to bed,

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and what with hedges and stuff, it can drag on a little.

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We're happy to start, but we're even happier to finish

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-at the end of the season.

-I bet, yeah.

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And how quickly do you allow your apprentices to let rip?

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Um, it's a slow thing.

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We let them go on the rounder things, round the back first

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and, if they can master the art of doing amorphous blob-like shapes,

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we'll start them on a flat bit of hedge that nobody will see

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and if that goes well, they're on and away on the rest of the topiary.

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-Slowly, though.

-Yeah.

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Yeah, the more you do, the more you get into it.

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Well, I think that's not a bad job, actually.

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I think, together, we make a good team.

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-Shall we go and have a brew?

-I think it's well deserved, yes. Excellent.

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Gardening at this level is a painstaking process, it takes time.

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But the simple act of growing something can not only soothe

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a troubled mind, it can also help heal it.

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And that's exactly what's happening here at Growing Well.

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Since 2004, a crop-share scheme has been run from this six-acre farm

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outside Kendal and it provides local families with a weekly supply

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of seasonal vegetables.

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Hey, let's see if we can get these back in one piece.

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Many of the local volunteers who work on the farm

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have suffered mental-health problems,

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but have found gardening an important part of their recovery.

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Clairelouise Chapman of Growing Well explains.

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The thing about poor mental health is that many people

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don't feel valued.

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When you're feeling very low, it's all around that sense of worth

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and why am I here?

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This project offers a supportive environment for people

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looking to find a way through their problems.

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You come in and you work with us, you feel a valued part of the team.

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Growing is a continuous process, so that ability to plant a seed

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and, several months later, harvest from that seed,

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gives an amazing sense of continuity,

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and the growing process gives a reason to get out of bed

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and come and see what you've done

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and how that is growing,

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and it helps you grow within yourself, as well.

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Kevin has been coming here for a year.

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After his wife died,

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leaving him with their four children to bring up, he struggled to cope.

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Working in this way has helped him to feel positive about life again.

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Working here on a daily basis...

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..it has shown me light at the end of a tunnel.

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It's the fresh air.

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Um, there's a good bunch of people here you can have a chat with.

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If you've got a problem, you can speak to people.

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It keeps my mind occupied.

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Growing Well's a very special community, so it's not just the work,

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it's the fact that you're coming to us

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and you're being part of our community.

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Each day is different.

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You meet lots of different people with lots of different issues.

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You know, you can talk to each other about it and ask them

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how they're feeling that day,

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and some people like their own space,

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some people like to work on their own.

0:17:340:17:36

We know that people have very strong friendships that are formed

0:17:360:17:40

at Growing Well,

0:17:400:17:41

and we all take breaks together, we all eat together,

0:17:410:17:45

and that social inclusion is a really important aspect.

0:17:450:17:50

Mike was a teacher for many years,

0:17:500:17:52

but began to find the workload too much of a strain.

0:17:520:17:55

He wanted to make a change but didn't know which direction to take.

0:17:550:17:59

I started off coming cos I really wasn't well.

0:17:590:18:02

I was so poorly, I wasn't able to make any decisions.

0:18:020:18:06

And coming to Growing Well helped me with that,

0:18:060:18:08

and I felt rewarded for coming

0:18:080:18:10

and doing something which was completely different.

0:18:100:18:14

And the result of that,

0:18:140:18:15

I was able to make a decision about my teaching career

0:18:150:18:18

and to end it, because it wasn't going to get any better.

0:18:180:18:21

And that's what I did.

0:18:210:18:23

It's not just volunteers who benefit from working at Growing Well.

0:18:230:18:27

It's really lovely working at Growing Well

0:18:270:18:30

because you see change in people.

0:18:300:18:32

You see people who start and just really lack that confidence.

0:18:320:18:37

Even seeing people being able to sit and have a cup of tea

0:18:370:18:41

and have a conversation with somebody else, is brilliant.

0:18:410:18:45

For Kevin and Mike,

0:18:450:18:46

it's fair to say that this project has been a lifeline.

0:18:460:18:49

It gives me a source of something to do.

0:18:490:18:53

It keeps me going.

0:18:530:18:55

I'm not quite sure where I would be without Growing Well.

0:18:550:18:58

I've always believed that gardens are a balm for the soul.

0:19:050:19:08

Even just walking amongst the glorious displays is a real tonic.

0:19:080:19:12

And I'm not the only one.

0:19:140:19:16

Lakeland lad, Len Hayton, has been inspired by Levens Hall

0:19:160:19:19

for nearly 20 years.

0:19:190:19:21

-I moved to Levens in 1997, actually...

-Right, OK.

0:19:210:19:25

..with my wife Joy,

0:19:250:19:28

and we used to come here for lunch

0:19:280:19:32

and we used to come into the garden

0:19:320:19:34

because it's lovely, really,

0:19:340:19:36

and when she was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer,

0:19:360:19:43

um, my niece suggested that we should have some photographs

0:19:430:19:49

-taken in the garden...

-Right.

-..at that time.

0:19:490:19:52

That was a very...

0:19:530:19:56

-It was...

-That obviously meant a lot to you.

0:19:580:20:01

-It did.

-An awful lot to you.

-It did indeed.

0:20:010:20:04

And it has done ever since.

0:20:040:20:06

-After she died, I used to come here and I felt welcome.

-Yeah.

0:20:060:20:10

I always felt welcome. And when you come into this garden,

0:20:100:20:13

it's as if you've stepped off the world into heaven.

0:20:130:20:16

It's like coming through the gate into heaven. It's absolutely lovely.

0:20:160:20:20

What do you mean by that?

0:20:200:20:21

You leave the mundane world, as it were, and all the problems outside

0:20:220:20:28

and you come in here and there's peace and there's quiet.

0:20:280:20:32

Gives me a feeling of tranquillity and, at the same time, inspiration.

0:20:320:20:37

Len's late wife, Joy, had worried about him being lonely,

0:20:370:20:40

so, after two and a half years as a widower,

0:20:400:20:43

he tried his hand at internet dating.

0:20:430:20:46

You put your profile down, you know, and up came Jean with a 91% match.

0:20:460:20:51

-Eh.

-And, by God, that's been true and, I'll tell you,

0:20:510:20:54

the last four years have been bliss.

0:20:540:20:56

I'm sure it's now up to 100%, because she was a vegetarian then

0:20:560:21:00

but she isn't now.

0:21:000:21:02

SHE LAUGHS

0:21:020:21:04

Things have changed a bit. But it's all because you come here, you see.

0:21:040:21:08

Everything works when you come here.

0:21:080:21:10

Jean is just as happy here as Joy and I were happy here. It's lovely.

0:21:150:21:20

-Gardens are about cultivation.

-Yeah.

0:21:200:21:23

It's not just cultivating plants, it's cultivating people.

0:21:230:21:27

Probably right about that.

0:21:270:21:28

It certainly helped me through illness and everything,

0:21:280:21:31

and this garden has had a lot to do with it.

0:21:310:21:34

It's wonderful to hear about the way this magnificent garden

0:21:410:21:45

has helped Len through darker days.

0:21:450:21:47

Levens Hall is a special place for me too,

0:21:470:21:49

and I'd like to leave something behind

0:21:490:21:51

as a thanks for all the magic.

0:21:510:21:53

Local artist Libby Edmondson

0:21:560:21:58

has been coming to Levens Hall for years.

0:21:580:22:00

But she first caught a tantalising glimpse of the garden

0:22:000:22:03

during family holidays to the Lake District.

0:22:030:22:07

We used to pass Levens Hall. I could see this wonderful

0:22:070:22:12

place behind a very big wall.

0:22:120:22:15

I could see the topiary peeping over the top, which was a bit enticing.

0:22:150:22:21

So I always promised myself that I would, someday, go in

0:22:210:22:26

and have a proper look at it,

0:22:260:22:28

which I did as soon as we moved here, and...

0:22:280:22:32

wow.

0:22:320:22:34

Like me, Libby thinks the garden is a veritable Wonderland.

0:22:340:22:39

It was like being Alice.

0:22:390:22:41

You walk in a small gateway

0:22:410:22:43

and you have this vista of strange shapes and trees

0:22:430:22:50

you haven't seen before.

0:22:500:22:51

I could see some of those topiaries getting up

0:22:510:22:54

and having a little dance round the lawn when nobody was looking,

0:22:540:22:57

because they...a lot of them have skirts.

0:22:570:23:00

SHE LAUGHS

0:23:020:23:03

The garden has clearly left a lasting impression.

0:23:030:23:07

It's influenced my art because it has this fantasy feeling.

0:23:070:23:14

It just makes me feel good.

0:23:140:23:16

The beauty and grandeur of glorious Lakeland has appealed to artists

0:23:240:23:28

throughout history.

0:23:280:23:29

Author William Wordsworth and painters JMW Turner

0:23:320:23:35

and Edward Burne-Jones all found inspiration here.

0:23:350:23:39

But there's one very famous devotee of this landscape,

0:23:420:23:45

one who dedicated much of her life and fortune

0:23:450:23:48

to preserving it for generations to come.

0:23:480:23:50

Beatrix Potter is perhaps the 20th century's

0:23:540:23:56

most-adored children's writer,

0:23:560:23:59

and her tales of Peter Rabbit and other charming characters

0:23:590:24:02

have enchanted children for over 100 years.

0:24:020:24:05

But she has another legacy, and it's this...

0:24:060:24:10

mile after wonderful mile of stunning Lake District scenery.

0:24:100:24:15

Liz MacFarlane is house manager at Hill Top,

0:24:150:24:18

Beatrix Potter's Lakeland property.

0:24:180:24:22

Beatrix Potter first stayed in this area when she was 16.

0:24:220:24:25

Her family came to the Lake District on holiday,

0:24:250:24:29

and it was during these long summer holidays that she was able to enjoy

0:24:290:24:32

all that the Lake District had to offer.

0:24:320:24:34

What Beatrix really loved about this landscape

0:24:390:24:42

was the freedom that it gave her

0:24:420:24:44

and what it provided her with in terms of inspiration.

0:24:440:24:47

So she was able to draw the landscape,

0:24:470:24:49

she was able to study the wildlife,

0:24:490:24:51

the flora, the fungi, collect fossils and everything.

0:24:510:24:55

Of course, she would commit to paper, drawing, painting and sketching.

0:24:550:24:59

It was on this holiday that Potter met a man

0:25:010:25:04

who was to have a profound effect on her life

0:25:040:25:06

and on the British countryside.

0:25:060:25:09

When she was just 16, Beatrix met Canon Rawnsley,

0:25:090:25:12

who was one of the three founders of the National Trust

0:25:120:25:15

and he really instilled in her

0:25:150:25:17

that need to protect the way of life here, the fact that that way of life

0:25:170:25:21

was in danger, and something needed to be done

0:25:210:25:24

in order to protect

0:25:240:25:25

the farming and the income that was being generated from the land.

0:25:250:25:30

Canon Rawnsley's views on preserving the natural beauty

0:25:320:25:35

of the Lake District had a lasting effect on Potter.

0:25:350:25:38

He campaigned against the construction of roads

0:25:380:25:41

over the Lakeland passes

0:25:410:25:42

and promoted sign-posted footpaths.

0:25:420:25:45

He was also the first published author she'd ever met,

0:25:450:25:48

and later encouraged her to publish her first book.

0:25:480:25:52

She, of course, became a literary sensation.

0:25:520:25:55

Well, with the money from the first four little books,

0:25:560:25:59

Beatrix was able to purchase Hill Top, the farm here,

0:25:590:26:03

and that was the first of many land purchases and farms in this area.

0:26:030:26:08

Potter bought Hill Top in 1905,

0:26:080:26:10

and she used it and the surrounding countryside as inspiration

0:26:100:26:14

for many of her subsequent books.

0:26:140:26:16

But she was also becoming much more focused on her life

0:26:170:26:20

as a countrywoman.

0:26:200:26:21

She wanted to preserve the old ways of life of the fell farmers,

0:26:210:26:25

and protect the landscape.

0:26:250:26:26

The continued success of the little books enabled Beatrix

0:26:270:26:31

to carry on buying land and farms,

0:26:310:26:33

and when she married a local solicitor, William Heelis,

0:26:330:26:37

at the age of 47, she was really

0:26:370:26:40

concentrating on her farming and the books were a means to an end.

0:26:400:26:44

They were giving her the means to buy these farms and landscapes.

0:26:440:26:48

As a far-sighted benefactor,

0:26:490:26:51

Potter worked to protect the vulnerable landscape.

0:26:510:26:53

When she died in 1943,

0:26:530:26:56

she bequeathed to the nation all the farms and farmland she'd acquired.

0:26:560:27:00

At the end of her life, Beatrix had amassed 14 farms

0:27:020:27:06

and over 4,000 acres of countryside,

0:27:060:27:09

and this was an amazing legacy to leave to the National Trust

0:27:090:27:12

for the benefit of the nation.

0:27:120:27:13

Beatrix Potter was so captivated by this landscape

0:27:210:27:24

that she wanted to pass on what she'd preserved

0:27:240:27:26

so others could enjoy the beauty of her Lakeland farms.

0:27:260:27:30

And she wasn't the only one who was generous.

0:27:360:27:39

My next port of call was also left to the people of the area.

0:27:390:27:44

15 miles north of Levens Hall,

0:27:440:27:46

on the hillside over there, is another very spectacular

0:27:460:27:50

Cumbrian garden - Holehird,

0:27:500:27:52

and it's managed and run by volunteers,

0:27:520:27:55

showing just what can be achieved in the harsh landscapes of the Lakes.

0:27:550:28:00

Set in a mountainous spot, high above the northern end

0:28:060:28:09

of Lake Windermere, Holehird Gardens cover 17 acres.

0:28:090:28:13

The volunteers here are custodians of a garden that's expanded

0:28:150:28:19

since they took it on.

0:28:190:28:20

At the heart is the Walled Garden.

0:28:230:28:24

Once a kitchen garden for the original grand house,

0:28:240:28:27

its planting was mapped out in the 1980s to ensure that all sides,

0:28:270:28:32

north, east, south and west, are used to best effect.

0:28:320:28:36

The island beds in the centre provide year-round colour.

0:28:360:28:39

Presiding over it is the fellside, a wooded hill with rockeries

0:28:410:28:45

and specimen trees.

0:28:450:28:46

One of Holehird's six greenhouses is given over to alpine plants,

0:28:480:28:52

whose shoots need protection from Cumbria's wet weather.

0:28:520:28:56

Tumbling down the hillside is the Cascade and then the terrace.

0:28:560:29:01

The original owners of Holehird established the gardens here

0:29:010:29:04

in the late 19th century.

0:29:040:29:06

They flourished until the end of the Second World War.

0:29:060:29:09

But, after that, it became too expensive to maintain them

0:29:090:29:12

and, for nearly 25 years,

0:29:120:29:14

the garden laid abandoned and unloved.

0:29:140:29:18

Since the late 1960s,

0:29:180:29:20

a growing band of local volunteers has set about

0:29:200:29:22

reclaiming this gem of a garden.

0:29:220:29:25

Shelagh Newman is one of their number.

0:29:250:29:27

-Hello, Shelagh, how are you?

-Oh, hello, Christine.

0:29:300:29:32

-Good to see you back in Holehird again.

-Great to be here.

0:29:320:29:35

-What you up to?

-Well, you know how keen we are on our alpines

0:29:350:29:39

-here at Holehird.

-Yeah.

-Well,

0:29:390:29:41

-there's this bit that's been a bit neglected of late.

-Right.

0:29:410:29:43

This seems to have got a bit too big, Christine,

0:29:430:29:46

it's taking over the whole area

0:29:460:29:48

and I think at least some of it should go.

0:29:480:29:51

Shelagh's working with tufa.

0:29:510:29:53

This rock is formed as lime-rich water evaporates,

0:29:530:29:56

leaving behind a soft and porous calcium-rich limestone.

0:29:560:29:59

It's ideal for growing lime-loving plants.

0:30:000:30:03

It's light and easy to handle, and it absorbs and holds water.

0:30:030:30:08

When plants are grown in tufa,

0:30:080:30:09

they get a slow and steady release of moisture.

0:30:090:30:13

A lot of people don't realise that a tufa garden is light,

0:30:130:30:17

-so you can have this on places like balconies.

-Right.

0:30:170:30:20

-If you want a rock garden in the sky, you can.

-What a good idea.

0:30:200:30:23

The other thing that people say is, "I've only got a courtyard,

0:30:230:30:26

"I've no soil at all." It doesn't flipping well matter.

0:30:260:30:28

Get yourself a couple of lumps of tufa, plant it up

0:30:280:30:32

and you've got a garden. It's fantastic stuff, it's lovely.

0:30:320:30:35

I don't know what you think,

0:30:350:30:36

but it looks to me as if it could do with the odd new cushion plant

0:30:360:30:39

-to revitalise it.

-I think you've got a Saxi, so...

0:30:390:30:42

-Yeah, that looks rather a nice one.

-It does, yeah.

0:30:420:30:44

Well, that could go in there and then it will grow over that rock

0:30:440:30:47

and I think that'll be quite nice, but we'll need to make a hole.

0:30:470:30:50

-So, have you got a hammer and then...

-Yeah.

-..something

0:30:500:30:53

I can gouge this out with?

0:30:530:30:54

-And we've got a little spatula.

-Now, I don't know how you do this,

0:30:540:30:58

-but I tend to make the hole but keep the tufa dust.

-Right.

0:30:580:31:02

So have you got something like a cup or something like that...

0:31:020:31:05

-Yeah, yeah, yeah.

-..we can knock the old tufa dust into?

0:31:050:31:07

So if you can sort of...when I start getting stuff out.

0:31:070:31:10

Is that so that it sort of weans it into the space a bit?

0:31:100:31:14

There's two schools of thought involved with this.

0:31:140:31:16

There's the school of thought that says you take out a hole

0:31:160:31:18

around about two inches deep and about the same diameter

0:31:180:31:22

-and then you put in a gritty soil mixture.

-Right.

0:31:220:31:25

And then there's the school of thought that I tend to run with,

0:31:250:31:28

that you take the tufa out, then you put the tufa back.

0:31:280:31:31

-Right.

-Now, the reason for that is, in my opinion,

0:31:310:31:34

if you use a soil mixture,

0:31:340:31:36

you've got a different air concentration in the soil

0:31:360:31:39

-than you have in the tufa.

-Right.

0:31:390:31:41

And the plant can put its roots round the soil

0:31:410:31:44

-and never goes into the tufa.

-Right.

0:31:440:31:46

-So it can...

-Pot bound.

-It's pot bound

0:31:460:31:48

and the plants can dry out.

0:31:480:31:49

Whereas, if you put back what you've taken out,

0:31:490:31:51

the air is at the same concentration,

0:31:510:31:53

the plant establishes much quicker and it runs into the patent rock.

0:31:530:31:57

It's a jolly good tip, actually, I didn't know that.

0:31:570:31:59

I mean, the other thing that's fascinating about this stuff,

0:32:020:32:05

is that you can buy it from nurseries

0:32:050:32:08

but, when you buy it from nurseries,

0:32:080:32:10

it's often sold outside.

0:32:100:32:12

And, as you know, this is actually absorbent.

0:32:120:32:15

-Yeah, it's porous, isn't it?

-It's porous.

0:32:150:32:17

-So, when you buy it from outside, it contains water.

-Yes.

0:32:170:32:20

-It's sold by weight.

-Ah.

-So you're buying a lot of water.

0:32:200:32:24

It pays them to store it outside, really, doesn't it?

0:32:240:32:26

Well, some nurseries are more scrupulous than others

0:32:260:32:29

but occasionally you'll find it's quite wet,

0:32:290:32:31

and you're paying, literally, just for water.

0:32:310:32:33

If you go to an aquatic centre,

0:32:330:32:35

it's stored inside and it's dry,

0:32:350:32:39

so you get more for your dosh. And, being a tight Northerner,

0:32:390:32:42

you can guess where I go.

0:32:420:32:43

SHE LAUGHS

0:32:430:32:45

So, what made you come to Holehird?

0:32:450:32:46

Well, about 20 years ago, I retired early cos I was caring

0:32:460:32:51

for my mother,

0:32:510:32:52

and we'd just moved into a house with a much bigger garden.

0:32:520:32:56

So I thought I needed some advice on what to do,

0:32:560:32:58

and a friend told me that they were running an RHS course

0:32:580:33:03

up at Holehird.

0:33:030:33:04

-All right.

-And, for 18 months,

0:33:040:33:06

I did this, really, rather good RHS course

0:33:060:33:09

and then I realised there was actually a garden here

0:33:090:33:12

and you could volunteer at it.

0:33:120:33:14

I decided I would come and be a gardener here too...

0:33:140:33:17

-Wow!

-..and it's kept me learning.

0:33:170:33:19

Now, then, I'm going to knock this out...

0:33:190:33:22

but what I do is...

0:33:220:33:26

I'll take all this off.

0:33:260:33:27

If you wash this off.

0:33:270:33:29

So, you've just got a little bit of soil there,

0:33:320:33:36

-but predominantly roots...

-Right.

0:33:360:33:38

-..and then I'm going to put this tufa dust back...

-Right.

0:33:380:33:41

..so that it's at the same consistency as that tufa.

0:33:410:33:46

-And you wouldn't add anything else Christine, to that?

-No, I don't, no.

0:33:460:33:49

And that will establish, and in three years' time,

0:33:510:33:54

you'll have a beautiful mat that creeps over there and flowers,

0:33:540:33:59

and it will just literally mould itself into the rock.

0:33:590:34:03

We planted a Saxifraga, this one with a cushion-like habit,

0:34:030:34:08

but there are thousands of different alpines.

0:34:080:34:10

True alpines originate from high-altitude regions,

0:34:150:34:18

above the tree line, where there's good drainage and cold,

0:34:180:34:21

dry winters with high light levels.

0:34:210:34:23

In the wild, alpines spend their winters dormant.

0:34:250:34:28

They remain dry and protected from extreme temperatures

0:34:280:34:31

and cold winds by being covered with a blanket of snow.

0:34:310:34:34

The vast majority of plants sold as alpines

0:34:350:34:38

are easy to grow in most gardens,

0:34:380:34:40

and need only the minimum of care.

0:34:400:34:42

There are even drought-busting species.

0:34:430:34:46

Those from Southern Europe are ideal to plant

0:34:460:34:48

if our summers are getting drier and we face hosepipe bans.

0:34:480:34:52

And the beauty of alpines is that you can travel the world

0:34:520:34:55

without leaving your own garden.

0:34:550:34:57

So, Shelagh, what makes coming to Holehird so special for you?

0:34:590:35:02

-I think, as much as anything else, it's the people.

-Right.

0:35:020:35:05

It can be quite solitary if you're gardening on your own.

0:35:050:35:09

Maybe the neighbours are at work,

0:35:090:35:10

maybe you're in a country garden and you don't see anybody.

0:35:100:35:13

But, if you come here, you're gardening as a team

0:35:130:35:17

and, also, there's a sense here of ownership with the beds.

0:35:170:35:21

We get together, either as individuals or groups,

0:35:210:35:25

and look after our own bit of the garden.

0:35:250:35:27

And we don't just deadhead and weed,

0:35:270:35:30

we actually choose what we plant.

0:35:300:35:32

We have a budget where we can go out and buy our own plants,

0:35:320:35:36

and the only consideration is that don't plant a tree

0:35:360:35:41

or take one down without conferring with somebody else

0:35:410:35:45

cos that could impact on somebody else's bed.

0:35:450:35:48

But there's a lot of sense of ownership, so I think that

0:35:480:35:51

builds... It builds a good spirit,

0:35:510:35:53

that you belong to the place, really.

0:35:530:35:55

And what's fascinating is that, though you have this magical garden,

0:35:550:35:59

you've got an emphasis on labelling, but it's not in your face, is it?

0:35:590:36:04

Although we're not officially a botanical garden,

0:36:040:36:06

we actually do quite like to have our plants labelled

0:36:060:36:09

and we do find most of our visitors really appreciate that.

0:36:090:36:12

But do you know one of the things that I appreciate

0:36:120:36:15

so much in this garden,

0:36:150:36:16

is the level of expertise,

0:36:160:36:19

and this is a garden that is looked after and cared for with love.

0:36:190:36:24

Hmm. Oh, yes.

0:36:240:36:26

And it's love from gardeners that have not trained

0:36:260:36:29

but have spent their life in the university of gardening

0:36:290:36:33

and life and it's very, very special and it's always impressive.

0:36:330:36:38

But the one thing I always say,

0:36:380:36:39

and particularly when I'm bringing groups,

0:36:390:36:41

is, "Look at the standard they maintain."

0:36:410:36:45

And it's awesome and it's very, very impressive

0:36:450:36:48

and it's a phenomenal credit to you all.

0:36:480:36:50

-So just keep doing it.

-Thank you.

-You're doing it right.

0:36:500:36:53

Thank you very... Do you know, someone made me laugh.

0:36:530:36:56

A visitor that came round the garden

0:36:560:36:57

and said, "It must be very competitive,

0:36:570:37:00

"people in different beds."

0:37:000:37:02

I said, "It's not competitive at all.

0:37:020:37:04

"If the standard's high,

0:37:040:37:06

"it's because we don't want to let the side down."

0:37:060:37:09

And it's that, really.

0:37:090:37:10

It's community spirit, I think.

0:37:100:37:13

-And that's what makes it very special.

-Yes.

0:37:130:37:15

I'm sure that Shelagh and the rest of the determined volunteers

0:37:170:37:20

at Holehird will never let the side down.

0:37:200:37:23

They're hooked by its stunning setting

0:37:230:37:25

and the challenges of the terrain.

0:37:250:37:27

This mountainous landscape meant Cumbria remained pretty inaccessible

0:37:300:37:33

to all but the hardiest of travellers

0:37:330:37:35

until the middle of the 19th century.

0:37:350:37:37

All that changed when the railways began their march

0:37:380:37:41

across Northern England.

0:37:410:37:43

The crags and scree are evidence of what lies beneath.

0:37:440:37:47

Seams of limestone dating back more than 300 million years

0:37:470:37:51

crisscross the county.

0:37:510:37:52

This raw material was perfect for building the railway viaducts,

0:37:520:37:56

and the timeless nature of this stone

0:37:560:37:58

transformed the fortunes of the area.

0:37:580:38:00

But it had been exploited for hundreds of years.

0:38:010:38:04

Robert White, Senior Historic Environment Officer, explains.

0:38:040:38:08

Limestone's very much the landscape of this area.

0:38:080:38:12

Most of the field walls are made of limestone,

0:38:120:38:14

many of the farm buildings and houses are made of limestone.

0:38:140:38:17

You can see limestone in the bed of the streams.

0:38:170:38:19

But resourceful Victorian engineers had much more ambitious plans

0:38:200:38:24

for this useful construction material.

0:38:240:38:27

Hewn out of this limestone are these mighty feats of engineering.

0:38:280:38:33

The viaducts span the dales and gullies

0:38:330:38:35

to create the Settle-Carlisle Railway,

0:38:350:38:38

and have become part of the landscape.

0:38:380:38:40

The Victorian and Edwardian travelling public

0:38:400:38:43

took it to their hearts as they thundered through the countryside.

0:38:430:38:47

But the limestone didn't just provide building material.

0:38:470:38:50

In a highly-polished state, the stone was considered

0:38:500:38:53

beautifully decorative and became known as Dent marble.

0:38:530:38:57

Limestone's the major rock of Dentdale

0:38:570:39:00

and some of the beds of limestone, when cut and polished,

0:39:000:39:03

would look just like marble. They could take a shine.

0:39:030:39:06

It was making things like mantelpieces, memorials,

0:39:060:39:09

sometimes floors.

0:39:090:39:10

It was very popular in the Victorian period,

0:39:100:39:12

when Queen Victoria was in mourning for John Brown.

0:39:120:39:15

The buildings of the old marble works are now houses,

0:39:150:39:19

but it's still clear why this landscape was so bountiful.

0:39:190:39:23

There was unlimited limestone

0:39:230:39:24

and a plentiful water supply for powering the marble cutters.

0:39:240:39:28

Local farm hands would have made a few bob on the side

0:39:280:39:31

by putting in hours as quarrymen and marble workers.

0:39:310:39:35

One of the quarries was beneath this, the Dent Head Viaduct.

0:39:350:39:39

The railway had a double-edged effect on the industry.

0:39:390:39:42

It was much easier to take the finished products away by railway,

0:39:420:39:45

much easier than it would have been by horse and cart or packhorse,

0:39:450:39:49

but it also meant that lighter material was imported into the area.

0:39:490:39:52

True Italian marbles could come in.

0:39:520:39:54

And it had another impact.

0:39:540:39:56

Dent Head Viaduct is actually built on top of one of the major quarries.

0:39:560:40:00

Constructing the railway over the quarry meant that the quarry

0:40:000:40:04

had to cease production.

0:40:040:40:05

The quarry owner was compensated,

0:40:050:40:07

but a large part of the industry was no longer there.

0:40:070:40:09

The compensation may have gone some way towards softening the blow.

0:40:110:40:14

But a new taste for imported Italian marble

0:40:140:40:17

meant that Cumbrian Dent marble fell out of fashion.

0:40:170:40:20

It's peaceful here now,

0:40:230:40:24

but the mighty viaducts are lasting monuments

0:40:240:40:26

to those 19th-century engineers

0:40:260:40:29

and to the vital raw material that lay beneath.

0:40:290:40:32

Just as scene-stealing is the topiary at Levens Hall.

0:40:410:40:45

Designed to be picture perfect,

0:40:450:40:46

it's captured the heart and soul of Len,

0:40:460:40:49

and seen him through good and bad times.

0:40:490:40:52

It's brought life back.

0:40:520:40:54

It's like a rock, it has stability, like old England...

0:40:550:41:01

..and it's something that we should look after.

0:41:020:41:05

I can't say any more, really.

0:41:060:41:08

I can't think of anyone better than artist Libby,

0:41:110:41:14

who's been so inspired by Levens Hall,

0:41:140:41:16

to put some of these emotions onto canvas.

0:41:160:41:19

The gardens have touched so many people

0:41:190:41:22

and it's high time to pay tribute.

0:41:220:41:25

I think it calls for some celebratory Levens apple pie.

0:41:250:41:29

Well, look at this, nice little party.

0:41:300:41:33

I think I should have some of this.

0:41:330:41:35

-If you're good, you can have another piece.

-Can I?

0:41:350:41:37

-Right, is this local, then?

-It's local. It's come all the way

0:41:370:41:40

from the other side of the hedge. The apples, anyway.

0:41:400:41:42

-It's Levens' apples.

-Yeah, they're our apples. I believe so.

0:41:420:41:45

-Let's see what Levens' apples are like, then.

-Excellent.

0:41:450:41:47

Aye, it's not bad, you know. Aye.

0:41:470:41:50

You know, what surprises me, is how delicate these little pieces are.

0:41:500:41:54

I thought, up in the North, we had decent pieces.

0:41:540:41:56

-We've not started on that one, yet.

-No, but...

-Don't panic.

0:41:560:41:59

Well, I'm not doing but today's all been about pieces, hasn't it?

0:41:590:42:02

And not only pieces of pie but pieces of gardens.

0:42:020:42:06

What's come across is, for you, that this garden has framed

0:42:060:42:12

-elements of your life.

-Indeed, it has.

0:42:120:42:14

Some of them very spectacular and some of them very sad.

0:42:140:42:17

Indeed.

0:42:170:42:18

And, for Chris, you've also said

0:42:180:42:20

about how you want to manage the garden

0:42:200:42:23

as pictures to encapsulate different images for people.

0:42:230:42:27

And what we thought we'd like to do is ask Libby

0:42:270:42:31

to encapsulate the magic of Levens.

0:42:310:42:34

Ooh, look at that.

0:42:340:42:36

THEY APPLAUD That is fantastic, isn't it?

0:42:360:42:38

Absolutely lovely.

0:42:380:42:40

What a great idea.

0:42:400:42:42

Libby, that's an inspiration. It's fantastic.

0:42:420:42:45

Wild and fabulous.

0:42:450:42:46

Libby knows just how to capture the special magic

0:42:480:42:50

of this enchanting garden.

0:42:500:42:52

Her painting celebrates the hard work of all the gardeners

0:42:520:42:56

and the pleasure the garden gives.

0:42:560:42:58

It'll have pride of place in the teashop as a fitting

0:42:580:43:01

and lasting tribute.

0:43:010:43:02

Here in Cumbria, I've seen how the landscape draws people in

0:43:100:43:13

and stays in their heart.

0:43:130:43:15

Artists and writers and gardeners have, for centuries, been captivated

0:43:150:43:20

and inspired by this glorious land of lakes and mountains.

0:43:200:43:25

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