Episode 1 Fair Isle: Living on the Edge


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Fair Isle.

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Britain's most remote inhabited island.

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It is an extraordinary place to live.

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There are so many moments when you walk outside,

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or even stand in the window on a stormy day, and just say, "Wow".

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But life here is not for everyone.

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Scott, come. Come.

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There is no power at night.

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The weather never seems to stop.

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Until the snow goes, there's really no flights.

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This is the ferry information service for Fair Isle.

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Today, Thursday 3rd, there's no sailing. Thank you.

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It can be impossible to leave the island for weeks on end.

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There is no pub, and just one small shop.

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Splendid. OK.

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-Cheers.

-Bye.

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Every able-bodied adult holds down

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several jobs just to keep the island going.

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But its population is at a critical point.

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If we lose two or three more families,

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then the population crashes.

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And that would be utter disaster for a remote place like this.

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Once, almost 400 people lived here.

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Now, there are just 55.

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But a new couple are moving here.

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The first on Fair Isle for five years.

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The island needs them, and others like them, if it's going to survive.

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You can't want a better place to wash your car than this, really, can you?

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I never really imagined myself doing this as part

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of my way of life.

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But will they suit Fair Isle?

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And will Fair Isle suit them?

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Some people have come here to try and get away from life or whatever.

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But you needn't do that, because

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what happens here is that life is very much in your face, you know,

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so there's nowhere to hide.

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No place to hide!

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It's just an amazing place.

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And it's so small.

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It's so small. And in the middle of nowhere.

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Fair Isle is this very

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small island at the top of the United Kingdom.

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It is halfway between these two groups of islands called

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the Shetland Islands and the Orkney Islands.

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It is three miles long and 1.5 miles across.

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And it is Britain's most remote inhabited island.

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And it's our home.

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The National Trust for Scotland bought Fair Isle in 1954.

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But unlike most of their other properties,

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Fair Isle is actually inhabited.

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People live on the island as crofting farmers.

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They maintain the long tradition of the famous Fair Isle knitting

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patterns, and run all the essential services themselves.

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This is a working island.

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It's not a museum.

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It's a place where we live, and if we want anything doing here,

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we have to do it for ourselves.

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And that means that just two more pairs of hands

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would make a real difference.

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How do you feel about leaving the rope swing, Rachel?

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Sad.

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HE LAUGHS

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Last words for the rope swing?

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I love the rope swing.

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Shaun and Rachel could be exactly what Fair Isle needs.

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They are young, in their 30s, and both ex-military.

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They already know Fair Isle, and now they're packing to return.

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This time as permanent residents.

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Shaun and I have been together about ten months,

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which I know isn't that long.

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People think,

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"Wow, what a big thing to try and do," but, you know...

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We both met working at the bird observatory on Fair Isle

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last year. Shaun was a domestic assistant, I was assistant cook.

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Saw dashing me at the bar.

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That was it.

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-"Who's that gorgeous chap?"

-Yeah.

-A bit bald, but...

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I like that, though.

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-INTERVIEWER:

-Are you married?

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No. Not yet.

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I've never been married before.

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And kind of, you know, time is getting on.

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I'd... You know, I'd like to experience it once in my life.

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-Before it gets too late!

-Fair Isle is a good setting.

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It is.

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After just three months as a couple,

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Shaun and Rachel heard that one of the crofts

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on Fair Isle had become vacant.

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Barkland Croft comes with a four-bedroom house, 25 acres

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of land and 24 sheep.

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Despite having no farming experience,

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Shaun and Rachel convinced the National Trust for Scotland that

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they were cut out for life on a remote island.

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We had the advantage in that Shaun and Rachel had worked here on

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Fair Isle for six months prior to coming.

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And that was really nice.

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And that gave them a sort of understanding of Fair Isle life

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and what they might be faced with.

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Ever since the island's population has declined,

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Fair Isle has depended on incomers from all over the world.

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So of the 27 households, less than half are

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Fair Islanders born and bred.

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# Wish you were here... #

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Neil's family have lived on Fair Isle for over 400 years.

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He met his wife Pat while working in London.

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I met Neil in the Met Office when we were both on training courses.

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And...

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..we fell in love at first sight, didn't we?

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And then, after a brief few months, came up to Shetland,

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fell in love with Shetland,

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and came to Fair Isle and fell in love with Fair Isle, too.

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So we've never really looked back since then.

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How's this for romance?

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I proposed to Pat about ten o'clock on a rainy night.

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Outside Terminal 3 in a bus shelter at Heathrow.

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Yeah.

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We have fantastic wildlife.

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I mean, where else would I go and get to play with a big boat?!

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It's a bit thick to do with clippers, but never mind.

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-No hairdresser on Fair Isle, then?

-No.

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No hairdresser on Fair Isle.

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And if you've got short hair,

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you know, it needs doing

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regularly, then it's basically...

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You can't just fly out just to get your hair done.

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OK, well, this is just a wall of...

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Just a random wall of photos of the children mainly.

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All four of them since they were little.

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When did you have your first child?

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Lachlan, he was born in 1993 when I was at university.

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And the other three were born after we moved to Fair Isle.

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Get the gate, they'll just follow me in.

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Hollie and Deryk Shaw have lived here for 15 years.

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All right, open the gate.

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Ythan is the youngest of their four children.

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And the only one who's still at home.

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-This one's snowball.

-Snowball!

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That one's Napoleon.

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Hollie and Deryk first came here to run the bird observatory.

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Now, they both work on their croft and turn their hand to

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a couple of other jobs, too.

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Yeah, so that's fine.

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Should keep it clean in here.

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Dust and any dirt.

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Here we are. It's just after 7.30 in the morning.

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We are ready for off, finally.

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Cleared for...

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Cleared for take-off.

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The dogs are somewhere in the back, there.

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They've got their houses and baskets.

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I'm the pilot today.

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So far.

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There's Nanny. Bye, Nanny.

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Nanny in her dressing gown.

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-PEEPS HORN

-Bye.

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Bye.

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Fair Isle is in Britain,

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but it takes Shaun and Rachel three days by road and ferry

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to get themselves, their dogs

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and a removal lorry's worth of possessions to the south end

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of mainland Shetland.

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Here, they are met by Fair Isle's ferry and crew,

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who will take them the final 24 miles across the North Sea.

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But first, they must load up all their worldly goods.

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Right, Andy, in a bit.

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That's it.

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Off to the left, you're clear. There's nothing else in there then.

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-What's that?

-This is the baby grand piano.

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Rachel's baby grand piano.

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It's sentimental to Rachel as well

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but also she can play, play very well.

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It's literally all our life in a lorry.

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I'm looking forward to seeing this one coming out.

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I think it would have made the logistics a hell of a lot easier

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had we not brought the piano but, you know, I wanted it,

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so I've caused all sorts of chaos!

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Fair Isle's lifeline,

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the Good Shepherd IV, is the only way to get heavy goods

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on and off the island.

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And everything must be craned on.

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Hello. Could we please have two

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one-way tickets to Fair Isle?

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Fair Isle, times two. £10.60, please.

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I think moving to Fair Isle,

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it offers us the opportunity to grow our own vegetables.

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I'd like to have chickens.

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You know, we'd like pigs.

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A real Good Life.

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There is, I think, you know,

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that sense of community that hasn't been around probably since our

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grandparents' day.

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It's the old-style community where people look out for each other,

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help each other, and generally care about each other.

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-Did you have a good trip?

-Yeah. You all right?

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-Thank you.

-Good to see you.

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Hello. Hello.

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-Hello, sweetheart.

-Good to see you.

-You too.

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Are you all right?

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Good to see you.

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Are you all right, matey?!

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It's a splendid place to be yourself.

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You can't really pretend to be anything

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because everybody kens you

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and it's splendid.

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How many people do you know really, really well?

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I know all these people really, really well.

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I love them all. It's fantastic!

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It's been so nice. So many people turned out to see us.

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It's slightly overwhelming, to be honest,

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but it's lovely, nevertheless.

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Ah, you got me!

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Oh, my gosh! Have you seen this?

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Oh, my word!

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-No, sweetheart, they're from me!

-From you?

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I arranged this with Mati.

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-Did you?

-Yeah.

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-Aw! Come here, you wally.

-Welcome to our new home.

-That's awesome.

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-Right?

-Yeah.

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We've got to go round the other side.

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I'm coming round this other side - we're going in.

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All right?

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-It's not very wide.

-It's going to go.

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Push up, guys. Push up.

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We're going to need to go single file.

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-OK, Martin?

-OK?

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It's a step up for you guys,

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a step up.

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Thank you, guys, so, so much.

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You have gone above and beyond.

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Thank you.

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The average rental on Fair Isle will be round about

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the £500 a year mark.

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That's way below market value but it's done to make sure the burden of

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housing is kept to the minimum for islanders.

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We could never afford the size of house or land

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we will get in Barkland.

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It is a family house, it's a four-bedroomed house.

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Follow me, Sebastian. I'm going to the utility.

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How come you chose Shaun and Rachel,

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and not people with children already for Barkland?

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That was actually quite easy because nobody applied with children.

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-Hi, Mum!

-Hi, love!

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Dining room.

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You can see I've not got far to go if there's a fire.

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The Fire Service.

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Or to take the kids to school when we have kids.

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Working on that one.

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Thank you for all your help, all of you.

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Bye-bye. Bye-bye.

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We're in...ish.

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The dog has sicked on your sleeping bag, though, so...

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On the boat? Amazing!

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-My one's fine.

-I might want to like...

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Urgh, and in the corner of the car.

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SHEEP BLEAT

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Today, Hollie and Deryk's middle children, Raven and Fyntan,

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are coming home from school.

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-Hello, darling.

-They have no transport.

-No.

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What are you doing?

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There is no high school on Fair Isle.

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So, when children turn 11, they must board on the Shetland mainland.

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Youngest son Ythan is in his final year at primary school.

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After the summer, he will be the last of their children to leave.

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-INTERVIEWER:

-Do you think it's too young to go?

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-Ah...yeah.

-Realistically, yes.

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Yes, it probably is.

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It would probably be better to go when they're 13...

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15 would be great but it's not an option.

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So... Everyone has a choice.

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We have a choice to live here or not live here.

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No-one's forced us to do this.

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And there's lots and lots of upsides to our situation.

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We get to live in this amazing place.

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The children... This is where they...

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The younger three, this is where they were born.

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They don't know anywhere else. This is home to them.

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This is their rite of passage -

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going to the high school is a rite of passage to them.

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But it's hard. You miss a lot of them.

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And it is a really difficult decision.

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There have been plenty of people over the years who've decided

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to leave for that very reason.

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As their child reaches 11, then they've left the island for that reason.

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So, it's not easy.

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Ythan is one of only five pupils at the island's tiny primary school.

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If no new kids are born or come to Fair Isle, the school could close.

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An island without a primary school is not a place for young families.

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OK.

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Next thing you're going to do is you're going to go back to doing

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your Kandinsky circle pictures.

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I think Ythan will be fine at high school.

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I think he will enjoy it.

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I'm sure he's quite scared at the moment.

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He'll enjoy it after a while.

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It's just difficult, very difficult at the start for them,

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adjusting to lots of children.

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After the summer holidays,

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Ythan will board at Anderson High School on mainland Shetland.

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But Fair Isle's tiny plane and boat can only bring the children home

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from the school's hostel if the weather permits.

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We only come home once every three weeks and just for three days.

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Are you looking forward to it then?

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Yeah, definitely.

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What sort of things are you looking forward to?

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Just being with Fyn and Raven more and...

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just more people to play football.

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Anything you're going to miss from here?

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The playground. And that we all know each other really well.

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I'm starting the fire because there's certain, erm,

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things that you don't want in the normal rubbish.

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Penny and Sue,

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they come round once a week and they take away our plastic bags which go

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out to Shetland on a skip,

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on the boat.

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And then we've got

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Jimmy, who, erm,

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gets the glass and tins and they go off separately.

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They, too, go off on a boat to Shetland.

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I've been fitting some new windows and there's a couple of foam containers

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and I know not

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what will happen to them but, at some stage,

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they will no doubt make a noise.

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Are you supposed to burn those, John?

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I don't know what else to do with them.

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Ian, my son, looks after the water scheme.

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When I first came here, we operated with wells.

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Then we built a dam and pumped the water from out

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of what the dam had held.

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Later they put down boreholes.

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It'll go down to 300 feet until they get the right rock layer and there

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will be water they can extract from there.

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POWER STARTS

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The power comes on 7.30am and goes off at 11.30pm.

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There we go.

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They bring in diesel from Shetland on the boat.

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One of the team pumps it up and the generators keep going after that.

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Obviously, the generators are much more expensive than the wind power.

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John's daughter, Fiona, manages the Fire and Rescue team.

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Another of her six jobs is running

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the island shop with her husband, Robert.

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Did you see that Thursday night?

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The shop, I think, plays quite a vital role,

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it does provide a bit of a hub for what's going on in the island.

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-Hiya.

-When we unload the boat, there's other people...

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It's not just us collecting the shop goods and putting it into our van.

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It is an instinctive thing that people will come and help, which is great.

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We're very reliant on the wholesalers and all the people we're

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in touch with in Shetland

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to, I think, understand the difficulties of getting stuff to a remote island.

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But you can go for several weeks when there's no gap...

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There's no gap in the weather that allows the boat to go, so

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that can go on. The longest maybe is about five or six weeks we've

0:21:450:21:49

experienced whilst we've had the shop.

0:21:490:21:51

It's not too bad there but then kind of...

0:22:090:22:12

SHE PLAYS NOTES

0:22:120:22:13

It starts going a bit.

0:22:130:22:15

That's an especially lovely note there, right now.

0:22:160:22:19

No, it's just a beautiful piano.

0:22:200:22:24

When it's in tune, it has such a lovely, warm, kind of rich sound to it.

0:22:240:22:29

I just really enjoy playing it when no-one's listening.

0:22:300:22:33

Shaun and Rachel have been here a week.

0:22:410:22:43

Until they arrived, crofter Ian Stout had been looking after their sheep.

0:22:440:22:48

But now it's time for the new farmers to take over.

0:22:500:22:52

Remember, your land just runs out along this fence here, to the rough

0:22:540:22:58

grazing at the far end there.

0:22:580:23:00

-You can see the change in the ground type.

-Yeah.

0:23:000:23:02

Then to this fence that runs along there.

0:23:020:23:05

OK.

0:23:050:23:07

Just now you've got 24 ewes on here.

0:23:070:23:10

-24?

-Then there's a bit this side too.

0:23:100:23:12

Goes up along the dyke, here.

0:23:120:23:15

Is it where the trailer is...?

0:23:150:23:17

Out to the trailer there and another smaller part out there as well.

0:23:170:23:21

I have got the pleasure in welcoming Shaun and Rachel.

0:23:320:23:37

They have come and they've been worshipping with us all last year

0:23:370:23:41

whenever they were not on duty at the bird observatory.

0:23:410:23:43

They've got to know us.

0:23:430:23:45

Our good points, our bad points, all those sorts of things.

0:23:450:23:48

We've had a good look at them and thought, "Well, we can put up with them,

0:23:480:23:52

"if they want to come."

0:23:520:23:54

We just wanted to give you the right hand of friendship and say, welcome.

0:23:540:23:58

Thank you so much.

0:23:580:23:59

We'll enjoy you and I think you're going to enjoy Fair Isle.

0:23:590:24:02

-I think so. Yes.

-Great blessings upon you.

0:24:020:24:05

-Thank you.

-And you, Shaun.

0:24:050:24:06

-Thank you so much.

-Thank you.

0:24:060:24:07

Well, the cooker's in now, so at least we can get that on.

0:24:110:24:15

Well, the house is always open, you know that.

0:24:160:24:19

Big push, big push this afternoon for more stuff.

0:24:190:24:21

We only got up 20 minutes before.

0:24:210:24:23

We were like, "Oh, my God!"

0:24:230:24:24

-See you later, John.

-Cheers.

-Bye now.

0:24:250:24:27

-Are you all right?

-Yep.

0:24:270:24:29

So this is what we are famous for, Fair Isle knitting.

0:24:430:24:46

We don't know how long it's been going on.

0:24:460:24:48

We do know they were producing knitwear to sell, or to barter,

0:24:480:24:53

with ships as early as the 1690s.

0:24:530:24:57

So it is obviously a skill that's been here for a very long time.

0:24:570:25:00

Knitting has survived for hundreds of years because of a community that

0:25:120:25:19

puts a lot of emphasis on passing on the skills and their tradition.

0:25:190:25:24

I'm proof of it.

0:25:240:25:26

Foreigner, you know,

0:25:260:25:28

only eight years on the island and everyone here helped me to learn.

0:25:280:25:33

We kind of do it quite similarly to how the ladies would have done it in

0:25:360:25:39

the past because they would fit it around their lives.

0:25:390:25:41

They would go out, feed their hens and they would make their children

0:25:410:25:44

a meal or whatever, and what spare time they got,

0:25:440:25:46

they would do some knitting to sell to some visitors.

0:25:460:25:49

That's very much what we do.

0:25:490:25:51

When people come and they buy knitwear from me,

0:25:510:25:54

I have to go and do my shopping at the shop and I often go and say,

0:25:540:25:58

"What comes in one hand, goes out the other,"

0:25:580:26:00

because what people pay for my knitwear here

0:26:000:26:03

helps to keep the shop and the shop family going as well.

0:26:030:26:08

We are just setting up for the first cruise ship of the season that's

0:26:160:26:19

coming tomorrow. It's pretty important for the knitters,

0:26:190:26:23

because it is quite a high percentage of our sales goes to cruise ships.

0:26:230:26:27

We've brought all the stock from the observatory shop.

0:26:270:26:32

I brought all of Elisabeth's knitwear down as well, while she's away.

0:26:320:26:37

Mati is actually going to be away tomorrow, she's off island,

0:26:380:26:41

so she's asked if I could step in and help to kind of mind her stall.

0:26:410:26:45

-INTERVIEWER:

-Are you going to start knitting, Rachel?

-I would like to.

0:26:510:26:55

I will make sure she does!

0:26:550:26:56

No, it is one of the things I'm really, really excited about doing,

0:26:580:27:01

is getting more involved...

0:27:010:27:04

Hopefully helping out Mati in the future,

0:27:050:27:08

doing some finishing work for her and getting involved that way,

0:27:080:27:12

sort of get some experience before I can start doing my own sort of stuff

0:27:120:27:17

to help out.

0:27:170:27:18

Every year, sea birds and migrant birds arrive on Fair Isle in their

0:27:210:27:25

hundreds of thousands.

0:27:250:27:27

Following on behind come cruise ships full of bird-watchers.

0:27:280:27:32

People with binoculars that point, and money to spend.

0:27:340:27:37

Welcome to Fair Isle.

0:27:380:27:39

So what we are planning to do here is do some bird-watching.

0:27:390:27:43

And if you want to do that,

0:27:430:27:44

we have Doug and Mark taking the bird-watching groups.

0:27:440:27:48

If you want to walk on your own,

0:27:480:27:49

there is one single road that takes you to the community hall, so enjoy.

0:27:490:27:52

-Thank you.

-OK, you are welcome.

0:27:520:27:54

Yes, it suits your eyes, that one.

0:28:160:28:18

Goes with your coat as well.

0:28:180:28:20

-Thank you very much.

-You are very welcome.

0:28:200:28:23

Number...17. Would you like a bag?

0:28:230:28:25

-No.

-OK, thank you very much.

-Lovely.

0:28:250:28:28

Nearly always the cruise ships are a very good day for sales.

0:28:290:28:33

This one is a small/medium.

0:28:330:28:34

You've got basically 100 people who've come off a ship, who

0:28:340:28:38

want to buy Fair Isle knitwear, so every store tends to do pretty well.

0:28:380:28:42

So it is very important.

0:28:420:28:44

We're only getting about a dozen a year,

0:28:440:28:45

so it is not like there are lots of them.

0:28:450:28:48

The detail on this is just amazing.

0:28:480:28:50

Beautiful.

0:28:500:28:53

If you know you've got something that

0:28:530:28:56

is a little bit difficult to get hold of, then it keeps that specialness.

0:28:560:29:00

There is a cachet to something that is bought on Fair Isle.

0:29:000:29:03

-Do I rock it?

-Absolutely.

0:29:050:29:07

No-one can't rock a Fair Isle hat, everyone rocks a Fair Isle hat.

0:29:070:29:11

-Of course, everybody should have one.

-Absolutely.

0:29:110:29:14

One, two, three...

0:29:140:29:15

Yeah!

0:29:150:29:17

This is where we live.

0:29:360:29:37

And play.

0:29:390:29:40

And this is where people come and stay at the guesthouse.

0:29:420:29:45

Henry was five, almost six when we moved here.

0:29:480:29:52

He's been here most of his life, that he can remember.

0:29:520:29:55

Me too, almost.

0:29:590:30:01

I can't remember anything else!

0:30:010:30:04

Tommy is originally from upstate New York.

0:30:060:30:09

In here is where I paint

0:30:110:30:15

and make sculptures and listen to tunes.

0:30:150:30:19

He came to Fair Isle ten years ago with his wife and son, Henry.

0:30:200:30:24

The thing that made me

0:30:270:30:30

learn about Fair Isle was a radio programme

0:30:300:30:34

on the National Public Radio.

0:30:340:30:37

It was like, "If you want to get away from it all,

0:30:370:30:40

"there is a house to rent on the remote Fair Isle."

0:30:400:30:44

It was something that really appealed to my wife at the time.

0:30:450:30:49

She was the driving factor at the beginning.

0:30:510:30:53

Even though my wife has moved on and lives in Shetland now,

0:30:540:30:59

I still love the island and it is still Henry's home.

0:30:590:31:02

The first few weeks I was here I could do nothing but just stare out

0:31:030:31:07

the window. It was amazing.

0:31:070:31:10

I think this is a unique place on Earth.

0:31:120:31:15

I don't think I'll ever regret the decision to move here.

0:31:180:31:21

Within two weeks of his arrival,

0:31:260:31:28

Shaun has started working on the Good Shepherd,

0:31:280:31:31

as a relief crew member.

0:31:310:31:33

Which means other ferry staff can now have a much-needed day off.

0:31:330:31:37

What do your duties entail, then?

0:31:420:31:43

I am deckhand.

0:31:440:31:46

So basically what I have to do is, I help load, secure.

0:31:460:31:51

So as you've seen, secure the stuff into the hold,

0:31:530:31:56

get stuff into the hold,

0:31:560:31:58

make sure it is strapped down securely so it doesn't move.

0:31:580:32:00

Today is not a bad day, really, not got any real motion, but on a bad day,

0:32:000:32:05

if you can imagine the boat is pitching, rolling, stuff inside out.

0:32:050:32:09

Usually by that stage I've gone to my bunk.

0:32:090:32:11

Do you get sick?

0:32:110:32:12

I have been.

0:32:140:32:15

It is slowly getting better.

0:32:150:32:17

This can be a very rough journey.

0:32:270:32:29

A journey that...

0:32:290:32:32

It enters into people's psyche, haunts their dreams.

0:32:320:32:37

Quite literally.

0:32:370:32:39

And...

0:32:390:32:40

Yes, we've had an admiral of the fleet, who's been around the

0:32:430:32:48

world four times,

0:32:480:32:51

and he came on our boat and was sick for the first time in his life.

0:32:510:32:54

That is true.

0:32:550:32:56

The admiral. It's about the second worst stretch of water in the UK.

0:32:560:33:00

And it is where we have our bay.

0:33:020:33:05

Most folk avoid it.

0:33:050:33:07

After decades of unreliable mail boats,

0:33:130:33:16

the first Good Shepherd came into service in 1921.

0:33:160:33:20

Each new boat has seen vast improvements for the islanders' lifeline

0:33:200:33:25

to the Shetland mainland.

0:33:250:33:27

The Good Shepherd IV is now over 30 years old.

0:33:310:33:34

The islanders need a ferry that carries more cargo,

0:33:350:33:38

and makes them less seasick.

0:33:380:33:40

The community are pressing Shetland Islands Council for a replacement.

0:33:410:33:45

But for now, they have to make do.

0:33:450:33:47

-SHIPPING FORECAST:

-..Fair Isle, south-westerly, veering westerly,

0:33:530:33:58

five or six, occasionally seven...

0:33:580:34:01

When is the boat going to be here?

0:34:070:34:09

25 past.

0:34:090:34:11

Now.

0:34:110:34:12

-No, it's 20 past.

-A few minutes' time.

0:34:130:34:15

Children are coming home from school and they are supposed to come in the

0:34:180:34:21

plane, but the plane was cancelled due to low cloud and rain

0:34:210:34:26

and so they've opted for the four-hour Lerwick to Fair Isle,

0:34:260:34:34

four and a half hours on a boat in bad seas.

0:34:340:34:38

So the kids

0:34:400:34:42

are desperate to get home, and willing to endure that for

0:34:420:34:46

the weekend, for their families.

0:34:460:34:48

-It's a long trip.

-I think she'll have probably been sick.

0:34:480:34:50

Yeah!

0:34:500:34:51

She's almost certainly been sick.

0:34:510:34:53

But she really, really wanted to come home, so that was...

0:34:560:34:59

She knew that before she got on.

0:34:590:35:00

-Yes.

-She's quite stoic, really.

0:35:000:35:04

-I wasn't sick.

-She wasn't sick.

0:35:300:35:32

-Were you not?

-No. Hardcore.

0:35:320:35:34

-She said other people were sick.

-Hardcore.

-It was disgusting.

0:35:340:35:37

Been on that for five hours now.

0:35:370:35:40

Going up and down, and up and down, and up...

0:35:400:35:44

Was the boat rocking from side to side?

0:35:440:35:46

Yes. Did you see the waves in the window?

0:35:460:35:49

Yes.

0:35:490:35:50

HE LAUGHS

0:35:500:35:53

Rachel had hoped for a few more weeks to unpack and settle in.

0:36:070:36:11

But at short notice, the cook at the bird observatory has left.

0:36:110:36:15

So she's had to step in, working full-time,

0:36:150:36:18

catering for up to 40 full-board guests at the Observatory Lodge.

0:36:180:36:22

And like all the other islanders, she's already taken on another job.

0:36:260:36:30

Two, three weeks after we moved here,

0:36:310:36:34

I started coming down to Mati's a few days a week,

0:36:340:36:37

just for a couple of hours in the afternoon.

0:36:370:36:39

And she's been teaching me,

0:36:390:36:42

and I'm quite slow but I'm really enjoying it.

0:36:420:36:45

-INTERVIEWER:

-Are you doing this on your break, then?

0:36:450:36:48

Yes, I tend just to dash home, get changed, come back here and

0:36:480:36:52

it doesn't feel like work, I find it very relaxing.

0:36:520:36:55

It is very nice.

0:36:550:36:57

Have you found yourself giving Rachel advice about island life?

0:37:060:37:09

I have always said that Fair Isle is a testing ground for marriages!

0:37:100:37:15

You are both 24 hours a day with each other and when you go out to do

0:37:180:37:24

a job, you're doing it with the same people

0:37:240:37:26

you are seeing every single day.

0:37:260:37:28

Which your partner is seeing as well,

0:37:290:37:32

so there are no networks, outside networks, for you to release any tension.

0:37:320:37:37

You can't go and bitch about your partner with your girls,

0:37:370:37:40

because they will tell that to their partners.

0:37:400:37:44

It all goes round.

0:37:440:37:46

It is very difficult, it is like a big family.

0:37:460:37:49

In a way. And nothing passes unnoticed.

0:37:490:37:53

Yes, you can do nothing here without everybody knowing about it.

0:37:530:37:57

I went running once this year outside, never doing that again.

0:37:570:38:00

Because everybody wanted to talk about it.

0:38:010:38:04

Two days later. "Oh, I saw you running."

0:38:040:38:07

Yes, you can do nothing here without everybody knowing,

0:38:070:38:09

and also what you've bought.

0:38:090:38:11

If you order something and it comes in on the boat,

0:38:110:38:13

it's lifted up on the crane and put on the pier, everybody is like,

0:38:130:38:15

"Oh, you've got a new whatever."

0:38:150:38:17

Yes, if you wanted to keep something secret, you'd have to make an effort.

0:38:190:38:23

There's no anonymity here because it is a glasshouse.

0:38:240:38:28

If you...

0:38:280:38:31

..throw something in the air then it lands back on your head.

0:38:320:38:35

So, if you want anonymity, go and live in London, Glasgow,

0:38:370:38:42

somewhere like that.

0:38:420:38:43

Some traditions are unchangeable.

0:38:480:38:50

For as long as Fair Isle has been a crofting community,

0:38:510:38:55

a hill gathering has happened three times a year.

0:38:550:38:57

Sheep must be sheared, and whether they run a croft or not,

0:38:590:39:03

everyone comes together to help out.

0:39:030:39:06

There are more coming now.

0:39:070:39:09

Guests from the observatory,

0:39:110:39:13

children from the crofts, and the dogs from the crofts.

0:39:130:39:18

Every man and his dog, really.

0:39:180:39:20

If you pull too hard, what happens is you can pull out a bit of skin.

0:39:250:39:30

-Are you all right?

-Yes.

0:39:360:39:39

How much do you normally get for a fleece?

0:39:440:39:47

I don't think it is very much, £2 maybe, £3, something like that.

0:39:470:39:52

It's not a lot.

0:39:520:39:54

We don't clip it for the money, we clip it

0:39:540:39:56

for the welfare of the sheep.

0:39:560:39:58

Because it gets too hot otherwise.

0:39:580:40:00

Sometimes, when it gets sunny here.

0:40:000:40:02

Crofting on Fair Isle involves rearing sheep and running a smallholding.

0:40:040:40:08

It is part of the island's heritage.

0:40:080:40:11

Crofters here also share the sheep

0:40:110:40:13

which live on the north of the island,

0:40:130:40:15

set aside for common grazing.

0:40:150:40:17

Is crofting a profitable lifestyle?

0:40:180:40:20

No. It is a very simple answer, no.

0:40:200:40:24

But it is a way of life.

0:40:240:40:27

Do you think it is important that crofting as a way of life does

0:40:290:40:32

-continue on Fair Isle?

-I don't think Fair Isle would survive.

0:40:320:40:36

Fair Isle, I think,

0:40:370:40:40

works particularly well because it is

0:40:400:40:45

community-based.

0:40:450:40:47

Time to eat and go to bed.

0:40:500:40:52

I'm up for the boat in the morning.

0:40:520:40:54

The National Trust for Scotland's job is to protect natural and human

0:41:050:41:09

heritage. Which means making sure Fair Isle remains habitable.

0:41:090:41:13

The Trust's area manager, Alexander Bennett,

0:41:180:41:22

visits several times a year.

0:41:220:41:24

His priority right now is Midway croft house.

0:41:240:41:27

It could be a home for another family.

0:41:270:41:29

One of the priorities for Fair Isle,

0:41:310:41:33

for National Trust for Scotland and for the community,

0:41:330:41:36

is to grow the population.

0:41:360:41:38

And to do that, we need to get as many houses renovated as we can.

0:41:380:41:44

This is clearly an opportunity for us for the future.

0:41:440:41:47

We would basically want to completely renovate the house inside

0:41:470:41:51

with a view to maybe trying to get this done within the next year.

0:41:510:41:54

As soon as we get things underway,

0:41:540:41:56

we will probably advertise for a new family.

0:41:560:41:58

How much is it going to cost to renovate Midway?

0:41:590:42:01

It is going to be in the order of something between 150 and 200,000.

0:42:010:42:05

Or thereabouts.

0:42:050:42:07

-Who pays for that?

-Well, at the moment,

0:42:070:42:10

we will get a grant from the government of £60,000

0:42:100:42:13

from Innovation Scotland.

0:42:130:42:15

That helps to provide housing in remote areas.

0:42:150:42:18

But the balance will have to be found.

0:42:180:42:21

That's where National Trust for Scotland will probably have to dig deep.

0:42:210:42:24

In about half an hour, I need to go to work, OK?

0:42:540:42:57

There we go. Let's go for a walk.

0:43:000:43:02

What time do you start work?

0:43:050:43:06

I start work at 7.30.

0:43:060:43:09

Just going to rescue the stuff that has blown off the line now!

0:43:150:43:18

-Really?

-Yeah.

0:43:180:43:20

Working at the obs, when I finish there, between 2.00 and 2.30,

0:43:220:43:28

I go down to Mati's and do some of the knitwear stuff with her.

0:43:280:43:32

So that's normally a couple of hours.

0:43:320:43:34

Then it is time to get changed again and back to work,

0:43:340:43:36

and then it is normally 7.30 by the time we finish there.

0:43:360:43:40

I don't think I really factored in the kind of...

0:43:400:43:44

how sort of tiring I'd find it, you know,

0:43:440:43:47

trying to do that and then wanting to come back here

0:43:470:43:50

and get stuff done here.

0:43:500:43:52

So I think it is probably trying to get used to it and...

0:43:520:43:56

But at the moment it does feel slightly overwhelming that I'm there

0:43:560:44:02

until November, until the end of the season.

0:44:020:44:05

There is washing out on the line.

0:44:050:44:08

Will you just check it from time to time because one of the dog duvets

0:44:080:44:13

flew off already once?

0:44:130:44:15

-No problem.

-And there's a load in the washing machine at the moment.

0:44:150:44:19

-Come on, Simon.

-HE PEEPS HORN

0:44:190:44:21

Thank you very much.

0:44:250:44:26

Right, I will see you about two o'clock.

0:44:280:44:31

-OK.

-Have a good day.

-You too.

0:44:310:44:34

Don't forget the laundry.

0:44:340:44:35

"Don't forget the laundry, have a good day."

0:44:350:44:38

Are they the two rules?

0:44:380:44:39

Just don't forget the laundry if you can only remember one

0:44:390:44:42

-of them.

-So don't have a good day?

0:44:420:44:45

See you in a bit.

0:44:450:44:47

It is all

0:44:490:44:50

long days, short nights.

0:44:500:44:52

There just doesn't seem to be enough hours in the bed.

0:44:540:44:57

Even if you go to bed at a reasonable hour,

0:44:590:45:01

you end up getting up early.

0:45:010:45:03

They are shearing sheep up there, we should be shearing ours, really.

0:45:050:45:09

Generally the rule is,

0:45:100:45:11

we will have a look about and if we see other people put their washing

0:45:110:45:14

out, we go, "It's got to be right, get it out."

0:45:140:45:17

I've got washing in here anyway as well, so if I don't,

0:45:170:45:21

I will get shot.

0:45:210:45:22

By the firing squad.

0:45:220:45:25

Do you know what, I'm going to give this up in a minute.

0:45:330:45:36

We are very, very sad to say

0:45:460:45:49

cheerio to Ythan today.

0:45:490:45:51

So, I'm going to get upset more than him now.

0:45:530:45:57

He's been upset all morning, now it's my turn.

0:45:570:45:59

So we are really going to miss you, Ythan.

0:45:590:46:01

Thank you very much, he's been here for two years of nursery and

0:46:010:46:04

completed seven years at primary school.

0:46:040:46:06

And he's been absolutely brilliant.

0:46:070:46:09

Haven't you? We are really going to miss you.

0:46:090:46:12

So, thank you all very much for coming,

0:46:120:46:14

please stay and have some coffee and cake and it'll be time for everybody

0:46:140:46:17

to go home, and we hope you all have a great summer holiday.

0:46:170:46:19

Don't we? Thank you.

0:46:190:46:20

APPLAUSE

0:46:200:46:22

THEY GIGGLE

0:46:450:46:47

-INTERVIEWER:

-How does Fair Isle change in the summer when the kids come home?

0:46:520:46:56

It is quite different to have kids around.

0:46:560:46:59

There's a big shortage of young people on Fair Isle.

0:47:000:47:04

I've got a small cushion star.

0:47:150:47:18

Now, what's really special about these is none of them had been seen

0:47:200:47:26

further than Northern Ireland.

0:47:260:47:30

Until I found one up here.

0:47:300:47:33

It is in the back of my mind the whole time,

0:47:390:47:41

this is Ythan's last summer before he goes to high school.

0:47:410:47:45

Every single day I'm thinking about it.

0:47:450:47:47

The other day we were told what time the flight would be the day they go

0:47:470:47:50

back to school, and it kind of, you know, I know it's coming.

0:47:500:47:54

Because he's my last one.

0:47:540:47:55

It is really significant.

0:47:550:47:57

I'm kind of dreading it, really.

0:47:570:47:59

How are you going to help him?

0:48:010:48:02

Are you going to be able to help him, you two?

0:48:020:48:04

The whole time. We are going to be there for him because he's got loads

0:48:040:48:09

of people there, he's got all the house parents,

0:48:090:48:11

he's got Mr McGhee, he's got

0:48:110:48:13

all these different people who are just the year above him or the same

0:48:130:48:18

year as him, or even just two years above him, which is my year.

0:48:180:48:21

And he's got both me and Fyn, we can play guitar every weekend.

0:48:210:48:25

And he's going to make loads of friends because he is really easy to

0:48:250:48:29

talk to and he's good at communicating with people.

0:48:290:48:34

He won't have any trouble, he'll be fine.

0:48:340:48:36

It is Sunday today so we've just finished Sunday lunch service at the

0:48:590:49:02

obs, we finished about ten past two,

0:49:020:49:06

came home, got changed, had a quick coffee.

0:49:060:49:10

And we've just come out now for baling and then it is...

0:49:100:49:14

Not really sure how long it'll take to get through,

0:49:140:49:17

we've not got a huge silage park there,

0:49:170:49:19

so it shouldn't take too long.

0:49:190:49:21

And then back at work at five.

0:49:210:49:23

I've just been finding that I've just not really had the time that

0:49:300:49:33

I envisaged myself having to kind of get the house straight.

0:49:330:49:37

And, you know, feel like I'm actually playing a part in the community by

0:49:380:49:42

doing things like baling.

0:49:420:49:43

I mean, I think I only made it out for two afternoons.

0:49:430:49:46

People keep saying, you know,

0:49:470:49:48

"Oh, you've got to make time for yourselves."

0:49:480:49:50

But then you sort of think, you know,

0:49:500:49:52

on the odd occasion where we have had a day off together,

0:49:520:49:55

"Actually, I need to get on with the roof," or,

0:49:550:49:58

"I need to get on with this." And so it's kind of...

0:49:580:50:00

-Or baling, or...

-Yeah.

0:50:000:50:02

So I think we've identified the fact that it's not us, it's not...

0:50:020:50:08

You know, it's not going to be like this forever, this is it,

0:50:080:50:11

this is as good as it gets.

0:50:110:50:12

I think we've identified the fact that

0:50:120:50:14

one of the major things that has been making us kind of get at

0:50:140:50:19

each other has been that,

0:50:190:50:21

you know, I'm having no time off and I'm getting stressed and

0:50:210:50:27

getting at Shaun. So I've given my month's notice,

0:50:270:50:33

which takes us up to Thursday.

0:50:330:50:35

All right, then. I think you're sorted.

0:50:500:50:52

That's everything. You might want to take,

0:50:530:50:56

like, another game that you can play, rather than just electronic games.

0:50:560:51:00

-Mmm.

-Like a...

0:51:000:51:01

One of your little quiz games or something.

0:51:020:51:04

-Yeah.

-Cos you might spend a bit of time, especially at the weekends,

0:51:040:51:07

you know, you might spend a bit of time by yourself

0:51:070:51:10

until Fyntan gets up.

0:51:100:51:11

-Yeah?

-I did think about taking my moon ball.

0:51:120:51:15

-This thing?

-Yeah.

-OK.

0:51:150:51:17

Yeah, we can take that. That's only little.

0:51:190:51:21

You've got all those big corridors you can play in when there's nobody

0:51:210:51:24

else there at the weekend.

0:51:240:51:26

Yeah?

0:51:260:51:27

Need a bigger boot, now.

0:51:280:51:30

Would you consider leaving?

0:51:380:51:40

-Yes.

-Never say never.

0:51:410:51:42

We have considered it.

0:51:420:51:44

I mean, we considered it

0:51:440:51:46

15 years ago. When Lachlan went to the high school,

0:51:460:51:49

we considered leaving then.

0:51:490:51:51

As soon as he went. But he said, "You can't leave Fair Isle, Mum.

0:51:510:51:54

"You've got to stay here. I want you to stay here.

0:51:540:51:56

"I want to go."

0:51:560:51:58

And that's happened every time.

0:51:580:52:00

They've each gone and they didn't want us to leave Fair Isle.

0:52:000:52:03

All right, kids. Get in that plane!

0:52:040:52:07

Bye, Ma.

0:52:160:52:17

-Look after...

-I will.

0:52:190:52:21

HE SOBS

0:52:240:52:26

You're going to be fine, OK?

0:52:280:52:30

Huh?

0:52:310:52:32

-Of course you're going to be fine.

-Mum, I have to go.

0:52:340:52:37

-Don't cry, it's going to be fun.

-Come on, you're going to be fine.

0:52:420:52:45

It'll be good.

0:52:450:52:46

Lots of exciting things to do now.

0:52:470:52:49

Out in the big, wide world.

0:52:490:52:51

With your brother and sister to see every day.

0:52:520:52:56

-Yeah?

-Is he getting in here?

0:52:560:52:57

You'll be fine.

0:53:020:53:03

I think... I think you're in here.

0:53:050:53:07

Now, then. OK, darling?

0:53:070:53:09

All right? You be good.

0:53:090:53:11

-Have fun.

-You'll be fine.

0:53:110:53:13

See you in a couple of weeks.

0:53:140:53:16

All right?

0:53:190:53:21

-See you, Raven.

-Bye.

0:53:210:53:23

Well, that's it.

0:54:180:54:20

How does it make you feel, that he's gone?

0:54:450:54:47

Oh...

0:54:480:54:50

Oh, I know, it's a bit strange.

0:54:530:54:56

I miss him. Yeah, of course I do.

0:54:580:55:01

Anybody would.

0:55:010:55:02

When a child leaves home...

0:55:040:55:06

I mean, he is only 11.

0:55:060:55:07

Very young to be going out there.

0:55:080:55:10

I mean, it is effectively leaving home.

0:55:120:55:15

You notice vast changes when they come home, you know?

0:55:150:55:18

They've grown up so much, you know?

0:55:180:55:20

Become streetwise, or whatever you want to call it.

0:55:200:55:24

But, yeah, they do grow up fast when they go out there.

0:55:250:55:29

Yeah, they've not left home but they grow up fast.

0:55:290:55:31

I mean, they even physically grow fast, because it tends to hit...

0:55:310:55:34

Coincide with the age when they start to have growth spurts.

0:55:340:55:37

So they can come home, you know,

0:55:370:55:38

three weeks since you saw them and you can physically see they've grown.

0:55:380:55:42

You're like, wow... Well, they start to overtake me, so...

0:55:420:55:46

Quite quickly.

0:55:460:55:47

-Yeah. So...

-Do you feel like you're missing out?

0:55:480:55:51

Oh, no question about it.

0:55:510:55:52

-Oh, yeah.

-Absolutely. Yeah, missing a lot, yeah.

0:55:520:55:55

And it's very hard.

0:55:550:55:57

It's... And, again, up till now, although we're missing out,

0:55:570:56:00

we've always had one that you've still got...

0:56:000:56:04

At least one you've still got at home to sort of fill that gap.

0:56:040:56:07

But, no, we're definitely missing out.

0:56:070:56:09

There's no question about that.

0:56:090:56:12

It's...

0:56:120:56:13

It's the major downside to living here.

0:56:140:56:17

I feel more relaxed than...

0:56:470:56:49

You know, just about life in general, than I have in years.

0:56:490:56:54

And I love it. I mean... I say,

0:56:540:56:56

we've only been here five minutes and I know we've not experienced

0:56:560:56:59

a Fair Isle winter yet, we've got that to look forward to

0:56:590:57:01

and I'm sure, you know,

0:57:010:57:03

ask me in kind of four or five months and I'll be kind of sobbing

0:57:030:57:07

into my cocoa or something, but...

0:57:070:57:10

But, no, I think it's just...

0:57:100:57:12

I just feel like we're doing something here.

0:57:130:57:16

We're building up to stuff and, you know,

0:57:160:57:17

we will be growing our own and we will have polytunnels and we will

0:57:170:57:22

have the chickens, the hens and, you know,

0:57:220:57:25

we will have the potato patch out here.

0:57:250:57:27

And it's...

0:57:270:57:29

We will have the 2.4 children.

0:57:290:57:31

Can we not just have more dogs instead?

0:57:330:57:36

Next time, winter descends and the festive season brings families

0:57:450:57:50

and friends back to the isle.

0:57:500:57:52

Ythan will have to find his feet at school on Shetland.

0:57:530:57:56

He's been fairly homesick.

0:57:560:57:57

I think we kind of expected it.

0:57:570:57:59

Just because of the nature of him.

0:57:590:58:01

And Shaun and Rachel are finding life together on Fair Isle

0:58:010:58:04

increasingly hard.

0:58:040:58:06

Rachel! You can't stand here!

0:58:060:58:09

I know, that's why I'm going!

0:58:090:58:11

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