Episode 2 Fair Isle: Living on the Edge


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Fair Isle,

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Britain's most remote inhabited island.

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It's an extraordinary place to live.

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There are so many moments

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when you walk outside or even stand in the window

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on a stormy day and you just say, "Wow!

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But life here is not for everyone.

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You can be cut off for days at any time of the year.

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There is no power at night.

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And just one small shop.

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Splendid. Cheers.

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See you. Bye.

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Every able-bodied adult holds down several jobs

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just to keep the island going.

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But its population is at a critical point.

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If we lose two or three more families

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then the population crashes

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and that would be utter disaster for a remote place like this.

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Once, almost 400 people lived here.

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Now, there are 57.

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Two of them, Sean and Rachel, moved here just five months ago.

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Getting here cost them their life savings.

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It was a leap of faith.

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It was a massive leap of faith, I think, on both our parts.

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-Yeah.

-To come here together, you know, with everything.

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Rachel.

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The island needs people like them to put down roots

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if it's going to survive.

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Sometimes you'll be having a day

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where you think, what am I doing here?

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Usually, being isolated is a punishment for things.

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So sometimes I question that and then other times

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I kind of feel, God, aren't we lucky?

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I think you're aware, as well, that there's no half-measures here.

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If you decide to leave, you can't just come back.

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That would be your place gone.

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Fair Isle is this very small island at the top of the United Kingdom.

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It is halfway between these two groups of islands

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called the Shetland Islands and the Orkney Islands.

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It is three miles long and one-and-half miles across.

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And it is Britain's most remote inhabited island.

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And it's our home.

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The National Trust of Scotland bought Fair Isle in 1954.

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57 people live here,

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running 18 crofts and all the island's essential services.

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This is a working island.

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It's not a museum.

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It's a place where we live and if we want anything doing here,

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we have to do it for ourselves.

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Sean and Rachel are both ex-military,

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and are well equipped to adapt to island life.

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Rachel is a finisher for one of the island's knitters

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and Sean is a much needed crewmember on the island's ferry.

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-INTERVIEWER:

-What did you work on in the military, vehicle-wise?

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-Tanks!

-Tanks.

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Tanks, yeah.

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Go for that, Sean.

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You know, I've gone from dead-end job to dead-end job

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since, you know, the military and just

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not been able to find anything suitable.

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This is an absolute dream, you know, it is, really.

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Sean and Rachel had been together three months

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when they applied to live here.

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Since we've been here, I think, you know, we've had our ups and downs,

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you know, we are still a very new relationship

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and we've only just been together a little over a year.

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You know, if a relationship wasn't working somewhere else

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you could just pack the car and go.

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Here, I guess, you have that added, you know, it's not that easy.

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And they're yet to face their first winter on Fair Isle.

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Daylight in the winter can be as little as six hours.

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The weather can be pretty fearsome.

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I suppose on their first winter here they might actually feel

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a little bit claustrophobic.

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Well, there's quite a few challenges

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of living somewhere as remote as here.

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-Getting off!

-Travel is the big one.

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Getting off and back on is probably the biggest one!

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-INTERVIEWER:

-Do you like having sheep?

-I do like it, yes.

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Sometimes I don't like it.

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In the middle of winter and it's hideous and you've got to go out

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and feed them and roll bales of silage around,

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I don't like that, really,

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but lambing's lovely. Everybody loves lambing.

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Hollie and Derek Shaw have lived here for 15 years,

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raising a family of four.

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OK, well, this is just a wall of...

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It's just a random wall of photos of the children, mainly.

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All four of them, since they were little.

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Like all parents on the Isle, Hollie and Derek have to face the fact

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that when children turn 11 or 12, they leave the island

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to board at secondary school on the Shetland mainland.

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Last month, it was time for their youngest, Ivan, to go.

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-Do you feel like you're missing out?

-Oh, no question about it.

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-Oh, yeah.

-Absolutely. Yeah, missing a lot, yeah,

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and that's very hard.

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It's the major downside to living here.

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PHONE RINGS

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It's September, and Ivan has been away for almost three weeks.

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-Hello.

-But he's struggling with homesickness.

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Hi, darling, are you all right?

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What are you up to?

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'It's whenever he's got nothing to do, it seems to be, you know,

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'there's no-one else around.'

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OK.

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He can't think what to do by himself, and then he just...

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That's when he phones home...

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and starts crying.

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It's a huge adjustment for Hollie and Derek, too.

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But, no, it's OK.

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We've got used to it quite quickly.

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I knew I would get used to it quickly,

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because I've been through it a few times, but...

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um... Very nice, lots of people on the island asking us how we are,

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making sure we're all right.

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I'm getting lots of hugs, which is really nice.

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Life here is ruled by arrivals and departures.

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Every spring and autumn, the migrating birds return.

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There has been a bird observatory on Fair Isle for over 60 years.

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It's almost an industry.

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As the migrant birds arrive, so, too, do the bird-watchers.

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Thank you very much.

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About 600 every year,

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paying hundreds, sometimes thousands of pounds for the privilege.

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It's just one of those places that keeps drawing me back.

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It's just the air of expectation,

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you just don't know what's going to turn up here,

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and it's a beautiful place as well,

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you get a nice sunny day, the cliffs are just amazing.

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The scenery's just beyond

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anything I've really seen in the country, really.

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There've been occasions where we've had quite a few people gathered,

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you know, outside, but I don't think I've ever seen

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quite this many people, so it's quite exciting,

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even though I don't really know what the bird looks like

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that they're after.

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A lot of them just look like sparrows to me,

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but don't tell them I said that, they get very cross!

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The bird observatory, it, er...

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..it brings people in here, keeps the townsfolk going,

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keeps the level of connections that we have.

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We have a good level of service

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just because there's a lot of visitors coming here.

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It keeps the shop going.

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I doubt very much whether a shop would be viable here

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if it wasn't for having the bird observatory.

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So... They keep us viable and I suppose we keep them viable,

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so it's maybe the best of both worlds.

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This is one of the Fair Isle specials, you know.

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It's what all these people here have come to see, basically.

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Lanceolated warbler, Pallas's grasshopper warbler.

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There you go, boys.

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That's what all the fuss is about.

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Cool!

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-It's not big.

-No.

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The bird observatory has been collecting data for over 60 years.

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And because they have always used the same techniques,

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this information has become some of the most important

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migration and census data in Europe.

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HE MAKES BIRD CALLS

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I'll take the bird out of the box.

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OK, this is a willow warbler.

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Fair Isle's pretty much one of the best places to see migration,

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not just in Britain but anywhere in the world,

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so I feel incredibly lucky and privileged to get to work here

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and be a part of it, really.

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As the only landmass for miles,

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migrating birds use Fair Isle as a pit stop day and night.

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Put the song on, it's very loud.

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BIRDSONG RECORDING

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This is all ready for storm petrel trapping.

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It's quite exciting. It's good.

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Coming through, coming through.

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Lots and lots here.

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So, what we're doing is fitting a tiny, very lightweight metal ring

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on to the bird's leg. That has a unique number on it

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and it means that if this bird is found elsewhere

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or trapped by anyone else,

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then we get the details of where our bird has gone

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and the people who catch it get the details

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of where their bird came from.

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-Looking down, going down.

-It's gone down. It's come up the side now.

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-Right underneath us.

-It's probably right beneath us.

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Yeah, it's just out again.

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You can just about make it out, it's just almost beneath us.

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Fair Isle, tick.

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It's one of the ones I always wanted to see was a blue tail on Fair Isle.

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And I couldn't have asked for a better place for it, either.

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That is a warbler, Steve, there on that fence.

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-I think I might need to get closer.

-We're going to have to go

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and have a look at that for a minute. What time is it?

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-It's getting close to one.

-Getting close to lunch as well.

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-INTERVIEWER:

-Could you live somewhere like this?

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-Pardon?

-Could you live somewhere like this?

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-Oh...

-Would you live here?

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I would live here, yeah. I would live here, yeah, I would live here.

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My wife wouldn't live here. She'd hate it.

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If she can't go to John Lewis at weekend

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with her friend, then, you know...

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If I won the lottery and I won the big one, 75 million, I might build,

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come and build a John Lewis on here!

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-INTERVIEWER:

-If you won the lottery, what would you do?

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That's... Do you know, that's a... It's a funny question.

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Would you stay, would you go?

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Oh, for goodness' sake, no, I will stay.

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I'm living already with people that wins the lottery once

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so I don't need to move!

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No, I wouldn't.

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-Bigger shed!

-Bigger shed!

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I'm not...into that thing, no.

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I've got enough.

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If I win the lottery?

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It'd be a bloody miracle, I don't play the lottery!

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Oh, I'd probably have to go a few places,

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but I'd probably come back

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because that's the sort of place Fair Isle is,

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it does kind of have a little hold on you.

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Sean and Rachel only pay £500 a year in rent,

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but their incomes are low, too,

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and now they have to learn

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what everyone else on Fair Isle has had to before -

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how to make ends meet and how to croft.

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I do feel very much at home and this is what I should be doing, you know,

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possibly should have taken this up, not necessarily here,

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but maybe farming up, in the first place.

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Two eggs,

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which is very exciting.

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-INTERVIEWER:

-Are you still both glad you've come here, then?

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Yeah, massively. Well, I certainly am, you know,

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it is wonderful, but there are challenges as well.

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The past couple of months have been quite tight.

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Things like the sheep feed, you know, I mean that's...

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We've had two sheep feed deliveries, that's been about £200...

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-Well, the third one...

-..each time.

-Yeah, over 200 quid,

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250 or whatever it was, something like that maybe, give or take.

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-It's not bad.

-Which doesn't sound a lot, but I mean, I, you know,

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if I earn, sort of over £100 in a month from the finishing,

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it's a good month, so when you look at it in those terms,

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it's, you know,

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it's quite a massive expenditure and we've had the expense of,

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the Land Rover's a bit broken, so...

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It's going to probably be maybe £1,000-odd at least,

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I don't know, but it's about 300-odd quid

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just to take it apart in labour.

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Making Fair Isle sustainable is a priority

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for everyone who lives here.

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Along with all his other jobs,

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Ian is an elected member of the Community Association,

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established when the islanders realised

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they urgently needed to boost the population.

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Whilst the National Trust for Scotland does all it can,

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it's the community that have put together a development plan,

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which Ian is about to launch in Lerwick on the Shetland mainland.

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The purpose of the plan is to sustain Fair Isle into...

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into the next decade and well on after that.

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So, to sum up the document,

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it's about us helping ourselves and helping others to help us.

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Transport, there is movement ahead

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with the design budget for a new,

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improved ferry service.

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We need to improve the island power supply.

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-DIAL-UP CONNECTION SOUND

-Broadband, fairly vital for the island to secure broadband.

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It opens up the possibilities of jobs and, you know,

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decreasing the isolation of Fair Isle, it's just huge.

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The population is too small and needs to grow.

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We need more people. We've adopted a target

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of attracting three families in the next three to five years.

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We have to increase the housing to grow the population

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and that kind of sounds very obvious, but, I mean,

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there's a huge amount of issues in Fair Isle with producing housing.

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Fair Isle is divided up into 18 crofts

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and any building work is restricted by crofting legislation,

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which allows only one property per croft.

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There are three plots available for development...

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..but getting builders and building materials onto a remote island

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is expensive and always at the mercy of the weather.

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Everything that happens on the island is ruled by the weather.

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I mean, the boat's unlikely to go tomorrow because of the weather.

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September brings gales,

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which will only get worse as the winter approaches.

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It's an evil day we've got.

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This is terrible, it must be 50 knots.

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It must be, yeah.

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There'll be no plane today.

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If it's a gale, well, you'll be indoors doing something.

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If it's...if it's nicer weather

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you'll maybe take the opportunity to get outside and do something,

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so you can see it both ways.

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It looks to be slightly darker over the hill and around.

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I think that we've got two layers of cloud.

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The lowest, oh...

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How much?

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Three oktas, I think of that.

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Dave is a meteorologist.

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He's lived here for 44 years.

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His Fair Isle weather readings

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supply the shipping forecast all year round.

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No matter what improvements we get...

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..there will still be times

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when it's nigh-on impossible to go outside

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because you can't stand upright, you can't walk against the wind.

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-WEATHER FORECASTER:

-Fair Isle, cyclonic gale, eight to storm ten

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becoming north, six to gale eight.

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Good morning, porters, it's the Fair Isle nurse.

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I think there'll be no blood test coming out today, unfortunately.

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'Life is completely ruled by the weather,

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'and a lot of that is focused on transport issues because

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'we never know when the transport's going to arrive.'

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Hello, Dave, it's Elena.

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We're all standing here like spare parts at the airstrip.

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Any advances on previous news?

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Oh, no. Oh, no!

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Oh, no, Dave!

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I think I get quite uptight about it at times,

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but I also get disproportionately happy, delirious sometimes,

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when things actually work out.

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It's a plane, it's definitely a plane!

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There's no job like this in the UK anywhere, I don't think.

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It's completely unique, you know,

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you're on a rock in the middle of nowhere,

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and I think if you're a control freak and you need to be able

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to know that you're going to do something when you want to do it,

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then it's just no good doing a job like this.

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Very delighted to see you here. Thank you very much.

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-If you wouldn't mind taking this.

-Absolutely.

-Thank you very much.

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Bye!

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As the year wears on, the weather worsens.

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Travel to and from the Isle grows more unreliable.

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The high school children who are on the Shetland mainland right now

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are meant to fly home today.

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But the plane has been cancelled

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because Fair Isle lies shrouded in mist,

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which leaves just one alternative.

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We're going to Grutness to get on the boat, so we can go home,

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because the plane's not going to fly.

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-I'm going to get so sick!

-Which isn't great,

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because nobody wants to go on the boat because it's horrible.

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But, you know.

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-It's home.

-INTERVIEWER:

-Is this your first weekend home then, Ivan?

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-Yeah.

-Are you looking forward to it?

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Yeah.

0:20:450:20:46

-Daddy!

-Hiya!

0:20:480:20:51

Hi, Dad.

0:20:530:20:54

-Are you all right, darling?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

0:20:560:20:58

We gave them the option of what to do, you know,

0:21:020:21:04

whether to try and wait for a plane,

0:21:040:21:06

and if there wasn't a plane, come home next weekend.

0:21:060:21:08

I think he's very keen to come home this weekend,

0:21:080:21:11

so, I think he's missing home

0:21:110:21:13

so he's willing to suffer the boat.

0:21:130:21:17

-Hello!

-Hey, Mum.

-You all right, sweetheart?

-Yeah.

-And you, you OK?

0:21:340:21:39

Are you OK, yeah? Yeah.

0:21:410:21:44

Just take your bags straight upstairs, and get your washing out

0:21:490:21:52

because I'm going to have trouble getting it all dry.

0:21:520:21:54

Keep still because this is the bit, if I slip now, you're just bald, OK?

0:21:540:21:58

He's been... He's been fairly homesick.

0:21:580:22:01

I wasn't really surprised.

0:22:010:22:02

We kind of expected it because of the way...

0:22:020:22:04

Just because of the nature of him, as a person,

0:22:040:22:07

we thought he probably would be quite homesick.

0:22:070:22:10

OK. You're done.

0:22:100:22:12

Stand up, shake yourself off.

0:22:120:22:14

-Yeah.

-Taylor Swift.

0:22:140:22:16

Right. Go. Next.

0:22:180:22:20

We just have to ride it out.

0:22:270:22:28

And I think... Raven was much worse.

0:22:280:22:31

She was much worse and homesick,

0:22:310:22:32

much more homesick then he is.

0:22:320:22:34

I think, with him, it just feels worse for us because we haven't got

0:22:340:22:37

another child to focus on back at home.

0:22:370:22:39

So, when he phones and he's upset, that's all we've got left.

0:22:390:22:42

We're left with that kind of just sad feeling

0:22:420:22:45

when we got off the phone to him. But she was homesick for, well,

0:22:450:22:48

a couple of terms, weren't you?

0:22:480:22:49

Really quite badly.

0:22:490:22:51

And she's come through it really well in the end.

0:22:510:22:55

I reckon girls get more homesick than guys

0:22:550:22:58

-because guys can play on the computers and stuff.

-Yeah.

0:22:580:23:01

I don't like computers.

0:23:010:23:03

Let's see. Don't walk through the hair! Let's see you.

0:23:030:23:07

-That looks all right, doesn't it?

-Mm-hmm.

0:23:070:23:09

It's this side that's short.

0:23:120:23:14

OVERLAPPING CONVERSATIONS

0:23:230:23:26

-INTERVIEWER:

-Why is it so busy this morning?

0:23:370:23:39

It's busy because the boat went yesterday.

0:23:390:23:41

So we've got all the supplies coming in on the boat yesterday.

0:23:410:23:43

And, you know, there's fresh fruit and vegetables,

0:23:430:23:46

folk's milk, fresh bread, all that sort of stuff. So, it's always...

0:23:460:23:49

Everybody kind of get their supplies in for the week.

0:23:490:23:52

Because you've got to wait another week for the next boat.

0:23:520:23:55

STRONG WIND BLOWS

0:23:550:23:57

It's quite important to have a good supply in your freezer

0:24:030:24:06

to keep you going through the winter.

0:24:060:24:09

We've been freezing the milk,

0:24:090:24:11

just so that we've always got, you know, milk.

0:24:110:24:14

I can't open this very well.

0:24:170:24:19

Sean and Rachel are prepared for being cut off by winter weather.

0:24:230:24:27

But the effects of the damp, maritime climate on their home

0:24:270:24:31

are less easy to deal with.

0:24:310:24:32

So, this is the really bad, mouldy room,

0:24:320:24:36

which, you can see, it's delightful.

0:24:360:24:39

It gets cleaned a lot and the mould just grows back and grows back.

0:24:410:24:44

It's actually about ten times better than it was.

0:24:440:24:47

You see that bit of really black, black mould?

0:24:470:24:50

That's what all of this was like.

0:24:500:24:52

We have mouldy bed slats.

0:24:520:24:55

Which is lovely.

0:24:550:24:57

We could probably do with actually lifting that up so they can dry.

0:24:570:25:00

But where do we put it, Sean?

0:25:000:25:02

-There's nowhere...

-No, lean it up against,

0:25:020:25:04

at least there's air moving round it.

0:25:040:25:07

I don't know.

0:25:070:25:08

We're hoping that the trust can find the money

0:25:080:25:11

to get the insulation and everything...

0:25:110:25:13

-Sooner rather than later.

-Yes.

0:25:130:25:15

Um, so, we're just haemorrhaging money

0:25:150:25:17

on trying to keep this place warm,

0:25:170:25:20

where we shouldn't be doing,

0:25:200:25:22

you know.

0:25:220:25:24

And it's depressing.

0:25:240:25:26

Everyone who comes to Fair Isle has to adapt.

0:25:560:25:59

When Mati arrived from Venezuela,

0:25:590:26:01

her training as an architect wasn't much in demand.

0:26:010:26:04

So she took up the traditional Fair Isle craft of knitting instead.

0:26:060:26:09

Like some of the other island letters,

0:26:100:26:12

she makes a living from what she produces by hand.

0:26:120:26:15

But she has plans to expand.

0:26:170:26:19

-INTERVIEWER:

-What are you doing, Mati?

0:26:220:26:23

I'm making a selection of the photographs for the new,

0:26:230:26:28

um, online shop. It's going to be my own designs.

0:26:280:26:33

They are not knitted here in Fair Isle, so it is a collaboration

0:26:330:26:38

with the textile unit in Shetland College.

0:26:380:26:41

The idea is to explore manufacturing with an industrial knitting machine

0:26:410:26:49

in order to offer a high-quality garment,

0:26:490:26:52

but a more affordable price.

0:26:520:26:55

We've got all the stock ready, available now.

0:26:550:26:59

Labelled and washed and pressed.

0:26:590:27:02

So, it's now just a matter of

0:27:020:27:04

putting everything together and launch it.

0:27:040:27:07

So, see what happens.

0:27:070:27:10

The knitting tradition in Fair Isle can be traced back to the 1600s.

0:27:150:27:19

Originally made for barter to the passing ships,

0:27:190:27:22

it has played an essential part in the island's economy for centuries.

0:27:220:27:26

The Bruce Expedition of the Antarctic

0:27:290:27:31

went with a lot of Fair Isle jumpers

0:27:310:27:33

because James Coates from Paisley ordered

0:27:330:27:37

100 jumpers and 100 hats and 100 pairs of mittens

0:27:370:27:41

and 100 pairs of socks.

0:27:410:27:43

So, it was one time in Fair Isle's history when having

0:27:430:27:46

a house full of daughters must have been a huge asset!

0:27:460:27:49

Mati's plans to produce her knitwear industrially

0:27:500:27:54

goes against the grain.

0:27:540:27:56

Most Fair Isle knitters use these manual knitting machines

0:27:560:28:00

and finish off by hand.

0:28:000:28:02

They work from home and have no overheads.

0:28:030:28:06

-INTERVIEWER:

-Do you think there's room for

0:28:070:28:09

expansion on Fair Isle in regards to the knitwear?

0:28:090:28:12

I'm sure there is, actually.

0:28:140:28:16

I wouldn't like to see it becoming cheap and...

0:28:160:28:20

..produced...well, mass produced.

0:28:230:28:26

Because I think we are such a small community and, er,

0:28:260:28:30

one of the things we've got going for us

0:28:300:28:33

is the fact that we are unique.

0:28:330:28:35

And I think that we should use that.

0:28:350:28:37

It's very easy in a modern world

0:28:370:28:40

where everything is now technological

0:28:400:28:42

and I could design on a computer and then the machine would churn it out

0:28:420:28:47

and then I would have a garment at the end of it,

0:28:470:28:50

but I wouldn't have the same sense of, "That's part of me."

0:28:500:28:53

It's hand crafted,

0:28:530:28:54

and it's the hand-crafted element that makes it

0:28:540:28:58

important and special

0:28:580:29:00

and not something that might have been bought in Japan.

0:29:000:29:03

At Christmas, family and friends return to Fair Isle.

0:29:330:29:37

Elena spends time with her granddaughter,

0:29:380:29:41

and her husband, Yoan, who's come all the way from Romania.

0:29:410:29:45

Fresh!

0:29:460:29:47

Ooh!

0:29:490:29:51

It is amazing.

0:29:510:29:52

Yeah. Yoan fancies himself as a celebrity chef, you see.

0:29:520:29:55

They use lots of salt, because this is Romania...

0:29:550:29:57

Oh!

0:29:570:29:59

-That's OK.

-This is Romanian cookery,

0:29:590:30:01

-so we use lots of salt.

-Carry on.

-Oh, dear.

0:30:010:30:05

-Don't!

-Hypertension, here we come.

0:30:050:30:07

-INTERVIEWER:

-What are you making, then?

-Sarmale, it's called.

0:30:070:30:11

Sarmale, yes.

0:30:110:30:13

It's what Romanians eat for high days and holy days.

0:30:130:30:16

It's always... I breathe a sigh of relief when Yoan turns up

0:30:160:30:21

-for Christmas.

-Thank you.

-Why's that?

-Because I don't have to cook.

0:30:210:30:24

There's always something bubbling on the stove,

0:30:240:30:28

all the time when Yoan's here.

0:30:280:30:29

He doesn't live here all the time

0:30:290:30:31

because he's a gold miner by trade

0:30:310:30:33

and there aren't too many gold mines in Fair Isle.

0:30:330:30:36

He looks after our house in Romania

0:30:370:30:40

He just comes and demolishes the kitchen here

0:30:400:30:43

for Christmas and Easter time.

0:30:430:30:45

And I go out there three times a year,

0:30:450:30:48

and, er... But, you know, absence makes the heart grow fonder.

0:30:480:30:52

Happy Christmas.

0:30:590:31:01

There's a sort of bond between people here

0:31:050:31:08

which is very difficult to describe.

0:31:080:31:11

# Unto us a saviour is born this day. #

0:31:130:31:21

It's one of the things that make me really dread leaving here, because of that bond.

0:31:210:31:26

And again, I'm not quite sure exactly what it is.

0:31:260:31:28

It's not that we all think that everybody is wonderful,

0:31:280:31:32

doesn't mean to say that we get on with everybody.

0:31:320:31:35

It can mean that we get on each other's nerves, frankly,

0:31:350:31:38

from time to time.

0:31:380:31:39

But there's a bond somewhere which naturally occurs

0:31:390:31:44

among people on an island like this.

0:31:440:31:48

# We wish you a merry Christmas and a happy New Year. #

0:31:480:31:52

Oh, they're all home.

0:32:030:32:04

Lachlan, the eldest, and the three high school children

0:32:050:32:08

and my mum and dad have come up as well.

0:32:080:32:09

For two weeks. So, busy.

0:32:090:32:13

Good fun.

0:32:130:32:14

-INTERVIEWER:

-How is Ivan getting on?

0:32:160:32:18

He's settling in.

0:32:180:32:19

It's getting easier.

0:32:190:32:21

-He's not there yet.

-Got more friends, though.

0:32:210:32:23

Yeah. He's had a couple of sleepovers with friends in Lerwick.

0:32:230:32:26

It's still hard sometimes, but we get the worst of it.

0:32:260:32:29

You know, when he rings home and he's upset,

0:32:290:32:31

it's because he's bored and then he gets homesick.

0:32:310:32:33

So we're trying to keep him busy.

0:32:330:32:35

He's got a few things. He's started football and I think he might...

0:32:350:32:39

He's thinking about starting athletics.

0:32:390:32:41

Skipper Neall's daughter, Eileen, has flown in from Edinburgh

0:32:470:32:50

with the latest addition to the Thompson family.

0:32:500:32:53

This is Luca.

0:32:530:32:56

This is grandson Luca.

0:32:560:32:57

It is Eileen's pretty boy.

0:32:570:33:01

And he's, what, four? Three or four months. No?

0:33:010:33:04

-Four months, yeah.

-Yes.

-Four months old. Four months old.

0:33:040:33:07

Four months old! Isn't that good fun?

0:33:080:33:10

-INTERVIEWER:

-Is this his first time to Fair Isle?

0:33:100:33:13

This is his first time to Fair Isle, yeah, yeah.

0:33:130:33:16

I always liked growing up here.

0:33:260:33:27

I think it was the amount of freedom we had.

0:33:270:33:30

When you see it compared to a city life

0:33:300:33:32

where you have to watch your kids every second of every day.

0:33:320:33:34

Whereas here I can hand the baby to anyone.

0:33:340:33:36

You know, it's fine because they're all family or friends.

0:33:360:33:39

But I miss the community.

0:33:390:33:41

I really miss that.

0:33:410:33:43

There we go!

0:33:440:33:45

What have you got there, Neal? An airplane?

0:33:510:33:54

It's a...

0:33:570:33:59

-It is an airplane!

-Airplane!

0:33:590:34:01

-INTERVIEWER:

-Have you ever considered coming back to live here?

0:34:040:34:07

I think it's something we would think about.

0:34:070:34:09

Because we have a baby, I think

0:34:090:34:11

our life has probably changed quite a lot.

0:34:110:34:13

And priorities change.

0:34:130:34:14

It's not an easy thing to do

0:34:140:34:16

and I think it's not really an easy decision.

0:34:160:34:18

We'd need to think really carefully about it,

0:34:180:34:20

but I love being at home. My partner really loves it here, as well.

0:34:200:34:23

He feels very comfortable being here.

0:34:230:34:24

And certainly for the benefit of Luca

0:34:240:34:26

to be here around his family and all the history

0:34:260:34:28

that we have here on this island,

0:34:280:34:30

it could be a really attractive idea.

0:34:300:34:33

I like being home.

0:34:330:34:35

Well, isn't that romantic, Dave?

0:34:350:34:36

I can see that in your bathroom already.

0:34:390:34:41

-Well done.

-INTERVIEWER:

-Where's Rachel tonight?

0:34:410:34:44

She's not feeling very well at the moment.

0:34:440:34:46

She's got a really sore throat at the minute, so...

0:34:460:34:48

She's stolen the bottle of a child!

0:34:480:34:50

-Bit more on the tray up there.

-Good girl.

0:35:200:35:22

-INTERVIEWER:

-And how are you two getting on together then?

0:35:220:35:24

So far this year, all of three days of it, it's been good.

0:35:240:35:27

And I think it's, you know...

0:35:290:35:31

It's difficult, because, you know,

0:35:320:35:35

we have good days and we'll have bad days and, you know,

0:35:350:35:38

there are times where, or there have been times,

0:35:380:35:40

where I think if we weren't here on Fair Isle, it would have been...

0:35:400:35:44

It's reached the stage where it would have been very easy for us...

0:35:440:35:47

One of us, to have walked away from the situation...

0:35:470:35:50

-I'll do it.

-..and say, "Right, that's it.

0:35:520:35:55

"I've had enough. "I'm moving out."

0:35:570:35:58

You know, you haven't got any escape here on the island.

0:35:580:36:02

There's nowhere to go.

0:36:020:36:03

Even if one of us wanted to leave, I don't have the money to leave.

0:36:030:36:07

I can't afford to leave the island, to pay for a removals company,

0:36:070:36:11

to find somewhere else to live.

0:36:110:36:12

You know, so you kind of have to confront the issue.

0:36:120:36:16

Which in simplest terms is, "Do we want to be together?"

0:36:180:36:22

Just hook that over.

0:36:220:36:23

Just chuck it over for now. We'll get it on the way out.

0:36:240:36:28

You know, Christmas itself wasn't brilliant.

0:36:280:36:30

We didn't have a great day, Christmas Day, or...

0:36:300:36:32

We didn't have a day, Christmas Day, did we?

0:36:320:36:34

Well, obviously it was a Christmas Day.

0:36:340:36:36

Well, just another day.

0:36:360:36:38

Well, yeah.

0:36:380:36:40

You know, Christmas Day is what you make it,

0:36:410:36:43

but it wasn't for us as a couple, it wasn't...

0:36:430:36:46

..you know, a wholly successful day.

0:36:470:36:50

There wasn't anything successful on that day.

0:36:500:36:52

I had a nice day.

0:36:520:36:53

Do you want to go in?

0:36:530:36:55

Rachel. You can't stand here.

0:36:560:36:59

I know, that's why I'm going.

0:36:590:37:01

In spite of all the arguments

0:37:020:37:05

and the differences between us and our opinions on things and all that,

0:37:050:37:12

I think, you know, we do want to be together.

0:37:120:37:14

And we'd like to try and make that work.

0:37:140:37:18

And, you know, long term, whether it does or it doesn't, I've no idea,

0:37:180:37:22

but I think we'd like to give it the best shot.

0:37:220:37:25

-INTERVIEWER:

-Would you like to make it work, Sean?

-Yeah.

0:37:260:37:29

Oh, God.

0:37:300:37:32

Mum, why did you keep the door open yesterday?

0:37:500:37:53

-Bye, love.

-Bye.

0:37:560:37:57

Have a good day.

0:37:570:37:58

Mati's website selling her machine-produced knitwear

0:38:020:38:05

is doing brisk business. But the internet means

0:38:050:38:08

she can keep an eye on what's happening elsewhere,

0:38:080:38:11

and pictures of a recent Chanel launch have caught her attention.

0:38:110:38:15

Yeah, that's my garment and this is a copy that Chanel did.

0:38:160:38:20

It's pretty much the same.

0:38:200:38:22

So, yeah.

0:38:220:38:24

It was great because I thought, "Oh, God, it really looks good."

0:38:240:38:28

But then it was like, "OK.

0:38:290:38:34

"What do I do now?"

0:38:340:38:36

That shouldn't really be there, because it's my design.

0:38:360:38:40

I had a lot of people on social media were quite aggressive.

0:38:400:38:44

Which was not...

0:38:440:38:46

-I mean...

-INTERVIEWER:

-Saying what?

0:38:460:38:49

"You should sue them" and, "That's what they always do."

0:38:490:38:53

And, you know, "Always big fashion houses taking advantage."

0:38:530:38:57

And I thought, actually, I don't feel like that.

0:38:570:39:00

I don't really care about the money.

0:39:000:39:02

This is not about that. This is about awareness.

0:39:020:39:05

This is about knowing, you know, that there is a heritage,

0:39:050:39:09

a Scottish, very, very rich heritage.

0:39:090:39:12

I have had people that have looked at my website and said,

0:39:130:39:17

"Is that a place?"

0:39:170:39:19

And I'm like, "Yes. Fair Isle is actually an island.

0:39:190:39:22

"A very small one, but it is an island

0:39:220:39:25

"and that's where those patterns and those garments originated."

0:39:250:39:29

Two more, then.

0:39:460:39:48

That fuel is all just for heating.

0:39:500:39:52

Mostly for heating and generating the island's power scheme.

0:39:520:39:56

But the windmill got zapped with lightning,

0:39:560:39:59

so it's out of order at the moment,

0:39:590:40:01

and the direct result of that is

0:40:010:40:04

we have three times as many barrels coming.

0:40:040:40:07

Which, you know, that much more fuel getting burned.

0:40:070:40:11

It's not good for us and it's not good for the environment

0:40:110:40:14

and the whole thing, you know.

0:40:140:40:16

Before the turbine was damaged by lightning,

0:40:260:40:28

when the wind blew, the power was cheap.

0:40:280:40:31

And when the wind stopped, the generators took over...

0:40:330:40:36

..burning expensive diesel fuel

0:40:380:40:40

to power and heat all the homes on the island.

0:40:400:40:43

We restrict the use of diesel power

0:40:450:40:48

from 7.30 in the morning to 11.30 at night.

0:40:480:40:51

Unless we are on wind power, then it just...

0:40:520:40:55

It'll stay on 24 hours a day if we are on wind generation.

0:40:550:40:58

It's vital the islanders get this broken turbine repaired

0:40:590:41:03

as soon as possible. But it's a tall order,

0:41:030:41:06

requiring as many hands as can be mustered.

0:41:060:41:08

-INTERVIEWER:

-How long has it not been working?

0:41:130:41:15

About four months. Four months, isn't it?

0:41:150:41:17

Four months it's been out of commission, yeah.

0:41:170:41:19

The trouble is, like, I mean, it's like this.

0:41:190:41:21

You need the perfect day and you need the people to do it.

0:41:210:41:24

So, you just have to wait for it all to come together at the right time.

0:41:240:41:27

This is the way we've always done it, because you can't

0:41:300:41:33

get cranes and stuff and all that on this island,

0:41:330:41:35

so you have no choice but to do it this way.

0:41:350:41:37

How much longer will it take?

0:42:130:42:15

A couple of hours. What time is it now?

0:42:150:42:17

25 to... Yeah, maybe an hour.

0:42:170:42:19

Maybe. It depends.

0:42:190:42:20

Depends how fast I put them through their paces, eh?

0:42:200:42:23

Come on, boys. Come on. Oh, God, Derek,

0:42:230:42:25

you've got an hour to catch up!

0:42:250:42:27

The community have big plans to upgrade their entire power system.

0:42:290:42:33

They've secured £200,000 of funding,

0:42:340:42:37

but the sustainable system they want could cost nearly three million.

0:42:370:42:41

If it's completed, all of the island's

0:42:420:42:45

essential services will benefit,

0:42:450:42:47

and so will the Fair Islanders themselves.

0:42:470:42:50

It's hard to do your knitting in the dark.

0:42:520:42:54

Chanel have been in touch with Mati

0:42:560:42:59

to apologise for the mix-up in copying her design

0:42:590:43:02

and have offered her an opportunity to work for them.

0:43:020:43:05

When Chanel, er...

0:43:060:43:11

accidentally copied the design,

0:43:110:43:14

one of the things that was on offer was that if there was

0:43:140:43:19

a demand for the garment, they could place an order with me.

0:43:190:43:24

And I can't do it because I don't have the capabilities.

0:43:240:43:29

For the last two years,

0:43:290:43:31

Mati has been travelling back and forward

0:43:310:43:33

to the textiles department at Shetland College,

0:43:330:43:36

who are making knitwear for her website

0:43:360:43:38

using an industrial knitting machine.

0:43:380:43:41

She would like to see a similar machine at work on Fair Isle.

0:43:420:43:45

But it wouldn't produce

0:43:470:43:48

the pure, handcrafted knitwear the Isle is famous for.

0:43:480:43:51

My idea is that that machine will supply retailers and online shops.

0:43:520:43:58

-INTERVIEWER:

-Will you still hand-knit?

0:43:580:44:00

Definitely. I mean, the most important part

0:44:000:44:03

of my business is my bespoke service.

0:44:030:44:05

That's my aim, that one day we could have hand-knitting,

0:44:050:44:09

handcrafted and the industrial one

0:44:090:44:12

all working together to support the economy of the island.

0:44:120:44:16

I would love to see you up and doing everything on the Fair Isle.

0:44:160:44:20

Very quickly.

0:44:200:44:22

Very quickly!

0:44:220:44:23

Yeah. Well, you know, if you can

0:44:240:44:27

employ three, four, five people,

0:44:270:44:31

and those four, five people are earning a living.

0:44:310:44:35

You know...

0:44:350:44:36

Not just getting by, as you said, but earning a living.

0:44:360:44:39

You know, then that's good. It's all been worthwhile.

0:44:390:44:43

It's now April, so, we're well into...

0:44:560:45:00

Well, getting into spring now,

0:45:000:45:02

and we've actually started lambing now.

0:45:020:45:06

This is the nitty-gritty of it and...

0:45:090:45:11

Mm, mm-hm. It's quite nice. Everything in the year,

0:45:110:45:15

this is sort of the culmination of it. Everything leads to lambing.

0:45:150:45:19

Oh, well done.

0:45:280:45:29

Nearly there.

0:45:330:45:34

Good girl. Good girl, Brenda.

0:45:340:45:37

Good girl.

0:45:400:45:41

Oh, Brenda, yay. Good girl.

0:45:440:45:46

Look at that big, fat lamb.

0:45:460:45:48

Look at it.

0:45:480:45:49

Good girl.

0:45:490:45:51

Good girl.

0:45:520:45:54

Lambing is in full swing.

0:45:540:45:56

But in Sean and Rachel's house,

0:45:560:45:58

the list of small domestic disasters is getting longer.

0:45:580:46:02

-INTERVIEWER:

-OK. So, what's happened here then?

0:46:030:46:05

Basically, as you can see,

0:46:050:46:08

the entire wall units came crashing down.

0:46:080:46:11

Just a little thing to put in a box of...

0:46:110:46:13

Well, it's not a little thing.

0:46:130:46:15

I think there's been several major things with the house

0:46:150:46:18

and it's, you know, up to here with it, quite frankly.

0:46:180:46:22

-It's not being on the island, it's not living on the island.

-No.

0:46:220:46:25

-We don't want to not be here.

-We don't want to move off the island

0:46:250:46:27

-or anything like that.

-But do I want to continue living in this house?

0:46:270:46:31

No. I hate this house, quite frankly.

0:46:310:46:33

Do we want to keep putting our efforts into this place for...

0:46:330:46:36

..even more belongings of ours to get broken now?

0:46:380:46:41

You know, it's...

0:46:410:46:43

-It's that fact, isn't it, now?

-DISTANT BARKING

0:46:430:46:45

Oh, what are those pissing dogs barking at? Sorry.

0:46:450:46:49

BARKING

0:46:490:46:51

-Morning.

-Morning.

0:46:580:47:00

Put all your stuff here, please.

0:47:020:47:04

-INTERVIEWER:

-What's Ivan like when he goes now?

0:47:070:47:09

Just normal now when he goes. Just like the others.

0:47:090:47:11

Yeah, just like with the others now. Yeah. "Bye, Mum. Bye, Dad."

0:47:110:47:14

-Sometimes he's a bit clingy the day before, actually, isn't he?

-Yeah.

0:47:140:47:17

-But not bad.

-Just thinking about it.

0:47:170:47:19

-How long's it been, then? Since he left?

-August, September, November,

0:47:230:47:26

-December, January, February...

-Last August, yeah.

0:47:260:47:28

March, April. Yeah, eight months.

0:47:280:47:29

As much as it's very hard for us to have our children go away,

0:47:310:47:34

I don't think many of us would think

0:47:340:47:36

it would be beneficial to keep them here until they're 15.

0:47:360:47:39

You know, they need to see a bigger...

0:47:390:47:40

Well, it's important for them

0:47:400:47:42

to get their social interaction, you know, in the wider world, you know.

0:47:420:47:45

Coming somewhere like Tesco's really big,

0:47:470:47:50

because we're not used it on Fair Isle.

0:47:500:47:53

You hardly see three cars in the same place,

0:47:530:47:55

but you come somewhere like this and there's traffic jams

0:47:550:47:58

and traffic lights

0:47:580:47:59

and shops are, like, much bigger and it's really busy.

0:47:590:48:04

And it's weird, but you get more used to it.

0:48:040:48:06

-Oh. They sell ketchup!

-So many people.

0:48:060:48:09

-INTERVIEWER:

-Do you find it intimidating or anything?

0:48:110:48:13

-That it's so busy.

-No.

0:48:130:48:15

I like seeing a lot of people.

0:48:160:48:18

I like people.

0:48:200:48:22

There's probably more people in the shop

0:48:220:48:24

-than there is on Fair Isle.

-Yeah.

0:48:240:48:25

What is the population of Fair Isle?

0:48:270:48:28

-It's about...

-57.

-Do you know that?

0:48:280:48:31

What can you see? How many people can you see right now?

0:48:310:48:34

-Don't count.

-Count.

-OK, fine, count them.

0:48:340:48:36

Is it easier for you guys now that it's easier for him?

0:48:370:48:40

-Oh, yes.

-If it's easier for him,

0:48:400:48:41

-it's easier for us instantly.

-Oh, yeah, fabulous.

-Yeah.

0:48:410:48:43

And even when it was bad, he still didn't want to change it.

0:48:450:48:48

He still wanted...

0:48:480:48:50

That was the situation and he wanted to still live here,

0:48:500:48:53

so he could go to the hostel.

0:48:530:48:54

-Yeah.

-He was just learning to deal with it.

0:48:540:48:56

48.

0:48:580:49:00

Oh, no, hold on.

0:49:000:49:02

-57.

-57.

0:49:030:49:04

That's the population of Fair Isle! Oh, my God.

0:49:040:49:07

This is our new kitchen unit,

0:49:230:49:25

since everything fell off the wall.

0:49:250:49:27

So, at least it's handy.

0:49:270:49:30

At least I can see stuff. What I've got.

0:49:300:49:33

Um, a bit bare now,

0:49:340:49:37

on the wall.

0:49:370:49:39

But, yeah, we have a toaster that works, at least.

0:49:400:49:44

This is Sean's room, in here.

0:49:460:49:48

Very neat.

0:49:500:49:52

And then this is my room.

0:49:530:49:55

The door doesn't open properly because it's broken.

0:49:580:50:01

So, erm...

0:50:010:50:02

-INTERVIEWER:

-How long have you been in separate rooms?

-Oh, months.

0:50:040:50:08

Months and months. Mainly because Sean insists on sleeping

0:50:080:50:11

with the three dogs and as many cats as want to go in there.

0:50:110:50:15

You know, there are times when both of us have said, you know,

0:50:160:50:20

"We can't carry on living together."

0:50:200:50:22

We're having a row and, you know, but...

0:50:220:50:25

-People say things, don't they?

-We both want to be here.

0:50:250:50:28

-We both want to be on Fair Isle.

-Yeah.

0:50:280:50:30

Neither of us wants to give that up any time soon.

0:50:300:50:33

But, what is the alternative?

0:50:330:50:37

You know, if one of us moves out of here,

0:50:370:50:40

there is nowhere for them to move on Fair Isle.

0:50:400:50:43

There is no alternative accommodation.

0:50:430:50:46

You know, it would mean one of us having to move somewhere else,

0:50:460:50:52

off island, which isn't something either of us wants to do.

0:50:520:50:56

You know, we both have our different jobs here on the island.

0:50:560:50:59

You know, we're both part of the community.

0:51:010:51:05

Um...

0:51:050:51:06

It's not something...

0:51:070:51:09

..you know, we do want to give up,

0:51:100:51:11

whether that's individually or as a couple.

0:51:110:51:14

Um, so, you know, to a certain extent,

0:51:140:51:18

we're kind of, we're stuck with each other.

0:51:180:51:21

-She says that...

-Are still a couple?

0:51:230:51:26

Or are you just housemates?

0:51:260:51:28

I... I know...

0:51:290:51:32

I think we're a couple. I know we're a couple.

0:51:320:51:34

There are people who live here who no longer wish to live together.

0:51:430:51:47

And there are people who don't live here, who really wish they could.

0:51:500:51:53

Houses on Fair Isle are in short supply.

0:51:550:51:58

The National Trust for Scotland are still trying to find enough money

0:51:590:52:03

to make homes for new families to move here.

0:52:030:52:05

But an unexpected door has opened for Neal's daughter, Eileen.

0:52:080:52:11

Some of her relatives have decided to leave,

0:52:120:52:15

and they've signed their house and croft over to Eileen and her family.

0:52:150:52:19

The affordability of living in a beautiful house there

0:52:220:52:25

and having land around us,

0:52:250:52:27

compared to managing in a two-bedroom flat in the city...

0:52:270:52:30

..is going to be much easier.

0:52:310:52:33

And we want more children and there's just no room here.

0:52:330:52:35

So, hopefully, at the end of this year,

0:52:350:52:37

we'll be leaving Edinburgh and starting a new life back up at home.

0:52:370:52:41

And I just love where I come from. I miss it. I really miss the island,

0:52:420:52:45

and Gishermo loves it, too.

0:52:450:52:46

It's now a year and a half since

0:53:010:53:03

Sean and Rachel moved into their croft house, and a lot has happened.

0:53:030:53:08

The damp room has been fixed.

0:53:080:53:10

There's no new kitchen cupboards yet and there is something else missing.

0:53:100:53:15

Sean and I are no longer together.

0:53:170:53:19

Um, we split up quite a few months back.

0:53:190:53:22

Um, so I've stayed here in the croft.

0:53:220:53:26

Sean's moved out. He's still on the island.

0:53:260:53:29

He has a house a little way down the island now.

0:53:290:53:32

Um, so I'm just kind of here on my own

0:53:320:53:35

and I'm running the croft and the sheep on my own, so...

0:53:350:53:39

with help from my neighbours.

0:53:390:53:41

Too much difference between us.

0:53:410:53:43

We weren't actually, you know, on the same page with a lot of things.

0:53:430:53:49

So...neither of us wanted to leave.

0:53:490:53:53

You know, it was all looking as if I was going to have to leave.

0:53:530:53:57

And then, just by...

0:53:570:54:00

..a miracle, somewhere became available.

0:54:010:54:05

There are two small council properties on Fair Isle

0:54:050:54:08

and again, unexpectedly, one has become vacant.

0:54:080:54:12

So, Sean has managed to stay on the Isle.

0:54:120:54:14

-INTERVIEWER:

-Why did you want to stay?

0:54:160:54:18

Because this is the magic of this place.

0:54:180:54:20

It is still the community, er, feel and...

0:54:200:54:24

..that overwhelming feeling of, "I've found home."

0:54:260:54:30

Sean and Rachel may not be a couple any more,

0:54:330:54:36

but they have both become a big part of the community.

0:54:360:54:39

Fair Isle coastguard Alpha.

0:54:390:54:41

They each have several essential island jobs.

0:54:410:54:43

And Rachel is continuing to run the croft on her own.

0:54:460:54:50

You feel like you're part of something.

0:54:500:54:53

You feel like you're making a difference

0:54:530:54:55

and you belong to something.

0:54:550:54:57

I'm so glad I'm here. You know,

0:54:580:55:01

I can't actually imagine living anywhere else now.

0:55:010:55:05

You know, I wake up every morning looking out on this view...

0:55:060:55:09

..and knowing the people out there are always going to still help you,

0:55:100:55:17

regardless of what happens.

0:55:170:55:18

They're still going to be there for you

0:55:180:55:20

and they're still going to care about you.

0:55:200:55:23

And just the way of life here.

0:55:260:55:27

It's just fantastic.

0:55:270:55:30

It's a different world.

0:55:300:55:31

-INTERVIEWER:

-Can you remember a moment where you thought,

0:55:430:55:47

"I love living here"?

0:55:470:55:48

Where were you? What were you doing? Have you ever thought that?

0:55:490:55:52

-Oh, I've thought that lots of times.

-Yeah. A lot.

0:55:520:55:55

The whole notion of thinking,

0:55:590:56:02

"Wow, this is a lovely place to be"

0:56:020:56:05

I think has just always been there.

0:56:050:56:08

If I go for a walk on the cliffs, I can have...

0:56:150:56:19

..you know, there's a hush, as it were.

0:56:210:56:23

You don't have to think about anything.

0:56:230:56:25

You don't have to, um...

0:56:250:56:27

..you don't have to worry about anything.

0:56:280:56:31

Hundreds of people have paths in this island,

0:56:370:56:42

and the island continues to

0:56:420:56:45

be that something and carry its own heritage.

0:56:450:56:49

And as soon as you move to live here, you learn to do it.

0:56:500:56:55

Whether it's the sheep, or the knitting, or lobster catching...

0:57:030:57:08

..you just learn.

0:57:090:57:11

So, it belongs to the island.

0:57:120:57:15

A lot of things do.

0:57:150:57:16

We come and we go and the things are still there.

0:57:210:57:25

That's why every day there's something

0:57:270:57:30

that makes me feel I love being here.

0:57:300:57:33

Every day.

0:57:330:57:35

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