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Fair Isle, | 0:00:05 | 0:00:06 | |
Britain's most remote inhabited island. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:09 | |
It's an extraordinary place to live. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:14 | |
There are so many moments | 0:00:16 | 0:00:18 | |
when you walk outside or even stand in the window | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
on a stormy day and you just say, "Wow! | 0:00:21 | 0:00:26 | |
But life here is not for everyone. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:30 | |
You can be cut off for days at any time of the year. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
There is no power at night. | 0:00:34 | 0:00:37 | |
And just one small shop. | 0:00:37 | 0:00:40 | |
Splendid. Cheers. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:43 | |
See you. Bye. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:44 | |
Every able-bodied adult holds down several jobs | 0:00:44 | 0:00:48 | |
just to keep the island going. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:50 | |
But its population is at a critical point. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:58 | |
If we lose two or three more families | 0:00:58 | 0:01:00 | |
then the population crashes | 0:01:00 | 0:01:02 | |
and that would be utter disaster for a remote place like this. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:07 | |
Once, almost 400 people lived here. | 0:01:07 | 0:01:10 | |
Now, there are 57. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:15 | |
Two of them, Sean and Rachel, moved here just five months ago. | 0:01:16 | 0:01:21 | |
Getting here cost them their life savings. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:25 | |
It was a leap of faith. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:27 | |
It was a massive leap of faith, I think, on both our parts. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:30 | |
-Yeah. -To come here together, you know, with everything. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:34 | |
Rachel. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:35 | |
The island needs people like them to put down roots | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
if it's going to survive. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:41 | |
Sometimes you'll be having a day | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
where you think, what am I doing here? | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
Usually, being isolated is a punishment for things. | 0:01:56 | 0:02:01 | |
So sometimes I question that and then other times | 0:02:03 | 0:02:06 | |
I kind of feel, God, aren't we lucky? | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
I think you're aware, as well, that there's no half-measures here. | 0:02:12 | 0:02:15 | |
If you decide to leave, you can't just come back. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:18 | |
That would be your place gone. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:20 | |
Fair Isle is this very small island at the top of the United Kingdom. | 0:02:25 | 0:02:29 | |
It is halfway between these two groups of islands | 0:02:29 | 0:02:33 | |
called the Shetland Islands and the Orkney Islands. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:36 | |
It is three miles long and one-and-half miles across. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:42 | |
And it is Britain's most remote inhabited island. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:46 | |
And it's our home. | 0:02:47 | 0:02:48 | |
The National Trust of Scotland bought Fair Isle in 1954. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:54 | |
57 people live here, | 0:02:55 | 0:02:57 | |
running 18 crofts and all the island's essential services. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:01 | |
This is a working island. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:04 | |
It's not a museum. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:06 | |
It's a place where we live and if we want anything doing here, | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
we have to do it for ourselves. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:11 | |
Sean and Rachel are both ex-military, | 0:03:11 | 0:03:13 | |
and are well equipped to adapt to island life. | 0:03:13 | 0:03:17 | |
Rachel is a finisher for one of the island's knitters | 0:03:17 | 0:03:20 | |
and Sean is a much needed crewmember on the island's ferry. | 0:03:20 | 0:03:24 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -What did you work on in the military, vehicle-wise? | 0:03:26 | 0:03:29 | |
-Tanks! -Tanks. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:30 | |
Tanks, yeah. | 0:03:30 | 0:03:32 | |
Go for that, Sean. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:34 | |
You know, I've gone from dead-end job to dead-end job | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
since, you know, the military and just | 0:03:38 | 0:03:40 | |
not been able to find anything suitable. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:43 | |
This is an absolute dream, you know, it is, really. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:48 | |
Sean and Rachel had been together three months | 0:03:51 | 0:03:53 | |
when they applied to live here. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
Since we've been here, I think, you know, we've had our ups and downs, | 0:03:58 | 0:04:03 | |
you know, we are still a very new relationship | 0:04:03 | 0:04:07 | |
and we've only just been together a little over a year. | 0:04:07 | 0:04:11 | |
You know, if a relationship wasn't working somewhere else | 0:04:11 | 0:04:16 | |
you could just pack the car and go. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:19 | |
Here, I guess, you have that added, you know, it's not that easy. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:24 | |
And they're yet to face their first winter on Fair Isle. | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
Daylight in the winter can be as little as six hours. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
The weather can be pretty fearsome. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:42 | |
I suppose on their first winter here they might actually feel | 0:04:44 | 0:04:47 | |
a little bit claustrophobic. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:48 | |
Well, there's quite a few challenges | 0:04:52 | 0:04:55 | |
of living somewhere as remote as here. | 0:04:55 | 0:04:58 | |
-Getting off! -Travel is the big one. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:00 | |
Getting off and back on is probably the biggest one! | 0:05:01 | 0:05:05 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Do you like having sheep? -I do like it, yes. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
Sometimes I don't like it. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:10 | |
In the middle of winter and it's hideous and you've got to go out | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
and feed them and roll bales of silage around, | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
I don't like that, really, | 0:05:15 | 0:05:17 | |
but lambing's lovely. Everybody loves lambing. | 0:05:17 | 0:05:19 | |
Hollie and Derek Shaw have lived here for 15 years, | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
raising a family of four. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:26 | |
OK, well, this is just a wall of... | 0:05:26 | 0:05:28 | |
It's just a random wall of photos of the children, mainly. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:31 | |
All four of them, since they were little. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:33 | |
Like all parents on the Isle, Hollie and Derek have to face the fact | 0:05:38 | 0:05:42 | |
that when children turn 11 or 12, they leave the island | 0:05:42 | 0:05:46 | |
to board at secondary school on the Shetland mainland. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:49 | |
Last month, it was time for their youngest, Ivan, to go. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:54 | |
-Do you feel like you're missing out? -Oh, no question about it. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
-Oh, yeah. -Absolutely. Yeah, missing a lot, yeah, | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
and that's very hard. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:02 | |
It's the major downside to living here. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
PHONE RINGS | 0:06:05 | 0:06:07 | |
It's September, and Ivan has been away for almost three weeks. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:12 | |
-Hello. -But he's struggling with homesickness. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:15 | |
Hi, darling, are you all right? | 0:06:15 | 0:06:17 | |
What are you up to? | 0:06:17 | 0:06:19 | |
'It's whenever he's got nothing to do, it seems to be, you know, | 0:06:19 | 0:06:23 | |
'there's no-one else around.' | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
OK. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:26 | |
He can't think what to do by himself, and then he just... | 0:06:27 | 0:06:31 | |
That's when he phones home... | 0:06:31 | 0:06:33 | |
and starts crying. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
It's a huge adjustment for Hollie and Derek, too. | 0:06:37 | 0:06:40 | |
But, no, it's OK. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:46 | |
We've got used to it quite quickly. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:50 | |
I knew I would get used to it quickly, | 0:06:50 | 0:06:52 | |
because I've been through it a few times, but... | 0:06:52 | 0:06:54 | |
um... Very nice, lots of people on the island asking us how we are, | 0:06:54 | 0:06:58 | |
making sure we're all right. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:00 | |
I'm getting lots of hugs, which is really nice. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:02 | |
Life here is ruled by arrivals and departures. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:13 | |
Every spring and autumn, the migrating birds return. | 0:07:13 | 0:07:17 | |
There has been a bird observatory on Fair Isle for over 60 years. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:27 | |
It's almost an industry. | 0:07:27 | 0:07:28 | |
As the migrant birds arrive, so, too, do the bird-watchers. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:34 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:35 | |
About 600 every year, | 0:07:35 | 0:07:38 | |
paying hundreds, sometimes thousands of pounds for the privilege. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:42 | |
It's just one of those places that keeps drawing me back. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:46 | |
It's just the air of expectation, | 0:07:46 | 0:07:48 | |
you just don't know what's going to turn up here, | 0:07:48 | 0:07:50 | |
and it's a beautiful place as well, | 0:07:50 | 0:07:52 | |
you get a nice sunny day, the cliffs are just amazing. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:54 | |
The scenery's just beyond | 0:07:54 | 0:07:56 | |
anything I've really seen in the country, really. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
There've been occasions where we've had quite a few people gathered, | 0:08:06 | 0:08:09 | |
you know, outside, but I don't think I've ever seen | 0:08:09 | 0:08:12 | |
quite this many people, so it's quite exciting, | 0:08:12 | 0:08:14 | |
even though I don't really know what the bird looks like | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
that they're after. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:18 | |
A lot of them just look like sparrows to me, | 0:08:18 | 0:08:21 | |
but don't tell them I said that, they get very cross! | 0:08:21 | 0:08:25 | |
The bird observatory, it, er... | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
..it brings people in here, keeps the townsfolk going, | 0:08:45 | 0:08:48 | |
keeps the level of connections that we have. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
We have a good level of service | 0:08:52 | 0:08:53 | |
just because there's a lot of visitors coming here. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:56 | |
It keeps the shop going. | 0:08:56 | 0:08:58 | |
I doubt very much whether a shop would be viable here | 0:08:58 | 0:09:02 | |
if it wasn't for having the bird observatory. | 0:09:02 | 0:09:07 | |
So... They keep us viable and I suppose we keep them viable, | 0:09:08 | 0:09:14 | |
so it's maybe the best of both worlds. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:18 | |
This is one of the Fair Isle specials, you know. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:22 | |
It's what all these people here have come to see, basically. | 0:09:23 | 0:09:26 | |
Lanceolated warbler, Pallas's grasshopper warbler. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:29 | |
There you go, boys. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:30 | |
That's what all the fuss is about. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:32 | |
Cool! | 0:09:32 | 0:09:33 | |
-It's not big. -No. | 0:09:36 | 0:09:38 | |
The bird observatory has been collecting data for over 60 years. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:47 | |
And because they have always used the same techniques, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:50 | |
this information has become some of the most important | 0:09:50 | 0:09:53 | |
migration and census data in Europe. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
HE MAKES BIRD CALLS | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
I'll take the bird out of the box. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:11 | |
OK, this is a willow warbler. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:14 | |
Fair Isle's pretty much one of the best places to see migration, | 0:10:14 | 0:10:17 | |
not just in Britain but anywhere in the world, | 0:10:17 | 0:10:19 | |
so I feel incredibly lucky and privileged to get to work here | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
and be a part of it, really. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:24 | |
As the only landmass for miles, | 0:10:25 | 0:10:27 | |
migrating birds use Fair Isle as a pit stop day and night. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:32 | |
Put the song on, it's very loud. | 0:10:33 | 0:10:35 | |
BIRDSONG RECORDING | 0:10:35 | 0:10:38 | |
This is all ready for storm petrel trapping. | 0:10:39 | 0:10:41 | |
It's quite exciting. It's good. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:43 | |
Coming through, coming through. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:51 | |
Lots and lots here. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:52 | |
So, what we're doing is fitting a tiny, very lightweight metal ring | 0:10:52 | 0:10:56 | |
on to the bird's leg. That has a unique number on it | 0:10:56 | 0:10:59 | |
and it means that if this bird is found elsewhere | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
or trapped by anyone else, | 0:11:02 | 0:11:04 | |
then we get the details of where our bird has gone | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
and the people who catch it get the details | 0:11:07 | 0:11:09 | |
of where their bird came from. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:11 | |
-Looking down, going down. -It's gone down. It's come up the side now. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:16 | |
-Right underneath us. -It's probably right beneath us. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:18 | |
Yeah, it's just out again. | 0:11:18 | 0:11:20 | |
You can just about make it out, it's just almost beneath us. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:26 | |
Fair Isle, tick. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:28 | |
It's one of the ones I always wanted to see was a blue tail on Fair Isle. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
And I couldn't have asked for a better place for it, either. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:35 | |
That is a warbler, Steve, there on that fence. | 0:11:35 | 0:11:38 | |
-I think I might need to get closer. -We're going to have to go | 0:11:38 | 0:11:41 | |
and have a look at that for a minute. What time is it? | 0:11:41 | 0:11:43 | |
-It's getting close to one. -Getting close to lunch as well. | 0:11:45 | 0:11:48 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Could you live somewhere like this? | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
-Pardon? -Could you live somewhere like this? | 0:11:50 | 0:11:52 | |
-Oh... -Would you live here? | 0:11:52 | 0:11:54 | |
I would live here, yeah. I would live here, yeah, I would live here. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
My wife wouldn't live here. She'd hate it. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
If she can't go to John Lewis at weekend | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
with her friend, then, you know... | 0:12:03 | 0:12:06 | |
If I won the lottery and I won the big one, 75 million, I might build, | 0:12:06 | 0:12:11 | |
come and build a John Lewis on here! | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -If you won the lottery, what would you do? | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
That's... Do you know, that's a... It's a funny question. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:21 | |
Would you stay, would you go? | 0:12:21 | 0:12:23 | |
Oh, for goodness' sake, no, I will stay. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:26 | |
I'm living already with people that wins the lottery once | 0:12:26 | 0:12:30 | |
so I don't need to move! | 0:12:30 | 0:12:32 | |
No, I wouldn't. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:34 | |
-Bigger shed! -Bigger shed! | 0:12:35 | 0:12:37 | |
I'm not...into that thing, no. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:42 | |
I've got enough. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:43 | |
If I win the lottery? | 0:12:43 | 0:12:45 | |
It'd be a bloody miracle, I don't play the lottery! | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
Oh, I'd probably have to go a few places, | 0:12:48 | 0:12:51 | |
but I'd probably come back | 0:12:51 | 0:12:52 | |
because that's the sort of place Fair Isle is, | 0:12:52 | 0:12:55 | |
it does kind of have a little hold on you. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:58 | |
Sean and Rachel only pay £500 a year in rent, | 0:13:07 | 0:13:12 | |
but their incomes are low, too, | 0:13:12 | 0:13:14 | |
and now they have to learn | 0:13:14 | 0:13:16 | |
what everyone else on Fair Isle has had to before - | 0:13:16 | 0:13:20 | |
how to make ends meet and how to croft. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
I do feel very much at home and this is what I should be doing, you know, | 0:13:23 | 0:13:28 | |
possibly should have taken this up, not necessarily here, | 0:13:28 | 0:13:31 | |
but maybe farming up, in the first place. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:34 | |
Two eggs, | 0:13:36 | 0:13:38 | |
which is very exciting. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Are you still both glad you've come here, then? | 0:13:40 | 0:13:43 | |
Yeah, massively. Well, I certainly am, you know, | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
it is wonderful, but there are challenges as well. | 0:13:47 | 0:13:50 | |
The past couple of months have been quite tight. | 0:13:50 | 0:13:54 | |
Things like the sheep feed, you know, I mean that's... | 0:13:54 | 0:13:57 | |
We've had two sheep feed deliveries, that's been about £200... | 0:13:57 | 0:14:01 | |
-Well, the third one... -..each time. -Yeah, over 200 quid, | 0:14:01 | 0:14:03 | |
250 or whatever it was, something like that maybe, give or take. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
-It's not bad. -Which doesn't sound a lot, but I mean, I, you know, | 0:14:06 | 0:14:10 | |
if I earn, sort of over £100 in a month from the finishing, | 0:14:10 | 0:14:15 | |
it's a good month, so when you look at it in those terms, | 0:14:15 | 0:14:18 | |
it's, you know, | 0:14:18 | 0:14:19 | |
it's quite a massive expenditure and we've had the expense of, | 0:14:19 | 0:14:23 | |
the Land Rover's a bit broken, so... | 0:14:23 | 0:14:26 | |
It's going to probably be maybe £1,000-odd at least, | 0:14:26 | 0:14:30 | |
I don't know, but it's about 300-odd quid | 0:14:30 | 0:14:33 | |
just to take it apart in labour. | 0:14:33 | 0:14:35 | |
Making Fair Isle sustainable is a priority | 0:14:49 | 0:14:52 | |
for everyone who lives here. | 0:14:52 | 0:14:53 | |
Along with all his other jobs, | 0:14:55 | 0:14:57 | |
Ian is an elected member of the Community Association, | 0:14:57 | 0:15:01 | |
established when the islanders realised | 0:15:01 | 0:15:03 | |
they urgently needed to boost the population. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
Whilst the National Trust for Scotland does all it can, | 0:15:08 | 0:15:11 | |
it's the community that have put together a development plan, | 0:15:11 | 0:15:15 | |
which Ian is about to launch in Lerwick on the Shetland mainland. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:19 | |
The purpose of the plan is to sustain Fair Isle into... | 0:15:19 | 0:15:24 | |
into the next decade and well on after that. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:28 | |
So, to sum up the document, | 0:15:28 | 0:15:30 | |
it's about us helping ourselves and helping others to help us. | 0:15:30 | 0:15:35 | |
Transport, there is movement ahead | 0:15:35 | 0:15:39 | |
with the design budget for a new, | 0:15:39 | 0:15:41 | |
improved ferry service. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:43 | |
We need to improve the island power supply. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:47 | |
-DIAL-UP CONNECTION SOUND -Broadband, fairly vital for the island to secure broadband. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:54 | |
It opens up the possibilities of jobs and, you know, | 0:15:54 | 0:15:58 | |
decreasing the isolation of Fair Isle, it's just huge. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:00 | |
The population is too small and needs to grow. | 0:16:00 | 0:16:04 | |
We need more people. We've adopted a target | 0:16:04 | 0:16:06 | |
of attracting three families in the next three to five years. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:10 | |
We have to increase the housing to grow the population | 0:16:10 | 0:16:14 | |
and that kind of sounds very obvious, but, I mean, | 0:16:14 | 0:16:18 | |
there's a huge amount of issues in Fair Isle with producing housing. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:23 | |
Fair Isle is divided up into 18 crofts | 0:16:24 | 0:16:28 | |
and any building work is restricted by crofting legislation, | 0:16:28 | 0:16:32 | |
which allows only one property per croft. | 0:16:32 | 0:16:36 | |
There are three plots available for development... | 0:16:37 | 0:16:40 | |
..but getting builders and building materials onto a remote island | 0:16:41 | 0:16:45 | |
is expensive and always at the mercy of the weather. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
Everything that happens on the island is ruled by the weather. | 0:16:51 | 0:16:54 | |
I mean, the boat's unlikely to go tomorrow because of the weather. | 0:16:54 | 0:16:58 | |
September brings gales, | 0:17:01 | 0:17:04 | |
which will only get worse as the winter approaches. | 0:17:04 | 0:17:06 | |
It's an evil day we've got. | 0:17:08 | 0:17:11 | |
This is terrible, it must be 50 knots. | 0:17:13 | 0:17:15 | |
It must be, yeah. | 0:17:15 | 0:17:17 | |
There'll be no plane today. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:20 | |
If it's a gale, well, you'll be indoors doing something. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:24 | |
If it's...if it's nicer weather | 0:17:24 | 0:17:27 | |
you'll maybe take the opportunity to get outside and do something, | 0:17:27 | 0:17:30 | |
so you can see it both ways. | 0:17:30 | 0:17:32 | |
It looks to be slightly darker over the hill and around. | 0:17:35 | 0:17:38 | |
I think that we've got two layers of cloud. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:40 | |
The lowest, oh... | 0:17:40 | 0:17:43 | |
How much? | 0:17:43 | 0:17:44 | |
Three oktas, I think of that. | 0:17:48 | 0:17:50 | |
Dave is a meteorologist. | 0:17:50 | 0:17:52 | |
He's lived here for 44 years. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:56 | |
His Fair Isle weather readings | 0:17:56 | 0:17:58 | |
supply the shipping forecast all year round. | 0:17:58 | 0:18:01 | |
No matter what improvements we get... | 0:18:01 | 0:18:05 | |
..there will still be times | 0:18:06 | 0:18:08 | |
when it's nigh-on impossible to go outside | 0:18:08 | 0:18:12 | |
because you can't stand upright, you can't walk against the wind. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
-WEATHER FORECASTER: -Fair Isle, cyclonic gale, eight to storm ten | 0:18:16 | 0:18:20 | |
becoming north, six to gale eight. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:23 | |
Good morning, porters, it's the Fair Isle nurse. | 0:18:23 | 0:18:26 | |
I think there'll be no blood test coming out today, unfortunately. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:30 | |
'Life is completely ruled by the weather, | 0:18:33 | 0:18:35 | |
'and a lot of that is focused on transport issues because | 0:18:35 | 0:18:38 | |
'we never know when the transport's going to arrive.' | 0:18:38 | 0:18:42 | |
Hello, Dave, it's Elena. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:44 | |
We're all standing here like spare parts at the airstrip. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:47 | |
Any advances on previous news? | 0:18:47 | 0:18:49 | |
Oh, no. Oh, no! | 0:18:52 | 0:18:54 | |
Oh, no, Dave! | 0:18:54 | 0:18:56 | |
I think I get quite uptight about it at times, | 0:18:58 | 0:19:01 | |
but I also get disproportionately happy, delirious sometimes, | 0:19:01 | 0:19:06 | |
when things actually work out. | 0:19:06 | 0:19:08 | |
It's a plane, it's definitely a plane! | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
There's no job like this in the UK anywhere, I don't think. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:17 | |
It's completely unique, you know, | 0:19:17 | 0:19:19 | |
you're on a rock in the middle of nowhere, | 0:19:19 | 0:19:22 | |
and I think if you're a control freak and you need to be able | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
to know that you're going to do something when you want to do it, | 0:19:25 | 0:19:28 | |
then it's just no good doing a job like this. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:31 | |
Very delighted to see you here. Thank you very much. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:37 | |
-If you wouldn't mind taking this. -Absolutely. -Thank you very much. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:40 | |
Bye! | 0:19:42 | 0:19:43 | |
As the year wears on, the weather worsens. | 0:19:55 | 0:19:58 | |
Travel to and from the Isle grows more unreliable. | 0:19:58 | 0:20:01 | |
The high school children who are on the Shetland mainland right now | 0:20:03 | 0:20:07 | |
are meant to fly home today. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:08 | |
But the plane has been cancelled | 0:20:10 | 0:20:12 | |
because Fair Isle lies shrouded in mist, | 0:20:12 | 0:20:15 | |
which leaves just one alternative. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:18 | |
We're going to Grutness to get on the boat, so we can go home, | 0:20:23 | 0:20:26 | |
because the plane's not going to fly. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:28 | |
-I'm going to get so sick! -Which isn't great, | 0:20:31 | 0:20:33 | |
because nobody wants to go on the boat because it's horrible. | 0:20:33 | 0:20:36 | |
But, you know. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:37 | |
-It's home. -INTERVIEWER: -Is this your first weekend home then, Ivan? | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
-Yeah. -Are you looking forward to it? | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
Yeah. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:46 | |
-Daddy! -Hiya! | 0:20:48 | 0:20:51 | |
Hi, Dad. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:54 | |
-Are you all right, darling? -Yeah. -Yeah. | 0:20:56 | 0:20:58 | |
We gave them the option of what to do, you know, | 0:21:02 | 0:21:04 | |
whether to try and wait for a plane, | 0:21:04 | 0:21:06 | |
and if there wasn't a plane, come home next weekend. | 0:21:06 | 0:21:08 | |
I think he's very keen to come home this weekend, | 0:21:08 | 0:21:11 | |
so, I think he's missing home | 0:21:11 | 0:21:13 | |
so he's willing to suffer the boat. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
-Hello! -Hey, Mum. -You all right, sweetheart? -Yeah. -And you, you OK? | 0:21:34 | 0:21:39 | |
Are you OK, yeah? Yeah. | 0:21:41 | 0:21:44 | |
Just take your bags straight upstairs, and get your washing out | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
because I'm going to have trouble getting it all dry. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:54 | |
Keep still because this is the bit, if I slip now, you're just bald, OK? | 0:21:54 | 0:21:58 | |
He's been... He's been fairly homesick. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:01 | |
I wasn't really surprised. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:02 | |
We kind of expected it because of the way... | 0:22:02 | 0:22:04 | |
Just because of the nature of him, as a person, | 0:22:04 | 0:22:07 | |
we thought he probably would be quite homesick. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
OK. You're done. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:12 | |
Stand up, shake yourself off. | 0:22:12 | 0:22:14 | |
-Yeah. -Taylor Swift. | 0:22:14 | 0:22:16 | |
Right. Go. Next. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:20 | |
We just have to ride it out. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:28 | |
And I think... Raven was much worse. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:31 | |
She was much worse and homesick, | 0:22:31 | 0:22:32 | |
much more homesick then he is. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:34 | |
I think, with him, it just feels worse for us because we haven't got | 0:22:34 | 0:22:37 | |
another child to focus on back at home. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:39 | |
So, when he phones and he's upset, that's all we've got left. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:42 | |
We're left with that kind of just sad feeling | 0:22:42 | 0:22:45 | |
when we got off the phone to him. But she was homesick for, well, | 0:22:45 | 0:22:48 | |
a couple of terms, weren't you? | 0:22:48 | 0:22:49 | |
Really quite badly. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
And she's come through it really well in the end. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:55 | |
I reckon girls get more homesick than guys | 0:22:55 | 0:22:58 | |
-because guys can play on the computers and stuff. -Yeah. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:01 | |
I don't like computers. | 0:23:01 | 0:23:03 | |
Let's see. Don't walk through the hair! Let's see you. | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
-That looks all right, doesn't it? -Mm-hmm. | 0:23:07 | 0:23:09 | |
It's this side that's short. | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
OVERLAPPING CONVERSATIONS | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Why is it so busy this morning? | 0:23:37 | 0:23:39 | |
It's busy because the boat went yesterday. | 0:23:39 | 0:23:41 | |
So we've got all the supplies coming in on the boat yesterday. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
And, you know, there's fresh fruit and vegetables, | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
folk's milk, fresh bread, all that sort of stuff. So, it's always... | 0:23:46 | 0:23:49 | |
Everybody kind of get their supplies in for the week. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
Because you've got to wait another week for the next boat. | 0:23:52 | 0:23:55 | |
STRONG WIND BLOWS | 0:23:55 | 0:23:57 | |
It's quite important to have a good supply in your freezer | 0:24:03 | 0:24:06 | |
to keep you going through the winter. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
We've been freezing the milk, | 0:24:09 | 0:24:11 | |
just so that we've always got, you know, milk. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:14 | |
I can't open this very well. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:19 | |
Sean and Rachel are prepared for being cut off by winter weather. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:27 | |
But the effects of the damp, maritime climate on their home | 0:24:27 | 0:24:31 | |
are less easy to deal with. | 0:24:31 | 0:24:32 | |
So, this is the really bad, mouldy room, | 0:24:32 | 0:24:36 | |
which, you can see, it's delightful. | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
It gets cleaned a lot and the mould just grows back and grows back. | 0:24:41 | 0:24:44 | |
It's actually about ten times better than it was. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:47 | |
You see that bit of really black, black mould? | 0:24:47 | 0:24:50 | |
That's what all of this was like. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:52 | |
We have mouldy bed slats. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:55 | |
Which is lovely. | 0:24:55 | 0:24:57 | |
We could probably do with actually lifting that up so they can dry. | 0:24:57 | 0:25:00 | |
But where do we put it, Sean? | 0:25:00 | 0:25:02 | |
-There's nowhere... -No, lean it up against, | 0:25:02 | 0:25:04 | |
at least there's air moving round it. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:07 | |
I don't know. | 0:25:07 | 0:25:08 | |
We're hoping that the trust can find the money | 0:25:08 | 0:25:11 | |
to get the insulation and everything... | 0:25:11 | 0:25:13 | |
-Sooner rather than later. -Yes. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:15 | |
Um, so, we're just haemorrhaging money | 0:25:15 | 0:25:17 | |
on trying to keep this place warm, | 0:25:17 | 0:25:20 | |
where we shouldn't be doing, | 0:25:20 | 0:25:22 | |
you know. | 0:25:22 | 0:25:24 | |
And it's depressing. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:26 | |
Everyone who comes to Fair Isle has to adapt. | 0:25:56 | 0:25:59 | |
When Mati arrived from Venezuela, | 0:25:59 | 0:26:01 | |
her training as an architect wasn't much in demand. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:04 | |
So she took up the traditional Fair Isle craft of knitting instead. | 0:26:06 | 0:26:09 | |
Like some of the other island letters, | 0:26:10 | 0:26:12 | |
she makes a living from what she produces by hand. | 0:26:12 | 0:26:15 | |
But she has plans to expand. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:19 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -What are you doing, Mati? | 0:26:22 | 0:26:23 | |
I'm making a selection of the photographs for the new, | 0:26:23 | 0:26:28 | |
um, online shop. It's going to be my own designs. | 0:26:28 | 0:26:33 | |
They are not knitted here in Fair Isle, so it is a collaboration | 0:26:33 | 0:26:38 | |
with the textile unit in Shetland College. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:41 | |
The idea is to explore manufacturing with an industrial knitting machine | 0:26:41 | 0:26:49 | |
in order to offer a high-quality garment, | 0:26:49 | 0:26:52 | |
but a more affordable price. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:55 | |
We've got all the stock ready, available now. | 0:26:55 | 0:26:59 | |
Labelled and washed and pressed. | 0:26:59 | 0:27:02 | |
So, it's now just a matter of | 0:27:02 | 0:27:04 | |
putting everything together and launch it. | 0:27:04 | 0:27:07 | |
So, see what happens. | 0:27:07 | 0:27:10 | |
The knitting tradition in Fair Isle can be traced back to the 1600s. | 0:27:15 | 0:27:19 | |
Originally made for barter to the passing ships, | 0:27:19 | 0:27:22 | |
it has played an essential part in the island's economy for centuries. | 0:27:22 | 0:27:26 | |
The Bruce Expedition of the Antarctic | 0:27:29 | 0:27:31 | |
went with a lot of Fair Isle jumpers | 0:27:31 | 0:27:33 | |
because James Coates from Paisley ordered | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
100 jumpers and 100 hats and 100 pairs of mittens | 0:27:37 | 0:27:41 | |
and 100 pairs of socks. | 0:27:41 | 0:27:43 | |
So, it was one time in Fair Isle's history when having | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
a house full of daughters must have been a huge asset! | 0:27:46 | 0:27:49 | |
Mati's plans to produce her knitwear industrially | 0:27:50 | 0:27:54 | |
goes against the grain. | 0:27:54 | 0:27:56 | |
Most Fair Isle knitters use these manual knitting machines | 0:27:56 | 0:28:00 | |
and finish off by hand. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:02 | |
They work from home and have no overheads. | 0:28:03 | 0:28:06 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Do you think there's room for | 0:28:07 | 0:28:09 | |
expansion on Fair Isle in regards to the knitwear? | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
I'm sure there is, actually. | 0:28:14 | 0:28:16 | |
I wouldn't like to see it becoming cheap and... | 0:28:16 | 0:28:20 | |
..produced...well, mass produced. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:26 | |
Because I think we are such a small community and, er, | 0:28:26 | 0:28:30 | |
one of the things we've got going for us | 0:28:30 | 0:28:33 | |
is the fact that we are unique. | 0:28:33 | 0:28:35 | |
And I think that we should use that. | 0:28:35 | 0:28:37 | |
It's very easy in a modern world | 0:28:37 | 0:28:40 | |
where everything is now technological | 0:28:40 | 0:28:42 | |
and I could design on a computer and then the machine would churn it out | 0:28:42 | 0:28:47 | |
and then I would have a garment at the end of it, | 0:28:47 | 0:28:50 | |
but I wouldn't have the same sense of, "That's part of me." | 0:28:50 | 0:28:53 | |
It's hand crafted, | 0:28:53 | 0:28:54 | |
and it's the hand-crafted element that makes it | 0:28:54 | 0:28:58 | |
important and special | 0:28:58 | 0:29:00 | |
and not something that might have been bought in Japan. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:03 | |
At Christmas, family and friends return to Fair Isle. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:37 | |
Elena spends time with her granddaughter, | 0:29:38 | 0:29:41 | |
and her husband, Yoan, who's come all the way from Romania. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:45 | |
Fresh! | 0:29:46 | 0:29:47 | |
Ooh! | 0:29:49 | 0:29:51 | |
It is amazing. | 0:29:51 | 0:29:52 | |
Yeah. Yoan fancies himself as a celebrity chef, you see. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:55 | |
They use lots of salt, because this is Romania... | 0:29:55 | 0:29:57 | |
Oh! | 0:29:57 | 0:29:59 | |
-That's OK. -This is Romanian cookery, | 0:29:59 | 0:30:01 | |
-so we use lots of salt. -Carry on. -Oh, dear. | 0:30:01 | 0:30:05 | |
-Don't! -Hypertension, here we come. | 0:30:05 | 0:30:07 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -What are you making, then? -Sarmale, it's called. | 0:30:07 | 0:30:11 | |
Sarmale, yes. | 0:30:11 | 0:30:13 | |
It's what Romanians eat for high days and holy days. | 0:30:13 | 0:30:16 | |
It's always... I breathe a sigh of relief when Yoan turns up | 0:30:16 | 0:30:21 | |
-for Christmas. -Thank you. -Why's that? -Because I don't have to cook. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:24 | |
There's always something bubbling on the stove, | 0:30:24 | 0:30:28 | |
all the time when Yoan's here. | 0:30:28 | 0:30:29 | |
He doesn't live here all the time | 0:30:29 | 0:30:31 | |
because he's a gold miner by trade | 0:30:31 | 0:30:33 | |
and there aren't too many gold mines in Fair Isle. | 0:30:33 | 0:30:36 | |
He looks after our house in Romania | 0:30:37 | 0:30:40 | |
He just comes and demolishes the kitchen here | 0:30:40 | 0:30:43 | |
for Christmas and Easter time. | 0:30:43 | 0:30:45 | |
And I go out there three times a year, | 0:30:45 | 0:30:48 | |
and, er... But, you know, absence makes the heart grow fonder. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:52 | |
Happy Christmas. | 0:30:59 | 0:31:01 | |
There's a sort of bond between people here | 0:31:05 | 0:31:08 | |
which is very difficult to describe. | 0:31:08 | 0:31:11 | |
# Unto us a saviour is born this day. # | 0:31:13 | 0:31:21 | |
It's one of the things that make me really dread leaving here, because of that bond. | 0:31:21 | 0:31:26 | |
And again, I'm not quite sure exactly what it is. | 0:31:26 | 0:31:28 | |
It's not that we all think that everybody is wonderful, | 0:31:28 | 0:31:32 | |
doesn't mean to say that we get on with everybody. | 0:31:32 | 0:31:35 | |
It can mean that we get on each other's nerves, frankly, | 0:31:35 | 0:31:38 | |
from time to time. | 0:31:38 | 0:31:39 | |
But there's a bond somewhere which naturally occurs | 0:31:39 | 0:31:44 | |
among people on an island like this. | 0:31:44 | 0:31:48 | |
# We wish you a merry Christmas and a happy New Year. # | 0:31:48 | 0:31:52 | |
Oh, they're all home. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:04 | |
Lachlan, the eldest, and the three high school children | 0:32:05 | 0:32:08 | |
and my mum and dad have come up as well. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:09 | |
For two weeks. So, busy. | 0:32:09 | 0:32:13 | |
Good fun. | 0:32:13 | 0:32:14 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -How is Ivan getting on? | 0:32:16 | 0:32:18 | |
He's settling in. | 0:32:18 | 0:32:19 | |
It's getting easier. | 0:32:19 | 0:32:21 | |
-He's not there yet. -Got more friends, though. | 0:32:21 | 0:32:23 | |
Yeah. He's had a couple of sleepovers with friends in Lerwick. | 0:32:23 | 0:32:26 | |
It's still hard sometimes, but we get the worst of it. | 0:32:26 | 0:32:29 | |
You know, when he rings home and he's upset, | 0:32:29 | 0:32:31 | |
it's because he's bored and then he gets homesick. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:33 | |
So we're trying to keep him busy. | 0:32:33 | 0:32:35 | |
He's got a few things. He's started football and I think he might... | 0:32:35 | 0:32:39 | |
He's thinking about starting athletics. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:41 | |
Skipper Neall's daughter, Eileen, has flown in from Edinburgh | 0:32:47 | 0:32:50 | |
with the latest addition to the Thompson family. | 0:32:50 | 0:32:53 | |
This is Luca. | 0:32:53 | 0:32:56 | |
This is grandson Luca. | 0:32:56 | 0:32:57 | |
It is Eileen's pretty boy. | 0:32:57 | 0:33:01 | |
And he's, what, four? Three or four months. No? | 0:33:01 | 0:33:04 | |
-Four months, yeah. -Yes. -Four months old. Four months old. | 0:33:04 | 0:33:07 | |
Four months old! Isn't that good fun? | 0:33:08 | 0:33:10 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Is this his first time to Fair Isle? | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
This is his first time to Fair Isle, yeah, yeah. | 0:33:13 | 0:33:16 | |
I always liked growing up here. | 0:33:26 | 0:33:27 | |
I think it was the amount of freedom we had. | 0:33:27 | 0:33:30 | |
When you see it compared to a city life | 0:33:30 | 0:33:32 | |
where you have to watch your kids every second of every day. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:34 | |
Whereas here I can hand the baby to anyone. | 0:33:34 | 0:33:36 | |
You know, it's fine because they're all family or friends. | 0:33:36 | 0:33:39 | |
But I miss the community. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:41 | |
I really miss that. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:43 | |
There we go! | 0:33:44 | 0:33:45 | |
What have you got there, Neal? An airplane? | 0:33:51 | 0:33:54 | |
It's a... | 0:33:57 | 0:33:59 | |
-It is an airplane! -Airplane! | 0:33:59 | 0:34:01 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Have you ever considered coming back to live here? | 0:34:04 | 0:34:07 | |
I think it's something we would think about. | 0:34:07 | 0:34:09 | |
Because we have a baby, I think | 0:34:09 | 0:34:11 | |
our life has probably changed quite a lot. | 0:34:11 | 0:34:13 | |
And priorities change. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:14 | |
It's not an easy thing to do | 0:34:14 | 0:34:16 | |
and I think it's not really an easy decision. | 0:34:16 | 0:34:18 | |
We'd need to think really carefully about it, | 0:34:18 | 0:34:20 | |
but I love being at home. My partner really loves it here, as well. | 0:34:20 | 0:34:23 | |
He feels very comfortable being here. | 0:34:23 | 0:34:24 | |
And certainly for the benefit of Luca | 0:34:24 | 0:34:26 | |
to be here around his family and all the history | 0:34:26 | 0:34:28 | |
that we have here on this island, | 0:34:28 | 0:34:30 | |
it could be a really attractive idea. | 0:34:30 | 0:34:33 | |
I like being home. | 0:34:33 | 0:34:35 | |
Well, isn't that romantic, Dave? | 0:34:35 | 0:34:36 | |
I can see that in your bathroom already. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:41 | |
-Well done. -INTERVIEWER: -Where's Rachel tonight? | 0:34:41 | 0:34:44 | |
She's not feeling very well at the moment. | 0:34:44 | 0:34:46 | |
She's got a really sore throat at the minute, so... | 0:34:46 | 0:34:48 | |
She's stolen the bottle of a child! | 0:34:48 | 0:34:50 | |
-Bit more on the tray up there. -Good girl. | 0:35:20 | 0:35:22 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -And how are you two getting on together then? | 0:35:22 | 0:35:24 | |
So far this year, all of three days of it, it's been good. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:27 | |
And I think it's, you know... | 0:35:29 | 0:35:31 | |
It's difficult, because, you know, | 0:35:32 | 0:35:35 | |
we have good days and we'll have bad days and, you know, | 0:35:35 | 0:35:38 | |
there are times where, or there have been times, | 0:35:38 | 0:35:40 | |
where I think if we weren't here on Fair Isle, it would have been... | 0:35:40 | 0:35:44 | |
It's reached the stage where it would have been very easy for us... | 0:35:44 | 0:35:47 | |
One of us, to have walked away from the situation... | 0:35:47 | 0:35:50 | |
-I'll do it. -..and say, "Right, that's it. | 0:35:52 | 0:35:55 | |
"I've had enough. "I'm moving out." | 0:35:57 | 0:35:58 | |
You know, you haven't got any escape here on the island. | 0:35:58 | 0:36:02 | |
There's nowhere to go. | 0:36:02 | 0:36:03 | |
Even if one of us wanted to leave, I don't have the money to leave. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:07 | |
I can't afford to leave the island, to pay for a removals company, | 0:36:07 | 0:36:11 | |
to find somewhere else to live. | 0:36:11 | 0:36:12 | |
You know, so you kind of have to confront the issue. | 0:36:12 | 0:36:16 | |
Which in simplest terms is, "Do we want to be together?" | 0:36:18 | 0:36:22 | |
Just hook that over. | 0:36:22 | 0:36:23 | |
Just chuck it over for now. We'll get it on the way out. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:28 | |
You know, Christmas itself wasn't brilliant. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:30 | |
We didn't have a great day, Christmas Day, or... | 0:36:30 | 0:36:32 | |
We didn't have a day, Christmas Day, did we? | 0:36:32 | 0:36:34 | |
Well, obviously it was a Christmas Day. | 0:36:34 | 0:36:36 | |
Well, just another day. | 0:36:36 | 0:36:38 | |
Well, yeah. | 0:36:38 | 0:36:40 | |
You know, Christmas Day is what you make it, | 0:36:41 | 0:36:43 | |
but it wasn't for us as a couple, it wasn't... | 0:36:43 | 0:36:46 | |
..you know, a wholly successful day. | 0:36:47 | 0:36:50 | |
There wasn't anything successful on that day. | 0:36:50 | 0:36:52 | |
I had a nice day. | 0:36:52 | 0:36:53 | |
Do you want to go in? | 0:36:53 | 0:36:55 | |
Rachel. You can't stand here. | 0:36:56 | 0:36:59 | |
I know, that's why I'm going. | 0:36:59 | 0:37:01 | |
In spite of all the arguments | 0:37:02 | 0:37:05 | |
and the differences between us and our opinions on things and all that, | 0:37:05 | 0:37:12 | |
I think, you know, we do want to be together. | 0:37:12 | 0:37:14 | |
And we'd like to try and make that work. | 0:37:14 | 0:37:18 | |
And, you know, long term, whether it does or it doesn't, I've no idea, | 0:37:18 | 0:37:22 | |
but I think we'd like to give it the best shot. | 0:37:22 | 0:37:25 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Would you like to make it work, Sean? -Yeah. | 0:37:26 | 0:37:29 | |
Oh, God. | 0:37:30 | 0:37:32 | |
Mum, why did you keep the door open yesterday? | 0:37:50 | 0:37:53 | |
-Bye, love. -Bye. | 0:37:56 | 0:37:57 | |
Have a good day. | 0:37:57 | 0:37:58 | |
Mati's website selling her machine-produced knitwear | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
is doing brisk business. But the internet means | 0:38:05 | 0:38:08 | |
she can keep an eye on what's happening elsewhere, | 0:38:08 | 0:38:11 | |
and pictures of a recent Chanel launch have caught her attention. | 0:38:11 | 0:38:15 | |
Yeah, that's my garment and this is a copy that Chanel did. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:20 | |
It's pretty much the same. | 0:38:20 | 0:38:22 | |
So, yeah. | 0:38:22 | 0:38:24 | |
It was great because I thought, "Oh, God, it really looks good." | 0:38:24 | 0:38:28 | |
But then it was like, "OK. | 0:38:29 | 0:38:34 | |
"What do I do now?" | 0:38:34 | 0:38:36 | |
That shouldn't really be there, because it's my design. | 0:38:36 | 0:38:40 | |
I had a lot of people on social media were quite aggressive. | 0:38:40 | 0:38:44 | |
Which was not... | 0:38:44 | 0:38:46 | |
-I mean... -INTERVIEWER: -Saying what? | 0:38:46 | 0:38:49 | |
"You should sue them" and, "That's what they always do." | 0:38:49 | 0:38:53 | |
And, you know, "Always big fashion houses taking advantage." | 0:38:53 | 0:38:57 | |
And I thought, actually, I don't feel like that. | 0:38:57 | 0:39:00 | |
I don't really care about the money. | 0:39:00 | 0:39:02 | |
This is not about that. This is about awareness. | 0:39:02 | 0:39:05 | |
This is about knowing, you know, that there is a heritage, | 0:39:05 | 0:39:09 | |
a Scottish, very, very rich heritage. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:12 | |
I have had people that have looked at my website and said, | 0:39:13 | 0:39:17 | |
"Is that a place?" | 0:39:17 | 0:39:19 | |
And I'm like, "Yes. Fair Isle is actually an island. | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
"A very small one, but it is an island | 0:39:22 | 0:39:25 | |
"and that's where those patterns and those garments originated." | 0:39:25 | 0:39:29 | |
Two more, then. | 0:39:46 | 0:39:48 | |
That fuel is all just for heating. | 0:39:50 | 0:39:52 | |
Mostly for heating and generating the island's power scheme. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:56 | |
But the windmill got zapped with lightning, | 0:39:56 | 0:39:59 | |
so it's out of order at the moment, | 0:39:59 | 0:40:01 | |
and the direct result of that is | 0:40:01 | 0:40:04 | |
we have three times as many barrels coming. | 0:40:04 | 0:40:07 | |
Which, you know, that much more fuel getting burned. | 0:40:07 | 0:40:11 | |
It's not good for us and it's not good for the environment | 0:40:11 | 0:40:14 | |
and the whole thing, you know. | 0:40:14 | 0:40:16 | |
Before the turbine was damaged by lightning, | 0:40:26 | 0:40:28 | |
when the wind blew, the power was cheap. | 0:40:28 | 0:40:31 | |
And when the wind stopped, the generators took over... | 0:40:33 | 0:40:36 | |
..burning expensive diesel fuel | 0:40:38 | 0:40:40 | |
to power and heat all the homes on the island. | 0:40:40 | 0:40:43 | |
We restrict the use of diesel power | 0:40:45 | 0:40:48 | |
from 7.30 in the morning to 11.30 at night. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:51 | |
Unless we are on wind power, then it just... | 0:40:52 | 0:40:55 | |
It'll stay on 24 hours a day if we are on wind generation. | 0:40:55 | 0:40:58 | |
It's vital the islanders get this broken turbine repaired | 0:40:59 | 0:41:03 | |
as soon as possible. But it's a tall order, | 0:41:03 | 0:41:06 | |
requiring as many hands as can be mustered. | 0:41:06 | 0:41:08 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -How long has it not been working? | 0:41:13 | 0:41:15 | |
About four months. Four months, isn't it? | 0:41:15 | 0:41:17 | |
Four months it's been out of commission, yeah. | 0:41:17 | 0:41:19 | |
The trouble is, like, I mean, it's like this. | 0:41:19 | 0:41:21 | |
You need the perfect day and you need the people to do it. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:24 | |
So, you just have to wait for it all to come together at the right time. | 0:41:24 | 0:41:27 | |
This is the way we've always done it, because you can't | 0:41:30 | 0:41:33 | |
get cranes and stuff and all that on this island, | 0:41:33 | 0:41:35 | |
so you have no choice but to do it this way. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:37 | |
How much longer will it take? | 0:42:13 | 0:42:15 | |
A couple of hours. What time is it now? | 0:42:15 | 0:42:17 | |
25 to... Yeah, maybe an hour. | 0:42:17 | 0:42:19 | |
Maybe. It depends. | 0:42:19 | 0:42:20 | |
Depends how fast I put them through their paces, eh? | 0:42:20 | 0:42:23 | |
Come on, boys. Come on. Oh, God, Derek, | 0:42:23 | 0:42:25 | |
you've got an hour to catch up! | 0:42:25 | 0:42:27 | |
The community have big plans to upgrade their entire power system. | 0:42:29 | 0:42:33 | |
They've secured £200,000 of funding, | 0:42:34 | 0:42:37 | |
but the sustainable system they want could cost nearly three million. | 0:42:37 | 0:42:41 | |
If it's completed, all of the island's | 0:42:42 | 0:42:45 | |
essential services will benefit, | 0:42:45 | 0:42:47 | |
and so will the Fair Islanders themselves. | 0:42:47 | 0:42:50 | |
It's hard to do your knitting in the dark. | 0:42:52 | 0:42:54 | |
Chanel have been in touch with Mati | 0:42:56 | 0:42:59 | |
to apologise for the mix-up in copying her design | 0:42:59 | 0:43:02 | |
and have offered her an opportunity to work for them. | 0:43:02 | 0:43:05 | |
When Chanel, er... | 0:43:06 | 0:43:11 | |
accidentally copied the design, | 0:43:11 | 0:43:14 | |
one of the things that was on offer was that if there was | 0:43:14 | 0:43:19 | |
a demand for the garment, they could place an order with me. | 0:43:19 | 0:43:24 | |
And I can't do it because I don't have the capabilities. | 0:43:24 | 0:43:29 | |
For the last two years, | 0:43:29 | 0:43:31 | |
Mati has been travelling back and forward | 0:43:31 | 0:43:33 | |
to the textiles department at Shetland College, | 0:43:33 | 0:43:36 | |
who are making knitwear for her website | 0:43:36 | 0:43:38 | |
using an industrial knitting machine. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:41 | |
She would like to see a similar machine at work on Fair Isle. | 0:43:42 | 0:43:45 | |
But it wouldn't produce | 0:43:47 | 0:43:48 | |
the pure, handcrafted knitwear the Isle is famous for. | 0:43:48 | 0:43:51 | |
My idea is that that machine will supply retailers and online shops. | 0:43:52 | 0:43:58 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Will you still hand-knit? | 0:43:58 | 0:44:00 | |
Definitely. I mean, the most important part | 0:44:00 | 0:44:03 | |
of my business is my bespoke service. | 0:44:03 | 0:44:05 | |
That's my aim, that one day we could have hand-knitting, | 0:44:05 | 0:44:09 | |
handcrafted and the industrial one | 0:44:09 | 0:44:12 | |
all working together to support the economy of the island. | 0:44:12 | 0:44:16 | |
I would love to see you up and doing everything on the Fair Isle. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:20 | |
Very quickly. | 0:44:20 | 0:44:22 | |
Very quickly! | 0:44:22 | 0:44:23 | |
Yeah. Well, you know, if you can | 0:44:24 | 0:44:27 | |
employ three, four, five people, | 0:44:27 | 0:44:31 | |
and those four, five people are earning a living. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:35 | |
You know... | 0:44:35 | 0:44:36 | |
Not just getting by, as you said, but earning a living. | 0:44:36 | 0:44:39 | |
You know, then that's good. It's all been worthwhile. | 0:44:39 | 0:44:43 | |
It's now April, so, we're well into... | 0:44:56 | 0:45:00 | |
Well, getting into spring now, | 0:45:00 | 0:45:02 | |
and we've actually started lambing now. | 0:45:02 | 0:45:06 | |
This is the nitty-gritty of it and... | 0:45:09 | 0:45:11 | |
Mm, mm-hm. It's quite nice. Everything in the year, | 0:45:11 | 0:45:15 | |
this is sort of the culmination of it. Everything leads to lambing. | 0:45:15 | 0:45:19 | |
Oh, well done. | 0:45:28 | 0:45:29 | |
Nearly there. | 0:45:33 | 0:45:34 | |
Good girl. Good girl, Brenda. | 0:45:34 | 0:45:37 | |
Good girl. | 0:45:40 | 0:45:41 | |
Oh, Brenda, yay. Good girl. | 0:45:44 | 0:45:46 | |
Look at that big, fat lamb. | 0:45:46 | 0:45:48 | |
Look at it. | 0:45:48 | 0:45:49 | |
Good girl. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:51 | |
Good girl. | 0:45:52 | 0:45:54 | |
Lambing is in full swing. | 0:45:54 | 0:45:56 | |
But in Sean and Rachel's house, | 0:45:56 | 0:45:58 | |
the list of small domestic disasters is getting longer. | 0:45:58 | 0:46:02 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -OK. So, what's happened here then? | 0:46:03 | 0:46:05 | |
Basically, as you can see, | 0:46:05 | 0:46:08 | |
the entire wall units came crashing down. | 0:46:08 | 0:46:11 | |
Just a little thing to put in a box of... | 0:46:11 | 0:46:13 | |
Well, it's not a little thing. | 0:46:13 | 0:46:15 | |
I think there's been several major things with the house | 0:46:15 | 0:46:18 | |
and it's, you know, up to here with it, quite frankly. | 0:46:18 | 0:46:22 | |
-It's not being on the island, it's not living on the island. -No. | 0:46:22 | 0:46:25 | |
-We don't want to not be here. -We don't want to move off the island | 0:46:25 | 0:46:27 | |
-or anything like that. -But do I want to continue living in this house? | 0:46:27 | 0:46:31 | |
No. I hate this house, quite frankly. | 0:46:31 | 0:46:33 | |
Do we want to keep putting our efforts into this place for... | 0:46:33 | 0:46:36 | |
..even more belongings of ours to get broken now? | 0:46:38 | 0:46:41 | |
You know, it's... | 0:46:41 | 0:46:43 | |
-It's that fact, isn't it, now? -DISTANT BARKING | 0:46:43 | 0:46:45 | |
Oh, what are those pissing dogs barking at? Sorry. | 0:46:45 | 0:46:49 | |
BARKING | 0:46:49 | 0:46:51 | |
-Morning. -Morning. | 0:46:58 | 0:47:00 | |
Put all your stuff here, please. | 0:47:02 | 0:47:04 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -What's Ivan like when he goes now? | 0:47:07 | 0:47:09 | |
Just normal now when he goes. Just like the others. | 0:47:09 | 0:47:11 | |
Yeah, just like with the others now. Yeah. "Bye, Mum. Bye, Dad." | 0:47:11 | 0:47:14 | |
-Sometimes he's a bit clingy the day before, actually, isn't he? -Yeah. | 0:47:14 | 0:47:17 | |
-But not bad. -Just thinking about it. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:19 | |
-How long's it been, then? Since he left? -August, September, November, | 0:47:23 | 0:47:26 | |
-December, January, February... -Last August, yeah. | 0:47:26 | 0:47:28 | |
March, April. Yeah, eight months. | 0:47:28 | 0:47:29 | |
As much as it's very hard for us to have our children go away, | 0:47:31 | 0:47:34 | |
I don't think many of us would think | 0:47:34 | 0:47:36 | |
it would be beneficial to keep them here until they're 15. | 0:47:36 | 0:47:39 | |
You know, they need to see a bigger... | 0:47:39 | 0:47:40 | |
Well, it's important for them | 0:47:40 | 0:47:42 | |
to get their social interaction, you know, in the wider world, you know. | 0:47:42 | 0:47:45 | |
Coming somewhere like Tesco's really big, | 0:47:47 | 0:47:50 | |
because we're not used it on Fair Isle. | 0:47:50 | 0:47:53 | |
You hardly see three cars in the same place, | 0:47:53 | 0:47:55 | |
but you come somewhere like this and there's traffic jams | 0:47:55 | 0:47:58 | |
and traffic lights | 0:47:58 | 0:47:59 | |
and shops are, like, much bigger and it's really busy. | 0:47:59 | 0:48:04 | |
And it's weird, but you get more used to it. | 0:48:04 | 0:48:06 | |
-Oh. They sell ketchup! -So many people. | 0:48:06 | 0:48:09 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Do you find it intimidating or anything? | 0:48:11 | 0:48:13 | |
-That it's so busy. -No. | 0:48:13 | 0:48:15 | |
I like seeing a lot of people. | 0:48:16 | 0:48:18 | |
I like people. | 0:48:20 | 0:48:22 | |
There's probably more people in the shop | 0:48:22 | 0:48:24 | |
-than there is on Fair Isle. -Yeah. | 0:48:24 | 0:48:25 | |
What is the population of Fair Isle? | 0:48:27 | 0:48:28 | |
-It's about... -57. -Do you know that? | 0:48:28 | 0:48:31 | |
What can you see? How many people can you see right now? | 0:48:31 | 0:48:34 | |
-Don't count. -Count. -OK, fine, count them. | 0:48:34 | 0:48:36 | |
Is it easier for you guys now that it's easier for him? | 0:48:37 | 0:48:40 | |
-Oh, yes. -If it's easier for him, | 0:48:40 | 0:48:41 | |
-it's easier for us instantly. -Oh, yeah, fabulous. -Yeah. | 0:48:41 | 0:48:43 | |
And even when it was bad, he still didn't want to change it. | 0:48:45 | 0:48:48 | |
He still wanted... | 0:48:48 | 0:48:50 | |
That was the situation and he wanted to still live here, | 0:48:50 | 0:48:53 | |
so he could go to the hostel. | 0:48:53 | 0:48:54 | |
-Yeah. -He was just learning to deal with it. | 0:48:54 | 0:48:56 | |
48. | 0:48:58 | 0:49:00 | |
Oh, no, hold on. | 0:49:00 | 0:49:02 | |
-57. -57. | 0:49:03 | 0:49:04 | |
That's the population of Fair Isle! Oh, my God. | 0:49:04 | 0:49:07 | |
This is our new kitchen unit, | 0:49:23 | 0:49:25 | |
since everything fell off the wall. | 0:49:25 | 0:49:27 | |
So, at least it's handy. | 0:49:27 | 0:49:30 | |
At least I can see stuff. What I've got. | 0:49:30 | 0:49:33 | |
Um, a bit bare now, | 0:49:34 | 0:49:37 | |
on the wall. | 0:49:37 | 0:49:39 | |
But, yeah, we have a toaster that works, at least. | 0:49:40 | 0:49:44 | |
This is Sean's room, in here. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:48 | |
Very neat. | 0:49:50 | 0:49:52 | |
And then this is my room. | 0:49:53 | 0:49:55 | |
The door doesn't open properly because it's broken. | 0:49:58 | 0:50:01 | |
So, erm... | 0:50:01 | 0:50:02 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -How long have you been in separate rooms? -Oh, months. | 0:50:04 | 0:50:08 | |
Months and months. Mainly because Sean insists on sleeping | 0:50:08 | 0:50:11 | |
with the three dogs and as many cats as want to go in there. | 0:50:11 | 0:50:15 | |
You know, there are times when both of us have said, you know, | 0:50:16 | 0:50:20 | |
"We can't carry on living together." | 0:50:20 | 0:50:22 | |
We're having a row and, you know, but... | 0:50:22 | 0:50:25 | |
-People say things, don't they? -We both want to be here. | 0:50:25 | 0:50:28 | |
-We both want to be on Fair Isle. -Yeah. | 0:50:28 | 0:50:30 | |
Neither of us wants to give that up any time soon. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:33 | |
But, what is the alternative? | 0:50:33 | 0:50:37 | |
You know, if one of us moves out of here, | 0:50:37 | 0:50:40 | |
there is nowhere for them to move on Fair Isle. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:43 | |
There is no alternative accommodation. | 0:50:43 | 0:50:46 | |
You know, it would mean one of us having to move somewhere else, | 0:50:46 | 0:50:52 | |
off island, which isn't something either of us wants to do. | 0:50:52 | 0:50:56 | |
You know, we both have our different jobs here on the island. | 0:50:56 | 0:50:59 | |
You know, we're both part of the community. | 0:51:01 | 0:51:05 | |
Um... | 0:51:05 | 0:51:06 | |
It's not something... | 0:51:07 | 0:51:09 | |
..you know, we do want to give up, | 0:51:10 | 0:51:11 | |
whether that's individually or as a couple. | 0:51:11 | 0:51:14 | |
Um, so, you know, to a certain extent, | 0:51:14 | 0:51:18 | |
we're kind of, we're stuck with each other. | 0:51:18 | 0:51:21 | |
-She says that... -Are still a couple? | 0:51:23 | 0:51:26 | |
Or are you just housemates? | 0:51:26 | 0:51:28 | |
I... I know... | 0:51:29 | 0:51:32 | |
I think we're a couple. I know we're a couple. | 0:51:32 | 0:51:34 | |
There are people who live here who no longer wish to live together. | 0:51:43 | 0:51:47 | |
And there are people who don't live here, who really wish they could. | 0:51:50 | 0:51:53 | |
Houses on Fair Isle are in short supply. | 0:51:55 | 0:51:58 | |
The National Trust for Scotland are still trying to find enough money | 0:51:59 | 0:52:03 | |
to make homes for new families to move here. | 0:52:03 | 0:52:05 | |
But an unexpected door has opened for Neal's daughter, Eileen. | 0:52:08 | 0:52:11 | |
Some of her relatives have decided to leave, | 0:52:12 | 0:52:15 | |
and they've signed their house and croft over to Eileen and her family. | 0:52:15 | 0:52:19 | |
The affordability of living in a beautiful house there | 0:52:22 | 0:52:25 | |
and having land around us, | 0:52:25 | 0:52:27 | |
compared to managing in a two-bedroom flat in the city... | 0:52:27 | 0:52:30 | |
..is going to be much easier. | 0:52:31 | 0:52:33 | |
And we want more children and there's just no room here. | 0:52:33 | 0:52:35 | |
So, hopefully, at the end of this year, | 0:52:35 | 0:52:37 | |
we'll be leaving Edinburgh and starting a new life back up at home. | 0:52:37 | 0:52:41 | |
And I just love where I come from. I miss it. I really miss the island, | 0:52:42 | 0:52:45 | |
and Gishermo loves it, too. | 0:52:45 | 0:52:46 | |
It's now a year and a half since | 0:53:01 | 0:53:03 | |
Sean and Rachel moved into their croft house, and a lot has happened. | 0:53:03 | 0:53:08 | |
The damp room has been fixed. | 0:53:08 | 0:53:10 | |
There's no new kitchen cupboards yet and there is something else missing. | 0:53:10 | 0:53:15 | |
Sean and I are no longer together. | 0:53:17 | 0:53:19 | |
Um, we split up quite a few months back. | 0:53:19 | 0:53:22 | |
Um, so I've stayed here in the croft. | 0:53:22 | 0:53:26 | |
Sean's moved out. He's still on the island. | 0:53:26 | 0:53:29 | |
He has a house a little way down the island now. | 0:53:29 | 0:53:32 | |
Um, so I'm just kind of here on my own | 0:53:32 | 0:53:35 | |
and I'm running the croft and the sheep on my own, so... | 0:53:35 | 0:53:39 | |
with help from my neighbours. | 0:53:39 | 0:53:41 | |
Too much difference between us. | 0:53:41 | 0:53:43 | |
We weren't actually, you know, on the same page with a lot of things. | 0:53:43 | 0:53:49 | |
So...neither of us wanted to leave. | 0:53:49 | 0:53:53 | |
You know, it was all looking as if I was going to have to leave. | 0:53:53 | 0:53:57 | |
And then, just by... | 0:53:57 | 0:54:00 | |
..a miracle, somewhere became available. | 0:54:01 | 0:54:05 | |
There are two small council properties on Fair Isle | 0:54:05 | 0:54:08 | |
and again, unexpectedly, one has become vacant. | 0:54:08 | 0:54:12 | |
So, Sean has managed to stay on the Isle. | 0:54:12 | 0:54:14 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Why did you want to stay? | 0:54:16 | 0:54:18 | |
Because this is the magic of this place. | 0:54:18 | 0:54:20 | |
It is still the community, er, feel and... | 0:54:20 | 0:54:24 | |
..that overwhelming feeling of, "I've found home." | 0:54:26 | 0:54:30 | |
Sean and Rachel may not be a couple any more, | 0:54:33 | 0:54:36 | |
but they have both become a big part of the community. | 0:54:36 | 0:54:39 | |
Fair Isle coastguard Alpha. | 0:54:39 | 0:54:41 | |
They each have several essential island jobs. | 0:54:41 | 0:54:43 | |
And Rachel is continuing to run the croft on her own. | 0:54:46 | 0:54:50 | |
You feel like you're part of something. | 0:54:50 | 0:54:53 | |
You feel like you're making a difference | 0:54:53 | 0:54:55 | |
and you belong to something. | 0:54:55 | 0:54:57 | |
I'm so glad I'm here. You know, | 0:54:58 | 0:55:01 | |
I can't actually imagine living anywhere else now. | 0:55:01 | 0:55:05 | |
You know, I wake up every morning looking out on this view... | 0:55:06 | 0:55:09 | |
..and knowing the people out there are always going to still help you, | 0:55:10 | 0:55:17 | |
regardless of what happens. | 0:55:17 | 0:55:18 | |
They're still going to be there for you | 0:55:18 | 0:55:20 | |
and they're still going to care about you. | 0:55:20 | 0:55:23 | |
And just the way of life here. | 0:55:26 | 0:55:27 | |
It's just fantastic. | 0:55:27 | 0:55:30 | |
It's a different world. | 0:55:30 | 0:55:31 | |
-INTERVIEWER: -Can you remember a moment where you thought, | 0:55:43 | 0:55:47 | |
"I love living here"? | 0:55:47 | 0:55:48 | |
Where were you? What were you doing? Have you ever thought that? | 0:55:49 | 0:55:52 | |
-Oh, I've thought that lots of times. -Yeah. A lot. | 0:55:52 | 0:55:55 | |
The whole notion of thinking, | 0:55:59 | 0:56:02 | |
"Wow, this is a lovely place to be" | 0:56:02 | 0:56:05 | |
I think has just always been there. | 0:56:05 | 0:56:08 | |
If I go for a walk on the cliffs, I can have... | 0:56:15 | 0:56:19 | |
..you know, there's a hush, as it were. | 0:56:21 | 0:56:23 | |
You don't have to think about anything. | 0:56:23 | 0:56:25 | |
You don't have to, um... | 0:56:25 | 0:56:27 | |
..you don't have to worry about anything. | 0:56:28 | 0:56:31 | |
Hundreds of people have paths in this island, | 0:56:37 | 0:56:42 | |
and the island continues to | 0:56:42 | 0:56:45 | |
be that something and carry its own heritage. | 0:56:45 | 0:56:49 | |
And as soon as you move to live here, you learn to do it. | 0:56:50 | 0:56:55 | |
Whether it's the sheep, or the knitting, or lobster catching... | 0:57:03 | 0:57:08 | |
..you just learn. | 0:57:09 | 0:57:11 | |
So, it belongs to the island. | 0:57:12 | 0:57:15 | |
A lot of things do. | 0:57:15 | 0:57:16 | |
We come and we go and the things are still there. | 0:57:21 | 0:57:25 | |
That's why every day there's something | 0:57:27 | 0:57:30 | |
that makes me feel I love being here. | 0:57:30 | 0:57:33 | |
Every day. | 0:57:33 | 0:57:35 |