The African Dragon New Wales


The African Dragon

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The journey of Gbubemi Amas has taken him from southern Nigeria

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to a very Welsh village about 20 kilometres northwest of Swansea

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which he now calls home.

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-I'm free range, because they go away over the fields.

-Yes!

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Come on!

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They are great for their eggs.

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I could be coming to ask you for one or two, then.

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Yeah!

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-This really gets my deep, deep umbilical cord.

-That's right.

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This takes me back to when I was young.

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Oh, it's so beautiful.

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Amas has embraced Welsh culture.

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Fresh cawl has become one of his all-time favourite dishes.

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It reminds him of goat soup from West Africa.

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-Champion!

-He's torn between support for the Ospreys

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-and the Scarlets.

-I'm scarlet!

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If you show some respect to your hosts

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and appreciation of who they are

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and you don't only come just to tell them what do you think they should be

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it becomes a lot easier.

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But 12 kilometres away from his new home

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in the coal-mining valleys of South Wales,

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a town elected its first BNP councillor in 2008.

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Different countries have their BNPs.

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We don't care where they're coming from,

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this country is full and it's time to shut the door!

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'The BNP is an extreme party.'

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They are believing in the fears they have

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and, sometimes, these fears might be real to them.

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Act one, scene one, from the top.

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Amas is an Nigerian musician and writer on a one-man mission

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to prove that encounters between Welsh and African culture

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can change people's lives for the better.

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I've never worked with an African director before.

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# Come together now... #

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'That's kind of been my life's work, working with younger people.'

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# It's a better world we're all living in... #

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When not producing a play,

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Amas might be painting,

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making sculpture, composing music

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or working as a consultant with community groups across Wales.

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AFRICAN DRUMMING

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Amas and his wife Oby moved to the UK from Nigeria in 2000.

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In 2003, they faced a new challenge -

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becoming the first African family

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to settle in the South Wales village of Cross Hands.

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DRUMMING CONTINUES

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Amas, a one-man publicity machine,

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is spreading the word about the approaching premiere of his play

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to Cross Hands' shopkeepers and neighbours.

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I don't get ill often, touch wood,

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but I guess they'll remember my face.

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Is Cross Hands - a village which got its name

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for being a prisoner transit point between Carmarthen and Swansea -

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ready for a challenging new vision of Welsh/African relations?

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-How are you?

-Fine, thanks.

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I'd like to leave a poster for a play that I wrote.

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HE LAUGHS

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Now, let's see if the chemist...

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It looks open, should be open till six, I guess.

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-Yeah, we'll sort that out.

-OK. You're looking well.

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I have never had any trouble in Cross Hands

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and it's quite a very peaceful neighbourhood

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and people are quite friendly.

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BUS TOOTS HORN

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Hey! How you?

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If you're stand-offish

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and you don't seem to blend in the community you get into,

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that's your fault, I would say.

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-Hello.

-Hello.

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This is a very good restaurant.

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I stepped up from vindaloo...

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-To phaal.

-To phaal.

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So I'm all spiced up now.

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A pint?

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These neighbours remember the day

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that Amas and Oby moved into the village.

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Remember the removal van coming, yes.

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Yeah, I think you must have been the first one to come.

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-African?

-African, yes.

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They voted him in.

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LAUGHTER

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Because he brought money into the...

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I remember him coming here.

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-I remember you coming here, and your wife...

-Oh, yes.

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..coming here, when Obama was voted in

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-as President of the USA.

-Yes, that's true.

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I remember you coming in, and "It's a day to celebrate," you said.

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-That's right.

-True?

-Very, very true.

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Amas was commissioned to write and direct a play

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by the Mess Up The Mess Theatre Workshop.

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It's a Lottery-funded showcase for young acting talent in Wales.

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It's a love story with universal themes, modern-day problems

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and an Afro/Welsh twist.

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Plays and scripts are an excuse for you to explore.

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The casting call was for a play

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unlike anything these teenage actors had ever encountered.

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We have just one Belcher, we need a second Belcher.

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The young cast is expected to make at least a two-month commitment

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to a play that introduces a culture they know little or nothing about.

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OK, Katunges, can you stay close to Katunge?

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He told us that he came from Africa

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and he'd be directing our new show.

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I'd never worked with an African director before.

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Read the script!

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We didn't know Amas at all, so when he came in,

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he was like, "Amas," and we were like, "All right, mate!"

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We always are sarcastic when someone we don't know walks in, so you know.

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I have missed you so much. How was school today?

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The heart of the story

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is an intercultural, interracial romance.

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Katunge, an African boy,

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and Gwendolyn, a Welsh girl, fall in love.

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I'm sorry, I got upset. You know I love you.

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The story does not unfold in predominantly white Wales

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or in predominantly black Africa

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but in a fictional country called Walganda

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where racial divisions no longer confine friendships.

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The issues of intercultural marriages now

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is no more a big deal.

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This is my fertility maiden.

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That's what it's called.

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Mixed-race children

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are the largest-growing racial group in the UK today.

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But mixed-race couples didn't always have it so easy,

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as Amas' wife Oby can testify.

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I grew up in Nigeria. I was born in Nigeria

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to a Nigerian father and a white British mother.

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My parents met in the '50s

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when my father came to the United Kingdom to study.

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'He was an engineering student

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'and he met my mother, she was studying chemistry.'

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Racism was rife at the time they met.

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So there was this young black boy going out with a young white woman

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and it wasn't very easy for them.

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After their wedding, my father took my mother back to Nigeria

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and that's where I was born.

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Amas the art student and Oby the law student

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met at university in Nigeria.

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They eventually married, had a couple of kids

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and in 2000 decided to try life in the UK.

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This time, we felt, "OK, we need to have a change of scene

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"and give the children a choice as well."

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The children decided to attend university in Swansea.

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Swansea has long been a magnet for Nigerian and international students.

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Oby's brother is a law professor at Swansea University.

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MUSIC, SINGING

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Swansea has one of the larger Nigerian communities outside London.

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Swansea being a university town, that really helped.

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I would probably say about 60% are from Nigeria

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who are part of our congregation.

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From multi-national Swansea,

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Amas and Oby moved to Cross Hands.

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A backlash to immigration resounded loudly

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during the last general election.

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Whether it's Islamic immigration, coloured of any sort,

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whether it's the Poles who've flooded this country,

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this country is full and it's time to shut the door!

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CHEERING

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Back in 2008, the town of Llandybie,

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about 12 miles west of Cross Hands,

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elected its first BNP councillor.

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Different countries have their BNPs

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and they say, "Oh, these guys are coming to take our jobs,

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"oh, corner shops all over the place..."

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I used to own a jazz club in Swansea

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and I remember once, a guy came to the club, we served him a beer

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and he came over to me and showed me his arm

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and peeled it up and the sign "BNP" was there.

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He said, "Do you know what that means?" I say, "Yeah."

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"So, you know what that means?" I say, "Yeah!"

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I say, "Yeah, but you're welcome here."

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He kept coming back!

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Last year, there were over 1,900 racist incidents

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reported in South Wales.

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I reckon that if I had gone, "Oh, you're not allowed in here!

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"Get out! Blah blah blah,"

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then he would get satisfaction from, "Oh, I've shaken one guy.

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"Who's next?"

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My wife Oby, all she might have faced is institutional racism,

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where it is not a single person coming to you in your face,

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it's a case of, you are a lawyer, you are very qualified

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and you can't get a job.

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All you can get is a cleaning job, if you're lucky.

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I came full of enthusiasm,

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thinking, "Oh, I can easily get a job, I've got qualifications."

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It does something to your confidence

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to come in thinking you're qualified to do a job

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and then finding that no-one really thinks you are!

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Oby was a magistrate in Nigeria with the potential of becoming a judge

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but in Britain she was considered unqualified to practise law.

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She has since passed the UK bar exam

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and now works as a planning manager for the NHS.

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In between play rehearsals, Amas and Oby occasionally team up

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to bring the sounds and tastes of Africa to the Welsh Valleys.

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This bridge-building soiree

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is part of a Welsh Assembly scheme called Communities First.

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It's the first of its kind at the Newbridge Rugby Club,

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about 60 kilometres east of Cross Hands.

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Different cultures are coming into the valleys.

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People are not used to it

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and it can affect more of the older generation, with change, really.

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When trouble starts, they associate it with that.

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They just want to keep their valleys Welsh.

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My grandson says to me, "You're European,"

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and I say, "No, I'm not, I'm Welsh!"

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We've got our own culture.

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But I feel now, as an older person,

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that they're taking all that away from us,

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our chapels, our everything.

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Because we're having an influx of different nationalities,

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all our customs are going away.

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APPLAUSE

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Thank you!

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Amas and Oby see their mission

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to enrich, not endanger, another culture.

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OK, let's take it again and let's have more volume.

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I missed you very much. How was school today?

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I have a lead part,

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a shepherd named Katunge,

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meaning "rich" or something like that.

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'What made it doubly interesting was

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'Katunge was being played by a Welsh boy.'

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The very name "Katunge", that's a totally different tongue formation!

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An experience with a different spice could virtually change your day!

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-How was school today?

-It was fine.

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'It's an injection which now begins to grow inside them.'

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So you're now a vet!

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You don't need to go to school to learn about animals!

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It makes the world smaller.

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With MY experience as a shepherd, I can show you how.

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With my EXPERIENCE as a SHEPHERD,

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I can show you HOW!

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'Katunge in the play is a cattle-rearer boy

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'whose father is very rich.'

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Take it again. Project, project.

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'Now Gwendolyn is a lovely Welsh girl

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'who was more prone to going to school'

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and Katunge felt it was a better life

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to be in the fields and tend the cows and get engaged with nature

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and that was where the problem started.

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'It was a bit of a mixture of

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'things that happen in Wales and happen in Uganda,

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'and it was just going through their life a bit, really.

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What are you sorry about?

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-I dropped it.

-Yeah, but you're not.

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She missed Katunge a lot when she wasn't with them,

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and he missed her a lot,

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but they thought they were taking it too fast.

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GIRL WAILS

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The love story unfolds against a backdrop of deep poverty

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and a local industry causing massive pollution.

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He's not going to die.

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Not exactly light entertainment

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but themes that echo personal experiences of Amas

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as well as harsh realities in Wales today.

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Are you coming with me or what? My mates will be here in one minute.

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'It was about two young people'

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who had lots of problems in their lives

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and I was one of their problems.

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'I don't like pollution

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'so when I come on stage for the first time, I'm yelling...'

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I'm tired of this shit pollution and all these crops dying

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and no food, and no money, and all these kids following me around.

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"Blah blah blah," all that. It gets on my nerves!

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I don't like pollution in my world.

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Well, there's a group of people called Yobs

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and they decide to protest towards Mr Belcher.

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Ladies and gentlemen!

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The plants bring jobs, the incinerator even more jobs.

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The investors need to see profit.

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The chairman deserves a big bonus.

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-CHILDREN:

-No, no, no!

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Belcher! Shut your stinking mouth and sit down!

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They protest so much that

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he decides to reduce the carbon emissions at the plant.

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Amas witnessed first-hand

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how pollution can destroy lives and communities.

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Where I come from,

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in the Delta region in Nigeria,

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there's loads of waters and fishing,

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it's quite easy to access food, like crayfish...

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until the oil companies came, though, and all the water got polluted.

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My village, Dali, in Warri,

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had fish coming up belly-up.

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I had a first-hand observation and experience

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of how pollution could really affect the environment

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and therefore the people, their feeding patterns,

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their economy, their lives, the whole thing, the fabric.

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So in the play, it was quite easy for me to tap into that root.

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And also coal mining, that for me is quite tricky.

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This day, I'm still trying to look into

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whether coal-mining is really wrong or right.

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Amas' new home in Cross Hands

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is also a community that has lost its traditional means of livelihood.

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It's a history as close as his own backyard,

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a history that was lived by his neighbour, Glyn Daniel.

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For how long did you work in the mines?

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-36 years, underground.

-36 years.

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Mostly on the coalface.

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The New Cross Hands Colliery boasted the best coal in the world.

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Most of the boys, men, that I worked with,

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most of them have passed away now.

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There was a pit shaft just by there.

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The engine house was down here.

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This was where they had the steam to drive the carriages down.

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Miles of forgotten tunnels remain underground.

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You can say it's about, altogether, three miles...

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AMAS GASPS

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-..underground.

-Underground?

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Amas is not the first African to embrace Welsh culture.

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-They've got a black man to work down the pit.

-Well?

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What about it?

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Why, damn and blast it, man, aren't we all black down that pit?

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In the 1940s, Paul Robeson, an African-American singer and actor,

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embraced the culture, broke racial barriers,

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and took a controversial stand in support of Welsh miners.

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He was American. He came over

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and joined force with the lesser privileged people,

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got into some trouble.

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I know he sang some (DEEP VOICE) "big voice sounds!"

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# All through the night... #

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'The university I went to, the University of Nigeria out in Nsukka,'

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had its drama building named Paul Robeson.

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It's time for the first dress rehearsal.

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'The costuming I did for them

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'is the same I would do for Broadway.'

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I like the hat.

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I like your bangles. That's from Primark?

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HE LAUGHS

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If I give anyone a costume, it could be a pair of glasses,

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a piece of cloth,

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whatever I give to you, as a costume,

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you own your costume straight away. We keep them in the corner somewhere.

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I give them my best walking sticks, my best hats,

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my original masks, some about 100 years old.

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I give them the very best

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because I was anxious for them to have a true taste, not a semblance.

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Hands up, please.

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'It was a good experience to do something

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'to do with a different culture toward our own.'

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We learned about their costumes and their clothes and things

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and their instruments and how they live.

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They had dresses on and things, so they looked proper Africany, yeah.

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Who amongst you has a traditional Welsh outfit

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with a bonnet, with a proper...?

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-I've got one.

-Mine's like this big.

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He was a bit frustrated,

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I think he thought it was a bit too much to do with Africa,

0:18:570:19:02

and there wasn't quite enough Welsh culture in there

0:19:020:19:05

but we got there in the end.

0:19:050:19:07

I think he was a bit annoyed

0:19:070:19:08

with some of the people who know Welsh but didn't use Welsh.

0:19:080:19:12

This is Wales, and we need to demonstrate

0:19:120:19:14

that this play is also in Wales.

0:19:140:19:16

He's got a rugby top, yeah?

0:19:160:19:18

OK, rugby top, but who has got a traditional...with a bonnet?

0:19:180:19:21

I've just got the bonnet, I've just got the hat.

0:19:210:19:24

The hat, who can borrow, please?

0:19:240:19:27

We added a couple of pieces of Welsh things in,

0:19:270:19:30

so you could tell it was Wales.

0:19:300:19:32

Some of the drum players wore Welsh costumes,

0:19:320:19:35

Welsh rugby T-shirts and stuff.

0:19:350:19:37

Act one, scene one, from the top.

0:19:370:19:40

The play is starting.

0:19:400:19:43

'In my work, what I've noticed is that there is social poverty,'

0:19:430:19:50

the lack of social mobility, lack of influence of family...

0:19:500:19:54

'..younger ones believing they know it all,

0:19:580:20:01

'a lack of formed community - which Africa has,

0:20:010:20:04

'which Nigeria has in quantum!'

0:20:040:20:07

Fly to the house!

0:20:070:20:09

# When the rain is blowing in your face

0:20:120:20:15

# And the whole world is on your case... #

0:20:170:20:21

'The main part that I did was the solo singer.'

0:20:210:20:25

It was a song I sang for Gwendolyn because she was missing Katunge.

0:20:250:20:30

# I could hold you for a million years

0:20:300:20:35

# ALL: To make you feel my love. #

0:20:360:20:41

No money!

0:20:410:20:42

Bam!

0:20:420:20:43

No jobs!

0:20:430:20:44

-Bam!

-No crops!

0:20:440:20:46

Bam!

0:20:460:20:47

-It tipped over.

-Sorry.

0:20:470:20:50

Not your fault, not your fault.

0:20:500:20:51

Oh, my God, are you OK?

0:20:510:20:53

-OK, so finally some excitement I see!

-That was awkward.

0:20:560:21:00

I'd like to thank you guys for today.

0:21:000:21:02

I think you were just marvellous.

0:21:020:21:05

Can we have a round of applause for all of you?

0:21:050:21:08

The Amas one-man publicity machine also hit the local airwaves.

0:21:140:21:19

Keep it locked on Radio Cardiff at 98.7 FM,

0:21:190:21:21

so if you're listening, we want to talk

0:21:210:21:23

because it sounds like it's...

0:21:230:21:25

A - a good thing to travel around Wales,

0:21:250:21:27

as we were saying, there's a lot of poverty-stricken areas,

0:21:270:21:30

and if we can take it around Wales and then across to Nigeria, Uganda,

0:21:300:21:35

-what a great way to pass on a message.

-Yep.

0:21:350:21:37

Oh, no!

0:21:460:21:48

We have one hour, seven minutes to rehearsals,

0:21:540:21:58

so this heart is not going to happen today.

0:21:580:22:00

I can't even have access tomorrow. Today is Thursday

0:22:010:22:05

and the play is Saturday.

0:22:050:22:07

But no matter what happens, the play is going to go on.

0:22:100:22:13

CHILDREN ALL SPEAK AT ONCE

0:22:130:22:17

I see the light!

0:22:170:22:19

Boogeymen, go!

0:22:190:22:21

No, no, no!

0:22:210:22:23

-Stronger!

-Belcher!

-Again, no, no, no, please!

0:22:230:22:27

I'm a chief! I should banish you to the cornfields

0:22:270:22:30

for saying such things!

0:22:300:22:32

Take it from the top. It's too soft

0:22:320:22:35

and too... No passion.

0:22:350:22:38

'Much like the Katunge-Gwendolyn parts in the play,'

0:22:380:22:43

the romance of Nigeria

0:22:430:22:47

and...especially Swansea,

0:22:470:22:50

it's been growing nicely.

0:22:500:22:52

Is the play really about Katunge and Gwendolyn

0:22:520:22:55

or is it about the encounter between Nigeria and Swansea?

0:22:550:22:59

We have quite a number of students who pay quite some hefty fees

0:23:020:23:06

and they keep the place going, they're having a good time.

0:23:060:23:08

I just finished my Master's degree in finance.

0:23:100:23:12

-International relations.

-Aerospace.

0:23:120:23:15

In spite of Swansea's large Nigerian community,

0:23:150:23:19

Amas was incredulous to discover

0:23:190:23:22

that an authentic Nigerian restaurant had opened there.

0:23:220:23:25

My friend mentioned to me,

0:23:260:23:28

"There's a Nigerian restaurant in Swansea. I said, "What?"

0:23:280:23:32

He said, "Yes, there's a Nigerian restaurant!"

0:23:320:23:35

I said, "African?" He said, "No, Nigerian."

0:23:350:23:37

I say, "You must be kidding me!"

0:23:370:23:39

I'm making beans and plantain porridge.

0:23:410:23:45

Sometimes we call it bachelor's food

0:23:450:23:47

because it's the easiest thing

0:23:470:23:49

for the bachelor man who doesn't have a wife to prepare.

0:23:490:23:53

It brings them the memory of home.

0:23:530:23:57

One thing led to the other, and it blossomed

0:23:580:24:02

into such love that, at the end of the play,

0:24:020:24:06

they eventually got married.

0:24:060:24:07

Mum, Dad, we have an important announcement to make.

0:24:090:24:12

-WHISPERS:

-Please, everyone...

0:24:130:24:14

Please, everybody listen. We're getting married.

0:24:140:24:18

CHEERING

0:24:180:24:21

This calls for a celebration!

0:24:210:24:23

In a case of life imitating art,

0:24:230:24:26

an African wedding came to Wales

0:24:260:24:29

when Amas and Oby's daughter Omawumi got married in Cross Hands.

0:24:290:24:33

It was a big surprise.

0:24:370:24:39

We just saw a couple of people going up the road

0:24:390:24:41

and we thought, "What's going on?"

0:24:410:24:43

So we didn't have a clue.

0:24:430:24:45

They had lovely head-dresses,

0:24:480:24:50

long, very, very colourful, very beautiful gowns on

0:24:500:24:56

and the gentlemen were also in national costumes.

0:24:560:25:00

We had a dozen people staying here from Nigeria

0:25:000:25:05

in their traditional African dresswear, very colourful.

0:25:050:25:09

The children were very pretty.

0:25:090:25:11

Haven't seen anything like that in Cross Hands.

0:25:110:25:14

I'm not sure if the older gentlemen in the bar may have seen something

0:25:140:25:17

but it was a first for me.

0:25:170:25:19

It was absolutely fantastic

0:25:210:25:24

and very nice people.

0:25:240:25:25

They were all saying hello as they were walking past.

0:25:250:25:28

I'd say, the first African wedding in Cross Hands itself.

0:25:310:25:35

It was lovely African music.

0:25:370:25:40

It was nothing like...

0:25:400:25:42

like the music you've got of youngsters today!

0:25:420:25:45

I want to give the impression that the sunlight is very strong,

0:25:540:25:58

so it would be nice to see some shadows,

0:25:580:26:01

which normally every director wants to avoid, but I love shadows

0:26:010:26:05

because it's true to life, isn't it?

0:26:050:26:07

In Africa you see your shadows, they go with you everywhere.

0:26:070:26:11

You can hardly get away from them.

0:26:110:26:13

-That's all right, then. Yeah?

-You look great,

0:26:130:26:16

-sincerely.

-You sounded like you were a bit sarcastic there.

0:26:160:26:19

No, there's no sarcasm. If anything, it's envy.

0:26:190:26:22

I am very, very jealous,

0:26:220:26:24

so don't push your luck!

0:26:240:26:26

Everyone looks really cool in their costumes.

0:26:270:26:30

We haven't seen them fully costumed and stuff yet

0:26:300:26:32

so it's really, really cool.

0:26:320:26:34

The play is about to have its Welsh premiere.

0:26:360:26:39

I'm really nervous about tonight. Hoping everything will go well.

0:26:390:26:43

-I'm slightly nervous about it.

-I forgot my lucky bracelet.

0:26:430:26:47

# Don't worry

0:26:470:26:49

# About a thing... #

0:26:490:26:52

Everyone is excited, and that's so really pleasing

0:26:520:26:56

to see that they are happy.

0:26:560:26:58

I'm jumpy!

0:27:020:27:03

MUSIC: "Three Little Birds" by Bob Marley

0:27:040:27:07

Hey, love birds, what's going on in here? Get a room!

0:27:110:27:16

Get away!

0:27:160:27:17

No jobs, no money!

0:27:170:27:19

# Three little birds... #

0:27:190:27:22

Mum, Dad, we have an important announcement to make.

0:27:240:27:27

Please, everybody listen. We're getting married.

0:27:270:27:30

EVERYONE GASPS

0:27:300:27:32

ALL: You're getting married?

0:27:320:27:34

CHEERING

0:27:340:27:36

My parents and my family decided they thought it was really good

0:27:360:27:40

and they were influenced by it

0:27:400:27:42

and they thought it was very mature

0:27:420:27:45

for a group of our age to be doing something like that.

0:27:450:27:48

The ripple effects of this bridge-building enterprise

0:27:500:27:54

are spreading outwards.

0:27:540:27:56

I'd love to go to Africa

0:27:560:27:57

because I hear it's nice warm weather, like, very warm out there.

0:27:570:28:02

There's lots of new people to meet out there

0:28:020:28:05

and you can teach them things like...Welsh!

0:28:050:28:08

# Don't worry about a thing... #

0:28:080:28:12

Makes me feel like this whole drama thing is like a family...

0:28:120:28:15

Makes me feel like all of us are a family together.

0:28:150:28:17

If you don't have your own roots, the tree is going to die.

0:28:210:28:24

It's OK for them to go to California, Rio de Janeiro,

0:28:260:28:30

but please, pack a bag of Welsh!

0:28:300:28:34

APPLAUSE

0:28:340:28:37

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0:28:490:28:51

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