Pennod 4 Aled Jones: Fy Nhaith Glasurol


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-I'm on a journey through the world

-of classical music...

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-..visiting the locations where the

-great composers lived and worked.

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-On our musical tour

-of the classical greats...

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-..we've reached

-the medieval town of Regensburg.

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-Situated on the

-northernmost point of the Danube...

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-..Regensburg was a Roman fortress

-during the second century.

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-By the Middle Ages

-it became a thriving centre...

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-..for commerce and religion.

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-The old Roman town is famed for its

-Romanesque and Gothic buildings...

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-..centred

-in the old historic quarter.

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-With such diverse architecture

-to view...

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-..I can't wait to explore this town.

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-Remarkably, this historic city...

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-..avoided the bombing campaigns

-which ravaged so many German towns.

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-We've already seen many

-stunning churches on our journey...

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-..but Regensburg's Gothic cathedral

-is the paragon of an ancient church.

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-Most of it was built over a

-25-year period in the 13th century.

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-The towers are later additions.

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-The builders

-were eager to push the boundaries.

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-The surrounding buildings

-are dwarfed...

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-..by this cathedral which ascends

-into the heavens to glorify God.

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-Interestingly, the city has changed

-very little since the 13th century.

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-The medieval bridge with its

-15 arches has remained intact...

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-..since it was built

-in the 12th century.

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-This original European stone bridge

-is a renowned feature of the city.

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-The bridge lies in the centre

-of the city and is worth seeing.

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-By the early 16th century...

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-..Regensburg was one

-of Germany's principal towns...

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-..because of its grand buildings.

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-Regensburg has a remarkable history.

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-The Old Town Hall is

-another magnificent Gothic building.

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-It is here that the Reichstag

-of the Holy Roman Empire convened...

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-..for 150 years

-from the mid-17th century onwards.

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-The iron rods embedded in the walls

-are medieval measuring implements.

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-The middle rod measures a foot,

-the right, a yard...

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-..and the iron rod on the left

-was the emperor's height - a fathom.

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-These measuring standards

-became known aptly as rulers.

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-The city

-is also home to ancient abbeys...

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-..which embody centuries of history.

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-To complicate matters...

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-..three abbeys

-operated as independent states...

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-..within Regensburg...

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-..one of which was St Emmeram.

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-Composer Joseph Haydn...

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-..visited Regensburg

-at the end of the 18th century...

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-..on his way

-to perform concerts in England.

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-This piece

-is taken from Symphony No 86.

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-A journey around St Emmeram is

-like a tour through the centuries...

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-..from the Middle Ages

-to present day.

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-This is St Emmeram today.

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-The abbey has since become

-the palace of Thurn und Taxis...

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-..and home to German nobility.

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-It remains the family residence...

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-..of Princess Gloria

-von Thurn und Taxis.

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-It's claimed there are more rooms

-here than at Buckingham Palace...

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-..but I don't have time

-to discover if that's true!

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-The original

-Gothic cloister remains intact.

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-The saints of Emmeram and Wolfgang

-are buried here...

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-..along with emperors, Bavarian

-noblemen and Regensburg's bishops.

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-There is a millennium's worth

-of history in this cloister.

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-We are led through the centuries

-on our tour of the palace...

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-..which traces

-the fascinating history...

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-..of monks, missionaries

-and aristocrats.

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-In the 16th century...

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-..the family

-was primarily responsible...

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-..for developing the postal service

-across Europe from Brussels...

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-..to France, Spain,

-Italy and Germany.

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-The Old Town has charm

-and a sense of community.

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-There are also coffee houses.

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-It's heaven for tourists.

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-Bavaria is renowned

-for being Germany's beer capital...

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-..with half of its 1,200 breweries

-located in this state.

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-Many of them

-are situated in Regensburg.

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-On the banks of the Danube

-near the old stone bridge...

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-..is where we find

-one of Germany's oldest taverns.

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-In order to follow in the

-footsteps of the great pioneers...

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-..they say you should sample

-the local beer and German sausage.

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-I'm told this is the perfect place

-to sample that sausage.

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-Cheers!

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-Thank you.

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-Cheers.

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-This place, known as the

-sausage kitchen, is 500 years old.

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-Little of it

-has changed since the Middle Ages.

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-They make their own sausages,

-prepare the sauerkraut...

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-..and mix their own mustard here.

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-Believe me, on a good day

-they can sell 6,000 sausages.

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-Here are your sausages.

-Enjoy your meal.

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-Thank you very much.

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-Thank you very much.

-

-With mustard.

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-Aren't you going to join me?

-There's loads here! Thank you.

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-The Beethoven of sausages!

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-From Regensburg we head to

-our next destination in Germany...

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-..and the beautiful town of Bamberg.

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-Mozart travelled a great deal

-through this part of Bavaria...

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-..but his principal connection

-with Regensburg...

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-..was his librettist,

-Emanuel Johann Joseph Schikaneder.

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-This impresario was a playwright,

-actor, singer and composer.

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-He enjoyed

-a successful theatrical career.

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-He was the librettist of Mozart's

-most famous opera, The Magic Flute.

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-A short journey along the river...

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-..is the town

-whose history is very different.

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-It seems that every city we visit...

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-..is more beautiful than the last...

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-..but Bamberg is truly spectacular.

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-It is a miracle that it survived

-WWII relatively unscathed.

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-The Old Town has been kept

-in immaculate condition...

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-..it is listed

-as a World Heritage Site.

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-On the river Regnitz close to its

-confluence with the river Main...

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-..the city of Bamberg was founded

-some time in the 10th century.

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-The Old Town Hall...

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-..sits in between the two bridges.

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-The city views

-are spectacular from the water.

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-Legend has it that the bishop

-refused the people the land...

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-..to build the town hall,

-so they built it above the water.

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-Bamberg Cathedral stands in the

-centre of an enormous town square...

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-..making it easier

-to appreciate its splendour.

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-Very few churches in Europe

-are situated in such an open space.

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-The architecture is

-of Romanesque and Gothic design.

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-The old courthouse

-situated near the cathedral...

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-..was the bishops' residence

-before they became princes.

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-It is typical

-of 15th-century architecture.

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-At the time, Bamberg

-was part of the Holy Roman Empire.

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-The bishops were also princes

-and they ruled the city.

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-They were extremely wealthy...

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-..and like many German

-and Austrian towns...

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-..monumental buildings

-were created from their wealth...

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-..beginning with their homes.

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-Surprisingly, these two buildings

-are merely extensions.

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-A substantial rose garden

-is part of the property too.

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-But the views across the city

-create far more of an impact.

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-Bamberg is also famed

-for its Rauchbier.

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-There are several breweries here

-but far more beer houses.

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-Religion and beer thrived at the

-same time in this part of the world.

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-We're in Bamberg, Germany,

-at its spacious concert hall...

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-..known locally

-as Sinfonie an der Regnitz.

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-Despite being a small city, this

-hall is one of the world's greatest.

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-Germany is a renowned

-classical music stronghold.

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-The hall is home to

-Bamberg's symphony orchestra...

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-..formed over 60 years ago.

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-When the hall

-was opened in the 1990s...

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-..the first performance

-was of Mahler's Symphony No.8...

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-..which simply

-can't be conducted in a small hall.

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-It's called

-the Symphony of a Thousand...

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-..because it was written

-for a large orchestra...

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-..along with a choir

-of up to a thousand voices.

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-Mahler's aim was to create a great

-sound to express great ideas.

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-What you see is the result of major

-work carried out some years ago.

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-It meant creating a new stage...

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-..and scraping off all the varnish

-to improve acoustics.

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-Yes, music is an art form...

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-..but making it

-worth listening to is a science.

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-Little Venice is another

-of the Old Town's main attractions.

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-It was merely a fishing village

-during the Middle Ages.

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-The timber-framed houses

-on the river makes fishing easy...

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-..from any one of the balconies.

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-Situated in another part of

-Little Venice is the old abattoir.

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-The facade

-dates back to the 17th century.

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-It was built on the river so that

-waste could be thrown into it.

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-The crane

-belongs to the old dock area...

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-..to serve the trade ships

-on the former canal.

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-It's time

-to bid farewell to Bamberg...

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-..and take a short journey

-to another destination.

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-Nuremberg was founded

-in the 11th century...

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-..but it is widely known

-for the events of last century.

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-It was customary for Germans

-in the Middle Ages...

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-..to build castles

-around which towns would develop.

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-Nuremberg's imposing castle

-is the Imperial Castle.

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-Spectacular views of the city

-can be seen from it.

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-The red rooftops

-are very attractive.

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-Nuremberg was established as

-a fort to safeguard trade routes...

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-..which included the river.

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-It became a major trade centre

-and the site of the first senate...

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-..from the 15th century

-until the 18th century.

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-The Crown Jewels were kept here.

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-It was a golden era

-in German history.

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-Although its political importance

-began to wane in the 19th century...

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-..Nuremberg was still

-a cultural and historical icon...

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-..which influenced its standing

-in 20th-century history.

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-This pleasant square was once

-Nuremberg's old marketplace.

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-Trading happens daily and many

-of the city's attractions are here.

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-It's hard to miss the decorative

-tower in the town square...

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-..which is a fountain.

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-Our Lady's Church

-was erected seven centuries ago...

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-..and has recently been restored.

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-The church is a good example

-of the city's religious history.

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-Originally Protestant,

-the Catholics took it over...

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-..when Nuremberg yielded

-to the Bavarians in 1806.

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-The area is renowned

-for its spicy gingerbread, nuts...

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-..and sugar-coated fruit...

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-..which traditionally

-was only eaten at Christmas.

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-Nuremberg's long history is palpable

-at St Johannis Church Cemetery.

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-These gravestones are a perfect

-example of history through the ages.

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-Among the dead,

-life is represented...

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-..by numerous rose bushes.

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-That is why

-it is aptly named Rose Cemetery.

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-Anyone of any importance...

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-..has been buried here...

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-..including the renowned

-German painter Albrecht Durer.

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-St Johannis Church is remarkable

-for surviving the ruin of WWII.

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-It was the only church

-to remain intact...

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-..and is a remarkable example

-of ancient architecture.

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-Nuremberg

-is characteristically German...

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-..which is why Hitler

-and his Nazi Party were drawn here.

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-It was here

-that he held his major rallies.

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-The city served as an

-important centre for the Nazi Party.

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-Military weapons

-were also manufactured here.

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-Nuremberg paid the price...

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-..by becoming the target

-for Britain's bombs.

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-In one raid,

-90% of the city was demolished.

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-The Nazis had more ambitious plans

-for this city.

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-Only part of the rally ground

-was built, which is chilling enough.

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-It's a taste of what might

-have happened if the Nazis had won.

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-I felt

-awfully uncomfortable here.

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-They had intended building a stadium

-to hold 400,000 people...

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-..along with a field for

-the Zeppelin and a military base.

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-This enormous congress hall

-was based on the Colosseum's design.

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-The place has since been

-turned into a playing field.

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-Nearby is a stadium

-which was built for the World Cup.

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-The area in front of Hitler's

-platform is now a car racing grid.

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-It's interesting that there is

-no respect for the former site.

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-The world...

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-..is now free to move forward.

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-The Documentation Centre

-offers a chance to reflect.

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-It is purposely modern and the aim

-of its dramatic architecture...

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-..is to send a symbolic spear

-through the congress hall...

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-..and Nazism.

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-It houses an exhibition...

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-..which conveys a person's fear

-and loathing about coming here.

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-It's a true representation of what

-happened to Germany under Hitler...

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-..and the consequences of that.

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-They make no excuses.

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-They're ensuring that such treachery

-will never happen again...

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-..as WWII

-sinks further away in history.

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-When the war ended,

-Nuremberg was symbolically chosen...

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-..as the location

-for the atrocities of war trials...

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-..which were held

-in this courthouse.

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-Chief US Prosecutor Robert H Jackson

-concisely detailed the reasons...

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-..why the trials

-should be conducted.

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-"The wrongs which we seek

-to condemn and punish...

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-"..have been so calculated,

-so malignant and so devastating...

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-"..that civilization cannot tolerate

-their being ignored...

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-"..because it cannot survive

-their being repeated."

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-The Palace of Justice

-was undamaged by WWII.

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-It was one of the few places

-in Germany...

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-..where such a complicated trial

-could be conducted.

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-There were 80 courtrooms

-and more than 500 offices.

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-There was a prison nearby too.

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-In August 1945...

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-..the Americans

-took over the building.

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-Being here

-is an astounding experience...

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-..but a clear message is conveyed.

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-Atrocities against humanity

-will never be forgotten.

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-The trials of the chief Nazi leaders

-took place in courtroom number 600.

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-It still functions as a court...

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-..and was in session

-the day we were filming.

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-Looking at the locked doors

-was an unsavoury experience.

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-The prosecution began

-on 20th November, 1945.

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-The judges came from America,

-Russia, Britain and France.

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-As many as 280 witnesses

-were questioned...

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-..and it took two days

-to announce the sentences.

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-The Nuremberg Trials

-were the basis...

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-..for founding the International

-Court of Justice in The Hague.

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-I can almost hear

-the marching boots out here.

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-But the other sound people

-would have heard at these rallies...

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-..was the music of Hitler's

-favourite composer, Richard Wagner.

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-The connection

-did Wagner no favours...

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-..but he was also a man

-with extreme views.

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-He's certainly one of classical

-music's more complex characters.

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-We will visit Bayreuth

-in the next episode...

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-..and explore the life of Richard

-Wagner and his famous opera house.

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-I hope you can join me.

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-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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