Douglas Arms, Bethesda Straeon Tafarn


Douglas Arms, Bethesda

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-Welcome to Straeon Tafarn

-with me, Dewi Pws...

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-..the stray cat from Treboeth,

-Tresaith and the whole world!

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-I'm still touring Welsh pubs

-with Radwm in my green van.

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-I like being early to meet the locals

-and get a feel for the place.

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-Today, I'm in the Gogs,

-or Tibet, as I like to call it!

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-It's full of odd people speaking

-a strange language, but I love them.

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-I also love the mountains

-above the pub I'm visiting today.

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-Where am I going?

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-It has bred some of Wales's

-best bands and musicians...

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-..and Maffia Mr Huws.

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-Yes, it's Bethesda!

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-# Let's all rejoice merrily, better

-times are coming, hallelujah! #

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-Why am I singing Moliannwn?

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-Local man Benjamin Thomas wrote it.

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-Many poets have links with Bethesda.

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-Among them is my favourite,

-R Williams Parry.

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-The amiable historian

-John Bwlchllan...

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-..enlightened me

-as to how Bethesda flourished.

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-We met at the Douglas Arms,

-the venue for tonight's gig.

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-It's the only Arfon quarry village

-that developed into a town.

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-It became the urban district

-of Bethesda.

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-It's also the site

-of the largest hole in the world.

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-It's said that Penrhyn Quarry

-can be seen from the moon.

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-Caernarfon Castle, the Great Wall

-of China and the Bethesda hole...

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-..can be seen from the moon.

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-In the early 19th century...

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-..Telford designed the most

-innovative road of the period.

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-It ran up through Nant Ffrancon.

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-However, none of the gradients

-were too steep for a horse and cart.

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-It was a real masterpiece.

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-The Ogwen Valley

-became more accessible...

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-..and the town developed

-on either side of this main road.

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-The A5 that passes the Douglas Arms

-was essential to the area's growth.

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-Members of the gentry

-travelled to and from London.

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-They needed resting places

-along the route of their journey.

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-As a result,

-the Douglas Arms was built.

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-I asked the landlady, Christine,

-about the origin of the name.

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-The Douglas-Pennant family

-was originally from Scotland.

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-The coat of arms

-belongs to Gordon Douglas.

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-This is the family coat of arms.

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-When they moved to North Wales...

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-..they married into a family

-and became Douglas-Pennant.

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-How long have you been here?

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-My great-grandmother

-rented it in 1913.

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-In 1939, a member

-of the Douglas-Pennant family died.

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-The death duty was immense,

-so they sold a lot of property.

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-My grandparents purchased the site.

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-Any chance of a free pint?

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-Any chance of a free pint?

-

-I can't do that!

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-Dear me, no.

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-And I didn't get a free pint either!

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-Lord Penrhyn's family

-owned the pub.

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-They resembled a local mafia

-who ran and owned everything.

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-Christine suggested

-that I phone J Elwyn Hughes.

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-He knows everything about them.

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-He also named another local mafia,

-the band Maffia Mr Huws.

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-The Penrhyn family

-dates back to the Middle Ages.

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-They lived in a wooden mansion

-on the site of Penrhyn Castle.

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-At that time, the family

-owned a lot of land.

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-It was an important estate.

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-A man from Liverpool

-called Richard Pennant...

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-..married Ann Susannah,

-the heiress of the Penrhyn estate.

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-The modern Penrhyn family

-stemmed from there.

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-Richard Pennant took advantage

-of his father John's wealth.

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-He had made his fortune

-from Jamaica's sugar estates.

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-Bethesda wouldn't exist

-if it wasn't for Jamaica.

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-When Richard Pennant

-inherited this wealth in 1781...

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-..he started excavating

-a large hole on Y Fronllwyd.

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-That was the start

-of the Penrhyn Quarry...

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-..that would employ

-thousands of men.

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-This quarry is unique, and overlooks

-both the Douglas and the town.

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-If you want a hole,

-it may as well be a large one!

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-At one time,

-3,000 people worked here.

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-Elwyn told me about the disagreements

-and the many strikes.

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-It went from bad to worse

-when one particular man took control.

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-The son was called

-George Sholto Douglas-Pennant.

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-When speaking about his son,

-the old Lord said...

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-.."Don't cross George,

-because he'll never forgive you."

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-This threat came true...

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-..at the end of the century.

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-In 1896-97, there was a strike

-that lasted for 11 months.

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-It preceded the Great Strike

-that lasted for three years.

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-It was the longest strike

-in British trade union history.

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-During this strike,

-Bethesda was a cauldron of emotion.

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-Posters were displayed

-in the windows of each home.

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-Traitors were excommunicated

-from chapels.

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-One traitor told an old lady, "I got

-a sovereign from Lord Penrhyn."

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-"Yes, and it turned you

-into a Judas!" she replied.

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-Who were the traitors?

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-They were the men who broke

-the strike and went back to work.

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-The windows of some traitors

-were smashed.

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-The wives of the strikers gathered

-in the woods that led to the quarry.

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-They jeered and heckled the traitors

-as they returned to work.

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-For many years,

-people were remembered as traitors.

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-"Don't trust him,

-his grandfather was a traitor."

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-The scars of this strike

-remain embedded in the soil.

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-At the time of the Great Strike,

-men worked exceptionally hard...

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-..under very difficult conditions.

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-They worked in all weathers

-on the rock faces...

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-..or in the sheds

-during the freezing weather.

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-The working conditions

-was one cause of the strike.

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-The Lord didn't move an inch.

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-Wages were very poor.

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-They battled for a minimum wage,

-but it wasn't granted.

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-The strike dragged on

-and there was no compromise.

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-Lord Penrhyn

-was a stubborn character...

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-..but, apparently,

-he was quite a fair employer.

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-He built hospitals and schools...

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-..on the condition

-that workers were obedient.

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-If they weren't,

-he could get nasty.

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-It destroyed the community.

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-From that day, neither Bethesda

-nor the quarry were the same.

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-One important record

-tells of people starving.

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-They had no support.

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-One lady only had crusts

-that were soaked in water.

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-She roamed the area begging

-and received only compassion.

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-Nothing that could provide

-for her children.

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-The local shops were sympathetic...

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-..until they were unable

-to provide food...

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-..as they couldn't afford

-to supply their shops.

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-This led to many

-unfortunate incidents.

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-Some of the traitors' wives...

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-..had to be accompanied

-by the police to the shops...

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-..due to the bad feeling

-between strikers and traitors.

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-As you look at the history

-of the strike...

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-..you get a feeling

-that people wanted to suffer.

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-The strike dragged on.

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-There was a Calvinistic notion

-that suffering is good for you.

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-Following the end of the strike

-in 1903...

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-..came the Welsh Revival of 1904-05.

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-That took religious spirit

-to another level.

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-We only have to roam this area

-to see the large chapels...

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-..that were very successful.

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-The money pumped into the chapels

-by the workers...

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-..was a large percentage

-of their wealth.

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-The word Bethesda

-means a house of peace.

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-That's quite ironic considering

-that the turbulent Penrhyn strike...

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-..lasted three years.

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-The religious revival

-soon followed...

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-..but the chapel in Bethesda

-has been turned into flats.

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-It's a strange world.

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-.

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-888

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-I love touring Wales with Radwm

-and hearing local stories.

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-The Penrhyn Strike

-scarred the area...

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-..but it also contributed

-to local folklore.

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-Elwyn told me that Bethesda strikers

-received a Christmas pudding...

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-..that weighed two and a half tons

-from an English company...

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-..to share among the needy.

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-A hymn was adapted

-to mark the occasion.

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-"We had in Bethesda

-the best pudding there ever was

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-"Neither Young nor Lord Penrhyn

-knew of it before it came

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-"It was a black coloured pudding

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-"The best any living being

-has tasted."

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-To be sung to the tune Wyddgrug.

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-It must have been quite a pudding.

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-The hymn proves that the area

-had a unique sense of humour.

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-Elwyn spoke of one individual

-who's remembered by word of mouth.

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-Wil Reach was a local character.

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-He had an answer for everything.

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-He was funny and witty.

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-Someone asked him

-whether he spoke English.

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-"Yes," he said,

-"when I lean against a wall!"

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-I like the fact that this pub

-has hardly changed in a century.

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-However, it has some odd features.

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-One of those is found

-in the snooker room.

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-In the early 1960s, Geoffrey,

-Christine's father...

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-..heard that Joe Davis,

-a world-class snooker player...

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-..had devised a new game

-called snooker plus.

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-It was snooker with two extra balls.

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-The orange was worth eight

-and the purple scored ten.

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-The aim was to make the game

-more exciting.

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-It also meant a bigger

-maximum break...

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-..210 instead of 147.

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-Here we go, Dewi Morris

-is going for the 210.

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-Foul!

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-The area was also home

-to the writer Caradog Prichard.

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-His first Eisteddfod chair

-is here at the Douglas Arms.

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-It's very comfortable too!

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-I've learnt a lot

-about Caradog Prichard.

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-He was born in Bethesda.

-This was his house.

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-He was a journalist in London

-with wife Mattie and daughter Mari.

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-The residents of Bethesda

-inspired his famous work...

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-..Un Nos Ola Leuad.

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-It's one of the greatest novels

-of the 20th century.

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-It was inspired by Caradog

-Prichard's experiences in Bethesda.

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-I spoke to him once when he was

-working in Fleet Street in London.

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-He said, "Fleet Street is the same

-length as Bethesda High Street."

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-"It brings dignity to London."

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-I wanted to hear an excerpt

-from Un Nos Ola Leuad...

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-..so I called on one of Wales's

-greatest actors, John Ogwen...

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-No, not him!

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-..to recite an extract

-at the Douglas Arms.

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-John told me to say that!

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-"Johnny South has opened

-a boxing club behind The Blue Bell.

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-"He has made a ring

-out of ropes and railings.

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-"The boys learn to box every night

-for a shilling a week.

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-"Now Gwas Gorlan

-has challenged him.

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-"Now had been drinking

-and heard Johnny South say...

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-"..that there'll be a special show

-at eight next Thursday.

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-"Johnny South will take on

-any challenger.

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-"Whoever manages a KO against

-Johnny South gets ten shillings."

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-"I like your South Walian accent.

-Please come with me, Huw."

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-"No punches were thrown at first.

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-"They put out their arms as if

-they were scratching their noses.

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-"Suddenly, Now's right arm swung

-like a sickle cutting brambles.

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-"He caught Johnny on his chin

-and he fell.

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-"One, two, three..." said Frank.

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-"But Johnny jumped to his feet

-and was dancing around Now.

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-"Yes, that was a belter,"

-said Huw.

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-"It's another for the Southerner,"

-said another.

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-"Now Gwas Gorlan

-is now called Now Nine.

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-"When he was lying on the floor,

-Frank was counting above him.

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-"After reaching eight,

-Frank shouted 'nine' in English.

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-"His Nain isn't here, Frank!"

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-"He has been Now Nine ever since."

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-Oh, John Ogs. I couldn't have done

-better myself, but back to Caradog.

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-He was a likeable character.

-We were great friends.

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-I would visit him

-at his house in Bethesda.

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-He considered returning to the area

-after leaving The Telegraph.

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-But he was taken ill

-and it never happened.

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-I also had the extraordinary honour

-of organizing his funeral.

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-Listen to this.

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-In the past, we used pounds,

-shillings and pence.

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-In the 1970s, this changed

-in every region of Britain.

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-Lord Penrhyn knew full well

-that Bethesda people are stubborn.

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-It's no surprise that the Douglas

-Arms refused to be decimalized.

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-Richard Morris Jones

-was a journalist at the time.

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-He visited the pub to interview

-Geoffrey, Christine's father.

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-Hello. I'll have a pint

-of dark ale, please.

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-It's a lovely day, isn't it?

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-It's a lovely day, isn't it?

-

-Wonderful.

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-Two and three, sir.

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-Two and three, sir.

-

-Here's 50p.

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-I remember interviewing Geoffrey

-at the Douglas.

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-We had a lot of fun

-because of his determined attitude.

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-He was convinced that decimalization

-would not work.

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-Half a crown, a crown,

-ten shillings.

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-You've got a big day tomorrow.

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-Why? What's happening?

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-Why? What's happening?

-

-The change to decimalization.

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-We're not changing.

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-We're not changing.

-

-What do you mean?

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-We're not changing

-- it isn't essential.

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-I thought it was totally wrong.

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-Why?

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-Why?

-

-The original system was much better.

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-Won't you find it odd

-that the Douglas Arms in Bethesda...

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-..is the only place in Britain

-that isn't decimalized?

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-I doubt we'll be the only place.

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-We're not odd,

-but we'll keep going as normal.

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-How did the old money work?

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-How did the old money work?

-

-It was very simple.

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-There were 12 pennies in a shilling

-and 20 shillings in a pound.

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-And that was that.

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-Can you tell me about half a crown?

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-Half a crown was two...

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-Half a crown was...

-a crown was... oh dear...

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-Twenty.

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-Twenty.

-

-No, it was 12 and a half pence.

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-There were eight half a crowns

-in a pound.

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-Eight times 12 is 96,

-plus four equals 100.

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-How would your father ask for 20p?

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-How would your father ask for 20p?

-

-Four shillings.

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-If you gave him a 50p, which would

-have been ten shillings...

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-..you would get six shillings

-of change, which was 30p.

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-You've lost me already!

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-Am I stupid or what?

-They're still at it today.

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-We never change our prices

-by less than 5p or a shilling.

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-That would have been a huge rise

-years ago.

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-We don't deal

-with two pence or three pence.

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-A pint is 2.75

-or two pounds and 15 shillings.

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-Lager is more expensive at 2.80...

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-..or two pounds and 16 shillings.

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-Do you regret doing it?

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-Do you regret doing it?

-

-No, not at all.

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-Someone had to oppose

-these idiotic changes.

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-Thank you very much.

-I'll take these three florins.

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-That's seven and six,

-seven and nine.

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-We'll see what happens from Monday,

-Mr Davies.

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-Thank you and cheers.

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-It's great that they still respect

-the old coinage at the Douglas.

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-I didn't realize that this area

-had such a wealth of history.

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-There's more to Bethesda

-than Maffia Mr Huws.

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-Believe it or not,

-John is still propping up the bar!

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-If we look at the popular culture

-from recent years...

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-..Tynal Tywyll, Maffia Mr Huws

-and Super Furry Animals...

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-..were all inspired by Bethesda.

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-Idris Foster, the 20th century

-Welsh scholar, is also from here.

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-We should take pride

-in the fact that Bethesda exists.

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-Yes, John. It boasts

-a wonderful tradition of music...

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-..and it's set to improve

-with the arrival of Radwm.

0:20:140:20:17

-The song at the Douglas

-is about another quarrying town.

0:20:170:20:23

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:20:230:20:27

-# Catching the first train

-out of town

0:20:270:20:30

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:20:310:20:34

-# Because it's my seventh heaven

0:20:350:20:38

-# Wales, come as one

-to listen to my song

0:20:390:20:42

-# Something small

-is really worrying me

0:20:420:20:46

-# Living in Swansea

-is getting on my nerves

0:20:460:20:50

-# And I'm leaving

-for the hills at dawn

0:20:500:20:53

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:20:530:20:57

-# Catching the first train

-out of town

0:20:580:21:01

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:21:010:21:04

-# Because it's my seventh heaven

0:21:050:21:08

-# Mrs Jones, take a letter

-and write this quickly

0:21:080:21:12

-# I'm totally fed up of this town

0:21:120:21:15

-# I've closed the windows

-and washed the dishes

0:21:160:21:19

-# And the furniture is neat

-and in their place

0:21:200:21:23

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:21:230:21:26

-# Catching the first train

-out of town

0:21:260:21:29

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:21:300:21:33

-# Because it's my seventh heaven

0:21:340:21:37

-# The Eisteddfod was in the north

-and then in the south

0:21:380:21:43

-# The Court were decide where to go

0:21:430:21:45

-# Gwyndaf yelled to the crowd

-"Where is the next Eisteddfod?"

0:21:450:21:49

-# They heard a tender voice

-shouting these words

0:21:490:21:53

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:21:530:21:57

-# Catching the first train

-out of town

0:21:570:22:00

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:22:010:22:04

-# Because it's my seventh heaven

0:22:040:22:07

-# The man who pays the harpist

-is calling for the song

0:22:080:22:11

-# The man who plays the music

-has his fun

0:22:110:22:14

-# Because I am the harpist,

-you have to follow

0:22:140:22:18

-# So come and join with me,

-once again

0:22:180:22:22

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:22:220:22:25

-# Catching the first train

-out of town

0:22:260:22:29

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:22:290:22:33

-# Because it's my seventh heaven,

-once again

0:22:330:22:36

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:22:370:22:39

-# Catching the first train

-out of town

0:22:400:22:43

-# I'm going back

-to Blaenau Ffestiniog

0:22:440:22:47

-# Because it's my seventh heaven #

0:22:470:22:53

-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:22:570:23:00

-I enjoyed that gig.

0:23:050:23:08

-"I went for a stroll to the Gogs

-and had fun with the girls and hogs

0:23:090:23:14

-"At the Douglas Arms,

-I became Liszt and Brahms

0:23:140:23:17

-"With a gang of nice blokes

-and John Ogs!"

0:23:170:23:20

-Goodnight.

0:23:210:23:22

-All together...

0:23:220:23:24

-# Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:23:240:23:29

-# Lleucu Llwyd,

-you're worth the world to me

0:23:290:23:34

-# Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:23:340:23:39

-# Lleucu Llwyd,

-I love you, you, you #

0:23:400:23:46

-S4C subtitles by Tinopolis

0:23:520:23:54

-.

0:23:540:23:54

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