Y Ring, Llanfrothen Straeon Tafarn


Y Ring, Llanfrothen

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-Hello and welcome

-to Straeon Tafarn...

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-..with me, Dewi Pws Morris,

-the leading Welsh pub historian.

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-Today, I'm in the far north

-to visit a very special place.

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-It's a rural pub in Llanfrothen

-called The Ring.

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-It's not far from Portmeirion,

-one of my favourite places.

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-Oh... a cattle grid!

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-It's a magical place.

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-Brondanw was also designed

-by Clough Williams-Ellis.

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-I like being early to meet the locals

-and to get a feel for a place.

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-I'm looking forward to meeting

-the band at The Ring for our gig.

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-It's nice to arrive.

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-Mam always told me to go now

-so that I could come back...

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-..but she didn't mention coming back!

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-The gig should be great, as The Ring

-is renowned for live Welsh music.

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-I asked Emlyn and Gruff,

-the current managers...

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-..about their expectations

-for the night.

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-You've got Dewi Pws

-and Radwm performing tonight.

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-Is it a sell-out?

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-Is it a sell-out?

-

-No... no.

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-Who?

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-Laugh? I almost bought a round

-for everyone in the world!

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-Back to the important issues.

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-Where does the local name

-for The Ring come from?

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-Is that it?

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-Is that it?

-

-Yes.

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-They say that boats

-were tied to this ring...

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-..before the Cob was built.

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-Water covered this entire area.

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-And they tied the boats to this?

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-And they tied the boats to this?

-

-Yes, that's right.

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-If I'm honest,

-I don't believe the story.

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-I don't think so.

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-Others say that the blacksmith

-tied horses to it.

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-It was used

-when horses needed shoes.

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-A place to tie

-a horse or a boat.

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-Gruff had another story for me.

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-What do we have here?

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-What do we have here?

-

-This is the rear of the pub.

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-In the olden days,

-the pub owned these fields.

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-It was the site of an auction ring

-for the drovers and their stock.

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-The stock was housed overnight,

-the drovers had a pint...

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-..and the sale was held

-the following morning.

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-An auction ring! I like that story,

-but I liked the other story too.

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-Hey, come on boys. Come with me.

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-There's another explanation for you.

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-Come on, boys.

-Make a decision, for goodness sake!

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-What's the true story, Emlyn?

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-What's the true story, Emlyn?

-

-This is how I see it.

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-We had many quarries

-such as Cwm Croesor, Rhosydd...

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-..Cwmorthin, Fron-boeth

-and Pant-mawr.

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-The quarrymen marched down the hill

-in their hobnail boots on a Friday.

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-One would ask another

-if he was going to the inn tonight.

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-The question would filter

-along the row of men.

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-This proves that it was an inn.

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-What do you think, Gruff?

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-What do you think, Gruff?

-

-We'll never agree on this one.

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-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say #

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-If boats were secured

-to the ring by the pub...

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-..the sea must once have flowed

-up the valley from Porthmadog.

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-I need help with this one.

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-I was delighted to see Wales's

-Obi-Wan Kenobi, John Bwlchllan.

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-What's the history of the Cob, John?

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-The Cob is a causeway that blocked

-the mouth of the River Glaslyn...

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-..and reclaimed land from the sea.

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-If we were on this spot in 1800...

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-..The Ring would be the last

-remaining piece of dry land...

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-..and we would be gazing

-over an estuary.

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-The land bordering us

-would have been under water.

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-We've lost the concept of Snowdon

-reflected in a body of water.

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-That's unfortunate, but they

-reclaimed a lot of land as a result.

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-When did this happen?

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-William Alexander Maddocks

-started building the Cob in 1808.

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-You could say that The Ring

-was on the last piece of dry land...

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-..before the waters of Traeth Mawr.

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-It's amazing that one man

-from London...

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-..William Alexander Maddocks MP...

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-..changed the shape

-of this part of Wales forever.

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-The Ring is located in an area

-that was rife with quarries.

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-I had the pleasure of meeting

-Edgar Parry Williams...

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-..who has fond memories

-of the old days.

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-The quarry has been part

-of your family for centuries.

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-How many generations

-have worked there?

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-My father, grandfather

-and great-grandfather worked there.

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-I can't be sure

-about previous generations.

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-Croesor Quarry produced slate

-from about 1856 onwards.

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-It was the area's main employer

-at that time.

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-The village of Croesor

-sprang up around the quarry.

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-My family, including my father

-and grandfather...

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-..had little choice but to work

-at the quarry in Croesor.

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-They grew up used to hard work.

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-The workers would walk

-from Llanfrothen to the quarry...

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-..spend the day at work

-and then walk home.

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-Some owned smallholdings

-and had to work after coming home.

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-They were tough men.

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-Often, the husbands and sons

-worked in the quarry...

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-..while the mothers

-tended to the farms.

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-If you wanted a labourer,

-you went to Trawsfynydd!

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-They were the Poles of their day,

-but they came from Trawsfynydd!

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-I'm referring to Croesor Quarry,

-but there were many other quarries.

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-The remains of Brondanw Quarry

-are seen on the way to Croesor.

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-Others included Foty, Hafod Uchaf.

-Llidiart yr Arian and Park.

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-The work in the area

-was quite varied.

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-Edgar told me that Croesor Quarry

-was ahead of its time.

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-It was the first

-to have electricity.

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-This was all thanks

-to one exceptional man.

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-I'm jumping ahead now,

-because Peredur Hughes wants a word.

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-He has a surprise for me.

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-How are you, Peredur?

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-How are you, Peredur?

-

-Hello, how are you?

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-Are you keeping well?

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-Are you keeping well?

-

-I was!

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-What on earth is this?

-Is it a Hoover?

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-It's more technical than that.

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-It's more technical than that.

-

-It's heavy. What is it?

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-It's a Moses Kellow drill.

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-Who was he?

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-He was the manager of the Park

-and Croesor slate quarries.

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-He was also an excellent engineer

-and he invented this drill.

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-This is one of only two left

-in the whole world.

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-How does it work?

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-Most drills used in quarrying

-were driven by air pressure...

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-..but this one is driven by water.

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-The casing

-houses a water turbine.

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-It works with a water pressure

-of below 700 per square inch.

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-Water was pumped

-into the turbine through pipes.

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-This drill can make

-a seven-foot deep hole...

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-..in the slate

-in less than a minute.

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-Goodness me!

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-No other machine can drill

-that quickly even today.

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-I love this drill...

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-..but miles of pipes were needed

-in order for it to function.

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-It's madness! Where was his sense?

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-They say that Moses

-had got himself into a pickle...

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-..due to the amount of money

-he was spending.

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-In 1912, there was a fire...

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-..and the Croesor Quarry workshops

-burnt to the ground.

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-The building had been insured

-for a tidy sum.

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-That spelt the end of the drill,

-more or less.

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-I could have spent hours

-discussing the drill with Peredur...

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-..but I had people to go

-and places to meet...

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-..if I could find the way!

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-IMITATING SHEEP BLEATS

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-Get down!

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-Sheep!

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-Oh!

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-Oh!

-

-Are you alright?

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-I'd received a call

-to meet Marian Roberts...

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-..at Llanfrothen Church cemetery.

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-How could I refuse?

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-Why have you brought me

-to this specific grave?

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-This is the grave of Robert Roberts

-of Ty Capel, Croesor.

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-There's a saga

-associated with this grave.

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-Robert Roberts

-was a Nonconformist...

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-..who wanted to be buried

-beside his daughter, Kate.

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-The parish rector argued

-that Roberts was a Nonconformist...

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-..and couldn't be buried

-on church land.

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-The family employed Lloyd George

-to argue their case.

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-Lloyd George became well known...

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-..after defending Robert Roberts

-and his right to be buried here.

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-Lloyd George argued

-that this was parish land...

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-..and that the funeral

-should go ahead.

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-The rector did everything he could

-to prevent it.

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-He locked the gates, forcing the

-gravedigger to climb over the wall.

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-He even asked the local constable

-to prevent anyone entering.

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-On the day of the funeral...

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-..he wouldn't let them use his bier

-to carry the coffin from Croesor.

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-How far was that?

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-How far was that?

-

-Three miles.

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-Many people had gathered

-for the funeral.

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-Groups of six took it in turn

-to carry the coffin to the cemetery.

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-When they arrived,

-the gate was locked...

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-..but they broke the lock

-and the funeral went ahead.

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-Lloyd George took the case

-to the Court of Appeal...

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-..to argue in favour of a law...

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-..that allowed residents

-to be buried in their local parish.

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-That would make an amazing film.

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-That would make an amazing film.

-

-Yes, it would.

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-Lloyd George became a hero

-among Welsh chapelgoers.

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-After a few years, he was MP

-for the boroughs of Caernarfon.

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-He was relatively unknown

-before this time.

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-One could argue that Wales's

-most prominent politician...

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-..with the possible exception

-of Aneurin Bevan...

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-..started his career in Llanfrothen.

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-.

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-888

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-888

-

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-It's great to travel around Wales

-with the band...

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-..and meeting local characters

-and hearing their stories.

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-I'm not the first happy wanderer

-to roam these parts.

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-Many important figures

-have passed through Llanfrothen.

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-Gerald of Wales - "We crossed

-Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bychan."

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-George Borrow - "Hello, Taffy!"

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-And me - "How are you, boy?"

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-We came across a famous story

-on our travels...

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-..for reasons

-that will become apparent.

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-The term 'hwntw' that refers

-to a person from South Wales...

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-..isn't welcomed in these parts.

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-Do you want to know why?

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-The story of Yr Hwntw Mawr.

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-Ironically, Yr Hwntw Mawr

-was from North Wales.

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-He got the name

-after working in the south.

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-His real name was Thomas Edwards -

-a big, strong, muscular man.

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-He was employed to fix the Cob

-after a large storm.

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-While working on the Cob,

-he heard about a stash of money...

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-..kept on a local farm

-and decided to steal it.

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-He hatched a plan.

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-He would steal from the house

-while its owners were harvesting...

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-..but Mary Jones, the maid,

-was still at home.

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-She was busy preparing food

-for the workers.

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-It doesn't take a genius

-to figure out what happened next.

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-Yr Hwntw Mawr killed Mary Jones

-with sheep shears.

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-Then he fled.

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-A large group chased him.

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-On the banks of the River Dwyryd,

-there was a massive fight.

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-One of the crew drowned.

-He was Mary Jones's uncle.

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-Yr Hwntw Mawr was caught.

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-His sentence?

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-On 17th April, 1813, in Dolgellau...

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-..he was publicly hanged.

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-He was the last person to be

-publicly hanged in Merionethshire.

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-Mary Jones

-was buried in Llanfrothen.

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-The name of her murderer...

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-..is inscribed on her grave.

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-I noticed that the village houses

-are all remarkably similar.

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-The same colour and shape

-and with quirky decorations.

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-It's all down

-to Sir Clough Williams-Ellis.

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-Robin, Clough's grandson,

-joined me at The Ring for a chat.

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-This is his local.

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-Where are you from?

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-Where are you from?

-

-Here - I'm a Llanfrothen boy.

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-I was born and raised

-at Cefn Cyffin up the road.

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-I live in Minffordd now

-due to my work at Portmeirion.

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-But this is my spiritual home

-- not The Ring itself!

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-I spent my youth roaming the hills

-with the local children.

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-We'd walk the Moelwyn, Cnicht,

-Croesor and Traeth Bach.

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-We were like wild goats

-wandering around the area.

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-Robin Llywelyn

-is proud of this area...

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-..and is delighted

-to share his family's history.

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-Plas Brondanw dates back

-to the 15th century.

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-It was built by a forefather

-of my grandfather.

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-My grandfather inherited the site

-at the start of the last century.

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-He was a young man at the time.

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-The creation of these gardens

-became his lifelong work.

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-For every pound that he earned,

-he spent a pound on the garden.

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-I think that this place inspired him

-to become an architect...

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-..who also designed landscapes.

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-It's a magical place.

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-I find it amusing

-that he built an unfinished tower.

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-He married Amabel Strachey in 1915.

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-At the time, he was serving

-with the Welsh Fusiliers.

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-His regiment wanted to give him

-a wedding gift.

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-They expected a silver dish,

-but his response was a ruin!

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-He asked them to fund

-the building of a ruin...

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-..as he had the ideal spot for it.

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-He had a concept to build a ruin.

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-In the 1920s, a worker for the

-National Monuments department...

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-..came in search of stories

-associated with ruins.

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-He came to The Ring

-and asked about this tower.

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-He was told that Mr Williams-Ellis

-had only just finished building it!

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-Between you and me, Sir Clough

-may have been a bit eccentric.

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-Never in Europe, says Robin!

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-What did Sir Clough do when the

-house burnt down in the 1950s?

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-He put the ashes in a pot

-and set it in a statue in the garden.

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-I love things like that.

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-He loved Welsh architecture,

-such as the limewashed cottages.

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-In Llanfrothen, he built

-such things as the Lodge...

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-..and the acorn-shaped structure

-on Cyffin Terrace.

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-He used local stone and slate

-but perfected traditional methods...

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-..so that they were more measured.

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-Yet, the style

-continues to be Welsh.

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-Sir Clough didn't only put his stamp

-on the area's buildings.

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-He attracted the English

-bohemian intelligentsia...

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-..to stay

-in the old quarry cottages.

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-They looked very different to us.

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-The one person who really

-stood out for me...

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-..was Patrick O'Brian, the author.

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-When I went to work on the farm,

-he wanted to help with the harvest.

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-I worked with a man

-who was in his seventies...

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-..who spoke very little English.

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-Of course, O'Brian

-couldn't speak Welsh at all.

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-This old man struggled

-to tell him what to do...

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-..so he turned to me and said,

-"You tell him!"

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-Did he learn any Welsh?

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-Did he learn any Welsh?

-

-Yes, he learnt quite a bit.

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-He would say to me,

-"Edgar, your grammar is terrible."

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-He would comment on my English.

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-He taught

-and corrected my English...

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-..and I taught him

-some Welsh vocabulary.

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-He was a proper and fastidious man.

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-I noticed that he wrote everything

-in a little black book.

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-He'd write, "Edgar says..."

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-He'd write, "Edgar says..."

-

-Edgar says.

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-I was his authority

-on certain aspects.

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-I'd listen to Edgar too!

0:19:120:19:14

-While Robin was in the pub,

-I had to ask one question.

0:19:140:19:18

-Portmeirion is one of the most

-amazing places I've ever visited.

0:19:180:19:22

-How did it come about?

0:19:230:19:24

-It was a total accident.

0:19:250:19:26

-He wanted to build

-the perfect seaside village.

0:19:270:19:30

-His great-uncle,

-Sir Osmond Williams...

0:19:310:19:34

-..asked him

-whether he knew anyone...

0:19:340:19:37

-..who wanted to buy

-a derelict estate at Aber Ia.

0:19:380:19:42

-Clough said that no-one would want

-a place in such a condition...

0:19:420:19:48

-..but he would be willing

-to take it off his uncle's hands.

0:19:480:19:52

-He acquired the place for next

-to nothing and built the village.

0:19:520:19:56

-It has a similar style

-to Plas Brondanw...

0:19:570:19:59

-..but it's more colourful,

-lively and flamboyant.

0:19:590:20:05

-He was more subtle at Plas Brondanw.

0:20:060:20:08

-Some suggest that Plas Brondanw

-is more important than Portmeirion.

0:20:080:20:14

-I'd like to live in Portmeirion.

0:20:140:20:16

-I'd like to live in Portmeirion.

-

-We have rooms to let!

0:20:160:20:18

-I love this place.

0:20:180:20:20

-But do you know what?

0:20:200:20:22

-The village, mansion, estate

-and The Ring is owned by a charity.

0:20:220:20:27

-As a result,

-they will never be sold...

0:20:270:20:29

-..but will remain in Welsh hands,

-just as Sir Clough wished.

0:20:290:20:34

-I'm always surprised at the wealth

-of history associated with pubs.

0:20:340:20:40

-I've only scratched the surface

-at The Ring.

0:20:400:20:43

-Edgar told me about Bob Owen

-of Croesor, a noted bibliophile.

0:20:430:20:48

-Robin spoke of local poets,

-such as Ioan Brothen.

0:20:500:20:56

-Poetry continues to be

-highly respected at The Ring.

0:20:560:21:00

-"I once read

-that beer was bad for me...

0:21:000:21:03

-"..so I gave up reading."

0:21:040:21:06

-Despite the predictions, the bar

-was full when the band arrived.

0:21:070:21:12

-Gruff had used Bryn Fon's poster

-in the window!

0:21:120:21:16

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:21:170:21:21

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:21:210:21:25

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-the devil's in the beer keg

0:21:250:21:29

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:21:290:21:32

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-so they say, so they say

0:21:320:21:37

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-so they say

0:21:370:21:40

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-a pub in heaven

0:21:410:21:43

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-so they say

0:21:440:21:47

-# It's full of deacons, so they say

0:21:470:21:51

-# It's full of deacons, so they say

0:21:510:21:54

-# It's full of deacons,

-full of deacons

0:21:540:21:58

-# It's full of deacons, so they say

0:21:580:22:02

-# St David is the barman,

-so they say

0:22:020:22:05

-# St David is the barman,

-so they say

0:22:050:22:08

-# St David is the barman,

-St David is the barman

0:22:090:22:12

-# St David is the barman,

-so they say

0:22:120:22:15

-# Yes, there's a pub in heaven,

-so they say

0:22:160:22:18

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-so they say

0:22:190:22:23

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-a pub in heaven

0:22:240:22:26

-# There's a pub in heaven,

-so they say

0:22:270:22:29

-# It's heaven in that pub,

-so they say

0:22:300:22:33

-# It's heaven in that pub,

-so they say

0:22:330:22:37

-# It's heaven in that pub,

-heaven in that pub

0:22:370:22:41

-# It's heaven in that pub,

-so they say

0:22:410:22:44

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:22:440:22:48

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:22:480:22:50

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-the devil's in the beer keg

0:22:510:22:54

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:22:550:22:58

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:22:580:23:01

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say

0:23:020:23:05

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-the devil's in the beer keg

0:23:050:23:08

-# The devil's in the beer keg,

-so they say #

0:23:090:23:14

-Thank you very much.

0:23:160:23:18

-Oh, I enjoyed that gig.

0:23:220:23:24

-"At Brondanw Arms, I had some fun

0:23:250:23:27

-"There was food and drink,

-and songs were sung

0:23:270:23:30

-"The beer made me weak,

-so I had to sleep

0:23:300:23:33

-"I'll turn out the light

-and bid you goodnight!"

0:23:330:23:37

-All together...

0:23:380:23:40

-# Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:23:400:23:45

-# Lleucu Llwyd,

-you're worth the world to me

0:23:450:23:50

-# Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:23:500:23:55

-# Lleucu Llwyd,

-I love you, you, you #

0:23:560:24:02

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