Byw'n Gynddeiriog Arctig Gwyllt Iolo Williams


Byw'n Gynddeiriog

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-A land of extremes.

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-Where fire and ice clash.

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-Ancient mountains

-give way to lush forests.

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-A forgotten wilderness.

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-Dazzling in its diversity.

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-Seasons of darkness

-and perpetual light...

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-..reveal life

-thriving against all odds.

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-Surviving a battle

-against the elements and each other.

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-In the remote north of Scandinavia

-lies a vast treeless wilderness.

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-The Arctic tundra.

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-The temperature

-rarely rises above freezing.

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-Very little grows.

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-For a short period,

-the surface thaws...

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-..revealing

-a carpet of moss and grass.

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-It is a harsh

-and unforgiving landscape.

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-Perhaps surprisingly,

-there's life here.

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-Major life.

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-Musk oxen.

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-Their thick, shaggy coats protect

-them from the extreme climate.

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-They are at home on the tundra.

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-It is autumn their mating season.

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-Males, each weighing

-as much as 400 kilos...

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-..charge each other

-at speeds of 40 kilometres an hour.

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-Females wait

-to see who will emerge victorious.

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-Between jousts, the males

-strut and posture like toreadors...

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-..in a ritual to intimidate.

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-A thick pad

-at the base of their horns...

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-..protects them

-from the worst ruts.

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-Sizing each other up, they get into

-position for yet another charge.

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-They may go 20 rounds

-before one of them retreats.

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-The loser is exiled.

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-He's lost the battle

-but not the war.

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-Next year, the males must fight

-for the females all over again.

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-Scandinavia

-is made up of five countries...

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-..encompassing an extreme range of

-climates in the northern hemisphere.

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-It is home to

-a diverse array of animals...

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-..uniquely adapted to survive

-in this ice-scarred region.

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-The only visitors

-to the this treeless expanse...

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-..are herds of reindeer.

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-They cannot survive winter here...

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-..so every autumn they migrate south

-to the shelter of the forests.

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-It's a busy time for breeding males.

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-The rutting period and migration...

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-..happen concurrently.

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-For more than three weeks,

-the males do nothing...

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-..but fight and mate

-while keeping on the move.

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-They live entirely

-off their fat reserves.

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-The herds travel

-as much as 50 kilometres every day.

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-They must leave before extreme

-conditions slam the door shut.

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-Winter closes in fast.

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-Temperatures plunge, often

-reaching minus 40 degrees Celsius.

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-Deep snow covers the land...

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-..and the sun disappears

-below the horizon for two months.

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-The only respite

-from the winter darkness...

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-..is this celestial spectacle -

-the Aurora Borealis.

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-To the south of the tundra

-lies a belt of forest...

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-..covering thousands

-of square kilometres...

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-..which extends

-through Norway, Sweden and Finland.

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-This forest

-is part of an even larger belt...

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-..extending across the continents

-of Eurasia and North America.

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-This is the largest

-expanse of forest in the world.

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-By March, the days are longer...

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-..but the temperatures

-are still well below freezing.

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-The red fox

-is on a constant search for food.

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-The sea eagle's usual food

-is buried under the ice.

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-Sea eagles rarely venture into

-the forest, but times are hard.

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-With its strength

-and sharp talons...

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-..it could easily catch a fox.

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-But on the ground,

-the fox has the advantage.

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-So it can risk

-stealing a scrap of food.

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-Its audacity pays off.

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-Scandinavian elk are the largest

-member of the deer family.

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-They search for food in the snow...

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-..but with no greenery

-to be found...

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-..they're forced to eat

-bark and twigs.

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-They must consume

-up to 20 kilos a day to survive.

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-Elk are the favourite prey

-of bears and wolves.

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-In these drifts, elk can't run fast.

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-But they can fight back.

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-Males can weigh up to 700 kilos.

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-A kick from such a large creature

-would inflict serious injury.

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-Despite the freezing conditions,

-ravens take time out to play.

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-These large, intelligent birds...

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-..shadow the forest's

-most adept predators...

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-..to make sure

-they get regular meals.

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-They rely on grey wolves.

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-This elk

-has not survived the winter.

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-The pack moves off,

-leaving the youngest on guard.

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-The ravens move in.

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-They can strip a carcass bare.

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-The young wolf

-does his best to see them off.

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-The scene

-has also attracted the attention...

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-..of another of the forest's

-predators - the big brown bear.

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-Bears that emerge early

-from hibernation are starving.

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-They will sniff out a carcass from

-more than three kilometres away.

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-He approaches with caution.

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-With the pack nearby, he grabs

-what he can and swiftly retreats.

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-Wolves and bears have competed

-for millennia in these rich forests.

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-A full-grown male brown bear

-can weigh over 300 kilos...

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-..more than four times that

-of an adult wolf.

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-But wolves have two advantages -

-agility and mutual understanding.

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-Their teamwork

-forces the bear to drop his food.

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-The wolves

-have won the battle and the food.

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-Even though

-the land is still frozen...

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-..this is

-the breeding season for some.

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-Whooper swans have arrived.

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-It's possible

-they spent the winter...

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-..in central or eastern Russia,

-thousands of miles away.

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-These swans mate for life...

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-..and return to the same place

-to raise their brood.

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-This noisy display

-lays claim to their patch...

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-..and serves as a warning

-for others to stay away.

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-Good territory is hard to come by.

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-Another pair has moved in.

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-The head down display is a

-warning and a challenge to a duel.

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-Whoopers are among

-the largest of the world's swans.

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-Their vicious battles could easily

-result in a broken neck or wing.

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-The female is standing by.

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-She joins in the fight.

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-The intruders are driven away...

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-..and the territory holders

-claim ownership.

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-The deep snows of winter work

-to the advantage of forest voles.

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-Tunnelling allows them to move

-around, out of sight of predators.

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-But nothing is invisible to such a

-gifted hunter as the great grey owl.

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-It has developed

-the perfect weapon.

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-The discs on the front of its face

-work like a sonar detector...

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-..amplifying the faintest of sounds.

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-It can hear a vole

-moving under half a metre of snow.

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-Turning its head to the sound...

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-..it knows to the nearest inch

-where its prey is hiding.

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-Owls' wings are completely silent.

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-The little vole

-has no idea of its impending doom.

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-As spring advances...

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-..there's one sound that

-all the forest dwellers can hear.

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-The male capercaillie.

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-It's mating season for them.

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-Weighing up to seven kilos, these

-males are almost as big as turkeys.

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-Their characteristic call

-resounds through the entire forest.

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-To other males, it's a battle cry.

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-As the males square up,

-an audience congregates.

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-Less colourful

-and smaller in size...

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-..the females

-are shopping for a mate.

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-The largest contenders challenge

-and fight the dominant male.

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-Their battles

-can be bloody, even fatal.

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-When it's over,

-females crouch and wait to be mated.

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-The loser

-is lucky to escape unscathed.

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-The winner claims his prize.

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-Further south

-the climate is much milder.

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-The deciduous forests of Denmark...

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-..support a very different

-cast of characters.

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-The red deer is the protagonist.

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-There are no wolves or bears here.

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-Man once hunted the deer

-close to extinction.

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-Now they are protected.

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-They are here in their thousands.

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-During spring and summer...

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-..the antlers the males shed

-in winter grow back.

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-The antlers are made of bone...

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-..and covered with

-a thin layer of skin like velvet.

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-They grow as much as

-three centimetres every day.

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-Size determines

-the pecking order among stags.

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-When autumn comes...

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-..antlers will be their

-main weapon in winning females.

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-They must fight

-for the right to mate.

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-As spring progresses...

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-..the ice and snow

-of the northern forest zone melts.

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-The layer of permafrost beneath

-prevents water draining away...

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-..and the area

-becomes a vast wetland.

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-Finland alone

-is home to 200,000 lakes.

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-These are rich in food...

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-..and a prime location

-for a variety of nesting birds.

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-A haunting call

-echoes through the morning mist.

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-Red-throated divers.

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-They've flown inland

-from the coast...

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-..to take advantage

-of the lake's bounty, and to nest.

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-Their plaintive wail

-serves as a mating call...

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-..and helps them claim territory.

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-Courtship is elegant.

-A synchronized swim.

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-Intruders aren't welcome.

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-Even in

-this bountiful environment...

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-..it's worth fighting

-for the best territory.

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-Victory is celebrated in style.

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-Birds aren't the only ones

-to enjoy this season of plenty...

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-..in the Scandinavian wetlands.

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-Lakes are

-an important feeding ground for elk.

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-Despite their bulk

-they are agile swimmers.

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-They can take their pick

-of succulent aquatic plants.

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-This male's antlers

-have just started growing.

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-By autumn,

-they'll be nearly two meters across.

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-Growing antlers

-demands a huge supply of minerals.

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-To meet it, the elk eats

-not five portions of greens a day...

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-..but 20 kilos.

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-The wolves have noticed

-the influx of water birds.

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-Two of them are lurking

-in the lakeside vegetation...

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-..eyeing the new arrivals.

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-The young wolf

-is merely curious about the birds...

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-..but its elder

-seizes a perfect opportunity.

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-The duck

-will satisfy his hunger for a while.

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-During the summer months,

-the tundra thaws.

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-Melting snow swells the rivers.

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-Fresh vegetation...

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-..is a signal for the musk oxen

-to descend to the valleys...

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-..to feast on wild flowers

-and young shoots.

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-They will gain weight quickly.

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-After the long, hard winter,

-life is a little more leisurely.

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-The rutting period

-is a distant memory...

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-..and the males

-are more tolerant of each other.

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-But the temptation

-is too strong for some.

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-On the tundra,

-the season of calm is a short one.

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-Is there peace?

-Not in the depths of the forest.

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-For once, the hungry brown bear

-thinks of something besides food.

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-This is their mating season.

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-The large males

-don't hesitate at all.

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-They fight to hold on to territory

-and win a female.

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-Standing two meters tall,

-armed with sharp teeth and claws...

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-..bears can be

-cruel and vicious warriors.

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-But these fierce fights

-are mostly about intimidation.

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-They rarely end in bloodshed.

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-The female awaits the outcome.

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-The loser exits,

-giving the victor carte blanche...

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-..to pursue the female.

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-For bears,

-courtship requires perseverance.

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-Females are only on heat

-every three to four years.

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-And both will mate with

-more than one partner in a season.

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-What appears to be scratching

-is in fact scent marking.

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-He's showing who's boss.

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-But the exertion has taken its toll.

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-He'll need a long sleep before

-he's ready for any more activity.

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-Late summer, and the landscape

-basks in the heat.

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-The bull elk's antlers

-have reached maturity...

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-..and he's shedding the velvet.

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-Blood attracts a swarm of flies.

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-With a width of almost two metres

-and a weight of 30 kilos...

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-..the antlers are now as wide

-as a man's outstretched arms.

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-This impressive spread

-shows that he's in his prime...

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-..and less likely

-to be a target for predators.

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-These noble horns

-indicate that he's ready to mate.

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-On the edge of the forest...

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-..squawking ravens alert the

-wolf pack to a feeding opportunity.

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-This time, it's the wolves

-that follow the ravens to the food.

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-The birds' warm welcome...

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-..has attracted

-a big turn-out to the feast.

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-The wolves' old rival, the bear,

-is also moving in.

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-The pack approaches with caution.

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-The bear

-has beaten the wolves to the prize.

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-A solitary wolf

-is no match for a bear...

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-..but he decides to risk it.

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-They exercise caution.

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-The commotion attracts more wolves.

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-This is dangerous, and the bear

-tries to escape with his portion.

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-Another bear appears.

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-But it is only a temporary alliance.

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-The wolves are lifelong friends.

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-The well-drilled pack

-outwit the enemy at every turn.

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-Once again, the bear loses his meal.

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-The second bear vanishes too.

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-Since the bear

-hasn't acquired any meat at all...

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-..he must satisfy his hunger

-with plants, nuts and insects.

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-Meat is not essential but

-it is the best way to grow quickly.

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-With summer almost over,

-time is of the essence.

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-If the bear fails to gain enough

-weight in the next few weeks...

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-..he will not survive the winter.

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-It's now autumn.

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-The bull elk's antlers

-are completely free of velvet.

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-Female elk are in season.

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-Solitary males only congregate

-at this time of year.

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-The females are on heat for just

-three days over the coming weeks.

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-Younger, subordinate males

-are no match for the bull...

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-..and they keep their distance.

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-His whole year

-has been leading up to this moment.

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-Mating is brief.

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-The male has to lift

-his 500-kilo bulk onto the female.

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-The rest can only look on with envy.

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-Better luck next year, lads!

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-In Denmark's forests, the red deer

-must fight to retain its territory.

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-Its bellow is a war cry and

-also a way of attracting females.

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-A stag that bellows the loudest and

-most frequent gets the entire harem.

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-He'll challenge any rival male

-who dares to approach.

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-They compare antlers, and

-if they have to, they will fight.

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-During combat

-he must leave his harem...

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-..but still keep watch

-at the same time.

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-If he is

-to hold on to his females...

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-..he must respond to every

-challenge and win every battle.

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-Battles can last

-for up to six weeks...

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-..until he wins the day.

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-By the end of October,

-autumn is turning to winter.

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-The first snow arrives.

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-The brown bear has delayed

-hibernation as long as possible.

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-Food has been scarce this year.

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-He must find one big meal

-before his winter sleep.

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-Food in the forest is scarce

-but the hungry bear is in luck.

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-An elk carcass.

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-The big, heavy bear

-tests the frozen lake.

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-He's aware that he might yet again

-lose his meal to sly wolves.

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-He's not alone.

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-It's not a wolf pack

-but a wolverine.

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-He hesitates to take on the bear.

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-The bear drags his prize

-to the safety of the shore...

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-..hoping he won't lose it

-in the lake's icy water.

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-Unlike bears, wolverines

-don't have to hibernate in winter.

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-It's in no rush.

0:43:520:43:54

-This time, the bear can enjoy

-his meal without interruption.

0:44:170:44:21

-The wolverine may return...

0:44:220:44:24

-..for the rest of the carcass

-once the bear has finished.

0:44:240:44:28

-Now he's full, it's time to sleep...

0:45:160:45:19

-..until spring rouses him again.

0:45:190:45:22

-Another year has passed...

0:46:160:46:20

-..and once again

-winter grips the land.

0:46:200:46:23

-Animals

-have had to learn to survive...

0:46:230:46:26

-..in this mysterious

-and hostile landscape.

0:46:270:46:29

-Some, like the bear,

-escape in sleep...

0:46:320:46:36

-..while others search for shelter

-or migrate to warmer climes.

0:46:360:46:40

-One animal, however,

-stands its ground through it all.

0:46:450:46:48

-With temperatures

-well below freezing...

0:47:010:47:04

-..musk oxen face the most formidable

-opponent of all the Arctic winter.

0:47:040:47:10

-Their battle of endurance

-will last more than six months.

0:47:130:47:17

-But musk oxen

-have adapted well to the cold.

0:47:170:47:22

-They have been residents in the icy

-north for more than 40,000 years...

0:47:260:47:31

-..and once shared this realm

-with woolly mammoths.

0:47:310:47:35

-In this never-ending fight

-for survival...

0:47:370:47:41

-..they're holding on to life.

0:47:420:47:44

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:47:560:47:58

-.

0:47:580:47:59

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