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Today I am journeying around Hampshire. | 0:00:24 | 0:00:26 | |
From hills and heaths, to farmland and rivers. | 0:00:26 | 0:00:29 | |
It's a very English landscape. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
Nestling in all that lush countryside, | 0:00:31 | 0:00:35 | |
are chocolate-box villages like Botley. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:38 | |
It was once described as the most delightful village in the world. | 0:00:39 | 0:00:43 | |
I'll be walking in the footsteps of its most famous resident, | 0:00:43 | 0:00:47 | |
journalist, radical politician, | 0:00:47 | 0:00:49 | |
farmer and traveller, William Cobbett. | 0:00:49 | 0:00:51 | |
'He was a man who made his name roving around England on horseback | 0:00:53 | 0:00:57 | |
'documenting the plight of the humble farm labourer | 0:00:57 | 0:00:59 | |
'in the early 19th century.' | 0:00:59 | 0:01:01 | |
And it's journeys past I'll be exploring today | 0:01:01 | 0:01:04 | |
in this special edition of Countryfile. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:07 | |
I'm joined by some of the Countryfile team | 0:01:08 | 0:01:10 | |
to look back on the many different journeys we've made around the UK. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
Like when Julia let the train take the strain | 0:01:16 | 0:01:19 | |
as she travelled on a rather unusual commuter route. | 0:01:19 | 0:01:22 | |
You've got to admit, it brightens up a train journey. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:24 | |
Matt saddled up to follow ancient packhorse trails. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:30 | |
Such a great experience to be travelling these routes | 0:01:30 | 0:01:32 | |
that so many packhorses have done before you. | 0:01:32 | 0:01:35 | |
It just feels really rugged, he feels so rooted in this landscape. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
And John was in good company when he took to the high seas in Wales. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:46 | |
-You don't see boats like this every day. -You don't. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:49 | |
You must be very proud of her. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:50 | |
In the midst of Hampshire in the Hamble Valley | 0:01:59 | 0:02:01 | |
is the village of Botley, | 0:02:01 | 0:02:03 | |
once home to 19th-century political journalist and former, | 0:02:03 | 0:02:07 | |
William Cobbett. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:08 | |
He described his home as... | 0:02:08 | 0:02:10 | |
'The most delightful village in the world. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:13 | |
'It is everything in a village I love and none of the things I hate.' | 0:02:13 | 0:02:17 | |
Cobbett was the son of a farmer. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:21 | |
He cared passionately about traditional farming and rural life. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:25 | |
He even started his own newspaper, The Political Register. | 0:02:25 | 0:02:29 | |
And like a modern-day journalist he'd go out and get his own stories. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:32 | |
One issue he returned to again and again | 0:02:32 | 0:02:35 | |
was the plight of the rural Englishman. | 0:02:35 | 0:02:37 | |
'Cobbett's famed for travelling | 0:02:39 | 0:02:40 | |
'all over the countryside of southern England, | 0:02:40 | 0:02:43 | |
'and now I'm walking in his footsteps | 0:02:43 | 0:02:45 | |
'through his favourite bit of Hampshire, on the Cobbett Trail.' | 0:02:45 | 0:02:48 | |
What a lovely house. | 0:02:48 | 0:02:49 | |
'Barbara Biddell is a real fan of this countryman | 0:02:49 | 0:02:52 | |
'who cared so passionately about traditional rural life.' | 0:02:52 | 0:02:56 | |
What sort of a man was Cobbett? | 0:02:56 | 0:02:58 | |
Well, he was a man who loved the country. | 0:02:58 | 0:03:01 | |
But he was a man who had a great belief in himself. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:05 | |
He was quite determined that he was going to fulfil | 0:03:05 | 0:03:08 | |
what he wanted to do which was to be a member of Parliament. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:11 | |
So brought him here to Botley? | 0:03:11 | 0:03:13 | |
What he wanted to do was to give his children a good country living, | 0:03:13 | 0:03:17 | |
to be able to see the primroses in the fields, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:21 | |
to follow the hounds, | 0:03:21 | 0:03:22 | |
to see the hares, and he got to Botley | 0:03:22 | 0:03:25 | |
where he found the farms were small, the cottages were neat, | 0:03:25 | 0:03:28 | |
the people were civil, not servile, | 0:03:28 | 0:03:32 | |
and he could establish himself in Botley. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:36 | |
'Cobbett championed the plight of the farm labourer | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
'railing against everything from tithes to the Land Enclosure Act | 0:03:39 | 0:03:44 | |
'which deprived country people of their means of earning a living.' | 0:03:44 | 0:03:47 | |
He would attack the ministers | 0:03:47 | 0:03:49 | |
and say why should the ministers have £18,000 a year | 0:03:49 | 0:03:54 | |
when agricultural labourers | 0:03:54 | 0:03:57 | |
had not enough money to feed their wives and families? | 0:03:57 | 0:04:00 | |
'Cobbett campaigned relentlessly for political reform, | 0:04:00 | 0:04:03 | |
'and soon realised the best way to effect change | 0:04:03 | 0:04:06 | |
'was to become a politician himself.' | 0:04:06 | 0:04:08 | |
So his life, really, | 0:04:08 | 0:04:09 | |
was an impressive one considering his humble farm beginnings. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:13 | |
It was extremely impressive | 0:04:13 | 0:04:15 | |
when you think of where he got to from what he was, yes. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:17 | |
I mean, it was astonishing. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:19 | |
'Further along the trail is Cobbett's old parish church. | 0:04:23 | 0:04:26 | |
'The famous countryside campaigner worshipped here, | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
'but his real love was always the land.' | 0:04:30 | 0:04:32 | |
How much did farming interest him? | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
A great deal, he loved his farm. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:37 | |
Even though he went bankrupt, | 0:04:37 | 0:04:39 | |
he still got hold of another farm, he couldn't be without a farm. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
But he used his farm for experimenting, | 0:04:43 | 0:04:45 | |
and he was working out how to feed his cattle on swedes, | 0:04:45 | 0:04:50 | |
which he then, he put up a steaming shed | 0:04:50 | 0:04:53 | |
because he thought that | 0:04:53 | 0:04:54 | |
that would soften them, I suppose, for the cows. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:57 | |
Extraordinary thing to do. | 0:04:57 | 0:04:58 | |
Expensive, isn't it, experimenting in farming? | 0:04:58 | 0:05:00 | |
Well, it was really, | 0:05:00 | 0:05:01 | |
because he didn't put the chimney up high enough so it all caught fire. | 0:05:01 | 0:05:05 | |
Luckily all the animals were rescued. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:07 | |
He sounds like a bit of a character. | 0:05:07 | 0:05:09 | |
He was. He was a remarkable man, | 0:05:09 | 0:05:11 | |
and he, at his death, | 0:05:11 | 0:05:13 | |
a great many people went to his funeral | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
and he had an obituary in The Times. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:18 | |
"This man was one of | 0:05:18 | 0:05:19 | |
"the greatest writers of the English language that there had been." | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
Gosh. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:24 | |
-So that was quite something. -Quite a compliment. -Yes, tremendous. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:27 | |
'William Cobbett was a man of real passion and vision. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:32 | |
'One of his most extraordinary legacies was his book, Rural Rides, | 0:05:32 | 0:05:35 | |
'which documented his horse rides across the country. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:39 | |
'But more of that later.' | 0:05:39 | 0:05:41 | |
Now in William Cobbett's day, | 0:05:41 | 0:05:42 | |
before goods were transported by barge, lorry, and aeroplane, | 0:05:42 | 0:05:45 | |
cargo was moved around the country using packhorses. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:48 | |
Matt took a trip to the South Pennines | 0:05:48 | 0:05:51 | |
to experience what it was like. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:53 | |
'I'm in the rolling hills of Rossendale | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
'on a timeworn trail through the heart of this bleak country.' | 0:06:01 | 0:06:05 | |
For thousands of years before the days of road and rail | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
the only way to cross the mighty Pennines was on one of these, | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
on a packhorse trail. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:15 | |
Come on, son, let's go. | 0:06:15 | 0:06:18 | |
'Trails like these ran the length and breadth of Britain. | 0:06:18 | 0:06:21 | |
'But they were bleak and isolated. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
'Lone travellers risked life and limb | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
'in these harsh, unforgiving hills. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:27 | |
'The only safe way to travel was with others, | 0:06:27 | 0:06:30 | |
'and packhorses were strung together in trains | 0:06:30 | 0:06:32 | |
'to make the arduous crossing.' | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
Good lad! | 0:06:35 | 0:06:36 | |
'Historian Sue Day has brought her cob along to meet me. | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
'Bilbo here is the kind of horse that worked these trails.' | 0:06:39 | 0:06:42 | |
How are you on this blustery day? Are you all right? | 0:06:43 | 0:06:46 | |
We're OK, we're used to it! | 0:06:46 | 0:06:48 | |
How's Bilbo, more's to the point? | 0:06:48 | 0:06:50 | |
He's fine, he lives out here 365 days of the year, | 0:06:50 | 0:06:52 | |
so it is nothing to him. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:53 | |
He's looking the part with all this gear. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:55 | |
He has a side load on but he could even have a top load too. | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
-Right. -We could have piled him higher still. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
Because at one time packhorses were the motorway of their age. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
You have got to imagine anything that needed to be transported, | 0:07:04 | 0:07:07 | |
lime, stone, coal, | 0:07:07 | 0:07:09 | |
either the person carried it | 0:07:09 | 0:07:11 | |
or you'd get the horse to do it, wouldn't you, if you could. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:14 | |
The packhorses of their day, how much stuff would they have carried? | 0:07:14 | 0:07:17 | |
Two hundredweight in old terms, | 0:07:17 | 0:07:19 | |
so it'd take ten horses to carry one tonne between them. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
And that's why you had these big packhorse trains, | 0:07:22 | 0:07:25 | |
30, 40, even 60 horses in a train. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:27 | |
Speaking of moving, are you getting restless, Bilbo? | 0:07:27 | 0:07:29 | |
Do you want to take a little wander? | 0:07:29 | 0:07:31 | |
He says I could do 30 miles! | 0:07:31 | 0:07:32 | |
I'm sure he could! | 0:07:32 | 0:07:34 | |
When did these trails die out, then? Why? | 0:07:34 | 0:07:37 | |
The packhorse era was mostly in the mediaeval period, | 0:07:37 | 0:07:39 | |
it went right up to the 1750s, | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
and what's made packhorses begin to be used less | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
was the arrival of better road systems, | 0:07:45 | 0:07:48 | |
then vehicles began to take over, | 0:07:48 | 0:07:50 | |
but also you see, you would hit the canal building era as well. | 0:07:50 | 0:07:53 | |
The cargo inside that boat was 20 tonnes, | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
so there's a bit of a difference, isn't there? | 0:07:56 | 0:07:58 | |
'Time to get back on my horse, Danny.' | 0:07:58 | 0:08:00 | |
We've got a gate to negotiate here. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:07 | |
Here we go. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:10 | |
'Well I haven't ridden for a few months, | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
'so I think this gate will test us both.' | 0:08:12 | 0:08:14 | |
Good lad! Who's a good boy? | 0:08:14 | 0:08:16 | |
Spin around. Go on, son. | 0:08:16 | 0:08:19 | |
Go on, go on. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:21 | |
Stay. | 0:08:22 | 0:08:23 | |
Good boy. My trusty steed. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:28 | |
'Nicely done.' | 0:08:28 | 0:08:30 | |
I tell you what, I am just loving this. | 0:08:30 | 0:08:33 | |
Such a great experience to be travelling these routes | 0:08:35 | 0:08:37 | |
that so many packhorses have done before you, | 0:08:37 | 0:08:40 | |
and it just feels really rugged. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:43 | |
He feels so rooted in this landscape. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:45 | |
'I've really enjoyed travelling along the trail today | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
'but it's time to get out of the saddle.' | 0:09:01 | 0:09:03 | |
No doubting Matt completely fell | 0:09:05 | 0:09:07 | |
head over hoof in love with Danny the cob. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:09 | |
For John it was a love of the Welsh coastline | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
that took him to the Llyn peninsula and on a memorable boat journey. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:19 | |
The sea is a constant presence on the Llyn peninsula. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:24 | |
It helps create the climate | 0:09:24 | 0:09:25 | |
and dominates the way of life here. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:27 | |
Although they may not look it today, | 0:09:27 | 0:09:29 | |
these waters can be some of the most treacherous on our coastline. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:32 | |
To discover more I have arranged a date | 0:09:35 | 0:09:38 | |
with a bit of a stunner by the name of Vilma. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
And there she is. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:42 | |
She looks beautiful, I can't wait to get on board. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:45 | |
'Conditions don't get more perfect than on a day like this. | 0:09:51 | 0:09:55 | |
'I'm joining Scott Metcalfe and his crew to get a real sense | 0:09:56 | 0:10:00 | |
'of what it's like to sail this coast.' | 0:10:00 | 0:10:02 | |
-You don't see boats like this everyday, do you? -You don't. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:09 | |
You must be very proud of her. | 0:10:09 | 0:10:10 | |
Tell me a little bit about the history of this boat. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:13 | |
She was built in 1934 in Denmark | 0:10:13 | 0:10:16 | |
as a fishing boat. | 0:10:16 | 0:10:17 | |
And what have you transformed her into? | 0:10:17 | 0:10:19 | |
Because she doesn't look much like a fishing boat now! | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
No. The whole form is very much like the old British sailing coasters. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:26 | |
So we based her on a trading schooner | 0:10:26 | 0:10:28 | |
and we've rigged her as such. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:30 | |
So she looks now | 0:10:30 | 0:10:31 | |
much like a lot of coastal sailing boats | 0:10:31 | 0:10:33 | |
popping into harbours around the coast would have looked | 0:10:33 | 0:10:36 | |
100 or so years ago? | 0:10:36 | 0:10:37 | |
100, 200 years ago, yes. | 0:10:37 | 0:10:39 | |
This would have been very familiar on this coast. | 0:10:39 | 0:10:41 | |
How dangerous are the waters around here? | 0:10:41 | 0:10:44 | |
They are particularly bad around this part of the coast. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:46 | |
It is a very rocky shore. | 0:10:46 | 0:10:48 | |
There are not many lights on this coast. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:50 | |
There's Bardsey Lighthouse, and the next major light | 0:10:50 | 0:10:53 | |
is actually on the north of Anglesey, | 0:10:53 | 0:10:55 | |
so that's a long way away, so it's virtually an unlit coast. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
Well, to show you just how perilous it can be | 0:10:58 | 0:11:01 | |
in the past 180 years | 0:11:01 | 0:11:02 | |
no less than 142 ships have been wrecked around the peninsula, | 0:11:02 | 0:11:06 | |
and one in particular has become something of a legend. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:10 | |
It came to grief just over there. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:13 | |
'To learn more I'm heading for dry land | 0:11:17 | 0:11:19 | |
'and I've got my own personal escorts to take me back to shore. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
'It's 110 years since The Stuart, a cargo ship | 0:11:25 | 0:11:28 | |
'a lot larger than this vessel, set sail from Liverpool | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
'heading for New Zealand, but it didn't get very far. | 0:11:31 | 0:11:33 | |
'Local historian Tony Jones has studied the story.' | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
Well, Tony, tell me exactly what happened. | 0:11:41 | 0:11:44 | |
Well, it was Easter Sunday, early hours of the morning, | 0:11:44 | 0:11:48 | |
and it was thick fog, and pretty calm, like today, actually. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:54 | |
She got lost, did she? | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
She got completely lost because of the dense fog. | 0:11:56 | 0:11:58 | |
So where did she come ashore? | 0:11:58 | 0:12:00 | |
She come ashore just the other side of that big rock there. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:02 | |
She sailed right up to the rocks | 0:12:02 | 0:12:04 | |
and came crashing onto the rocks with a thundering roar, I'd imagine. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
And what happened to the crew? Were they injured? | 0:12:08 | 0:12:11 | |
They were very fortunate, | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
they got into a lifeboat and came ashore into a bay over there. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:16 | |
The plan of action was to come back at dawn, | 0:12:16 | 0:12:18 | |
and get back on board, and sail it away. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
And when they did come back in the morning | 0:12:21 | 0:12:23 | |
they could see straight away she'd broken her keel, | 0:12:23 | 0:12:26 | |
she'd more or less broken in half by then. | 0:12:26 | 0:12:28 | |
So it was a lost cause. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:30 | |
-No way they were going to New Zealand. -No way! | 0:12:30 | 0:12:32 | |
So what about her cargo? | 0:12:32 | 0:12:34 | |
She carried a mixed cargo of porcelain, | 0:12:34 | 0:12:37 | |
cotton, there was even six grand pianos! | 0:12:37 | 0:12:40 | |
-Really? -Yes! | 0:12:40 | 0:12:41 | |
And one of the local guys, | 0:12:41 | 0:12:43 | |
he injured his back trying to carry one up the path here. | 0:12:43 | 0:12:46 | |
-So people helped themselves then, did they? -Oh, yes. | 0:12:46 | 0:12:48 | |
But the star prize was the whiskey. | 0:12:48 | 0:12:50 | |
Whiskey galore? | 0:12:50 | 0:12:52 | |
What they called at the time, | 0:12:52 | 0:12:54 | |
there was a large consignment of whiskey in her, | 0:12:54 | 0:12:57 | |
and being a Sunday | 0:12:57 | 0:12:58 | |
no-one was in a hurry to let the Customs know about the wreck, | 0:12:58 | 0:13:03 | |
and by the time Mr Mason Cumberland, the chief Customs officer, | 0:13:03 | 0:13:10 | |
arrived from Caernarfon, there were literally hundreds of people here. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
Some said they were like a swarm of locusts all over the wreck. | 0:13:13 | 0:13:19 | |
And a lot of the stuff had gone. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:21 | |
All the good stuff, anyway! | 0:13:21 | 0:13:24 | |
Did they have to hide it or anything? | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
Yes, they used to hide them in rabbit holes, but the thing is, | 0:13:26 | 0:13:29 | |
they used to get so drunk they couldn't remember where they were. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:32 | |
And they were still finding the odd bottle here only 30 years ago. | 0:13:32 | 0:13:36 | |
-Down a rabbit hole. -Down rabbit holes, yes. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:38 | |
They carried on even underneath the Customs' eyes. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
One way of getting the whiskey up the path | 0:13:41 | 0:13:44 | |
was women used to have bottles of whiskey in their bloomers, | 0:13:44 | 0:13:47 | |
and there's one account of the Customs man stopping one woman | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
and she had her hands in her pockets, | 0:13:51 | 0:13:53 | |
and he said put her hands up to frisk her, | 0:13:53 | 0:13:55 | |
so she went like that, | 0:13:55 | 0:13:57 | |
her bloomers fell down, | 0:13:57 | 0:13:58 | |
with the two bottles of whiskey in them. | 0:13:58 | 0:14:01 | |
And was anybody ever arrested for all of this? | 0:14:01 | 0:14:03 | |
Well, there's no account of anybody at all being arrested | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
which I find quite strange, | 0:14:06 | 0:14:08 | |
but I think, who could they arrest? | 0:14:08 | 0:14:11 | |
They would have had to arrest the whole peninsula. | 0:14:11 | 0:14:14 | |
And interrupt a great party. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:16 | |
The party went on for months apparently. | 0:14:16 | 0:14:18 | |
They said it was the best Easter egg that this village ever had. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:23 | |
'Now all that's left, apart from the folklore, | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
'are a few battered remains of the wreck. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
'A warning to modern-day sailors to respect this stretch of coast.' | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
'We're celebrating great journeys, | 0:14:38 | 0:14:40 | |
'so I've come to Hampshire | 0:14:40 | 0:14:41 | |
'on the trail of William Cobbett, | 0:14:41 | 0:14:43 | |
'a 19th century farmer, radical politician, and journalist. | 0:14:43 | 0:14:46 | |
'Writing was his passion, as was the English countryside.' | 0:14:47 | 0:14:51 | |
When he thought it was under threat from rapid industrialisation | 0:14:53 | 0:14:57 | |
he took to riding around the countryside on horseback | 0:14:57 | 0:15:00 | |
to investigate what was happening in the towns and villages. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
His book, Rural Rides, was the result. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:07 | |
'My object was not to see inns and turnpike roads, | 0:15:09 | 0:15:12 | |
'but to see the country, | 0:15:12 | 0:15:14 | |
'to see the farmers at home and see the labourers in the fields. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:18 | |
'And to do this we must go either on foot or on horseback.' | 0:15:18 | 0:15:22 | |
'In his day, Cobbett could ride across country | 0:15:23 | 0:15:26 | |
'going pretty much where he fancied. | 0:15:26 | 0:15:28 | |
'He loved this area | 0:15:28 | 0:15:29 | |
'and his descriptions of the countryside embellish his books.' | 0:15:29 | 0:15:33 | |
His large house has now disappeared, | 0:15:33 | 0:15:34 | |
but he did plant all those very tall trees behind me, | 0:15:34 | 0:15:38 | |
had a keen interest in horticulture | 0:15:38 | 0:15:40 | |
and an eye for making money planting new trees | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
in the hope of successfully marketing them. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:45 | |
'The English countryside may have changed much since his day, | 0:15:45 | 0:15:48 | |
'but amazingly Rural Rides is still in print, | 0:15:48 | 0:15:52 | |
'180 years after it was first published.' | 0:15:52 | 0:15:54 | |
That's the River Hamble, | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
it's a tidal river, | 0:15:56 | 0:15:58 | |
and in Cobbett's day it would have been busy with boats | 0:15:58 | 0:16:00 | |
going up and down to Botley's wharf and mill | 0:16:00 | 0:16:02 | |
delivering coal, wheat and flour. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
'But our waterways aren't just a means of transporting goods. | 0:16:07 | 0:16:11 | |
'They're jewels in our landscape. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:12 | |
'As I discovered when I headed to Loch Etive | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
'in western Scotland back in the autumn. | 0:16:15 | 0:16:16 | |
'My skipper for the day is Donald. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:22 | |
'He is the latest in a family line of Loch Etive boatsmen. | 0:16:22 | 0:16:25 | |
'He's carrying on the tradition, | 0:16:25 | 0:16:26 | |
'running boat trips for tourists and fishermen.' | 0:16:26 | 0:16:29 | |
So your father was a boatman, too. | 0:16:29 | 0:16:32 | |
And his father before as well. | 0:16:32 | 0:16:33 | |
-Really? -So it's three generations now. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
As a child with my father I'd be coming up and down every day | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
and get to know the loch quite well after a while. | 0:16:39 | 0:16:42 | |
Lucky you, getting to work here. | 0:16:42 | 0:16:44 | |
-It's a nice occupation. -Yes. | 0:16:44 | 0:16:46 | |
'My first stop is at Dunstaffnage Castle, | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
'standing guard where Loch Etive meets the sea. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
'The castle is one of the oldest in Scotland, nearly 800 years old.' | 0:16:56 | 0:17:01 | |
Built to protect Argyll from invading Norwegians | 0:17:02 | 0:17:05 | |
it sits at a strategic spot | 0:17:05 | 0:17:07 | |
for anyone trying to attack Scotland from the West, | 0:17:07 | 0:17:10 | |
but its most famous moment came a mere 265 years ago | 0:17:10 | 0:17:15 | |
when for a brief period it was the unwanted home of a Highland heroine. | 0:17:15 | 0:17:19 | |
'Flora MacDonald was imprisoned in the castle in 1746 | 0:17:20 | 0:17:24 | |
'after she smuggled Bonnie Prince Charlie to Skye. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:27 | |
'Famously he dressed as her female servant to aid his escape.' | 0:17:27 | 0:17:30 | |
Mind you, it's not a bad place to be imprisoned, is it? | 0:17:30 | 0:17:33 | |
The northern half of Loch Etive is the least accessible, | 0:17:44 | 0:17:47 | |
and therefore the most tranquil. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:49 | |
Possibly one of the few remaining places of true wilderness | 0:17:49 | 0:17:53 | |
left in the country. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:54 | |
And with that comes great opportunities to spot wildlife. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
'I've arranged for Philip Price to join me | 0:18:02 | 0:18:05 | |
'for the next leg of my journey.' | 0:18:05 | 0:18:06 | |
-Some serious kit you've got there. -Yes. It does the job. | 0:18:06 | 0:18:09 | |
'He's a wildlife photographer, passionate about | 0:18:09 | 0:18:11 | |
'the flora and fauna of his homeland.' | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
So, Philip, what is it about Loch Etive | 0:18:19 | 0:18:21 | |
that is so great for wildlife photography? | 0:18:21 | 0:18:24 | |
It's the variety you get in Loch Etive, it's absolutely astonishing. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:29 | |
Just where we are travelling up now, | 0:18:29 | 0:18:31 | |
that's the back of Ben Cruachan up there, | 0:18:31 | 0:18:33 | |
so on the top of Ben Cruachan | 0:18:33 | 0:18:35 | |
you will get hares, all the real mountain, alpine animals. | 0:18:35 | 0:18:38 | |
-Wow. -Come down the slopes, you get these woodlands. | 0:18:38 | 0:18:41 | |
That's Inverawe over there, | 0:18:41 | 0:18:42 | |
and there is a phenomenal place for red squirrels. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:46 | |
You come down onto the lochside | 0:18:46 | 0:18:48 | |
and you'll get cormorants, shags, eiders, you name it, | 0:18:48 | 0:18:52 | |
you've got all of your marine life down here. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:54 | |
We've even seen otters along the coast here. | 0:18:54 | 0:18:56 | |
So, in terms of pure diversity, you simply can't beat Loch Etive, | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
it's a wonderful place. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:00 | |
'After venturing north to the quietest part of the loch | 0:19:00 | 0:19:03 | |
'we find what we were looking for.' | 0:19:03 | 0:19:05 | |
Aren't they awesome? Look at that" | 0:19:07 | 0:19:09 | |
You couldn't even dream up that scene, could you? | 0:19:10 | 0:19:12 | |
It's just mind-boggling, | 0:19:12 | 0:19:14 | |
to see this many here, in this location. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:17 | |
And I come here quite regularly. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:18 | |
It's just astonishing. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:22 | |
-Do I did have a go then? -Yes. Fire away. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
What you want to do is get the centre square | 0:19:24 | 0:19:26 | |
when you look through the viewfinder right over the animal's head, | 0:19:26 | 0:19:29 | |
and that means the head of the animal will be in focus. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:32 | |
And when you look through that lens | 0:19:32 | 0:19:34 | |
you will see how gorgeous these animals are. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:36 | |
-It's amazing. -And just the scenery and the wildlife. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:39 | |
I was hoping we'd see seals, | 0:19:39 | 0:19:41 | |
but you just never know. | 0:19:41 | 0:19:43 | |
And when it happens, | 0:19:43 | 0:19:44 | |
I'll never get bored of doing wildlife photography, | 0:19:44 | 0:19:48 | |
that unknown, when it does happen, just makes it all the more sweeter. | 0:19:48 | 0:19:51 | |
Oh, wow! Look at that one! | 0:19:53 | 0:19:55 | |
Coming up on this celebration of great journeys... | 0:19:59 | 0:20:03 | |
Adam gets a new perspective on some old rocks. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:06 | |
The sea has broken through that rock, | 0:20:06 | 0:20:08 | |
and now is wearing away at the inside. | 0:20:08 | 0:20:12 | |
Matt helps drive some sheep, but without the aid of wheels. | 0:20:12 | 0:20:15 | |
Hang on! Don't go in front of the car. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:17 | |
Great, there's a car coming in behind us(!) | 0:20:17 | 0:20:19 | |
It's like the M25. | 0:20:19 | 0:20:20 | |
And there's the Countryfile five-day weather forecast. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:24 | |
Now it was a cold winter's day | 0:20:30 | 0:20:32 | |
when Julia went to explore the area | 0:20:32 | 0:20:34 | |
around Barnsley and Huddersfield. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:37 | |
It's known to many as the Old West Riding, and she soon discovered | 0:20:37 | 0:20:40 | |
a short journey on a commuter route could be a surprising one. | 0:20:40 | 0:20:44 | |
It looks like an ordinary train, | 0:20:44 | 0:20:46 | |
it makes the noise of an ordinary train, | 0:20:46 | 0:20:48 | |
but this is no ordinary train. | 0:20:48 | 0:20:50 | |
The 12.17 from Huddersfield is the music train. | 0:21:04 | 0:21:09 | |
You've got to admit, it brightens up the train journey. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
-It's an unusual venue, isn't it? -Yes. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:26 | |
How do people generally react? | 0:21:26 | 0:21:27 | |
Not everyone knows they're getting on the music train, obviously. | 0:21:27 | 0:21:30 | |
No. There are usually quite a few surprised looks. | 0:21:30 | 0:21:33 | |
And always a positive response? | 0:21:33 | 0:21:34 | |
Yes, usually. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:36 | |
We are all freelance musicians | 0:21:36 | 0:21:37 | |
and play in lots of different conditions, | 0:21:37 | 0:21:39 | |
and this is one of our favourite gigs, really. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:42 | |
And one of the most unusual. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:44 | |
Yes, that as well. | 0:21:44 | 0:21:45 | |
'So why are they doing this? | 0:21:48 | 0:21:50 | |
'Well, it's all part of a strategy to keep this line running. | 0:21:50 | 0:21:53 | |
'The Penistone Line is a true survivor, | 0:21:53 | 0:21:55 | |
'narrowly missing the infamous axe of Dr Beeching in the 60s, | 0:21:55 | 0:21:58 | |
'and further threats to its existence in the 1980s. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:00 | |
'But now it carries over a million passengers a year, | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
'partly down to regular events like this, | 0:22:06 | 0:22:08 | |
'and the volunteers that run them.' | 0:22:08 | 0:22:11 | |
The views are absolutely stunning, difficult to beat. | 0:22:11 | 0:22:14 | |
It's fantastic, and back in the 1880s | 0:22:14 | 0:22:17 | |
one writer described the line as going | 0:22:17 | 0:22:19 | |
through scenes of surpassing loveliness. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:21 | |
-Very lovely. -It still does. | 0:22:21 | 0:22:22 | |
What did you think when this was first tabled, | 0:22:22 | 0:22:25 | |
this idea, look, we're going to put a band on the train? | 0:22:25 | 0:22:28 | |
Well, running railways is a serious business, | 0:22:28 | 0:22:31 | |
so I thought, that's a bit of a funny one. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:33 | |
But I thought, actually, | 0:22:33 | 0:22:35 | |
why not have a bit of fun while you're doing it. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:37 | |
It may be serious, | 0:22:37 | 0:22:38 | |
but the thing about that is it really connects with the community. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:41 | |
It connects with the people, | 0:22:41 | 0:22:43 | |
and that's what they wanted. It's their railway after all. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:45 | |
We just run the bits of metal between it, they own it! | 0:22:45 | 0:22:48 | |
'As well as the ever-changing landscape | 0:22:53 | 0:22:56 | |
'you also get to see some reminders of the area's industrial heritage. | 0:22:56 | 0:23:00 | |
'This Victorian viaduct spans the Dearne Valley at Denby Dale. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:03 | |
'It actually replaced a wooden one | 0:23:03 | 0:23:05 | |
'which wobbled with every train that passed over. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:07 | |
'And a few minutes later | 0:23:07 | 0:23:08 | |
'there is an even bigger and better one on the approach to Penistone. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:12 | |
'Nearly 100 years ago a pillar of Penistone's most famous landmark | 0:23:14 | 0:23:17 | |
'collapsed into the River Don | 0:23:17 | 0:23:19 | |
'taking two arches and a locomotive with it.' | 0:23:19 | 0:23:22 | |
Incredibly no-one was hurt and they managed to recover the train | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
which they carried on using for another 25 years. | 0:23:26 | 0:23:28 | |
How very Yorkshire. | 0:23:28 | 0:23:30 | |
'Today we're safely across the viaduct without incident, | 0:23:32 | 0:23:35 | |
'and while the music train continues onto Sheffield | 0:23:35 | 0:23:37 | |
'I get off at Penistone to explore the area on foot.' | 0:23:37 | 0:23:40 | |
They look like ramblers. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:45 | |
'I've arranged to meet up with Stuart Parker | 0:23:45 | 0:23:47 | |
'to join one of his guided walks which starts on a disused track.' | 0:23:47 | 0:23:51 | |
-Hi, guys. -Hello. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:53 | |
Stuart, I know Stuart, I don't know anyone else. Hello. | 0:23:53 | 0:23:56 | |
-Hi. -Right, let's get going. -Yes, good. | 0:23:56 | 0:24:00 | |
So this is the Trans Pennine Trail. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:02 | |
Yes, this is built on a section of the old track bed | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
of the railway between Sheffield and Manchester. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:07 | |
And it's now just leaving Penistone station here. | 0:24:07 | 0:24:10 | |
Penistone has a reputation of being the coldest station in the country, | 0:24:10 | 0:24:13 | |
and I think we're experiencing some of that today. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:15 | |
-Yes, it's a bit nippy, not that cold. -The wind coming off the moors. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:18 | |
'30 years ago freight trains packed with coal | 0:24:20 | 0:24:22 | |
'would thunder from the South Yorkshire coalfields | 0:24:22 | 0:24:25 | |
'to the power stations in the North West. | 0:24:25 | 0:24:27 | |
'We're heading towards the village of Silkstone Common, | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
'but when you look at the views | 0:24:30 | 0:24:32 | |
it's surprising to think we're less than four miles from Barnsley.' | 0:24:32 | 0:24:35 | |
We've been out in some | 0:24:35 | 0:24:37 | |
lovely countryside on the edge of Barnsley town, | 0:24:37 | 0:24:39 | |
and it has a proud industrial heritage of mining and industry, | 0:24:39 | 0:24:43 | |
and yet you are on the edge of open countryside, | 0:24:43 | 0:24:45 | |
criss-crossed with public footpaths, | 0:24:45 | 0:24:47 | |
an ideal area to explore the villages close on the boundaries. | 0:24:47 | 0:24:51 | |
A fantastic way to do it using the trains as well, | 0:24:51 | 0:24:53 | |
using the train lines. | 0:24:53 | 0:24:54 | |
Exactly, using the train, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:55 | |
hourly train service between Barnsley and Huddersfield, | 0:24:55 | 0:24:58 | |
getting off at stations, | 0:24:58 | 0:24:59 | |
walking the footpaths between stations, | 0:24:59 | 0:25:02 | |
ending at a local hostelry. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:04 | |
Very important that bit! | 0:25:04 | 0:25:06 | |
Jumping on the train back home, ideal. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:08 | |
'Well, we've definitely missed that train, | 0:25:09 | 0:25:11 | |
'so time for a little ale in the pub, | 0:25:11 | 0:25:12 | |
'and what better place to end | 0:25:12 | 0:25:14 | |
'my whistle-stop tour of the Penistone Line | 0:25:14 | 0:25:16 | |
'and the countryside beyond.' | 0:25:16 | 0:25:18 | |
Julia there on an offbeat train ride. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:25 | |
But now we're travelling south for an altogether different journey. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:28 | |
Stretching for almost 100 miles | 0:25:31 | 0:25:33 | |
these dramatic and crumbling cliffs are a wonder of the natural world. | 0:25:33 | 0:25:37 | |
This is the Jurassic Coast, | 0:25:37 | 0:25:38 | |
and Adam went to Dorset to explore beaches that reveal history | 0:25:38 | 0:25:43 | |
millions of years old. | 0:25:43 | 0:25:44 | |
Here at Charmouth the cliffs are being eroded at an incredible rate. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:51 | |
But for some it is seen as the key to conserving this coast. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:55 | |
Because as each layer of rock is exposed | 0:25:55 | 0:25:57 | |
it reveals Earth's ancient history. | 0:25:57 | 0:26:00 | |
'Erosion also opens a treasure chest | 0:26:02 | 0:26:04 | |
'of incredible secrets about our past.' | 0:26:04 | 0:26:08 | |
Fossils, free again from the earth | 0:26:09 | 0:26:11 | |
for the very first time in millions of years. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:14 | |
-Hi, Paddy. -Hi, are you all right? | 0:26:17 | 0:26:19 | |
How are you getting on? I found this someone's left on the beach. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:21 | |
-Chipped it open. -Yes, quite nice. | 0:26:21 | 0:26:23 | |
That's a little ammonite, that's about 190 million years old. | 0:26:23 | 0:26:26 | |
Incredible! | 0:26:26 | 0:26:27 | |
I've been picking up stones, is that any good? | 0:26:27 | 0:26:29 | |
Probably not, there's a lot of calcite crystal in there, | 0:26:29 | 0:26:32 | |
it's not really flat enough. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:33 | |
It's a real art, isn't it? | 0:26:33 | 0:26:34 | |
It takes a bit of practice. I've had lots of practice. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:36 | |
-What other things have you found? -Oh, all sorts of things. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:39 | |
-Plesiosaur skeletons. -What else have you got? | 0:26:39 | 0:26:43 | |
We've got a few pieces. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:44 | |
That's a vertebra from an ichthyosaurus. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:47 | |
A reptile that looks rather like a dolphin. | 0:26:47 | 0:26:50 | |
This is a belemnite, | 0:26:51 | 0:26:52 | |
the remains of the fossil squid or squid-like animal. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:56 | |
It takes quite a trained eye, doesn't it, to spot them? | 0:26:56 | 0:26:59 | |
Anybody would think that was just a rock. | 0:26:59 | 0:27:01 | |
Absolutely, that's right. | 0:27:01 | 0:27:02 | |
Just a little bit of knowledge can be awfully helpful. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:04 | |
-Cos the rocks are just moving all the time. -They are, that's right. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
Very soft rock so easily eroded. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:10 | |
So new things are coming onto the beach constantly. | 0:27:10 | 0:27:14 | |
How long have you been at it? | 0:27:14 | 0:27:15 | |
-39 years. -Have you? | 0:27:15 | 0:27:16 | |
I started when I was six years old, and never really grew up. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:20 | |
-Thank you very much. -You're welcome. -Good luck. -All right, bye. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:24 | |
'As you head east along the Jurassic Coast | 0:27:26 | 0:27:30 | |
'the landscape becomes even more spectacular. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
'Lulworth Cove was formed | 0:27:33 | 0:27:35 | |
'when waves punched their way through hard rocks | 0:27:35 | 0:27:37 | |
'and gouged away the softer sandstone and clay | 0:27:37 | 0:27:39 | |
'creating this perfect horseshoe shape.' | 0:27:39 | 0:27:42 | |
It's one of a number of incredible sights along this coastline, | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
and to get that extra special view I'm heading out there. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:50 | |
-Hi, Terry. -Morning, Adam. -Just hop in then? | 0:27:50 | 0:27:52 | |
Good day for a paddle. Yes. Hop in. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:53 | |
Off we go. | 0:27:53 | 0:27:55 | |
'I'm kayaking off the coast from Lulworth | 0:27:59 | 0:28:01 | |
'to experience its geological wonder up close. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:05 | |
'Terry Sallows is my guide, as well as Paul in the safety kayak.' | 0:28:05 | 0:28:07 | |
We're now heading into Stairhole, a set of two caves. | 0:28:13 | 0:28:18 | |
This is where the sea has eroded | 0:28:18 | 0:28:20 | |
through the actual harder core of the Portland stone. | 0:28:20 | 0:28:24 | |
It's just amazing, isn't it? | 0:28:24 | 0:28:25 | |
The way the sea has broken through there. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:27 | |
Absolutely, yes. | 0:28:27 | 0:28:28 | |
-It's taken millions of years to get to this stage. -Yes. | 0:28:28 | 0:28:32 | |
Just here we can see the Lulworth Crumple, | 0:28:32 | 0:28:34 | |
and this is where the continents have met | 0:28:34 | 0:28:38 | |
and it has pushed the rocks up | 0:28:38 | 0:28:40 | |
which created this formation which is quite unique. | 0:28:40 | 0:28:43 | |
Amazing fold, isn't it? | 0:28:43 | 0:28:44 | |
It's beautiful, beautiful. | 0:28:44 | 0:28:46 | |
This soil just on the inside is a lot softer | 0:28:47 | 0:28:51 | |
than the harder Portland stone which is on the outside. | 0:28:51 | 0:28:54 | |
So the sea has broken through that rock | 0:28:54 | 0:28:56 | |
and now is wearing away the inside. | 0:28:56 | 0:28:59 | |
Yes. | 0:28:59 | 0:29:00 | |
And that really is only accessible via paddle boat like this, isn't it? | 0:29:02 | 0:29:08 | |
Absolutely, yes. | 0:29:08 | 0:29:10 | |
You wouldn't attempt | 0:29:10 | 0:29:11 | |
to go in there with an outboard on the back of the boat, | 0:29:11 | 0:29:14 | |
that's for sure. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:15 | |
A real treat. | 0:29:15 | 0:29:17 | |
'My final destination is Durdle Door, | 0:29:24 | 0:29:27 | |
'one of the most famous landmarks of the Dorset coast.' | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
Certainly gives you a sense of scale. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:35 | |
This is quite an iconic landmark along the British coastline. | 0:29:36 | 0:29:40 | |
Why is it called Durdle Door? | 0:29:40 | 0:29:42 | |
Durdle means piercing or opening, and of course, door. | 0:29:42 | 0:29:46 | |
-So piercing, opening door. -Yes. | 0:29:46 | 0:29:49 | |
It actually looks a little bit like dragon's head, don't you think? | 0:29:49 | 0:29:52 | |
He's drinking out of the water. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:54 | |
Certainly from the other side you can see the head and the neck | 0:29:54 | 0:29:58 | |
and the great long body and tail. | 0:29:58 | 0:30:00 | |
Yes. | 0:30:00 | 0:30:02 | |
Some locals call it durdledaurus! | 0:30:02 | 0:30:04 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:30:04 | 0:30:07 | |
Today I'm journeying through Hampshire. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:13 | |
This bit of the county looks as it would have in William Cobbett's day. | 0:30:13 | 0:30:18 | |
But it was only with the advent of the railways | 0:30:18 | 0:30:20 | |
that the rest of Britain could savour its most fiery export. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:23 | |
One of Hampshire's most famous crops is watercress and I really like it. | 0:30:23 | 0:30:29 | |
The plant's heyday was the Victorian period. | 0:30:33 | 0:30:35 | |
Bought in a bunch it could be consumed on the go | 0:30:35 | 0:30:37 | |
and would even be eaten in sandwiches at breakfast time. | 0:30:37 | 0:30:40 | |
-Hi, James. -Hello. | 0:30:42 | 0:30:43 | |
So why do we love watercress? Why did the Victorians love it too? | 0:30:43 | 0:30:46 | |
Well, I think we've always had a love affair with watercress. | 0:30:46 | 0:30:49 | |
It started off as early as Hippocrates in Ancient Greece, | 0:30:49 | 0:30:53 | |
back in 460 BC. | 0:30:53 | 0:30:55 | |
He knew it was really good for you | 0:30:55 | 0:30:57 | |
and built a hospital right next to it. | 0:30:57 | 0:30:59 | |
The Romans loved it, we've always known it's very healthy. | 0:30:59 | 0:31:02 | |
Nowadays, with nutritional analysis, we can prove how healthy it is. | 0:31:02 | 0:31:05 | |
Why does it seem to do so well down here in Hampshire? | 0:31:05 | 0:31:08 | |
It's all based on the aquifer, it's all about the underground water | 0:31:08 | 0:31:11 | |
that slowly filters through the chalk and picks up the nutrients. | 0:31:11 | 0:31:14 | |
Watercress loves that. | 0:31:14 | 0:31:15 | |
It's based on the quality of the nutrients in the water, | 0:31:15 | 0:31:18 | |
it picks up the calcium. | 0:31:18 | 0:31:20 | |
It's very rich in calcium and in vitamin C as well. | 0:31:20 | 0:31:22 | |
What determines how strong and fiery it is? | 0:31:22 | 0:31:26 | |
Time of year is dependent on the strength of it, | 0:31:26 | 0:31:28 | |
but also the age of the crop. | 0:31:28 | 0:31:30 | |
The older the crop gets, it gets a stronger taste. | 0:31:30 | 0:31:33 | |
Right about now, an over wintered UK crop is about | 0:31:33 | 0:31:36 | |
as strong a tasting as you can get. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:38 | |
-So this is the fiery stuff? -This will blow your head off. | 0:31:38 | 0:31:40 | |
I've got to test it now you've said that! | 0:31:40 | 0:31:42 | |
-Mm. Cor, it's good and fiery, isn't it? -It's peppery. -Hm. | 0:31:44 | 0:31:47 | |
So why is there this link then with the watercress and the railway? | 0:31:47 | 0:31:52 | |
Watercress has always been quite a perishable vegetable, | 0:31:52 | 0:31:55 | |
-so it's always about time to market, it's still the case now. -Yes. | 0:31:55 | 0:31:58 | |
The railways used to pack it into wicker flats | 0:31:58 | 0:32:00 | |
so this is a reconstruction of a flat. | 0:32:00 | 0:32:03 | |
You had half flats and full flats. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:05 | |
A half flat contained about half a hundredweight, | 0:32:05 | 0:32:07 | |
so about 25 kilos of watercress. | 0:32:07 | 0:32:09 | |
So how much of it were they shifting up to London? | 0:32:09 | 0:32:12 | |
It was considerable amounts. | 0:32:12 | 0:32:14 | |
Around about the 1900s, mid 1800s, | 0:32:14 | 0:32:17 | |
there were about 1,000 acres of watercress farms in the UK. | 0:32:17 | 0:32:20 | |
And most of that was going to the main markets, | 0:32:20 | 0:32:22 | |
London, Birmingham, even as far as Liverpool, up to Edinburgh. | 0:32:22 | 0:32:26 | |
Nowadays it's really shrunk | 0:32:26 | 0:32:28 | |
and concentrated to about 150 acres in the UK. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:31 | |
In a moment I'm going to be heading up to the railway | 0:32:38 | 0:32:41 | |
to see for myself how the watercress was sent to London. | 0:32:41 | 0:32:43 | |
First, here's the Countryfile weather forecast for the week ahead. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:47 | |
. | 0:34:50 | 0:34:57 | |
I'm in Hampshire looking back at some of the journeys | 0:35:07 | 0:35:11 | |
we've made on Countryfile. | 0:35:11 | 0:35:13 | |
We've travelled by kayak, by foot and even on horseback. | 0:35:13 | 0:35:17 | |
But we couldn't miss out on steam. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:20 | |
The Mid Hants railway was once a busy branch route | 0:35:20 | 0:35:24 | |
serving nearby villages and agricultural communities. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:26 | |
But it was a locally grown product that gave it its pet name - | 0:35:26 | 0:35:29 | |
the Watercress Line. | 0:35:29 | 0:35:31 | |
As we've heard the heyday of watercress was the Victorian period | 0:35:31 | 0:35:35 | |
and with the development of the railway, | 0:35:35 | 0:35:38 | |
tonnes of it was transported up to the markets in Covent Garden. | 0:35:38 | 0:35:41 | |
So paint a picture, what would have been like here back then? | 0:35:41 | 0:35:45 | |
Apart from the watercress trains that went from over there, | 0:35:45 | 0:35:48 | |
the you'd have had the normal passenger trains, about one an hour. | 0:35:48 | 0:35:51 | |
Then you'd have had some through trains as well, | 0:35:51 | 0:35:54 | |
which would be going from Southampton up to London, | 0:35:54 | 0:35:56 | |
and the normal freight trains. | 0:35:56 | 0:35:58 | |
-Busy then? -Normal hustle and bustle of a countryside market town really. | 0:35:58 | 0:36:02 | |
Why didn't it carry on? | 0:36:02 | 0:36:04 | |
It was the general decline of the railways | 0:36:04 | 0:36:06 | |
and the move to road transport. | 0:36:06 | 0:36:07 | |
In the '50s and '60s everyone moved to the road | 0:36:07 | 0:36:10 | |
and once they loaded the watercress and freight onto the lorries | 0:36:10 | 0:36:13 | |
at the farms, they might as well drive it to market on the lorries. | 0:36:13 | 0:36:16 | |
The railway finally closed in the early 1970s, | 0:36:17 | 0:36:20 | |
and quickly fell into disrepair. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:22 | |
But where's there's a steam railway, there's an enthusiast. | 0:36:23 | 0:36:25 | |
And after years of painful restoration it's now running | 0:36:25 | 0:36:28 | |
again as a heritage railway. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:31 | |
The line runs for ten miles from Arlesford to Alton. | 0:36:37 | 0:36:42 | |
Well, that was pretty noisy and smelly. | 0:36:42 | 0:36:46 | |
I just saw the signalman give something to the driver, | 0:36:46 | 0:36:48 | |
I'm going to find out what it was. | 0:36:48 | 0:36:51 | |
Knock-knock. | 0:36:51 | 0:36:52 | |
-Hello, may I come in? -Yes, hello. -I'm Ellie. -Pleased to meet you. | 0:36:52 | 0:36:55 | |
I'm being nosey, I wanted to find out what you were doing | 0:36:55 | 0:36:58 | |
giving something to the driver down there. | 0:36:58 | 0:37:00 | |
Well, the driver has to have an authority | 0:37:00 | 0:37:02 | |
to go on to the single line. | 0:37:02 | 0:37:03 | |
These key tokens are issued by this machine and the machine | 0:37:03 | 0:37:07 | |
guarantees that only one token can be out at any one time. | 0:37:07 | 0:37:10 | |
You're like the air traffic controller, | 0:37:10 | 0:37:12 | |
-telling him it's safe to go. -In a rather minor way, yes. | 0:37:12 | 0:37:14 | |
It's all pretty important, their safety! | 0:37:14 | 0:37:16 | |
-That's an amazing invention, is that old? -Yes, early 1900s. | 0:37:16 | 0:37:19 | |
Isn't that clever? | 0:37:19 | 0:37:21 | |
Mr Tyer, an electric key token machine. | 0:37:21 | 0:37:24 | |
-And you can't get that out? -You can try, you can try and get that out. | 0:37:24 | 0:37:27 | |
-If you lift it up. -Yes, I'm trying. | 0:37:27 | 0:37:29 | |
Put it up in there and you try and turn that out now. | 0:37:29 | 0:37:33 | |
No, there is no way I'm getting that out. Isn't that brilliant?! | 0:37:33 | 0:37:36 | |
The only way you can get that out is with | 0:37:36 | 0:37:38 | |
the cooperation of the signaller at the other end | 0:37:38 | 0:37:40 | |
when he holds his plunger in. | 0:37:40 | 0:37:42 | |
-Fantastic. -And then we can get one out and one only. -Incredible. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:44 | |
So you're safe on the Watercress Line. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:46 | |
-You're safe on the Watercress Line. -Good to know. | 0:37:46 | 0:37:48 | |
-Thanks for letting me come in. -Pleasure. -What an amazing place. | 0:37:48 | 0:37:51 | |
-Brilliant. I'll leave you to it. -You're welcome. -Cheers. -Bye-bye. | 0:37:51 | 0:37:54 | |
Historically, moving agricultural produce from A to B | 0:37:54 | 0:37:58 | |
involved a lot more work than it does today. | 0:37:58 | 0:38:00 | |
But it wasn't just the train taking the strain | 0:38:00 | 0:38:02 | |
as Matt discovered when he moved sheep to new pastures, | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
it wasn't a walk in the park either. | 0:38:05 | 0:38:07 | |
Today the Lincolnshire Wolds are a patchwork of arable fields. | 0:38:08 | 0:38:13 | |
But a few centuries ago it was livestock, | 0:38:13 | 0:38:15 | |
and in particular sheep, that dominated the landscape. | 0:38:15 | 0:38:19 | |
Like the Cotswolds, | 0:38:19 | 0:38:20 | |
the Lincolnshire Wolds grew rich off the back of the boom in wool trade. | 0:38:20 | 0:38:24 | |
In an age when there was no motorised transport | 0:38:28 | 0:38:31 | |
the only way to move animals to market was to walk them there | 0:38:31 | 0:38:34 | |
sometimes hundreds of miles. | 0:38:34 | 0:38:36 | |
For centuries, farmers relied on a network of alleyways | 0:38:36 | 0:38:40 | |
laid out between fields known as droving roads. | 0:38:40 | 0:38:44 | |
Many of them still exist today, | 0:38:44 | 0:38:46 | |
transporting cars not sheep. | 0:38:46 | 0:38:48 | |
But to find out what it was like for drovers herding their animals | 0:38:48 | 0:38:51 | |
I'm going to retrace one of their traditional routes | 0:38:51 | 0:38:54 | |
here in the Wolds. | 0:38:54 | 0:38:56 | |
The plan is to walk this flock of rare breed Lincoln Longwools | 0:38:56 | 0:38:59 | |
to fresh pasture about three miles from here. | 0:38:59 | 0:39:02 | |
Now I have moved loads of sheep around our farm in Durham, but... | 0:39:02 | 0:39:07 | |
to drove this lot down unfamiliar roads is going to be interesting. | 0:39:07 | 0:39:11 | |
I have enlisted the help of their owner Mike Harrison. | 0:39:11 | 0:39:14 | |
So plan of action, are we going to get them straight into that corner? | 0:39:14 | 0:39:18 | |
-That's the way. -Round we go then. Come on, girls. | 0:39:18 | 0:39:21 | |
'Mike regularly hires his sheep out | 0:39:21 | 0:39:23 | |
'to nearby farmers to help graze their land. | 0:39:23 | 0:39:26 | |
'Normally he'd move them the whole way by trailer | 0:39:26 | 0:39:29 | |
'but today he's going to help us turn the clock back.' | 0:39:29 | 0:39:32 | |
-They are off at speed a little bit. -MIKE WHISTLES | 0:39:32 | 0:39:35 | |
Great. We better catch up with them | 0:39:35 | 0:39:37 | |
because wherever we're going it's not going to take us long! | 0:39:37 | 0:39:39 | |
'So we're off to a flying start.' | 0:39:39 | 0:39:41 | |
I don't think the traditional drovers were joggers. | 0:39:41 | 0:39:45 | |
This is interesting cos we have got a car coming in front of us here. | 0:39:48 | 0:39:52 | |
-Right. Yes. -There we are, perfect. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:54 | |
Ooh, hang on, don't go in front of the car. | 0:39:54 | 0:39:56 | |
Great, there's a car coming in behind us(!) | 0:39:56 | 0:39:59 | |
It's like the M25! | 0:39:59 | 0:40:00 | |
-Thank you! -Good job you come along you know. -I tell you what, Mike... | 0:40:02 | 0:40:07 | |
'We're approaching the halfway point, | 0:40:10 | 0:40:12 | |
the perfect time to stop and take a breather. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
They're quite keen to get their heads down now, do a bit of grazing. | 0:40:15 | 0:40:19 | |
Traditionally, a lot of Wolds farms had grazing down on the out marsh, | 0:40:19 | 0:40:22 | |
down near the coast. | 0:40:22 | 0:40:25 | |
And this would be a very traditional sight as these animals | 0:40:25 | 0:40:29 | |
made their way to their summer grazing | 0:40:29 | 0:40:30 | |
and back again in the autumn. | 0:40:30 | 0:40:32 | |
'Drovers would have walked sheep across the countryside | 0:40:32 | 0:40:36 | |
'like this for hundreds of years. | 0:40:36 | 0:40:37 | |
'In other parts of the country all kinds of livestock, from horses, | 0:40:37 | 0:40:41 | |
'geese, turkeys and cows, would have all been moved in this way.' | 0:40:41 | 0:40:46 | |
Come on then, girls, let's keep going. It's lovely this. | 0:40:46 | 0:40:50 | |
-It's a lovely walk if nothing else. -Gorgeous. | 0:40:50 | 0:40:54 | |
Best kept secret, this part of the world. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:57 | |
Journey's end is in sight, just a few more yards to go. | 0:40:57 | 0:41:00 | |
That's it, girls. | 0:41:02 | 0:41:05 | |
Straight through the gateway. | 0:41:05 | 0:41:09 | |
There we are. | 0:41:09 | 0:41:10 | |
Oh, right at the last minute we nearly lost one! Super. | 0:41:10 | 0:41:15 | |
-Pastures new. -We did it, team, we did it. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:19 | |
Absolutely terrific. | 0:41:19 | 0:41:21 | |
Our droving is complete, in front of an audience as well. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:24 | |
What a lovely way to finish. Very nice. | 0:41:24 | 0:41:26 | |
-Look at that, they look happy, don't they? -Mm. | 0:41:26 | 0:41:28 | |
They do. | 0:41:28 | 0:41:30 | |
'And for the Lincoln Longwools, time for a well-earned rest.' | 0:41:30 | 0:41:34 | |
And with that, we're at our journey's end. | 0:41:39 | 0:41:41 | |
That's it for this special edition of Countryfile. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:49 | |
Next week, we'll be on the Suffolk coast with Matt. | 0:41:49 | 0:41:52 | |
See you then, bye-bye! | 0:41:52 | 0:41:53 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:42:17 | 0:42:20 |