Rhaglen 6 Tir Cymru

-888

-888

-

-888

-888

-888

-A back garden in Aberdare.

-It has been designed

-to attract wildlife.

-There's enough food here

-to sustain several families.

-There's thick vegetation

-in which to hide from danger.

-It's a haven for any creature

-that likes bushes and a food supply.

-A vixen, heavy with milk.

-She must have a family somewhere.

-This is a healthy animal,

-in good condition.

-She only has one cub,

-which is about six weeks old.

-It is also a picture of health.

-This small garden

-is an ideal habitat.

-You could argue

-that the whole of Wales is a garden.

-The framework of the terrain

-was formed by natural forces...

-..but the landscape we see today

-has been shaped by humans.

-The rich habitats created by man...

-..affects the type of wildlife

-that lives in Wales.

-The Landscape

-There isn't a more dramatic view

-anywhere in the world.

-This is known as the roof of Wales.

-I'm on the slopes of Pumlumon,

-looking north.

-When I stand here,

-I get the feeling...

-..that I'm looking across

-the whole country.

-There are indelible traces

-of Ice Age glaciers.

-There's a huge hole here

-that was created by ice.

-There are also traces

-of human activity.

-Those fields and hedgerows

-weren't there a century ago.

-There are traces

-of recent human activity too.

-The wind farm over there

-dates from the last decade.

-Humans are still altering

-the landscape today.

-This is the new face of the uplands.

-You can argue about their impact

-on the energy crisis...

-..on the environment

-and on the landscape itself.

-The fact remains, we're changing

-the character of the landscape.

-People have done this

-for thousands of years.

-Our ancestors changed the uplands

-from wild woodland to open pasture.

-Today, we build on the hills.

-Over thousands of years,

-we have cultivated the terrain.

-We have excavated the terrain...

-..and we have built on the terrain.

-Even in the most remote

-parts of Wales...

-..the views are far from natural.

-Despite the dramatic changes

-made to the landscape...

-..we consider some areas

-to be relatively wild habitats.

-Upland Wales

-at Nant Ffrancon in Snowdonia.

-Tryfan is the backdrop

-for the Ogwen Falls.

-The waterfall was created

-by the erosive power of glaciers...

-..as they flowed down the valley.

-This is the closest thing

-to wild terrain in Wales.

-In the distant past, there were more

-trees and vegetation on these hills.

-Man created these pastures.

-Wildlife has adapted to a habitat...

-..that's partly wild

-and partly created by man.

-The raven lives on the uplands...

-..because there are rocks there

-on which it can nest.

-This is its natural habitat.

-There is some carrion here too.

-The wheatear is a summer visitor.

-This is the male.

-This is the female.

-They visit the Welsh uplands to nest

-under stones on the bare land.

-Eglwyseg Rocks, near Llangollen.

-This escarpment was formed

-in a tropical sea...

-..some 360 million years ago.

-Jackdaws nest on the cliffs.

-This is their natural home.

-They're social birds

-and nest in communities.

-Here, they nest in holes

-in the rocks.

-Jackdaws are far smaller than ravens.

-Lower down the valley,

-they can find food in gardens.

-The Brecon Beacons.

-The highest uplands in south Wales.

-These mountains

-are older than Eglwyseg Rocks.

-They're made of sandstone

-deposited here by huge rivers...

-..which flowed over Wales

-around 400 million years ago.

-This is Pen y Fan, the highest peak,

-in the grip of winter.

-It's a far less welcoming location

-following heavy snowfall.

-Craig Cerrig-gleisiad

-is opposite Pen y Fan.

-It's a huge hollow

-that was created by a glacier.

-Behind me, those steep rocks

-stretch right up to the clouds.

-This is among the coldest places

-in the whole of Wales.

-Despite the hostile conditions,

-a very rare plant grows there.

-Even on a bitterly cold day,

-with a thick blanket of snow...

-..this special little plant

-is preparing to flower.

-As the snow melts, the hollow shape

-of the valley becomes clearer.

-At the end of March,

-the rare plant flowers.

-Purple saxifrage.

-This frail-looking

-Arctic Alpine flower...

-..can live in a cold, tough habitat.

-It has been here since the Ice Age.

-It flowers

-as soon as the ice and snow melts...

-..during the short Arctic summer.

-It grows in one

-of the Beacons' coldest valleys...

-..but is part of a far colder period

-in the history of Wales.

-.

-888

-888

-

-888

-Llyn Cowlyd, near Capel Curig.

-It's the deepest lake in Wales,

-up to 70 metres deep in places.

-So much ice formed at the head of the

-Ogwen Valley during the Ice Age...

-..that an enormous glacier overflowed

-through a gap in a mountain ridge...

-..creating a deep new valley.

-When the glacier retreated,

-the valley flooded...

-..and a lake was formed.

-The Welsh uplands

-are full of lakes and streams.

-This is source of the River Wye

-on Pumlumon.

-It's a mere stream at this point.

-As it cascades down

-the upland slopes...

-..it gathers water as it flows

-towards Llangurig.

-When it reaches the lowlands,

-it has become a wide river.

-It looks at its best in summer.

-This section,

-between Llanelwedd and Brecon...

-..is very rich in wildlife.

-Thanks to our wet climate, we have

-some magnificent rivers in Wales.

-This is the River Tywi near Dryslwyn.

-This is the River Aber Garth Celyn

-near Abergwyngregyn, Gwynedd.

-Our rivers are teeming with life.

-The grey wagtail

-nests near rivers.

-Its yellow chest may be prominent,

-but it's named for its grey back.

-Its relative, the yellow wagtail,

-is yellow all over.

-This is the male.

-It has a black throat.

-It's the wagtail with the longest

-tail and the shortest legs.

-You'll see the dipper

-on every river.

-It needs clear water

-in order to see insect larvae...

-..that live among the stones.

-When the river is swollen

-and the water is brown...

-..the dipper looks for insects

-in smaller streams on higher ground.

-When water levels are high

-during December...

-..salmon make their way up

-Welsh rivers to reproduce.

-These are leaping

-in the River Cletwr in mid Wales.

-Pistyll Rhaeadr,

-near Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant.

-This is the highest waterfall

-in Wales.

-It formed because

-there's hard rock at the top...

-..and soft rock at the bottom.

-It's in full flow in midwinter.

-Wow!

-You have to get close

-to the waterfall...

-..before you can appreciate

-the power of the water.

-The noise is deafening!

-Justifiably, it's one of Britain's

-most famous natural wonders.

-From top to bottom, it's 240 feet...

-..which makes it higher

-than the Niagara Falls.

-The waterfall creates dew,

-which encourages moss to grow.

-The moss thrives because the air

-is moist all year round.

-As you can see, it covers everything.

-The moss is at its best in winter.

-There are no leaves on the trees...

-..so plenty of light

-reaches the ground.

-It's like a thick green carpet.

-All life needs water.

-Where water is plentiful, trees grow.

-This is Wales's natural wild terrain.

-Deciduous woodland.

-Over 5,000 years ago, the whole

-of Wales was covered in trees...

-..most of which were oak trees.

-Today, agricultural land

-surrounds the ancient woodlands.

-Coed Crafnant in Ardudwy...

-..one of north Wales's

-ancient woodlands.

-Ty Canol Woods in Pembrokeshire...

-..one of south Wales's

-ancient woodlands.

-Trees have grown in these places

-for thousands of years.

-This is Pengelli Forest

-in Pembrokeshire.

-There have been trees here since

-medieval times, if not earlier.

-That doesn't necessarily mean

-the trees themselves are ancient.

-You expect to get here

-and see massive oak trees...

-..with thick trunks

-stretching high into the sky.

-That isn't the case every time.

-If you have infertile, stony ground,

-the trees will be much smaller.

-This woodland has been carefully

-managed by man for centuries.

-Man used wood to build ships,

-houses and so on.

-As a result of those two factors...

-..the trees we see today

-are relatively thin and straight.

-Whatever the size of the trees,

-they all attract birds.

-The chaffinch is with us

-all year round.

-The redstart comes here from Africa

-to nest every spring.

-Birds nest either inside trees

-or on trees.

-The marsh tit

-has a very distinctive black cap.

-This one has built its nest

-inside a cleft in the tree.

-It's carrying a caterpillar

-for its chicks.

-Deciduous woodlands are important

-habitats for a variety of wildlife.

-Old and new forests border each other

-in the Dolgellau area.

-The ancient deciduous woodland

-of Ganllwyd...

-..is on this side

-of the Mawddach Valley.

-On the other side

-is Coed y Brenin forest.

-Like most of Wales's

-coniferous forests...

-..these evergreen trees were planted

-during the last 200 years.

-Most were planted to overcome

-the timber shortage after WW1.

-Prior to that,

-these trees didn't grow in Wales.

-Evergreens are now the most common

-trees on the Welsh landscape.

-They offer a rich habitat

-to a variety of species.

-This is a goshawk chick.

-Goshawks have made their home

-in our new forests.

-Over thousands of years, man cleared

-the terrain of natural woodlands.

-That created a timber shortage.

-We tried to solve the problem...

-..by planting foreign trees

-on the terrain.

-Most of those are planted

-on the uplands...

-..because the land is too poor

-to be used for agriculture.

-We're familiar with these views.

-We consider them to be

-the wild lands of Wales.

-But this is a new landscape,

-created by man.

-.

-888

-888

-

-888

-The lowlands of Wales.

-Most of it was

-turned into agricultural land...

-..during the past 7,000 years.

-Over several generations...

-..the terrain has been

-divided and cultivated.

-This field has been assigned to hay.

-The land is perfect for swallows.

-These catch insects

-disturbed by the tractor.

-Farm outbuildings are perfect

-for rearing a family.

-Fertile land,

-like this area near Abergavenny...

-..is earmarked for crops.

-Farmland attracts its own wildlife.

-Wildlife that takes advantage

-of treated land...

-..and wildlife that lives in wild

-areas between cultivated land.

-One of the most important lowland

-areas for wildlife are hedgerows.

-In spring,

-they're good places to nest...

-..and in which to hide.

-In autumn, they're important places

-for food and shelter.

-In winter, they attract birds

-from the Continent.

-The most striking bird you'll see

-during that period is the waxwing.

-Parts of the lowlands

-are too wet to be cultivated.

-These wetlands are relatively

-wild areas of the terrain.

-Ponds and marshes

-attract specialist wildlife.

-The reed warbler visits Wales

-every summer to nest.

-One of the largest marshes in Wales

-is near Malltraeth on Anglesey.

-This land was reclaimed

-from the Afon Cefni estuary...

-..early in the 19th century.

-Afon Cefni was canalized...

-..and Malltraeth Cob was built

-on the western side of the island.

-The land was then used

-for agriculture.

-Coal was mined here for a while.

-Some of the works buildings

-still stand.

-Malltraeth Marsh on Anglesey

-has a fascinating history.

-It's a story of the battle

-between man and nature.

-Centuries ago, this was an estuary.

-It stretched all the way

-towards Llangefni over there.

-Gradually, man reclaimed the land.

-Man straightened the river

-and built enormous ditches...

-..to extract water from the land.

-Agricultural land

-has gradually been formed.

-During the past decade...

-..conservationists have started

-to return this land to nature.

-There's a mix of elements here today.

-There are hedgerows, ditches,

-reeds and small ponds.

-This variety of habitats makes it

-a wonderful place for wildlife.

-A variety of waterfowl

-lives on the marsh.

-These are coots.

-There are also greylag geese here.

-These are little grebes.

-There are several species

-of duck here.

-These are shovelers.

-Llyn Clywedog, near Llanidloes.

-It's one of Wales's

-largest reservoirs.

-It was constructed during the 1960s.

-There are several reservoirs

-in Wales.

-The terrain is perfect for them.

-During the Ice Age,

-huge glaciers expanded...

-..deepening valleys and creating

-perfect locations for lakes.

-The uplands are full of them.

-This reservoir

-is in the Elan Valley in Powys.

-Reservoirs are a relatively

-new terrain in Wales.

-They attract waterfowl,

-especially in autumn and winter.

-These are teal.

-They're the smallest ducks in Wales.

-Pontsticill Reservoir, near Merthyr.

-The history of this reservoir...

-..reminds us that the landscape

-under the water is very much alive.

-At the far end of the lake

-is the small Pentwyn Reservoir.

-This was the original reservoir.

-Unfortunately, the dam was located

-on one of Wales's geological faults.

-The limestone rocks

-around the reservoir...

-..dissolve gradually in water.

-Because of these two factors,

-the small reservoir leaks.

-There was no choice but to build

-a new dam on firmer ground...

-..and create a far larger reservoir.

-Wildlife has lived alongside us,

-in our buildings, since early times.

-This is Raglan Castle in Gwent.

-Jackdaws naturally nest

-in holes in rocks...

-..but a chimney will do nicely.

-If anything, it's far better.

-Pigeons originally nested

-on coastal rocks.

-A building is also a good place

-to raise a family.

-These starlings are mainly here...

-..because there's plenty of food

-on the surrounding land.

-The castle is also a good place

-to roost and to nest.

-In rural Wales...

-..wildlife often chooses to live

-with us rather than on the land.

-This is a smallholding

-in Cwm Penanner, near Bala.

-The walls and buildings

-shelter wildlife and humans alike.

-Like every house in the valley,

-this is an old stone house.

-There are holes everywhere

-in this wall.

-I can see a variety of mosses,

-which live on the lime.

-There's plenty of water for them,

-of course.

-Birds feed on the insects

-that live in these holes.

-There's a shed and a coal shed here.

-There's a large hole

-under the eaves.

-Anything going in there

-knows it will be warm and cosy...

-..whatever the weather.

-This is a treecreeper.

-It's usually a tree bird,

-but this one lives in this garden.

-In its natural habitat,

-it uses its downcurved bill...

-..to find insects beneath tree bark.

-This one searches for food

-on the stones.

-Its sturdy tail helps it climb

-up and down the wall.

-This is a stoat in ermine.

-Its normal orange-brown fur

-has turned white for winter.

-It lives under the shed roof...

-..and hunts on the land

-around the smallholding.

-Rabbits are its favourite prey.

-It usually catches live animals...

-..but is willing to eat

-dead animals in winter.

-But not this time!

-It's a very fast animal.

-Not every stoat is in ermine

-over winter.

-Its partner has kept its normal fur.

-Stoats are quite common creatures

-in several Welsh habitats.

-This one and his friend

-decided to live on the smallholding.

-The terrain is full of buildings.

-We've established villages

-in every part of Wales.

-Many of them are close to rivers.

-This is Llangollen on the River Dee.

-Carmarthen lies on the River Tywi.

-From the air, it's hard to believe

-that wildlife could live in towns.

-It's a habitat that suits animals

-just as well as humans.

-It's even true of our capital city.

-This is a part

-of the old Cardiff docks.

-The canals have been cleaned.

-Homes and offices have been built

-where dock buildings once stood.

-It's no great surprise to see swans

-on water in a city centre.

-The same is true of ducks.

-This is a very common sight.

-It's no surprise either...

-..to find birds living in vegetation

-around the buildings.

-However, there's a wealth

-of wildlife here.

-This is the largest dragonfly

-in Wales.

-The emperor.

-It lives in the heart of the city.

-This is a female.

-It's laying eggs in the canal.

-It dips its tail

-beneath the surface of the water...

-..and lets the eggs fall

-to the bottom of the canal.

-They will hatch and the nymphs

-will live and grow in the canal...

-..until they mature and become

-dragonflies themselves.

-A damselfly has also

-made its home here.

-As a result of us altering

-the terrain so dramatically...

-..wildlife was forced to adjust

-to living in artificial habitats.

-If a location offers food, water

-and shelter, it will suffice.

-Sometimes, it's far better

-than a wild habitat.

-.

-888

-888

-

-888

-The Mawddach Estuary,

-traversed by Barmouth Bridge.

-It's a wide, level expanse.

-At the end of the Ice Age,

-the Mawddach Valley was deep...

-..akin to the fjords of Norway

-and New Zealand.

-During the past 7,000 years,

-as its level rose...

-..the sea drowned the valley,

-filling it with sand and mud.

-The valley floor has been raised

-and levelled by the sea.

-The same thing happened

-at Lavan Sands, near Bangor.

-For around 4,000 years

-after the glacier melted...

-..at the end of the Ice Age...

-..there was no sea and no estuary

-between the mainland and Anglesey.

-Today, it has been filled

-with sediment.

-I love estuaries.

-The wide expanse of flat land

-sometimes stretches for miles.

-In places like this, the sky

-seems huge as it looks down on you.

-It's said that this mud is among

-the world's richest habitats.

-There are more creatures per square

-metre here than anywhere else.

-That's why hundreds of thousands

-of birds come here every winter.

-Waterfowl aren't the only residents

-of Welsh estuaries.

-The estuary of the River Nevern,

-near Newport, Pembrokeshire.

-Kingfishers are often seen

-fishing near estuaries.

-There are plenty of small fish

-for them in the pools.

-The pied wagtail has come here

-to wash itself in the sea.

-This is a bird which has settled

-in Wales during the past 20 years.

-Today, little egrets are common

-on every Welsh estuary.

-Another creature whose numbers

-have grown is the otter.

-They are often seen fishing

-near riverbanks...

-..where the flow of water is slower.

-Some otters

-are specialist estuary hunters.

-They're fond of fishing

-near old trees...

-..because vegetation

-creates shelters for fish.

-The Lleyn Peninsula coast,

-near Llanbedrog.

-The Welsh coast stretches over

-1,600 miles from north to south.

-This part faces Cardigan Bay,

-in the New Quay area.

-The agricultural land ends abruptly

-where the sea has eroded the rocks.

-This is the coast of Skomer Island,

-Pembrokeshire.

-Hard rocks that can withstand

-the effect of the waves.

-The Welsh coast

-is a mixture of sand dunes...

-..long beaches and dramatic rocks.

-It's a glorious terrain.

-The south Glamorgan coast

-is among the very best.

-This section is between

-Ogmore-by-Sea and St Donat's.

-The cliffs are relatively young.

-They were formed

-180 million years ago...

-..when this area of Wales

-lay beneath the sea.

-These are the cliffs at Nash Point.

-There are thick layers of limestone

-and layers of soft mudstone here.

-As the weather and the elements

-work the stone...

-..the soft layers erode quickly.

-The hard limestone eventually falls.

-The shelves created

-through this process...

-..make perfect nesting sites

-for birds.

-The fulmar, to name but one.

-The kestrel, to name another.

-Rock pipits are a common sight

-along the coast.

-This one is searching for insects

-on the rocks.

-A little to the west of Nash Point

-is the Ogmore coast.

-These are also limestone cliffs...

-..but they're far older, having been

-formed 350 million years ago.

-That's another period when this part

-of Wales was under the sea.

-The geological history of Wales

-can be seen clearly in these cliffs.

-When I come to places like this...

-..I often wish I'd listened more

-during geology lessons at school.

-Rocks are fascinating.

-If you want to learn about

-the history of Wales...

-..the history of the landscape

-and its different shapes...

-..you must learn to read the rock.

-It's like a book.

-With a book, you turn a page

-but here, you turn a layer.

-The sea has eroded one layer

-and revealed another layer.

-This layer is made of limestone.

-It was formed by marine creatures.

-There are still animals here,

-in the form of fossils.

-Can you see this shape?

-That's coral.

-There are seashells here and there.

-They've been here

-for hundreds of millions of years.

-The fossils tell us that this area

-was under the sea...

-..some 350 million years ago.

-By reading the rocks...

-..we can also deduce that Wales

-was then closer to the equator.

-Stanner Rocks in Radnorshire...

-..prove that Wales lay under the sea

-700 million years ago.

-At that time, we were close

-to where South Africa now lies.

-When we study

-the rocks of Snowdonia...

-..we can see Wales experienced

-tempestuous volcanic periods.

-The terrain was thrust upwards

-by strong continental forces.

-In other parts of Wales...

-..we know the sea levelled

-and shaped the landscape...

-..several times during its history.

-Relatively recently, the landscape

-was shaped by Ice Age glaciers.

-The ice melted,

-around 11,000 years ago.

-Rich marine life has since developed

-in the sea around Wales.

-Water has created amazing landscapes

-below ground in Wales.

-The land of Wales

-has a long history.

-It is far older than human history.

-On the surface, it seems humans

-had a huge impact on the landscape.

-That's true, to a great extent.

-But we're merely gardening

-in the great garden.

-The powers of nature have a far more

-lasting effect on the landscape.

-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

-.