Episode 4 Getaways

Welcome to Getaways, where we go where you want us to.

We're in Morocco, Northwest Africa,

and we'll explore the destinations of Agadir and Marrakech.

On our website, we asked you for your recommendations

of what to do here and what to avoid.

We've taken them and we'll rate and review them

for ourselves and for you at home.

You can fly to Agadir directly from Dublin,

the flight takes around four hours.

We're taking a two-centre break - as well as Agadir -

we'll also be travelling to Marrakech

which is a two-and-a-half hour drive away.

So, what are you looking forward to on this trip to Morocco?

I'm looking forward to winter sun

-and something a bit different.

-Me too.

See, I've been here before, but only to Agadir,

I've never been to Marrakech, what I'm looking forward to

is more of an authentic experience, which I've heard

is not very difficult to find.

We've taken on board the advice you've sent in to us

via our website and come up with our top five things to do

in this part of Morocco and we've thrown in alternative things to do.

And kicking off at Number Five,

we've chosen the family-friendly beach in Agadir.

Your holiday in Morocco will probably start here,

you just fly in and flop down by the pool.

They say they get 300 days of sunshine here a year

and it's perfect for a winter break.

We're here in October and it's 30 degrees.

Blimey!

The main reason why you come here, of course, is for the beach.

Most of the hotels in Agadir face onto ten kilometres

of fine, family seaside fun and it's not very busy

because most of the tourists here prefer to spend their time

at the hotel at their heated swimming pools.

The wimps!

The beach is overlooked by a hill with the Moroccan national symbol,

which translates as "God, Nation and King".

Some of the hotels own pockets of private beach

but generally the beach is free and open to everyone.

Agadir is a really family-friendly resort

and if you can drag the kids away from the beach

there's a bird park right in the middle of the town.

It's not the most scenic resort in the world,

to be honest with you, it was completely devastated

by an earthquake in 1960 and the rebuild is pretty much ongoing.

It's basically a whole strip of package holiday hotels

and you could be anywhere in Europe,

rather than Africa, by the look of it.

Along the front, you'll find a range of cafes and restaurants

including some old favourites. So if you're looking for fast food

you're in the right place, but there's also a swanky new marina

where you'll find shops, cafes, and boat trips.

But in Agadir you're likely to spend most of your time

around the hotel pool and there are many package holiday hotels here

at a wide range of prices. If you're after a pampering break,

one of the newest luxury hotels to open here

is the Sofitel Agadir Thalassa Sea and Spa Hotel.

A room here costs from 110 euro per person per night

on a bed and breakfast basis.

Agadir does have a great beach and it is perfect

if all you want is a package holiday,

but if you want the more authentic experience, our advice is

hit the road and discover more of what Morocco has to offer.

We're on a two-centre break and our next stop is Marrakech -

a two-and-a-half hour drive from Agadir.

After the beach resort, Marrakech is a completely different world.

It's famous for its markets or souks,

its stunning riads or courtyard hotels,

one of the world's most famous gardens

and for an amazing city centre square

with the most incredible street theatre.

And our Number Four choice from your Moroccan recommendations

is the Marrakech souk, an amazing labyrinth of street stalls.

The souk is found in the medina or old town area of Marrakech.

The souk is a massive marketplace at the heart of the city

with traders hellbent on persuading you to buy their wares.

It's expected that you haggle here,

so the trick is start from a third of the cost

and work up to halfway, but never, ever pay the first price.

It's easy to get lost in the souk

but it's worth it for the experience.

You'll find trade districts such as the blacksmiths' quarter,

where you can watch craftsmen hard at work

making intricately wrought metalwork.

This is where both locals and tourists shop

and here you can pick up everything from fresh fruit

to ceramics and spices.

It's an Islamic country and the dress code in Marrakech

is slightly more conservative than Agadir

but overall, it's pretty liberal.

You will get constant hassle from the stallholders

to come and buy their products, but it's friendly enough.

Sweet!

It's a shopper's dream,

you can buy Moroccan teaglasses, hammered metal trays, lanterns,

sweets, souvenirs, hmm,

-and slippers.

-Here, Joe, I think you should get a pair of these.

I would look quite the bandy in a pair of those.

These are like... Look at those.

-What about this? You likes?

-Yes, it looks lovely.

-I think it's very stylish.

-I think it's in your size.

-Yeah.

The streets can be really busy and actually quite noisy,

which is really enjoyable, but there are a few gems of places

where you can go and find some peace and quiet.

The Photography Museum has a collection

of original photographs of Morocco, from the 1870s

right up until the 1950s.

The museum is open every day from 9:30am until 7pm.

and there's free entry for children.

The entrance fee includes a guided tour

and an introduction to the exhibition.

Why should a tourist come to the Photography Museum?

Tourists should come

because it's probably the only place

where you dream, you go out and in with a smile...

And it's really giving us a glimpse of Moroccan history, isn't it?

Morocco was a multicultural country -

and it is. So you've a lot about Moroccan Jewish people,

you have a lot about the Berbers...

The Berbers are the indigenous people of Morocco.

They were nomads who lived in the mountain ranges

before co-existing with Jews and Christians.

There's also a cafe on top of the museum

with a view over the rooftops of Marrakech.

I really enjoyed that museum, it's actually lovely

to see all the different images of Morocco

and now back to the busy streets.

And in Marrakech you'll find a very distinctive accommodation option.

Now, you might not think it, but behind these old crumbling walls

is actually something rather special.

This is a riad. A home that's been converted into a guesthouse

and there are hundreds of them all around Marrakech.

A pretty stylish place to stay, I think.

Riads really are an oasis from the city

and often only have five or six rooms,

so you have the chance to try something

other than the big chain hotels.

As well as open courtyards, riads also typically have roof terraces,

where you can sit and catch some rays.

A room in this riad costs from 99 euro per person

in low season, which is from June until August -

the hottest time of the year.

I met up with someone from back home who lives in Marrakech

and I wanted to find out more about living in Morocco.

So, what brought you to Marrakech in the first place?

Apart from the climate,

I'd have to say it's the people,

it's a really hip city, a really diverse city,

there's a lot going on, but the people are very warm

and very like Irish, in fact. So, for me,

I felt pretty at home here pretty quickly.

What would be the three things you'd recommend people

absolutely have to do if they come to Marrakech?

Visit the Djemaa el-Fna, which is the main square at night,

soak up the atmosphere, see the sheep's brains

for sale in the street foods,

see the henna tattooists, the snake charmers, visit the souk,

see the old artisans and try and have a traditional Moroccan hammam,

a very good scrub.

I took Rosena's advice

and a lot of you also recommended we try a visit to the hammam.

It's time for our Number Three choice

from your website suggestions.

It's a place where Moroccans traditionally go

for a wash and a good old relax and scrub.

If you're thinking of doing a hammam,

you really should do it, because it completely exfoliates your skin...

and you get a much deeper tan after it, apparently.

They use some sort of eucalyptus thing,

you just feel it clearing out your sinuses and chest.

It feels brilliant.

Getting a good old sandpapering. Can't beat it!

Stop when you get to the grain, mate!

Y'know, when your ma used to give you a good scrubbing,

when you were a kid because you were totally boggin'?

It's kind of like that, but more relaxing.

Cheers!

Are you still here? This is the relaxation room!

Take off!

I wanted to find a traditional souvenir to take home

and the carpet shop is my next port of call.

Carpets are something you should consider buying when you're here.

Can you tell me about each carpet? The design of the carpet

really depends on the geographical location, where they came from.

Every tribe has just one style of making carpets.

So, what's the price range, then, of the carpets?

If you have a phenomenal article,

it goes to 25,000 euro sometimes.

-Would you say they're like pieces of art?

-Of course.

This is a kind of expressionism and it's an old traditional hobby.

The carpet shop is like an art gallery in itself

and it's an amazing exhibition of colour and pattern.

But be prepared to spend a good deal of time here

as the salesman will insist on showing you

as many carpets as possible.

There are carpets everywhere - even on the roof.

Each of these is unique - carpets are to the Moroccans

what wine is to the French and you can learn a lot

about the different regions and handicrafts of the country.

The only problem is making up your mind about which one to buy.

-I actually think I'm going to go with this one, there.

-OK.

The starting price for carpets in this shop is from 45 euro

and there's no duty to be paid

as it's free to export craft products from Morocco.

And if you're worried about bringing the carpet home,

they actually wrap it small enough so you can bring it as hand luggage!

If you're looking for a refuge from the chaos of Marrakech,

only 6km from the city centre, you'll find the Beldi Country Club.

It's set in rose gardens,

something that you may not have been expecting to find in Morocco.

But I wasn't here to admire the roses, oh, no!

I wanted to try my hand at an ancient art.

Morocco is a country of craftsmen.

They've been working with wood, leather, stone

and clay for absolutely centuries, so if you come here,

you're more than likely going to go home

with a beautiful handmade keepsake of your own,

whether it's a carpet, a cushion cover or a leather bag.

Marrakech is famous for its pottery,

with intricate designs that go back unchanged for hundreds of years.

So I figured I'd give it a go myself.

Now, it can be quite a messy job, so I always come prepared.

Old school style. Or rather...

primary school style.

-Karim , my man.

-Hello.

-Let's potter.

-Yeah.

Oh, look at that, we're getting some height now.

We're getting some height. Oh, we're losing it!

I could have gone to the market, bought something beautiful,

intricate, a lovely keepsake that I'd be proud to show off

to family and friends at dinner parties.

Instead, I made this, something I'll put in the back of the cupboard

and never look at again. But I'm proud of it!

Luckily, you can also buy some, well, prettier pots here

and after all that creativity, there's a traditional lunch

and it's Morocco's signature dish.

This is tagine, it's basically a slow-cooked Moroccan stew

and you will find it EVERYWHERE here. It's their national dish.

You're supposed to traditionally eat it with your hands,

-but I'll stick to the knife and fork.

-Very wise, it's molten hot.

Tagine comes in vegetarian or meat options

and I'd describe it as the Moroccan version of Irish stew!

-That's yum!

-That is delicious.

If you fancy an eco-friendly experience

outside the hustle and bustle of Marrakech

then it costs costs 85 euro per person per night to stay here,

based on two people sharing.

But you don't have to go abroad to go on holiday.

We've got a short break, a bit closer to home.

This week I'm seeing what's on offer

in the second largest city in Northern Ireland.

Now, it's a pretty unique place to be known by so many names,

you've got Londonderry, Derry, Legenderry,

Doire Cholmcille, Maiden City, Stroke City...

No matter what you call it, it's got a lot to offer

and it's the perfect short break destination.

It's been known as a place with a lively artistic and music scene

and has been designated as the UK City of Culture 2013.

There's been lots of regeneration in the city

and this year there will be many cultural events taking place.

You can't come here without taking a walk around the famous walls,

they're about a mile long, take you about half an hour

and it's absolutely free.

The walls were built between 1614 and 1619

and are almost perfectly preserved,

making Derry one of the finest examples

of a walled city in Europe.

Now, second only really to the famous walls of the city

are its cannons. How many are there on the walls of Derry?

-There are 24 cannons.

-Right.

-And it's the best

set of canon of known provenance anywhere in Europe.

They're impressive, do you think they're part of the reason

why the walls have stayed so well preserved,

-considering they're 400 years old?

-They saw active service.

They were used in the Great Siege of Derry,

so they're part of the history of this city

and an integral part of the walls of Derry.

The next stop is a bit of a hidden gem.

Prehen House is less than two miles from the city centre

and it's one of the Northwest's most historic

and haunted buildings.

Prehen House is intimately linked with the history of Derry,

but it's most famous for its ghost stories.

Now, all a wee bit too Scooby Doo for my taste,

but one of the stories IS very interesting.

The most famous story is about Half-Hanged McNaghten.

John McNaghten befriended the Knox family,

he not only moved into the house, but convinced their daughter,

Mary Ann, that they were in love and should marry.

He had a fake wedding, including a best man, and the Knox family,

quite rightly worked out he was only after her dowry,

so they decided to whisk her away to Dublin.

McNaghten got wind of it, attacked the coach

and, during the attack, Mary Ann was fatally wounded.

McNaghten was sent to the gallows.

Now, on the first attempt, the rope broke

and McNaghten didn't want to be known as half-hanged,

so he said, "Throw up another rope and let's do it again."

Second time around it succeeded.

So I went in search of Half-Hanged McNaghten, the Prehen Ghost.

So, Colin, you're the owner of the house and you give tours here,

tell me about this room in particular?

Well, this room is famously haunted by John "Half-Hanged" McNaghten.

Lots of people who don't even know the story,

arrive down for breakfast the next morning

with an account of this ghostly presence in their bed.

If you want to stay at Prehen House

rooms are available in the renovated coach house.

It costs £30 per person sharing per night

for bed and breakfast here.

But I should warn you, the ghosts here are a bit Casper-ish,

they're very friendly and they may choose to join you

in the middle of the night.

HE CACKLES DEMONICALLY

Do you know? I don't know how Vincent Price did that.

That cuts the throat of you, that!

Derry is a gateway to Co Donegal,

so you can easily combine a city and countryside break.

My next stop is Rathmullan, an hour's drive from Derry.

The beaches here are absolutely stunning

and that's part of the Donegal experience - beaches

with barely a sinner on them.

But let's be honest, the sun doesn't always shine

in this part of the world. A good rainy day option

is the cookery kitchen at Rathmullan House,

which the hotel offers to guests when the weather closes in.

Kelan, what are we making today?

Today, we're going to make a simple risotto.

We're going to use some courgettes.

We going to do a little twist, we're going to tempura

the courgette flowers as well.

Something different, adds a bit of texture to the risotto.

-OK, let's get started.

-We'll add a bit of oil,

add some shallots, going to add the garlic,

going to add some knobs of butter. The star of the show are courgettes.

We've got these fresh peas as well, we'll stick these in in a bit,

just for the flavour, add the rice.

I'm going to start this tomato broth. Some oil, first of all

and I'll use a red onion - I find they can be a bit sweeter sometimes.

The more colour you've got on an ingredient,

-the more, what I call, free flavour you'll get out of it.

-OK.

These are actually Sungold tomatoes.

So that's that. Onions. Last of the tomatoes and a bit of the garlic.

That's the chervil and the chives just added in now

to the little tomato broth, OK?

So, if you just want to add a little glass of white wine.

You need to keep an eye on me,

you've no idea how big my glasses are here!

-One for the pot.

-Yeah, go for it, yeah.

-There you go.

So I'm just going to add a bit of this veg stock now, OK?

Is it important, you add it little by little, really?

The rice has to absorb ladle by ladle.

You can see the tomatoes - I've just pushed them through a sieve -

and you've got that garlic and onion flavour,

plus the chervil and the chives.

What you're doing is squeezing out all the goodness of the tomato.

That's perfect now, Joe. If you want to turn the heat off.

-Can you say that again, "It's perfect."

-Yes, it is perfect.

It is absolutely perfect.

We're going to tempura some courgette flowers.

-Nice and gently, like that.

-There you go, look at that!

-Beautiful.

That's perfect. Now we'll add some of this lovely tomato broth,

-just around the plate.

-Eat your heart out, MasterChef!

It almost kills me to say this, but,

I built this dish and now I must destroy it.

Try and get a bit of everything there it's very good.

See, I'm not sure whether it's my incredible culinary skills

or the fact that you can make it yourself, but

this is delicious and if the weather isn't going in your favour,

it's worth doing this. You'll go home with a recipe

that you'll try at home and will remind you of your stay here.

My culinary masterclass was part of my stay at Rathmullan House.

The cost for a standard room here is from 75 euro per person sharing

on a bed and breakfast basis.

Back in Morocco we're on a two-centre holiday

taking in Agadir and Marrakech.

The souks or markets of Marrakech are world-famous

and I'm going in search of argan oil,

a product that you really should buy when you're here.

Argan oil is made from argan nuts, which are exclusive to Morocco.

The oil has become an international bestseller

in the beauty business and it's a quarter of the price

that you'll pay back home.

I want to get something for my hair

and everyone's saying that argan oil is the best thing for it.

Of course, argan oil is the best,

but you have to choose the good one,

because here in Morocco we have two kinds.

We have one that you can use only for massage.

So, there's a massage argan oil and there's one for the hair?

-How about this one then?

-This is just for massage.

This one normally is mixed with other oil.

-That's why this one smells not so good.

-It doesn't smell very nice.

I don't think I'd like a massage with that either.

The one for the hair and the skin problems

has to be scientifically in a brown container.

-In a brown container?

-You know why?

-No.

-Because the light and the sun damage the oil.

-Oh, OK!

-This one, it doesn't smell. Smell this one.

-No smell.

-No smell.

OK. No.

So, argan oil isn't only good for hair, it's good for skin

and for stretch marks.

-Of course.

-So, I'll have to just bring a case.

On every corner in this souk, you'll find an apothecary.

If you're into traditional medicine, then this is the place for you.

Talk me through some of these,

-what's this?

-You use it for your hair.

-To grow hair?

-No.

-I need that!

-Only with colour.

-To colour your hair?

-Yeah.

And this is black soap, for washing.

-Black soap?

-Yes. From olives.

-Can I smell it?

-Yes, it's natural. A little bit.

-Yes, it's natural.

-It smells beautiful.

And what are these twigs here? What are these sticks?

-For your teeth.

-For your teeth?

-What do you do, do you chew it?

-Yeah.

-What is it?

-Tea.

You get these smells as you walk around the market.

This is where they're coming from, places like this.

You'll find cures for all your ills here -

they've got remedies for anything from constipation to corns -

but I'm sure some of it should really come with a health warning!

Time for our Number Two choice from your recommendations

and it's one of the world's most famous gardens.

On our website, so many of you said

if you're looking for an oasis in the city,

the Majorelle Gardens was the place to go,

it's one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakech

and it is an absolute must see.

In the 1960s, Marrakech attracted a host of writers, painters,

musicians and other creative types.

Among them was Yves Saint Laurent, who fell in love with the place

and made it his home.

In 1980, he bought Majorelle Gardens to save it from property developers,

almost like a gift to the city he loved.

I wanted to know more about the Majorelle Garden,

and met up with Quito Fierro, who worked with Yves Saint Laurent.

Give me a little bit of the history of the gardens.

How did they come to be?

Well, the garden was designed and created by Jacques Majorelle,

a French painter who came to Marrakech in the early '20s.

He built his workshop, which is behind us,

which is the blue house, to paint and to live inside.

Then he started planting an exotic garden,

with plants that he brought from different parts of the world.

The Moorish and Art Deco structures are painted in a colour

that has become synonymous with the garden itself -

a vivid, cobalt blue, also known as "Majorelle blue",

and it comes from traditional African clothing

and the light and colour of Morocco itself.

And it really brings out the greens, they just bounce.

The garden is famous for its cacti collection,

and it does look slightly incongruous, I'll give you that.

But as you walk through the fronds and the palms and the flowers,

it actually really sets them off.

It looks surreal and strange, and almost alien.

Yves Saint Laurent was buried here after his death in 2008,

and his garden is a true legacy, a living and evolving work of art.

What you'll also find here at the Majorelle Garden is a small museum

displaying a collection of Berber objects

that Yves Saint Laurent collected over his lifetime.

In such an exciting city, full of constant smells and sounds

and things going on, it is great to find such a tranquil

and beautiful place, and the impression you get

is this is such a labour of love.

Marrakech has a reputation as being a hip city to visit,

and away from the busy souks

there are some glamorous hideaways to be found.

Marrakech is becoming famous for its luxury accommodation,

and this hotel has a collection of 12 pure-bred Arabian horses

that you can admire during your stay.

This Hotel, the Selman, has recently opened

and, apart from its collection of Arabian horses,

has a spectacular interior where no expense has been spared.

If you can afford this extravagance,

then a room here costs from 306 euro per night.

If you're looking for a large, modern hotel in Marrakech

that sits outside the busy souks

and is good for restaurants and nightlife,

then we'd recommend Hivernage Hotel and Spa.

A room here costs from 100 euro per person per night,

including breakfast.

And now it's time for our Number One choice

from your recommendations for Morocco.

Now this is something you told us we simply should not miss.

This is Djemaa el-Fna, the main square in Marrakech.

During the day it's relatively quiet,

but come afternoon it gets filled with music entertainers,

street vendors and market stalls.

It's really busy and really noisy, but hugely entertaining.

One of the star attractions here are the snake charmers,

which you have to see during daylight

as they don't perform in the dark.

And come prepared with pockets full of change,

as all the entertainers will expect you to pay

for watching them perform.

And when night falls, that's when the food stalls

really get into business, and it's basically a giant barbecue,

with everything from delicious tagines and sausage,

and shish kebab, through to the less savoury -

sheep's brains and snails. I kid you not.

If you are eating here,

make sure that whatever you buy is cooked right in front of you.

And if meat's not your thing, there are loads of stalls

with dried fruits, like apricots, dates and figs,

all sorts of traditional snacks.

The souks converge here and ,as well as the giant barbecue,

there are plenty more shopping opportunities.

This is a great place to spend a few hours

and just soak in the atmosphere.

The sights, the sounds, the smells,

they really sum up what Marrakech itself is all about.

Many of the package holidays in Agadir organise day trips

to Marrakech, which leave early in the morning

and return late at night.

We'd really recommend this,

as it gives you the chance to experience the real Morocco.

OK, Aiobhinn, how was your Morocco experience?

I loved getting the winter sun,

and I enjoyed wandering around the souks in Marrakech.

How about you, Joe?

Majorelle Garden, definitely put that on your list,

but Djemaa el-Fna Square, you should really visit that,

because that is just the Marrakech experience all in one go.

It's a great spot. Well, join us next time on Getaways.

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