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Episode 2

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Hello and welcome to Getaways,

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the show where we go where you tell us to go.

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This week we're in Austria,

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on a winter sports holiday, to find out why this has become a key

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destination for both skiers and non-skiers alike.

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We're in the Gastein Valley, which is not only famed for its skiing

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and its snow, but also for its thermal springs and spas.

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On our website, we asked you for your recommendations,

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and you have been tweeting us and texting with your top ski tips,

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ideas for days out and ways to avoid doing serious damage to your pocket.

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Coming up, we hit the slopes.

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Whoa!

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We find out what's on offer for the non-skier.

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We visit Salzburg, where the hills are alive with Mozart

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and the sound of music.

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And I take a look at some of our favourite

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things in County Armagh, in this week's short getaway.

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It's straightforward enough to get to the Gastein Valley.

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There is a direct flight from Belfast to Salzburg.

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The flight takes a neat two and a half hours,

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and the journey time to our resort,

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Bad Hofgastein, takes just over an hour.

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That's not bad for a ski transfer.

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Bad Hofgastein is one of the three villages that make up the Gastein

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ski region in central Austria.

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After the Second World War, the area was developed as a ski resort,

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and now the Gastein Valley ski zone stretches over 200km.

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These slopes, or pistes, are always graded by colours,

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indicating how difficult they are.

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Here you'll find nine of the toughest black runs,

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41 intermediate standard red runs

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and 14 blues for novices and beginners.

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Rebecca Gibson from Bangor said,

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"You really should think very carefully about when you come here."

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She was here at the start of December

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and she found the going extremely icy.

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Now, that is going to hurt if you fall on it.

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What I would recommend is you come here between January

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and the end of March.

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Packing for ski holidays is an art.

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OK, it is virtually impossible to pack light for skiing,

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so just go with it.

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First off, you're going to need a ski jacket - with a hood, ideally.

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A little snood thingy. Salopettes, or ski trousers for the uninitiated.

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Snow boots. You need those for walking home.

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Then we've got gloves, keep you warm.

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And also these little hand-warmer things.

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Snap them, keep them in your pocket, nice and toasty during the day.

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Ski socks. Prevent blisters.

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Little eye mask to make sure you get a good night's sleep.

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Thermals, always necessary.

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Thermal water for your face so you don't get sweaty.

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SPF so you don't get burnt. Sunglasses. Lip balm.

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Then we have some little silky numbers for apres ski. Mm-hm.

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And finally, slippers. You need these after a hard day on the slopes.

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You may not choose this particular style - other slippers are available.

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Anton O'Callaghan from County Kerry recommended hiring

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all your ski gear when you get here.

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Boots, skis, snowboards - it will save on excess baggage,

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and unless you're skiing every year, they are a pretty hefty investment.

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Also the ski-hire shops upgrade their stock regularly.

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Their kit is well maintained,

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and you often get to try the latest models.

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Here we go. It is amazing to find boots to fit my massive feet in.

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There we go.

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I love these boots, you walk like Robocop in them. Brilliant.

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OK, I look for a snowboard.

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-Are you a beginner?

-Yes.

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-It is a good lane. Right or left in front?

-I would be left.

-Left, OK.

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Look at that, straight on, you're ready go. Beaut!

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-There you go. Tickety-boo, done.

-And we are finished.

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-Thank you, thanks very much, man. Appreciated.

-Bye.

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A week's hire of boots and snowboard costs around 130 euros.

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Skiing kit costs much the same as snowboarding gear.

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Now, you've got your snowboard and you're good to go,

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but another bit of equipment I would recommend getting is the helmet.

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It is compulsory in Austria for children to wear helmets,

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but not adults. I would say you should.

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I mean...

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it's not a look everyone can pull off, but

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better safe than sorry, right?

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But first things first, I wouldn't dream, and indeed neither

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should you, of venturing onto the mountain without a hearty breakfast.

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You will need all the energy you can muster for a hard day on the slopes.

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I've found somewhere a wee bit special.

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Now, I have had some mighty impressive breakfasts in my time,

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but nothing like this.

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I am 2,700 metres up a snow-capped mountain, looking at that

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view in this awesome metal-and-glass structure,

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about to feast on this.

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I reckon this is how James Bond breakfasts.

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-AS SEAN CONNERY:

-Could you pass me the marmalade?

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And the chef, Harald, has a licence to grill.

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Oh, wow, thank you very much.

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Mmm! Superb.

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You know, the combination of having breakfast in here and that view...

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This is better than any omelette you've ever tasted.

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It costs 45 euros a head to book the pod for special occasions,

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and I'm told it is a favourite place to pop the question.

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While Joe is getting his breakfast, I'm out on the early run.

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And with the help of my ski instructor,

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I'm ready to give it a go.

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-My name is Hans.

-Good for you.

-And...

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-Good for me, yes.

-SHE LAUGHS

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This is the beginning,

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so we have the next two hours for our private lesson.

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Amazing. OK, we are in business.

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If you have bended knees, then you can move them left and right.

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And then you can also...

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Not like a bodycheck. Like this. Yeah?

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Angie, then we try to turn to the other side.

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I feel comforted when you call me Angie.

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What if I just go really quickly around like this? Ooops! OK.

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Yeah, yeah. Young girl always a little bit too quick.

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A little too quick, OK.

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Make it slowly, make it without nervous.

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Now, isn't that better?

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Now we are talking. This feels like it is going very quickly.

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And then we can make our first run. Push a little bit.

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'Well, I look the part,

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'and thankfully it doesn't take me too long

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'before I get the hang of it.'

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-I see, oh, yes.

-Great. Angie!

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Your first run. This is perfect.

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-Is this good, Hans? Am I a natural?

-Stop, stop, stop.

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Perfect, Angie.

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-OK, so let's go to the lift.

-Yeah.

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And we will see what is happening on the steeper parts.

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That's the interesting bit, isn't it?

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'And my instructor for today is Tomas.'

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OK, Joe, so your left leg is at the front,

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so please jump into the fall line.

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I am a complete novice at this, OK. I've done maybe two lessons.

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-OK.

-They didn't go very well.

-OK.

-OK?

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'OK, I'm going to get the excuses in early, all right?'

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All right, look at me first. Bend the knees, go down.

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Twist the body and stop.

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All right, Joe.

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'So, bend the knees, twist the body and...'

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Whoa! Whoa!

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"..wipe out the instructor.'

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-Perfect.

-Yeah, perfect, yeah.

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JOE LAUGHS

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You need definitely a little bit speed,

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and then lean out to the left.

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And then lean out to the right. Superb.

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And then open the skis, in position,

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and turn, lean out to the right.

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And lean out to the left.

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-Can we go over here a little bit?

-Angie, Angie, hello!

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Are you getting a bit scared now?

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SHE LAUGHS

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That was lovely.

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Seriously, I went a bit off piste - not quite to plan,

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not quite controlled - but it looked the part, I think.

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-Angie, you're a good girl.

-Thank you, Hans.

-Super.

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Just risk it for a biscuit. Whoa! No, no, no. Ah!

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-All right, so we try it again, OK?

-OK, here we go.

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'Snowboarding is a lot like life.

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'A wee bit of confidence, keep your head up,

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'everything is going to be grand.'

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Whoa! Oh!

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You can cut to the other bit where it looks really good, right?

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OK, Joe.

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-Bend the knees.

-'You really can tell when you're getting better.

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'I could tell when I wasn't knocking Tomas down as often.'

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All right!

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-Perfect, man.

-That felt good. Yes!

-Yes!

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OK.

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Rachel Garrett from Islandmagee recommended

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hiring your equipment, and indeed getting your ski pass,

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online before you get here, because it can often work out that wee

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bit cheaper than getting it at the resort once you come here.

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It is worth doing your homework.

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A six-day lift pass costs around 225 euros

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and covers the whole of the Gastein ski region.

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If you want to know what you're letting yourself in for, go online.

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Most resorts have webcams,

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so you can see exactly what the slopes are like

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before you leave home.

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And I met up with Paul Kelly from Dublin,

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who's here for a winter weekend.

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Paul, you strike me as a man who is no stranger to the slopes.

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-Have you been here before?

-Oh, yes, about ten times now.

-OK.

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-So what makes you keep coming back?

-Well, it is excellent.

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It's a great ski area, always good snow conditions.

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And it is just such a beautiful place.

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I mean, the bigger question, I guess,

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what is it about skiing you love?

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The freedom, the fresh air, nice activity.

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You feel all the better for it.

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You enjoy it and the evening entertainment after a good

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-day out in the snow.

-The apres-ski?

-Absolutely.

-Yeah.

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As well as skiing and snowboarding, the kids will love sledging,

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and one of the slopes turns into a toboggan run at night-time.

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The kids might also bend your ear to trek one of these cuties.

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These South American alpacas are right at home here in the Alps,

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and the kids can take them for 12 euros.

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This little fella is Bacco. He's my little red-haired friend.

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Come on, buddy. Oh, look at him, so soft.

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So kids can basically bring him for a walk.

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Come on, dude. Come on.

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Look, he looks like my child. Come on.

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And there's also tubing.

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Very appropriately named because it made me look like a complete tube.

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Oh, my granny could go faster than this.

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And you can swap your skis for snow

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shoes for a trek off the beaten track,

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through the deepest waves of snow.

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This is proper cross-country.

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THEY LAUGH

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See, it is funny because you think that you are just walking

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along normally, so you could be doing it in shoes, but it's quite deep.

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-Deep, yes. Yes.

-So you need...

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The snowshoes are very helpful for this.

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-In the water you can see this green, the green leaves?

-Yeah.

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This is watercress.

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'A snowshoe trek costs six euro per person,

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and Hans, who is also the local park ranger,

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can give you a guided tour of the local flora and fauna.

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-Very good for vitamin C.

-Yes.

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Oh!

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-That wasn't very good, was it?

-It is good. Yeah, yeah.

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So you can feel the snow.

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-Perfect.

-Nice move. I've got smooth moves.

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'If you prefer a holiday a bit closer to home,'

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check out this week's short getaway.

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I'm starting my short break in County Armagh's capital, Armagh city,

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one of Ireland's oldest cities and a tourist favourite, with

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historic sites such as the Primates Palace and the Armagh Gaol.

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There's also the more modern Market Place Theatre and Arts Centre,

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and a very well respected Armagh Planetarium.

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This is Ireland's leading centre for astronomical education.

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So you can find out all about astronauts, the planets,

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satellites and all things astro.

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But what Armagh is most famous for is its two cathedrals.

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One of the cathedrals is St Patrick's Church of Ireland,

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and the other is St Patrick's Catholic Cathedral.

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This is where St Patrick built his first church in 445 AD.

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Armagh's place in history was guaranteed

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when St Patrick made it the capital of his church.

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In fact, it's the only city in the world to have two cathedrals

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named after the same patron saint.

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There's a tourist trail around Armagh,

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mapping outside's link to St Patrick.

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Both cathedrals offer guided tours,

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but I'm headed to Armagh's public library,

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which has a very important link to the saint and to ancient Ireland.

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This is pretty cool, it's a reproduction of the ninth

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century Book Of Armagh, which chronicles the life of St Patrick.

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It is not an original, which is probably just as well,

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because I'm a little clumsy, but it's pretty special in its own right.

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It is one of 400 copies made back in 1914.

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The original manuscript is kept at Trinity College Dublin.

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The book is an important testament of ancient Ireland,

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also referring to the likes of Brian Boru,

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perhaps the most famous Irish high king, who's buried here in Armagh.

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But the Book Of Armagh isn't the most famous book

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in this library's collection.

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This is a first edition of Gulliver's Travels.

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And the author, Jonathan Swift, used this particular copy to make

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amendments.

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Jonathan Swift spent a lot of time here in the city

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and the surrounding countryside, where he had many friends,

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and there are several references to the area in his writings.

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And my next stop-off could well have been inspired

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by the kingdom of Lilliput.

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The children's story trail in Slieve Gullion Forest Park

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is 40 minutes from Armagh city.

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This is the entrance to the giant's lair,

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a story trail based on local folklore

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that takes kids through an enchanted forest.

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There's nobody in there.

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Look at this - a little fairy swing. It's very cute.

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Children follow in the footsteps of a cheeky fairy named Flynn,

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who warns you about the sleeping giant, Slieve Gullion.

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From large teacups at the giant's table, to a ladybird house,

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it's a really imaginative trail for the kids and makes for a fun day out.

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This is my favourite piece - a local witch, Calliagh Berra,

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who apparently turned Finn McCool into an old man.

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And if you're looking for somewhere different to stay, Basil Sheils

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is an old Irish-style inn, about 15 minutes away from Armagh city.

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It's based in the small village of Tassagh.

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Guests have the option of bed and breakfast or to go self-catering,

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as one of the rooms includes a kitchenette.

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A night here costs from £30 per person.

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This week, we're taking a winter getaway in Austria.

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We're visiting the ski region of the Gastein Valley in the Austrian Alps.

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So far we've polished up our skills on the piste with snowboarding

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and skiing lessons, met a few of the cutest locals...

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Look! He looks like my child!

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..and now, we're going to find out what else there is to do here

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apart from ski.

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If you've never skied - and, frankly, you think

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you're too old or cowardly to risk life and limb

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by starting now - then cross-country skiing might just be for you.

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I love the speed.

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Don't worry. He's a pro.

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There's a much simpler -

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and dare I say safer - version, and I'm going to give it a go.

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So, Joe. Come in...in the ski...

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Cross-country skis are different

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to the downhill variety, and my instructor Hans is helping me.

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Your heel lifts off the ski, so it is more like walking.

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Now catch me. Catch me if you can. Let's go. Come on.

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Make the steps a little bit longer.

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Honestly, this is trickier than it looks.

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It looks easy, but it is tricky.

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Let's go a little bit faster.

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Come on, Joe, come on!

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You want to win the gold medal, OK? Come on!

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I'd settle for bronze.

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Gold, gold! We talk only about gold, OK?

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We're going for gold today.

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-Yes, yes, yes.

-And in no time, it looks like I'm a-cruisin'.

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And you push a little bit with the sticks.

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When we have so much speed, OK,

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you bring the sticks in this position.

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JOE LAUGHS

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Man, next stop, Ski Sunday. Come on!

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-Hans, thank you so much, man.

-I loved that.

-You're welcome.

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I have never had skis on my feet before. I've never skied.

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Yes, but look.

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I mean, for the next Olympic Games, I mean, the gold medal is for you.

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That says a lot about your Olympic team, to be fair,

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than it does about my prowess,

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but, do you know what? It's all about just

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-getting your balance and your confidence and enjoying it...

-Yes.

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And going at your own pace and getting a great instructor.

0:18:120:18:16

-That is important, key.

-Thank you.

0:18:160:18:18

Bad Hofgastein

0:18:200:18:22

sits low in the valley, and when we were here in March,

0:18:220:18:25

the village was snow-free, so easy to get to and get around.

0:18:250:18:29

The Gastein Valley is famous for its spas,

0:18:290:18:32

with thermal baths and hot springs

0:18:320:18:34

which historically have attracted visitors who came here in the summer

0:18:340:18:38

to take the waters.

0:18:380:18:40

You'll see lots of these gorgeous ornate fountains around the town.

0:18:400:18:44

They're drinking fountains but, bizarrely, it's hot water.

0:18:440:18:47

42 degrees Celsius thermal water and really good for you, too.

0:18:470:18:51

It tastes perfect.

0:18:540:18:55

Maybe a little metallic, but I'm not sure whether that's from his snout

0:18:550:18:58

or whether it's the thermal effects.

0:18:580:19:03

Bad Hofgastein is a good option if you have a non-skier in your group,

0:19:030:19:07

or want to give your legs a break with a day off the slopes.

0:19:070:19:11

Bernadette Morris McCann suggested

0:19:110:19:13

we take full advantage after a long day's skiing.

0:19:130:19:16

"Bad" means "spa" in German

0:19:190:19:21

and Bad Hofgastein has been a spa resort for centuries.

0:19:210:19:25

The town has attracted the great and the good,

0:19:250:19:28

including Bismarck, Schubert and Strauss, who came here

0:19:280:19:32

to indulge in the hot springs and thermal waters.

0:19:320:19:35

And there is a unique feature underneath the town that makes

0:19:350:19:38

this spa experience a bit different.

0:19:380:19:41

So I've now left our hotel spa

0:19:410:19:43

and I'm making my way through the tunnel which connects our hotel

0:19:430:19:46

and numerous other hotels in the town to a super-spa.

0:19:460:19:49

The beauty of this is you don't even have to get dressed.

0:19:490:19:53

It might look like an almighty public pool,

0:19:540:19:57

but this is a spa with thermal waters.

0:19:570:19:59

So I've ended up at the Alpentherme.

0:20:010:20:03

This is the big mamma of the spas in the area.

0:20:030:20:06

It has over eight pools, but I chose this one.

0:20:060:20:09

It is outdoors, surrounded by mountains on the one side

0:20:090:20:12

and ski slopes on the other.

0:20:120:20:13

It's the perfect way to unwind after a day of skiing.

0:20:130:20:16

The Alpentherme has every kind of spa facility you could imagine.

0:20:220:20:26

Indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools,

0:20:260:20:30

hot tubs, water-massage loungers and even a nude sauna,

0:20:300:20:35

but I thought I'd leave that to the more adventurous.

0:20:350:20:38

For an even more hard-core spa experience,

0:20:400:20:43

there are the Gastein Healing Caves,

0:20:430:20:45

where a train brings you to a subterranean sauna.

0:20:450:20:48

The warm humid air and low levels of radon

0:20:510:20:54

is said to ease muscle complaints and help with skin disorders.

0:20:540:20:58

And now from the subterranean back to the top of the mountain.

0:21:020:21:06

There's an amazing feat of engineering that I'm told

0:21:060:21:09

gives the best view of the Austrian Alps.

0:21:090:21:11

Now, regular viewers, you will know I'm not a man

0:21:140:21:16

comfortable with heights,

0:21:160:21:18

but this is one of the highest suspension bridges in Europe.

0:21:180:21:20

It is 7,500 feet above sea level

0:21:200:21:22

and apparently can withstand winds over 120mph,

0:21:220:21:26

though I wouldn't recommend testing that theory.

0:21:260:21:29

It's a rather spectacular way to enjoy the scenery,

0:21:290:21:32

but you will notice I'm not hanging about...too long.

0:21:320:21:35

HE SHUDDERS

0:21:350:21:37

And if you tire of the slopes, one of our top recommendations is

0:21:380:21:42

a day trip to Salzburg, one of Europe's most scenic cities.

0:21:420:21:46

Many of you, including Catherine Morrison,

0:21:460:21:49

recommended an excursion here.

0:21:490:21:51

It's just over an hour's drive from Bad Hofgastein,

0:21:510:21:54

so it's easy to get to it

0:21:540:21:55

and it's a good way to entertain any non-skiers in your group.

0:21:550:22:00

Tour reps and local bus companies

0:22:000:22:02

organise regular trips from the ski resorts.

0:22:020:22:05

A day in Salzburg should start from the Salzburg fortress,

0:22:060:22:09

for the best views over the city and to get your bearings.

0:22:090:22:12

The city is famous for its baroque architecture

0:22:170:22:19

and its rich historical heritage.

0:22:190:22:21

The name Salzburg means "city of salt"

0:22:230:22:25

and refers to the salt mining in the nearby mountains.

0:22:250:22:28

They also successfully mined for gold and silver

0:22:280:22:31

in the local valleys, hence the city's riches.

0:22:310:22:33

This magnificent structure is one of central Europe's largest

0:22:380:22:42

preserved fortresses, and has been a residence for archbishops,

0:22:420:22:45

a military barracks, and a prison.

0:22:450:22:48

Now it's a tourist and arts centre that's open all year round.

0:22:480:22:51

It's a great place for a coffee with a view.

0:22:510:22:54

Salzburg has a well-preserved medieval and baroque old town,

0:22:580:23:02

which demonstrate the wealth of the former city-state.

0:23:020:23:05

The heyday of the principality was in the 17th century,

0:23:050:23:09

when Salzburg was one of the richest cities in Europe.

0:23:090:23:12

Salzburg is the birthplace of classical composer

0:23:230:23:25

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

0:23:250:23:27

He was born here in 1756 and lived here until he was 24.

0:23:270:23:32

Considered a child prodigy, he had written his first composition

0:23:320:23:34

by the age of seven, and by 16, had three operas performed in Milan.

0:23:340:23:39

Mozart wrote more than 600 musical works.

0:23:440:23:47

The best known include The Magic Flute, Don Giovanni

0:23:470:23:50

and The Marriage Of Figaro.

0:23:500:23:52

Mozart was only 35 when he died in Vienna,

0:23:520:23:56

at which point he was teaching other composers

0:23:560:23:58

and inspiring future greats like Beethoven and Haydn.

0:23:580:24:01

And for fans of Mozart, you can

0:24:060:24:08

visit the two houses where he lived in the city.

0:24:080:24:11

The house where he was born has preserved

0:24:120:24:15

the kitchen as it would have been when he lived there.

0:24:150:24:17

The rest of the house is more gallery-like,

0:24:170:24:19

with a collection of artworks

0:24:190:24:21

depicting the composer and his family.

0:24:210:24:23

There are also copies of his earlier compositions.

0:24:270:24:30

And you can see the violin that Mozart first began to play

0:24:330:24:36

at the age of three. Yes, three.

0:24:360:24:39

And the Mozart legacy in Salzburg may not be all you expect.

0:24:400:24:45

We've been told you can't leave Salzburg

0:24:450:24:47

without tasting these chocolate balls -

0:24:470:24:49

fondly known as Mozart balls.

0:24:490:24:51

They're marzipan, nougat and dipped in beautiful chocolate.

0:24:510:24:55

Delicious.

0:24:590:25:01

Salzburg was the location for the all-time classic

0:25:050:25:08

The Sound Of Music, which was filmed here in the 1960s.

0:25:080:25:12

And there's even a Sound Of Music tour around the city.

0:25:120:25:15

A typical tour costs 40 euros and lasts four hours.

0:25:150:25:19

The formal gardens by the City Hall

0:25:210:25:23

are one of the focal points of the tour.

0:25:230:25:25

These are the Mirabell Gardens, where Maria and the kids

0:25:260:25:30

sang Do-Re-Mi, and it's where you'll find

0:25:300:25:32

the Pegasus fountain, where Maria danced with the children.

0:25:320:25:36

It's a lovely place to come for a dander in the afternoon.

0:25:360:25:40

And forgive us, but when you've been

0:25:400:25:42

inspired by a few of your favourite things, strange things happen.

0:25:420:25:45

It's not every day you get to film in the garden

0:25:450:25:48

-where they did The Sound Of Music, right?

-Shall we?

-Hit it.

0:25:480:25:52

# Do, a deer, a female deer

0:25:520:25:55

# Re, a drop of golden sun

0:25:550:25:56

# Mi... #

0:25:560:25:58

Maybe we'll stop right there.

0:25:580:26:00

-Despite our inadequate performance...

-Hey!

0:26:000:26:04

..Salzburg is one of the most important cultural cities in Austria.

0:26:040:26:09

During the summer, it's known for the Salzburg Festival,

0:26:090:26:12

a series of opera, concert and theatre performances.

0:26:120:26:15

SOPRANO SINGS

0:26:150:26:18

At Christmas time, there are winter markets

0:26:200:26:22

and this is possibly when the city is at its most beautiful.

0:26:220:26:25

For our trip to Bad Hofgastein,

0:26:320:26:34

we stayed in Hotel Norica on the main square.

0:26:340:26:37

It's a four-star family-run hotel.

0:26:370:26:39

Independent hotels are still common in Austria

0:26:390:26:42

and they have a much more homely feel than large corporate chain hotels.

0:26:420:26:46

All the hotels in the town have a supply of thermal water

0:26:460:26:50

and the Norica has a particularly good spa,

0:26:500:26:52

but the best thing about this hotel

0:26:520:26:55

is that it connects to, and gives free entry into, the Alpentherme.

0:26:550:27:00

Hotel Salzburgerhof

0:27:100:27:11

is a good three-star option in the centre of town.

0:27:110:27:13

It's been recently modernised

0:27:130:27:16

and there is easy access to the ski bus stop.

0:27:160:27:19

If you're looking for a budget option to keep your holiday costs down,

0:27:290:27:32

then you could try a self-catering apartment.

0:27:320:27:35

The Alpina Apartments are well situated,

0:27:350:27:38

close to both the town centre and the Gastein lifts.

0:27:380:27:41

In the skiing season...

0:27:410:27:42

We booked our holiday package, including flights and hotels,

0:27:500:27:53

with Topflight.

0:27:530:27:55

If you'd like any more information, please visit our website -

0:27:550:27:58

-So our Austrian trip is over.

-How did you like it?

-I loved it.

0:28:010:28:05

You know what? All the stuff like skiing and that,

0:28:050:28:07

snowboarding, brilliant.

0:28:070:28:09

But I do think you've got to get down to Salzburg,

0:28:090:28:11

specially if you're here for like a week, maybe two weeks.

0:28:110:28:14

Break the trip up a bit, get yourself out of the mountains,

0:28:140:28:16

go down to a really fascinating, really interesting city.

0:28:160:28:19

Yeah, you know what?

0:28:190:28:20

I think most people think of skiing, snowboarding when you're here.

0:28:200:28:23

But there's so much more. Obviously outdoorsy stuff -

0:28:230:28:26

whether it's sleighing or snowshoeing or cross-country skiing...

0:28:260:28:29

thermal spas are lovely, as well. Nice way to wind down.

0:28:290:28:32

-I really enjoyed it.

-Me too. See you next time on Getaways.

0:28:320:28:35

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