Episode 3 Getaways


Episode 3

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Hello and welcome to Getaways, the show where you call the shots.

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We've asked you for your hints and tips on what to do,

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what to eat and where to stay.

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We've taken your recommendations on board

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and we're going to try them for ourselves.

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This week we've come to an enduringly popular

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holiday island in the Ionian Sea.

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Yes, we're on the Greek island of Zante, also known as...

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Zakynthos.

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It's a four-hour flight to Zante.

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We flew from Belfast, but there are direct flights Dublin too.

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Coming up:

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I hit the beach

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and go looking for some of the island's oldest inhabitants.

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We explore some caves and discover the Shipwreck Cove.

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And I'm taking a short break in Waterford.

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-Joseph Lindsay.

-Yes.

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We're on an island. What are you looking forward to?

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Well, I've been on the neighbouring islands of Corfu and Kefalonia,

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absolutely loved both.

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I'm just kind of interested to see how Zante compares.

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OK, that's the thing, Zante, Zakynthos, is it either, is it both?

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-What do we call it?

-Well, I'm glad you asked me, Angela.

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Zakynthos is obviously the original Greek name for the island.

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Zante comes from the Italian name for the island from when

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-the Venetian settlers were here.

-Interesting.

-Yes.

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-You have any other nuggets of wisdom?

-No, that's about it.

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-This should be really good fun.

-Yeah.

-Really good.

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Zakynthos, or Zante if you prefer, is a relatively small island

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and you can drive from one end to the other in about an hour.

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The main holiday resort is Laganas, on the south of the island,

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where you'll find long beaches and big hotels.

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The centre of the island is quite green and mountainous,

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while the north of the island is more sparsely populated,

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with smaller, more exclusive beaches and rocky coves.

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But the good news is that wherever you are in Zakynthos,

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nothing is very far away.

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Nicky from County Antrim told us

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to spend a lazy day wandering around Zakynthos town.

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If you're a shopaholic then Zakynthos probably won't impress.

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There are no designer outlets or high-street stores,

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but if you're looking for local artisan craft or souvenirs,

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then you won't be disappointed.

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Oh, very good.

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16 euro.

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Bargain.

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Zante is a popular stop-off for yachts cruising the Greek islands,

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and there's a small fishing fleet.

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Top tip, get here early in the morning

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if you want to see the local fishermen land their catch.

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Like everywhere else these days,

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there's a tourist train that can give you a tour of the town.

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There are also organised walking tours, but it's easy to go exploring

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the town's historical landmarks on your own, and you won't get lost.

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The history of the island is a troubled one that goes back to

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ancient times. It's actually mentioned in the works of Homer,

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the Odyssey and Iliad.

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According to Homer, the first person to occupy this island

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was a Trojan prince, Zakynthos, hence the name,

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but since then it's been occupied by the Spartans,

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the Macedonians, the Persians, the Romans, the Venetians,

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the Neapolitans, the Turks, the French - twice -

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the Russians and the British.

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But it finally became part of Greece in 1864.

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But it didn't end there.

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During World War II, Zante was occupied by German and Italian forces

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while the island was home to a small population of Jews.

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When the Nazis came to round up the Zakynthos Jewish population,

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the mayor and the bishop refused to hand them over

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and instead hid the island's 30 or so Jewish families in the hills.

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It's a matter of great pride on the island that all 175

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Zakynthos Jews survived the war.

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Here stands a memorial dedicated to the men who protected them

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on the site of the synagogue.

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The reason why there is no longer a synagogue here is because

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it was destroyed, with many other buildings, by an earthquake in 1953.

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Indeed, Alan from Carrickfergus says the place is prone to tremors

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and he claims it makes lying on the beach a little surreal.

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But, fear not, everybody - since the big earthquake in 1953,

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all the buildings here have been made quake-proof.

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If you're feeling a bit lively you can take a walk up

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behind Zakynthos town to the little village of Bochali.

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Now, it's quite a trek but the views are definitely worth it.

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Climbing to the top of the hill brings you to

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the Castle of Zakynthos, or the Venetian castle,

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so called because it was built by the Venetians in 1646.

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The ravages of war and earthquakes have taken their toll on the castle,

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but you can still see the remains of the ancient fortifications.

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These days it's a top tourist spot,

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perfect for panoramic views of the island.

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The coastline of Zakynthos boasts an abundance of sandy coves,

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but only one features a massive hunk of rusted metal.

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This is Navagio Beach, also known as Smuggler's Cove,

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or the Shipwreck Beach,

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and it's the number one tourist attraction on Zakynthos.

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In high summer this beach swarms with tourists,

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with tour boats from all around the islands stopping off here.

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So don't say we didn't warn you!

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'But if you want a day out to the beach with a difference,

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'then Michelle from Galway recommended we check it out.'

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Thank you.

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'We chose to take one of the regular sightseeing tours from Porto Vromi

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'and the boat trip takes in some spectacular caves.'

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-Oh, look at that!

-Look at that.

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'There are caves like these all around the coastline,

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'and the locals have given names

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'to some of the more unusual rock formations.'

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-See that little fella hanging off the rocks there?

-Yeah.

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-Poseidon, that's what his name is.

-That's Poseidon?

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-Poseidon.

-Do you know who Poseidon is?

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Er, I think he used to play for...

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-Ireland, left forward!

-THEY LAUGH

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He is actually the Greek god of the sea.

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Of course he is, I knew that.

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Look, that man looks like a Greek god.

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He doesn't really look like a Greek god.

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Oh, here we go. Oh, look!

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To be fair, if you were to be shipwrecked,

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you really couldn't find a better beach.

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The good ship Panagiotis started life in Glasgow,

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hauling heavy goods up and down the Irish Sea,

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before she was bought by a Greek shipping line.

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And eventually she fell into the clutches of a gang of smugglers.

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Legend has it one stormy night in 1980

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the Panagiotis, loaded with contraband

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bound for the Sicilian Mafia,

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was pursued by the Greek Navy and ran aground here at Navagio Beach,

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and here be her last resting place, me hearties, rusting away.

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I think she's beautiful. I love stuff like this.

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Now she has become the backdrop for a million snapshots

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and selfies and her rusting carcass has been inscribed

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with the names of lovestruck travellers from all over the world.

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But there's no denying that there is a romantic beauty about the old ship,

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set against the bleached cliffs and the turquoise sea.

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And among our fellow travellers, I bumped into someone from back home.

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This is Rachel from Carrickfergus.

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Rachel, how are you enjoying Zante so far?

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Absolutely fantastic. First time I've been here.

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-100% I would come back here.

-Yes?

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Beautiful weather, lovely people. Delighted.

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Fantastic. Well, enjoy the rest of your holiday.

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-Thank you very much.

-Thanks, Rachel.

-Thank you. Bye.

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Zante in the summer can get very hot,

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so if you want a day off from the beach, Lisa from Meath suggested

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we head for the cool air in the mountains.

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Because the island is so compact you're never going to be

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more than a short drive from the mountains, and Patricia

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from County Down recommended that we hire a car and go exploring.

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A sporty little convertible like this one

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costs around 100 euro per day,

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but be warned, driving around these narrow roads can be hazardous,

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so be extra cautious.

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The contrast is just amazing.

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We're 20 minutes from the beach and the bustle

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and now we are surrounded by trees, driving through tiny little

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mountain villages, and it feels like a completely different world.

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The countryside around here is covered in olive trees,

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with cypress trees and beehives dotted around the hills.

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But the flat areas of land are planted with vines.

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The grape harvest happens in August

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and most of the Zakynthos crop goes into producing currants.

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But I'm visiting one of the island's vineyards to find out

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how they turn the grapes into wine.

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'The Grampsas winery is run by three generations of the Grampsas family

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'and I've been advised to stop here to find out how the wine is made

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'and, of course, how it tastes.'

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-Hello.

-Hello. Welcome to Grampsas winery.

-Thank you.

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'Sophia is giving me a quick guided tour of the process.

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Here is where the fermentation starts.

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-They are all at low temperature.

-Yes, it is a bit chilly, all right.

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-It is. Let's go inside.

-Yes.

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Here we have the oak barrel.

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Some wine, like the red, has to stay here at least six months

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and then it is ready.

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-So is it ready for us to drink now?

-Yes, of course.

-Let's go!

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-You can see some bottles here.

-Loads of different types.

-Yes.

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Now, I'm driving so I'm going to just have a little.

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Little. For the tasting only.

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You can smell?

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Oh, it's delicious!

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It's really... I mean, I'm not a wine expert,

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but it's full-bodied, I would say.

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You are travelling right now, yes, close your eyes.

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Travelling! I love the dramatics!

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Driving through the hills, there are lots of little roadside shops

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and stores where you can buy some local produce and a few souvenirs.

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But I've pulled over in the little mountain village of Kiliomenos,

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where I have discovered a treasure trove of local produce.

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All of the products in this store are made by a local woman's collective,

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everything from oils to vinegars, jams,

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honey, candles, bread, cheese and even jewellery,

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and they're all sold in this tiny little shop.

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If you have a car then my advice is to take the opportunity

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to explore the places slightly off the beaten track.

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It's easy to get distracted with views like this around

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every other corner, but do it properly, find a beautiful place,

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park up and take it all in.

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If you don't fancy venturing too far afield,

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then maybe a short break in Ireland is more your thing.

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I'm setting the clock back just in time for a new tourism initiative

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exploring Ireland's ancient east, and where better to start

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than with the oldest, and some might say the first city, Waterford.

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On the southern bank of the River Suir,

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Waterford was founded by Viking settlers over 1,000 years ago.

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Today, Reginald's Tower is one of Waterford's three museum attractions,

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taking visitors through 1,000 years of the city's history,

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from the Vikings to the Victorians.

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The Vikings probably arrived on a craft very similar to this.

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But they didn't hang about just combing each other's beards.

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Oh, no, siree! This is the site of the first defence structure,

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built by the Norsemen.

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The medieval museum is built over a 13th century vault

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and contains some unique artefacts from the period,

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but I'm headed next door to the Georgian Bishop's Palace.

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You can choose to take a guided tour through the house,

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or take in the exhibits at your own pace.

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The palace was commissioned by the Bishop of Waterford in 1743

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and now houses a remarkable collection of 18th century

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Irish furniture, silverware, artwork, and, of course, Waterford Crystal.

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In this museum here in the Bishop's Palace we have the oldest collection

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and biggest collection of Waterford glass in the world and, of course,

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immediately we are looking out on, of course, from the room,

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you're looking out at the modern Waterford Crystal and, again,

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that's the whole story of Waterford,

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that the tradition still lasts, it still goes on.

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We still have people going in there to make crystal over there today,

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as they had 200 years ago here in the city.

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This is the Penrose three-ring decanter.

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Made in 1789, it is the oldest piece of Waterford glass in the world.

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I really shouldn't be standing so close to it

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because I can pretty much break things just by looking at them.

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Not far from the Waterford Crystal factory is the Kite Design Studio,

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where you can check out their extraordinary coloured glassware.

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And not only that, you can see it being made.

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Tony Hayes is one of the master craftsman behind this project.

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The four of us were mixed glass-blowers and glass cutters

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at Waterford Crystal and we kind of put a plan together

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and we came up with this. This is the Irish Handmade Glass Company.

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Do you find people visiting here because of the glass,

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-because they are big fans of...

-They do.

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You can see, it's an open studio, people can walk in and walk out.

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They can come in, there's no charge,

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they can watch us making glass and ask us questions as we're doing it.

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Just ten minutes downriver from the city,

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I'm staying at the Waterford Castle Hotel.

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It's situated on its own private island,

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so you need to take a short ferry trip.

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The 500-year-old castle has recently come under new ownership,

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but was in the hands of the same aristocratic family

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right up to the late 1950s.

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The hotel is very grand, but very relaxed,

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and you can have afternoon tea in the lounge

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or a meal in the Munster Room Restaurant.

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Once fed and watered, I'd recommend a walk in the grounds.

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There are over 300 acres here,

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and plenty of activities to keep you occupied,

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everything from croquet through archery to tennis.

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But I mean, come on.

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Pull!

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'Clay pigeon shooting is one of the most popular activities,

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'and I can see why.'

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Pull!

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'It certainly does get the heart pumping.

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'Tuition is included in the price and is suitable for all ability levels.'

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I'm lethal. I'm telling you, I am lethal.

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'Well, I didn't do too badly at all.

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'Lethal, I was, I'm telling you. Lethal.

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'And to round off the castle experience,

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'there are a choice of 19 rooms in the four-star resort,

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costing from £70 per night.

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'For those with a more modest budget,

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'there are over 40 self-catering lodges.'

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This week we're on the Greek island of Zakynthos,

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where we've taken a tour of the town, explored the Shipwreck Beach,

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and tasted the delights of the mountain villages.

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But if you're on holiday to get away from the stresses

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and strains of everyday life,

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then Louise and Rowan from Belfast told us

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this beach has hidden therapeutic properties.

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You need to negotiate some steep steps to get down here,

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but the reason people come to Xigia Beach

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is because the water here is naturally infused with collagen

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and sulphur, which bubbles up from beneath the seabed.

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The first thing you notice when you get down here is the smell.

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It's a bit eggy. Actually it's a lot eggy,

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but after a few deep breaths, it's almost normal.

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And it's said to be good for things like rheumatism and arthritis,

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plus it's good for skin conditions like eczema or psoriasis.

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After a refreshing dip in the mineral waters,

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there's a little taverna just above the beach,

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where you can chill out and feel the glow on your skin.

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The locals call this place the spa beach,

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but it's not a spa in a conventional sense.

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There are no fluffy robes, there's no pan pipe music

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and unfortunately, no-one is here to massage you,

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but you do leave feeling refreshed, rejuvenated and it's free.

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Everywhere you go on Zakynthos,

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you'll come across these cute little critters.

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That's because Zante is home to one of the oldest forms of life

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on Earth, the loggerhead sea turtle,

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known also as the Caretta caretta.

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Irene is one of the wardens in the National Marine Park of Zakynthos.

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So, Irene, this is the nesting beach.

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-The turtles come here to lay their eggs.

-That's the nesting.

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How many nests would you have on the beach during mating season?

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About 1,000 nests. About 1,000 nests, that's the average.

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I've read that the kind of life expectancy, survival expectancy,

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is maybe one in 1,000.

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Yes, a really small number and they are very sensitive

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and they have many enemies in the sea.

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I mean it seems strange to me,

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I'm sure it will for anybody watching, this beach having so many

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turtle nests but tourists are allowed to come here and sunbathe and swim.

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Yes, the people can visit the beach during the day from

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seven o'clock in the morning until eight o'clock in the afternoon.

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That hours, the turtles are not nesting, they are in the sea.

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But during the night, when it's nesting time, when the turtles

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come out later and nest, the beach is closed for everybody.

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You'll see these little cages up and down the beach,

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these mark the spots where the female turtles have made a nest

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and laid their eggs, to let tourists know to keep away from them.

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The eggs hatch and the baby turtles come out at night.

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They head off towards the water.

0:19:480:19:49

They're about this size.

0:19:490:19:52

In relative terms, that's quite a hike,

0:19:520:19:54

so no wonder only one in 1,000 survive.

0:19:540:19:57

I'm here, lads, I'm here.

0:19:570:19:58

Just off the beach in Laganas Bay is a little outcrop of rock

0:20:050:20:09

that has become a favourite haven for the turtles,

0:20:090:20:12

as well as wistful romantics.

0:20:120:20:15

Cameo Island is a quaint and idyllic private island

0:20:150:20:18

that's perfect for sundowners, a day trip, and also happens to be

0:20:180:20:22

one of the most popular wedding destinations on the island.

0:20:220:20:25

And it's easy to see why.

0:20:250:20:28

The island has a heavenly little beach,

0:20:280:20:30

with a taverna and a pier that's made for memorable wedding photos.

0:20:300:20:34

The island's close to the main hotels on Laganas,

0:20:360:20:39

so it's also a practical location for a wedding party.

0:20:390:20:42

'I'm going searching for turtles,

0:20:480:20:50

'and there are a few ways you can get out on the water to go look for them,

0:20:500:20:54

'including organised boat trips,

0:20:540:20:56

'water taxis, and private tours.'

0:20:560:20:58

Hey, Spyros!

0:20:590:21:01

'But I'm hiring my own boat.

0:21:010:21:03

'After a quick lesson in the basic operation of the boat,

0:21:030:21:06

'and a safety briefing, you're good to go.'

0:21:060:21:09

Hello!

0:21:190:21:20

Now, apparently the best place to go for a bit of turtle spotting

0:21:220:21:25

is Turtle Island.

0:21:250:21:27

They swim around the waters there

0:21:270:21:28

and also the island is shaped a bit like a turtle.

0:21:280:21:31

The beach on Turtle Island is a popular stop-off,

0:21:330:21:36

but if you've got your own boat

0:21:360:21:38

then you can pick a quiet place to do some spotting.

0:21:380:21:41

The best time to find turtles is from early June until late August,

0:21:490:21:53

but we're here just a little bit too early in the season,

0:21:530:21:56

but I reckon they're happy enough to be left in peace.

0:21:560:21:59

While Joe is off searching for turtles,

0:22:050:22:08

I'm going on a cultural excursion.

0:22:080:22:10

There are some museums

0:22:110:22:13

and historical attractions in Zante, but if you really want

0:22:130:22:18

to experience ancient Greek culture, then you need to get off the island.

0:22:180:22:22

The ferry from Zakynthos takes less than an hour and a half

0:22:220:22:26

to the Greek mainland, and another hour-and-a-half drive

0:22:260:22:29

brings you to the ancient site of Olympia.

0:22:290:22:32

This is where the Olympic Games originates from,

0:22:350:22:38

and it's where the first games were held back in the eighth century BC.

0:22:380:22:42

The Olympic site has been painstakingly unearthed

0:22:430:22:46

from beneath eight metres of mud,

0:22:460:22:48

which helped to preserve the ancient temples for over 1,000 years.

0:22:480:22:52

How different is the Olympics as we know it today

0:22:540:22:56

from what it was like back then?

0:22:560:22:58

First of all, today the athletes are not competing in the nude,

0:22:580:23:02

-like they used to.

-Right. Just as well, probably.

0:23:020:23:05

And is it true that it was only men who were allowed to compete?

0:23:050:23:08

-Only men.

-OK.

0:23:080:23:10

Women could neither watch nor participate

0:23:100:23:13

until a couple of centuries later that they gave local virgin women,

0:23:130:23:17

non-married girls basically, to have their own local games.

0:23:170:23:21

-Were the women naked too?

-No.

0:23:210:23:24

The girls, they weren't really women, they were very young girls

0:23:240:23:27

and they had short dresses on with one breast exposed.

0:23:270:23:31

It was only women again that could watch them

0:23:310:23:33

and they only did one event, the sprint.

0:23:330:23:36

They didn't do all the events that the men did.

0:23:360:23:38

-So hugely prestigious to win.

-Oh, yes.

0:23:380:23:40

-They would get married like that after that.

-OK.

-A good catch.

0:23:400:23:44

The modern Olympics still has some connection with this place

0:23:460:23:50

and during the 2004 Olympic Games they even staged some events here.

0:23:500:23:55

This is the Temple Of Hera

0:23:570:23:58

and during an Olympic year the torch is taken to this very spot

0:23:580:24:02

and lit by the rays of the sun under the watchful eyes

0:24:020:24:05

of the gods before travelling to the host country.

0:24:050:24:08

The archaeological Museum of Olympia is next to the ruins

0:24:120:24:16

and here you can admire some of the artefacts that have been recovered.

0:24:160:24:20

And the museum's central atrium is cleverly laid out

0:24:240:24:27

to recreate the Temple Of Zeus,

0:24:270:24:30

using the statues unearthed from the site.

0:24:300:24:32

These are the original statues that adorned the pediments

0:24:340:24:36

in the temple so you can see that the outline is still intact.

0:24:360:24:40

Now, what strikes me about these is not just the sheer scale of them,

0:24:400:24:43

also how beautifully preserved they are

0:24:430:24:45

considering they're over 2,500 years old.

0:24:450:24:48

Back on Zante, Laganas has become a magnet for clubbers.

0:24:570:25:02

There are plenty of places where the music is loud

0:25:020:25:04

and the last orders are around November.

0:25:040:25:07

It may not have the reputation of Ibiza or Kavos,

0:25:070:25:10

which is further north in Corfu,

0:25:100:25:12

but the nightlife IS one of the many reasons why people come here.

0:25:120:25:16

But if, like me, you like a good music bar but you don't want to be

0:25:200:25:23

going out at midnight, staying out till six,

0:25:230:25:25

giving it a bit of... Doof! Doof! Doof!

0:25:250:25:27

..you will find Zakynthos town has a more grown-up nightlife scene.

0:25:270:25:31

Zante town is where the locals come at night.

0:25:340:25:37

The clubs in town are modern and stylish,

0:25:380:25:41

with a growing reputation for good music, cocktails and service.

0:25:410:25:45

You might not get the same bang for your buck as you would

0:25:490:25:52

in the bars around Laganas, but if you don't mind paying a little more,

0:25:520:25:55

I would heartily recommend Zante town for a night out.

0:25:550:25:58

We based ourselves at the Sentido Louis Plagos Beach Hotel.

0:26:020:26:06

It's just 30 minutes from the airport

0:26:060:26:08

and 20 minutes from the centre of town.

0:26:080:26:10

The hotel is proud of its food, and the cooking here in Zakynthos

0:26:130:26:17

has an Italian influence, as well as a Middle Eastern flavour.

0:26:170:26:21

The head chef was kind enough to give me

0:26:220:26:24

a quick rundown on the local dishes.

0:26:240:26:26

A typical breakfast in Zakynthos.

0:26:260:26:28

OK. This is pretty meaty.

0:26:280:26:31

This is an Italian beef stew,

0:26:310:26:34

with local cheese and pasta.

0:26:340:26:37

So this is very Venetian influenced.

0:26:370:26:41

The hotel is modern and it's right on the coast.

0:26:410:26:45

It's got its own swimming platform and three pools.

0:26:450:26:49

The beach here might not be ideal for kids,

0:26:490:26:51

but if you want a sandy beach, you won't need to travel far.

0:26:510:26:54

Seven nights here on an all-inclusive basis

0:26:560:26:58

costs from £445, based on two sharing.

0:26:580:27:03

Another option is the Louis Zante Beach Hotel on Laganas Beach.

0:27:030:27:06

It has plenty to do for the kids, including a pirate play park,

0:27:060:27:10

kids' swimming pools, and access to a sandy beach.

0:27:100:27:14

It has family rooms with terraces and private gardens.

0:27:150:27:18

An all-inclusive package here costs from £475 for a week,

0:27:180:27:22

based on two people sharing.

0:27:220:27:23

But if you're looking for somewhere a little bit quirky,

0:27:250:27:27

then we spotted these cute windmills

0:27:270:27:29

that have been converted into self-catering cottages,

0:27:290:27:32

on top of the Skinari Peninsula on the island's northern tip.

0:27:320:27:37

You'll probably want to hire a car if you're staying here,

0:27:370:27:40

and, to be honest, the accommodation isn't spacious,

0:27:400:27:43

but inside there is just about everything you need

0:27:430:27:45

to make you feel at home.

0:27:450:27:47

It costs from £50 per night for a double room.

0:27:470:27:51

We flew to Zakynthos with Jet2, direct from Belfast.

0:27:530:27:56

There is one flight per week direct to Zante during the summer,

0:27:560:27:59

with a ticket averaging around £250.

0:27:590:28:02

If you'd like any more information, you can visit our website.

0:28:040:28:07

-So, Angela, what did you make of Zante?

-I loved it.

0:28:110:28:14

I especially loved the food.

0:28:140:28:16

-To be honest, I particularly loved Shipwreck Beach.

-It was beautiful.

0:28:160:28:19

The beaches in general, cos the spa beach that I went to.

0:28:190:28:22

-Oh, yes.

-Amazing. Yes. It felt very idyllic and peaceful and lovely.

0:28:220:28:28

-This is perfect.

-The water. Look at the water.

0:28:280:28:31

-Beautiful.

-That's all you need to look at.

0:28:310:28:33

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