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Cuba is at a turning point. Decades of isolation from the USA are set to | :00:00. | :00:19. | |
end and tourism is leading a new spirit of enterprise. The wheels are | :00:20. | :00:23. | |
in motion but I was wondering exactly how and where Cuba is headed | :00:24. | :00:32. | |
right now. The economy may benefit, but is this country in danger of | :00:33. | :00:37. | |
losing its soul. The most precious assets that make this place, well, | :00:38. | :00:45. | |
Cuba. In my first trip here in nearly 20 years, I'm in a mission to | :00:46. | :00:47. | |
find out. It may be a small island 90 miles | :00:48. | :01:04. | |
off the coast of Florida, but Cuba has a unique story to tell. Ever | :01:05. | :01:09. | |
since Fidel Castro and his hand of revolutionary seize control in 1959 | :01:10. | :01:14. | |
the country has followed its own socialist path. The USA imposed a | :01:15. | :01:22. | |
trade embargo on Cuba in the early 60s and Americans here were told to | :01:23. | :01:41. | |
return home immediately. Classic cars like this were left behind when | :01:42. | :01:47. | |
the rich American playboys left town after the revolution. Now, it looks | :01:48. | :02:11. | |
like they are on their way back. Because relations have thawed | :02:12. | :02:14. | |
between the two countries and vintage cars are a hit amongst | :02:15. | :02:19. | |
tourists who are here already. You are restoring this 1958 car, a | :02:20. | :02:29. | |
lovely car, can I help? Please. Sit down. Check the window wipers. Is it | :02:30. | :02:46. | |
popping? Perfect. It is beautiful inside this car with all of these | :02:47. | :02:56. | |
wires. I feel like a master craftsmen even though I was just | :02:57. | :02:57. | |
doing this. Nonetheless, wow! This man was a taxi driver five | :02:58. | :03:17. | |
years ago with his allotted 9059 car. Now he is taking advantage of | :03:18. | :03:23. | |
government reforms and is a partner in a business that restores and | :03:24. | :03:28. | |
highs are classic cars to tourists. There are now 22 cars in total. This | :03:29. | :03:41. | |
is such a rewarding job. Look, it is already getting cleaner. The United | :03:42. | :03:52. | |
States allow all the tourists to come here, it'll be very important | :03:53. | :03:58. | |
for us and that is this is particularly. The business brain | :03:59. | :04:04. | |
behind the business is his wife, was already been invited to Washington | :04:05. | :04:13. | |
by the vice president. She is lucky because most Cubans can't travel. It | :04:14. | :04:19. | |
is very important when he finishes this restoration to get money for | :04:20. | :04:23. | |
that work. We will live much better because we can't travel and we will | :04:24. | :04:28. | |
live like capital is but we worked a lot. We live better as well. There's | :04:29. | :04:37. | |
only three in Cuba. Only three in the whole of Cuba? In a country when | :04:38. | :04:42. | |
even a brain surgeon can only earn $30 a month, running a private | :04:43. | :04:45. | |
enterprise can be relatively lucrative. It was this man who was | :04:46. | :04:50. | |
quick to see the appeal of the ditch cast to foreigners -- vintage cars. | :04:51. | :05:01. | |
Beautiful! , go for a drive? He was not always a fan of these cars. Now | :05:02. | :05:05. | |
she has names for all of them, including her favourite, Lola. At | :05:06. | :05:12. | |
the beginning I did not like to drive but now I love to drive. It is | :05:13. | :05:18. | |
very easy and not very common to see a woman driving this kind of car. | :05:19. | :05:33. | |
What is happening here? It is a Wi-Fi area and they are connecting | :05:34. | :05:38. | |
with the Internet. That is the hot spot where everybody comes to get a | :05:39. | :05:46. | |
line. Yes. The Internet was the revolution the past Cuba by. For | :05:47. | :05:51. | |
most, it is unaffordable and restricted. Take a stroll around | :05:52. | :06:01. | |
town and you see more evidence of a golf and wealth. Two parallel | :06:02. | :06:07. | |
currencies, what the locals and won the tourists. You should buy that | :06:08. | :06:14. | |
one. I should buy this one? This man tried to explain it to | :06:15. | :06:21. | |
your two different types of currencies? | :06:22. | :06:34. | |
OK. Soon, I'm glad it will happen when the embargo is. Further | :06:35. | :06:47. | |
explanation I will give you a tip. Thank you very much. Take care. On | :06:48. | :07:03. | |
the flip side there is a strong sense of national pride here. Of | :07:04. | :07:07. | |
pulling through and many local communities have thriving cultural | :07:08. | :07:27. | |
scene. This is a shrine to Cuban's African roots. Rohrl, intense and | :07:28. | :07:34. | |
sometimes angry. Always emotional and passionate. This man is the | :07:35. | :07:48. | |
brainchild of the local after. He encountered opposition from the 30s | :07:49. | :07:54. | |
promoted him of promoting dangerous mystical beliefs. -- authorities who | :07:55. | :08:07. | |
accused him. And then rather rashly, the | :08:08. | :08:41. | |
performers let me join in. From the Rohrl and passionate, to the sublime | :08:42. | :08:56. | |
-- raw. It was founded in 1962, today with 3000 students is the | :08:57. | :09:01. | |
biggest in its kind in the world -- of its. This couple are partners on | :09:02. | :09:09. | |
and offstage and they feel ballet has a unique place in the Cuban way | :09:10. | :09:11. | |
of life. As rising stars, they live in a nice | :09:12. | :09:43. | |
part of town with a young daughter. But they say there is no sense of | :09:44. | :09:48. | |
celebrity here. But people recognise you? As night | :09:49. | :10:20. | |
falls in the city, old Havana loves to celebrate its artistic side. The | :10:21. | :10:32. | |
grand Theatre is a Havana landmark since 1838. But with the Castro's | :10:33. | :10:39. | |
believe that art is for all, it is a for the people, not just the | :10:40. | :10:48. | |
privileged. It is a big charity gala tonight, the talk of the town, and | :10:49. | :10:52. | |
choreographed by the living legend of Cuban ballet. The performers get | :10:53. | :10:57. | |
themselves ready. APPLAUSE. And so too the centrepiece | :10:58. | :11:04. | |
of tonight's show. Anette and Dani perform | :11:05. | :11:09. | |
a sequence from the ballet Giselle. It may look effortless, but this is | :11:10. | :11:19. | |
the result of years of dedication and a passion that I've already | :11:20. | :11:26. | |
noticed so many Cubans share. Head out of Havana and there is | :11:27. | :11:35. | |
an awful lot more to discover My next destination is Trinidad, | :11:36. | :11:53. | |
the sugar town, halfway along the coast of the main island, some | :11:54. | :12:02. | |
350 kilometres from the capital. One really cool thing I've noticed | :12:03. | :12:11. | |
about Cuba is there is hardly any We've been driving down some | :12:12. | :12:15. | |
of the main arteries in the island on our way to Trinidad, and | :12:16. | :12:27. | |
I've hardly seen any cars. This is what perpetuates the notion | :12:28. | :12:30. | |
that Cuba is stuck in a time warp. A perfectly preserved Spanish-era | :12:31. | :12:34. | |
colonial settlement. Tourism is Cuba's biggest industry | :12:35. | :12:41. | |
and it is currently booming, fuelled by the rush of people | :12:42. | :12:45. | |
anticipating the end of an era with Hotel rooms in the capital | :12:46. | :12:48. | |
especially are now very heavily booked, which leaves traveller | :12:49. | :12:54. | |
on a limited budget with a very This is basically the Airbnb | :12:55. | :12:57. | |
prototype, whereby people lease out their spare | :12:58. | :13:09. | |
rooms to tourists, and for many this But where is | :13:10. | :13:12. | |
the man that actually runs this B? Let me introduce you | :13:13. | :13:21. | |
to Luna de Miel. Turns out Julio has several | :13:22. | :13:36. | |
strings to his bow, not just a hotelier, but also a horse | :13:37. | :13:44. | |
whisperer. And you're going to show me exactly | :13:45. | :13:50. | |
how to keep the horse calm and make her trained, | :13:51. | :13:54. | |
is that right? You see she's started | :13:55. | :13:56. | |
to be nervous? And of course, Luna's restlessness | :13:57. | :14:01. | |
can reveal itself in other ways. You actually talk into the ear, | :14:02. | :14:07. | |
or not? This is the funny thing, we never | :14:08. | :14:19. | |
whisper, we never whisper at all. What we do is first establishing the | :14:20. | :14:27. | |
leadership, I have a solution for you, | :14:28. | :14:29. | |
you and me, we lose the hair. I know that a hair transplant | :14:30. | :14:41. | |
could be very expensive but you can Yes, you look | :14:42. | :14:44. | |
like a heavy metal rock star. Which is appropriate as Julio's | :14:45. | :14:50. | |
favourite band is Iron Maiden. The only thing you need is | :14:51. | :14:52. | |
a horse and a cheap hat. On a more serious note, Julio and | :14:53. | :15:00. | |
his wife, who is a trained accountant, | :15:01. | :15:03. | |
are more proof on my trip of the entrepreneurial spirit that is | :15:04. | :15:05. | |
blossoming all around the island. What I expect, I need, | :15:06. | :15:07. | |
because it's my way to be more free I'm not afraid | :15:08. | :15:13. | |
of too many things, because I know Cubans are smart enough, and they | :15:14. | :15:22. | |
won't lose the Cuban identity. So some Americans, because I work | :15:23. | :15:29. | |
a lot with American people, and they say oh, | :15:30. | :15:33. | |
soon you will have McDonald's. But maybe we can have things similar | :15:34. | :15:34. | |
but in our style, in our Cuban style because I like the hamburgers, and I | :15:35. | :15:47. | |
like coffee, because I like to enjoy good | :15:48. | :15:50. | |
coffee, but it will be our style. Julio took me on a trip | :15:51. | :15:52. | |
around Trinidad, On the town's cobbled streets | :15:53. | :15:55. | |
it is the most practical way. So it's no Mercedes | :15:56. | :16:02. | |
but it's really good anyway. Common sense will | :16:03. | :16:12. | |
tell you what to do. And our man | :16:13. | :16:15. | |
of many talents isn't finished yet. Julio runs photography courses | :16:16. | :16:34. | |
for tourists too. Here is an interesting location, | :16:35. | :16:40. | |
what do you like about here? The conception of this kind | :16:41. | :16:48. | |
of photography is like hunting. Hunting, but instead of using a gun | :16:49. | :16:54. | |
or a rifle, you are using the Julio actually likens his style to | :16:55. | :16:58. | |
a gunslinger, the John Wayne In the cowboy movies, you see before | :16:59. | :17:07. | |
shooting, they do with their This is the feel you should have, | :17:08. | :17:19. | |
feel the adrenaline. The adrenaline and the movements, | :17:20. | :17:23. | |
this is the way to keep the camera. The beautiful tower is the symbol | :17:24. | :17:27. | |
of Trinidad, so I will shoot Don't chase the picture, | :17:28. | :17:42. | |
the picture will come to you. What's your favourite song by | :17:43. | :18:00. | |
Iron Maiden? I think all of them, | :18:01. | :18:13. | |
but Run To The Hills. Run To The Hills, | :18:14. | :18:15. | |
remind me how that goes again. Just down the coast and | :18:16. | :18:18. | |
about 180 kilometres south-east This is where you find | :18:19. | :18:45. | |
the historically significant Bay of Pigs, the scene | :18:46. | :18:50. | |
of the failed invasion by Cuban opponents to Castro in 1961, which | :18:51. | :18:53. | |
was backed by the US government. Any invasion these days is from a | :18:54. | :19:00. | |
new rush of tourists to sample the island's nature, which potentially | :19:01. | :19:07. | |
itself creates a new problem. Because up until now, Cuba has been | :19:08. | :19:14. | |
fiercely protective And that includes | :19:15. | :19:16. | |
protecting this fellow. The critically endangered Cuban | :19:17. | :19:33. | |
crocodile. This breeding farm was created at | :19:34. | :19:39. | |
the behest of Fidel Castro in 1962. There are some 4,000 crocs here | :19:40. | :19:44. | |
in total, But the markings, | :19:45. | :19:49. | |
are they distinctive? The colours and the markings | :19:50. | :19:59. | |
of the skin? Yes, it's one of the characteristics | :20:00. | :20:03. | |
of the Cuban crocodile. One of the differences between Cuban | :20:04. | :20:08. | |
and American. Yeah. Whoa, look at that, one | :20:09. | :20:16. | |
movement from me. When they get bigger I'll be | :20:17. | :20:18. | |
the one that's jumping. Crossbreeding with | :20:19. | :20:24. | |
the thriving American crocodile is the biggest current threat | :20:25. | :20:26. | |
from the Cuban croc's survival. This area we prepared | :20:27. | :20:33. | |
for the re-population. They need the area for warmth, | :20:34. | :20:40. | |
for the sun, and for shadow. And this is what makes the Cuban | :20:41. | :20:44. | |
crocodile so unique. They can jump this high using | :20:45. | :20:47. | |
the tail. And all this is to protect | :20:48. | :20:56. | |
the species of the Cuban crocodile? And to stop it from being overrun | :20:57. | :20:59. | |
by American crocodiles. Do you think there is | :21:00. | :21:04. | |
something symbolic here? But sunrise the next morning gives | :21:05. | :21:08. | |
me one more special glimpse This is Salinas de Brito, the | :21:09. | :21:29. | |
biggest swampland in the Caribbean. It is also home to 33 kinds of | :21:30. | :21:43. | |
aquatic birds, including one of the most glamorous, the pink flamingo, | :21:44. | :21:50. | |
who come and go as they please. Now, not all residents | :21:51. | :22:00. | |
of Cuba enjoy that kind of freedom, of course, and certainly not over | :22:01. | :22:03. | |
how the country is run. But who knows where the current path | :22:04. | :22:07. | |
of reform and change may lead? There is no turning back now for | :22:08. | :22:16. | |
Cuba, and the rest of the world will watch with keen interest to see how | :22:17. | :22:20. | |
this feisty, proud island negotiates | :22:21. | :22:24. |