Episode 12 The Travel Show

For some, these old service laneways are a cultural landmark. For others,

this is prime real estate, ripe for development. This week, we ask what

will become of one of Australia's most intriguing attractions?

Coming up on the programme, we explore Melbourne's iconic laneways.

We're treasure hunting in Chile. Carmen straps on her nosebag at some

of Tokyo's animal cafes. -- we meet the blind man bringing cultural

tours to Britain's historic homes. And, with a secret solstice in

Iceland and a trans-African bike race, Michelle has got her global

guide of things to see and do in the coming month.

Hello and welcome to The Travel Show. This week, we're in Melbourne,

Australia. It's second to Sydney in terms of size, but ask any local

from around here, and they'll tell you it's the country's cultural

capital. And it's with culture that we're

kicking off the programme, heading into the city's thriving

backstreets. The city of Melbourne in Australia's south-east is known

for its beautiful riverside setting, lively festivals and cafe culture.

Back in the mid-19th century, Melbourne was, in fact, one of the

richest cities in the world, thanks to a very lucrative gold rush, and

as a result, a network of suitably grand streets were built. But, over

150 years on, it's not these broad boulevards that are capturing

attention. Tucked away between the main streets

are over 180 of these narrow service laneways, some of which are quite

grotty. But, over the past 20 years, they've undergone a transformation

and today, they offer a unique draw for tourists. With lower rents than

the main thoroughfares, these lanes have seen a host of independent art

galleries, coffee shops, fashion boutiques and hidden bars taking up

residence. And some people are now devoting

their days to revealing their secrets. The tourist has to open

their eyes. There is no question. They really do need to look for the

reward. But they'll see gorgeous cafes, lovely young designers, and

that's the fun part for a tourist. The experience of Melbourne becomes

your discovery, rather than it being just a map that you follow.

But, in recent years, several of the city's publicly owned laneways have

been sold into private hands, including a section of Penfold

Place, this quiet alley in the city centre. This has prompted fears

among some that Melbourne's cultural heritage is in danger of being

eroded. It's the portions of laneways that we've sold in recent

years. We've only sold five in two years. We don't go out there touting

it. However, if they can satisfy some very stringent criteria, but

also bring back value to our Melbournians and our tourists,

enhance little spots, little portions that could perhaps do with

some extra love and care, then we love it even more.

Each February, these parts burst into life with the St Jerome's

Laneway Festival. But there is still concern over the future of

Melbourne's backstreets. I don't think there's enough thought into

the long-term effect of losing these smaller lanes, irrespective of the

justifications that they may not be thoroughfares, or they may not be

highly desirable lanes. It strikes me as really short-term thinking,

especially when Melbourne has a massive campaign. It sells itself to

the rest of Australia and the rest of the world as laneway culture.

Take some money off a developer, but who's that benefiting at the end of

the day? Despite the controversy, these back

alleys remain on the cutting edge of Melbourne culture. One of the major

attractions in the laneways is the street art, which is everywhere.

It's becoming famous and attracting tourists from across the world,

including leading artists such as Banksy, who came here and left

behind this little fella. In recent years, an enterprising

group of street artists have begun a unique tour, showing visitors where

the best pieces are to be found in the city's many nooks and crannies.

Just a few streets away at Blender Studios, you can even try your hand

at creating your very own masterpiece. I guess in a way,

Melbourne is the largest public art gallery in the world, you know, and

for the first time ever, Melbourne is culturally elite at something.

We're number one at street art. Well, we're certainly in the top.

That's because we have these amazing laneways, and we have people

travelling to Melbourne to try and get their start.

Some visitors are clearly not as talented as others, however. Put it

down and then do it in long and thin sort of... Quite quick? Or it'll

drip. You want to do it quick and nice, so it holds... OK. I'm getting

nervous. All right. Now for the reveal. I've let us down a bit on

the corner. I don't mind it. As night falls, the character of the

laneways changes, as countless small independent bars open their doors.

Locals say you never know what you'll find down the laneways, and

that was certainly true in my case. I stumbled upon a ukulele lesson, of

all things, part of a series of fun evening classes held in backstreet

bars and cafes across the city. With all of this, it's perhaps not

surprising that the people of Melbourne feel so protective of

their laneways, especially in these changing times.

But, with some luck and responsible public management, perhaps this

unique nexus of Melbourne culture will continue to be celebrated in

another 150 years. Well, if there's one thing that

Melbournians love it's a good cup of coffee, and many in these parts

would have you believe that this city serves up the best in the

world. So, when you come here, make sure to make time to have a cup, and

you can judge for yourself. Here are some other things you

should know about when visiting Melbourne. The city circle trams

should get you around many of the key sites, and the best part is,

it's absolutely free. Just hop on and off whenever you fancy.

They say you get all four seasons in one day here. Melbourne's famous for

its inclement weather, and there's not much you can do about it. An

umbrella and a sense of humour is your best bet.

Melbourne is a festival town, and barely a week goes by without one,

from food to literature and, of course, the annual comedy festival,

considered among the world's top three.

Check online before you book to ensure there's plenty going on

during your stay. And, of course, sport's a massive

attraction here too. Tennis, cricket, horse racing and, of

course, Australian rules football are all huge. So, if you're not

sporty, look ahead and make sure there's not a big event that could

make hotel rooms expensive and scarce.

Still to come: Michelle's here with her to-do list in our global guide.

First, let's check out this week's travel update.

Pouring your shampoo and other liquids into little bottles may

become a thing of a past. A new scanner that can check them without

opening them is being trialled in airports. It could reduce lengthy

security queues and travel problems with bottles containing more than

100 millilitres. The Shard hotel opened this week,

offering views of the tower of London and the Tower Bridge. But a

suite will cost you over ?3250. But that price does include your own

personal butler! And finally, tourists in China have been given

the chance to walk on the ceiling, literally! This house in a Shanghai

suburb has been completely turned upside down, furniture and all.

Hundreds of visitors queued for the chance to pose in the dizzying

attraction. For the past 30 years, the colourful

port town of Valparaiso has been renowned for its brash take on

partisan expression. Walk down any street and every square inch of it

seems covered with graffiti, much of it being political. But I wasn't

after graffiti, I was after tangible communist propaganda. After all,

artistic interpretations of revolt always kind of seem like a naughty

underground history lesson to me. But why Chile? And why now? Well,

because 2013 marks the 40th anniversary of the military coup of

former dictator Augusto Pinochet, a historic moment for the country, and

I wanted a piece of that history. The antique flea market at O'Higgins

Square had every old-fashioned piece of Chilean history - music,

magazines, antiques - everything except the 1970s propaganda I was

after. So a vendor directed me to the house of Luis, a jovial Chilean

artist who did, in fact, have an impressive collection of old

propaganda, some of it from Chile... An election for senators and

deputies. The year 1941. ..some of it from Russia. And this is purely

Marxist propaganda. It is a post about Stalin. All fascinating stuff,

but nothing from the military takeover of 1973. And to make

matters worse, Luis didn't seem too hopeful that I'd be able to find

anything. Well, we're talking about... We're talking about 40

years or more ago. So, practically everything was destroyed. But he did

have an idea. Perhaps a very little book shop in front of Congress. And

so it was back down the mountain, all the while thinking of how, in

such an outspoken town, especially with the 40th anniversary of revolt,

people weren't really talking. And you know, I had heard this about the

Chilean mentality before, you know, a self-confessed shy and

well-behaved people, but in a town as loud and brash as Valparaiso, I

mean, we're talking about 17 universities in 36 square

kilometres, I would have thought there would have been some

underground, system-hating anarchist just willing to sell anything

antiestablishment. But so far, no. And right next to a mural of

Salvador Allende was the man I was looking for. Si. Yuri, como estas?

Bien. To say we had found the mother lode of communist Chilean propaganda

would have been a gross understatement. And the Che

Guevara-loving proprietor, companero or comrade, Yuri, had spent

thousands of pesos turning his house into a museum.

Unfortunately though, companero Yuri's propaganda wasn't technically

for sale. At least, not to non-party members. Communism and capitalism

were never very good bedfellows after all. But I was able to make

out with a few old magazines featuring the previous dictator on

the cover. Not exactly propaganda, but it was as close as a

non-Communist was going to get. And when you consider the day I had,

combined with being able to spend time with the comrade inside his

museum, I dare say that is the best treasurer could have found.

Stay with us on The Travel Show. A little later, we are sending

Carmen to prowl -- a little later we are meeting the blind guide who says

there is more to seeing the past. Hello, this is my Global Guide -

destination highlights, insider buzz and top tips on where to go and when

to go. I am Michelle Janachan. # And when the rhythm starts to

play. # Dance with me...

First, if you like a bit of dirt under your fingernails, well, in the

UK, the Maldon Mud Race happens on May 25th at the Promenade Park in

Essex. It is a frenzied 400-metre dash over the mud banks of the River

Blackwater. The river has to be a low tide to allow a safe course. And

then it is a free-for-all. Many competitors dress up in finery or

fancy dress before they are slathered in mud. And thousands come

to watch and raise money for charity.

Make sure you've some sleep credit before the 72 hours of daylight,

which backdrops Iceland's brand-new Midnight Sun Musical Festival called

Secret Solstice. It is happening in the capital, Reykjavik, from June

20th to 22nd. The theme is local Norse mythology and the dates cannot

be more mystic. When you need to chill out, on-site is the country's

largest thermal pool - Laugardalslaug.

largest thermal pool - To South Africa next, where after

four epic months, the transcontinental Tour d'Afrique bike

race will finish in Cape Town on May 10th. That's after the competitors

will have covered 12,000 kilometres from Khartoum, Sudan, through the

African continent, spending an average of 12 hours a day in the

seat. They'll deserve a chair as they arrive in the shadow of Table

Mountain. -- a cheer. # Cos I am a champion.

# And you're going to hear me roar #.

In the Netherlands, the Oreol Theatre Festival begins on June 13th

on the island of Terschelling, in the north-west of the country. There

will be ten days of street theatre, mime, circus and dance among the

island's natural landscapes. Stages will be set up on beaches, in the

woods, among the dunes, up on the dykes and in barns, boathouses and

an army bunker. # Oh, yeah.

# I gotta roll, can't stand still. # Got a flamin' heart.

# Can't get my fill #. Crossing to Australia for May 16th,

the Ord Valley Muster takes place in the Kimberley region, celebrating

for a fortnight the culture and landscapes of the country's dramatic

north-western region. -- from May the 16th. Visitors can head off on

horseback, following the cattle trails of outback stockmen. There

will also be performances from indigenous musicians. And on May

24th, the Kimberly Moon Experience is a night-time concert on the banks

of the Ord river. Finally, the Yorkshire Festival in

the UK is counting down to the Grand Depart of the Tour de France, the

world's largest annual sporting event. Until July sixth, there will

be music, dance, theatre, film and art, including the Tour of Infinite

Possibility, where the rock band Hope And Social will journey around

the county, making music with, well, anyone who will give it a go.

That's my Global Guide this month. Let me know what is happening in the

place where you live or where you love. We are on Facebook, Twitter

and email. Until next time, happy travelling.

# A big wide world! Springtime in England is a great

time to get out and explore the country's rich heritage and history.

But what if you were unable to experience its beautiful buildings

in a way that most of us take for granted? We travelled to Kent, in

southern England, to meet a man who has his very own way of getting the

best out of the past. My name is Cyril and I am a

volunteer at Ightham Mote. I got into history when I was a little bit

younger, at the age of ten, because I have an accident when I lost my

eyesight. I get into the BBC Radio World Service. So that's how I get

into history and try to know more about the world around me.

In the middle here, there used to be a fireplace. Fast-forward nearly 20

years and Cyril is now a volunteer guide at this 14th-century manor

house nestled in the Kentish countryside, bringing his own unique

set of skills to the job, guiding visitors around the former home of

medieval knights and courtiers to Henry VIII. This is where the

congregation most of the hours would sit. Although he can't see any of

the rooms or artefacts, Cyril uses his other senses to add an extra

dimension to his guided tours. I try to feel what the builders are doing

with lack of material. You know, in this day and age, you will leave

things as most done, but it is quite off, which is what I like.

Right, we're now going into one of my favourite parts of this house,

which is the old chapel. Normally, when I come here on my

own, I leave my office if I'm a little distressed with the computer,

and I will come here and stand probably in the middle. It's that

sense of peace that I feel. By knowing the layout, I thought it

would be more probably damp smell in here, but it's not. It's really

fresh, quite, um... Yeah, it's just that feeling that

you get. It's amazing. But while many people enjoy the

opulence of the stately furnishings, some parts aren't to everyone's

taste. Right. This room is my least favourite room, which is the most

favourite for most people. I actually don't get anything when I

am in this room. I don't feel any sense of connection. Maybe there is

a lot of grandiose displays around, which doesn't attract me that much.

Oh, sorry. Yeah, it was this...that one.

There are a lot of people that are going by without even taking a few

minutes to feel the room, because it might not have looked attractive

like the other rooms. But what this room can give you, nobody get it.

They just pass by. If I am taking people around, I always point out to

them, it's for them to connect, which certain people, sadly, they

lost that bit. Their eyes is always...in a way to find new

things. So you forget the connection of things, the links to things like

the floor, the wood. Like here, this particular wood, it moves. If most

people have time to take that little five minutes to feel those kind of

things, you will end up going out feeling refreshed, which is what I

got when I walk here, you know. Nice shape of it. Like any old house,

there are always new things to discover. Is this moved all over? --

is this smooth? Yes. It's different, I never noticed it until today. Yes!

And Cyril hopes his experiences will give people a different perspective

on the past. Well, that is all we have got time

for on The Travel Show this week. Next week, Henry is off to Hainan,

in China. With golden beaches and year-round sunshine, this island is

tipped to become China's equivalent of the French Riviera. But can it

really rival resorts like Cannes or even Bali and Phuket?

So do join us then if you can. And in the meantime, don't forgot, you

can keep up with us while we are out on the road, in real-time, by

signing up to our social media feed, details of which are on the screen

now. But for now, from me, Christa Larwood, and the rest of The Travel

Show team here in Melbourne, it's goodbye.

You've dug, you've sown, you've planted,

you've watered, you've trimmed, you've nurtured.

Look what you've grown with your patch of land.

A massive thank you for sending in all your pictures, from BBC Two's...