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Sarah Campbell, BBC News. | 0:00:00 | 0:00:06 | |
Warms the cockles. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:08 | |
Now on BBC News, The Travel Show. | 0:00:08 | 0:00:15 | |
This week on The Travel Show, I am
in Norway, because I have heard of | 0:00:15 | 0:00:20 | |
what must be one of the world's most
unique music festivals, where the | 0:00:20 | 0:00:24 | |
stage and the instruments are made
of ice. So, I am taking the chance | 0:00:24 | 0:00:31 | |
to head off from Oslo to Bergen on a
musical journey on one of the | 0:00:31 | 0:00:40 | |
world's most spectacular railways.
I'm going to look deep into Norway's | 0:00:40 | 0:00:43 | |
routes, trying to get a sense of how
this country's landscapes, culture, | 0:00:43 | 0:00:47 | |
and society are brought to life by
its music. -- roots. At first, I | 0:00:47 | 0:01:04 | |
start my trip in Norway's capital of
Oslo. And on the Oslo waterfront, a | 0:01:04 | 0:01:10 | |
Reformation has been taking place. A
big part of that was the spectacular | 0:01:10 | 0:01:14 | |
building, the Oslo Opera House. It
celebrates its 10th anniversary this | 0:01:14 | 0:01:20 | |
year, and is a symbol of this city's
commitment to the arts. So it is a | 0:01:20 | 0:01:25 | |
perfect place to hear some
traditional Norwegian goat horn. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:37 | |
PLAYING HORN. That is so good! Thank
you! It is amazing that such a | 0:01:37 | 0:01:51 | |
variety of sounds come out of such a
simple instrument. Yes, it is quite | 0:01:51 | 0:01:56 | |
simple, as you see. It is a bone,
and it is a goat's corn, all at the | 0:01:56 | 0:02:01 | |
wrong way, this way. Actually, it
was not made for making music. The | 0:02:01 | 0:02:06 | |
shepherds had it to keep the and
bears away. So this was a warning. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:10 | |
This is not pretty music! Yes, not
many melodies are written down, as | 0:02:10 | 0:02:16 | |
we know, but some. Would you say
there is something unique riding | 0:02:16 | 0:02:21 | |
through Norwegian music, and waiters
come from? Nature gives me a loss of | 0:02:21 | 0:02:26 | |
power and a lot of inspiration to
make music. We are quite isolated. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:37 | |
Still, there are people who do this,
try to make their own voice. So I am | 0:02:37 | 0:02:46 | |
about to head off through the
country to Bergen, listening to | 0:02:46 | 0:02:53 | |
music along the way. It is there a
member should be listening out for? | 0:02:53 | 0:02:57 | |
Is there something should be paying
attention to? Try to find some folk | 0:02:57 | 0:03:01 | |
music, some singers, and also go to
small clubs. Look for the small | 0:03:01 | 0:03:10 | |
spots. There are people working all
over the place. So now I have my | 0:03:10 | 0:03:17 | |
mission, there is a train to catch.
Joining me for the first part of my | 0:03:17 | 0:03:24 | |
trip is Jan, a fanatic and a man who
wrote a book on the bogans violence. | 0:03:24 | 0:03:31 | |
Why did you write this big long book
all about this railway? -- | 0:03:31 | 0:03:36 | |
Bergensbanen. The Bergensbanen is
iconic in Norway and in Europe, I | 0:03:36 | 0:03:42 | |
think. Many people know the name and
know what they will see when the | 0:03:42 | 0:03:51 | |
come here. Along its 308 miles, the
trend never gets challenging but | 0:03:51 | 0:03:55 | |
starting to rain. At its peak of
over 1200 metres, it is one of | 0:03:55 | 0:04:01 | |
your's highest railways, before it
descends steeply into Norway's | 0:04:01 | 0:04:06 | |
second city of Jan. It is elemental
landscape pose a huge challenge, and | 0:04:06 | 0:04:10 | |
an engineering triumph for those
working on the rail during its | 0:04:10 | 0:04:13 | |
construction, between 1894 and 1909,
with about 20 people thought to have | 0:04:13 | 0:04:20 | |
died in the process. At a time when
Norway's independence was always on | 0:04:20 | 0:04:25 | |
the horizon, that the construction
of the Bergensbanen was more than an | 0:04:25 | 0:04:29 | |
added convenience for travellers.
This line connected the east and the | 0:04:29 | 0:04:35 | |
western part of Norway. Before that,
people had to go around and take | 0:04:35 | 0:04:39 | |
boats by the sea, or small horse
roads, through the mountains. So the | 0:04:39 | 0:04:46 | |
trends were opening at Norway. The
construction work was darted in | 0:04:46 | 0:04:51 | |
1898, and at that time, we were
admin by Sweden, and they did not | 0:04:51 | 0:04:56 | |
like this at all, because they
thought it could be used for | 0:04:56 | 0:05:01 | |
military purpose. So this is a sign
of Norwegian strength, that maybe | 0:05:01 | 0:05:05 | |
was not an approved of? You could
say that. So in a way, this is a | 0:05:05 | 0:05:11 | |
symbol for the founding of the
Norwegian nation. Yes. All this | 0:05:11 | 0:05:16 | |
makes it special. You can't find
this in other lines. This is what | 0:05:16 | 0:05:20 | |
Norway is. As Jan ridges to stop, I
settle in. Three and a half hours | 0:05:20 | 0:05:30 | |
from Oslo, I pull into this town.
But it is not my destination. -- | 0:05:30 | 0:05:39 | |
reaches his stop. This town usually
features the eyes busy festival. But | 0:05:39 | 0:05:48 | |
on a go upwards, almost 500 metres
higher, to the new home of Finse. -- | 0:05:48 | 0:06:01 | |
the Ice Music Festival. You really
feel and see it in the air. It is | 0:06:01 | 0:06:31 | |
cold here. And it is this cold, the
icy conditions and the elevation, | 0:06:31 | 0:06:36 | |
that led explorers like Shackleton
to train here before going on there | 0:06:36 | 0:06:41 | |
at expeditions. Word is today will
reach a low of -23 Celsius tonight. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:47 | |
So I should write up. -- rug up.
What makes this festival extra | 0:06:47 | 0:06:56 | |
special is that the instruments are
actually made on the day, from | 0:06:56 | 0:07:00 | |
nearby ice. Among the line-up this
year is everything from ice horns to | 0:07:00 | 0:07:10 | |
ice drums, and ice didgeridoos. The
concert is only hours away, and here | 0:07:10 | 0:07:16 | |
you are making the instruments. This
has to be an unusual thing for a | 0:07:16 | 0:07:20 | |
musician. For me it is not. For most
musicians it is. Good sending ice is | 0:07:20 | 0:07:25 | |
the most difficult part. You cannot
just go to your freezer. You cannot | 0:07:25 | 0:07:29 | |
go to the next lake. Ice is like
wine - there are good years and bad | 0:07:29 | 0:07:37 | |
years. So why ice? What inspired
this festival? It is nearly 20 years | 0:07:37 | 0:07:50 | |
as the first time I tried eyes. And
I found the sound so fantastically | 0:07:50 | 0:07:56 | |
beautiful. -- ice. With this water,
you can drink it after the concert. | 0:07:56 | 0:08:07 | |
All we can do is give it back to
nature, where it belongs, and also, | 0:08:07 | 0:08:13 | |
the ice reminds me that we need to
treat ice so gentle not to break it. | 0:08:13 | 0:08:20 | |
It is like how we treat nature. Why
is this happening in Norway, in | 0:08:20 | 0:08:25 | |
particular, aside from all the ice?
At it one of the reasons we can do | 0:08:25 | 0:08:29 | |
this in Norway is that we are very
lucky that we have for many years at | 0:08:29 | 0:08:38 | |
a government that was to support
music. This makes it possible for a | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
musician like me to work with
contemporary improvised music, to | 0:08:41 | 0:08:47 | |
survive, to be even be able to build
a house that they buy a house. It | 0:08:47 | 0:08:54 | |
allows me to experiment. -- that I
have been able to buy a house. What | 0:08:54 | 0:09:00 | |
is this? This is an ice-aphone. The
sound is phenomenal. Do you like it? | 0:09:00 | 0:09:17 | |
That is lovely. Any Jedi could have
a go? Very carefully. -- any chance | 0:09:17 | 0:09:23 | |
I could have a go. I also will
demonstrate no ability. You may as | 0:09:23 | 0:09:31 | |
given to a child. Absolutely. It
works? This is great! -- you may as | 0:09:31 | 0:09:46 | |
well give it to a child. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:49 | |
But one of the biggest challenges
are putting on this festival is the | 0:09:50 | 0:09:54 | |
construction of the venue itself.
And ice concert Hall. -- mandatory. | 0:09:54 | 0:10:04 | |
And this professor oversees the
construction. He and his students | 0:10:04 | 0:10:12 | |
have battled conditions for six days
to create a solid structure. -- An | 0:10:12 | 0:10:16 | |
ice. Each day's work has resulted in
disaster. We started with plan a and | 0:10:16 | 0:10:27 | |
ended up with plan y. Because every
day, you know, it is like you're | 0:10:27 | 0:10:36 | |
climbing wall, slippery, and
full-back down again. Next day you | 0:10:36 | 0:10:44 | |
start again. -- Finse. But that is
how it is and that is the challenge. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:52 | |
You need to work with the forces,
because you can never beat them. -- | 0:10:52 | 0:10:56 | |
fall back. When we work with them,
you know, it is like having a good | 0:10:56 | 0:11:01 | |
friend. It seems lead your team is
working very, very hard. Good luck. | 0:11:01 | 0:11:04 | |
We will see how it works out. We
just need to see how it goes. We | 0:11:04 | 0:11:10 | |
have some hours left. So as evening
approaches, the finishing touches | 0:11:10 | 0:11:17 | |
are fast being made around the site.
I really like it because it is kind | 0:11:17 | 0:11:24 | |
of the sound of nature. So it
doesn't sound like anything else you | 0:11:24 | 0:11:28 | |
have ever heard. So people are
really surprise when they hear it | 0:11:28 | 0:11:36 | |
for the first time. You don't get to
practise, so the music gets made on | 0:11:36 | 0:11:46 | |
stage in front of the audience, and
that Israeli special. Many people | 0:11:46 | 0:11:54 | |
are like, what, is this possible?
That is critical. -- and that is | 0:11:54 | 0:11:59 | |
really special. I guess there is a
lot of folk music on it. It is very | 0:11:59 | 0:12:04 | |
Nordic, with the ice and the snow at
the cold winters. Just in the nick | 0:12:04 | 0:12:13 | |
of time, we gather for it to make an
evening of ice music. -- we gather | 0:12:13 | 0:12:22 | |
for an evening of ice music. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:32 | |
CHEERING AND APPLAUSE | 0:12:59 | 0:13:03 | |
That was amazing. Such a bonkers
sound scape and amazing to think | 0:13:03 | 0:13:09 | |
that although were made from rice.
It is also an interesting way to | 0:13:09 | 0:13:14 | |
experience the landscape of Norway,
freezing cold with a full moon | 0:13:14 | 0:13:18 | |
overhead. I am frozen through. It is
time to head in. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:26 | |
Next morning, the festival continues
without me as I returned to the | 0:13:39 | 0:13:44 | |
Bergensbanen for the next part of my
journey. Travelling on this stretch | 0:13:44 | 0:13:57 | |
of the line, you start to appreciate
the vast landscapes that this | 0:13:57 | 0:14:01 | |
country has to offer. And I cannot
imagine a better way of experiencing | 0:14:01 | 0:14:05 | |
them than this. | 0:14:05 | 0:14:12 | |
MORNING BY GREIG PLAYS | 0:14:26 | 0:14:36 | |
well, my train has arrived at its
destination but my musical journey | 0:14:42 | 0:14:46 | |
across Norway is not yet finished a
close I am in Bergen, a cultural | 0:14:46 | 0:14:53 | |
hotspot and a great way to
experience the great musical | 0:14:53 | 0:14:56 | |
heritage of Norway. | 0:14:56 | 0:15:02 | |
Edvard Grieg, Norway is pot most
well loved composer. Here, a museum | 0:15:17 | 0:15:27 | |
to him has preserved and restored
the grounds where he wants worked. | 0:15:27 | 0:15:31 | |
-- once worked. You can see now we
will enter the house and this is the | 0:15:31 | 0:15:38 | |
main entrance. This year will be a
milestone for the mad as it will be | 0:15:38 | 0:15:43 | |
150 years since he wrote his famous
piano concerto. He really was an | 0:15:43 | 0:15:51 | |
appreciated composer in his
lifetime. We know that in Great | 0:15:51 | 0:15:55 | |
Britain he was one of the most
popular living composers in his | 0:15:55 | 0:15:58 | |
time. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:04 | |
The second part of the 19th century
was going together with all of this | 0:16:11 | 0:16:19 | |
national movement in Norway and
Norway was, by then, a country | 0:16:19 | 0:16:24 | |
together with Sweden with one king
living in Sweden and he found very | 0:16:24 | 0:16:30 | |
young and fresh style and I think
that built upon those dance rhythms | 0:16:30 | 0:16:38 | |
and folk music elements in his
bigger compositions. He looked upon | 0:16:38 | 0:16:46 | |
folk songs as something universal.
They survive from generation to | 0:16:46 | 0:16:52 | |
generation and if you slip through
the board as you can find the same | 0:16:52 | 0:16:56 | |
in folk music. And some of the folk
music that inspired him can still be | 0:16:56 | 0:17:06 | |
heard today. One of the best ways to
experience it is with dance. This | 0:17:06 | 0:17:13 | |
dance company performs contemporary
dance all the way around Norway and | 0:17:13 | 0:17:17 | |
beyond that is inspired by nature
and traditional Norwegian folk | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
roots. They have agreed to show me
some of the traditional elements | 0:17:20 | 0:17:26 | |
shared in a traditional dance. | 0:17:26 | 0:17:30 | |
The dance is mostly a show off
lands. 100 years ago women or also | 0:18:04 | 0:18:11 | |
did that dance. It is mostly boys or
men doing the dance because we want | 0:18:11 | 0:18:16 | |
to. We want to impress the other men
or women. Put your right foot in | 0:18:16 | 0:18:30 | |
front of the left. Side words.
Believe me, this is harder than it | 0:18:30 | 0:18:35 | |
looks. And if you jump a little on
each step one, two. Yes. Nice? And | 0:18:35 | 0:18:43 | |
then around. I think I am getting
hang of it. One, two, one, two. And | 0:18:43 | 0:18:51 | |
then we can come down here. No! So
what is the relationship between the | 0:18:51 | 0:18:58 | |
dance and the music? The fiddle is
our national instrument. Some people | 0:18:58 | 0:19:03 | |
say the fiddle, the music came
because of the dance and some say it | 0:19:03 | 0:19:10 | |
was the other way. I think they
depend on each other. For me and for | 0:19:10 | 0:19:14 | |
many it is very important to use the
music dancing and the music makes me | 0:19:14 | 0:19:19 | |
want to do suddenly some steps and
everything. It is life. Nothing | 0:19:19 | 0:19:26 | |
planned, it is just happening. Nice!
Back in the old days they used the | 0:19:26 | 0:19:44 | |
ceilings to kick down a coin or keep
their heels. They kicked the | 0:19:44 | 0:19:48 | |
ceiling? The houses were smaller
back in those days. In the 1800s the | 0:19:48 | 0:19:55 | |
military started competitions to try
and kick a hat from a stick and it | 0:19:55 | 0:20:02 | |
was about who could kick the
highest. And then it was | 0:20:02 | 0:20:05 | |
incorporated in the dance. So we do
it as a part of the dance and, of | 0:20:05 | 0:20:13 | |
course, it must be a good kick and
the higher it is, the better it is. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:20 | |
Everyone in Norway, I think if I say
the name of the drams, they think of | 0:20:20 | 0:20:26 | |
kicking the hat, that it is the man
-- Mangold. At the dance is the main | 0:20:26 | 0:20:33 | |
goal, kicking the hat is just
topping it. -- they think that | 0:20:33 | 0:20:47 | |
kicking the hat is the main goal. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
Finally, I wanted to get a sense of
where all of this is leading. In a | 0:20:59 | 0:21:06 | |
former meat factory a short walk
from the city centre, it serves as a | 0:21:06 | 0:21:10 | |
venue and melting pot for artists of
all types in the city. This creative | 0:21:10 | 0:21:16 | |
hub is home to the studios of
electronic, just, hip-hop and many | 0:21:16 | 0:21:20 | |
other types of music and it is where
much of Norway's future music is | 0:21:20 | 0:21:27 | |
being thrashed out. These days
especially there is some new mixing | 0:21:27 | 0:21:33 | |
of old traditions with very new
electronic and experimental music. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:43 | |
This man has a studio here and
played saxophone in tonight 's big. | 0:21:43 | 0:21:55 | |
-- gig. Tonight we play with a
guitar player. It is ambient | 0:21:55 | 0:22:04 | |
experimental something, you know. I
think it has a lot to do with the | 0:22:04 | 0:22:09 | |
size of the city you in urban. Only
a few people play things so you have | 0:22:09 | 0:22:16 | |
to co-operate. -- city here again.
Bergen I feel like I have | 0:22:16 | 0:22:24 | |
rediscovered this place through its
music. It is a country constantly | 0:22:24 | 0:22:30 | |
inspired by nature. In treasures its
traditions but is not afraid to look | 0:22:30 | 0:22:35 | |
forward. Where artist are free to
experiment and supported as a | 0:22:35 | 0:22:42 | |
crucial part of society and were
distinctive sounds can be found in | 0:22:42 | 0:22:46 | |
the smallest of communities. Is the
Bergensbanen showed me Norway's | 0:22:46 | 0:22:51 | |
muscle its music has shown me its
heart and soul. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:56 |