Paramedic Toughest Place to be a...


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Three British workers, a bus driver, a midwife and a paramedic.

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They have all accepted the challenge to do their job

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under the some of the toughest conditions on the planet.

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That was a really, really horrible birth.

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That's one satisfied customer, he got off and he's alive.

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How you guys do this in these conditions?

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Angie Dymott is leaving her home in the Welsh valleys

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and her job as a Cardiff paramedic to work in Guatemala city,

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one of the most violent cities on earth,

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where gang killings run out of control.

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As far as I know at the moment, we're going to a shooting.

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Angie will be working in a team of dedicated paramedics

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who risk their lives to deal with killings on a daily basis.

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You have to wear the bulletproof vest.

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Working in the chaos and the carnage of a city dominated

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by violent drug gangs will test Angie's skills to the limit.

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This programme contains scenes which some viewers may find disturbing.

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Until now, the closest Angie Dymott has come to Latin America

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is her weekly Zumba fitness class in Cardiff.

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Come on, then.

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Angie lives in the Welsh valleys with her husband Rob, their son Christopher and Glen the dog.

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She's been working as a paramedic in Cardiff for six years.

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When it comes down to it, we do save lives

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and we're all very, very proud of what we do.

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It's a great, rewarding job.

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Just dealing with people in general - the old person that's fallen on the floor,

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that needs cleaning up, that needs putting back into bed,

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that needs a cup of tea making or just some kind words.

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That's on one end and then to the other end,

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where it's the person that needs to be taken as quickly as possible to the nearest A&E.

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It's Friday, the busiest night on Angie's beat in central Cardiff.

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Angie's highly trained in emergency medicine and drives a state-of-the-art ambulance.

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OK, welcome to my office.

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This is my domain for four days a week, all right.

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We've got cupboards for everything. Everything has a space, all our airways, our oxygen masks,

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our music for the back, very important.

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Our suction kit.

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When needed. Oh.

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Vomit bowls.

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So you always make sure on a Friday and Saturday night you have a good stack of vomit bowls.

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If you have nothing else, you need those.

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Our cat flaps.

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They're bins. This is our Zol. We can do 12-lead ECGs, 3-lead ECGs...

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OK. Look at that.

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We don't tolerate aggressive, violent and threatening behaviour.

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We don't tolerate it in Welsh either.

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Look at this, right, this is the best bit, OK?

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When you open this door... the steps just fall out.

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How good is that?

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It's 9pm and Angie and her colleague Gus receive their first emergency call.

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How old is he?

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All right, Kyle, have you actually been sick, darling?

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I'm shaking and my whole, my adrenaline is shaking.

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-Kyle, calm down. What are you afraid of?

-I'm dying, I'm dying.

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I can't, I can't...

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No, Kyle, listen. Kyle, you're panicking now.

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-I can't feel like this, no...

-Come on, Nick, steady now.

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What we have here is an 18-year-old who has had lots and lots and lots to drink,

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which is very, very normal for us here,

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and ending up in the back of an ambulance, which really is not the way it should be,

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using up an ambulance, using up an A&E bed, just for alcohol,

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so, I suppose, frustrating in that way.

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I'm just going to park behind the police here

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and there's a man waving to me in the window.

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Angie's second call and the paramedics and police

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have been sent to a house where a young man has been assaulted.

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OK, lovely, that's all right.

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Show them the bruises on your back.

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While Gus deals with the boy's injuries, Angie looks after his mum.

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Is he your only son?

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-He's your only one.

-My baby.

-Your baby or your only one?

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No, I got two girls.

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-You got two girls, have you?

-Two girls.

-But he's your youngest.

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All right. You never stop worrying about them, do you?

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Usually I work with a female member of staff

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and together they call us the Mumbulance,

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because we like to sort of, you know, mother people

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and I give them the sympathy that they need and the sympathy they deserve.

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Breathe slowly. OK.

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You don't want my Barry Manilow International Fan Club pen.

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It really is a Barry Manilow.

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Barry Manilow International Fan Club. My special pen and I'm proud.

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OK.

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# Her name was Lola

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# She was a showgirl

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# With yellow feathers in her hair

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# And a dress cut down to there... #

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Hello?

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After a series of drink-related incidents,

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patient transfers and minor injury call-outs,

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Angie and Gus's Friday night shift ends.

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Tonight, we've had a variety of jobs,

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some better than others.

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I think every paramedic looks for what's called a real job,

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or a job that's interesting, a job that's exciting,

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a job where you can use your skills and use what you've been trained for.

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Angie is about to get what she wants.

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She's leaving her family and village life to work in Guatemala City,

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one of the most violent places in the world.

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To help prepare for her trip, the paramedics in Guatemala

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have sent her some essential Spanish phrases to learn.

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It's a taste of what may be to come.

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'Are there criminals still in the area?'

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Oh. Hey. 'Did they have weapons?'

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Good God, it gets worse.

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Now they got weapons.

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Ellos tenian armas?

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Ages...dimea...armis?!

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-OK...

-So they're talking about guns and weapons.

-Yeah.

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Have you seen a gunshot?

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No, I haven't.

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-I think you'd better get your books out.

-I think I better had.

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Angie's rarely sees violent crime in Cardiff,

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so Guatemala is likely to test her training to the limit.

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I know that I'm a competent paramedic.

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I wouldn't be working as one if I wasn't.

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But will I be a competent paramedic in Guatemala?

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That is a fear, that is a fear.

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Definitely.

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It's 5,000 miles from the Welsh valleys to Central America

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where Angie is about to find out if she's got what it takes.

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Guatemala is a small country of just 14 million people

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but it has a violent history.

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A long civil war ended in the mid-90s but left the country devastated.

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Now there's a new war on the streets as violent gangs,

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called Maras, terrorise the city.

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A weak and corrupt police force does little to combat them.

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The stability of Guatemala is also threatened by

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powerful Mexican drug cartels,

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who transit billions of dollars of cocaine through the country.

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Robbery, murder and gang killings are on the rise.

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And picking up the pieces are the nation's bomberos,

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combined firemen and paramedics, who witness violent death every day.

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For the next two weeks, Angie will join a paramedic team working the very toughest beat.

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Looks like it'll be an interesting place to get out and have a look

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but we've been told that it's not that safe a place to wander round, even day time.

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It looks just like a normal market street to me at the moment.

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There's little kiddies running about.

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It's hard to believe, really, that it is that dangerous.

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Bomberos fire station number ten, Guatemala City,

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is sandwiched between two funeral parlours.

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Angie's guide will be local bombero Luis Archila,

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or Archie, to his friends.

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-Hello.

-Hello.

-How are you?

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I'm well, thank you.

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So the taxi brought me straight to the door.

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Why could I not get out on my way here?

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It's a red zone around here.

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A red zone, OK, which means...

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So you may be...

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robbed or killed or kidnapped if you're not wearing a uniform.

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I personally don't walk around here.

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You have your... I don't know if we spell it right.

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Oh, wow.

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-Oh, thank you.

-And this is just for precaution.

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-OK.

-You will have to wear the bulletproof vest.

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And are we likely to see shootings and stabbings tonight?

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-Yeah.

-Yeah.

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That's quite normal, is it?

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How many, on average, would you say a week, are there shootings in Guatemala?

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I will say, in the whole country,

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probably, like, 15 to 20 persons per day.

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-Per day.

-Per day.

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It rises a little bit more in the weekend,

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but the average, it's like that.

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So I think today is going to be busy.

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So let's prepare and let's rock and roll.

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OK, let's rock and roll.

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I think she was not prepared for all this...

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crime and bullets and knives and blood.

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I know I am in quite a volatile, dangerous place,

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but hopefully, I'll just be able to focus on what I'm doing and not let my surroundings

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worry me too much or hinder me with what I'm doing.

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So it's going to be a little bit shocking,

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but I think she has been trained for that

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and she shall be able to go through that, so that's my impression as of now.

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The first call-out and it's to one of the most dangerous parts of town.

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We're in the right area, as far as we know,

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but I think nobody knows what the incident is.

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This is the patient.

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The man has a deep knife wound.

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But as Angie starts to treat him Archie tells her to get the patient

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off the street and into the ambulance straight away.

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-So he was, he was drunk.

-Yeah.

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And he had a fight.

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The knife was going to the chest.

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OK. He put his arm up instead. OK.

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Yeah, if you put some on there.

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No worries, no worries.

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He's saying that he's going to fold it, shoot.

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-The guy that did what.

-Oh, OK.

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He's really pissed off with him.

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-I can imagine.

-With the guy that did that.

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HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-What's that?

-He's going to fight with the guy that did this to him so.

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OK.

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In the first case, she just helped me there where I get there,

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and she was good, doing the right thing.

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Good work. It's the kind of work that you say, "OK, let's do another one".

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So, I love it.

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But Angie is concerned about how the patient was treated.

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Usually we would have transported to the ambulance

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and done all the blood pressure

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and all the observations before any intervention.

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I went by your instructions.

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Why did we do it differently then?

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We were in a really, really dangerous area.

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There's a lot of gangs around there, so that's why it's like what we call pack and leave.

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-OK.

-We're leaving.

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But there's no time to discuss patient care as calls come thick and fast.

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Another call, again to the red zone.

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As far as I know at the moment,

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we're going to a shooting in zone 12, which is apparently a red zone.

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OK. We have arrived.

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-What...

-Angie and the team are the first paramedics on the scene but it looks like they are too late.

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-Can you feel it?

-No, it's brain here.

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-I have the bullet there.

-OK.

-It's in the face.

-So what do we do now?

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There's nothing we can do.

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So do we leave the casualty here?

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We have to cover him. He has another...

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So he's been shot several times then.

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-Yeah.

-OK.

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-So they're going to bring their blankets so we can cover him.

-And then we...

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-We have to wait till the Colonel get here.

-OK. All right.

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-Careful, there's...

-OK.

-All the bullets are there.

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-Have you seen that before?

-No. Never.

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-So your first time is there?

-Yeah.

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Difficult.

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-And every person reacts different.

-Yeah.

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I remember my first person that I picked that was killed.

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I didn't sleep the whole night.

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Just on playing on your mind all the time. Yes.

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-You see he has more than seven shots.

-Yeah.

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So somebody really wants to kill him.

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Thank you.

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As per the police, the guy was in a bus going,

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two cars stopped the bus, the guys climbed into the bus,

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pulled him out and execute him in the street.

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Oh. He's so young.

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Yeah, looks like he's young.

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-There was loads of witnesses there, though.

-Yeah.

-And what...

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It's an open street. Nobody can do anything, just run everywhere.

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-Yeah.

-And make sure you don't get shot too.

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-And you can see that we are in a gang area.

-Right.

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-Because you see all the graffitis.

-OK.

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We don't know what this guy has done, but even so,

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to hunt him down and shoot him in the street in front of people,

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and then drive off, just seems that, you know, life has no value.

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Its highly unlikely the killers will be ever arrested.

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As many as 97% of murders here go unpunished.

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The police and government are accused of widespread corruption.

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Recently, a leading international monitoring organisation

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described the country as "a paradise for criminals".

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It's 4am and Angie's shift with the bomberos has ended.

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She's staying with her host.

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Archie is a volunteer paramedic, one of 20,

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who give up their weekends to work alongside the permanent paid staff.

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He's from a wealthy family and works as a sales manager by day.

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Unlike most Guatemalans, he can afford to live in a heavily-guarded compound.

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Buenos noches, gracias.

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So this is, like, three guards are sleeping there.

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That's what we have and then we have a second gate.

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And is it necessary to have all this security around here?

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Yeah.

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Just to give you a little example, last week, my parents-in-law,

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they were driving with my two sons, and they almost get robbed.

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They point the gun to my mother-in-law,

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and they showed the gun to my kid and my kid started screaming,

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so to avoid that, that's why we live...

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Live in a... Right.

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And is it more expensive to live in an area like this?

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Yeah.

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-But it's safer.

-It's safer.

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Absolutely. OK.

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This is a lovely home that I'm staying in.

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Just sad, really, that it's behind so many security gates

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and high walls, but if you want your children to be safe,

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I suppose that's what you have to do.

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But this, look, this beautiful little boy,

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beautiful, was traumatised by having a gun...

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No child should have to see that.

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How cute is he? My notes,

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that's "welcome" in

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three-year-old Guatemalan.

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Maho, Archie's wife, is getting the family ready to go to church.

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They're committed Christians and this is an important part of their week.

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-I'm Maho.

-Maho, nice to meet you.

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-Have you with us.

-Oh, thank you. Thank you for letting me stay.

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Of course, of course, no thank you for joining us.

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As the violence in Guatemala increases,

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there has been a massive rise in the popularity of evangelical churches.

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This is one of the biggest in the world.

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Angie hasn't been to church for years.

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CONGREGATION SING

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I didn't think that this place would affect me the way it did,

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to see everybody together, all there for the same reason,

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and then comparing it to less than 24 hours ago, what we saw were

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being gunned down, young people in the street.

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I can certainly see why Archie comes here,

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especially doing the job he does.

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I could see that I would come here regularly if I worked as a bombero full time in Guatemala.

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It's Angie's second evening shift with the bomberos.

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News comes in of a multiple shooting in the city centre.

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Angie's team have been called in to help.

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Right we're going to the hospital now...

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..to help another ambulance take off three injured people.

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They've been involved in a shooting, right? Yeah.

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At the hospital they encounter the victims of a bloodbath.

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Two men are dead and three more are injured.

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One survivor has been shot in the face,

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another has multiple wounds to the leg.

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Angie is treating a man with a bullet lodged in his arm.

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But this isn't just another gangland hit.

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They were all university students.

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They weren't involved in any drugs or gangs

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and their lives have just been completely changed.

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I mean, lives have been lost.

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It's not a good place out there on the streets of Guatemala City.

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Not a good place at all.

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There's a lot of hate, violence and life is cheap.

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The next casualty for tonight's shift is not quite so dramatic.

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This is quite a relief, actually,

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to have somebody wandering in that's not covered in blood...

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..cos it has been full on for two hours.

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In the middle of the shift,

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there's time for some food and to learn the bomberos' rituals.

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So before eating we do two things.

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-OK.

-First, we pray.

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And the newest is the one that is going to pray.

0:25:130:25:16

So the pray is for you.

0:25:160:25:18

For me. OK.

0:25:180:25:20

Say Grace.

0:25:200:25:22

All right.

0:25:220:25:25

Thank you for this wonderful food that has been put before us

0:25:250:25:31

by some very kind people and can I also say thank you

0:25:310:25:36

for this opportunity and for everyone being so welcome.

0:25:360:25:42

Um... Let's all enjoy our food.

0:25:420:25:45

Amen.

0:25:450:25:47

And next, somebody has to wash the dishes.

0:25:470:25:50

Ah, so you do.

0:25:500:25:51

Everybody has to pick one and the smallest card is going to...

0:25:530:25:56

The lowest one does the dishes.

0:25:560:25:58

Does the dishes.

0:25:580:26:00

So obviously gang culture is huge here.

0:26:160:26:20

Now it's, like, 200 or 300% more than five years ago,

0:26:200:26:25

so it's really bad.

0:26:250:26:27

So what can be done about it, though?

0:26:270:26:29

Is anything being done? Or is there nothing that can be done?

0:26:290:26:32

Nothing much, put them all inside jails.

0:26:320:26:35

And the thing is, we don't have enough jails to keep all of them in.

0:26:350:26:40

A good solution is what they're doing in Honduras and in El Salvador.

0:26:400:26:44

They're putting them together and they're killing each other.

0:26:440:26:47

And it's my personal opinion that's what they have to do, put them together in the jail and let them...

0:26:470:26:52

And let them fight it out.

0:26:520:26:54

They get all of their funding from extortions.

0:26:540:26:58

-Like, these kids that we just saw in the hospital...

-Yeah.

0:26:580:27:02

They probably weren't extortions, but they were like an initiation,

0:27:020:27:07

so in the initiation, also in the gangs, they say,

0:27:070:27:11

"OK, you want to be in the gang,

0:27:110:27:14

"go and kill somebody?".

0:27:140:27:16

-And it just happened to be those five.

-Unfortunately they were.

0:27:160:27:20

They have no conscience, though, or no value of life.

0:27:200:27:24

Nothing. And it's...

0:27:240:27:27

awful.

0:27:270:27:28

At 3:00am, Angie's second shift ends.

0:27:300:27:33

She wakes in the security of Archie's fortified house.

0:27:380:27:42

Today Archie's wife, Maho,

0:27:420:27:44

wants to take her out of the compound to go shopping.

0:27:440:27:47

In Guatemala, this is not as simple as it sounds.

0:27:480:27:52

Now we're going to town.

0:27:520:27:54

You have to be very precautious.

0:27:540:27:56

Take all your jewellery off.

0:27:560:27:57

-Oh, right.

-Your earrings, yeah, or something that is valuable.

0:27:570:28:01

-This, maybe?

-Yeah, I wouldn't recommend it.

0:28:010:28:03

It is, like, different for you but...

0:28:030:28:05

Very different, very different.

0:28:050:28:08

I never have to take my jewellery off to go shopping. That's for sure.

0:28:080:28:11

I didn't bring my purse.

0:28:110:28:14

I just have the cash with me and...

0:28:140:28:17

-OK.

-And nothing else. Yeah.

0:28:170:28:18

-All right.

-So don't bring attention to us.

0:28:180:28:21

Things here that...

0:28:210:28:24

-you have to be thinking all the time, it seems.

-Yeah, yeah.

0:28:240:28:27

But it is like part of your routine.

0:28:270:28:29

It's like getting dressed or getting showered.

0:28:290:28:32

It's like you're thinking all the time.

0:28:320:28:34

Yeah.

0:28:340:28:36

And was it the same as you when you were young as well?

0:28:360:28:39

No, no. There was like delinquency and everything

0:28:390:28:43

but now they kill you for your cell phone.

0:28:430:28:45

It is ridiculous, right?

0:28:450:28:48

-Yeah.

-A life for a cell phone.

0:28:480:28:50

But now, these days, it's what we live with.

0:28:500:28:53

Maho is shopping for her son's first birthday party.

0:28:560:29:00

-Ready? Which way? Face down?

-Face up.

-Face up?

0:29:000:29:04

-Yeah.

-OK.

-That's the advice from the experts.

0:29:040:29:07

Ha-ha, there we are.

0:29:070:29:09

-Pinata experts.

-Yeah.

-Wow!

0:29:090:29:12

Muchas gracias. Gracias.

0:29:120:29:14

-It looks great in there!

-Yeah, I know.

0:29:140:29:16

Bye.

0:29:230:29:25

Even at the party it's hard to escape the violence.

0:29:250:29:28

Angie, we're in the newspaper.

0:29:300:29:32

Nuestro Diario is Guatemala's biggest selling newspaper.

0:29:320:29:36

-We're in the newspaper?

-What a picture.

-Yeah.

0:29:360:29:39

It's known locally as Muerto Diario, or the daily death.

0:29:390:29:44

Oh, that was, er... pretty violent last night.

0:29:440:29:48

Yeah, it was.

0:29:480:29:49

It was really violent.

0:29:490:29:51

If I was living in Guatemala City

0:29:530:29:56

I just don't think I'd want to live here any more.

0:29:560:29:59

I think I'd just want to go. I'd just want to go somewhere safer,

0:29:590:30:03

especially with children.

0:30:030:30:05

THEY CHATTER EXCITEDLY

0:30:050:30:08

Especially with something that's getting worse,

0:30:110:30:13

getting worse every day.

0:30:130:30:15

That's pretty grim. Yeah. I wouldn't want to live here.

0:30:150:30:18

Not at all.

0:30:180:30:20

Not at all.

0:30:200:30:22

But Angie's stay has only just begun.

0:30:220:30:24

From now on she'll be leaving the gated security of Archie's house

0:30:240:30:28

and living with another of the bomberos

0:30:280:30:31

in a very different part of town.

0:30:310:30:33

Unlike Archie, Wilfredo Ponce is a full time bombero.

0:30:370:30:42

Hola, Wilfredo. Si?

0:30:440:30:48

The Bomberos Voluntarios rely almost totally on donations to pay for their medical kit

0:30:520:30:57

and the salaries of the dedicated permanent staff like Wilfredo.

0:30:570:31:01

He seems a really nice man that's very proud of his job

0:31:010:31:06

and very proud of what he does.

0:31:060:31:08

Very proud and honoured to be a permanent bombero.

0:31:080:31:11

Very knowledgeable as well.

0:31:130:31:15

And said he's looking forward to learning from me.

0:31:150:31:17

I'm looking forward to learning from him, I think, definitely.

0:31:170:31:21

But aside from checking the kit there are other important jobs for Angie to learn.

0:31:210:31:25

Like making pork and rice,

0:31:250:31:28

Guatemalan style.

0:31:280:31:29

I'm going as fast as I can.

0:31:320:31:34

I think this is a great way to work.

0:31:360:31:39

I think it really brings people together.

0:31:390:31:42

It would be good if this could happen

0:31:420:31:44

back on our station but just the nature of the jobs are so different.

0:31:440:31:49

Where I work it's quite often

0:31:490:31:51

you can go all day without seeing somebody else on your shift.

0:31:510:31:55

BELL RINGS

0:31:560:31:58

They've been called to a road traffic accident,

0:32:030:32:06

which should be more familiar territory for Angie.

0:32:060:32:08

After 30 minutes of classic bombero driving they arrive at the scene.

0:32:160:32:20

A 25-tonne-truck carrying tortilla flour

0:32:320:32:35

has crashed through the central reservation.

0:32:350:32:38

Two men have been crushed underneath.

0:32:470:32:50

But one very lucky 19-year-old has been pulled from the wreckage.

0:32:500:32:55

We've got this guy here

0:32:590:33:02

whose main injury seems to be his leg,

0:33:020:33:06

and he's got quite a bad laceration to his knee

0:33:060:33:10

and to his head.

0:33:100:33:13

That's a pretty grand scale accident.

0:33:130:33:15

I've never seen an accident like that before. And we've just got here at the tail end of it

0:33:150:33:20

so you can imagine what it would have been like to be first on scene.

0:33:200:33:24

That's pretty incredible.

0:33:240:33:26

The emergency calls just keep coming.

0:33:290:33:31

By the time they get back,

0:33:510:33:53

the carefully prepared meal is stone cold.

0:33:530:33:56

We're finally having pizza

0:33:560:33:58

because we've attempted to eat food now for about the last four hours,

0:33:580:34:02

which was the food that I helped prepare.

0:34:020:34:07

It's probably is just as well that everyone's ended up with pizza.

0:34:070:34:10

Angie is staying with Wilfredo while they are working together.

0:34:230:34:27

He lives with his family 20 miles outside the city.

0:34:280:34:32

It couldn't be more different from Archie's house.

0:34:320:34:35

This feels to me like the real Guatemala,

0:34:380:34:41

or more like the real Guatemala.

0:34:410:34:43

The community, the small shops, the people working together,

0:34:430:34:47

people walking round the streets.

0:34:470:34:50

Where Archie lives, behind the gates, I think it's what

0:34:500:34:54

unfortunately has become necessary in Guatemala

0:34:540:34:58

to survive and to be safe, but not being able to live freely.

0:34:580:35:03

Yeah, this definitely feels to me more like

0:35:100:35:12

I thought what Guatemala would.

0:35:120:35:14

-Buenos dias.

-Hola. Buenos dias.

0:35:260:35:28

Bienvenida. Como estas? Muy bien?

0:35:280:35:31

Hola. Como estas?

0:35:400:35:43

Ah. Hola.

0:35:430:35:45

Has he got a name?

0:36:090:36:10

Patito.

0:36:100:36:12

Do you want the parrot to kiss you?

0:36:150:36:18

Do I want the parrot...?

0:36:180:36:20

It's been a dream of mine.

0:36:200:36:23

The house is very small and very, very different to Archie's house.

0:36:230:36:29

Obviously the... Well, Wilfredo said they make the best of what they've got and you can see that.

0:36:290:36:35

But so small for all those people.

0:36:350:36:37

They've all moved in together so I can have a room to myself.

0:36:370:36:41

I'm just very touched actually that they've done that for me.

0:36:410:36:44

I feel a bit like the queen,

0:36:440:36:46

which is nice.

0:36:460:36:48

This place is lovely. It's so relaxing.

0:37:000:37:03

It's so how I imagined a little village in Guatemala to be.

0:37:030:37:07

Everybody knows everyone else.

0:37:070:37:10

I'm sure everyone knows everyone's business here as well,

0:37:100:37:13

like they do where I live at home. It's lovely.

0:37:130:37:15

Really nice. I feel really comfortable walking round here.

0:37:150:37:18

But even here, life is not as peaceful as it seems.

0:37:210:37:25

To travel the 20 miles to work every day Wilfredo catches a bus from the bus station at five in the morning.

0:37:250:37:32

But this simple journey to work is fraught with peril.

0:37:320:37:36

TRANSLATION: Travelling is very difficult.

0:37:360:37:39

At the moment they are extorting money from the bus companies.

0:37:390:37:43

And because the companies aren't paying, people are being killed every day on the buses.

0:37:430:37:49

And why do they do this? Why does it happen?

0:37:490:37:51

TRANSLATION: The gangs ask them for money

0:37:510:37:53

and if they don't hand it over, they kill them.

0:37:530:37:56

Do you ever feel afraid to travel by bus?

0:37:560:37:59

TRANSLATION: Yes, it's uncomfortable.

0:37:590:38:02

Every time you get on the bus,

0:38:020:38:03

you look around to check who is getting on.

0:38:030:38:05

And you think, something's going to happen here.

0:38:050:38:09

Guatemala City has been gripped by a campaign of terror on the buses.

0:38:110:38:16

In the last five years more than 500 bus drivers

0:38:160:38:19

and dozens of bystanders, including children, have been murdered

0:38:190:38:23

as the Maras have tried to extort money from the bus companies.

0:38:230:38:26

And the threat is not far away.

0:38:280:38:31

TRANSLATION: Those houses you can see over there,

0:38:310:38:34

that's the neighbourhood of Peronia.

0:38:340:38:36

It's got a lot of gangs. It's a very dangerous place.

0:38:380:38:42

Here it's very quiet,

0:38:440:38:46

but they used to come over and steal people's belongings.

0:38:460:38:50

So is it the Maras that create the trouble that you find on the local buses here?

0:38:500:38:57

Is it the Maras that do the extortion?

0:38:570:39:01

TRANSLATION: That's right, they are the ones that do it.

0:39:010:39:04

At first, they just extorted the buses.

0:39:040:39:06

Then they started extorting households, schools and shops.

0:39:060:39:10

I wasn't expecting the Maras to live that close to Wilfredo,

0:39:130:39:17

and such a big presence of them as well.

0:39:170:39:21

It looks such a lovely place over the green hills,

0:39:210:39:26

and you can see it there.

0:39:260:39:29

But Wilfredo said he just wouldn't go there and it's just not a place you'd walk around.

0:39:290:39:33

Back in Wilfredo's house, Angie can relax and get to know more about the family.

0:39:370:39:41

Do you want to be a bombero when you grow up?

0:39:440:39:48

Good boy. It's a good job.

0:39:480:39:51

What do you want to be when you are a big girl?

0:39:510:39:54

A ballerina? Show me.

0:39:560:39:58

Oh!

0:40:000:40:02

Beautiful.

0:40:020:40:05

But there seems to be no peace here in Guatemala.

0:40:070:40:12

By 11 o'clock, outside Wilfredo's house, the street is full of men,

0:40:120:40:17

many in balaclavas. Some are armed.

0:40:170:40:20

They are the guardians of the neighbourhood.

0:40:200:40:25

From 11 o'clock they watch the whole neighbourhood, just in case anything happens.

0:40:250:40:29

Since this system was set up, nothing serious has happened.

0:40:290:40:35

Quite shocking that this is what it takes

0:40:420:40:45

to make sure that the village sleeps safely.

0:40:450:40:48

People give up a big chunk of their time,

0:40:510:40:54

when really, you should be able to be sleeping soundly in your bed.

0:40:540:40:58

Increasingly, ordinary Guatemalans

0:40:590:41:02

are forming vigilante groups to protect themselves against the gangs.

0:41:020:41:07

The police seem to have abandoned the streets.

0:41:070:41:09

I am really, really, really tired now,

0:41:120:41:16

so I'll say good night.

0:41:160:41:19

And know that I am going to sleep soundly in this bed tonight,

0:41:190:41:23

because I'm being protected by those wonderful people out there.

0:41:230:41:27

It's stupid o'clock in the morning.

0:41:390:41:44

About quarter to five, I think.

0:41:440:41:45

Wilfredo usually gets to work on the bus,

0:41:470:41:51

but we've been advised that it's not safe to travel on the buses,

0:41:510:41:56

so I've ordered a taxi.

0:41:560:41:58

I haven't asked Wilfredo yet, but I'm going to ask him if he'll join me.

0:41:580:42:02

(Will you join me in it and we can travel to work together?)

0:42:020:42:06

Here's to a good shift.

0:42:160:42:17

While most of the villagers start an uncertain journey on the buses,

0:42:240:42:27

for once, Wilfredo avoids the risk by travelling in the back of a cab.

0:42:270:42:32

After a week in Guatemala, Angie is getting used to her new job and workmates.

0:42:410:42:46

She is becoming a bombero.

0:42:460:42:49

Yeah!

0:42:490:42:51

In the middle of another shift,

0:42:590:43:02

Angie and Wilfredo get their most bizarre call.

0:43:020:43:06

The police want them to identify the contents of a blood-soaked bag which they have found in the street.

0:43:060:43:11

But there's a reason the police are nervous.

0:43:310:43:36

TRANSLATION: A few months ago, it was fashionable to find heads here.

0:43:360:43:41

And arms, legs, hearts, lungs, or any bits of people's insides.

0:43:410:43:47

So they thought this could be a head, or body parts.

0:43:470:43:51

Even for Guatemala City, this series of gruesome murders

0:43:560:44:00

and decapitations represents a worrying escalation in the violence.

0:44:000:44:05

It's further evidence that the city has become a target

0:44:050:44:10

for the fearsome Mexican drug cartels.

0:44:100:44:12

In Mexico, to the north, the state is at war with the cartels.

0:44:140:44:19

It's a conflict that cost more than 30,000 lives.

0:44:190:44:26

Now there are fears that Guatemala could be completely overwhelmed

0:44:260:44:30

by the powerful Mexican cocaine traffickers.

0:44:300:44:33

But there is a glimmer of hope in this troubled country.

0:44:340:44:38

The government has begun to negotiate

0:44:380:44:41

with some of the gangs to try and bring the killings under control.

0:44:410:44:45

The Ministry of Culture has invited Angie to visit a gang-controlled area that they claim is now safe.

0:44:450:44:52

It's Peronia, the village near Wilfredo's house.

0:44:520:44:57

Understandably, Angie has her doubts.

0:44:570:45:00

We've been asked to visit Peronia

0:45:000:45:03

by the Ministry of Culture,

0:45:030:45:06

who are doing some work there.

0:45:060:45:09

Well, we've been invited,

0:45:120:45:14

and we've been told it's quite safe now, so...

0:45:140:45:19

I don't know.

0:45:190:45:20

I'm a little bit scared, but I'd be interested to go.

0:45:200:45:25

So Wilfredo, if I asked you to come with me,

0:45:370:45:43

would you do that? Would you come to Peronia with me?

0:45:430:45:46

OK, I understand you need to think about it.

0:45:490:45:53

I mean, in a way,

0:45:570:45:58

although I am quite afraid to go in because of the things

0:45:580:46:03

that Wilfredo said, it would be very fascinating to actually...

0:46:030:46:07

speak to these gang members,

0:46:070:46:10

and just to see what kind of people they are.

0:46:100:46:14

And just why they do what they do,

0:46:140:46:18

or how they came to do what they do.

0:46:180:46:22

Um... Yeah.

0:46:220:46:25

Next morning, and Angie has decided to take the plunge.

0:46:290:46:33

She's heading to Peronia. Wilfredo has agreed to meet her there.

0:46:330:46:38

She's hoping to talk to some of the people behind the violence she has had to deal with.

0:46:380:46:42

Just waiting here now for a bus to take me to Peronia.

0:46:420:46:48

Waiting for a guy called Gustavo,

0:46:500:46:52

who's going to be my guide, I guess.

0:46:520:46:55

OK?

0:46:550:46:57

Hello.

0:46:570:46:59

-Mucho gusto. Soy Angie.

-Angie. Mucho gusto.

0:47:030:47:05

I have to say I'm a little bit...

0:47:070:47:09

worried and concerned about today.

0:47:090:47:11

How safe is it?

0:47:120:47:15

TRANSLATION: We're going to Peronia.

0:47:150:47:19

The government initiatives have had a big impact.

0:47:190:47:22

The two gangs there managed to sign a peace agreement.

0:47:220:47:25

So things are a bit calmer now.

0:47:250:47:27

Gustavo and his friends aren't quite your usual government representatives.

0:47:310:47:35

This isn't what I expected of the Ministry of Culture at all.

0:47:380:47:40

When I knew they were going to be taking me in to Peronia, I thought it was going to be quite formal.

0:47:400:47:45

But it's not like that at all. They're all slightly bonkers, to be honest.

0:47:490:47:53

It turns out that Gustavo and his colleagues are all ex-gang members themselves.

0:47:550:48:00

We come from the street.

0:48:070:48:10

We have credibility with the gangs.

0:48:100:48:12

They trust us.

0:48:120:48:15

This allows us to be a bridge to help them change.

0:48:150:48:18

So how did you manage to get away from the street then, and do what you're doing now?

0:48:200:48:26

I never left.

0:48:260:48:28

I still feel part of the street.

0:48:280:48:30

But the part of the street that tries to help people.

0:48:300:48:33

Gustavo's approach has already got results.

0:48:370:48:41

He played a key role in bringing a ceasefire between Los Metales

0:48:410:48:45

and Los Caballos, gangs who, before the truce,

0:48:450:48:48

were killing up to ten people a day.

0:48:480:48:52

It's the only gang ceasefire to ever happen in Guatemala.

0:48:540:48:58

And now Gustavo is taking Angie to meet the ex-leader

0:48:580:49:03

of the notorious Metales gang.

0:49:030:49:05

Wilfredo and Mildred have turned up to show their support.

0:49:090:49:13

So here we are, Peronia. Yeah.

0:49:130:49:15

Just what you were telling me about.

0:49:150:49:17

Glad you came.

0:49:180:49:21

Glad you came.

0:49:210:49:22

Gracias.

0:49:260:49:29

Juan Francisco Sarceno has the tattoos the Maras are famed for,

0:49:310:49:35

but he has now left the gang he used to lead.

0:49:350:49:39

He has found God,

0:49:390:49:41

-and now he has a job.

-In your past life, did you ever actually kill anybody?

0:49:410:49:46

TRANSLATION: Unfortunately, it's compulsory if you follow that path.

0:49:490:49:54

You have many rivalries and enemies.

0:49:540:49:56

And some of them tried to kill me.

0:49:580:50:02

I've been shot in the face.

0:50:020:50:04

I've also been wounded here.

0:50:040:50:06

You kill them, or they kill you.

0:50:080:50:10

I used to extort money from the buses. Now I work on them.

0:50:160:50:21

So now that you're a bus driver,

0:50:210:50:23

how does that make you feel knowing that you used to extort the bus drivers here?

0:50:230:50:28

I thank God.

0:50:340:50:36

And also the bus owner who gave me a break.

0:50:360:50:40

He opened a door to me, and showed me that there are people

0:50:400:50:46

who value you, and believe in you.

0:50:460:50:51

Suddenly, something is wrong.

0:50:540:50:58

Gustavo tells everybody to get back on the bus.

0:50:580:51:01

It's time to leave.

0:51:010:51:03

When we were filming with the ex-leader of the Metales gang,

0:51:100:51:14

many of the young guys still in the gang were annoyed.

0:51:140:51:18

They drove past, revving their engines.

0:51:200:51:22

For your safety, we decided it was time to leave.

0:51:240:51:29

It was a nervous few minutes,

0:51:290:51:32

but the visit has been worthwhile.

0:51:320:51:35

It was strange to actually put a face to the killings,

0:51:350:51:39

and the violence, because they've been faceless till now.

0:51:390:51:45

All we've seen is the mayhem that they've left behind.

0:51:450:51:49

I didn't feel any sort of hatred towards him,

0:51:490:51:54

or any...

0:51:540:51:55

No, he just seemed an ordinary man,

0:51:550:51:59

who now just wants to earn a living.

0:51:590:52:03

It's hard to believe that

0:52:030:52:05

he did the things that he did.

0:52:050:52:08

Angie is clocking on for her last shift with the bomberos.

0:52:120:52:16

It turns out to be one of the most shocking.

0:52:190:52:21

They are racing to the scene of one of Guatemala City's regular bus shootings.

0:52:290:52:33

It's an incident on a bus.

0:52:410:52:43

OK.

0:52:470:52:49

-Si...

-A passenger has been shot twice in the chest.

0:53:040:53:07

It's not clear if he is still alive.

0:53:070:53:09

Yeah. Here.

0:53:090:53:10

Yeah, yeah, si, si.

0:53:130:53:15

Si, si, si, pulso.

0:53:150:53:18

I need my kit.

0:53:210:53:24

Can we have...a mask as we go?

0:53:310:53:35

After two weeks with the bomberos, Angie is taking charge of the situation.

0:53:350:53:41

Ambu bag, Ambu bag. Er...

0:53:410:53:44

Can I have it now?

0:53:440:53:46

That's OK,

0:53:510:53:52

that'll do. Let's just get out, shall we, and then we can...

0:53:520:53:56

This man might be saved, but as Angie and the bomberos

0:53:560:53:59

struggle to get him off the bus,

0:53:590:54:02

-his life is ebbing away.

-Si, si, oh, si.

0:54:020:54:07

Connect that up for me, please?

0:54:150:54:18

Connect it.

0:54:180:54:20

Yeah. He's a big boy.

0:54:280:54:32

Can...cannula.

0:54:320:54:35

Gracias, gracias.

0:54:350:54:38

The ambulance is tiny compared to the one that Angie is used to back home.

0:54:380:54:43

Si, si.

0:54:430:54:44

OK. Compresion. Gracias.

0:54:470:54:50

Let me check carotid.

0:54:520:54:55

He had one on the bus, he hasn't got one now.

0:54:550:54:59

How you guys do this in these conditions...

0:54:590:55:04

Compresion.

0:55:080:55:10

Ooh.

0:55:100:55:12

Despite their best efforts, the man dies.

0:55:140:55:16

That poor guy's gone.

0:55:160:55:18

It's another brutal murder on Guatemala's buses.

0:55:200:55:23

Wilfredo, I don't know how, seeing that now, and you having to go on the buses,

0:55:250:55:29

I don't know how you deal with it.

0:55:290:55:32

Sometimes you expect people to thank you for what you do,

0:55:320:55:35

maybe the families or something.

0:55:350:55:37

But the greatest gift you can have here is to wake up alive the next day.

0:55:370:55:43

The short time I've been in Guatemala, especially

0:56:020:56:04

in Guatemala City, I've realised it's a tough, tough place anyway,

0:56:040:56:08

er, seen a lot of violence and brutality around,

0:56:080:56:13

and these guys, the voluntarios, are,

0:56:130:56:15

are sort of putting themselves out there in the midst of it.

0:56:150:56:20

But I can kind of see why, because it is very, very exciting.

0:56:230:56:27

And they love it, and they love it,

0:56:310:56:33

and they're so, so good at it.

0:56:330:56:35

Thank you! I feel I really belong now.

0:56:350:56:40

I got kind of mixed feelings about going - I would love to do some more shifts with the bomberos.

0:56:400:56:45

So, mixed feelings, yes, of course I miss my family, and of course,

0:56:460:56:51

but yeah, I could stay out here, I could stay out here.

0:56:510:56:55

One month later, and Angie is back in Cardiff, but she hasn't forgotten the bomberos.

0:57:030:57:08

Since I got back from Guatemala,

0:57:080:57:10

I made it my mission to do a bit of fundraising and raise some money,

0:57:100:57:16

so I am in the process of organising a sponsored Zumbathon,

0:57:160:57:19

or Zumba Till You Drop.

0:57:190:57:21

I've persuaded a lot of my colleagues to come tonight and have a practice

0:57:230:57:27

because some of them have never done Zumba before - hopefully, they'll get a taste for it,

0:57:270:57:31

like I have, and we will have a good money-raising event in the near future.

0:57:310:57:36

Guatemala City is a violent place and it make me appreciate

0:57:410:57:46

what an easy life, compared to my colleagues out there,

0:57:460:57:50

that I have here without the fear of shootings in the street,

0:57:500:57:56

shootings on buses, stabbings.

0:57:560:58:00

I'd love to go back out there

0:58:000:58:02

and take them some equipment, things that we take for granted that I know they really need.

0:58:020:58:09

It was a privilege, and I felt very proud to be part of the bomberos

0:58:100:58:15

of Guatemala city - it was amazing.

0:58:150:58:17

Next time, a bus driver leaves his London garage to get behind the wheel in Manila.

0:58:200:58:26

-They're coming from all directions.

-Everywhere.

0:58:260:58:29

He has to go solo on some of the busiest roads in the world.

0:58:290:58:33

I should give him 43 change but the minimum fare is seven.

0:58:330:58:38

And he learns what it takes to survive in the most densely populated city on earth.

0:58:380:58:43

He works 12 hours a day to live in a box.

0:58:430:58:46

A man that works that hard shouldn't have to.

0:58:460:58:49

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:59:030:59:06

E-mail [email protected]

0:59:060:59:11

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