Peru Wild Shepherdess with Kate Humble


Peru

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Transcript


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Yay, yay, yay, yay, yay!

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Like that?

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THEY LAUGH

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Look at me. I'm covered.

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In the most remote places on earth,

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people depend on their animals for survival.

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A few years ago, I moved to a farm in the Welsh hills.

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I've become fascinated

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by the ancient bond between shepherd and flock.

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In Afghanistan, I looked back in time

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and saw the origins of our relationship with livestock.

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The admiration that I have for these people really knows no bounds.

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Now, in Peru, I get to grips with a very different animal.

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The alpaca.

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There is sex going on in every direction.

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Aqui, aqui!

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Alpaca herding in Peru goes back thousands of years.

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But today, the people of the Andes are at a crossroads

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and must choose between tradition and progress.

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What I'm going for is really what I go for when I pick a racehorse,

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which is a pretty face and a nice bum.

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I'm in the heartland of one of the greatest empires

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the world has ever seen.

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The Incas are famous for their architecture

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and many of their buildings are still standing today.

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But what few people know is just how skilled they were

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as farmers and as herders.

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They had this amazing livestock management system

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which allowed them to build up

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one of the finest herds that the world has ever known.

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And in turn, produce some of the finest textiles.

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Now, I'm heading from here right up into the high mountains

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to some of the remote modern-day Peruvian herding communities

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to find out what, if any, of that Inca heritage still remains.

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The arrival of the Spanish conquistadors

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ended the Inca civilisation 500 years ago.

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Their modern-day descendants, the Quechua,

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are known for making colourful clothing,

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but how do their achievements compare

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with those of their illustrious ancestors?

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I'm heading to village called Chaulloqocha,

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which produces some of the best textiles in this area.

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It's half a day's drive away, high up into the mountains.

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This was where corn was found, potatoes were found,

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tobacco was found, tomatoes were found.

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You can see it's just bursting with life.

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The tribes of the Andes were as skilled with their animals

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as they were with their crops.

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But that was more than five centuries ago.

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I want to find out what things are like today.

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We're at 4,300 metres here, so quite high.

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The tops of the mountains are well and truly shrouded in cloud.

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It's January and the beginning of the wet season in Peru.

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I'm amazed we've been able to drive this far.

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But the final stage of the journey will be on foot.

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My translator Urbano

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has been to Chaulloqocha before and knows the way.

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It feels like there are houses sort of all spread out.

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Chaulloqocha village is not a compact place.

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And here, this is the house where we are going now.

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-This one here, right down...?

-Down there, yeah.

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There are people at the wall expecting us.

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I think they are waiting for us.

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I can hear giggling.

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KATE LAUGHS

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THEY GIGGLE

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Look at this. It's immaculately neat.

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-Alhandrina.

-Alhandrina.

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-Hola.

-Hola. Buenos dias.

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I'm going to be living with Alhandrina, her son, Augustine,

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and the rest of their extended family

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in their two-roomed, thatched house.

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The family depend on one crop, potatoes.

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And on one animal, alpacas.

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They are extraordinary-looking animals.

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They look like they've been put together

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from sort of different parts of different animals.

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Alpacas, like llamas, are closely related to camels.

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They were the foundation of the Inca empire

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and they're still prized for their wool-like fibre.

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How many alpacas do your family have?

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Beautiful! How many days old is that?

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One day only.

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Are any more of the herd pregnant?

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What is a baby alpaca called? Is it a lamb?

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So it is literally little alpaca.

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Alpaca cucha? Alpaca cucha.

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But not all is well with the baby alpaca.

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It turns out it's actually sick.

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It's having trouble breathing,

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but Augustine says there's nothing he can do to help it.

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The family have very kindly lent me this room to sleep in.

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It is a bedroom, but it's also clearly a storeroom.

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Up here, there are huge amounts of sacks

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which I think might all have alpaca fibre in.

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Piles of clothes, cooking pots.

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The bed is sort of squeezed in,

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but er...it's sort of...

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well, comfortable enough, if you like lumps.

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But the thing I love most about this room is its unique decoration.

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When I first came in here,

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I made the mistake of looking up.

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And in the rafters is a dead cat.

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There's a slightly strange smell in here, it has to be said.

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Night-night.

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LAUGHTER

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As well as their alpacas,

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the family look after some smaller animals.

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Guinea pigs sleep in holes by the fire

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and have free run of the house during the day.

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GIGGLING

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They're sort of like a four-legged recycling unit.

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Potatoes and vegetable peelings go to the guinea pigs.

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There's some bad news.

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The baby alpaca I saw yesterday didn't make it.

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Augustine is going to butcher it straightaway.

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We're so squeamish about this sort of thing in western society,

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and yet here's a little girl aged three or four helping her father.

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Nothing is wasted.

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The hide will be sold and the meat eaten.

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More than half of baby alpacas die here.

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Foxes and birds of prey are a threat,

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but the cold, wet weather is the biggest killer.

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Augustine is going to shear some alpacas

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in a special enclosure at the top of the ridge.

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What I think we're doing is, er...

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driving the alpacas up to a corral,

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a sort of stone enclosure on the top of that mountain.

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KATE LAUGHS

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It's quite wet, it's quite slippery, and it's quite steep.

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It's quite inspiring to see the whole family out here.

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Grandmother, parents, children.

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Way up there is a little girl who can't be more than six.

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And I feel like I'm going to have to call an emergency helicopter in a minute.

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It's exhausting. Come on, you lot.

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The alpacas are driven into the corral, ready for shearing.

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After our long climb, it's time for some refreshment, Andean style.

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OK.

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Why do you chew this?

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It doesn't taste of much.

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It sort of tastes of eating a hedge, really.

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And now I'm probably not talking very well

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because the whole of my mouth is tingling and my tongue's gone numb.

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The male alpacas are taking full advantage of our coca break.

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So when the alpacas make this noise...

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KATE IMITATES AN ALPACA

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..what does it mean?

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OK.

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They're happy. It's a content noise.

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THEY LAUGH

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There doesn't seem to be any kind of breeding system.

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The alpacas are just left to get on with it.

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Augustine has selected an animal for shearing.

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Oh, it won't be that bad!

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When you feel this fibre... Oh!

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I got told off for referring to it as wool. It is fibre.

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And it actually does feel very different

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from the wool that you might get from a sheep.

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Alpaca fibre is up to seven times warmer than sheep's wool.

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Along with cashmere from goats,

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it's one of the world's most prized natural threads.

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I have never seen shearing done

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with what is effectively a kitchen knife.

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Alpaca fibre has been keeping the people of the Andes warm

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for thousands of years.

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The Incas were obsessed with it

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and valued it more than gold and silver.

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It's quite easy to see how the Incas built their empire on this, really.

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It has the feel of absolute luxury.

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There seems to be an enormous amount of fibre coming off

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what is actually quite a small animal.

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The family are going keep these fleeces

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to make clothes and handicrafts.

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But most of their fibre will be sold to collectors,

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middlemen who buy as much fibre as they can

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and sell it on to Peru's processing factories.

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How many soles does the collector pay per pound?

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An average-sized fleece like this

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would earn Augustine and his wife Demesia about £8.

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It doesn't sound very much for a lot of work.

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Can you make enough money from your alpacas

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to support the whole family?

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Fibre from the family's herd of 60 animals

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earns them £160 at most every year.

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There are many mouths to feed and times are hard.

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It's about 5:30 in the morning.

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So we're just taking the sprouts off some potatoes.

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There are guinea pigs running around and a cat by the fire.

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It's a very cosy domestic scene.

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Alhandrina makes a shocking discovery.

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That one doesn't look so good!

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Alhandrina was fattening this guinea pig up,

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ready for a special meal.

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I know we think of guinea pigs as pets,

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but here, every now and then, they think,

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"Right, it's time for a roast," and, er...kill one.

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So they're sort of much-loved,

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as you can see, and kept beautifully,

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but very much as livestock, rather than as a pet.

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LAUGHTER

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The women are going to process the alpaca fibre.

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After picking out dirt and other impurities,

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the next task is to spin the individual hairs into a thread.

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Alhandrina, did you teach all your daughters how to spin?

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Alhandrina wants to teach me the basics.

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I'll be punished if I make a mistake.

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KATE LAUGHS

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If I get it wrong?

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So I spin like that?

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This process transforms this kind of fluffy rope

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into a much thinner thread

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which can then be woven.

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Mine's a little bit lumpy.

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Keep it...? Keep pulling it?

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THEY LAUGH

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Raw fibre may not earn them very much,

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but after the women have made it into textiles,

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they can sell it for a great deal more.

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I'm not doing very well, am I? You need six hands!

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THEY LAUGH

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Our snack of boiled potatoes is interrupted

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when Augustine sees one of the alpacas

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having trouble giving birth.

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It's a large baby, and it looks like it's stuck.

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The family only have a few adult alpacas,

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so the mother is the priority.

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With a lamb, I know what to do. With an alpaca, I don't.

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All right, all right, all right.

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Good girl, good girl.

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Well done! Good girl.

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Good girl, good girl. Good girl!

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Good girl!

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Good girl!

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Wow! That's a lot of leg to come out.

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So much bigger than lambs.

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And actually, an alpaca isn't much bigger than a sheep.

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SHOUTING

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They're worried that she may have some sort of infection.

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They have asked our director to pee in a bottle,

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which he has duly done because he's a very well-behaved man.

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And I think...someone is going to come... There they are.

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They're going to use...

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..the pee as an antiseptic.

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People can't afford medicine up here,

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so they make do with whatever they can get their hands on.

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Augustine decides to name the baby James, after our director.

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We leave him to bond with his mother and head back to the house.

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It may have been a traumatic birth, but they both look OK.

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The family are cooking a feast to welcome me into their home.

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And there's a special treat on the menu.

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So...I can safely say I've never eaten guinea pig before.

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Mm!

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And I can tell you, and I'm sorry to all of you

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who've got a beloved pet guinea pig at home,

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it's absolutely delicious!

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It's kind of like dark chicken meat.

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Yum!

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All of those mothers fed up of cleaning out

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your children's guinea pigs, cook 'em!

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Oh! Delicioso!

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LAUGHTER

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Peru is modernising fast.

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And even the most remote communities are beginning to change.

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Basic sanitation was put in a year ago

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and electricity will soon follow.

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But this is a marginal existence.

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Up to three million Peruvians

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still live from hand to mouth up in the Andes.

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We're going to check on the baby alpaca, James,

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that was born yesterday.

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Oh, there he is!

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KATE LAUGHS

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James looks in great shape.

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Augustine thinks he's got a good chance of making it.

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But despite such new additions,

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Augustine has very little land,

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so he's unable to increase the size of his herd.

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Improvements in health care

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means more of the village's children are reaching adulthood.

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Each family's grazing land

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is being divided into smaller and smaller plots,

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which are getting more and more degraded.

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Lack of space is not the only problem Augustine faces.

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Are all your animals pure alpacas?

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Llamas and alpacas can mate,

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and their offspring's fibre is coarser

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and less valuable than a pure-bred alpaca's.

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Augustine has so few animals, they are inbred, too,

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and more vulnerable to bad weather, disease and parasites.

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Trying to make ends meet with just a few poor quality animals

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is too much of a struggle for many young herders.

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Thousands are leaving their villages,

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preferring to take their chances in towns and cities.

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The women gather on the hillside and set up their looms.

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The Incas wove alpaca fibre

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into some of the finest cloth the world has ever seen.

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And there are echoes of their skill in Alhandrina's work.

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I mean, don't those look like

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absolute classic Inca designs?

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Definitely an alpaca.

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The family will keep a few of the scarves and shawls they make,

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but they hope that most will eventually be sold on,

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bringing in much-needed cash.

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Do you worry that young people being born in the village here

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will leave and go and work in towns,

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that they will leave this traditional life?

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I'm really enjoying getting to know this family.

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But I sense that I've come to Chaulloqocha at a pivotal time,

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after which nothing will ever be the same.

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Not everyone in the village is struggling financially.

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On the ridge above the family's house

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lives Augustine's cousin, Tomas Puma.

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Buenos dias.

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Buenos dias. Buenos dias.

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Me llamo Katia.

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Me llamo Tomas.

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Nice to meet you. Me gusta.

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A few years ago, Tomas made the two-day journey to town

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to try to get a better price for his fibre.

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Tomas's fibre, like Augustine's,

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was from llama alpaca hybrids.

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The competition was from pure alpacas,

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worth much more per pound.

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Tomas's eyes were opened.

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He became a collector himself,

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buying fleeces from other herders and selling them on for a profit.

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Business is good, and he's now made enough money

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to start buying in better quality alpacas.

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Tomas paid £300 for this pure-bred male.

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Five times what a normal alpaca is worth.

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It is like a completely different animal.

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This feels almost like velvet.

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And if I were an Inca princess,

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I'd want to wear fibre from this one.

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A llama alpaca hybrid's fibre

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is worth only six soles, £1.50 per pound.

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If you sell the fibre from this animal,

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how many soles per pound for this fibre?

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12 soles.

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So double what the usual alpacas in this area get.

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Tomas has a simple breeding system.

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Castrating lower quality males

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so only his very best get to mate.

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It will take him a few years to improve his herd,

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but his eye is fixed firmly on the future.

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I wonder whether really what I'm witnessing

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is the end of the kind of small family farm

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and perhaps the beginning of people like Tomas

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taking over land and taking over livestock.

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And I kind of hate myself for saying this, I hate it,

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it goes against everything I believe in.

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I love the fact that people can still be self-sufficient,

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still be connected to the land,

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but I suspect that these small farms can't really exist any more,

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that they have to be gobbled up

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and become part of a much bigger, more commercial enterprise

0:25:380:25:41

for alpaca herding to survive here in Peru.

0:25:410:25:45

CHILDREN SING

0:25:450:25:48

Back at the house, there's an air of excitement.

0:25:520:25:55

Tonight is a special night for one of the girls.

0:25:550:25:58

I had a bit of a shock.

0:26:060:26:09

Augustine and Demesia asked if I would be godmother

0:26:090:26:14

to their second child,

0:26:140:26:17

who has the rather marvellous name of Mary the Miraculous.

0:26:170:26:22

And I've accepted.

0:26:220:26:24

And so there is a ceremony happening any moment now.

0:26:240:26:28

I'm not quite sure what it involves,

0:26:280:26:30

but it's something to do with hair cutting

0:26:300:26:33

and handing over quite a lot of money.

0:26:330:26:34

Who gets the haircut and who gets the money, I'm not entirely sure,

0:26:340:26:37

but...but I'm really delighted.

0:26:370:26:41

The family has asked one of our translators, Hector,

0:26:410:26:44

to be Mary's godfather.

0:26:440:26:46

-We have a big responsibility.

-Yes.

0:26:460:26:50

-And I am so happy, too.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

0:26:500:26:53

Every lock of hair earns a donation from a godparent

0:26:540:26:57

or one of the family.

0:26:570:26:59

It doesn't take long before little Mary

0:27:120:27:15

is as shorn as one of her father's alpacas.

0:27:150:27:18

Alhandrina wants to sell some fibre.

0:27:290:27:32

She's sent a message to her nephew, Tomas, to come and visit.

0:27:320:27:35

THEY LAUGH

0:27:430:27:45

Alhandrina has made £23.

0:27:580:28:01

But if the fibre was better quality,

0:28:010:28:03

she could have earned twice as much.

0:28:030:28:05

It's clear that Augustine and Demesia face many challenges.

0:28:160:28:20

What do they think the future holds for their family?

0:28:200:28:23

They have two options.

0:28:450:28:47

Stay and improve their alpaca herd

0:28:470:28:50

or look for work in a town.

0:28:500:28:52

With such a low income,

0:29:060:29:08

it's going to be a struggle to get things started.

0:29:080:29:11

But Augustine has one thing in his favour.

0:29:110:29:13

A strong, skilled family.

0:29:130:29:16

With their support, he might just be able to make a go of it.

0:29:160:29:19

It's time for me to leave.

0:29:230:29:24

Augustine is determined to make more money from his fibre.

0:29:270:29:30

But I want to know what he's up against,

0:29:300:29:33

so I'm going to check out the competition.

0:29:330:29:35

It doesn't take long

0:29:410:29:42

before dirt tracks give way to Tarmac roads.

0:29:420:29:45

In one minute, you can be in a community

0:29:470:29:50

that feels completely cut off from the outside world,

0:29:500:29:53

where there's no electricity,

0:29:530:29:55

people are really living on potatoes and guinea pig,

0:29:550:29:58

and within an hour, be in quite a sophisticated town.

0:29:580:30:02

Tarmacked roads, electricity, internet.

0:30:020:30:04

Peru has one of the world's fastest-growing economies.

0:30:070:30:10

Industry is booming and hundreds of thousands of people

0:30:100:30:14

are leaving villages like Chaulloqocha every year

0:30:140:30:17

to work in towns and cities.

0:30:170:30:19

Most end up in low-paid, menial jobs, living in shanty towns.

0:30:190:30:24

If Augustine and Demesia were to leave their mountain home,

0:30:240:30:28

this is the kind of life they could expect.

0:30:280:30:30

We're heading back up into the Andes,

0:30:330:30:35

but this is a very different landscape.

0:30:350:30:39

There are no villages or potato fields.

0:30:390:30:41

Instead, we seem to be driving through one great big ranch.

0:30:410:30:47

We're at nearly 5,000 metres here

0:30:470:30:50

and I'm going to meet a man who is right at the top of his game.

0:30:500:30:53

In this area of Peru,

0:30:530:30:55

he probably has one of the finest herds of alpacas.

0:30:550:30:58

-Buenos dias, Hugo.

-Buenos dias.

0:31:020:31:04

How are you? Todo bien?

0:31:040:31:06

-Buenos dias. Todo bien.

-Good, good.

0:31:060:31:09

The animals in Chaulloqocha were a hotchpotch of different colours,

0:31:090:31:13

sizes and breeds.

0:31:130:31:15

But Hugo Yucra's are like a herd of clones.

0:31:150:31:18

These are all Suri alpacas.

0:31:190:31:22

A rare breed that produces the finest fibre.

0:31:220:31:25

It's like silk, isn't it?

0:31:250:31:28

It's so fine and...

0:31:280:31:31

Oh, it's just... It's beautiful, isn't it?

0:31:330:31:36

I love my family in Chaulloqocha, but, er...

0:31:360:31:40

..the quality of their fibre just simply doesn't come close.

0:31:420:31:46

While Tomas spends a few hundred pounds on new blood,

0:31:460:31:49

Hugo is prepared to invest thousands.

0:31:490:31:52

These are all females.

0:31:540:31:56

The males are kept in a different area of the ranch.

0:31:560:31:59

This morning, Hugo wants to separate his best animals.

0:31:590:32:02

This one here? Oh, yeah.

0:32:040:32:06

How difficult can it be to spot a thoroughbred from a second-rater?

0:32:060:32:10

Oh! Hugo, I like that one.

0:32:110:32:15

That's the one!

0:32:150:32:17

Good catch. What do you think? Good?

0:32:200:32:23

Right, next one.

0:32:240:32:26

This one. That's the one!

0:32:260:32:28

Bueno?

0:32:280:32:30

I could get used to this!

0:32:340:32:36

What I'm going for is really what I go for when I pick a racehorse,

0:32:380:32:42

which is a pretty face and a nice bum.

0:32:420:32:44

Although in this case, I'm also looking at the hairstyle.

0:32:440:32:46

What do you think of this one? Is it OK?

0:32:490:32:51

So not so good.

0:32:520:32:54

You see? I thought I was getting the hang of it.

0:32:540:32:56

They might grow lovely wool that's turned into luxury items,

0:33:020:33:06

but there's a filthy side to alpacas.

0:33:060:33:09

And that's when they're in a bad mood

0:33:090:33:11

or they disagree with what you're doing to them...

0:33:110:33:13

Sorry!

0:33:130:33:15

KATE LAUGHS

0:33:150:33:17

..they spit at you.

0:33:170:33:18

And that's exactly what this one's doing to me.

0:33:180:33:21

And it's not just... Stop it!

0:33:210:33:23

Look at me. I'm covered in basically...

0:33:260:33:29

That's come from the depths of their bowels.

0:33:290:33:31

Believe me, it stinks.

0:33:310:33:32

This isn't just a kind of little gob like some yob on a Saturday night,

0:33:320:33:36

this is a full-blown "I hate your guts." Come on. No!

0:33:360:33:41

She needs some manners taught to her, that one.

0:33:420:33:44

We've separated off all of Hugo's top females.

0:33:460:33:50

Now we need to count the rest of the herd.

0:33:500:33:52

Bear with me. This could all go horribly wrong.

0:33:520:33:55

Do I count in Spanish...or English?

0:33:550:33:58

166.

0:34:130:34:14

You made it 164, I made 163.

0:34:140:34:20

THEY LAUGH

0:34:200:34:21

Close.

0:34:220:34:25

Let's go with his. That makes you richer!

0:34:250:34:27

THEY LAUGH

0:34:270:34:30

The top females are much easier to keep track of.

0:34:310:34:34

Thirteen that will be mated with the best males at the end of the month.

0:34:340:34:39

Outside of the corral, Hugo's alpacas are given free range.

0:34:390:34:43

He owns more than 3,000 animals,

0:34:430:34:46

spread out over 3,000 hectares.

0:34:460:34:49

So there's no overcrowding

0:34:490:34:50

or overgrazing on this ranch.

0:34:500:34:53

We drive higher up into the mountains to Hugo's farmhouse.

0:34:550:34:59

His wife and young children live in town a few hours away.

0:34:590:35:04

But Hugo spends much of his time up here.

0:35:040:35:07

He may be a successful breeder,

0:35:070:35:09

but he lives without running water,

0:35:090:35:11

electricity or any home comforts.

0:35:110:35:14

Hugo very kindly has said that we can use this room.

0:35:140:35:18

And as you can see, we've got a table and chairs set up,

0:35:180:35:22

so me and all the crew are eating in here.

0:35:220:35:27

And come night-time, the table will be cleared away

0:35:270:35:31

and we'll all be sleeping in here, as well.

0:35:310:35:33

No dead cats hanging from the rafters.

0:35:350:35:38

Although I hate to say it,

0:35:380:35:39

I think there might be something dead in here.

0:35:390:35:41

I can certainly smell something not too savoury.

0:35:410:35:45

(It'll be fine.

0:35:450:35:47

(That's what you say when you're being stoic.)

0:35:470:35:49

Hugo doesn't come from a herding background.

0:35:550:35:57

His father was a trader

0:35:570:35:59

who bought alpaca fleeces from highland villages.

0:35:590:36:02

As a boy, Hugo travelled with him

0:36:020:36:04

and began to dream of one day having a herd of his own.

0:36:040:36:09

He realised early on that quality of fibre is everything.

0:36:090:36:13

And he now goes to extreme lengths to get it.

0:36:130:36:15

Hugo puts plastic capes on his top alpacas

0:36:190:36:22

to protect their fibre from the elements.

0:36:220:36:25

This one doesn't seem very happy with its new look.

0:36:250:36:27

SQUEALING

0:36:270:36:30

They do seem to be very highly strung.

0:36:300:36:33

Kind of constantly making a fuss about something.

0:36:330:36:36

Everything's a drama and I'm going to scream the place down

0:36:360:36:39

until someone either leaves me alone

0:36:390:36:41

or does what I want them to do.

0:36:410:36:44

They're kind of like spoilt children.

0:36:440:36:48

And when they get really angry, they then just sit down.

0:36:480:36:51

It's like having a tantrum.

0:36:510:36:54

..It's not so bad.

0:36:540:36:56

They're putting a nice coat on you. Be quiet.

0:36:560:36:58

Yeah, yeah.

0:36:580:37:00

Hugo's animals may be some of the best in southern Peru,

0:37:010:37:04

but amazingly, even they cannot match the quality of fibre

0:37:040:37:09

that has been found in Inca burial sites.

0:37:090:37:12

There's some bad weather blowing in,

0:37:140:37:16

so I head for my sleeping bag and an early night.

0:37:160:37:19

Although it was freezing cold outside, it was quite warm in here.

0:37:300:37:34

Mud walls obviously work quite well with insulation.

0:37:360:37:39

I did wear absolutely every item of clothing that I'm wearing now.

0:37:390:37:43

Hugo thought it would snow last night,

0:37:450:37:47

so he moved the baby alpacas and their mums

0:37:470:37:50

into a specially built nursery.

0:37:500:37:52

But shelter's not the only thing he gives them.

0:37:520:37:55

What is this drink you're giving them?

0:37:560:37:58

Iodine stops her navel getting infected.

0:38:140:38:17

And she'll also be vaccinated against disease and parasites.

0:38:170:38:21

Newborns are very vulnerable to the cold,

0:38:210:38:23

so Hugo's giving this one some extra protection.

0:38:230:38:26

A-ha!

0:38:260:38:28

I tell you, I wouldn't have minded one of those capes last night.

0:38:280:38:31

Bueno!

0:38:380:38:40

In Chaulloqocha, as many as six out of ten of babies don't make it.

0:38:420:38:46

Hugo's care and attention means half as many die here,

0:38:460:38:51

even though conditions are harsher.

0:38:510:38:53

His herd is growing.

0:38:530:38:55

And their fleeces are becoming famous throughout southern Peru.

0:38:550:38:59

It's clear from meeting Hugo that he has his sights set high,

0:39:020:39:08

but what's also clear is the great gap

0:39:080:39:11

between what Hugo is doing

0:39:110:39:14

and what Tomas and Augustine are able to do.

0:39:140:39:18

Hugo and Augustine may be worlds apart,

0:39:200:39:23

but their fibre ends up in the same place, Peru's processing factories.

0:39:230:39:28

And that's where I'm going now.

0:39:280:39:30

We're going to leave the mountains and the farms,

0:39:310:39:34

head for the big city of Arequipa,

0:39:340:39:37

which is really where everything happens.

0:39:370:39:40

Where all the decisions, the key decisions are made.

0:39:400:39:44

Strategically located between the herders in the mountains

0:39:460:39:50

and the coastal ports,

0:39:500:39:51

Arequipa is the world capital of the alpaca industry.

0:39:510:39:55

The streets are lined with shops selling alpaca clothing.

0:40:000:40:04

And the industrial parks are busy seven days a week

0:40:040:40:07

turning alpaca fibre into products for global export.

0:40:070:40:11

The Michell Corporation

0:40:140:40:15

is the largest alpaca processor in the world.

0:40:150:40:19

Every year, up to five million tonnes of fibre

0:40:190:40:22

is driven down to this warehouse

0:40:220:40:24

from collection centres in the Andes.

0:40:240:40:27

Each of these bags are what we call in Spanish "quintal".

0:40:270:40:31

-It means 100 pounds.

-Right.

-46.2 kilos.

0:40:310:40:36

CEO Derek Michell is taking me on a whistle-stop tour

0:40:370:40:41

to show me how this raw material

0:40:410:40:43

is transformed into top quality yarns and textiles.

0:40:430:40:47

Impurities, tangled fibres

0:40:500:40:52

and coarse hairs are removed at every stage.

0:40:520:40:56

-So it's getting cleaner and cleaner all the time.

-That's right.

0:40:570:41:01

I wish I'd known, I'd have brought all my laundry with me.

0:41:010:41:04

That would be good, that would be good.

0:41:040:41:07

Covering an area of about 15 football pitches,

0:41:140:41:18

it's a huge operation.

0:41:180:41:20

I think Augustine and Alhandrina would be amazed

0:41:220:41:27

that their little bag of fibre

0:41:270:41:30

ends up in a place like this.

0:41:300:41:33

This is the beginning of the spinning factory.

0:41:390:41:41

And this is what comes out.

0:41:410:41:44

Suddenly, that's looking almost more recognisable as a yarn.

0:41:440:41:48

As a yarn.

0:41:480:41:49

The machines are mimicking

0:41:490:41:51

what people have been doing by hand for thousands of years.

0:41:510:41:56

So what the ladies used to do by stretching and twisting,

0:41:560:42:00

is what this machine is doing.

0:42:000:42:02

-That's what it's doing.

-Exactly.

0:42:020:42:04

Yarns are woven into textiles

0:42:070:42:09

and textiles are then sewn into garments.

0:42:090:42:12

-I've got a very small head.

-It doesn't look bad.

0:42:130:42:15

That's called a chullo. That's a Peruvian chullo.

0:42:160:42:18

-Right.

-There you go.

0:42:180:42:20

-Yeah, adorable.

-It doesn't look that bad.

0:42:200:42:23

It's kind of amazing that up in Chaulloqocha,

0:42:230:42:26

you've got somebody shearing their alpaca with a kitchen knife...

0:42:260:42:30

-Exactly.

-..and it could end up looking like this.

0:42:300:42:33

That's right, yeah.

0:42:330:42:35

Peru makes the majority of the world's alpaca products.

0:42:350:42:39

And a large proportion goes to China.

0:42:390:42:41

Being such a big consumer, it's no surprise

0:42:410:42:44

that China wants to start producing its own alpaca fibre.

0:42:440:42:49

We've been hearing a lot that already there are some alpacas in China.

0:42:490:42:53

And that's something that does worry us as a business.

0:42:530:42:56

If they were to grow in animals big time,

0:42:560:43:00

we could start winding down somehow in Peru.

0:43:000:43:04

As well as China, Australia, New Zealand and the USA

0:43:050:43:09

have their own top quality herds.

0:43:090:43:11

Peru's position as the number one alpaca producer

0:43:110:43:15

is by no means certain.

0:43:150:43:16

We're back where we started, the sorting room.

0:43:200:43:23

These ladies grade all the fibre that passes through the warehouse

0:43:230:43:27

using skills handed down from generation to generation.

0:43:270:43:31

-This is really the kind of key process.

-Absolutely.

0:43:320:43:36

If it wasn't for these ladies,

0:43:360:43:37

all the alpaca would be mixed into one single lot

0:43:370:43:40

-and shipped out as an average fibre.

-Right.

0:43:400:43:42

The women sort the fibre according to its thickness,

0:43:430:43:46

which is measured in millionths of a metre, or microns.

0:43:460:43:50

The finest fibre will be made into clothing,

0:43:500:43:53

the coarsest into carpets.

0:43:530:43:56

The whole basis of it is here.

0:43:560:43:57

If these ladies would not know how to sort,

0:43:570:44:01

there's just no machine that could even come close to it.

0:44:010:44:04

So Maria is the highest paid woman in Peru?

0:44:040:44:08

Oh, she's definitely the highest paid woman.

0:44:080:44:10

At least she's the most appreciated, let me tell you that!

0:44:100:44:12

THEY LAUGH

0:44:120:44:14

OK, I've got a little test for you.

0:44:140:44:17

This is some of the fibre Augustine sheared up in Chaulloqocha.

0:44:170:44:21

Is it worth anything to a processor like Derek?

0:44:210:44:24

It's a decent fleece.

0:44:260:44:28

There'll be parts which are between 20 and 22 microns.

0:44:280:44:31

So that's pretty good quality, really.

0:44:310:44:34

22 microns is four times finer than a human hair.

0:44:340:44:39

It's not top of the range, but it's certainly good enough

0:44:390:44:42

for a scarf or a shawl.

0:44:420:44:44

-I sort of expected you to rubbish this fibre.

-No, no.

0:44:440:44:48

So what you're telling me is that the traditional herders

0:44:480:44:53

still produce product that you can use and has a value.

0:44:530:44:56

Oh, yes, absolutely.

0:44:560:44:58

And would you be able to say roughly the percentage of fibre you process

0:44:580:45:04

that comes from the communities compared to the breeders?

0:45:040:45:09

I mean...

0:45:090:45:10

Oh! It would be 95% to 5% probably.

0:45:100:45:14

So, you need communities like Chaulloqocha?

0:45:140:45:17

-Of course we do!

-They're vital to you.

0:45:170:45:19

Of course we need their fibre. Absolutely.

0:45:190:45:21

We would like them to have a better fibre, that's the only thing.

0:45:210:45:25

To encourage herders to improve their animals,

0:45:250:45:29

Derek has started buying directly from them,

0:45:290:45:31

cutting out middlemen and paying a premium for fine fibre.

0:45:310:45:35

You've cheered me up. I want to run back up the hill to Chaulloqocha

0:45:350:45:38

and tell them, "This is really good!"

0:45:380:45:41

This is what we're trying to do.

0:45:410:45:43

We're really trying to get as much penetration

0:45:430:45:45

between the farmer and the industry

0:45:450:45:47

to make sure that we give the right messages,

0:45:470:45:50

that they receive the right messages

0:45:500:45:52

and hopefully with that, keep the farming of animals going.

0:45:520:45:57

Because if they don't...

0:45:570:45:58

We're out of business, we're out of business.

0:45:580:46:01

Every single person who works in this is gone.

0:46:010:46:03

Absolutely. Absolutely. Yep.

0:46:030:46:06

It's such a relief to be told that Augustine's fibre has a value.

0:46:060:46:11

But I now realise that the stakes are even higher than I'd imagined

0:46:110:46:15

and the whole of Peru's alpaca industry is on a knife edge.

0:46:150:46:19

But there is hope.

0:46:220:46:23

Before I leave Peru, Derek wants me to visit Mallkini Ranch,

0:46:230:46:27

the Michell Company's alpaca research centre.

0:46:270:46:30

Manager Moises Asparrin has one objective,

0:46:320:46:35

to improve Peru's alpaca herd as quickly as possible.

0:46:350:46:40

Breeding is therefore top of the agenda.

0:46:400:46:42

The females that Moises said are ready for breeding

0:46:570:47:00

have been brought into their own private little boudoirs.

0:47:000:47:04

And the alpacas that are running around me now are all males

0:47:040:47:08

and they've got numbers on that will correspond to their females.

0:47:080:47:12

And so number 10 here is looking for his number 10 female.

0:47:120:47:16

I've found number 10's girlfriend

0:47:210:47:24

and I'm going to try and get him to go there.

0:47:240:47:27

Aqui, aqui!

0:47:320:47:33

Oh, there we go! There you go!

0:47:330:47:35

Oh, now, look at that! It's love at first sight.

0:47:370:47:39

The noise an alpaca male makes during mating is known as orgling.

0:47:460:47:51

Apparently, it encourages the female to ovulate,

0:47:510:47:54

helping to ensure conception.

0:47:540:47:56

Moises wants to produce babies with the finest fibre.

0:47:590:48:03

But this system will also help him

0:48:030:48:05

to weed out males that don't meet the mark.

0:48:050:48:08

Now, it's not looking like the greatest romance in the world

0:48:310:48:35

in number 20's pen.

0:48:350:48:37

Both of them are looking studiously uninterested in each other.

0:48:370:48:40

But apparently, according to Moises,

0:48:400:48:42

it's not that they don't like each another,

0:48:420:48:44

it's because the male has got performance anxiety,

0:48:440:48:47

so turn away, please.

0:48:470:48:49

There are almost 4,000 alpacas here,

0:48:560:48:59

but each animal is carefully monitored

0:48:590:49:01

and daily reports are fed into a database.

0:49:010:49:04

Moises is following in the footsteps of the Incas,

0:49:040:49:07

whose highly organised, large-scale herding system

0:49:070:49:11

was fundamental to their success.

0:49:110:49:14

But there's one thing Moises has access to which the Incas did not.

0:49:140:49:18

The latest breeding techniques.

0:49:180:49:21

These guys are up against really a race against time.

0:49:210:49:25

They want to improve the alpaca herds.

0:49:250:49:28

They want Peru to be back on the map

0:49:280:49:31

of producing some of the finest alpaca fibre in the world.

0:49:310:49:35

And to do that, artificial insemination

0:49:350:49:37

is going to be a crucial tool in their box.

0:49:370:49:40

Artificial insemination enables the genes of the very best animals

0:49:410:49:45

to be passed on with clinical efficiency.

0:49:450:49:48

It's been used commercially in sheep and other livestock for many years,

0:49:480:49:52

but it's still being tried out with alpacas.

0:49:520:49:55

The first step is to see

0:49:550:49:56

whether the potential mothers are ready to breed.

0:49:560:49:59

Waiting patiently outside is a male alpaca.

0:50:000:50:05

Now, he's castrated, so he can't get any of these females pregnant,

0:50:050:50:09

but what he can do is get them all roused up and excited.

0:50:090:50:13

If the female accepts the male's advances,

0:50:130:50:16

she's injected with a hormone to make sure she ovulates.

0:50:160:50:20

If she refuses him, she'll go back into the herd.

0:50:200:50:23

Crikey! She was very receptive.

0:50:240:50:26

There's a terrible expression in English, which is "gagging for it".

0:50:280:50:31

Professor Willy Vivanco

0:50:310:50:33

is a world-renowned animal reproduction expert.

0:50:330:50:36

He's spent much of his career working with sheep

0:50:360:50:40

and he's now trying to perfect the technique with alpacas.

0:50:400:50:43

Just when he's getting to the fun part, you pull him off.

0:50:430:50:47

You're a hard man!

0:50:470:50:50

We just use him for the very short space.

0:50:500:50:53

Enough to do the stimulation

0:50:530:50:56

and then he has to go to another female and so on,

0:50:560:50:59

so he never ejaculates actually.

0:50:590:51:02

-No. No. He just fluffs.

-Exactly.

0:51:020:51:04

KATE LAUGHS

0:51:040:51:06

The mothers are ready.

0:51:070:51:08

Now for the fathers.

0:51:080:51:10

Once again, there's very little romance involved.

0:51:100:51:13

-This is the artificial vagina.

-Mm-hm.

0:51:150:51:18

But the alpacas will take up to 20 minutes copulating,

0:51:180:51:22

so we use the electrical blanket to keep it warm.

0:51:220:51:27

The male will be fooled into thinking he's inside a female

0:51:290:51:32

and will ejaculate into a glass tube.

0:51:320:51:35

One of Mallkini's finest males

0:51:360:51:38

is introduced to some receptive females.

0:51:380:51:41

The switch is made at the crucial moment.

0:51:410:51:43

Now we have to wait. And wait.

0:51:460:51:49

Because that's what a female alpaca has to do.

0:51:490:51:51

The now-familiar sound of orgling reverberates around the room.

0:51:540:51:58

With ruminants like the bull

0:52:030:52:05

or the male goat or the ram,

0:52:050:52:08

-it's seconds.

-Right.

0:52:080:52:11

They get stimulated and then they jump

0:52:110:52:14

and ejaculate just in one thrust.

0:52:140:52:17

He's standing up. Is that...?

0:52:180:52:21

That's why I said to you that

0:52:210:52:24

these guys are not on the job straight.

0:52:240:52:27

But they're tired and they...

0:52:270:52:30

They want to get up, they go and get a beer,

0:52:300:52:31

they come back, they check the newspaper.

0:52:310:52:34

THEY LAUGH

0:52:340:52:36

Never ever fall for an alpaca.

0:52:390:52:41

He's done it?

0:52:430:52:44

He's done it? OK. Let's bring it down.

0:52:440:52:46

-Straight to the lab?

-Straight to the lab.

0:52:460:52:48

After so much effort, I have to say,

0:52:480:52:51

the result is a bit of an anticlimax.

0:52:510:52:54

Is that it?

0:52:540:52:56

You wait a long time for not very much.

0:52:560:52:58

The semen is diluted to make it go further.

0:53:020:53:05

In this way, a top male can father many more babies in a year

0:53:050:53:09

than by natural mating.

0:53:090:53:11

The first female is blindfolded in a rather rudimentary way

0:53:130:53:17

to stop her panicking and spitting during the insemination.

0:53:170:53:21

There is something fairly discomforting, I suppose,

0:53:220:53:25

about seeing an alpaca with a plastic bag on its head.

0:53:250:53:28

It's one of those things, you know,

0:53:280:53:30

you weigh up discomfort to an animal,

0:53:300:53:34

certainly not cruelty, but discomfort,

0:53:340:53:36

but if this going to make the difference to the species

0:53:360:53:40

and to the future of the alpaca fibre industry,

0:53:400:53:43

then perhaps it's a short bit of discomfort

0:53:430:53:46

that will have much longer-term benefits.

0:53:460:53:48

Willy is trying out two ways of insemination.

0:53:500:53:54

This is the simplest, where the semen is squirted into her cervix

0:53:540:53:58

using, well, something rather like a turkey baster.

0:53:580:54:01

That's the whole thing done.

0:54:030:54:05

She's going to feel cheated by that.

0:54:050:54:07

It should have taken at least 25 minutes.

0:54:070:54:09

The next method is more complicated,

0:54:110:54:13

so this animal has been given a local anaesthetic.

0:54:130:54:16

The semen is injected directly into her uterus.

0:54:160:54:20

The team will compare the effectiveness of each procedure.

0:54:200:54:24

It really is early days.

0:54:240:54:26

The last time they tried this, they only had a 25% success rate.

0:54:260:54:30

Moises is convinced that once perfected,

0:54:320:54:34

this will eventually help to save alpaca herding

0:54:340:54:38

in Peru's poorest villages.

0:54:380:54:40

Though Augustine couldn't afford a breeding male,

0:54:490:54:52

he could afford the semen from one.

0:54:520:54:55

But the very best alpacas can fetch tens of thousands of pounds

0:54:550:54:59

on the global market.

0:54:590:55:01

And I find it hard to believe that all of this

0:55:010:55:03

is being done only for the good of Peru.

0:55:030:55:07

Mallkini is a business. It's funded by a business.

0:55:070:55:10

It has to make money.

0:55:100:55:11

Do you really think this can be a reality?

0:55:110:55:14

The Michell Corporation is not financing Mallkini

0:55:320:55:35

out of the goodness of its heart.

0:55:350:55:37

It needs Augustine and the tens of thousands

0:55:370:55:39

of small herders like him to thrive, not fail.

0:55:390:55:43

But what about Augustine's biggest problem, the lack of good pasture?

0:55:430:55:48

Moises has been working on that, too.

0:55:480:55:50

This field has been planted with a mix of special grass

0:55:500:55:54

and alfalfa, a fast-growing, pea-like plant.

0:55:540:55:58

OK.

0:55:580:55:59

This field can support fifteen times as many alpacas as normal pasture.

0:56:100:56:15

Though it costs £30 a year to plant,

0:56:150:56:18

it would transform the fortunes of Augustine and other small herders.

0:56:180:56:24

Alfalfa is particularly good for pregnant and nursing mothers.

0:56:240:56:27

We seem to have walked into a mini baby boom.

0:56:290:56:32

Though I still find it incredible that no-one in Peru

0:57:060:57:09

has been able to match the Inca herders,

0:57:090:57:11

I get the feeling it's only a matter of time

0:57:110:57:14

before Moises surpasses even their achievements.

0:57:140:57:17

Mallkini is an impressive set-up.

0:57:190:57:22

But can it improve things quickly enough

0:57:220:57:24

to help families like Augustine's?

0:57:240:57:27

It's clear that Peru has the knowledge,

0:57:280:57:32

has the expertise and has the animals

0:57:320:57:35

to continue to be THE major player

0:57:350:57:38

in the alpaca industry throughout the world.

0:57:380:57:41

But I think Peru needs Augustine and Demesia to be productive.

0:57:420:57:48

It doesn't need its cities to swell any more,

0:57:480:57:50

it needs the high Andes to be able to participate

0:57:500:57:55

in a real and tangible way

0:57:550:57:57

in an industry that they are rightly and should be proud of.

0:57:570:58:02

As Peru fights to preserve the future of its alpaca industry,

0:58:020:58:07

I hope it manages to keep hold of some of its traditions.

0:58:070:58:11

Preserving the best of its old ways

0:58:110:58:13

while embracing much-needed new ones, too.

0:58:130:58:16

They seem quite keen to get off the truck!

0:58:180:58:20

Next time, I travel to the Australian outback

0:58:200:58:23

and experience shepherding on an epic scale.

0:58:230:58:26

There's some here, Bob, just on the right.

0:58:260:58:29

And I see the science of herding being taken to a whole new level.

0:58:290:58:33

Have I just made a sheep?

0:58:330:58:35

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