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London in the 21st century is a metropolitan, multicultural city. | 0:00:04 | 0:00:08 | |
But as a writer, I'm fascinated by the older London, | 0:00:11 | 0:00:14 | |
the city that was at the heart of a grand imperial project. | 0:00:14 | 0:00:19 | |
There are traces everywhere, | 0:00:19 | 0:00:21 | |
even if many of us have forgotten | 0:00:21 | 0:00:23 | |
what any of these names and events mean. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
For my addition of Artsnight, I want to look at how the British Empire | 0:00:28 | 0:00:31 | |
transformed not only politics and economics in Britain, | 0:00:31 | 0:00:35 | |
but left its lasting imprint | 0:00:35 | 0:00:37 | |
on our literature, our art and our architecture. | 0:00:37 | 0:00:41 | |
By looking at the British Empire through the prism of culture, | 0:00:41 | 0:00:44 | |
one can actually feel what it was like | 0:00:44 | 0:00:46 | |
to be part of the largest empire the world has ever known. | 0:00:46 | 0:00:50 | |
Tate Britain is a building with an imperial past. | 0:00:57 | 0:01:01 | |
The institution was created by Henry Tate, the sugar merchant, | 0:01:01 | 0:01:04 | |
who became incredibly wealthy through overseas trade. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:08 | |
Now, Tate Britain wants to show | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
the close relationship between art and Empire... | 0:01:13 | 0:01:16 | |
..drawing on works and artists from around the world | 0:01:17 | 0:01:20 | |
and across five centuries. | 0:01:20 | 0:01:22 | |
The idea of this exhibition | 0:01:33 | 0:01:35 | |
has been something Tate curators have had in mind for many years. | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
I think discussions about doing an exhibition on art and Empire... | 0:01:39 | 0:01:43 | |
-..10 years we've been discussing this? -A long time. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:47 | |
But there hasn't been the confidence to go ahead with it. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:50 | |
It's a problematic, controversial subject. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:53 | |
Also, would you be in danger of inadvertently celebrating | 0:01:53 | 0:01:57 | |
or endorsing Empire, making an apology for it. | 0:01:57 | 0:02:00 | |
But eventually, we ran out of excuses NOT to do it. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:03 | |
Let's say there's a young person coming to your exhibition. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:07 | |
What would you like him or her to take away from the exhibition? | 0:02:07 | 0:02:10 | |
I'd like the art to lead people to the history | 0:02:10 | 0:02:14 | |
and the context in which these works were produced. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:16 | |
We made a deliberate decision to actually focus on images of people. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:20 | |
The subtitle is "Facing Britain's Imperial Past". | 0:02:20 | 0:02:24 | |
And the idea of facing is not just confronting, | 0:02:24 | 0:02:26 | |
but actually looking at people. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:27 | |
I think the idea of focusing on people gives a very human dimension to this exhibition. | 0:02:27 | 0:02:32 | |
It allows people of all races, cultures, backgrounds, | 0:02:32 | 0:02:35 | |
to look at each other over time and history, | 0:02:35 | 0:02:38 | |
with the idea of understanding where we've got to in the present day. | 0:02:38 | 0:02:43 | |
Each room focuses on a different aspect | 0:02:47 | 0:02:49 | |
of how the Empire has influenced artists. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:51 | |
Some celebrating it, some condemning the imperial project. | 0:02:53 | 0:02:57 | |
One of the things that really interests me | 0:02:59 | 0:03:02 | |
is how the Empire was represented to people back home in Britain. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:05 | |
And one of the ways was to look at a hero. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:09 | |
This is one of the most important paintings, | 0:03:09 | 0:03:11 | |
and it shows General Gordon just moments before his death. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
It was a very grisly end. His head was cut off and put on a spike. | 0:03:15 | 0:03:19 | |
But in the moments before the death, he seems serene, almost contemptuous. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:24 | |
This image was reproduced on an industrial scale | 0:03:24 | 0:03:27 | |
and made Gordon into one of the heroes, a real martyr of Empire. | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
The Guyanese-born artist Hew Locke | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
has a very different take on these imperial heroes. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:44 | |
He radically reinterprets statues of figures like Edward Colston, | 0:03:51 | 0:03:55 | |
a major benefactor of the city of Bristol, | 0:03:55 | 0:03:57 | |
who made much of his fortune through slavery. | 0:03:57 | 0:04:00 | |
It's a statue of a reasonable man. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
He's a thinker, he's coming from the Age of Enlightenment. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:08 | |
It's one of the most attractive statues in Bristol. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
And all that contradicts who the guy was. | 0:04:11 | 0:04:14 | |
I mean, the man was hard-core slave dealer. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:17 | |
And what I've done is I've covered him in | 0:04:17 | 0:04:20 | |
cowrie shells which were used as trading currency for buying slaves. | 0:04:20 | 0:04:25 | |
And I've covered him in cheap jewellery, | 0:04:25 | 0:04:28 | |
alluding to the kind of cheap trinkets | 0:04:28 | 0:04:31 | |
that would have been used in his trade. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:34 | |
There are debates - shall we take the statue down? | 0:04:34 | 0:04:37 | |
Get rid of it completely? | 0:04:37 | 0:04:38 | |
For me, I don't like that, I want this thing to stay there | 0:04:38 | 0:04:42 | |
as some horrible reminder of Bristol's past. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:46 | |
Because it's interesting. If the thing is gone, | 0:04:46 | 0:04:49 | |
there's nothing to have a conversation about. | 0:04:49 | 0:04:51 | |
The final room of the exhibition looks at those modern artists | 0:04:54 | 0:04:57 | |
who engage with the continuing legacy of Empire. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:01 | |
This striking image is created | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
by the Liverpool-based Singh Twins, | 0:05:08 | 0:05:10 | |
who use traditional Indian painting techniques | 0:05:10 | 0:05:14 | |
to reflect 21st-century subjects. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:16 | |
This is an extraordinary picture. | 0:05:22 | 0:05:23 | |
Would you like to say a bit more about it? | 0:05:23 | 0:05:25 | |
It's so busy and there's so much energy and vitality in it. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:28 | |
Well, the painting is inspired by two Victorian works | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
which represent the Indian mutiny. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:34 | |
So it really looks at that issue of what the mutiny... | 0:05:34 | 0:05:37 | |
how it was projected in the Victorian era, | 0:05:37 | 0:05:40 | |
but reassessing that in the light of how the Indians see | 0:05:40 | 0:05:43 | |
that historical event more as a kind of rebellion for freedom | 0:05:43 | 0:05:47 | |
from British domination in India at that time. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:49 | |
There's a positive aspect to the whole legacy of Empire too, | 0:05:49 | 0:05:52 | |
the fact that migration brought with it the influence | 0:05:52 | 0:05:55 | |
of Indian culture generally on British life and culture. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
That's represented around the border with various figures | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
like Monty Panesar and Victoria Beckham | 0:06:01 | 0:06:03 | |
who's depicted wearing a sari, so that's obviously representing | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
the influence of Indian fashion on British fashion. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
So Indians in the world of commerce and sport and media, | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
music industry, fashion, they've all put their stamp on British identity. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:17 | |
Do you think enough people in Britain | 0:06:17 | 0:06:19 | |
are engaged with Britain's imperial past? | 0:06:19 | 0:06:21 | |
I think they're engaged whether they realise it or not. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:24 | |
The moment they go to the local takeaway and eat Indian curry, | 0:06:24 | 0:06:27 | |
-that's the legacy of Empire. -That's right. | 0:06:27 | 0:06:29 | |
But I think formally, no, I don't think something, for example, | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
that's necessarily taught at the school level. | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
And I think it's an important aspect that should be taught in schools | 0:06:35 | 0:06:38 | |
because that period of imperial history, | 0:06:38 | 0:06:40 | |
particularly the link between India and Britain, | 0:06:40 | 0:06:42 | |
is something that connects us all | 0:06:42 | 0:06:44 | |
and I think it helps cultures to understand one another | 0:06:44 | 0:06:47 | |
if you understand what those shared roots and heritages are. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:50 | |
The history of the British Empire is much too often left to textbooks. | 0:06:56 | 0:07:00 | |
But by looking at Empire through the eyes of artists, | 0:07:00 | 0:07:04 | |
this exhibition brings to life forgotten events | 0:07:04 | 0:07:07 | |
in a powerful and haunting manner. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
The Tate Gallery was founded at the height of Britain's imperial power. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:20 | |
But this stretch of the River Thames | 0:07:22 | 0:07:24 | |
marks another, darker legacy of Empire. | 0:07:24 | 0:07:27 | |
On this site, until the mid-19th century, | 0:07:27 | 0:07:30 | |
stood the infamous Millbank prison | 0:07:30 | 0:07:32 | |
from which thousands of convicts were sent to Australia. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:35 | |
I went to meet Peter Carey, the novelist, whose work reveals | 0:07:35 | 0:07:39 | |
so many insights into the experience of colonial Australia. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:43 | |
The very British Cheltenham Literary Festival, where this year | 0:07:49 | 0:07:53 | |
Peter Carey is being presented with a lifetime achievement award. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:58 | |
Now in his 70s, Carey is one of only three authors | 0:07:58 | 0:08:02 | |
to have won the Booker Prize twice. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:04 | |
Peter and I both have a fascination with the history of colonialism. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:10 | |
I began by asking him about how his work reflects | 0:08:10 | 0:08:13 | |
the particularly Australian experience of the British Empire. | 0:08:13 | 0:08:17 | |
I would think that we are really aware that we are settlers. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:22 | |
We are really deeply aware that it's not really our land. | 0:08:22 | 0:08:27 | |
-Sure. -Even some of the more conservative amongst us | 0:08:27 | 0:08:30 | |
really would grant that the indigenous people | 0:08:30 | 0:08:34 | |
actually do know how to live in that land | 0:08:34 | 0:08:37 | |
and that, really, it's a problem, it's a threatening place to us. | 0:08:37 | 0:08:41 | |
You've talked about Australia being almost schizophrenic in some ways, | 0:08:41 | 0:08:46 | |
with respect to their relationship | 0:08:46 | 0:08:48 | |
to the "mother country" as it used to be called. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
Everybody feels second-rate and feels, you know, | 0:08:51 | 0:08:55 | |
the issue that the whole of society | 0:08:55 | 0:08:57 | |
would be marked by the convict stain. | 0:08:57 | 0:09:00 | |
-Yeah. -So, my ancestors are there suffering from that. | 0:09:00 | 0:09:05 | |
At the same time, being totally Anglophile | 0:09:05 | 0:09:09 | |
and totally in love with the Empire, | 0:09:09 | 0:09:11 | |
so my grandfather who never came to this country | 0:09:11 | 0:09:14 | |
-called England home. -Home. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:16 | |
Carey's work involves rethinking the very language used | 0:09:18 | 0:09:22 | |
to express that colonial experience. | 0:09:22 | 0:09:24 | |
The story of the Kelly gang has been featured in countless films. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:29 | |
And Ned Kelly is notorious as an outlaw all over the world. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:32 | |
In his version, Carey constructs | 0:09:32 | 0:09:35 | |
an entirely new voice for this infamous figure. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:38 | |
"I lost my own father at 12 years of age | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
"and know what it is to be raised on lies and silences. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:46 | |
"My dear daughter, you are presently too young | 0:09:46 | 0:09:48 | |
"to understand a word I write. | 0:09:48 | 0:09:50 | |
"But this history is for you and will contain no single lie, | 0:09:50 | 0:09:54 | |
"may I burn in hell if I speak false. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:56 | |
"God willing, I shall live to see you read these words | 0:09:56 | 0:09:59 | |
"to witness your astonishment and see your dark eyes widen | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
"and your jaw drop when you finally comprehend the injustice | 0:10:02 | 0:10:06 | |
"we poor Irish suffered in at this present age." | 0:10:06 | 0:10:09 | |
I was very struck by the fact that, you know, this whole phenomenon | 0:10:09 | 0:10:13 | |
of Ned Kelly, I mean, clearly he was a very violent person. | 0:10:13 | 0:10:17 | |
-Uh-huh. -Well, he's seen... -Uh-huh. | 0:10:17 | 0:10:19 | |
I know it's commonly said he's clearly a violent person. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
-That's right. -But the accounts of his life | 0:10:22 | 0:10:25 | |
and the so-called violence are mostly to do with fist fights, | 0:10:25 | 0:10:28 | |
which I would say, having grown up in a country town, | 0:10:28 | 0:10:32 | |
in Australia, really not... | 0:10:32 | 0:10:34 | |
That's not violence at any particular level at all. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:37 | |
So you're seeing him as an anti-authoritarian, an anti... | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
I mean, what's driving him, in your mind? | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
Oh, the rage at the unfairness of life. | 0:10:43 | 0:10:46 | |
The people who represent the Empire are the police and the judiciary. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:54 | |
And when Ned Kelly hoodwinks the police | 0:10:54 | 0:10:57 | |
-and makes a fool of the police for about a year and a half... -Yeah. | 0:10:57 | 0:11:00 | |
..he is showing the world we might be the convict seed, guys, | 0:11:00 | 0:11:04 | |
but we can be who we want to be. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:06 | |
The novel Jack Maggs sees Carey exploring | 0:11:09 | 0:11:11 | |
the relationship between the colonies and the motherland, | 0:11:11 | 0:11:14 | |
as he daringly rewrites Charles Dickens' Great Expectations, | 0:11:14 | 0:11:19 | |
but this time from the perspective of the convict Magwitch. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
"As the flies began to tease his skin, | 0:11:24 | 0:11:26 | |
"the wretched man would begin to build London in his mind, | 0:11:26 | 0:11:31 | |
"he would build it brick by brick, | 0:11:31 | 0:11:33 | |
"as the horrid double-cat smote the air, | 0:11:33 | 0:11:36 | |
"eddying forth like a storm from hell itself. | 0:11:36 | 0:11:40 | |
"Underneath the scalding sun, | 0:11:40 | 0:11:43 | |
"which burned his flesh as soon as it was mangled, | 0:11:43 | 0:11:47 | |
"Jack Maggs would imagine the long, mellow light of English summer." | 0:11:47 | 0:11:53 | |
Was there a significance in the fact that you picked on Dickens? | 0:11:56 | 0:11:59 | |
Is that something which you thought about | 0:11:59 | 0:12:02 | |
as the arch-imperial enemy, if you like? | 0:12:02 | 0:12:04 | |
Because there was a time when Dickens was just thrust down people's throats in British schools. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
I sort of escaped all that process. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:11 | |
I didn't have any personal animosity against Dickens. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
But, you know, it was a typically sort of rash | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
and rather reckless thing to do on my behalf, | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
and I do remember, having written it, | 0:12:19 | 0:12:22 | |
coming in from Heathrow in a taxi, and going, "Oh, what have I done?" | 0:12:22 | 0:12:27 | |
-You know... -You've taken on the whole British Empire. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
In his novel Oscar And Lucinda, | 0:12:33 | 0:12:34 | |
Carey explores the complexities of the colonial psyche | 0:12:34 | 0:12:37 | |
through the story of two Australian settlers | 0:12:37 | 0:12:40 | |
and a misguided bet. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:42 | |
The novel's enduring image, | 0:12:42 | 0:12:45 | |
captured in the 1997 film, | 0:12:45 | 0:12:47 | |
is the transportation of a glass church through the outback | 0:12:47 | 0:12:50 | |
and up the Bellinger River. | 0:12:50 | 0:12:52 | |
I had this notion which is like a political cartoon almost, | 0:12:53 | 0:12:57 | |
it's a glass church floating up a river, | 0:12:57 | 0:12:59 | |
filled with Christian stories through a landscape of... | 0:12:59 | 0:13:01 | |
-So that's where the novel starts, with that image. -So it's not like... | 0:13:01 | 0:13:06 | |
-You had a master plan of... -I knew what the story was going to be | 0:13:06 | 0:13:10 | |
and I knew what it meant in terms of the society, | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
but along the way, one finds all sorts of things | 0:13:13 | 0:13:15 | |
that one didn't know one knew, or was even interested in. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:18 | |
"My great-grandfather drifted up the Bellinger River | 0:13:19 | 0:13:22 | |
"like a blind man up the central aisle of Notre Dame. | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
"He saw nothing. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:28 | |
"The country was thick with sacred stories, more ancient than the ones | 0:13:28 | 0:13:31 | |
"he carried in his sweat-slippery leather Bible. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:34 | |
"He did not even imagine their presence. | 0:13:34 | 0:13:38 | |
"In this landscape, every rock had a name, | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
"and most names had spirits, ghosts, meanings." | 0:13:41 | 0:13:45 | |
And talking about the Australian settler experience, | 0:13:46 | 0:13:49 | |
and we mentioned that clearly there were people we call aborigines, | 0:13:49 | 0:13:54 | |
I mean, literally original people, | 0:13:54 | 0:13:56 | |
who lived on the continent of Australia for 50,000 years. | 0:13:56 | 0:14:00 | |
-Yep. -I mean, how likely is it that in the future you might try | 0:14:00 | 0:14:04 | |
and give them more of a voice in your creative work? | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
Well, I think you cannot be Australian | 0:14:07 | 0:14:09 | |
and you certainly can't be an Australian writer, | 0:14:09 | 0:14:12 | |
without, almost every day, thinking of this issue. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:16 | |
So then you have to think about what you can succeed in doing, | 0:14:16 | 0:14:21 | |
what you can know, what you can invent, and I've never forgotten | 0:14:21 | 0:14:25 | |
a conversation years ago with an aboriginal activist. | 0:14:25 | 0:14:30 | |
His name I think was Gary Foley, saying, "You guys, | 0:14:30 | 0:14:33 | |
"you've made up enough shit about us. We've got to deal with that now. | 0:14:33 | 0:14:38 | |
"So just do us a favour and don't make up any more for a bit." | 0:14:38 | 0:14:41 | |
-Just stop. -I think it's a reasonable point. | 0:14:41 | 0:14:43 | |
On the other hand, with everything I've done, | 0:14:43 | 0:14:46 | |
I think the one basic fact of Australia | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
is the fact that the land was stolen, | 0:14:49 | 0:14:52 | |
that we lied, that we... | 0:14:52 | 0:14:54 | |
So every book acknowledges it. | 0:14:54 | 0:14:57 | |
The present book I'm writing at the moment | 0:14:57 | 0:15:00 | |
is trying to do something a little more. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:02 | |
And, um...we'll see how I go. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:06 | |
Thank you. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:08 | |
India, of course, was the jewel in the crown of the British Empire. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:19 | |
And Indian textiles were especially valued, | 0:15:19 | 0:15:21 | |
as Britain could export these throughout the world. | 0:15:21 | 0:15:24 | |
Comedian Shazia Mirza looks at how fabric tells the evolving story | 0:15:24 | 0:15:28 | |
between Britain and India in the colonial era. | 0:15:28 | 0:15:31 | |
I've come to the Victoria and Albert Museum for a new exhibition | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
celebrating the fabrics of India. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:45 | |
It's a riot of colour and beauty, | 0:15:45 | 0:15:47 | |
with hundreds of dazzling textiles spanning 2,000 years, | 0:15:47 | 0:15:51 | |
and every part of the Indian subcontinent, including Pakistan. | 0:15:51 | 0:15:55 | |
Not only is the whole exhibition a tribute | 0:16:00 | 0:16:03 | |
to centuries of sophisticated craftsmanship, | 0:16:03 | 0:16:06 | |
it also has a particular significance for me, | 0:16:06 | 0:16:09 | |
as the daughter of Pakistani immigrants. | 0:16:09 | 0:16:11 | |
I was brought up in Birmingham | 0:16:13 | 0:16:14 | |
where I always wanted to dress like my friends - | 0:16:14 | 0:16:17 | |
in low-cut tops, short sleeves and short skirts. | 0:16:17 | 0:16:20 | |
But my mother, being very conservative, | 0:16:20 | 0:16:23 | |
dressed us all very conservatively. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:25 | |
And all my clothes were made by some random Asian lady | 0:16:25 | 0:16:29 | |
who lived down the road using traditional Indian fabrics | 0:16:29 | 0:16:32 | |
brought over from India by my relatives. | 0:16:32 | 0:16:36 | |
So now, seeing all this, it's like going back in time. | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
While the fabrics might feel familiar, | 0:16:42 | 0:16:44 | |
these are priceless historical artefacts, | 0:16:44 | 0:16:47 | |
many dating from imperial times. | 0:16:47 | 0:16:49 | |
This map shawl from the 1870s, | 0:16:52 | 0:16:54 | |
with its impressive hand-embroidered detail, | 0:16:54 | 0:16:57 | |
was intended as a present from the ruler of Kashmir | 0:16:57 | 0:17:00 | |
to the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII. | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
But it wasn't all about gift-giving. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:09 | |
This is part of a huge, decorated, cloth tent | 0:17:12 | 0:17:15 | |
used as a movable palace by Tipu Sultan, | 0:17:15 | 0:17:18 | |
the Islamic ruler of Mysore. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:20 | |
Tipu was killed by the British in a bloody battle in 1799, | 0:17:20 | 0:17:25 | |
and his possessions, including this tent, were taken as war booty. | 0:17:25 | 0:17:30 | |
After the British quashed Tipu, | 0:17:32 | 0:17:34 | |
it was acquired by a local colonial governor | 0:17:34 | 0:17:36 | |
called Lord Clive, who took it back home to his castle in Wales | 0:17:36 | 0:17:41 | |
and used it as a marquee for garden parties. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:44 | |
I knew I recognised it from somewhere. | 0:17:46 | 0:17:49 | |
The exhibition also reveals one surprising legacy of Empire - | 0:17:53 | 0:17:58 | |
how the British acquired a taste for chintz. | 0:17:58 | 0:18:01 | |
This Indian textile was first brought to Britain | 0:18:02 | 0:18:05 | |
by 17th-century traders and has been a hallmark | 0:18:05 | 0:18:09 | |
of English interior design and fashion ever since. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:13 | |
This early-18th-century creation of a petticoat and jacket | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
was created for export to the English market. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:20 | |
Hence the low-cut top. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:22 | |
But to me, it could just be a Laura Ashley creation. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:25 | |
I've got carpets that look like that. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:27 | |
It's so quintessentially English. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:30 | |
I would never associate this fabric with India at all. | 0:18:30 | 0:18:33 | |
In the 1700s, chintz became so popular | 0:18:33 | 0:18:37 | |
that weavers in Britain feared they'd go out of business | 0:18:37 | 0:18:40 | |
and had it banned. | 0:18:40 | 0:18:41 | |
After the ban, wearing chintz like this became an act of rebellion. | 0:18:43 | 0:18:47 | |
Some women were even attacked in the street. | 0:18:47 | 0:18:50 | |
I've heard of people being attacked for wearing fur, but florals? | 0:18:50 | 0:18:54 | |
That's a first! | 0:18:54 | 0:18:56 | |
Soon, the British were collecting samples of Indian fabrics | 0:18:58 | 0:19:02 | |
to copy and manufacture more cheaply in their own mills. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:06 | |
It nearly destroyed the Indian cloth industry, | 0:19:06 | 0:19:08 | |
but local craftsmen fought back | 0:19:08 | 0:19:11 | |
and contemporary fashions on display reveal | 0:19:11 | 0:19:14 | |
it's still in really good health today. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:17 | |
Two of the most spectacular items on show in the exhibition | 0:19:20 | 0:19:23 | |
are the creations of Manish Arora, | 0:19:23 | 0:19:26 | |
one of India's leading fashion designers. | 0:19:26 | 0:19:29 | |
His colourful clothes are much loved in the West | 0:19:30 | 0:19:33 | |
and worn by celebrities like Katy Perry. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:35 | |
I met up with Manish to find out | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
how he incorporates traditional techniques into his designs. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:43 | |
Well, when I started showing internationally, | 0:19:45 | 0:19:47 | |
I realised I had to take my culture with me. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
And what could I do? I could take my craftsmanship with me | 0:19:50 | 0:19:53 | |
because today I think Indians do the best embroideries in the world, | 0:19:53 | 0:19:58 | |
even Chinese can't do that. | 0:19:58 | 0:20:00 | |
Besides that, for me, | 0:20:00 | 0:20:02 | |
I was brought up since I was a child | 0:20:02 | 0:20:04 | |
seeing women wearing red, blue, green, orange, yellow, | 0:20:04 | 0:20:07 | |
all in one garment, and with all the embellishments | 0:20:07 | 0:20:10 | |
and the shine and still look convincing. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:12 | |
And that has come with me throughout my life. | 0:20:12 | 0:20:16 | |
So it's just natural for me to adapt that in my work. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:21 | |
Gold and pink are my religion, and I love, I love embellishments. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:26 | |
-The glitz and glamour. -The shinier, the better. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:29 | |
Oh, that's good. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:31 | |
If you walk into my studio, you will see at any given point of time | 0:20:34 | 0:20:38 | |
about 150, 200 people working... | 0:20:38 | 0:20:40 | |
Sometimes I'm amazed that they can just stare at one fabric for months | 0:20:42 | 0:20:49 | |
and go on and on and keep sewing sequins on it in such fine detail. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:54 | |
I think they are the real artists. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:56 | |
A work of art is the only way to describe this dress. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:00 | |
With its 1,500 individual butterflies | 0:21:00 | 0:21:04 | |
made from vinyl and plastic, | 0:21:04 | 0:21:06 | |
each one hand embroidered. | 0:21:06 | 0:21:08 | |
That dress was made for my first show in Paris. | 0:21:09 | 0:21:12 | |
We had about 20 or 25 people involved for four months | 0:21:12 | 0:21:17 | |
going through various techniques of appliqueing | 0:21:17 | 0:21:20 | |
and then sending it for hand embroidery | 0:21:20 | 0:21:22 | |
and then attaching the tentacles and putting the pearls. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:25 | |
Then making all the 1,500 pieces and then attaching them. | 0:21:25 | 0:21:29 | |
-Yeah, it's a lot of work. -It's a lot of work. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:34 | |
The craftsmanship takes such a long time. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:37 | |
Do people in the West just expect a really quick turnaround? | 0:21:37 | 0:21:40 | |
Yes, they do, in the West. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:42 | |
And what we're doing now is just churning things, | 0:21:42 | 0:21:45 | |
we're not creating, I don't think anyone has the time to spend | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
or to be one of a kind, or come up with ideas | 0:21:48 | 0:21:53 | |
which are straight from the heart because no-one has time. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:56 | |
Yes, in India we appreciate it takes a very long time. | 0:21:56 | 0:21:59 | |
And I don't want to miss that. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:00 | |
I want to continue doing that and I will. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:03 | |
And now we are going to take a look at an artist | 0:22:14 | 0:22:16 | |
who has taken a unique journey. | 0:22:16 | 0:22:18 | |
From the Caribbean, to London | 0:22:18 | 0:22:20 | |
and back to his ancestral roots in Africa. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:23 | |
Fokowan was born George Kelly, | 0:22:23 | 0:22:24 | |
but adopted his Yoruba name after a life-changing trip to Nigeria. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:28 | |
This set him on the path to creating | 0:22:28 | 0:22:31 | |
a truly distinctive form of sculpture. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:33 | |
This is my home. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:39 | |
And this is where I make my work. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:42 | |
In the religion of Nigeria, they talk about the head | 0:22:44 | 0:22:49 | |
being the seat of consciousness. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
And so I deal with heads, | 0:22:51 | 0:22:53 | |
I deal with the seat of consciousness. | 0:22:53 | 0:22:55 | |
I was born in Kingston, Jamaica, in 1943, | 0:22:59 | 0:23:03 | |
which was then part of the British Empire. | 0:23:03 | 0:23:06 | |
Education was based on the British model, | 0:23:06 | 0:23:11 | |
or controlled by the colonial masters. | 0:23:11 | 0:23:14 | |
And most of it came from the Royal Crown Reader series. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:19 | |
And that really was just a piece of propaganda for the British Empire. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:22 | |
When you saw black people, they were savages in Africa | 0:23:22 | 0:23:28 | |
with white missionaries in pots and they'd be dancing around. | 0:23:28 | 0:23:31 | |
We were not really taught anything, especially in history, | 0:23:31 | 0:23:36 | |
about local Jamaica. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:39 | |
And so our whole existence was about ignoring, | 0:23:39 | 0:23:43 | |
pretending we didn't notice, anything that was black. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:48 | |
You know, I'm running around in the sunshine, | 0:23:51 | 0:23:54 | |
I run around barefooted, no problem. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:57 | |
I come to England to find that we were living in a house | 0:23:57 | 0:24:01 | |
with about 50 people. | 0:24:01 | 0:24:03 | |
50 people living in this four-storey building in Brixton. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:07 | |
Every house had chimneys, and the only time I'd ever seen | 0:24:07 | 0:24:11 | |
chimneys in Jamaica was at the cement factory. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:14 | |
And by the end of September, October, | 0:24:14 | 0:24:17 | |
smoke started coming out of these chimneys. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
And then we ended up with fog and smog, it was just unbelievable. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:25 | |
They put me in a class with another black guy, | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
but he was born here and he couldn't understand what I was saying | 0:24:30 | 0:24:34 | |
when I spoke to him, and I didn't understand a word. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:37 | |
-He said... -HE MUMBLES | 0:24:37 | 0:24:40 | |
A real cockney, he was! | 0:24:40 | 0:24:41 | |
But there were some other outsiders | 0:24:41 | 0:24:44 | |
who nobody could understand either. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:46 | |
They all came from Glasgow. | 0:24:46 | 0:24:48 | |
So they would talk and nobody in the class would understand them, | 0:24:49 | 0:24:53 | |
so they took me in and they took care of me. | 0:24:53 | 0:24:56 | |
# Oh, the harder they come | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
# The harder they'll fall... # | 0:24:59 | 0:25:02 | |
I became a musician for a while. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:05 | |
So a point came when Jimmy Cliff needed a sound engineer | 0:25:05 | 0:25:10 | |
to do a tour in Nigeria. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:13 | |
And so I was asked to do the job, this was in 1974. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:19 | |
I left the airport and headed towards the hotel | 0:25:19 | 0:25:23 | |
and I saw all these people I knew. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:25 | |
The first time I'd seen so many black faces since I left Jamaica. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:31 | |
It's like a river, or rivers of black faces, | 0:25:31 | 0:25:34 | |
and it was like, "George, you're home!" | 0:25:34 | 0:25:37 | |
Going to that country totally transformed my perception of life, | 0:25:38 | 0:25:43 | |
of spirit. I mean, the place was so electrifying, | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
you could actually cut the electricity | 0:25:47 | 0:25:50 | |
that was whizzing around in the air. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:52 | |
And I brought back some of that with me. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:55 | |
But the spirit kind of said to me, | 0:25:55 | 0:25:57 | |
music isn't the way for you to express this thing. | 0:25:57 | 0:26:02 | |
So I went out and got clay and started modelling. | 0:26:02 | 0:26:05 | |
And it was a way of releasing all that pent-up stuff. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:09 | |
The first exhibition that I actually took part in, | 0:26:13 | 0:26:16 | |
that was the beginning, and it was really exciting. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:19 | |
Young artists came from university for the first time who were | 0:26:19 | 0:26:22 | |
trained here, who were born here. | 0:26:22 | 0:26:25 | |
Then you had people like myself who didn't go to university, | 0:26:25 | 0:26:28 | |
are self-taught, had brought something with us | 0:26:28 | 0:26:32 | |
from the Caribbean that we needed to say, and we had to say. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:35 | |
We were all invited to take part in an exhibition. | 0:26:35 | 0:26:39 | |
We all entered a piece, and mine was actually rejected. | 0:26:39 | 0:26:42 | |
I went to collect the piece and asked the curator why. | 0:26:42 | 0:26:46 | |
The curator then told me, to my face, | 0:26:46 | 0:26:49 | |
that my piece was too tribal. | 0:26:49 | 0:26:51 | |
Something in the art that I produce had some powerful element | 0:26:51 | 0:26:58 | |
that showed the difference between those who bring to this culture | 0:26:58 | 0:27:05 | |
and those who were born into this culture. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:07 | |
The idea of the purpose | 0:27:10 | 0:27:14 | |
and reason for doing art was really for my community. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:18 | |
It wasn't about being some kind of solemn artist who creates art | 0:27:18 | 0:27:24 | |
to sell and make a lot of money. | 0:27:24 | 0:27:26 | |
It wasn't a lot of money, as long as I am warm and I'm fed | 0:27:26 | 0:27:30 | |
and I have a glass of wine, I'm fine. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
But there are one-off pieces that can't be reproduced. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:38 | |
Therefore they have to stay within the community. | 0:27:38 | 0:27:41 | |
I really would like to donate them to an institution | 0:27:41 | 0:27:45 | |
and then I'd be happy, yes. | 0:27:45 | 0:27:47 | |
Thank you for watching. | 0:27:49 | 0:27:51 | |
I leave you with Laura Mvula performing a song by Fela Kuti | 0:27:51 | 0:27:55 | |
at the British Library as part of their celebration | 0:27:55 | 0:27:57 | |
of West African culture. | 0:27:57 | 0:27:59 | |
-# Everyone, dey dance -Him go push | 0:27:59 | 0:28:02 | |
-# Everyone, dey hear -Him go shout | 0:28:02 | 0:28:05 | |
-# Everyone, dey hear -Him go see | 0:28:05 | 0:28:06 | |
-# Everyone, dey think -Him go drink | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
-# Everyone, dey dance -Him go push | 0:28:08 | 0:28:11 | |
-# Everyone, dey talk -Him go shout | 0:28:11 | 0:28:13 | |
-# Everyone, dey hear -Him go sleep | 0:28:13 | 0:28:15 | |
-# Everyone, dey think -Him go drink | 0:28:15 | 0:28:17 | |
-# Everyone, dey dance -Him go push | 0:28:17 | 0:28:19 | |
-# Everyone, dey talk -Him go shout | 0:28:19 | 0:28:21 | |
-# Everyone, dey hear -Him go sleep | 0:28:21 | 0:28:24 | |
-# Everyone, dey think -Him go drink | 0:28:24 | 0:28:26 | |
-# Everyone, dey dance -Him go push | 0:28:26 | 0:28:28 | |
-# Everyone, dey hear -Him go shout | 0:28:28 | 0:28:30 | |
-# Everyone, dey hear -Him go sleep | 0:28:30 | 0:28:32 | |
-# Everyone, dey think -Him go drink | 0:28:32 | 0:28:34 | |
# He say na-na-na | 0:28:34 | 0:28:36 | |
# Him don show himself | 0:28:36 | 0:28:38 | |
# Opposite people Them go show themselves... # | 0:28:38 | 0:28:41 |