Dress Wars Jigs and Wigs: The Extreme World of Irish Dancing

Since Irish dancing migrated to all corners of the globe,

it has embraced many other traditions and styles

and turned into an international business.

It's an art form...

a sport...

and an entertainment.

But despite the amateur status of the competitions,

the world of Irish dance dress design is nothing but professional.

And there's a newcomer taking the stage.

Thelma Madine, celebrity wedding dressmaker

to the travelling community,

believes her sewing and marketing skills are transferable.

I think Irish dancing, to me, it's always been a fascination with me,

ever since I seen it on the Eurovision.

I just thought it was an absolutely amazing world, and I thought,

"I want to be part of this."

Because it's everything I love about what we do.

I don't understate anything.

It's like, if we do a dress for a traveller -

"Do you like that dress? Yeah? Well, double it. Put more on."

World-renowned teacher and designer Gavin Doherty has trained

and dressed many world champions.

He has concerns.

People coming into this world,

they see a kid in a wig and they

focus on that. They don't focus on,

you know, the talent and the work.

You know, these kids are athletes. And the kids at this competition,

they are the top athletes in the world.

Because Thelma was on TV, she might fight it difficult,

because a lot of people will be resistant towards

portraying Irish dancing in that way.

I'm here to please the customer.

And if they ask me to do something,

then it's never going to be off-limits.

No matter what they ask me to do, I will do.

-I'm going to ask the inevitable one.

-Go on.

Are you planning on putting the fairy lights on any of them?

Possibly.

I'm here to break the rules, really. And let's see how far I can get.

Thelma's first-ever Irish dancing dress customer

was Essex-born Erin Cooke, who was one of a trio of sisters.

In my family, there's me, Gaby, Megan and my mum.

Gaby used to dance, but she quit.

And Megan is, I think, still dancing.

Erin is the most successful dancer in the family.

A fact that isn't always celebrated by her sisters.

This room was our playroom.

The dogs stay in here now, but my trophies have to be in here

because Gaby thinks they look tacky in our room, so she won't let me

keep anything, except for my world medal and globe next to my bed.

Erin was attracted to Thelma's blinged-up dress designs

after seeing her on TV.

We always watch My Big Fat Gypsy Weddings.

So, one night we were watching it

and I just thought they were really nice and sparkly.

So I told my mum, "I want her to make me a dance dress,"

and she said, "Well, go on, then, e-mail her."

To everyone's surprise, Thelma agreed to make her first-ever

Irish dance dress for Erin.

Obviously we have a huge amount of very,

very successful Irish dressmakers, and that's who everyone sticks to.

So for her to completely go off the tangent

and have a dress made by Thelma Madine is so, so different.

And there are obviously girls thinking,

"Oh, why would you have a dress made by her?

"I had mine made by X, Y or Z."

But I'm sure there's probably

a little bit of the green eyed monster in some of them.

Erin has outgrown her old dress, and Thelma has been working

on a brand-new design, but she's kept all of the details a secret.

Until now.

Today she's unveiling the dress at the World Championships.

They've basically left this to us,

and we've just put our own... our own stamp on it, really,

and it's what....

We're trying to, not break the rules,

but push the rules a little bit.

I love it. Honestly, I love the all-white idea.

I don't want to say beautiful, but extravagant. It stands out.

It is beautiful. You can say beautiful.

And I like that it's not a plain dress, it's different.

-Bling.

-Bling.

It's bling, it's sparkle.

It's exactly what dancers are looking for.

And you know, the reds and the golds and everything.

That is perfect and exquisite.

But the dress is not to everyone's liking.

Renowned Irish dancing teacher Mrs O'Shea is a traditionalist,

and not afraid to share her thoughts.

You know, in my book, it doesn't have taste.

I'd like to see something that is definitely more

-representative of our culture, our dancing.

-Of the culture, yeah.

-And incorporates that.

-Yeah, definitely.

I mean, you tell me where we can move forward

but still keep what you're talking about. You know, to keep that in.

-The colour is very important.

-So, what colour are you saying?

-I mean, I'm open to this.

-There are beautiful colours.

-Greens, oranges, blues, whites, pinks, the lot.

-Right.

-But, you know, I think it has to be classy.

-Right.

I love the idea that there's snobby people who don't really want

the association with Irish dance and gypsies and weddings

and things like that, because it just makes it all

the more of a challenge to make sure that it is a success.

But as Erin tries on her new dress,

it seems that Mrs O'Shea isn't the only one with misgivings.

I don't like the shoulders.

I'm a little apprehensive. I think it's a little bit...

-The shape is off and I think there's too much.

-Too much, and the shape?

Yeah, and I'm not sure about you dancing in it.

I'm just concerned about seeing her move on stage.

Whether all the extra bits is going to make it look like

she's got an arm fault or a body fault.

The dress is deemed unfit for purpose,

and it's back to the drawing board for Thelma.

-I wouldn't like a crowd staring at me now.

-No.

Established Irish dance dress designers are exhibiting

at the World Championships,

but Thelma is less than impressed by some of the sewing.

Would we get away with that?

Maybe you can get away with that more

because a child is less three-dimensional.

As the day draws to a close,

Thelma and Paula discuss their findings over a glass of wine.

Don't you think, because it is, like, a traditional thing,

the views are almost traditional?

And so, OK, so you want to do a shoulder and a big, mad skirt,

and dripping in diamonds, which is brilliant,

but maybe it's too much too soon for them?

Do you know what?

If we don't do it, that Gavin... Doherty, whatever...

What's his name?

He'll do it. Do you know what I mean?

He'll do something like that, and I want to be the first to do it.

He's got the monopoly, Thelma. So, you know...

Not for long.

Back in Liverpool, Thelma understands that

staying in the spotlight is key to the success of her business.

She's starring in the local panto -

combining her passion for the theatrical with outrageous costumes.

-Hello, boys and girls.

-AUDIENCE: Hello.

Oh, you can do better than that.

-Hello, boys and girls.

-AUDIENCE: Hello!

That's better.

Now, my name is Fairy Moonbeam...

'This is the first year that I've ever been asked

'to do anything that is totally out of my comfort zone,

'which is a pantomime.'

Usually you just come on and do your bit,

but with me they wanted me to wear a big dress

and then each scene it gets bigger and bigger and bigger.

And my hips are bruised all over.

They get that big in the end

that it's basically impossible to walk or anything.

The audience just love it.

You know, when you come in with a new dress on,

you hear all the little girls going, "Oh!"

Fairy Moonbeam, it's a pleasure to meet you.

Oh, Father, can we invite Fairy Moonbeam to the wedding too?

Of course we can.

I just have to give you my card.

At first I said I'd never do this again,

but we've only got six shows to go now, and I think I'd really miss it.

Meanwhile, Erin, her mum, and the teacher Mandy are making

the ten hour round trip to Thelma's factory to discuss ideas for

a new dress for the 2015 World Championships in Montreal.

OK, we're really, really nearly there. We've got the flag now.

Another five minutes, I reckon.

-You excited?

-I don't know.

I'm, like, excited and nervous.

I have every faith in her.

She's...improving with each dress we've had.

This will be it. This will be the ultimate dress.

-This is the first time you've been here, Mandy, isn't it?

-It is, yes.

So I'm glad you've come because I don't want

none of the mistakes what happened last time because, obviously,

it's cost-effective for us as well, if we're taking things apart...

-It's the communication.

-Definitely.

And by e-mail it's too hard to do.

So it's good that we've got you here, and what you want,

and obviously Mandy has a big input into what you should have.

Well, we were thinking of maybe

going away from the lighter colours this time.

Maybe going something warmer

and then putting the sparkle and bright onto it.

So, like a warmer bubblegum pink, or something.

Purple and pink together looks quite good.

-You could do orange.

-Yeah, you could do.

I had orange on that one.

-Really orange, or something...?

-No, bright.

-Bright orange.

-So do you think a lace over this?

-I think...

I think I'd like something really different this time.

-We've done lace.

-Yeah.

What if we had solid blocks of diamonds and have the rest,

you know, in orange?

To be honest, I love the bling.

OK, let's go for it then. So...

Getting a new dress is just the biggest stress to me.

So today I'm very happy that we've spoken about

the design and the fit, but it's still very stressful.

I'm excited because I, personally, believe Thelma's dresses

are improving and I think she will go from strength to strength,

but she's got to get it right, and that's what it boils down to.

She's got to get it right.

It's got to be an Irish dance dress, it hasn't got to be a pretty dress.

And if she gets it right, then she's got a huge market.

Thelma has plans to extend her empire,

and arrives in Athlone to stock her Irish dancing costumes

in local dress emporium Sindy's Bling,

where she's greeted by owner Sandrina.

Hello! Give us a hand, girls.

This is...

Oh, my God. How are you?

Good to see you again.

Right, I've got all the headdresses and everything there as well.

-Oh, wow.

-Nice, isn't it?

Very nice.

Wow. Some detail in that.

Isn't there just?

You can have her as blinged-up as that, which is, like, on the front.

Or you can go a little less bling,

if you want to, and have it like that.

There's a price for everyone. That's what we're trying to say.

And it's not long before the women welcome their first local customers.

-Hiya, Valerie.

-Hi.

-Hiya, Mary.

-Hello. Hello, ladies.

What do you like?

I like the pink one. Can I try it on?

THEY LAUGH

Do you want to try it on, do you?

I'm sure we can do that for you.

The two girls are looking for a new costume for Irish dancing,

and Sandrina had been telling me that Thelma was coming over,

so no better woman to bling-up the costumes than....

-And it's a good opportunity to get to talk to her.

-Yeah, exactly.

A brilliant opportunity.

Are you ready for this?

-You ready to see her?

-Yeah.

-Right, cover your eyes.

-Here we go.

-The big reveal.

Close your eyes.

Can we look?

Wow!

Do a turn. Spin around for me. Let me...

Oh, my goodness. Amazing. That is gorgeous.

It's a little bit big for her.

-Yes, but it's beautiful.

-Yeah. It's gorgeous.

I think it's nice because there's loads of diamonds on it

and because it's pink, and people might be like,

"Oh, my God. That's a Thelma Madine dress."

-Will you be able to dance in it?

-Yeah.

-You going to show us?

-You going to show us how you dance?

And that's why she's eighth in the world.

-Seventh.

-Seventh. Oh, sorry, sorry.

I think definitely it is the next thing that every

Irish dancing school is going to want to have a Thelma dress.

There's no two ways about it.

But Thelma's busy schedule has taken its toll

on her first Irish dance dress clients.

It's now only weeks away from the 2015 World Championships,

and finally Erin has received a template of her new dress.

Minus the embellishments.

We've brought the dress in today

so that Mandy can have a quick look at it.

Obviously we've tried it on Erin and there are things that

we know are very obviously wrong.

She'll dance in it today and show Mandy how the skirt goes,

how wrong the skirt is.

Thelma doesn't have an Irish dance background.

And Thelma's ideas are beautiful,

but they don't necessarily work for an Irish dance dress and...

-certainly that would be the case with this skirt.

-Yeah.

And as Erin attempts to dance,

it soon becomes apparent just how distracting the skirt is.

Erin has worked so hard this year,

she practically is at class five or six times a week.

Unfortunately, that age group is one of the hardest in the whole

of the World Championships and that is my concern.

She needs to have the right look

so it's just all about her dancing and her performance.

It feels really awkward, because this,

because it's too high it feels like I need to keep pulling it down,

but because there's too much of this, when I kick it's like...

-stopping me kicking.

-OK, so it's interfering with your dancing?

-Yeah.

I love the colour on you, it's beautiful.

We've just got to sort the skirt out,

and let's hope that she comes up with the goods.

As always, Thelma's tops are beautiful,

but the skirts are still not right, in my opinion.

I still think she needs to work on that,

but we are running out of time, which is a problem for Erin.

Two weeks have passed and it's time for the World Championships.

Thelma arrives with her daughter, Katrina

and husband, Dave, to set up her first-ever Irish dancing dress stand,

but is met with a frosty reception.

When I arrived in Montreal, it was absolutely freezing outside,

but I can swear, when we went in that hall, it was below freezing.

I mean, the icy stares I was getting was unbelievable.

Undeterred, Thelma is determined to upstage the competition.

That's it.

I was going to try and make it like a boudoir-type scene.

You know, with the shades and... You know, just to make it look

a little bit more inviting for people to come on.

But it's not long before

her neighbouring stallholders start to get worried.

I just want to make sure you're not putting a wall here.

-No.

-Thank you. Thank you very much. Appreciate it.

Looks like we're not putting a wall up there now.

Thelma soon discovers that archrival Gavin Doherty's stand is nearby.

Don't be looking in from there. Oh, God. You know what?

I know, I'll look through the curtains and see.

No, I can see the stand.

I mean, bloody hell.

I love me, who do I love? Look at the stand.

If he was chocolate, he'd eat himself.

Having never met Gavin before,

Thelma is quick to introduce herself.

-Hiya.

-How's things?

-Pleased to meet you.

-You too. How's it going?

-OK, I think. I don't know, it's a little bit overpowering, isn't it?

-Yeah, yeah.

No, I do. I love your dresses, they are really, really nice.

Thank you very much. Yours look really nice as well.

I want you to come over and have a look and give me your honest opinion.

Oh, yeah. Not a problem at all.

-Because people tell you rules and things you can't do, things you can do.

-Totally.

Do you know what? There's plenty of work for all of us.

There's thousands upon thousands of kids dancing. So, really, it's not a big deal at all.

-You've been doing this a long time, haven't you?

-Too long.

-How long have you been doing it?

-About...15 years.

-I'd love you to come over and just give me...

-Oh, definitely.

We'll even grab a drink and stuff later on anyway.

Yeah, we will. Definitely. OK, all right, love. Bye.

I think whenever people heard Thelma was making Irish dancing costumes, it did create some ripples.

It's the fear of portraying Irish dancing as something that

it's not, and making it like it's the Toddlers in Tiaras.

That's it's all about the look, and it's not all about the look.

You know, we teach these kids day after day, night after night, in class.

They don't wear costumes. When the World Championships were in Glasgow

the last time, there was a write-up in one of the papers

that was vile about children -

that they look like mini-transvestites

and things like that.

And that's not what we want for this organisation

or for Irish dancing in general.

And I think people were maybe stand-offish from Thelma

at the beginning because they were worried it was going to

portray Irish dancing in a bad light, and that's certainly not what

I would ever want to see happen.

As the crowds roll in,

Thelma's eye-catching dresses are receiving a mixed reaction.

Er... Wouldn't be something I would want

to put my daughter in, in all honesty.

They don't look to me like dresses

that you would be comfortable to actually wear for competition.

More maybe for a fashion show type thing, but not for competition.

If they saw a world champion wearing a dress like that,

everyone would probably want one.

Just like with, like, movie stars and stuff,

when they advertise a product, you obviously want to get it,

because, you know, famous people, they're getting it,

so why don't I get it?

Yeah. If they win, everybody would start getting them.

Me and my parents talked about this last night.

If we were really rich, we would, like,

buy one just to show it to our teacher

for, like, a prank or something.

Like, "Hey, hello, Miss Anya. How do you like our new dress?"

She would have a conniption. She would probably pass out.

Thelma's unique selling point is her bling.

From all the dresses I've seen,

I think she definitely does the bling factor the best.

I would certainly, being honest,

hate to see one of those dresses on the world stage,

because I think Irish dancing has been

-criticised in recent years...

-Just for the wigs.

..in going away from tradition.

So I think if we went down that road we would only be taking

so many steps back away from promoting Irish dancing

as what it is, which is Irish.

And while the crowd seems bemused by Thelma's designs,

she is taken aback by some of Gavin's newest looks.

I was going to go and have another little look around

but I can't believe what I've actually just seen there.

There's actually flashing lights on the dresses.

I should just go over and say, "Oh, darling, it's so last year."

Oh.

Next morning, Erin has been for a spray tan

and is going through her steps with Mandy.

-You all right?

-Yeah.

I'm nervous, but in a kind of positive way.

I mean, she's ready, she's worked so hard for it.

Still, in the back of my mind, I worry that she's a bit tired.

You know, jet lag and all that.

Don't move too far.

She's got as best a chance as any of them.

It just depends on the day how they all perform and how it comes across.

So we'll see.

Meanwhile, Thelma's presence at the World Championships

continues to attract attention.

-Done.

-Thank you so much. Thanks a million.

-You're welcome.

Children have come up to her there

and asked for a photograph with her, and I said,

"I presume that's cos you're a film star,

"rather than a dressmaker, you know?"

But the standard of the dancing is exceptional now.

And if you have 150 girls in there

and there's very little between them,

so they're trying to make themselves stand out somehow.

Backstage, Erin Cooke is well aware of the need to make

a first impression, as she prepares to reveal

an entirely new look to the world.

The dress looked just beautiful. Yeah, everything.

It needs that stage. It needs, you know, the big stage

and the lights and everything to get the real effect of it.

Everything just sat right. Everything... Yeah.

Meanwhile, Dave is manning the stall and is doing his best to stay busy.

You don't really want to know.

I'm looking at golf clubs here, but...

But he's interrupted by a customer

who's keen to find out more about the dresses.

And does it come fully stoned, or is that all extra?

That one, as it is now, is about 750.

-Excellent.

-We're doing quite well.

There's a lot of interest here and whatever.

I'm doing quite well, as a builder goes.

Having completed two rounds,

Erin nervously waits to hear if she's been recalled.

-'160. 162.'

-Yes!

'164. 165.'

It's just unbelievable.

This is like a whole sea of emotion.

I mean, this is the pinnacle of their year.

And they don't just dance, they actually live the dancing.

That's their life. And you can just see so many emotions.

My heart wouldn't take it, I couldn't do this.

Meanwhile, Thelma has made a discovery that she's not happy about.

Just totally pissed off this morning

because as a marketing exercise, I've been asking all the people

who have flown through here to, with the chance of winning a dress,

but really what I want to do is get all their details,

where they got their last dress, just things like that.

And four of them who've just came back just said,

"We don't have a choice where we get our dress from."

The school, the dance teacher, tells them where to get their dress from.

I thought it was democratic.

It's absolutely ridiculous,

I've never heard anything like it in my life.

Erin is awaiting the results for her age group,

but soon realises that she's in the wrong hall.

The London group rush off to the neighbouring auditorium

and arrive just in time to hear Erin's result.

'In 11th place, Sadie Bucknam. Murray Academy, New England.'

'12th place was Erin Grace Cooke...'

'In 13th place was Caitlin Marani...'

Erin's position of 12th place

puts her first out of the London dancers in her age group.

'From the Hennigan School, Southern region of England, Erin Grace Cook.'

APPLAUSE

From the Dillon Magh Adhair School, Western region USA, Caitlin Marani.

'One, two, three.

'Thank you, all.'

And Erin's not the only one taking to the stage.

Thelma has been asked to present prizes to the 15 to 16-year-olds,

and it's whet her appetite for future ambitions.

Coming to Montreal has definitely moved me forward. Definitely.

But the biggest thing in this world

is to get a champion wearing one of your dresses,

because to see that champion on the podium, holding that cup up,

every other kid watching that is going to want that dress,

or a dress similar to that.

And I would love to make a dress for a champion.

Next day, it's business as usual for most of the other dressmakers.

But Thelma is nowhere to be seen,

leaving her competitors speculating.

I'm not sure why Thelma left early. She seemed to pack up yesterday.

I'm not sure whether she had already planned to go early or

she wasn't getting the reception she had maybe hoped for.

I'm not sure how many kids here were wearing Thelma's

dresses at the World Championships,

but I don't think we've lost any customers to her this week.

I think her dress designs are very unique.

They mightn't be everybody's cup of tea,

but I'm sure they will appeal to some dancers.

And she just really needs to be around the dancing scene

to see what the people want and what they don't want.

But despite her early departure,

Thelma remains committed to the new business,

and leaves her naysayers with a strong parting message.

To the other people who think if they make it difficult for me,

that I'm going to go away -

well, they're out of luck, because I'm not going anywhere.

I'm staying here,

and I'll be back next year and the year after and the year after.