Yr Hen Ffordd Gymreig o Fyw Y Plas


Yr Hen Ffordd Gymreig o Fyw

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-Wales's mansions and estates

-have adorned our history...

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-..and shaped our landscape

-for centuries.

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-Mansions were reputedly

-the homes of greedy Englishmen...

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-..who sucked wealth from the land

-and oppressed ordinary people.

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-But today

-we can tell a different story.

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-By delving into history,

-we uncover the unexpected.

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-It's so fascinating...

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-..that mansions and estates played

-a central role within Welsh society.

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-Hundreds of mansions

-have been demolished...

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-..but some owners remain

-in the towns of their forefathers.

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-It's impossible to run an estate

-such as this just with your head.

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-It has to also come from the heart.

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-Others yearn for

-the old traditional way of life.

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-They were tough times

-but they were happy times.

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-The mansion's history is firmly

-rooted in the Welsh tradition.

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-Welcome to Trawsgoed Mansion.

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-This mansion

-near Aberystwyth is for sale.

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-This is the main entrance.

-Imagine this 100 years ago.

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-It would have been ostentatious

-with grand furniture...

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-..and a roaring fire.

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-This is the room

-that would greet you.

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-The current mansion,

-which has 70 rooms...

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-..was built

-in the Victorian and Georgian eras.

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-The estate belonged

-to the same family for 750 years.

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-The history of the mansions has,

-to some extent, been misinterpreted.

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-The mansion's image...

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-..is that of

-a rather oppressive building...

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-..with an unscrupulous family

-living within its walls.

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-But curiously...

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-..mansions and estates were actually

-central to the communities in Wales.

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-This room served as a library.

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-Books were displayed on the walls

-either side of the fireplace.

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-When showing the house

-to prospective buyers...

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-..this room is all important,

-they love to make an entrance.

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-The ceiling commands attention...

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-..and the French doors overlooking

-the garden are also impressive.

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-Sir John Vaughan formed the modern

-estate during Charles I's reign.

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-In its heyday, the sprawling estate

-covered 42,000 acres.

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-Influential people came here

-to stay with the Vaughan family.

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-Let's go into the living room...

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-..where portraits of famous

-people who visited over the years...

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-..adorn the walls.

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-This staircase

-was installed two centuries ago.

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-The spindles have been created

-from a single piece of wood.

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-The craftsmanship is amazing.

-Look at this carved pineapple.

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-Let me guide you

-into the main bedroom.

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-King Edward VIII once stayed here.

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-When he visited Trawsgoed...

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-..he was the Prince of Wales.

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-Before he arrived,

-they made sure he had the best room.

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-They installed

-this remarkable fireplace...

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-..to make

-the Prince of Wales feel at home.

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-I'm sure he had a splendid time.

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-The family sold the mansion

-and the estate following WWII.

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-Only the hunting

-and fishing rights...

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-..and the inherited title belongs

-to the current heir, John Vaughan.

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-In terms of restoring

-a house like this...

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-..the intricate features

-have already been completed.

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-Someone would need close to half

-a million to finish the restoration.

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-But you have to be

-sympathetic to the period.

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-You couldn't install

-a budget kitchen!

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-You'd need

-the right tiles and furnishings...

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-..to ensure

-it's in keeping with the period.

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-If you were to buy

-the entire property today...

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-..it would set you back 1,770,000.

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-But the wealth of mansions

-is defined in ways other than cash.

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-In South East Wales are the homes...

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-..of a family

-famous for its Welsh welcome.

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-For centuries, they were

-important centres of Welsh culture.

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-Good morning.

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-Good morning.

-Welcome To Tredegar House.

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-My name's Steffan.

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-Tredegar House is one

-of Wales's grandest mansions.

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-It was home to the Morgan family,

-a traditional Welsh family.

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-The Morgans

-were proud of their Welshness.

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-Come inside.

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-What better way to promote Welshness

-than by boasting about your lineage?

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-The Morgan family's genealogy...

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-..dates back to the

-10th-century rulers of Glamorgan.

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-In Wales, a greater emphasis

-was placed on genealogy...

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-..than in England.

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-The ability to boast

-a long and noble lineage...

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-..was often considered more

-important than wealth in Wales.

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-More significant than aristocratic

-lineage was immortality.

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-One sure way

-of being immortalized...

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-..was to patronize a poet

-to sing your praises.

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-Ifor Hael

-was one of the three sons...

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-..of Llywelyn ab Ifor.

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-Llywelyn ab Ifor came here to

-establish the family in the area.

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-Morgan, the eldest son,

-lived here at Tredegar House.

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-Ifor was the second son

-and lived in Gwern Y Cleppa.

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-He secured

-the patronage of the poets...

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-..the most famous of whom

-was Dafydd ap Gwilym.

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-This is the old hall.

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-Before it became the servants' hall,

-it was the family's main hall.

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-I'm sure Sion ap Morgan...

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-..who lived here

-during the 15th century...

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-..would have stood here...

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-..and been entertained

-by his poets, harpist and so on...

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-..while feasting

-with his servants...

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-..because back then,

-they shared the same space.

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-The poets' patronage

-continued for centuries.

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-The room has been preserved.

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-It's how it may have looked

-in the 19th century...

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-..when Sir Charles Morgan

-lived here.

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-Charles was an Englishman

-and a distant relative...

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-..when his father inherited

-the Morgans' substantial estates.

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-But there was one condition.

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-He had to adopt the Morgan name

-and the ancient coat of arms.

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-Charles followed his forefathers...

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-..by becoming

-a renowned Welsh patron.

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-He supported the local eisteddfodau.

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-He, along with Lady Llanover...

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-..were responsible...

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-..for helping establish

-cultural events in Abergavenny.

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-As a result of that...

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-..he became known as Ifor Hael II...

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-..defender of

-the Welsh language here in Gwent.

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-Sir Charles wasn't the last of the

-Morgans to support the Welsh cause.

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-Here we get a glimpse

-of the history of Godfrey Morgan.

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-He was captain

-of the 17th Lancers...

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-..during

-the Charge of the Light Brigade.

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-He survived the battle.

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-He was a proud Welshman...

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-..and conversant

-with Welsh history.

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-When the National Welsh Pageant

-was held at Cardiff Castle...

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-..Godfrey decided to dress

-like his hero, Owain Glyndwr.

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-There's a wonderful painting of him

-in his suit of armour...

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-..resembling Owain Glyndwr.

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-He was the honorary president...

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-..on the first day

-of the National Eisteddfod...

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-..when it came to Newport in 1897.

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-It was held on his land.

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-The Gorsedd stones

-stand in Belle View Park.

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-The eisteddfod itself was held

-at the cattle market in Pillgwenlly.

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-Godfrey Morgan

-commissioned a horn of plenty...

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-..for the 1897 Newport Eisteddfod.

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-It was commissioned

-by Lord Tredegar, Godfrey Morgan.

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-Lovely, isn't it? I think

-it belonged to a South African ox!

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-The tour of the mansion

-was wonderful.

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-It was nice to hear about

-the mansion's role in Welsh affairs.

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-This was

-Lord Tredegar's coat of arms...

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-..and the motto, "si deus nobiscum

-quis contra nos..."

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-..which means, "God be for us,

-who can be against us?"

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-I was pleased to hear there was

-so much Welsh in the house...

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-..and that one of the Charleses

-had been very prominent...

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-..in promoting the

-Welsh language through eisteddfodau.

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-Castle turrets...

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-..with the poet on top.

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-I wasn't aware that the mansion

-was so supportive of the language...

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-..and local Welsh culture as it is

-located in South East Wales.

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-The eisteddfod

-isn't the only Welsh institution...

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-..to gain from the era of mansions

-and their cultural activities.

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-Some of the nation's

-most important artefacts...

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-..are housed at the National Library

-of Wales in Aberystwyth.

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-Vaults have been built to protect

-the most precious items...

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-..from all kinds of dangers.

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-If there's a fire, the vaults emit

-a gas to extinguish the flames...

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-..and doors close on all sides.

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-You have to remember that Wales

-was once an impoverished country...

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-..in terms of its material wealth.

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-Nowadays, people visit the Tower

-of London to view the crown jewels.

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-This is what we would consider

-the treasures of the Welsh nation.

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-This is our crown jewels.

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-In the past, the mansions

-were Wales's treasuries...

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-..in terms of cultural inheritance.

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-It's where the books

-and manuscripts...

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-..acquired by

-The National Library are kept.

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-Notice that the manuscripts

-are diminutive in size.

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-Our most priceless treasure

-is the Black Book of Carmarthen.

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-It's the earliest manuscript

-of Welsh poetry...

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-..dating from the mid-13th century

-and written by an anonymous monk.

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-Originally, they collected poems

-out of personal interest.

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-They were cultured people

-who appreciated the content.

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-I also think

-it boosted social status...

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-..if you owned such treasures.

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-After all,

-you possessed something...

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-..that the man

-in the next mansion didn't have.

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-Today's aristocrats would drive

-an expensive car such as a Ferrari.

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-In the past,

-acquiring precious manuscripts...

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-..would give an aristocrat

-special status.

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-There wouldn't be

-a national library...

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-..like we have today...

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-..had it not been

-for the mansions' libraries...

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-..protecting these treasures

-over the centuries.

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-It wasn't until Wales

-established the National Library...

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-..that these treasures

-could be preserved.

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-But some treasures

-still remain in Wales's mansions...

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-..and we may not be aware

-of their existence.

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-.

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-Stradey Castle

-is one of the few mansions...

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-..along with its 1,800-acre estate,

-that belongs to the original family.

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-Mansel Lewis's family

-has made a living...

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-..from the land

-and various ventures for 200 years.

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-But the business could just as

-easily slip through their fingers.

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-You can't see the entire estate from

-here but you can see most of it.

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-We get a good view

-of the field over here.

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-Mr Hywel Morgan...

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-..has brought

-his cattle to graze here.

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-Behind us is more forestry,

-but you can't see the entire estate.

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-These mansions

-have survived for centuries...

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-..due to the fact that the nobility

-managed to retain the lands.

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-Land was considered

-a significant part of their power.

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-By owning the land,

-the gentry could govern...

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-..the surrounding area.

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-Land equalled power.

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-My father died four years ago.

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-I realized straight away...

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-..that the roof

-needed urgent attention.

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-At the same time,

-the insurance company told me...

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-..that the entire mansion

-would have to be rewired.

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-At the moment, there are two

-projects running concurrently.

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-The rewiring and the rebuilding.

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-This is the library.

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-It's my favourite room.

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-I wrote my Dafydd ap Gwilym essay

-in this room...

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-..because I could

-use the books for reference.

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-You can see there's around three

-generations' worth of clutter there!

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-What we have to do...

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-..is get rid

-of old papers and so on.

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-They will either go in the bin

-or to the National Library.

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-There's so much work to do.

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-After three years...

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-..we've only managed

-to sort out a quarter of this room.

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-Morning, Alan.

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-Morning, Alan.

-

-Morning, Patrick. Alright?

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-I am, thank you.

-Making an impression here.

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-It's looking lovely. It'll be

-a lovely job when it's finished.

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-Patrick is paying to restore

-the old farm buildings....

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-..in the hope of boosting

-the estate's rental revenue.

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-I want to fill all the buildings...

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-..so it becomes

-a modern community on the estate.

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-A new way of life

-in this part of the estate.

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-When my father

-was raised in the castle...

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-..he spent every morning...

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-..eating his breakfast

-at this table.

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-For every other meal,

-they would eat at this table.

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-We came here

-to visit my grandparents...

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-..and they'd spend

-most of their time...

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-..in this room, socializing

-and dining with friends.

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-If you look behind you...

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-..you'll see a painting...

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-..of the lake,

-and behind that is the castle.

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-It was painted

-by my grandfather's father...

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-..Charles William Mansel Lewis.

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-The painting is called

-The Enchanted Castle.

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-Despite his prowess as an artist...

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-..Charles was a poor businessman.

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-However it was a local business

-employing local people.

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-We might have

-conjured up this notion...

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-..that mansions extracted money

-from the local economies...

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-..and that the nobility

-who lived in the mansions...

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-..crossed the border

-and spent the money in London.

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-There are currently ten families

-of tenant farmers on the estate.

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-Around ten families are running

-the farms on the Stradey estate.

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-There are six members of staff.

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-They work in the office,

-the house, on maintenance...

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-..in the forest and the garden.

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-The estate was some sort of focus

-for the local economy.

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-It provided an income

-for the servants and maids...

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-..who worked at the mansion.

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-But the land also provided

-a livelihood for the tenants.

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-It was often the case

-that every family in the area...

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-..in one way or another, was

-associated with the local mansion.

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-I work Monday to Friday...

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-..from a quarter past nine...

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-..to half past two.

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-The time flies

-because there's so much to do.

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-There's plenty of cleaning to do.

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-It has to be cleaned every day.

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-I have my own routine.

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-Two days to clean upstairs...

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-..and three days

-to clean downstairs.

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-I just go around in a circle.

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-There's plenty to do.

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-I'm a secretary. I usually work

-in the office, but I'm here today.

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-I deal with any phone calls

-and write letters.

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-I do

-what any other secretary would do.

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-The work is never predictable

-which is what I like.

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-During the Victorian era...

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-..living in this house

-was both difficult and simple.

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-It was difficult for those

-who worked at the mansion...

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-..but very simple

-for the people who lived here.

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-They could relax and enjoy life.

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-If I lived here, I wouldn't clean.

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-I'd be sitting in the front room,

-sipping a cup of tea...

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-..and chatting with friends.

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-I'd leave the cleaning to a maid.

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-You'd ring the bell

-and demand a coffee!

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-Part of the family's plans

-to increase revenue...

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-..is to hold weddings...

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-..and rent out the large rooms

-for photo shoots.

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-To achieve this,

-they've created an upstairs flat...

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-..in which the family lives.

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-This is where we live as a family.

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-We spend most of our time

-in this room.

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-This room was originally a studio...

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-..for the artist,

-Charles William Mansel Lewis.

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-That's the reason

-for the skylight overhead.

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-It's in direct contrast

-to the rooms downstairs...

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-..where the decor is Victorian

-and everything is very grand.

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-This is where we like to relax.

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-It's our happy place.

0:21:420:21:44

-As the family's second son...

0:21:450:21:47

-..Rob will have to leave the estate

-and make his own way in life.

0:21:470:21:52

-His big brother, Ed,

-will stay here to run the place.

0:21:520:21:56

-The wood's all from the estate.

0:21:560:21:59

-We chop it

-because a lot of the house...

0:21:590:22:02

-..isn't attached

-to a central heating system...

0:22:020:22:07

-..which means

-we have to rely on solid fuel...

0:22:070:22:12

-..which is nice because we get to do

-this, spend time with my brothers.

0:22:120:22:17

-But then it also takes time.

0:22:180:22:20

-If you

-wound the clock back 150 years...

0:22:210:22:24

-..you'd have

-a whole array of staff...

0:22:240:22:27

-..and there would certainly be

-someone whose job it was to do this.

0:22:270:22:32

-You'd have somebody else

-to make the beds, light the fires...

0:22:320:22:36

-..and cook the meals.

0:22:370:22:39

-If you live in a house

-as a family...

0:22:390:22:41

-..you have to do

-a little bit of all those jobs.

0:22:410:22:44

-It's very stressful.

0:22:510:22:53

-How we're going to raise money

-is a constant cause for concern...

0:22:530:22:58

-..especially when it's cold.

0:22:580:23:00

-It's difficult living in this house.

0:23:010:23:05

-Sometimes I feel the burden of

-the responsibility on my shoulders.

0:23:060:23:11

-But most of the time, I'm happy

-to run the Stradey Estate.

0:23:150:23:21

-I think it's very important

-to keep this castle...

0:23:260:23:31

-..in our family...

0:23:310:23:34

-..because we're part of its history.

0:23:340:23:37

-It's important to me

-that it's kept in the family.

0:23:370:23:42

-.

0:23:470:23:48

-Subtitles

0:23:530:23:53

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:23:530:23:55

-The town council

-would like to welcome you...

0:24:000:24:02

-..to this fete, and I wish

-to open the fete officially now.

0:24:030:24:08

-A pound, yes. Thank you very much.

0:24:080:24:11

-Welcome to you all.

0:24:110:24:14

-Welcome to Abergele.

-We hope you have a nice day.

0:24:150:24:18

-On behalf of Cytun, the

-Council of Churches in Abergele...

0:24:180:24:22

-..we welcome you all.

0:24:220:24:24

-Gwrych Castle

-is familiar to those...

0:24:280:24:31

-..travelling along

-the North Wales coastline.

0:24:310:24:36

-Today the community has gathered

-within its walls to fund raise.

0:24:360:24:40

-Although the castle has since

-become a ruin, its rich history...

0:24:410:24:45

-..once placed it

-at the heart of village life.

0:24:450:24:48

-I remember having the YFC rally

-and YFC dance here.

0:24:480:24:53

-The rally was held

-at the local market...

0:24:540:24:56

-..and the dance

-was held in the castle.

0:24:570:24:59

-That was back in 1975-76.

0:25:000:25:02

-It was a great night.

0:25:020:25:04

-Everyone came to the dances

-at the castle. It was very busy.

0:25:040:25:07

-The atmosphere was fantastic.

0:25:080:25:11

-Everyone loved coming here.

0:25:110:25:13

-The castle was thriving at the time.

0:25:140:25:18

-Events, such as jousting,

-were held here on a regular basis.

0:25:180:25:22

-The place was well maintained.

0:25:220:25:25

-They say there was once a white

-marble staircase leading to nowhere.

0:25:250:25:30

-I came here

-for a Merched Y Wawr dinner.

0:25:300:25:34

-The only feature I remember

-is the beautiful staircase.

0:25:340:25:39

-My parents used to go

-to dances at the castle.

0:25:400:25:43

-That's where they met.

0:25:440:25:46

-I suppose you could say the reason

-I'm here is because of the castle!

0:25:460:25:51

-The castle has certainly brought the

-community together over the years.

0:25:520:25:57

-But before the castle deteriorated,

-it belonged to a family...

0:25:590:26:04

-..who felt it was their duty

-to do good work in the community.

0:26:040:26:08

-I'm Mark,

-I'm from the Gwrych Castle Trust.

0:26:080:26:12

-There's been a house

-on this site for many years.

0:26:120:26:16

-The earliest record is from the

-Tudor period in the 16th century...

0:26:160:26:21

-..during the reign of Elizabeth I.

0:26:210:26:24

-It was the home of the Lloyd family.

0:26:240:26:27

-The Lloyds traced their history...

0:26:270:26:30

-..back to the medieval period.

0:26:300:26:32

-The old estate was inherited

-by Lloyd Hesketh Bamford-Hesketh.

0:26:340:26:38

-The new mansion,

-built in the 19th century...

0:26:380:26:41

-..paid homage

-to his mother's Welsh roots.

0:26:410:26:44

-The Hesketh family's intention

-was to build something...

0:26:440:26:49

-..of which Wales would be proud.

0:26:490:26:51

-Before starting the building work,

-they looked around the locality.

0:26:520:26:56

-Conwy Castle

-was the nearest castle...

0:26:560:26:59

-..and I think

-that inspired the turrets.

0:26:590:27:03

-From that, the building

-developed into what it is today.

0:27:030:27:07

-The turrets were created to echo

-the castles of North Wales...

0:27:120:27:17

-..such as Conwy, Dolbadarn,

-Dolwyddelan and Rhuddlan...

0:27:170:27:21

-..as a bold statement of

-the Lloyd family's Welsh heritage.

0:27:210:27:26

-The walls were meant

-to give the impression...

0:27:260:27:29

-..that the castle was a much

-longer construction from afar.

0:27:290:27:34

-It spans a kilometre in length,

-and when you visit...

0:27:350:27:39

-..you realize that the castle itself

-isn't the only focus.

0:27:390:27:43

-Much of the fun and excitement comes

-from wandering around the walls...

0:27:440:27:49

-..and seeing the turrets.

0:27:490:27:51

-There was once a marble staircase,

-but that's gone now.

0:27:570:28:01

-All that's left of it nowadays

-are its stone walls, which is sad.

0:28:010:28:07

-The marble stairs

-were very majestic.

0:28:070:28:12

-They gave the impression

-that the castle was important.

0:28:120:28:17

-The Hesketh family's aim...

0:28:170:28:19

-..was to build an imposing structure

-in the forest above Abergele.

0:28:190:28:25

-Winifred, Countess of Dundonald,

-loved living at Gwrych Castle.

0:28:270:28:32

-She regarded herself the last

-of the Welsh Lloyd family at Gwrych.

0:28:320:28:37

-As the heiress

-of an enormous estate...

0:28:380:28:40

-..she strongly believed

-she had a duty to be charitable.

0:28:410:28:44

-The family contributed

-towards many buildings...

0:28:450:28:48

-..that characterize the area.

0:28:490:28:51

-Her philanthropy

-started at a young age.

0:28:530:28:56

-She was ten years of age when she

-laid the first stone at Llanddulas.

0:28:560:29:00

-It sparked a lifetime

-of donating land and money...

0:29:010:29:05

-..to maintain village halls, reading

-rooms, churches, vicarages...

0:29:060:29:10

-..schools and a new extension

-of Rhyl's Royal Alexandra Hospital.

0:29:100:29:15

-The devotion Winifred showed

-her community wasn't unusual.

0:29:150:29:20

-The estates of Wales

-were on a smaller scale generally...

0:29:200:29:25

-..so landowners tended

-to remain on their estates.

0:29:250:29:30

-A closer relationship evolved

-between Wales's landowners...

0:29:300:29:36

-..and their servants.

0:29:360:29:38

-Erddig is an example

-of this special relationship...

0:29:420:29:46

-..that was able to develop...

0:29:460:29:48

-..between masters and servants.

0:29:490:29:51

-It was an age-old ritual

-in the mansions to hang portraits...

0:29:510:29:55

-..of a nobleman's forefathers

-to remember those who had died...

0:29:560:30:00

-..and to chronicle the family's

-long history for visitors.

0:30:000:30:05

-Today at Erddig,

-visitors can see paintings...

0:30:080:30:12

-..depicting the love and respect

-the gentry had for their workers.

0:30:120:30:17

-Near Bangor stands Penrhyn Castle.

0:30:250:30:28

-A symbol of one family's

-oppression over its quarrymen...

0:30:280:30:32

-..who went on strike

-for better standards of living.

0:30:320:30:36

-But even here, the noble family...

0:30:360:30:40

-..took its responsibility towards

-the poor and needy seriously.

0:30:400:30:44

-I've been fortunate

-over the past year...

0:30:440:30:47

-..to peruse the personal documents

-of Penrhyn Castle's Pennant family.

0:30:480:30:53

-It gives us an ideal opportunity

-to get to know the characters...

0:30:530:30:58

-..who used to live here.

0:30:580:31:00

-They were very controversial.

0:31:000:31:02

-Finally we're

-getting a glimpse of their outlook.

0:31:030:31:06

-The discovery

-which surprised me the most...

0:31:060:31:10

-..was the deluge of letters

-they received begging for money.

0:31:100:31:14

-Hundreds and thousands

-of begging letters.

0:31:140:31:18

-Some of them were heartbreaking.

0:31:180:31:20

-It surprised me

-that the people asking for money...

0:31:210:31:24

-..didn't necessarily live

-on the Penrhyn estate.

0:31:240:31:28

-They came from all over Britain.

0:31:280:31:30

-The owners of these estates

-governed the communities.

0:31:310:31:34

-There was no welfare or NHS.

0:31:350:31:37

-The community wasn't looked after.

0:31:380:31:40

-These estates

-were responsible for them.

0:31:400:31:43

-The poor turned to the estates

-for assistance.

0:31:440:31:47

-They were crucial to the community.

0:31:480:31:50

-Catrin's research

-has uncovered a woman...

0:31:540:31:57

-..who not only fulfilled

-a charitable role...

0:31:570:32:00

-..but also ran

-the Penrhyn estate...

0:32:010:32:03

-..in an era when married women

-had no right to their own property.

0:32:040:32:09

-I'd always thought of Anne Susannah

-as an eccentric character.

0:32:090:32:13

-She was childless.

0:32:140:32:16

-Her union with Richard Pennant

-was a marriage of convenience...

0:32:160:32:20

-..since she was

-such an influential heiress.

0:32:200:32:24

-She treated her dogs as children...

0:32:240:32:26

-..and even left her dogs

-45 a year in her will...

0:32:270:32:30

-..which is a sign

-of an eccentric lady.

0:32:300:32:33

-When her husband died...

0:32:330:32:35

-..the estate was left

-with a crippling debt of 153,000.

0:32:350:32:40

-During her final years...

0:32:400:32:42

-..Anne Susannah doubled

-the profit from the quarry...

0:32:420:32:47

-..and repaid the debt in full.

0:32:470:32:49

-The Crown

-coveted this profitable business.

0:32:490:32:52

-Under her leadership...

0:32:530:32:55

-..a significant court case in her

-family's history had been averted.

0:32:550:33:00

-If Anne Susannah Warburton hadn't

-paid off her husband's debt...

0:33:000:33:04

-..if she hadn't run the estate

-as efficiently as she had done...

0:33:050:33:08

-..and if she hadn't

-fought the Crown...

0:33:090:33:11

-..it's possible that George, who

-inherited the estate after her...

0:33:120:33:16

-..wouldn't have had the money

-and the resources...

0:33:170:33:20

-..to build this opulent castle

-which stands here today.

0:33:200:33:24

-.

0:33:340:33:35

-Subtitles

0:33:380:33:38

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:33:380:33:40

-The 20th century was a bleak era

-in the history of Wales's mansions.

0:33:440:33:50

-Wales lost hundreds

-of beautiful mansions in that time.

0:33:500:33:54

-The wealthiest gentry

-still enjoyed a charmed life...

0:33:590:34:03

-..like this family at Plas Newydd.

0:34:040:34:07

-At the beginning

-of the 20th century...

0:34:080:34:12

-..the gentry still thought

-they were living in a golden age...

0:34:120:34:16

-..unaware of the fact

-that the end was nigh.

0:34:170:34:22

-The large estates had struggled...

0:34:270:34:29

-..during the final decades

-of the previous century.

0:34:290:34:33

-There was

-an agricultural recession...

0:34:330:34:36

-..forcing 300,000 workers

-to leave the land...

0:34:370:34:40

-..between 1850

-and the outbreak of WWI.

0:34:400:34:43

-It had an adverse effect

-on the gentry...

0:34:440:34:48

-..and on the mansions

-in 20th-century Wales.

0:34:490:34:53

-But the seeds had been sown

-many years beforehand.

0:34:530:34:57

-With a rise in the number

-of people allowed to vote...

0:34:570:35:01

-..the government

-introduced a new tax...

0:35:010:35:04

-..with the aim

-of creating a fairer society.

0:35:050:35:08

-By law...

0:35:100:35:13

-..the gentry had to pay a tax

-based on their land's value.

0:35:130:35:17

-The family had to pay this tax

-on the death of the landowner.

0:35:170:35:21

-If there was no cash available...

0:35:210:35:24

-..the alternative was

-to sell portions of the estate.

0:35:240:35:28

-This, in turn,

-decreased the rental revenue.

0:35:280:35:31

-Every new generation...

0:35:310:35:33

-..became poorer as a result.

0:35:340:35:36

-With many of the gentry killed

-in the trenches of the Great War...

0:35:390:35:43

-..some families had to pay the tax

-twice in a short space of time.

0:35:430:35:48

-As we wander through Wales...

0:35:530:35:55

-..we notice how many mansions

-have disappeared.

0:35:550:35:59

-Ruins across the country

-reflect that deterioration.

0:35:590:36:03

-But what have we lost

-by losing the mansion in Wales?

0:36:050:36:10

-The sad tale of Ruperra mansion

-was becoming all too common.

0:36:160:36:20

-This handsome mansion...

0:36:210:36:23

-..was home to the Morgan family heir

-until he inherited Tredegar House.

0:36:230:36:28

-Following substantial spending

-over many generations...

0:36:280:36:33

-..Ruperra went up for sale

-in the 1930s, but it went unsold.

0:36:330:36:36

-Its entire contents

-were sold at auction...

0:36:370:36:41

-..which lasted three days.

0:36:410:36:43

-The house was laid bare.

0:36:440:36:46

-During WWII, the army stayed here.

0:36:490:36:52

-On the night of Pearl Harbour,

-a fire started...

0:36:520:36:56

-..from old electrical wires and

-the mansion burned to the ground.

0:36:560:37:00

-One of the turrets fell

-during the 1980s...

0:37:010:37:04

-..and despite the efforts

-of numerous owners...

0:37:040:37:08

-..plans to save the mansion

-have been in vain.

0:37:090:37:12

-A few mansions have survived...

0:37:160:37:18

-..and are now open to the public.

0:37:190:37:21

-Llanerchaeron

-is a perfect example...

0:37:240:37:27

-..of a noble mansion...

0:37:270:37:29

-..befitting of a gentleman.

0:37:300:37:32

-Little has changed

-since the 18th century.

0:37:330:37:37

-Llanerchaeron is beautiful mansion

-in an idyllic setting.

0:37:410:37:45

-I've been a volunteer here

-since 2002.

0:37:450:37:47

-Today these clothes

-have arrived from Llangadog.

0:37:500:37:53

-Mrs Evans from Llangadog...

0:37:540:37:55

-..has donated clothes which belonged

-to an elderly gentleman.

0:37:560:38:00

-I first came here during the 1960s.

0:38:020:38:04

-There were ruins here back then.

0:38:060:38:09

-Ten generations of the same family

-have lived here.

0:38:160:38:20

-Parry was the first,

-and he came from Llanlas...

0:38:200:38:23

-..back in 1634.

0:38:230:38:26

-Ten generations have followed.

0:38:260:38:29

-His daughter

-married the first Lewis...

0:38:290:38:32

-..and the Lewis family

-has been ever since.

0:38:320:38:34

-During the last decade

-of the 18th century...

0:38:350:38:37

-..the Lewis family was thriving.

0:38:380:38:40

-They commissioned a gifted architect

-to build them a new house.

0:38:400:38:45

-He later became the royal family's

-architect of choice.

0:38:450:38:49

-John Nash was born in London

-but his parents were Welsh.

0:38:500:38:53

-He had

-financial and marital problems.

0:38:550:38:58

-He escaped to the Wild West -

-commonly known as Wales!

0:38:580:39:02

-He worked in the area for 11 years.

0:39:020:39:05

-He was given an opportunity

-to practise his own designs.

0:39:050:39:11

-When he returned to London

-in 1797...

0:39:110:39:15

-..he quickly became

-the favourite architect...

0:39:150:39:19

-..of the Prince Regent.

0:39:200:39:22

-He built Brighton Pavilion...

0:39:220:39:25

-..and parts of Buckingham Palace.

0:39:250:39:28

-He was the favourite among

-the London clique at the time.

0:39:280:39:33

-Many mansions were refurbished

-during the Victorian era.

0:39:400:39:44

-Mary Ashby Lewis,

-who was a widow, lived here.

0:39:440:39:47

-She didn't have the right

-to make any alterations...

0:39:480:39:51

-..so it remained Georgian.

0:39:510:39:53

-That's the most significant point

-about Llanerchaeron.

0:39:530:39:57

-The mansion was a private

-residence until the 1990s...

0:40:050:40:08

-..following Mr Lewis's death.

0:40:080:40:10

-During that time, the housekeeper

-and her young family lived here.

0:40:120:40:17

-I came here in 1950

-when I was 15 years old.

0:40:170:40:21

-I started work

-the day Mr Lewis turned 50.

0:40:210:40:25

-My first job that day...

0:40:270:40:29

-..was answer the front door

-and tell a lie to a vicar.

0:40:300:40:34

-He said, "I'm not home,"

-so I had to lie to the vicar.

0:40:340:40:39

-I carried out all sorts of chores

-around the house.

0:40:390:40:42

-The washing, ironing,

-cleaning and so on.

0:40:420:40:46

-There were no such thing

-as hoovers back then.

0:40:460:40:50

-I washed the floor on my knees.

0:40:500:40:53

-Thank goodness I enjoyed housework,

-that's all I can say!

0:40:530:40:57

-But I wouldn't do it now.

0:40:580:41:00

-I was here for 42 years.

0:41:000:41:02

-That's quite a long time.

0:41:030:41:05

-But it was my home.

0:41:050:41:07

-I was brought up here with

-my brother John and it was great.

0:41:080:41:13

-You and John.

0:41:130:41:15

-You and John.

-

-We did all the things children do.

0:41:150:41:17

-We played and built dens.

0:41:170:41:21

-We played football. It was great.

0:41:210:41:24

-It was a good place

-to be born and raised.

0:41:240:41:28

-I always called him Mr L.

0:41:300:41:32

-I never called him sir.

-He didn't like that.

0:41:320:41:35

-He'd say, "Sir? Good God!

-Who am I? I'm not a sir."

0:41:360:41:40

-There had to be a strict routine.

0:41:420:41:45

-He was a stickler for timekeeping.

0:41:450:41:47

-Lunch at one o'clock and he wouldn't

-drink until nine o'clock at night.

0:41:470:41:52

-He'd take out his pocket watch...

0:41:520:41:55

-..and say,

-"Oh, damn, it's only ten to nine."

0:41:550:41:58

-He enjoyed a sherry or two.

0:41:590:42:01

-Gin with lemon and barley.

0:42:010:42:03

-Gin with lemon and barley.

-

-But a sherry first.

0:42:030:42:05

-You had to make him dinner

-at 11.00pm.

0:42:050:42:08

-Yes, 11 o'clock was dinner time.

0:42:080:42:10

-He wouldn't eat the same time as us.

-He ate at 11.00pm.

0:42:100:42:14

-A regular event throughout the year

-at the mansions was the hunt.

0:42:140:42:20

-It was a Lewis ritual.

0:42:210:42:22

-The men and many of their wives...

0:42:220:42:26

-..hunted foxes and otters.

0:42:260:42:29

-They fished in the River Aeron.

0:42:290:42:31

-It was teeming with fish back them.

0:42:320:42:35

-If there was a shortage here...

0:42:350:42:38

-..they'd go to another estate

-belonging to someone they knew...

0:42:380:42:43

-..such as Llanllyr,

-the Hafod or Nanteos...

0:42:430:42:46

-..and spent the day hunting there...

0:42:460:42:49

-..and hunted for hares at Nanteos.

0:42:490:42:52

-You let the otters go.

0:42:560:42:58

-Yes, I'd go to the riverbank...

0:42:580:43:01

-..and fan the smell away

-to put the dogs off the scent.

0:43:010:43:05

-I don't know how many got away.

0:43:050:43:07

-I remember once at Borth bog

-when I was 21.

0:43:070:43:11

-It was the day after

-my 21st birthday and a bank holiday.

0:43:110:43:15

-"If you catch one today,

-I'll have the head mounted."

0:43:150:43:19

-Thank you very much, that's

-the last thing I wanted in my house.

0:43:190:43:23

-But I didn't say a word.

0:43:230:43:25

-We spotted an otter

-and he killed it.

0:43:260:43:29

-The thing is in a box

-in Pandy somewhere.

0:43:300:43:33

-Goodness me! No, thank you!

0:43:330:43:35

-There are several

-mounted on the wall in the hall.

0:43:350:43:39

-But that was his hobby.

0:43:390:43:41

-When was that, Sheila?

0:43:410:43:43

-The 1890s? 1900s?

0:43:430:43:46

-The First World War.

0:43:470:43:49

-Is that right?!

0:43:490:43:51

-Mr Ponsonby Lewes died in 1989...

0:43:560:43:59

-..and he left the estate...

0:43:590:44:01

-..the house and its contents

-to the National Trust.

0:44:020:44:05

-A lot of work had to be carried out.

0:44:050:44:08

-The roof had been leaking

-for several years.

0:44:080:44:12

-Nobody used this floor.

0:44:130:44:15

-Mr Lewes was on the ground floor...

0:44:160:44:18

-..because the rain

-had rotted the woodwork.

0:44:190:44:22

-It took ten years...

0:44:230:44:25

-..to restore the house.

0:44:250:44:27

-If the National Trust

-hadn't taken on the house...

0:44:280:44:31

-..it would have become a ruin.

0:44:320:44:34

-It was too dilapidated

-for a person to buy...

0:44:340:44:37

-..as a nursing home, a hotel

-or any business venture.

0:44:380:44:43

-It required too much work.

0:44:430:44:45

-It's changed completely.

0:44:530:44:55

-This is where

-the Christmas decorations hung.

0:44:550:44:58

-It's completely different here.

0:44:580:45:02

-It's the same old Esse.

0:45:020:45:03

-It's the same old Esse.

-

-I know. Lovely!

0:45:030:45:05

-It's old

-but it was used to heat the water...

0:45:050:45:09

-..and used for cooking.

0:45:090:45:11

-The table used to be here.

0:45:130:45:15

-Yes, up there...

0:45:150:45:17

-..and the dresser used to be there.

0:45:180:45:20

-You have a photograph...

0:45:200:45:22

-..of the tenants sitting around

-the table at harvest.

0:45:230:45:27

-Yes, they had lunch here...

0:45:270:45:29

-..and dinner at night.

0:45:290:45:31

-After dinner here...

0:45:320:45:33

-..they'd all have a glass of whisky.

0:45:340:45:36

-Say you had a glass that size...

0:45:370:45:39

-..there was only enough room

-for that much water.

0:45:390:45:42

-The rest was whisky.

0:45:420:45:44

-I have a lot of fond memories.

0:45:450:45:47

-It was really nice, wasn't it?

0:45:480:45:50

-It's nice looking back.

0:45:500:45:52

-It's a shame

-that life has to change.

0:45:520:45:57

-It's all become

-too modern these days.

0:45:570:46:01

-We had real fun back then.

0:46:010:46:03

-They say they were tough times

-but they were happy times.

0:46:030:46:07

-The most obvious loss in Wales as

-a result of the loss of mansions...

0:46:140:46:19

-..is the basic injustice

-in society.

0:46:200:46:23

-The premise that one family

-ruled over the community.

0:46:240:46:29

-That's certainly disappeared...

0:46:290:46:33

-..along with the Welsh mansion.

0:46:330:46:36

-Perhaps this injustice is to blame

-for the neglect of these mansions.

0:46:390:46:45

-Since taking these photographs...

0:46:490:46:51

-..each of these historic treasures

-has disappeared into oblivion.

0:46:510:46:56

-Before the rest disappear...

0:47:010:47:04

-..there's still a chance to

-understand their true significance.

0:47:040:47:09

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:47:290:47:32

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0:47:320:47:33

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