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All over the world there are remarkable hotels, | 0:00:02 | 0:00:05 | |
born of bold vision and daring endeavour. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:07 | |
(Oh, my goodness, look at that.) | 0:00:09 | 0:00:11 | |
Whether it's an epic structure housing a sky park the length of | 0:00:12 | 0:00:15 | |
the Eiffel Tower... | 0:00:15 | 0:00:17 | |
This is definitely the biggest space I've ever been inside. | 0:00:17 | 0:00:19 | |
..or a glass box perched in the cloud forest. | 0:00:22 | 0:00:25 | |
-Look at that view. -Wow. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:27 | |
They're all products of innovation, creativity and hard graft. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:33 | |
The people running these hotels strive to create | 0:00:34 | 0:00:37 | |
the perfect sanctuary. | 0:00:37 | 0:00:38 | |
But what does it take to offer once-in-a-lifetime experiences | 0:00:39 | 0:00:44 | |
in stunning locations? | 0:00:44 | 0:00:46 | |
To build a hotel in a place like this, | 0:00:46 | 0:00:47 | |
everybody thinks I'm crazy. | 0:00:47 | 0:00:49 | |
In total, we have about 160,000 pieces of uniform. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:55 | |
-BELL CHIMES -Oh, my word. | 0:00:55 | 0:00:57 | |
I'm a restaurant writer, newspaper columnist and critic - | 0:00:58 | 0:01:00 | |
I have opinions on just about everything. | 0:01:00 | 0:01:03 | |
What a mad place to build a hotel. | 0:01:03 | 0:01:05 | |
I feel like Scott of the Antarctic, and it did not end well for him. | 0:01:05 | 0:01:09 | |
And I'm a chef, who's worked at the top end of the hospitality industry | 0:01:09 | 0:01:13 | |
for well over 20 years. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:14 | |
How many opportunities do you get to cook breakfast | 0:01:14 | 0:01:17 | |
with elephants and giraffes? | 0:01:17 | 0:01:19 | |
We'll travel to amazing hotels in every corner of the world... | 0:01:21 | 0:01:25 | |
..to spend time getting to know the people working away | 0:01:25 | 0:01:28 | |
behind the scenes. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:29 | |
When did you last have a full night's sleep? | 0:01:29 | 0:01:31 | |
-I don't remember. -Really? | 0:01:31 | 0:01:33 | |
Yes. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:34 | |
What motivates you to work so hard? | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
-The kids. -The kids. -I'll sacrifice everything for them. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:39 | |
CHEERING | 0:01:39 | 0:01:41 | |
Join us as we venture inside... | 0:01:41 | 0:01:44 | |
..the world's most extraordinary hotels. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:49 | |
This is Fogo Island, | 0:01:56 | 0:01:59 | |
and it feels very far away. | 0:01:59 | 0:02:01 | |
It's taken us two days of travel by air, road, | 0:02:02 | 0:02:05 | |
and sea to get to this remote, rocky outpost. | 0:02:05 | 0:02:08 | |
Perched off the east coast of Canada, and above Newfoundland, | 0:02:09 | 0:02:13 | |
Fogo is a tiny island, | 0:02:13 | 0:02:14 | |
only 15 miles long, | 0:02:14 | 0:02:16 | |
with the weather extremes of a continent. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:18 | |
It can hit 25 degrees here in the summer, | 0:02:21 | 0:02:24 | |
but in winter the sea freezes over. | 0:02:24 | 0:02:26 | |
There are 11 small communities dotted across the island, | 0:02:28 | 0:02:33 | |
people from Europe having settling here in the 18th century | 0:02:33 | 0:02:36 | |
for one reason and one reason only - | 0:02:36 | 0:02:39 | |
the abundant supply of cod. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:41 | |
At first glance, and indeed at second and third glance, | 0:02:43 | 0:02:46 | |
Fogo looks barren and inhospitable, | 0:02:46 | 0:02:49 | |
so why would anyone want to build a hotel on these storm-lashed rocks at | 0:02:49 | 0:02:53 | |
the very edge of the world? | 0:02:53 | 0:02:55 | |
Especially one that's expensive, exclusive, | 0:03:05 | 0:03:08 | |
and at a cost of over £20 million. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:11 | |
Wow. Well, I, erm... | 0:03:16 | 0:03:19 | |
I wasn't expecting that. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:21 | |
It doesn't look an awful lot like a hotel, but just huge and angular. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:26 | |
On stilts! | 0:03:27 | 0:03:28 | |
Wow. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:30 | |
Amazing. It really does stand out from the landscape. | 0:03:30 | 0:03:34 | |
I think it's, sort of, beautiful. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:36 | |
The Fogo Island Inn is the brainchild of Zita Cobb | 0:03:39 | 0:03:41 | |
and her family. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:43 | |
It's a passionate, personal project, | 0:03:43 | 0:03:45 | |
but Zita humbly refers to herself as the innkeeper. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:48 | |
Now, what is that umbrella doing? | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
We're going to hide it in the closet. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:52 | |
You only need them when it's raining, | 0:03:52 | 0:03:54 | |
and, until then, they're just litter, | 0:03:54 | 0:03:56 | |
and they need to be hid away in the closet, | 0:03:56 | 0:03:58 | |
and never opened up inside. | 0:03:58 | 0:03:59 | |
This is Zita's first foray into the hotel business. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
We, at our inn, we don't have a rule book. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:11 | |
We practise hospitality, you know, in a way that doesn't seem like | 0:04:11 | 0:04:16 | |
it's professional, in the industry sense of the word, | 0:04:16 | 0:04:20 | |
but it's entirely natural | 0:04:20 | 0:04:23 | |
and entirely human. | 0:04:23 | 0:04:25 | |
-Hello. -Welcome to the Fogo Island Inn. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
Thank you. Oh, I like the looks of that fire. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:37 | |
Oh, it's nice and warm in here. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:42 | |
'Coming in from the fierce cold, this place feels | 0:04:42 | 0:04:44 | |
'cosy and welcoming.' | 0:04:44 | 0:04:45 | |
'There are 29 rooms, and the inn employs 110 members of staff. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:52 | |
'The impressive dining room has two walls of glass that offer | 0:04:53 | 0:04:56 | |
'spectacular views out across the Atlantic.' | 0:04:56 | 0:04:58 | |
'A room here costs between £1,000 and £2,500 per night. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:03 | |
'This place is not only the most expensive hotel on the island, | 0:05:05 | 0:05:09 | |
'it's the only hotel on the island.' | 0:05:09 | 0:05:11 | |
And here is your key, sir. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:14 | |
-Thank you very much. -You're welcome. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:16 | |
'We'll be staying in guest rooms, | 0:05:18 | 0:05:20 | |
'before being immersed into hotel life.' | 0:05:20 | 0:05:23 | |
Beautiful. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:24 | |
Wow. Look at that view. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:27 | |
'The ancestors of some of the staff here came from the southern coast of | 0:05:29 | 0:05:32 | |
'England and the west of Ireland over 300 years ago, | 0:05:32 | 0:05:36 | |
'and they speak with the island's unique local accent - | 0:05:36 | 0:05:40 | |
'part Canadian, part Dorset, with an Irish twang for good measure, | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
'it can take a bit of getting used to.' | 0:05:44 | 0:05:47 | |
-A lot of people ask if we're twins, or sisters. -A lot. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
We get that a lot, | 0:05:50 | 0:05:52 | |
and, as you see, we finish one another's sentences a lot, | 0:05:52 | 0:05:56 | |
and we even go sync mopping together, | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
because we're that much alike that we can do that together, so... | 0:05:59 | 0:06:02 | |
'Now, in case you didn't catch that, | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
'people often ask these eighth-generation islanders, | 0:06:04 | 0:06:06 | |
'Lori and Cynthia, if they're twins. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
'They're not, | 0:06:09 | 0:06:10 | |
'but they are sisters who finish each other's sentences. | 0:06:10 | 0:06:13 | |
'Oh, and they enjoy synchronised mopping.' | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
We actually walked in together, side-by-side, | 0:06:16 | 0:06:18 | |
and years later we're still side-by-side, | 0:06:18 | 0:06:21 | |
so, it's great - it's a great relationship. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
We can work together really, really well, | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
so I like it, and I think she do, too, so... | 0:06:25 | 0:06:29 | |
Oh, yeah, loves it. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:31 | |
Everything was back from years ago. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:33 | |
We have Miss Zita to thank for that. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
Zita's inspired by the old-time look, | 0:06:35 | 0:06:38 | |
and I think she hit it on the head when she designed these rooms. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:42 | |
Everything is beautiful, | 0:06:42 | 0:06:43 | |
from this tiny woodstove to the wallpaper to the chairs to the | 0:06:43 | 0:06:47 | |
old-fashioned quilts. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:48 | |
Even I ain't got home-made quilts, and wallpaper. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
Nobody has wallpaper in their house any more, | 0:06:51 | 0:06:53 | |
but this wallpaper was made for here and it's beautiful. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:56 | |
And the inn really does offer a place to put what we know. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:04 | |
Nearly everything here, from the furniture to the upholstery, | 0:07:05 | 0:07:08 | |
Zita's had locally made, | 0:07:08 | 0:07:10 | |
with the ambition of giving the Fogo vernacular a modern twist. | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
The result is a place that feels comfortingly familiar. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:18 | |
We've had guests say that, | 0:07:18 | 0:07:19 | |
"Actually, it's just like walking back into my grandmother's house." | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
And the view just tops it off. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:24 | |
Everyone's amazed with the view. | 0:07:24 | 0:07:26 | |
You get icebergs, whales jumping out of the water... | 0:07:26 | 0:07:29 | |
Just beautiful. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:31 | |
It's a whale, or possibly an island. | 0:07:31 | 0:07:33 | |
Peaceful. Something I could sit down and watch all day. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:38 | |
Oh, look, there's a scarf here for me. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
That is so sweet. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:44 | |
We'd go out of our way to please all of the guests, | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
and whatever they request, we try to make sure it's done for them. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:52 | |
It's a dictionary of Newfoundland English. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:54 | |
I'm not selecting these - | 0:07:56 | 0:07:57 | |
I'm literally putting my finger on the first word I see. | 0:07:57 | 0:07:59 | |
This one is scrubber - | 0:07:59 | 0:08:01 | |
"A board or fender bar along the side of a boat or vessel | 0:08:01 | 0:08:04 | |
"to protect the hull from scraping." | 0:08:04 | 0:08:05 | |
Hence the expression in Newfoundland, | 0:08:05 | 0:08:07 | |
"You won't get far around here without a scrubber." | 0:08:07 | 0:08:09 | |
"Hot ass - a tin kettle with a large, flat bottom | 0:08:09 | 0:08:12 | |
"and sides tapering to the top." | 0:08:12 | 0:08:14 | |
That is genius. So, I can call down to reception, | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
"Can you send up a couple of hot asses?" | 0:08:17 | 0:08:19 | |
This is really pretty. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:21 | |
Oh, look, here we go. | 0:08:24 | 0:08:25 | |
Made by Millicent Dwyer, 2015, on Fogo Island. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:32 | |
That is so sweet. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:34 | |
We've had some famous people, | 0:08:38 | 0:08:40 | |
and I'm sure we'll have more. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:42 | |
We've had politicians, and Hollywood movie stars, yes, we've had, | 0:08:42 | 0:08:47 | |
but I shall not say the names. | 0:08:47 | 0:08:49 | |
'Sorry, Cynthia, but I've looked it up, and it was Gwyneth Paltrow, | 0:08:50 | 0:08:53 | |
'a couple of months ago.' | 0:08:53 | 0:08:54 | |
You need to see this. You need to see this. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:58 | |
I mean, I'm not a loo fetishist. I wouldn't normally bother, but... | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
TOILET CHIMES | 0:09:01 | 0:09:03 | |
I do love a lavatory that says hello when you walk into the room. | 0:09:03 | 0:09:07 | |
TOILET CHIMES | 0:09:07 | 0:09:09 | |
We want the chair inviting to sit in, so we pouf it up. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:12 | |
Oh, my goodness. | 0:09:18 | 0:09:21 | |
Oh, that is so soft and comfortable. | 0:09:21 | 0:09:24 | |
Yeah, I'm right at home here. | 0:09:24 | 0:09:25 | |
It's a great job. Some people don't look at housekeeping as a great job, | 0:09:26 | 0:09:31 | |
but I do - I love it at housekeeping. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:32 | |
-Yeah. -I love cleaning, so... | 0:09:32 | 0:09:33 | |
-But it's not like cleaning your own home. -No, it's not. It's different. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
There's no baggage. | 0:09:36 | 0:09:38 | |
That's our finished product, waiting for our guest. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:42 | |
Wouldn't you want to get in that bed? I would. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:44 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:09:44 | 0:09:46 | |
'If we're to understand why this Martian spacecraft on stilts | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
'has been built out here on the rocks, then the best person to ask | 0:09:51 | 0:09:55 | |
'is the architect, Todd Saunders.' | 0:09:55 | 0:09:57 | |
-Hey, Todd. -Hi, Giles. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:00 | |
Do you do this often, come out here and have a fire? | 0:10:00 | 0:10:03 | |
Every now and then. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:04 | |
Every now and then I come out and have a cup of coffee | 0:10:04 | 0:10:06 | |
with some of the other people around. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:08 | |
And admire your handiwork? | 0:10:08 | 0:10:09 | |
I try to. | 0:10:09 | 0:10:10 | |
'Zita picked Todd both for his talent | 0:10:12 | 0:10:15 | |
'and because he's a local boy with local knowledge.' | 0:10:15 | 0:10:18 | |
I grew up here. I knew the scent, the smells, the berries, | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
the food we ate, I knew the type of people here, | 0:10:21 | 0:10:24 | |
and so I didn't need any explanation of what | 0:10:24 | 0:10:26 | |
-Newfoundland architecture could be. -Yeah. | 0:10:26 | 0:10:29 | |
Tell me about the stilts. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:30 | |
That's a bit of a homage to the past. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:33 | |
All of the buildings are built on little stilts, | 0:10:33 | 0:10:35 | |
cos they didn't have sand here, actually, to do concrete, | 0:10:35 | 0:10:37 | |
and the fishermen didn't have time to make foundations, | 0:10:37 | 0:10:39 | |
so the fastest way to do it was to just put them on | 0:10:39 | 0:10:42 | |
these wooden poles, make a flat level, | 0:10:42 | 0:10:44 | |
and then build the building above it. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:45 | |
They're not all straight. | 0:10:46 | 0:10:48 | |
Some of them are at angles | 0:10:48 | 0:10:49 | |
-Is that an aesthetic thing? -Yeah, yeah... | 0:10:49 | 0:10:51 | |
It was a bit...the way they always did them. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:53 | |
They never did them perfectly straight - | 0:10:53 | 0:10:54 | |
it was more a haphazard thing. | 0:10:54 | 0:10:56 | |
So, the buildings actually have this amphibious quality to them, | 0:10:56 | 0:10:59 | |
and they look like they're half on land and half in the water. | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
'In 2008, this exposed location was chosen for the inn. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:09 | |
'Construction began with steel, concrete, and black spruce, | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
'a design built to withstand the test of time and weather. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
'The inn took three years to complete, | 0:11:19 | 0:11:22 | |
'using around 70% locally-sourced materials, | 0:11:22 | 0:11:25 | |
'and the 450 passionately committed people involved in realising | 0:11:25 | 0:11:29 | |
'the project all had to adhere to one golden rule - | 0:11:29 | 0:11:32 | |
'it had to feel familiar, but modern.' | 0:11:32 | 0:11:35 | |
There's a special feeling about a Newfoundland home, | 0:11:37 | 0:11:39 | |
and we couldn't put our finger on it. | 0:11:39 | 0:11:40 | |
We said, "You know, everything on | 0:11:40 | 0:11:42 | |
"this island was from this island before." | 0:11:42 | 0:11:44 | |
So we said, "OK, everything in this inn will be made on the island." | 0:11:44 | 0:11:47 | |
So everything is made out of the workshop just up the road. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
Were you made on the island? | 0:11:50 | 0:11:51 | |
-I was about an hour away from here. -Really? | 0:11:51 | 0:11:53 | |
In the back-seat of a Volkswagen Beetle. | 0:11:53 | 0:11:57 | |
Hello, how are you? | 0:12:02 | 0:12:05 | |
-I'm good. -Welcome back. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:06 | |
'Todd's architecture is clearly having an impact. | 0:12:06 | 0:12:09 | |
'The inn has only been open a few years, | 0:12:09 | 0:12:11 | |
'and already there are returning guests. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:14 | |
'Janet Fitzpatrick, a psychiatrist from the mainland, | 0:12:14 | 0:12:17 | |
'is on her eighth visit.' | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
I come here and there's just a peace that comes over me. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:21 | |
As soon as I walk in this inn, I feel... | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
-SHE INHALES -..I can breathe. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:26 | |
And you speak very highly of the people that are here. | 0:12:26 | 0:12:28 | |
-The people are fantastic... -Yeah. -..and they love this island. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
Everybody here loves where they live. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
You come and stay here for a few days and you understand that - | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
you understand that feeling. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:38 | |
I mean, the thing I really hope that every person that comes to | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
the inn gets a really strong sense of is place - | 0:12:41 | 0:12:46 | |
place, place, place. | 0:12:46 | 0:12:47 | |
Zita's ambition for the inn is to reflect everything that's special | 0:12:49 | 0:12:53 | |
about this island in terms of nature and culture, | 0:12:53 | 0:12:57 | |
right down to the food. | 0:12:57 | 0:12:59 | |
Our job is to do our best to put Fogo Island on a plate. | 0:12:59 | 0:13:03 | |
Our food should taste like Fogo Island. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:06 | |
'I want to discover what the island's specialties are | 0:13:07 | 0:13:09 | |
'and how the kitchen is using them...' | 0:13:09 | 0:13:12 | |
Can I get a quick run for table 21, please? | 0:13:12 | 0:13:14 | |
That's dairy-free. | 0:13:14 | 0:13:15 | |
'..so I'm joining the two chefs entrusted by Zita to uphold | 0:13:15 | 0:13:18 | |
'her local culinary vision, | 0:13:18 | 0:13:21 | |
'for lunchtime service. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:23 | |
'Ian Sheridan...' | 0:13:23 | 0:13:24 | |
It's a happy, loving kitchen. | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
'..and Tim Charles.' | 0:13:26 | 0:13:28 | |
It's going to get some kale. | 0:13:28 | 0:13:29 | |
-Is this for three? So, I want enough kale for three, as well? -Yes. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
It feels good to be doing something I know. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:39 | |
'It doesn't take long before I find out | 0:13:40 | 0:13:42 | |
'just what's so special about this island. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:45 | |
'What looks at first glance like a barren landscape is | 0:13:45 | 0:13:48 | |
'an incredible larder of wild ingredients, | 0:13:48 | 0:13:51 | |
'right under the nose of the inn.' | 0:13:51 | 0:13:53 | |
Look at that. | 0:13:54 | 0:13:55 | |
The hotel's just there, and you've got juniper out here. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:58 | |
It's right underneath the dining room. | 0:13:58 | 0:14:00 | |
'Unbelievably, there are 16 varieties of edible berry | 0:14:00 | 0:14:04 | |
'growing wild here on Fogo, but the boys want to show me | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
'by far the most important food here that encapsulates the island - | 0:14:07 | 0:14:12 | |
'cod.' | 0:14:12 | 0:14:13 | |
We'll receive them like this, and then we'll | 0:14:16 | 0:14:18 | |
break them down into portions, | 0:14:18 | 0:14:19 | |
and then we'll take and trim bits, and use them that way. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:22 | |
I love cod, as well - it's one of my favourite fish. | 0:14:25 | 0:14:29 | |
It's the reason why everyone's on the island in the first place - | 0:14:29 | 0:14:32 | |
they came for the fish and they stayed for the fish. | 0:14:32 | 0:14:34 | |
-Dead centre? -Put it all over the rim. | 0:14:36 | 0:14:39 | |
All over the rim? | 0:14:39 | 0:14:40 | |
I'm kidding. | 0:14:40 | 0:14:41 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:14:41 | 0:14:43 | |
That's one of my pet hates! | 0:14:44 | 0:14:46 | |
That's it, you and I, we're over. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:52 | |
-Splatter... -Yeah, delete my number off your phone. | 0:14:52 | 0:14:55 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:14:55 | 0:14:57 | |
'Both Tim and Ian are from mainland Canada, | 0:14:57 | 0:15:00 | |
'and Zita knows they bring in valuable skills to the inn.' | 0:15:00 | 0:15:03 | |
There's a whole bunch of things we just don't know, | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
and, with every person that comes to this island, | 0:15:06 | 0:15:08 | |
they bring a whole other world - | 0:15:08 | 0:15:11 | |
a whole other, kind of way, of knowing that is new | 0:15:11 | 0:15:14 | |
and makes us stronger. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:16 | |
'The inn overlooks traditional fishing grounds, | 0:15:21 | 0:15:24 | |
'but it's at the mercy of the weather. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:27 | |
'They say there are seven seasons on Fogo, | 0:15:27 | 0:15:29 | |
'and this building must endure sub-zero temperatures, | 0:15:29 | 0:15:32 | |
'hurricane winds, downpours, and burning sunshine. | 0:15:32 | 0:15:36 | |
'The man battling to stop the place from being consumed by the elements | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
'is maintenance supremo Don Paul, who's also from the mainland.' | 0:15:42 | 0:15:46 | |
Now, that's salt water in the air, I would say. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:48 | |
'Don's going to show me how he keeps the inn | 0:15:50 | 0:15:52 | |
'from succumbing to the weather - | 0:15:52 | 0:15:54 | |
'as long as he's got a pair of wellies in my size.' | 0:15:54 | 0:15:57 | |
Can I fill your boots, Don? That's the question. | 0:15:57 | 0:15:59 | |
I'd be really appreciative if you could. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:01 | |
-Really? -Yes. -Do you think I'd be genuinely helpful? | 0:16:01 | 0:16:03 | |
-What are we doing? -Oh, truly. You're going to need this. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:06 | |
-I'm going to get wet, you're saying? -You could. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:08 | |
Better to be looking at it, as I always say, than looking for it. | 0:16:08 | 0:16:12 | |
-How do I look? -You look great. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
I wouldn't want my Savile Row tailored shirts to get | 0:16:15 | 0:16:18 | |
-crust on them. -That's right. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:19 | |
'Today, we're concentrating on the sea spray that sticks to the windows | 0:16:22 | 0:16:26 | |
'and must be scraped off continually | 0:16:26 | 0:16:28 | |
'so that guests can enjoy a crust-free view.' | 0:16:28 | 0:16:31 | |
So, in this game, it's all about length, is it? | 0:16:31 | 0:16:33 | |
Length is what it is all about when you've got to go reach for the top. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:37 | |
GEORGE FORMBY: # Now I go cleanin' windows | 0:16:39 | 0:16:41 | |
# To earn an honest bob | 0:16:41 | 0:16:43 | |
# For a nosy parker It's an interesting job... # | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
GILES: # It's a job that just suits me | 0:16:46 | 0:16:47 | |
# A window cleaner you would be | 0:16:47 | 0:16:49 | |
# If you could see what I can see | 0:16:49 | 0:16:51 | |
BOTH: # When I'm cleaning windows. # | 0:16:51 | 0:16:53 | |
It's hard on the neck. I think this is the hardest part of the job. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
It must be a thankless task. | 0:16:56 | 0:16:58 | |
The ocean is there, just depositing salt, | 0:16:58 | 0:16:59 | |
and all you can do is keep wiping it away. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:01 | |
That's job security. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:02 | |
Ha! It is. I guess it is. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:05 | |
Does a building of this sort present particular problems? | 0:17:05 | 0:17:07 | |
Well, in the wind, it can... | 0:17:07 | 0:17:10 | |
The wind shear can actually remove boards. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
We've got a few loose boards that rattle that we have to keep nailing | 0:17:13 | 0:17:16 | |
down, and battening the hatches. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:18 | |
And once we had a skylight come adrift, | 0:17:18 | 0:17:21 | |
-which was a bit of a problem, so... -Oh, dear. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:23 | |
What's that? Shoddy building work in the first place? | 0:17:23 | 0:17:25 | |
Well, I can't say that. I think... | 0:17:25 | 0:17:27 | |
Yes, you can. | 0:17:27 | 0:17:28 | |
No, it wasn't. | 0:17:28 | 0:17:30 | |
-Good, I'm glad to hear it. -It wasn't. | 0:17:30 | 0:17:31 | |
It just was that the screws broke in the wind. | 0:17:31 | 0:17:33 | |
It was a hurricane. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:35 | |
I mean, basically, is this like a frontiersman thing? | 0:17:35 | 0:17:37 | |
You know, out here, in the middle of nowhere, if you'll forgive me, | 0:17:37 | 0:17:40 | |
small population, not so many specialists... | 0:17:40 | 0:17:42 | |
-You have to basically be able to do everything? -Correct. | 0:17:42 | 0:17:44 | |
We have to, as Zita says, "treat this as a ship in the ocean", | 0:17:44 | 0:17:48 | |
and we have to have all our spare parts | 0:17:48 | 0:17:50 | |
-and all our skill sets in place. -You're the engineer. | 0:17:50 | 0:17:53 | |
You're like Scotty in Star Trek, aren't you? | 0:17:53 | 0:17:55 | |
Precisely, I've been called that. | 0:17:55 | 0:17:56 | |
I see the comparison. Kind of heroic, keeping it all going... | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
IN SCOTTISH ACCENT: "She couldnae take any more, Jim!" | 0:17:59 | 0:18:01 | |
"The dilithium crystals are failing!" | 0:18:01 | 0:18:03 | |
So, when Zita says she wants you to go to warp factor seven... | 0:18:03 | 0:18:06 | |
"You cannae change the laws of physics!" | 0:18:06 | 0:18:08 | |
-"You can't, but you have to find a way to do it, laddie." -Yeah. | 0:18:08 | 0:18:13 | |
So, Don, you haven't got that Irish twang. | 0:18:13 | 0:18:15 | |
You haven't got anything Newfie about the way you speak, | 0:18:15 | 0:18:17 | |
so, what, you're from the mainland, I guess? | 0:18:17 | 0:18:19 | |
I'm actually from the west coast of Canada. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:21 | |
I grew up in British Columbia in the mountains of the Kootenays. | 0:18:21 | 0:18:25 | |
-So how did you come to be here? -Well, simply put, I fell in love. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:29 | |
Not only with the island, | 0:18:29 | 0:18:31 | |
but when I first came here on a visit, | 0:18:31 | 0:18:34 | |
I walked into the Partridgeberry Harvest Festival | 0:18:34 | 0:18:36 | |
and my eyes met with this wonderful artist, M'Liz Keefe, | 0:18:36 | 0:18:40 | |
who was here, and it was love at first sight. | 0:18:40 | 0:18:43 | |
I know they say it's not...but it truly happens. | 0:18:43 | 0:18:45 | |
'Don and M'Liz were recently married - | 0:18:47 | 0:18:50 | |
'a cause for celebration for all at the inn.' | 0:18:50 | 0:18:52 | |
How long does it take to do the whole building? | 0:18:55 | 0:18:57 | |
You know, you'd be surprised. Just to do this bottom section, | 0:18:57 | 0:19:00 | |
like we've been going through, two guys can do it in two hours. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:05 | |
As long as one of the two guys isn't me, I suppose? | 0:19:05 | 0:19:07 | |
Well... Thank you, sir. | 0:19:07 | 0:19:09 | |
You're welcome. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:10 | |
'On remote islands like Fogo, | 0:19:13 | 0:19:14 | |
'it's important to be as self-sufficient as possible - | 0:19:14 | 0:19:18 | |
'not just in terms of the skills needed to live here, | 0:19:18 | 0:19:21 | |
'but also when it comes to sourcing food. | 0:19:21 | 0:19:23 | |
'One islander who supplies the kitchen | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
'with his home-grown vegetables is Norm Foley, whose Irish ancestors | 0:19:29 | 0:19:33 | |
'settled here in the 18th century. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:35 | |
'But how do you grow crops in this landscape? | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
'I've been told that Norm employs a weird technique | 0:19:40 | 0:19:43 | |
'involving small fish called capelin.' | 0:19:43 | 0:19:47 | |
One, two, three... | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
Very important food around here, capelin. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:53 | |
The ocean comes alive when the capelin comes in on our shore. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:57 | |
The codfish would never come - only for the capelin. | 0:19:57 | 0:19:59 | |
The whales... | 0:19:59 | 0:20:01 | |
And you're using it as fertiliser? | 0:20:01 | 0:20:02 | |
I'm using it as fertiliser. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:05 | |
-And this is an ancient way? -This... | 0:20:05 | 0:20:07 | |
This is the way my dad and my grandfather and so on and so forth. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:12 | |
Burying fish in the garden. | 0:20:12 | 0:20:16 | |
Wow. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:17 | |
There's a first for everything. | 0:20:17 | 0:20:19 | |
'And it works - | 0:20:19 | 0:20:21 | |
'Norm produces an abundant crop of kale, carrots, potatoes, | 0:20:21 | 0:20:25 | |
'and parsnips...' | 0:20:25 | 0:20:26 | |
Wiggle back and forth. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:28 | |
'..some of which make their way onto the plates of | 0:20:28 | 0:20:30 | |
'the diners at the inn.' | 0:20:30 | 0:20:31 | |
This is the real test. | 0:20:31 | 0:20:34 | |
Come on, you're not... | 0:20:34 | 0:20:35 | |
-I've got it! -Put some muscle into it! | 0:20:35 | 0:20:37 | |
I wants to grab that some bad.... | 0:20:37 | 0:20:39 | |
No, you can't! It's mine. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
-Wahey! -Hey! | 0:20:42 | 0:20:43 | |
Yeah! Look at that. | 0:20:43 | 0:20:45 | |
-Did you ever see the like of that? -No. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:48 | |
'But it's not just gardening that connects Norm to the Fogo Inn - | 0:20:50 | 0:20:54 | |
'he's also a community host, looking after guests that stay there. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:58 | |
'It's a venture set up by Zita that aims to showcase | 0:20:58 | 0:21:01 | |
'the island's culture and its people. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:04 | |
'Locals from all walks of life - the quilt makers, | 0:21:04 | 0:21:07 | |
'the boat builders, even fishermen - act as island hosts...' | 0:21:07 | 0:21:12 | |
You just keep the...keep the same depth, and just back and forth. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:15 | |
'..befriending guests and making them feel part of the Fogo family.' | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
It's like putting everything we know into something - | 0:21:19 | 0:21:21 | |
believing deeply in ourselves, but hoping that others in the world | 0:21:21 | 0:21:27 | |
see the value in our culture, | 0:21:27 | 0:21:29 | |
see merit in what we have to tell, or say, or show. | 0:21:29 | 0:21:34 | |
Someone actually asked how much we get paid to act this way, | 0:21:35 | 0:21:38 | |
and we said, "No, this is just natural. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:40 | |
"This is the Newfoundland way." | 0:21:40 | 0:21:43 | |
It's putting yourself out there in a really, kind of, big way, | 0:21:43 | 0:21:47 | |
as a community. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:48 | |
For Zita, the inn is an extension of the island. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:52 | |
Girls, does it get better than this? | 0:21:52 | 0:21:54 | |
-No. -It doesn't? | 0:21:54 | 0:21:55 | |
-No, no. -It doesn't. -No. | 0:21:55 | 0:21:57 | |
But all is not quite what it seems. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:03 | |
What looks like a paradise to guests on holiday is actually a community | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
facing very real challenges. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:08 | |
The population of Fogo has been in decline. | 0:22:09 | 0:22:13 | |
There used to be 6,000 people living here, | 0:22:13 | 0:22:15 | |
but in a few decades the number has fallen to below half that. | 0:22:15 | 0:22:18 | |
Housekeeper Cynthia has brought her children up on the island, | 0:22:26 | 0:22:30 | |
but her eldest daughter now lives miles away on the mainland... | 0:22:30 | 0:22:33 | |
-Hello? -Hi. | 0:22:33 | 0:22:34 | |
..and is expecting twins. | 0:22:34 | 0:22:36 | |
-A basketball. -Just like a basketball. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:38 | |
No matter how hard she tries, | 0:22:41 | 0:22:43 | |
Cynthia can't tempt her daughter back to Fogo. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:46 | |
Oh, I'd love for her to come back, | 0:22:46 | 0:22:47 | |
then there'd be more people for the island, | 0:22:47 | 0:22:49 | |
cos we don't want the island to be, like, just a retirement home. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:52 | |
We wants the young people to come back to keep the place going, | 0:22:52 | 0:22:55 | |
and that's what we need, is young people, | 0:22:55 | 0:22:57 | |
because we don't want the island to die. | 0:22:57 | 0:22:59 | |
We wants the island to survive and keep going. | 0:22:59 | 0:23:02 | |
All righty, we've got to go back to work. We're on break. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:04 | |
-Take care. -Bye. -All right. Bye. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:06 | |
Simply put, not enough young families are staying on Fogo | 0:23:06 | 0:23:09 | |
to raise their children. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:12 | |
This island is facing an uncertain future. | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
So, why would Zita build an inn here? | 0:23:16 | 0:23:18 | |
And what's driving her ambition? | 0:23:18 | 0:23:20 | |
She has, after all, invested millions of dollars of her own | 0:23:20 | 0:23:23 | |
money into the project. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:25 | |
She gets talked about an awful lot - | 0:23:26 | 0:23:27 | |
she's a visionary, she's some sort of prophet - | 0:23:27 | 0:23:29 | |
and there's a bit of a cult of personality. | 0:23:29 | 0:23:31 | |
It's like the Wizard of Oz. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:33 | |
I hope... I hope she measures up. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:35 | |
The whole project, really, I suppose is, kind of, | 0:23:38 | 0:23:41 | |
built around two sentences. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
"Nature and culture are the two great garments of human life" - | 0:23:43 | 0:23:47 | |
EF Schumacher. | 0:23:47 | 0:23:49 | |
The second sentence, | 0:23:49 | 0:23:50 | |
"Every human being should get up in the morning, | 0:23:50 | 0:23:52 | |
"look at the world, and try to see it as whole." | 0:23:52 | 0:23:56 | |
You can taste these. | 0:23:56 | 0:23:57 | |
I mean, these are absolutely edible. | 0:23:57 | 0:24:00 | |
-You see, they have... -Quite a bland flavour, probably. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:02 | |
-Exactly. -Like a very, very weak plum, isn't it? | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
Yup. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:06 | |
Is it bad luck to pick berries in a graveyard? | 0:24:06 | 0:24:08 | |
'Zita is an eighth-generation islander, | 0:24:08 | 0:24:11 | |
'and her life here as a child had little to do with the modern ways | 0:24:11 | 0:24:14 | |
'of the mainland.' | 0:24:14 | 0:24:16 | |
I grew up here at a time that we had no running water, | 0:24:17 | 0:24:19 | |
and no electricity, and my parents couldn't read and write. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:22 | |
I mean, you're not talking about ancient history - | 0:24:22 | 0:24:24 | |
-you're talking about the late '60s, aren't you? -Exactly. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:27 | |
No electricity and no running water? | 0:24:27 | 0:24:28 | |
Exactly. When I was five, I got pretty sick, I had tuberculosis, | 0:24:28 | 0:24:32 | |
and I had to go away, and so I spent a year as a very young child | 0:24:32 | 0:24:36 | |
in a sanatorium on the other side of Newfoundland. | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
And it felt like being pulled up, really, by your roots, | 0:24:39 | 0:24:44 | |
and so to have been removed from the community | 0:24:44 | 0:24:46 | |
at such a young age, | 0:24:46 | 0:24:48 | |
I understood what the world feels like when you don't live embedded | 0:24:48 | 0:24:54 | |
in a community, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:56 | |
and, so, I've always, in my life, valued that more than anything. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
Not long after Zita's return, | 0:25:03 | 0:25:05 | |
disaster struck the island she loved so much. | 0:25:05 | 0:25:07 | |
Decades of international overfishing brought cod to the brink of | 0:25:09 | 0:25:11 | |
extinction, and this simple fishing community to its knees. | 0:25:11 | 0:25:15 | |
Unable to survive, many families, including Zita's, | 0:25:17 | 0:25:20 | |
were forced to leave the island. | 0:25:20 | 0:25:21 | |
My father had to let go of this place. | 0:25:22 | 0:25:26 | |
The collapse of the fishery just about killed him, | 0:25:26 | 0:25:28 | |
and moving away really did literally kill him. | 0:25:28 | 0:25:30 | |
And so, they...they moved away, and... | 0:25:30 | 0:25:33 | |
and I went off to university, and then he died. | 0:25:33 | 0:25:36 | |
So many people left during that time that the population had almost | 0:25:37 | 0:25:41 | |
no chance of recovery, until the little girl who so loved her island | 0:25:41 | 0:25:45 | |
hatched a plan to rescue it. | 0:25:45 | 0:25:47 | |
I've always wanted to come home, | 0:25:47 | 0:25:49 | |
and so when the opportunity presented itself, | 0:25:49 | 0:25:51 | |
that I was at a place in my career where I could retire, | 0:25:51 | 0:25:54 | |
and I had more money than I needed for a life. | 0:25:54 | 0:25:56 | |
What had you been doing? | 0:25:56 | 0:25:57 | |
I was the chief financial officer of a technology company | 0:25:57 | 0:26:01 | |
in the fibre optics industry. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:03 | |
And how much is "more than you could need"? | 0:26:03 | 0:26:05 | |
Enough to build that inn. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:07 | |
That's.... | 0:26:07 | 0:26:10 | |
And build that inn she did, | 0:26:10 | 0:26:12 | |
gifting it to the island through a charitable foundation so that all | 0:26:12 | 0:26:15 | |
profits go back into local projects to create jobs | 0:26:15 | 0:26:19 | |
and help the community. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:21 | |
So, taking money that I had, that was more than enough, | 0:26:21 | 0:26:25 | |
and bringing it home, it seemed like the obvious thing to do. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:28 | |
What an amazing story - a little girl growing up with no electricity, | 0:26:31 | 0:26:34 | |
no water, on a windblown, rocky outcrop - | 0:26:34 | 0:26:37 | |
a place from fairy tales - | 0:26:37 | 0:26:39 | |
travelling across the sea to make her fortune, | 0:26:39 | 0:26:41 | |
tens of millions of dollars, by all accounts, | 0:26:41 | 0:26:43 | |
and coming back to save the island of her birth, | 0:26:43 | 0:26:45 | |
which was threatened with extinction. | 0:26:45 | 0:26:47 | |
Just the thing that makes me worry - | 0:26:47 | 0:26:48 | |
she's 58, she's not getting any younger - | 0:26:48 | 0:26:51 | |
there are huge pressures on any small hotel business to succeed, | 0:26:51 | 0:26:55 | |
but this place has the hopes of a whole community resting on it. | 0:26:55 | 0:26:58 | |
Wherever you go around the island and the inn, | 0:27:07 | 0:27:10 | |
you can't help but notice the influence of fishing. | 0:27:10 | 0:27:12 | |
We have been here for centuries as people of the sea, | 0:27:16 | 0:27:21 | |
as fishing people. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:22 | |
And cod is, of course, the focus of most conversations at mealtime. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:28 | |
-Cheek? -Yes. -Yup. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:30 | |
-Tongue? -Yes. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:31 | |
And there's the livers. | 0:27:31 | 0:27:33 | |
I've never had cod offal for breakfast. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:36 | |
-Mmm. -It looks amazing. | 0:27:37 | 0:27:39 | |
That's great. | 0:27:39 | 0:27:40 | |
In its heyday, cod fishing around here was worth | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
over £100 million a year, | 0:27:46 | 0:27:49 | |
but big boats from other countries plundered the sea, | 0:27:49 | 0:27:51 | |
leaving nothing for the islanders. | 0:27:51 | 0:27:53 | |
To prevent extinction a cod fishing ban became law in 1992. | 0:27:54 | 0:27:59 | |
The cod survived and are now flourishing, | 0:27:59 | 0:28:01 | |
and the islanders can fish for them once again, | 0:28:01 | 0:28:03 | |
but with strict quotas in place. | 0:28:03 | 0:28:05 | |
Several local fishermen have special licences to supply cod | 0:28:07 | 0:28:11 | |
to the inn every week, such as Glen and Jerry Best. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:15 | |
You can't get a better fish than cod, | 0:28:15 | 0:28:17 | |
so we're proud to flaunt it in front of all the tourists | 0:28:17 | 0:28:20 | |
that come and eat at the inn in the dining room. | 0:28:20 | 0:28:22 | |
It's a beautiful looking fish. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:24 | |
The skin is, like, a red colour, | 0:28:24 | 0:28:25 | |
and then you get some that are really white and grey. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:29 | |
In the dining room, guests enjoy the fillets of nearly 1,000 | 0:28:29 | 0:28:32 | |
sustainably-caught cod each year. | 0:28:32 | 0:28:34 | |
To learn more about the returning cod industry that's nourished | 0:28:37 | 0:28:40 | |
the island for generations, | 0:28:40 | 0:28:42 | |
we're going to spend a morning with Glen, catching cod for the inn. | 0:28:42 | 0:28:45 | |
It smells quite strongly of fish, OK? | 0:28:45 | 0:28:48 | |
Just so that you know. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:50 | |
So, it's only right to dress for the occasion. | 0:28:50 | 0:28:53 | |
-Are you tough? -Yeah, but I don't like the cold. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:56 | |
-So, no. -You're not tough. | 0:28:56 | 0:28:57 | |
Like many fishermen here, | 0:29:00 | 0:29:01 | |
Glen's family normally fish for lucrative crab, shrimp, and turbot, | 0:29:01 | 0:29:06 | |
but his heart still belongs to the cod. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:09 | |
If I eat fish for my dinner in the inn tonight, | 0:29:09 | 0:29:11 | |
will it have been caught on this boat? | 0:29:11 | 0:29:13 | |
Possibly it could be caught on this boat - | 0:29:13 | 0:29:14 | |
might have been caught by these two hands. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:17 | |
The traditional way to catch it is by jigging bait, | 0:29:17 | 0:29:20 | |
like squid with a hook and line. | 0:29:20 | 0:29:22 | |
-You can feel it tugging on the line. -Yeah? | 0:29:24 | 0:29:28 | |
God, it's a long way down. | 0:29:28 | 0:29:29 | |
-There we go. -Have you got one? | 0:29:31 | 0:29:33 | |
I think so. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:34 | |
Oh, wow, that's quite a big fish. | 0:29:36 | 0:29:38 | |
Oh, that's a nice size. | 0:29:38 | 0:29:40 | |
Look at that. | 0:29:40 | 0:29:41 | |
I've literally never caught anything in my life apart from a mackerel. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:45 | |
So, how much would you say that weighed, about 13 kilos? | 0:29:46 | 0:29:49 | |
-No way. -No. -No way, 13 kilos. | 0:29:49 | 0:29:50 | |
That looks, like, eight. | 0:29:50 | 0:29:52 | |
-I'd say it's maybe six kilos. -Six? | 0:29:54 | 0:29:57 | |
Six kilos, or seven, so about 15lbs. | 0:29:57 | 0:30:00 | |
So, it's like both my children added together when they were born. | 0:30:00 | 0:30:04 | |
I don't know what a fuss my wife made about that, it's not that big. | 0:30:05 | 0:30:08 | |
Actually, it's quite heavy. Whoa! | 0:30:08 | 0:30:12 | |
Hello! Here we go. This is just so much fun. | 0:30:12 | 0:30:15 | |
I think it's fun because there are lots of fish and I don't know how | 0:30:15 | 0:30:18 | |
much it would be if I'd been here for three days getting nothing. | 0:30:18 | 0:30:21 | |
Wow, that's quite a big one, as well! | 0:30:21 | 0:30:23 | |
Yours is bigger, though, isn't it? | 0:30:23 | 0:30:25 | |
That is cool. | 0:30:25 | 0:30:27 | |
-Wow. -There's another nice one. | 0:30:27 | 0:30:29 | |
-There we go. -This is my third. | 0:30:29 | 0:30:32 | |
The Best family have been fishing these waters for nearly 200 years. | 0:30:43 | 0:30:47 | |
Fathers passing down the knowledge to sons. | 0:30:47 | 0:30:49 | |
Are you guys going to give me a hand to get this fish cleaned up now? | 0:30:49 | 0:30:52 | |
Or are you going to leave me with all of the work? | 0:30:52 | 0:30:55 | |
But a shadow now hangs over the family's future. | 0:30:55 | 0:30:58 | |
There you go, perfect. | 0:30:59 | 0:31:01 | |
The sole male heir to the operation, Glen's son Matthew, | 0:31:01 | 0:31:04 | |
has left Fogo and has no interest in fishing or carrying on the family | 0:31:04 | 0:31:07 | |
business. And for Glen, the implications are devastating. | 0:31:07 | 0:31:11 | |
He has been out fishing shrimp just to make some money for | 0:31:11 | 0:31:15 | |
university, but he hasn't shown any interest in actually taking over the | 0:31:15 | 0:31:19 | |
business. Like we've been doing it for five, six generations, | 0:31:19 | 0:31:23 | |
we could be the last. | 0:31:23 | 0:31:24 | |
Well, that's the end, and that would be pretty sad. | 0:31:24 | 0:31:27 | |
And it's not just Glen's son - | 0:31:31 | 0:31:33 | |
in recent years, many young people have moved away due to limited | 0:31:33 | 0:31:36 | |
opportunities on the island. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:38 | |
Zita fears that the ageing population | 0:31:38 | 0:31:41 | |
being left behind could be the last. | 0:31:41 | 0:31:43 | |
It's so dangerous, | 0:31:43 | 0:31:45 | |
because we're holding hands with the past as hard as we can. | 0:31:45 | 0:31:48 | |
People of my age, say, 50 and older. | 0:31:48 | 0:31:52 | |
And we are trying to hold hands with these young people. | 0:31:52 | 0:31:56 | |
We are half the population in numbers that we were 30 years ago. | 0:31:57 | 0:32:02 | |
What's going to happen over the next five to ten years? | 0:32:02 | 0:32:06 | |
The inn offers a huge range of job opportunities that provide an | 0:32:16 | 0:32:19 | |
alternative to fishing | 0:32:19 | 0:32:21 | |
which Zita hopes will stop people leaving the island. | 0:32:21 | 0:32:24 | |
Sometimes I look at it and I think, "Well, it's just a little inn, | 0:32:25 | 0:32:28 | |
"it's just a 29-room inn", but it holds a lot of dreams. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:31 | |
And fulfilling these dreams by making a success of the inn | 0:32:31 | 0:32:34 | |
is far from easy. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:37 | |
A successful hotel depends on attention to detail. | 0:32:37 | 0:32:40 | |
How are we doing with our people in room 29, with the baby? | 0:32:40 | 0:32:44 | |
I talked to them last night. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:46 | |
She's a vegetarian, but eats chicken. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:48 | |
Did we sort out how we're getting | 0:32:48 | 0:32:50 | |
-those people at two o'clock in the morning? -I don't know. | 0:32:50 | 0:32:53 | |
It doesn't take much to lose your way. | 0:32:56 | 0:32:59 | |
When you lose your way a little bit it has a tendency to build. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:04 | |
And then if that takes hold then we'll lose our confidence. | 0:33:04 | 0:33:08 | |
Details, details, details, details, details. | 0:33:08 | 0:33:12 | |
Zita takes guest comments very seriously | 0:33:12 | 0:33:15 | |
and there's been a complaint about the food. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:18 | |
Oh, well, there were several issues with the breakfast. | 0:33:18 | 0:33:20 | |
One problem is the bread's all wrong. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:22 | |
You can't toast sourdough bread because it just turns into a weapon. | 0:33:22 | 0:33:26 | |
And the potatoes that were served on the plate were placed so haphazardly | 0:33:26 | 0:33:33 | |
that there was no indication of love in the way they were placed. | 0:33:33 | 0:33:37 | |
Every time you put something down that's an opportunity to show a | 0:33:37 | 0:33:41 | |
little extra care. No care was shown. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:43 | |
They looked like they were thrown at the plate. | 0:33:43 | 0:33:46 | |
And the bacon looked like it was in a microwave, | 0:33:46 | 0:33:48 | |
which I know it wasn't in a microwave, | 0:33:48 | 0:33:50 | |
because there's no microwave here at the inn. | 0:33:50 | 0:33:52 | |
So, I don't know how you make that microwave effect. | 0:33:52 | 0:33:55 | |
Ah, look, we have some more blue sky coming. | 0:33:55 | 0:33:57 | |
Can you come to ops tomorrow morning? | 0:33:59 | 0:34:01 | |
I had a whole bunch of breakfast comments. | 0:34:01 | 0:34:03 | |
-Yes, do you want to talk about that now? -Yes, absolutely. | 0:34:03 | 0:34:06 | |
Number one thing is we have to come up with a different toast. | 0:34:06 | 0:34:09 | |
Sourdough doesn't toast. | 0:34:09 | 0:34:11 | |
-Is it just too much? -It's too hard, like, it's like a weapon. | 0:34:11 | 0:34:15 | |
Like, it hurts. And really we should have a classic | 0:34:15 | 0:34:20 | |
white Newfoundland toast. | 0:34:20 | 0:34:23 | |
Yes, absolutely. | 0:34:23 | 0:34:25 | |
When you're new to the exclusive hotel business, the slightest | 0:34:28 | 0:34:32 | |
mistake can hurt, and with so much resting on the inn | 0:34:32 | 0:34:35 | |
it just can't afford to lose its way. | 0:34:35 | 0:34:37 | |
So, Zita's asked locally born pastry chef Marlene Hancock to help improve | 0:34:37 | 0:34:42 | |
the breakfasts. Marlene's had an idea to create a new bread with an | 0:34:42 | 0:34:47 | |
ingredient found washed up on the shore - | 0:34:47 | 0:34:50 | |
a chunk of iceberg. | 0:34:50 | 0:34:52 | |
This is iceberg ice. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:55 | |
Ice that came down from way up north, thousands of years old. | 0:34:55 | 0:35:00 | |
You'd think it would taste salty because it's floating in | 0:35:00 | 0:35:03 | |
the salt water and the sea, | 0:35:03 | 0:35:05 | |
but it's not, it's very fresh water, very pure water. | 0:35:05 | 0:35:08 | |
Marlene's also adding seaweed. | 0:35:08 | 0:35:11 | |
This is the seaweed that actually washed up on the shore. | 0:35:11 | 0:35:15 | |
So, hopefully that's OK, if not, if I need more I'll add more. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:21 | |
And lastly, she puts in Fogo sea salt. | 0:35:21 | 0:35:23 | |
Natural salt right from the sea behind us. | 0:35:25 | 0:35:28 | |
A little bit of this, a little bit of that, | 0:35:28 | 0:35:30 | |
it's going to be a surprise, I guess. | 0:35:30 | 0:35:34 | |
It's nice when people try your product and say, "That is really good," | 0:35:34 | 0:35:38 | |
it makes you feel good. It makes your job worthwhile. | 0:35:38 | 0:35:41 | |
BEEPING | 0:35:41 | 0:35:44 | |
But to have any chance of reaching the dining room, all food must | 0:35:56 | 0:36:00 | |
first pass Zita's taste test. | 0:36:00 | 0:36:02 | |
I love it. | 0:36:13 | 0:36:14 | |
-Good. -I really love it. You know, | 0:36:15 | 0:36:18 | |
this could be the only iceberg bread in the world. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:22 | |
That is like taking Fogo Island and putting it inside the bread. | 0:36:22 | 0:36:27 | |
I think, Marlene, you are 90% of the way there. | 0:36:27 | 0:36:30 | |
The only thing you have to change is bring on the seaweed. | 0:36:30 | 0:36:34 | |
-Up the seaweed? -Up the seaweed. -Yeah, I can do that. | 0:36:34 | 0:36:36 | |
I think it's a winner. | 0:36:36 | 0:36:38 | |
Marlene. | 0:36:38 | 0:36:40 | |
-MARLENE LAUGHS -It's so good. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:42 | |
THEY CHATTER AND LAUGH | 0:36:42 | 0:36:45 | |
The ancestors of housekeeping sisters Cynthia and Lori | 0:36:52 | 0:36:55 | |
settled on Fogo in the 19th century. | 0:36:55 | 0:36:57 | |
Theirs is one of many families for whom | 0:36:57 | 0:37:00 | |
the inn represents hope for a secure future. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:02 | |
They've invited me round to meet the clan and get a deeper understanding | 0:37:05 | 0:37:08 | |
of what makes family life so special here on Fogo. | 0:37:08 | 0:37:11 | |
It's very kind of them. I don't really know what to expect. | 0:37:15 | 0:37:18 | |
I'm just imagining it'll be a lot of good, clean fun. | 0:37:18 | 0:37:21 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:37:21 | 0:37:22 | |
Giles, just in time for a game of cards. | 0:37:24 | 0:37:27 | |
This is Mom, Marie. | 0:37:27 | 0:37:29 | |
-Hi, Marie, nice to meet you. -This is sister Lori. | 0:37:29 | 0:37:31 | |
Your sister? Your mom? | 0:37:31 | 0:37:33 | |
Yes. My sister, Sharon. | 0:37:33 | 0:37:35 | |
-Sister Sharon. -Sister Nancy. | 0:37:35 | 0:37:37 | |
-You're having me on? -No, I'm not! | 0:37:37 | 0:37:40 | |
-Sister Bella. -Hi. | 0:37:40 | 0:37:41 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:37:41 | 0:37:43 | |
-Work sister Colleen. -Work sister, honorary sister. | 0:37:43 | 0:37:46 | |
I introduced you, do you know everyone's name? | 0:37:46 | 0:37:48 | |
Yes, that's Mom, | 0:37:48 | 0:37:51 | |
sister, sister, sister, and work sister Mary. | 0:37:51 | 0:37:56 | |
I do know all the kings of England from 1066. | 0:37:56 | 0:37:59 | |
Sharon and Nancy. | 0:37:59 | 0:38:02 | |
Is it normal that there are so many of you altogether? | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
Is that a normal Newfoundland family? | 0:38:05 | 0:38:08 | |
Is Newfoundland just three families, or something? | 0:38:08 | 0:38:10 | |
Everyone is a brother and sister. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:12 | |
-Is it like Greece? -Years ago that was the thing, big families, | 0:38:12 | 0:38:16 | |
but not so much these days. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:18 | |
When we grew up there were kids everywhere. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:20 | |
12 in our family. | 0:38:20 | 0:38:22 | |
-She got 12. -You're one of 12? | 0:38:22 | 0:38:23 | |
Seven boys and five girls, yes. | 0:38:23 | 0:38:26 | |
I don't know whether I want to ask, "Why did they do that?" | 0:38:26 | 0:38:29 | |
or, "Why did they stop?" | 0:38:29 | 0:38:31 | |
Cold, lonely winters. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:33 | |
You weren't expected to survive the winters? | 0:38:33 | 0:38:36 | |
What happened when all of these ones lived? | 0:38:36 | 0:38:38 | |
Was the plan, were you are only meant to end up with two or three? | 0:38:38 | 0:38:41 | |
And then life expectancy went up. | 0:38:41 | 0:38:42 | |
And here you all are. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:45 | |
So, you play cards together every night? | 0:38:45 | 0:38:48 | |
No, like, once a week we usually get together down at Mom's. | 0:38:48 | 0:38:51 | |
Usually on a Monday night or a Tuesday night. | 0:38:51 | 0:38:54 | |
Four of these sisters work at the inn. | 0:38:54 | 0:38:57 | |
The alternatives would be the local fish plant or life on the mainland. | 0:38:57 | 0:39:01 | |
So, I can really see how the inn is holding the community together. | 0:39:01 | 0:39:05 | |
What on earth are you drinking? | 0:39:05 | 0:39:07 | |
Did you put a leprechaun in a blender? | 0:39:07 | 0:39:09 | |
What on earth is that? | 0:39:09 | 0:39:11 | |
Taste it. | 0:39:11 | 0:39:12 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:39:12 | 0:39:15 | |
It's bubble gum flavour mouthwash. | 0:39:20 | 0:39:24 | |
It's a great honour being treated as one of the girls, | 0:39:24 | 0:39:27 | |
but before I know what's hit me Cynthia has shanghaied me into a | 0:39:27 | 0:39:30 | |
traditional rowing race. | 0:39:30 | 0:39:32 | |
So, Giles, do you row a punt? | 0:39:32 | 0:39:34 | |
I beg your pardon. | 0:39:36 | 0:39:37 | |
-Do I what a what? -Row a punt. | 0:39:37 | 0:39:40 | |
-I don't. -You don't, so, do you know what I mean when I say row a punt? | 0:39:40 | 0:39:43 | |
I know punting, I know about a punt, you do that with a stick and a pole. | 0:39:43 | 0:39:46 | |
No, no, this is with two paddles, and it's, like, two in a... | 0:39:46 | 0:39:50 | |
This is rowing? | 0:39:50 | 0:39:53 | |
Yes. But are you good, like, are you strong? | 0:39:53 | 0:39:56 | |
I'm not sure about this punting business. | 0:39:56 | 0:39:59 | |
And not only am I expected to row a boat like a local, | 0:40:02 | 0:40:05 | |
now I'm being pressured into becoming a local | 0:40:05 | 0:40:08 | |
with a bizarre initiation ceremony. | 0:40:08 | 0:40:11 | |
So, the first thing you have to do is repeat what I say exactly. | 0:40:11 | 0:40:15 | |
That's not too bad, actually. | 0:40:19 | 0:40:21 | |
Then I will give you something to taste. | 0:40:21 | 0:40:24 | |
So, this is supposed to cleanse your body from the inside out, | 0:40:24 | 0:40:29 | |
and your throat, and your eyes, and your soul. | 0:40:29 | 0:40:31 | |
They say it's really bad, but it's not that bad. | 0:40:31 | 0:40:36 | |
They say the same about you. | 0:40:36 | 0:40:37 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:40:37 | 0:40:39 | |
-Down the hatch! -He's a good old sport. | 0:40:39 | 0:40:41 | |
-Another one? -Yeah. | 0:40:41 | 0:40:44 | |
So, then, just before you become an official Newfoundlander, | 0:40:46 | 0:40:49 | |
you've got to do one more thing. | 0:40:49 | 0:40:52 | |
This is codfish. | 0:40:52 | 0:40:54 | |
And you have to adore him and kiss him right on the mouth. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:58 | |
-Man alive! -No, it's all right, I cut the tongue out, | 0:40:58 | 0:41:01 | |
so you won't get the tongue. | 0:41:01 | 0:41:02 | |
Pucker up, pucker up, baby. | 0:41:02 | 0:41:04 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:41:04 | 0:41:06 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:41:10 | 0:41:12 | |
You're welcome. Give us a hug. | 0:41:12 | 0:41:13 | |
Allow me to say, ladies, time to shut up and deal the cards. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:19 | |
ALL: All right! | 0:41:19 | 0:41:20 | |
Bring it on. | 0:41:20 | 0:41:22 | |
As part of the mission to get the island thriving, | 0:41:31 | 0:41:34 | |
an annual rowing race takes place using local boats called punts. | 0:41:34 | 0:41:38 | |
It's normally a brutal four-hour event held in open water for | 0:41:40 | 0:41:43 | |
die-hard locals. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:45 | |
-Giles, you're in the back. -OK, do I go in first? | 0:41:45 | 0:41:47 | |
Right here first, yeah, watch, it could be slippery. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:50 | |
But Cynthia assures me that this morning's mixed doubles race will be a far more sedate affair. | 0:41:50 | 0:41:55 | |
I hope you're not all talk, because I've got no idea how to do this. | 0:41:56 | 0:41:58 | |
No, I'm going to show you, and you're going to win. | 0:41:58 | 0:42:01 | |
Today is a trial event for locals | 0:42:01 | 0:42:04 | |
and any interested guests at the inn. | 0:42:04 | 0:42:06 | |
So novices like me are welcome. | 0:42:06 | 0:42:08 | |
Stroke. | 0:42:08 | 0:42:10 | |
And I've jumped at the chance to partner with my new buddy, Norm. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:14 | |
-Not bad. -Yeah, not bad. You'll do. | 0:42:14 | 0:42:18 | |
Every single punt taking part has been built here on Fogo | 0:42:20 | 0:42:24 | |
in the traditional way. | 0:42:24 | 0:42:26 | |
This boat is for Zita, I hope she's going to win this race | 0:42:26 | 0:42:30 | |
cos my neck is on the line. | 0:42:30 | 0:42:32 | |
For generations, these punts have represented survival. | 0:42:45 | 0:42:49 | |
The only means of catching food to feed your family. | 0:42:50 | 0:42:53 | |
And in all that time, islanders have gained something of a reputation. | 0:42:56 | 0:43:00 | |
Winston Churchill himself said Newfoundlanders are the best small | 0:43:00 | 0:43:04 | |
-boatsmen in the world. -Come on, Cynth, put some beef into it. | 0:43:04 | 0:43:08 | |
We'll get them. | 0:43:08 | 0:43:09 | |
SHE LAUGHS | 0:43:09 | 0:43:11 | |
The race is a way of preserving these historic boats and celebrating | 0:43:11 | 0:43:14 | |
the resourcefulness of the people who crafted them. | 0:43:14 | 0:43:17 | |
Go, Norm. | 0:43:17 | 0:43:20 | |
SHE CHEERS | 0:43:20 | 0:43:22 | |
But by the looks of it the most important thing of all around here | 0:43:22 | 0:43:25 | |
-seems to be winning. -Beating Giles by miles. Look. | 0:43:25 | 0:43:29 | |
That's a bit annoying. | 0:43:32 | 0:43:33 | |
He'll have an excuse, I'm sure. | 0:43:33 | 0:43:36 | |
Is my rope on right on there? | 0:43:36 | 0:43:39 | |
Cynthia, is that on right? | 0:43:39 | 0:43:41 | |
That's why I can't make it move. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:43 | |
It looks like we have a winner. | 0:43:47 | 0:43:49 | |
It's Zita. | 0:43:50 | 0:43:52 | |
APPLAUSE | 0:43:52 | 0:43:54 | |
Oh, my word! | 0:43:54 | 0:43:56 | |
And Norm and I come a respectable fourth. | 0:43:56 | 0:43:59 | |
Yay! | 0:43:59 | 0:44:00 | |
Congratulations, Monica. | 0:44:00 | 0:44:03 | |
But what about Giles? | 0:44:03 | 0:44:05 | |
Cynthia and Giles, fifth placed team. | 0:44:05 | 0:44:08 | |
Give us a hug. | 0:44:08 | 0:44:10 | |
What was that, fifth place? | 0:44:10 | 0:44:13 | |
Yeah, well, we didn't cheat, because I didn't think it was in the spirit. | 0:44:13 | 0:44:16 | |
Fun and games over, Zita wants to show me a poignant reason | 0:44:20 | 0:44:23 | |
why it's so important the inn is a success. | 0:44:23 | 0:44:26 | |
It sort of is in a devotional pose. | 0:44:28 | 0:44:31 | |
And it looks right at Little Fogo Islands, | 0:44:31 | 0:44:33 | |
which you can see in the distance. | 0:44:33 | 0:44:36 | |
They form, kind of, a natural reef that protects big Fogo Island | 0:44:36 | 0:44:40 | |
from the worst of the North Atlantic. | 0:44:40 | 0:44:42 | |
Six miles off the northern tip of Fogo, lie tiny rocks, | 0:44:44 | 0:44:47 | |
called Little Fogo Islands. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:49 | |
Being even closer to the prize cod fishing grounds, | 0:44:51 | 0:44:53 | |
this is where Europeans first settled in the 18th century. | 0:44:53 | 0:44:56 | |
At one time, 375 people called this place their permanent home. | 0:44:58 | 0:45:03 | |
But when the fishing collapsed, | 0:45:06 | 0:45:08 | |
the community could no longer survive and every single family | 0:45:08 | 0:45:11 | |
was forced to abandon the island. | 0:45:11 | 0:45:13 | |
The pain of that is still with us. | 0:45:18 | 0:45:20 | |
And the people who lived there for centuries, | 0:45:20 | 0:45:22 | |
you still feel them out there. | 0:45:22 | 0:45:24 | |
There but for the grace of God goes big Fogo island, | 0:45:24 | 0:45:26 | |
and so it's kind of here that we want to keep our stand, | 0:45:26 | 0:45:30 | |
and that building, that's what it's trying to do. | 0:45:30 | 0:45:33 | |
So, without the inn, Fogo could go the same way. | 0:45:34 | 0:45:36 | |
Without the inn, it would be a lot harder to hold on. | 0:45:38 | 0:45:41 | |
I'm going to meet someone whose situation highlights the need | 0:45:54 | 0:45:57 | |
for the inn to be a success. | 0:45:57 | 0:45:59 | |
Glen Best's son, Matthew, is back from university for a rare visit. | 0:46:00 | 0:46:05 | |
Perhaps he can tell me why some of the younger generation are turning | 0:46:05 | 0:46:08 | |
their backs on lucrative island industries such as fishing. | 0:46:08 | 0:46:11 | |
Do you have any friends who are going into fishing? | 0:46:11 | 0:46:14 | |
No, not around my age, no, it's just not something... | 0:46:14 | 0:46:16 | |
I don't know, I guess things are changing. | 0:46:16 | 0:46:19 | |
I wouldn't be able to name anyone on the island | 0:46:19 | 0:46:21 | |
who's my age who's going fishing. | 0:46:21 | 0:46:23 | |
-No-one on the island? -Not, not... No. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:26 | |
It seems to me you've got a thing where the fish are coming back | 0:46:26 | 0:46:29 | |
but the fishermen are disappearing. | 0:46:29 | 0:46:31 | |
It's pretty ironic, isn't it? | 0:46:31 | 0:46:32 | |
You've hit the nail on the head. That's the case. | 0:46:32 | 0:46:35 | |
Is the weight of history actually off-putting? | 0:46:35 | 0:46:37 | |
Instead of being a continuity that you want to take up, | 0:46:37 | 0:46:40 | |
is it actually a thing that makes it feel like a pressure? | 0:46:40 | 0:46:42 | |
I don't know if it was ever something that I really... | 0:46:42 | 0:46:45 | |
seemed like me, do you know what I mean? | 0:46:45 | 0:46:47 | |
Like, I don't feel like a fisherman. | 0:46:47 | 0:46:49 | |
It's kind of sad, obviously, cos it is a legacy, like you say, but, | 0:46:51 | 0:46:57 | |
you know, that's life. | 0:46:57 | 0:46:58 | |
Yeah, there you go. | 0:47:01 | 0:47:03 | |
So, it's a bit, it's a bit... | 0:47:03 | 0:47:04 | |
..emotional, I'd say. | 0:47:06 | 0:47:08 | |
You know, I didn't want to be a writer, | 0:47:12 | 0:47:14 | |
I wanted to do all sorts of other things, | 0:47:14 | 0:47:15 | |
and I didn't want to be a journalist, or present TV shows, | 0:47:15 | 0:47:18 | |
because that was what my dad did, and that seemed a bit pointless. | 0:47:18 | 0:47:20 | |
And then in my 20s, I started to think, "Maybe it's all right." | 0:47:20 | 0:47:24 | |
So, I'm not saying that it's going to happen, | 0:47:24 | 0:47:26 | |
but he does his engineering and he goes and builds aeroplanes | 0:47:26 | 0:47:29 | |
and rockets and goes to the moon or whatever, | 0:47:29 | 0:47:31 | |
and then in ten years' time he thinks, | 0:47:31 | 0:47:32 | |
"I'd quite like to go home," cos he clearly feels strongly about it. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:35 | |
"Maybe I want to go home and fish off the point." | 0:47:35 | 0:47:38 | |
It might happen. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:40 | |
-Give me some notice, will you? -I will. | 0:47:40 | 0:47:42 | |
I don't think Matthew and Glen have conversations like that very often. | 0:47:47 | 0:47:50 | |
I don't think they talk about it. | 0:47:50 | 0:47:51 | |
It's not thought through, it's raw emotion. | 0:47:51 | 0:47:53 | |
And I think of Zita, of the same generation as Glen, | 0:47:55 | 0:47:57 | |
trying to keep this island alive, trying to prop it up. | 0:47:57 | 0:48:00 | |
They're spinning plates - | 0:48:00 | 0:48:01 | |
"We've got to save the fishermen, we've got to save the people." | 0:48:01 | 0:48:04 | |
Who knows whether they can keep it up? | 0:48:04 | 0:48:06 | |
Every October, the Partridgeberry Festival | 0:48:18 | 0:48:21 | |
celebrates the island's variety of wild berries. | 0:48:21 | 0:48:23 | |
This year's event was one of the most memorable. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:30 | |
A few days ago, it hosted the wedding ceremony | 0:48:30 | 0:48:32 | |
of the inn's maintenance man, Don Paul, and his bride M'Liz. | 0:48:32 | 0:48:37 | |
I have a little bit of butterflies, but I'm so excited and happy. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:41 | |
Now, what do you think, how do I look? | 0:48:43 | 0:48:46 | |
For Zita, the inn and the island's future | 0:48:46 | 0:48:48 | |
must include more outsiders like Don and M'Liz. | 0:48:48 | 0:48:52 | |
It's not always easy to convince someone who lives in the big city | 0:48:52 | 0:48:56 | |
somewhere that they should move to this little island | 0:48:56 | 0:48:59 | |
that's far away from far away. | 0:48:59 | 0:49:00 | |
So, when someone chooses to make their home here, you know, | 0:49:00 | 0:49:03 | |
in some ways it's like an endorsement of us | 0:49:03 | 0:49:07 | |
and sort of affirms the things that we see in our place. | 0:49:07 | 0:49:11 | |
That is very moving. | 0:49:11 | 0:49:13 | |
Love is patient, love is kind, love is not envious, or boastful, | 0:49:15 | 0:49:19 | |
or arrogant, or rude. | 0:49:19 | 0:49:21 | |
Yes, I do. | 0:49:21 | 0:49:22 | |
I do. | 0:49:22 | 0:49:24 | |
Around here, there's only one way to celebrate. | 0:49:26 | 0:49:29 | |
I love being married to M'Liz. | 0:49:29 | 0:49:31 | |
Zita wants to celebrate the fact that Don and M'Liz have decided | 0:49:39 | 0:49:42 | |
to make Fogo their future, | 0:49:42 | 0:49:43 | |
and that they're bumping up the island's population. | 0:49:43 | 0:49:45 | |
It's vital to recognise the commitment made by outsiders, | 0:49:47 | 0:49:49 | |
as living and working in such a remote place isn't for everyone. | 0:49:49 | 0:49:52 | |
In the kitchen, I learn that for Chef Tim working here | 0:49:57 | 0:50:00 | |
means living far from his young son. | 0:50:00 | 0:50:02 | |
I get to FaceTime. | 0:50:03 | 0:50:04 | |
-You FaceTime? -Yeah. | 0:50:05 | 0:50:07 | |
When did you last see your boy? | 0:50:07 | 0:50:09 | |
Last... In the spring. | 0:50:09 | 0:50:12 | |
-This spring. -This past spring. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:15 | |
-Wow. -So, once a year, twice a year, maybe. -Yeah. | 0:50:15 | 0:50:19 | |
Chef Ian is also separated. | 0:50:20 | 0:50:23 | |
She's no longer here, but I still am, because I love it here. | 0:50:23 | 0:50:27 | |
-Where is she? -She has moved back to Alberta, | 0:50:27 | 0:50:30 | |
so we have gone our separate ways, and this place is my new life. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:34 | |
Oh. I'm sorry about that. | 0:50:34 | 0:50:38 | |
If you're that passionate about something, | 0:50:38 | 0:50:40 | |
you're going to give it your all. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:41 | |
I've done something similar myself. | 0:50:43 | 0:50:44 | |
I left New Zealand, I've left family, | 0:50:44 | 0:50:47 | |
and I'm always homesick for them. | 0:50:47 | 0:50:49 | |
People say, "Why don't you just go back?" | 0:50:49 | 0:50:51 | |
It's because you're pursuing something that you love. | 0:50:51 | 0:50:54 | |
For Zita, it's vital to make a big fuss of people | 0:50:55 | 0:50:58 | |
when they choose this island to be their permanent home - | 0:50:58 | 0:51:01 | |
like throwing what islanders call a scoff, or feast, | 0:51:01 | 0:51:04 | |
in the dining room at the inn. | 0:51:04 | 0:51:06 | |
A scoff is a tricky thing to pull off because it has this kind of | 0:51:09 | 0:51:13 | |
unpredictable nature to it. | 0:51:13 | 0:51:15 | |
But we still want to do it in a way that has the precision that we have | 0:51:15 | 0:51:19 | |
fought so hard to accomplish. | 0:51:19 | 0:51:22 | |
-Yes, this one needs turning around. -One, two, three. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:25 | |
It's only right that Giles and I pitch in to help with preparations. | 0:51:27 | 0:51:30 | |
Marlene and I are making jam tarts with spiced molasses pastry. | 0:51:32 | 0:51:36 | |
It smells amazing. | 0:51:39 | 0:51:40 | |
Clove, ginger. | 0:51:40 | 0:51:42 | |
And the molasses, of course, which I'm a big fan of. | 0:51:42 | 0:51:45 | |
-And there's cinnamon. -Cinnamon, as well. | 0:51:45 | 0:51:47 | |
And it's only fitting that we use partridgeberries | 0:51:49 | 0:51:52 | |
picked right in front of the inn. | 0:51:52 | 0:51:54 | |
-I like that. -You're doing really well. | 0:51:57 | 0:52:00 | |
Not bad for a mainlander. | 0:52:00 | 0:52:01 | |
"Not bad for a mainlander?" | 0:52:01 | 0:52:03 | |
That's what I am, a mainlander? | 0:52:03 | 0:52:05 | |
And for the bride and groom, two personalised tarts. | 0:52:07 | 0:52:11 | |
After all, it is a scoff in honour of Don and M'Liz. | 0:52:11 | 0:52:15 | |
Made with love, there you go. | 0:52:15 | 0:52:17 | |
The scoff is a great chance for the kitchen to impress | 0:52:21 | 0:52:24 | |
with some of the more acquired tastes found on the island. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:27 | |
The groom's favourite food is goat, | 0:52:28 | 0:52:31 | |
so Chef Tim is picking one up from his local supplier. | 0:52:31 | 0:52:34 | |
All of these goats have been able to live outside and see the sun. | 0:52:35 | 0:52:39 | |
People have taken good care of them. | 0:52:39 | 0:52:42 | |
And when they are killed, they're going to be killed with respect. | 0:52:42 | 0:52:44 | |
I would rather we were serving these cows, though. | 0:52:44 | 0:52:47 | |
Oh, there we go! | 0:52:48 | 0:52:50 | |
It looks like the cow heard that. | 0:52:50 | 0:52:52 | |
CREW LAUGH | 0:52:52 | 0:52:54 | |
The kitchen has pulled out all the stops | 0:53:18 | 0:53:21 | |
to put all things Fogo on the menu. | 0:53:21 | 0:53:24 | |
This is your beautiful goat. | 0:53:24 | 0:53:27 | |
We've got a goat. | 0:53:27 | 0:53:29 | |
-Enjoy. -Thank you, thank you very much. | 0:53:29 | 0:53:33 | |
In keeping with Zita's inclusive sense of hospitality, | 0:53:33 | 0:53:36 | |
the scoff is not only for locals, but all guests staying at the inn. | 0:53:36 | 0:53:41 | |
You know, we just got in today, and we were asked, | 0:53:41 | 0:53:44 | |
just out of the blue, to attend a wedding. | 0:53:44 | 0:53:47 | |
You just mingle. I mean, there's nobody that you don't talk to, | 0:53:47 | 0:53:52 | |
there's nobody you don't know within five minutes of being in here. | 0:53:52 | 0:53:55 | |
You know, that's why you feel part of the family here, | 0:53:55 | 0:53:58 | |
coming to a wedding where it seems so intimate, right? | 0:53:58 | 0:54:02 | |
And they don't know us from anything. And, so, it is so neat. | 0:54:02 | 0:54:06 | |
It's spectacular, yeah. | 0:54:06 | 0:54:07 | |
-Congratulations. -Thank you, Marlene. | 0:54:07 | 0:54:10 | |
Here are a couple of molasses jam tarts that | 0:54:10 | 0:54:12 | |
Monica and I made for you both. | 0:54:12 | 0:54:14 | |
-Enjoy. -Thank you so much, Marlene. | 0:54:14 | 0:54:16 | |
While the party carries on, we're being ushered upstairs | 0:54:16 | 0:54:19 | |
and pressed into joining what seems to be some sort of freakish cult. | 0:54:19 | 0:54:24 | |
This is not going to hurt a bit, OK? | 0:54:24 | 0:54:26 | |
Whatever we can... Claire? | 0:54:30 | 0:54:32 | |
This is a custom called mummering. | 0:54:32 | 0:54:35 | |
It was brought here in the 1820s from England and Ireland. | 0:54:35 | 0:54:39 | |
Traditionally, mummers would turn up uninvited and in disguise | 0:54:39 | 0:54:42 | |
to get a party started. | 0:54:42 | 0:54:44 | |
I can't believe I've spent time on this island, getting to know | 0:54:49 | 0:54:52 | |
these people, their lives and their hopes and their fears, | 0:54:52 | 0:54:54 | |
and the good things and the bad things, and we present them | 0:54:54 | 0:54:57 | |
to the world as this unique and exciting, living community... | 0:54:57 | 0:55:01 | |
and they've just revealed themselves to be a complete bunch of wackos. | 0:55:01 | 0:55:04 | |
I hope I'm not complicit in the mockery of an entire island. | 0:55:05 | 0:55:09 | |
I promise you, I promise you this was their idea. | 0:55:09 | 0:55:11 | |
I'm going to have nightmares about this for the rest of my life. | 0:55:14 | 0:55:17 | |
TRADITIONAL MUSIC PLAYS | 0:55:17 | 0:55:20 | |
Tradition dictates that the host of the party | 0:55:39 | 0:55:41 | |
must guess the identities of the mummers. | 0:55:41 | 0:55:44 | |
Now, who's this one? | 0:55:44 | 0:55:46 | |
Who is this one? I don't know about this one. | 0:55:46 | 0:55:49 | |
It's a funny one. | 0:55:49 | 0:55:50 | |
I'm Monica. | 0:55:50 | 0:55:51 | |
It is a lot of fun. | 0:55:56 | 0:55:59 | |
Possibly more fun than I expected. | 0:55:59 | 0:56:01 | |
I believe I've made some great friends for life. | 0:56:01 | 0:56:05 | |
Cheers. | 0:56:05 | 0:56:06 | |
The fact is that it isn't really just a hotel. | 0:56:06 | 0:56:09 | |
The inn is Fogo Island, and Fogo Island is the inn. | 0:56:09 | 0:56:12 | |
When you come and stay here, it's more even | 0:56:12 | 0:56:14 | |
than a window on a society, | 0:56:14 | 0:56:16 | |
it's like the looking glass in Alice Through the Looking Glass. | 0:56:16 | 0:56:18 | |
You pass through it and you become a fisherman, or a mummer, or a cook. | 0:56:18 | 0:56:22 | |
It's an experience unlike any I've ever had. | 0:56:22 | 0:56:25 | |
# I wanna go back | 0:56:30 | 0:56:33 | |
# When it's capelin time again... # | 0:56:33 | 0:56:37 | |
And around here, celebrations always end with a traditional song | 0:56:37 | 0:56:41 | |
about those little fish called capelin. | 0:56:41 | 0:56:43 | |
# ..And here again | 0:56:45 | 0:56:48 | |
# The lonely seagulls cry | 0:56:48 | 0:56:53 | |
# Oh, take me home | 0:56:53 | 0:56:56 | |
# Once more before I die... # | 0:56:56 | 0:57:01 | |
-You've been busy lately, huh? -You have, too! | 0:57:04 | 0:57:07 | |
It's time to leave. | 0:57:07 | 0:57:08 | |
But before we do, the inn has one last surprise up its sleeve. | 0:57:08 | 0:57:12 | |
-Hello. -Hi. -This is Jake Daniel, and this is Luke Wilson. | 0:57:12 | 0:57:19 | |
Oh, my God, | 0:57:19 | 0:57:21 | |
they're beautiful. | 0:57:21 | 0:57:23 | |
Over on the mainland, | 0:57:23 | 0:57:24 | |
Cynthia's daughter has given birth to twin boys. | 0:57:24 | 0:57:27 | |
It's been lovely being introduced to Jake and Luke, | 0:57:27 | 0:57:29 | |
and I'm reminded that I have to go to see my babies, | 0:57:29 | 0:57:32 | |
and I'll see you again one day soon. | 0:57:32 | 0:57:34 | |
-Someday, hopefully, OK. -Bye. -Goodbye. | 0:57:34 | 0:57:36 | |
The Fogo Island Inn has had grandchildren. | 0:57:38 | 0:57:41 | |
It's amazing how involved everybody is. | 0:57:41 | 0:57:43 | |
It's a very lovely feeling. | 0:57:43 | 0:57:45 | |
But that's only part one of the job done. | 0:57:45 | 0:57:48 | |
The next thing is to get them to come and live here. | 0:57:48 | 0:57:50 | |
It's extraordinary that something as simple as a hotel can come to | 0:57:52 | 0:57:56 | |
symbolise the hopes of a community and its distinctive way of life. | 0:57:56 | 0:57:59 | |
I want to make sure that I do what I can | 0:58:01 | 0:58:05 | |
to hold on to who we are and remain relevant, | 0:58:05 | 0:58:08 | |
doing something that helps gives us | 0:58:08 | 0:58:09 | |
a shot at another 100 years here. | 0:58:09 | 0:58:11 |