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There are hundreds of islands along Scotland's west coast, | 0:00:07 | 0:00:10 | |
each one its own little world, connected to the neighbours | 0:00:10 | 0:00:14 | |
by a great highway - | 0:00:14 | 0:00:15 | |
the Atlantic Ocean. | 0:00:15 | 0:00:17 | |
I'm travelling up the west coast, far into the North Atlantic, | 0:00:17 | 0:00:22 | |
further than we've ever been before, | 0:00:22 | 0:00:25 | |
beyond our shores to foreign islands | 0:00:25 | 0:00:27 | |
in search of a way of life we've all but lost. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:32 | |
My objective - the Faroe Islands, where for over 1,000 years | 0:00:32 | 0:00:37 | |
the descendants of Viking settlers | 0:00:37 | 0:00:40 | |
have struggled to survive and thrive. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:43 | |
CHEERING | 0:00:43 | 0:00:44 | |
I'll explore the forgotten bond between Britain and the Faroes, | 0:00:44 | 0:00:48 | |
island people united by war and love. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:53 | |
Adrift in the vast Atlantic, | 0:01:21 | 0:01:23 | |
the Faroe Islands. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:27 | |
It takes at least 12 hours to get here by boat, | 0:01:29 | 0:01:32 | |
so I've taken the express route to the Faroes - by plane. | 0:01:32 | 0:01:35 | |
What a way to catch my first glimpse of these mystical islands. | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
Oh, yeah, look at that! That is Lord Of The Rings. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:46 | |
It's Middle-earth. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:48 | |
The Faroes are 18 separate islands with nearly 700 miles of coastline, | 0:01:51 | 0:01:56 | |
home to fewer than 50,000 people | 0:01:56 | 0:01:59 | |
who are never more than three miles from the sea. | 0:01:59 | 0:02:02 | |
The landscape's staggeringly beautiful - | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
sheer cliffs, rugged mountains and stunning sea stacks. | 0:02:09 | 0:02:13 | |
It's not surprising, then, | 0:02:13 | 0:02:15 | |
that landing on these islands is pretty hair-raising. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:18 | |
The gateway to the Faroe Islands is this tiny strip of tarmac | 0:02:23 | 0:02:27 | |
and an airport many believe could never be built | 0:02:27 | 0:02:30 | |
in such wild terrain. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:32 | |
We're definitely in the Faroe Islands. I know that | 0:02:35 | 0:02:38 | |
because I can't understand the name of the airport building. | 0:02:38 | 0:02:41 | |
We may be a long way from home, | 0:02:44 | 0:02:46 | |
but we've more connections with these islands than you'd think. | 0:02:46 | 0:02:49 | |
This airport was built by the British Army. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:54 | |
In 1940, the Germans invaded Denmark and Norway. | 0:02:56 | 0:03:00 | |
Britain feared the Germans were aiming to occupy the Faroes | 0:03:00 | 0:03:03 | |
to use as a key U-boat base, so decided to get in there first. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:08 | |
On April 11th, 1940, | 0:03:09 | 0:03:11 | |
Winston Churchill announced that the Danish territory of Faroe | 0:03:11 | 0:03:14 | |
was under British control. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:16 | |
He said, "We shall shield the Faroe Islands from all severities of war | 0:03:16 | 0:03:21 | |
"and establish ourselves there conveniently by sea and air | 0:03:21 | 0:03:25 | |
"until the moment comes when they will be handed back to Denmark, | 0:03:25 | 0:03:29 | |
"liberated from the foul thralldom into which they've been plunged | 0:03:29 | 0:03:33 | |
"by German aggression." | 0:03:33 | 0:03:34 | |
An airport was essential for the British military, | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
but building one in this mountainous terrain seemed impossible. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:45 | |
After several failed surveys, British Army engineers found a spot | 0:03:48 | 0:03:52 | |
flat enough for a runway - just. | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
The airport is as much a lifeline now as in the Second World War, | 0:03:57 | 0:04:02 | |
but that's not all the soldiers left behind. | 0:04:02 | 0:04:05 | |
When the British troops arrived on Vagar, | 0:04:06 | 0:04:08 | |
they found just a handful of vehicles and almost no roads. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
By the time they left, they'd built an entire road network | 0:04:11 | 0:04:14 | |
and they left behind 300 vehicles like this one for the locals. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:18 | |
That must have been just about one each! | 0:04:18 | 0:04:20 | |
MARCHING BAND MUSIC | 0:04:20 | 0:04:22 | |
Tally-ho! | 0:04:22 | 0:04:24 | |
OK. In 1940, the Faroe Islands had 28,000 inhabitants | 0:04:28 | 0:04:33 | |
but very limited resources. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
8,000 British servicemen arriving were bound to make an impact. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:40 | |
Over there, on the flat ground of the modern village, | 0:04:46 | 0:04:49 | |
that was the camp, | 0:04:49 | 0:04:50 | |
so Nissen huts, canteens, barracks, all the paraphernalia of camp life. | 0:04:50 | 0:04:56 | |
This is the site of a huge gun emplacement. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
These are the ammunition stores, | 0:04:59 | 0:05:01 | |
so you get a sense from the size of these just how big the guns were. | 0:05:01 | 0:05:05 | |
The men here were guarding something pretty important. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:10 | |
This inauspicious building, barely touched for 60 years, | 0:05:13 | 0:05:18 | |
could hold a clue as to what that importance was. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
It's a garage now, | 0:05:21 | 0:05:23 | |
the usual petrol and diesel fumes and tools and things. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:26 | |
Up there, a couple of empty offices. Don't know what they're for, | 0:05:26 | 0:05:31 | |
but locals hereabouts will tell you this was a sector headquarters | 0:05:31 | 0:05:35 | |
for the Battle of the North Atlantic. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:37 | |
Look - there's Norway, there's Iceland | 0:05:37 | 0:05:40 | |
and there's the vast black emptiness of the North Atlantic. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
Although operations in the Atlantic were monitored from the Faroes, | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
the troops stationed here didn't see much direct action. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:54 | |
But the story of the British occupation isn't about buildings. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
There's something less tangible but much stronger. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:05 | |
There was a meeting of minds, | 0:06:05 | 0:06:07 | |
island people encountering and understanding other islanders, | 0:06:07 | 0:06:12 | |
and some very special relationships blossomed. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:15 | |
'At the site of the old officers' mess, | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
'I'm meeting local historian Mina Reinhardt | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
'with Ragnhild Tomasson, who was only 19 when the troops arrived.' | 0:06:25 | 0:06:29 | |
What was it like to suddenly have hundreds or thousands | 0:06:30 | 0:06:34 | |
of British troops here, British men here? | 0:06:34 | 0:06:38 | |
What did it do to the atmosphere of the island? | 0:06:38 | 0:06:41 | |
WOMAN TRANSLATES | 0:06:41 | 0:06:43 | |
SHE ANSWERS IN FAROESE | 0:06:46 | 0:06:47 | |
It's wonderful, she says! | 0:06:47 | 0:06:49 | |
What about special friendships with the troops? | 0:06:49 | 0:06:55 | |
Was there anyone who was special to you? | 0:07:11 | 0:07:14 | |
WOMAN TRANSLATES | 0:07:14 | 0:07:16 | |
-Ronnie. -Ronnie. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:18 | |
Ronnie. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:19 | |
This is Ronnie, Ragnhild's fiance, he was at the time. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:25 | |
They were together for one year, and she got a baby by him. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:29 | |
But he left before the baby was born. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
He went to France. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:34 | |
He was an ambulance driver and he was killed in the...D-day. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:41 | |
Oh, dear. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:43 | |
The British and Faroese cemented their relationship | 0:07:46 | 0:07:49 | |
in other ways too. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:50 | |
The Faroese fishing fleet played a vital role in feeding the British | 0:07:50 | 0:07:54 | |
during wartime shortages. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:56 | |
In fact, a fifth of all the fish we ate | 0:07:56 | 0:07:58 | |
was landed by the Faroese fishing fleet, | 0:07:58 | 0:08:01 | |
often at great risk. | 0:08:01 | 0:08:03 | |
In March 1942, | 0:08:04 | 0:08:08 | |
21 Faroese fishermen from Vagar were killed by a German U-boat, | 0:08:08 | 0:08:12 | |
leaving their children fatherless. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
The children of the village, of course, | 0:08:16 | 0:08:19 | |
they looked upon the British soldiers | 0:08:19 | 0:08:22 | |
as kind of father figures. | 0:08:22 | 0:08:24 | |
How strange for these young British men that had gone away to war | 0:08:24 | 0:08:28 | |
to find themselves cast in the role of... | 0:08:28 | 0:08:30 | |
-Of fathers. Yeah. -Of being fathers for these kids. | 0:08:30 | 0:08:35 | |
They were very good to them. | 0:08:35 | 0:08:36 | |
They always brought them chocolates and things and took care of them. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:40 | |
Many of the soldiers were from Scottish regiments, | 0:08:43 | 0:08:46 | |
probably with some sympathy for the rigours of island life. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:50 | |
Some whole-heartedly embraced the traditional struggle to survive, | 0:08:50 | 0:08:55 | |
and that included whaling. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:58 | |
Hunts like this, where boats herd whales into the shore, | 0:09:01 | 0:09:04 | |
only died out in the Scottish islands about 100 years ago. | 0:09:04 | 0:09:07 | |
On the Faroe Islands they still hunt whales today. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:11 | |
The community wants to preserve the tradition | 0:09:14 | 0:09:17 | |
of harvesting the bounty of their seas | 0:09:17 | 0:09:19 | |
despite the objections of the wider world. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:22 | |
Handling boats is a part of everyday life here, | 0:09:32 | 0:09:36 | |
but there's one day a year | 0:09:36 | 0:09:38 | |
when the Faroese really get to show their mettle - | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
the national holiday, St Olaf's Day, July 29th. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:44 | |
The rowing races are the highlight of the festival, | 0:09:44 | 0:09:48 | |
with pride and prizes at stake, and the whole town turns out to watch. | 0:09:48 | 0:09:52 | |
Well, if they can peer through the sea mist. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:55 | |
My name is Runa, and I'm captain for the girls' rowing team | 0:09:56 | 0:10:00 | |
for Torshavn Rowing Club. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:03 | |
Skal! | 0:10:03 | 0:10:05 | |
We always eat together before the race. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:10 | |
If we lose or if we win, it's exciting no matter what. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:14 | |
If we win this race and the championship, we got four trophies. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:19 | |
Yeah, we're going out after the race to party. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
It's a boat for six rowers and it's a traditional Faroese boat | 0:10:27 | 0:10:31 | |
and in the competition, it's the smallest. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:35 | |
You also have boats for eight or ten persons. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:39 | |
CHEERING | 0:10:41 | 0:10:44 | |
Woo! | 0:10:58 | 0:10:59 | |
The champions are triumphant again. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:02 | |
They celebrate their win in a way that's familiar the world over, | 0:11:08 | 0:11:12 | |
youngsters who practise their English watching satellite TV. | 0:11:12 | 0:11:16 | |
The Faroes are remote, but not isolated. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:20 | |
But connections with the original Viking settlers are never far away. | 0:11:27 | 0:11:31 | |
The seafarers who arrived here in 800AD | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
struggled to make a home on these barren, unforgiving rocks. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
Clinging to the coast for food and transport, | 0:11:43 | 0:11:45 | |
slowly, settlements were established. | 0:11:45 | 0:11:47 | |
Something is striking about many of the houses here today. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:52 | |
Camouflaged under a layer of turf, | 0:11:52 | 0:11:55 | |
these dwellings reveal their age-old origins. | 0:11:55 | 0:11:57 | |
And this house has been lived in by the same family for 17 generations. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
Parts of it date back to the end of the Viking era. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
Joannes Patursson is the current resident. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
The thing I notice right away about the outside | 0:12:14 | 0:12:17 | |
is the grass roof. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:18 | |
Grass on top of the roofs, yeah, grass on top of the houses, | 0:12:18 | 0:12:22 | |
which is a very common way of building houses in the Faroes. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:25 | |
You have an abundance of grass all around | 0:12:25 | 0:12:28 | |
and when you then put the grass on top, | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
you have also a very quiet house, fairly well-insulated house, | 0:12:31 | 0:12:35 | |
and also, the weight of the grass, you might say, holds the roof on top | 0:12:35 | 0:12:40 | |
during winter storms. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:41 | |
-Come inside. -OK. -Take a look in the kitchen. | 0:12:43 | 0:12:45 | |
-All right. -Yeah, come inside. | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
'They may have had an abundance of grass, | 0:12:48 | 0:12:50 | |
'but with no trees on the island, wood was in short supply. | 0:12:50 | 0:12:54 | |
'The ancient timber in this house | 0:12:54 | 0:12:55 | |
'had to come hundreds of miles across the sea from Norway.' | 0:12:55 | 0:12:59 | |
The house itself arrived here in late year 1000, probably, | 0:12:59 | 0:13:03 | |
and came as a prefabricated house from Norway. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:06 | |
Really? So they were doing flat-pack housing...? | 0:13:06 | 0:13:09 | |
They built it on location. | 0:13:09 | 0:13:10 | |
They only had, probably, the sails to transport, | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
so it was important that they didn't transport more than necessary, | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
but everything necessary in order to have a finished house | 0:13:16 | 0:13:19 | |
once they arrived. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:20 | |
Up through this door here takes us about 900 years back in time. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:27 | |
No! No way! | 0:13:27 | 0:13:29 | |
So this has been standing for 1,000 years? | 0:13:32 | 0:13:35 | |
Close to it, yeah. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:36 | |
How does it feel knowing that your family have been living here | 0:13:36 | 0:13:42 | |
generation after generation since 1557? | 0:13:42 | 0:13:46 | |
-I don't often... -I mean, talk about a family home! | 0:13:46 | 0:13:49 | |
Yeah, definitely, it's the family home, | 0:13:49 | 0:13:51 | |
and most of their lives have been lived in this room. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:54 | |
I've always lived here, | 0:13:54 | 0:13:55 | |
so it's not something you go around thinking about all the time, | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
but it is, of course, it is special for us. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:01 | |
It's a privilege. We feel it's a privilege. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:05 | |
The privilege of being an island people. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:13 | |
And for over 1,000 years, the Faroese have toiled hard | 0:14:15 | 0:14:19 | |
just to cling onto this precarious land. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:21 | |
The daily chore of getting enough to eat, | 0:14:21 | 0:14:23 | |
the isolation yet kinship of a tiny group of islands | 0:14:23 | 0:14:27 | |
so far from the rest of the world. | 0:14:27 | 0:14:30 | |
This really is life on the edge. | 0:14:30 | 0:14:32 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:14:34 | 0:14:38 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:14:38 | 0:14:41 |