Faroe Islands Coast


Faroe Islands

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There are hundreds of islands along Scotland's west coast,

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each one its own little world, connected to the neighbours

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by a great highway -

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the Atlantic Ocean.

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I'm travelling up the west coast, far into the North Atlantic,

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further than we've ever been before,

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beyond our shores to foreign islands

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in search of a way of life we've all but lost.

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My objective - the Faroe Islands, where for over 1,000 years

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the descendants of Viking settlers

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have struggled to survive and thrive.

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CHEERING

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I'll explore the forgotten bond between Britain and the Faroes,

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island people united by war and love.

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Adrift in the vast Atlantic,

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the Faroe Islands.

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It takes at least 12 hours to get here by boat,

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so I've taken the express route to the Faroes - by plane.

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What a way to catch my first glimpse of these mystical islands.

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Oh, yeah, look at that! That is Lord Of The Rings.

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It's Middle-earth.

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The Faroes are 18 separate islands with nearly 700 miles of coastline,

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home to fewer than 50,000 people

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who are never more than three miles from the sea.

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The landscape's staggeringly beautiful -

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sheer cliffs, rugged mountains and stunning sea stacks.

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It's not surprising, then,

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that landing on these islands is pretty hair-raising.

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The gateway to the Faroe Islands is this tiny strip of tarmac

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and an airport many believe could never be built

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in such wild terrain.

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We're definitely in the Faroe Islands. I know that

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because I can't understand the name of the airport building.

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We may be a long way from home,

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but we've more connections with these islands than you'd think.

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This airport was built by the British Army.

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In 1940, the Germans invaded Denmark and Norway.

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Britain feared the Germans were aiming to occupy the Faroes

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to use as a key U-boat base, so decided to get in there first.

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On April 11th, 1940,

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Winston Churchill announced that the Danish territory of Faroe

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was under British control.

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He said, "We shall shield the Faroe Islands from all severities of war

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"and establish ourselves there conveniently by sea and air

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"until the moment comes when they will be handed back to Denmark,

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"liberated from the foul thralldom into which they've been plunged

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"by German aggression."

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An airport was essential for the British military,

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but building one in this mountainous terrain seemed impossible.

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After several failed surveys, British Army engineers found a spot

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flat enough for a runway - just.

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The airport is as much a lifeline now as in the Second World War,

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but that's not all the soldiers left behind.

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When the British troops arrived on Vagar,

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they found just a handful of vehicles and almost no roads.

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By the time they left, they'd built an entire road network

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and they left behind 300 vehicles like this one for the locals.

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That must have been just about one each!

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MARCHING BAND MUSIC

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Tally-ho!

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OK. In 1940, the Faroe Islands had 28,000 inhabitants

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but very limited resources.

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8,000 British servicemen arriving were bound to make an impact.

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Over there, on the flat ground of the modern village,

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that was the camp,

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so Nissen huts, canteens, barracks, all the paraphernalia of camp life.

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This is the site of a huge gun emplacement.

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These are the ammunition stores,

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so you get a sense from the size of these just how big the guns were.

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The men here were guarding something pretty important.

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This inauspicious building, barely touched for 60 years,

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could hold a clue as to what that importance was.

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It's a garage now,

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the usual petrol and diesel fumes and tools and things.

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Up there, a couple of empty offices. Don't know what they're for,

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but locals hereabouts will tell you this was a sector headquarters

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for the Battle of the North Atlantic.

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Look - there's Norway, there's Iceland

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and there's the vast black emptiness of the North Atlantic.

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Although operations in the Atlantic were monitored from the Faroes,

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the troops stationed here didn't see much direct action.

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But the story of the British occupation isn't about buildings.

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There's something less tangible but much stronger.

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There was a meeting of minds,

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island people encountering and understanding other islanders,

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and some very special relationships blossomed.

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'At the site of the old officers' mess,

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'I'm meeting local historian Mina Reinhardt

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'with Ragnhild Tomasson, who was only 19 when the troops arrived.'

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What was it like to suddenly have hundreds or thousands

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of British troops here, British men here?

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What did it do to the atmosphere of the island?

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WOMAN TRANSLATES

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SHE ANSWERS IN FAROESE

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It's wonderful, she says!

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What about special friendships with the troops?

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Was there anyone who was special to you?

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WOMAN TRANSLATES

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-Ronnie.

-Ronnie.

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Ronnie.

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This is Ronnie, Ragnhild's fiance, he was at the time.

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They were together for one year, and she got a baby by him.

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But he left before the baby was born.

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He went to France.

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He was an ambulance driver and he was killed in the...D-day.

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Oh, dear.

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The British and Faroese cemented their relationship

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in other ways too.

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The Faroese fishing fleet played a vital role in feeding the British

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during wartime shortages.

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In fact, a fifth of all the fish we ate

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was landed by the Faroese fishing fleet,

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often at great risk.

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In March 1942,

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21 Faroese fishermen from Vagar were killed by a German U-boat,

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leaving their children fatherless.

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The children of the village, of course,

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they looked upon the British soldiers

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as kind of father figures.

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How strange for these young British men that had gone away to war

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to find themselves cast in the role of...

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-Of fathers. Yeah.

-Of being fathers for these kids.

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They were very good to them.

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They always brought them chocolates and things and took care of them.

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Many of the soldiers were from Scottish regiments,

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probably with some sympathy for the rigours of island life.

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Some whole-heartedly embraced the traditional struggle to survive,

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and that included whaling.

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Hunts like this, where boats herd whales into the shore,

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only died out in the Scottish islands about 100 years ago.

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On the Faroe Islands they still hunt whales today.

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The community wants to preserve the tradition

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of harvesting the bounty of their seas

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despite the objections of the wider world.

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Handling boats is a part of everyday life here,

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but there's one day a year

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when the Faroese really get to show their mettle -

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the national holiday, St Olaf's Day, July 29th.

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The rowing races are the highlight of the festival,

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with pride and prizes at stake, and the whole town turns out to watch.

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Well, if they can peer through the sea mist.

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My name is Runa, and I'm captain for the girls' rowing team

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for Torshavn Rowing Club.

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Skal!

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We always eat together before the race.

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If we lose or if we win, it's exciting no matter what.

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If we win this race and the championship, we got four trophies.

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Yeah, we're going out after the race to party.

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It's a boat for six rowers and it's a traditional Faroese boat

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and in the competition, it's the smallest.

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You also have boats for eight or ten persons.

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CHEERING

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Woo!

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The champions are triumphant again.

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They celebrate their win in a way that's familiar the world over,

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youngsters who practise their English watching satellite TV.

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The Faroes are remote, but not isolated.

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But connections with the original Viking settlers are never far away.

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The seafarers who arrived here in 800AD

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struggled to make a home on these barren, unforgiving rocks.

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Clinging to the coast for food and transport,

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slowly, settlements were established.

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Something is striking about many of the houses here today.

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Camouflaged under a layer of turf,

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these dwellings reveal their age-old origins.

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And this house has been lived in by the same family for 17 generations.

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Parts of it date back to the end of the Viking era.

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Joannes Patursson is the current resident.

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The thing I notice right away about the outside

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is the grass roof.

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Grass on top of the roofs, yeah, grass on top of the houses,

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which is a very common way of building houses in the Faroes.

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You have an abundance of grass all around

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and when you then put the grass on top,

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you have also a very quiet house, fairly well-insulated house,

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and also, the weight of the grass, you might say, holds the roof on top

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during winter storms.

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-Come inside.

-OK.

-Take a look in the kitchen.

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-All right.

-Yeah, come inside.

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'They may have had an abundance of grass,

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'but with no trees on the island, wood was in short supply.

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'The ancient timber in this house

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'had to come hundreds of miles across the sea from Norway.'

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The house itself arrived here in late year 1000, probably,

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and came as a prefabricated house from Norway.

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Really? So they were doing flat-pack housing...?

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They built it on location.

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They only had, probably, the sails to transport,

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so it was important that they didn't transport more than necessary,

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but everything necessary in order to have a finished house

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once they arrived.

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Up through this door here takes us about 900 years back in time.

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No! No way!

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So this has been standing for 1,000 years?

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Close to it, yeah.

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How does it feel knowing that your family have been living here

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generation after generation since 1557?

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-I don't often...

-I mean, talk about a family home!

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Yeah, definitely, it's the family home,

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and most of their lives have been lived in this room.

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I've always lived here,

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so it's not something you go around thinking about all the time,

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but it is, of course, it is special for us.

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It's a privilege. We feel it's a privilege.

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The privilege of being an island people.

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And for over 1,000 years, the Faroese have toiled hard

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just to cling onto this precarious land.

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The daily chore of getting enough to eat,

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the isolation yet kinship of a tiny group of islands

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so far from the rest of the world.

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This really is life on the edge.

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Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

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E-mail [email protected]

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