Devon and Cornwall Coast


Devon and Cornwall

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England's stunning South West coast.

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-# In Brixham I was born

-Bring 'em down!

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# But Exmouth is me home from home... #

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Boatmen know this shore better than most, and we're here to join them.

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# We're never a day behind the tide

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# Around Cape Horn we'll go... #

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Bring 'em down!

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We're embarking on a voyage of discovery in boats -

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both big and small!

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I'm not the only one of the Coast crew who's taken to the water.

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Mark's on a mission to see how the need for speed

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created life-saving craft for the Second World War.

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Miranda's on the waves...

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and under them, searching out seals.

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And I hit the high seas - head on!

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Bring 'em down!

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-# This is now your home, my boy

-Bring 'em down! #

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This is Coast.

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Our journey takes us along Devon's coast and into Cornwall,

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out to the Isles of Scilly,

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then back to the mainland to drop anchor near Bideford.

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But we begin at Brixham.

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This small harbour has a big story to tell.

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It's the birthplace of this beautiful class of sailing craft,

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the famous Brixham Trawler.

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I'm on board one of the last that's left afloat.

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But this quayside - and many others around Britain -

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used to bustle with Brixham Trawlers.

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How did this port come to pioneer a trawling revolution that spread around our shores?

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The old fish market is quiet today,

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but 100 years ago, this place was swimming in fish.

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I'm meeting up with veteran Brixham fisherman, Bill Wakeham.

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What would the atmosphere have been like where we're standing?

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It would be like a main street of London,

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people would be going back and forth all day,

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coming down picking up fish, there'd be boats taking stores on board to go away,

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there'd be filleters, packers, people with horse and carts,

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small lorries coming in and out all the time.

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-What are these fish on the ground?

-That'd be skate.

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So these were trawled and brought into the market to be sold?

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Yeah. But then in the 1860s,

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they brought the railway into Brixham, and all of a sudden...

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Manchester, Birmingham, London was open then overnight.

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-The railway changed everything?

-Everything.

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The boats doubled in number in a matter of ten years.

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Harbour towns like Brixham began to boom when the railways arrived.

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Before then, there was little point catching more fish than the locals could eat.

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But rapid transport by train meant fish could now be sold fresh in the big cities.

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Brixham seized the initiative, taking the ancient art of trawling to a new level.

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Large, fast sailing craft capable of dragging big, heavy nets were commissioned.

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Their purpose?

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To catch more fish than ever before.

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Only when you get close you realise how big these sailing trawlers are.

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Yeah, some size, aren't they? Everything's solidly built with it.

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The Keewaydin is one of the few Brixham Trawlers still sailing.

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100 years ago, they went out in waters teeming with fish.

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Trawlers like this one landing up to a ton a day.

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But could they manage that now?

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We're on a mission to see what impact these boats have had on the seas they once sailed.

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Ruth Thurstan, from the University of York,

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has analysed records of UK catches going back to 1889.

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So we can see the effect of the trawling revolution started by these boats.

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Throughout the late 19th century, fish landings were increasing -

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this was because vessels were getting bigger and more seaworthy

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and could go further out to sea to fish.

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And then, once you get to really the 1970s, you get this big drop.

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It just goes over the edge of a cliff, doesn't it?

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Yes. You can see from that point, it keeps dropping.

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However, fishing vessels have been getting more sophisticated,

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and their ability to catch fish has been increasing and increasing over this entire period of time.

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-So you'd think landings would continue to go up and up.

-Yeah, exactly. Yeah.

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And of course, they haven't, because the stocks couldn't take that pressure.

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The impact of beam trawling on fish like cod and plaice has been immense.

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The research indicates that nine out of ten

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of these bottom-feeding fish have been scooped from our seas.

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Fishing has always been tough,

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but with dwindling fish stocks, today's fishermen have to work even harder.

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Research into the history of catches reached a staggering conclusion.

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Fishing vessels today are having to work 17 times as hard

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in order to catch the same amount of fish that they were catching in 1889.

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-17 times harder to get the same number of fish?

-Yes.

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We're chasing some of the last fish in the sea.

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Decent catches are only possible because of the technology in today's trawlers.

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Fishermen work more effectively than their grandfathers,

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but some fish stocks are much lower.

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Nine out of ten cod, plaice and haddock have been taken in just over a century.

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The Brixham Trawlers began a boom that fed the appetite of Britain.

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Now these boats have gone...

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and so has their catch.

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The south coast of Devon.

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It's not all golden sands and cream teas.

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The locals originally earned their living from the sea,

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with fishing, boat-building and the occasional bit of smuggling.

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There are plenty of pleasure craft on this coast,

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but others take to sea in deadly earnest.

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Like here, at Plymouth.

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The port is home to the largest naval base in western Europe.

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The Royal Navy may boast the biggest ships here,

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but for years, this was home to small, life-saving boats of the Royal Air Force.

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During the Second World War,

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the vessels of the Air/Sea Rescue Service

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were the saviour of RAF crew who'd ditched in the sea.

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To discover how these speedboats were born,

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Mark Horton's meeting an Air/Sea Rescue veteran.

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70 years ago, Alf Emmerson was one of the fastest men on the water.

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He's 94 now, but his passion for fast boats is still strong.

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In a quiet corner of the marina, an old Air/Sea Rescue boat,

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like Alf used to pilot, is being brought back to life.

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Is this similar to the ones that you worked on?

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Yes, by Jove, it is.

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-When where you last on board one of these things?

-60 years ago!

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Right.

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There's no stopping him, is there?!

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No, no, he's away.

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Oh, yes!

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Look!

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Slow...

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Half... Ahead.

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Oh, blimey!

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Back when Alf was a captain, opening a throttle would power his boat over the water at up to 35 knots.

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A quick response was crucial in saving ditched pilots from the freezing sea.

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The rescue boats were the unsung heroes of the Second World War,

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but their greatest champion was a hero of the First World War.

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None other than Lawrence of Arabia!

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Lawrence's adventure in the desert campaigns made him a national celebrity.

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But by 1929, to escape the limelight,

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he came to Plymouth on a very different mission.

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When he arrived here, Lawrence of Arabia wasn't Lawrence any more -

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he'd changed his name to Shaw.

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Aircraftman Shaw had entered the Royal Air Force with a quiet posting to Plymouth away from publicity.

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But the work that Lawrence did on this coast

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would thrust him back into the limelight

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and help bring to British military a new type of vessel -

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speedboats like this.

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Famed for living dangerously,

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when Lawrence wasn't buzzing around Plymouth on his motorcycle,

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he took to the sea in his new speedboat.

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Lawrence's biographer is Jeremy Wilson.

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So it was a boat very much like this?

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-Yep, yes.

-There she is.

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Did actually Lawrence enjoy boating?

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No, he loved boating, he loved anything that went fast,

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and the sensation of speed, driving around in this thing,

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must have been absolutely wonderful for him.

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Lawrence used his speedboat to escape the frustrations of his duties

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whilst stationed at the RAF seaplane base in Plymouth.

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Lawrence's fast craft was in stark contrast

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to the ponderous, old-fashioned vessels used to reach the seaplanes.

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In 1931, Lawrence's frustration with these slow vessels would reach breaking point

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when he witnessed a terrible flying boat crash.

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The seaplane was being piloted by an inexperienced pilot

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who wasn't fully trained, and he crashed it

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and killed himself and a fair number of the people on board.

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Lawrence rushed down to the duty boat, and they came out to the site,

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they chugged out to the site in this old-fashioned boat,

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and it was obvious that if they'd used a fast motorboat,

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they would have got there far faster, they would have saved more lives.

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Lawrence knew lives depended on faster rescue craft.

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It became his mission to persuade the RAF to adopt new designs,

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more like his own speedboat.

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Fortunately, a far-sighted British designer, Hubert Scott-Paine,

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was already developing revolutionary fast boats.

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In 1931, Lawrence was assigned to trial the new craft for the RAF.

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To understand the novel design of the boats Lawrence was testing,

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you need to look below their waterline.

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The crucial thing was the shape of their hull.

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That is the new type of boat. This is the old type.

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-Exactly, yes.

-What's the difference?

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Well, the old boats - like your ship here -

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are called displacement hulls.

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They're round-bilged and very heavily built,

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so they operate at what is called displacement speed.

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So as the hull goes through the water,

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it has to... move all the water underneath it?

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It literally pushes the water aside as it goes along.

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Now, if you look at a modern hull like this one,

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you'll see it's very sharp entry,

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a flat bottom, and designed to travel over the water and not through it.

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So the boat, as you increase the power, will lift itself

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up onto what's called the plane

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and then proceed a lot faster than its displacement speed.

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Let's have a go.

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So if we set it moving, it starts off at displacement speed.

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Then if we open the throttle, it'll start to plane,

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and the shape of the bow lifts the forward part of the boat out of the water.

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So the boat literally rides up over the wave...

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Over the waves and can go a lot quicker.

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'This novel hull design was adopted by the RAF

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'for a new fleet of fast, life-saving craft.'

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These boats that Lawrence of Arabia had helped to develop

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were ready for the Second World War.

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The RAF's Air/Sea Rescue service now had the tools to do their job more effectively.

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During the War, the Rescue Service saved some 13,000 lives,

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but sadly, Lawrence never saw his beloved boats in action.

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He died after a motorcycle crash in 1935.

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Lawrence's love of speed, that would save so many lives,

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took his own.

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On our journey around the South West,

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I'm heading out to the edge of the Atlantic -

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the Isles of Scilly.

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It takes around two and a half hours to reach the islands aboard the Scillonian ferry.

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The Atlantic swell and rolling waves make this one of Britain's great voyages.

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Believe it or not...

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this is a fairly mild day!

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This passage of water is notorious for its heaving seas,

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a reputation which has given this little ship the nickname...

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The Great White Stomach Pump.

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And I'm beginning to know why.

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This vital link between the Isles of Scilly

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keeps going through all weather and it's an unforgettable journey.

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The Scillies are an archipelago with over 100 islands of all shapes and sizes.

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Getting around means hopping off one boat and straight onto another.

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'Only five of the isles in the Scillies are inhabited.'

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The most northerly is St Martin's.

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It may be a small community with a slow pace of life,

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but you can still get fast food.

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Here on St Martin's is one of the most remote fish and chip shops in the UK,

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but that's not the only reason it's unusual.

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Unlike other chippies, this one doesn't rely on a delivery van for its ingredients.

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Islanders have to be resourceful.

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To get the catch of the day,

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I'm meeting up with the restaurant's fisherman, cook and owner, Adam Morton.

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What made you open a fish and chip shop on a tiny island in the Atlantic?

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I needed an outlet to sell my fish.

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There was nothing of that nature on the island,

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so I gave it a try and haven't looked back since.

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When Adam goes out, he only takes enough fish for a night's serving.

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He uses a line to catch pollock.

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-There's definitely one on there.

-You got one?

-Yeah.

-Got a fish!

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-These...

-That's a good-size fish.

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-..will go in the restaurant.

-That is beautiful.

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I think we might just have another one - can you feel that?

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Yeah.

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OK, that will do us for today. That's all I need for tonight in the restaurant.

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'A fish supper wouldn't be complete without chips.

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'Adam's brother James looks after the spuds.'

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Quite a family team - one brother catching the fresh fish and the other one...

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growing the organic potatoes.

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Yeah, well, over here, you know,

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there's only a 100 people on the island in total,

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so you do tend to end up working with family most of the time.

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Within half an hour, the spuds are sizzling,

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along with the pollock plucked this afternoon from the sea.

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A small-scale, sustainable operation.

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Fiona, thank you very much indeed. That looks fantastic, thank you.

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This is the freshest plate of fish and chips I've ever been served - it's barely two hours old.

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The pollock...

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A bit sad, given it was such a beautiful fish, but look at that.

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Mmm!

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I'm not the only mouth around here that needs feeding.

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Miranda's in search of another mammal with a healthy appetite for fish.

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'The Isles of Scilly are a great place to see grey seals.

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'Around 250 have colonised the rocky outcrops around the eastern islands.'

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One of the unusual things that brings the seals here

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is actually the grass,

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and it's rather special grass that grows underwater.

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'This wonderful underwater garden is a perfect breeding ground for fish.

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'I'm hitching a ride with a team of marine biologists heading out to survey the sea grass.

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'Hopefully, the seals won't be too far away.'

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So why is sea grass so important? What is it about the habitat

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that makes it so important and worth protecting?

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It's vital for fish like cod, pollock, bass.

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The juvenile animals live in the sea grass

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and they grow up to a bigger size.

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-It's a great place to hide.

-Exactly. It provides shelter from predators

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that might come in, trying to eat them.

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'Time for me to get a seal's-eye view of the long grass where tasty treats might be hiding,

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'and you don't have to go too far down to see it.

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'Sea grass thrives in shallow waters,

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'because, like any other green plant, it needs sunlight to grow.'

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It's beautiful down there, the water is crystal clear -

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it's like diving in the Bahamas!

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This is one of a few flowering plants that grows in the sea,

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relying on water-borne pollen to reproduce.

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The sea grass flourishes in the warm tidal streams around the Isles of Scilly.

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The shelter of the lush underwater meadow generates rich pickings for hungry seals who hunt nearby.

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They haul themselves onto rocks to digest their food.

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Seals eat a tenth of their body weight a day and they're not fussy.

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Sand-eels, cod and pollock are all fair game.

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High tide's the best time to see them hunting.

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I'm hoping for a close encounter.

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The best way to get their attention is to be really still,

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relaxed, unthreatening and let them come to you.

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Wow! Just had one of the adults swim right underneath me,

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playing with my fins, swimming around,

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just checking me out, and then just swam straight off.

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Absolutely beautiful.

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Seals spend four days at sea for every one on land,

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and this one seems quite happy to hang out with me.

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It's a real privilege.

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They're really beautifully designed for the water,

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the torpedo-shaped body, completely streamlined.

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And these amazing whiskers on their face.

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Those whiskers are super sensitive.

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They can detect the trail of disturbed water left by a fish up to half a minute after it's passed.

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Oh!

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That was truly amazing.

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We just had such great fun, there are loads of seals out there,

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wanted to be really playful. Oh, just really beautiful.

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The seals are part of a magical world,

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one where grass grows under the sea, and sharing it with them was an experience I'll never forget.

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'Leaving the Isles of Scilly, I'm heading back to the mainland,

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'taking the direct route over to the Cornish coast.'

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This jagged shore has always inspired mixed feelings.

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Many ships have been wrecked here and many lives lost.

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But the raging sea also brings some to contemplate its power.

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What better place to linger than here?

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A tiny refuge with a remarkable sea view,

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built by a rather eccentric clergyman.

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This is known as Hawker's Hut.

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It was built in the 19th century by the local vicar.

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Robert Stephen Hawker was no ordinary cleric.

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He once posed as a mermaid and used to take his pet pig on parish visits.

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He constructed this hut using timbers salvaged from shipwrecks.

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And there was never any shortage of wrecks around these craggy cliffs.

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Being a man of the cloth,

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Hawker couldn't turn a blind eye to the fate of those who perished.

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Hawker took it on himself to carry the bodies of drowned sailors from that beach

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all of the way up the cliffs and then half a mile inland to the church,

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where he could give them a Christian burial.

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The Reverend Hawker brought the bodies of around 40 sailors to his parish church at Morwenstow.

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The men were buried in a plot marked by the salvaged figurehead

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from The Caledonian, which sank in 1843, drowning many of her crew not far from this churchyard.

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Most sailors whose lives end in tragedy at sea have no known grave,

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but Hawker - a man of wonderful eccentricity and great compassion -

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made those that those who were cast onto the shores of his own parish were not forgotten.

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He turned this into a kind of shrine,

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somewhere to contemplate the price seafarers have paid

0:25:020:25:06

for sailing this rugged coast.

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Bideford's link to the sea is the River Torridge,

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which opens into a peaceful estuary...

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..with skeletal remains concealed in the mud.

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This is like an elephant's graveyard for ships.

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It's where old boats come to die.

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It might look like the maritime heritage here is dying,

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but these wrecks litter the lair of a much bigger beast.

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That'll be the shipyard, then.

0:25:410:25:43

This sleepy corner of Devon

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is the unlikely home of a ship-building industry dating back over 500 years.

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The Appledore Shipyard has built more than 350 vessels -

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among them, the Scillonian ferry

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that took me to the Isles of Scilly earlier.

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They've also worked on some of the Navy's biggest ships.

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Gerald Lee was here when this building was opened 40 years ago.

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We've built tankers, gas carriers, platform support vessels,

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ferries, tugs. You name it, we've had a go at it.

0:26:230:26:27

What are you particularly proud of?

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HMS Scott has got to be up amongst it, for the Royal Navy.

0:26:290:26:35

When you think that she was 128 metres long, and the dock is only...

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124, it takes some working out.

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Did you build her without a front? How did she fit?

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We fitted her in diagonally, and the bowsprit came right out over the dock head,

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so it was an achievement, yes.

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My journey around the south west coast has taken me onto the water in boats of all shapes and sizes.

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Oh, my goodness, look at that!

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Here, the call of the open sea is very much alive.

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In the ebb and flow of history, industries come and go,

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empires come and go.

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But there are some traditions, some ways of life -

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boat-building, fishing, sailing -

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that are so much a part of what it means to be an islander that they'll never disappear.

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And here in the West Country, they seem to be thriving.

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