Sea and the City Coast


Sea and the City

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We're taking a city break.

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Around our isles, the coast is ringed with cities.

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From the smallest...

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to the grandest -

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their lifeblood's the sea.

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A city can thrive on its coastal connections,

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but it's a relationship that can bring both prosperity and pain.

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Mark's on board to see how navigation

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put one city at the centre of the world's sea charts.

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This is the story of how London,

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a city 50 miles from the open sea,

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became the capital of global navigation.

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And Tessa's going underground

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to investigate a secret wartime threat.

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A forgotten but extraordinary story how, in World War II,

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we stopped the Nazis flooding London.

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Ruth exposes an urban epidemic spread by the sea.

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As the sailors flood into the city,

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a silent danger looms.

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And I'll be immersed in a tidal wave of trade...

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..as I uncover the unsung port all our cities rely on.

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Join us to put the sea back into the city.

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This is Coast!

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For centuries, the beating hearts of our coastal cities

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were the docklands that fed them.

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But today these urban landscapes have transformed

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to suit changing times.

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In Cardiff, redundant docks have been dammed

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to create a freshwater lake -

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a perfect pond for pleasure.

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Bristol's great floating harbour is now a home of heritage.

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And in Liverpool, apartments not ships

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stack up along the waterfront.

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So where has the trade that once filled these docks disappeared to?

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I'm finding out what happens when the sea moves out of the city.

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A journey that's brought me to the Humber,

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to explore an unsung hero of our isles -

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the mega port at Immingham.

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Some seaports grow up slowly over centuries,

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but Immingham sprang up as a super port,

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practically a city in its own right.

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More tonnes of cargo arrive here than at any other port in the UK.

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Its towering skyline marks a dramatic new chapter

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in the story of the sea and our cities.

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Pedal power suits this mini city.

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Immingham's so big it has its own road and rail network.

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A bevy of workers beaver away to keep our coastal trade rolling

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day and night.

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Every cog, ship,

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train and crane

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dances to the tune of our country's needs.

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Go back a century, though,

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and this working landscape looked very different.

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At the turn of the 20th century,

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Immingham was a sleepy backwater.

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How did it spring up into this city of enterprise?

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Immingham was transformed into an industrial powerhouse

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by mountains of coal.

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In the early 1900s, coal was being mined at a ferocious rate -

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black treasure sought across the globe.

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To convey our great export,

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super-sized ships were called on.

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The Humber's urban ports at Grimsby and Hull

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couldn't expand sufficiently.

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So, in 1912, Immingham was purpose-built,

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opened in pomp and circumstance

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by the King himself.

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100 years on, coal mines have closed

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but Immingham is still awash with the black stuff.

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Today, though, the traffic's going in reverse.

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Surprisingly, coal is still king here,

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but rather than shipping it out,

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huge boats now bring coal in.

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They're importing tonnes of it.

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This might look like a minnow nudging a whale,

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but these tiny tugs are incredibly powerful,

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and they have to be, because some of the ships sailing into Immingham

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weigh 200,000 tonnes.

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Overseeing this mountainous operation

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is port director John Fitzgerald.

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How much coal's actually passing through this port now?

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Well, this year we're on track for about 14 million tonnes.

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I'm quite surprised because, you know, I'm not the only one

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who thought that Britain was decarbonising

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and heading towards renewable fuels,

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and yet we're surrounded by...

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literally, mountains of the black stuff.

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Nearly 50% of all the electricity generated in the UK

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is generated from coal,

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and that, effectively, means that the coal here at Immingham

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is powering well over three million homes.

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As we struggle to end our dependence on fossil fuels,

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Immingham helps keep our lights on.

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Out there in the North Sea,

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there's always another coal ship waiting to come in,

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then another then another,

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vessels queuing up to disgorge their cargoes

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into this energy capital on England's east coast.

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I'll embark on a 24-hour exploration of this vast site,

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to see how the port's kept on call for cargo around the clock.

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One advantage of using the sea as a highway...

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..this city traffic flows without the traffic jams.

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Deep-water city docks export British cars across the world.

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But 300 years ago,

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a maritime mystery made global sea trade much more difficult.

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In the 18th century, sailors had no way of knowing

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their precise position at sea.

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How would cracking the question of navigation

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put our capital on every mariner's map?

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For centuries, London's made the most

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of its narrow link with the sea.

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Mark's discovering how the city became

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the centre of the maritime world.

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The most important location for any sailor at sea

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is marked by a single line

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drawn through a surprisingly urban setting -

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London.

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Or, more precisely, Greenwich.

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This is the home of the Prime Meridian,

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the reference line for every ship at sea.

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But how did it end up here?

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This is the story of how London,

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a city 50 miles from the open sea,

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became the capital of global navigation.

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Our story starts some 300 years ago,

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with a maritime mystery that perplexed sailors around the world.

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It may sound unbelievable today,

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but up until the 1700s, sailors could not determine

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their exact position at sea -

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it was all a matter of guesswork.

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In sight of the coast, seafarers could navigate using landmarks.

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But in the 18th century, global trade was growing.

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For ships to cross oceans,

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sailors needed a new way to work out their location.

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To understand more, I'm meeting with historian Simon Schaffer.

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-Hi!

-Hi!

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Simon, why in the 18th century

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was there this sudden need to know where we were?

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Up till then, most trade routes

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and most military enterprises that mattered

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had been local, they'd been European,

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and that meant you could navigate along the coasts.

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But now, from the late 1600s, early 1700s, Britain goes global,

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big time, and that means

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long-range voyages across oceans

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where you could not stick to the coasts.

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There were two places in particular that really mattered -

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the West Indies, where the sugar trade was based,

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and the East Indies and India,

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where spices were imported.

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Why where ocean voyages so difficult?

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300 years ago, sailors could determine

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how far north or south they were,

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thanks to the sun.

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This was their latitude.

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But no-one knew how to measure how east or west they were -

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longitude.

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So, if solving longitude was so important,

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why hadn't anyone come up with a solution?

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Even the world's top scientists were stumped.

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In desperation, the Government took a novel step.

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In 1714, they threw the question open to the general public.

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Men across the country brought their solutions to London

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to be examined by a government committee like no other -

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the Board of Longitude...

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..a panel of the great and good,

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Britain's brightest brains.

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They offered a huge cash prize to anyone clever enough

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to crack the riddle of longitude.

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Unsurprisingly, hundreds of submissions flew in.

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Inventive, beautiful but sadly harebrained schemes.

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Decades passed with no practical solution.

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The Board of Longitude became a national joke.

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A very good example of this is this image made by William Hogarth

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in the 1730s,

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which is a picture of Bedlam -

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the vast and sprawling London madhouse -

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and Hogarth was put right in the middle of this picture

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of a lunatic asylum -

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a man scribbling, and the man is drawing a longitude scheme.

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After years of head-scratching, what had the board come up with?

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There was one concept they all agreed on.

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The secret to determining longitude was time.

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BELL TOLLS

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As long as you know the time at a fixed point like Greenwich,

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then you can work out where you are anywhere in the world.

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Because the Earth rotates,

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the sun rises in the east,

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so midday will be earlier on this side of Greenwich

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and later on this side.

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These lines represent lines of longitude.

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It takes two hours for the sun to travel

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from one line to the next.

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So, if it's noon at Greenwich,

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it's...

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2pm here...

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and 10am here.

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That time difference between local time

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and Greenwich time

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could be converted to distance from Greenwich.

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Local time was easy -

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when the sun was highest,

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they knew it was noon.

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But how could they keep track of time in Greenwich?

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300 years ago, this was the only kind of clock sailors had.

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Pendulum clocks just don't work on board boats.

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They needed a new method to keep Greenwich time.

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Fundamentally, there were two approaches that seemed viable.

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One was carrying Greenwich time with you in a box -

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that meant building a very reliable and accurate clock.

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The other was observing the time of events in the heavens

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using astronomy.

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In 1764, the two leading methods

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were trialled on a voyage to Barbados.

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First up, the astronomical, or lunar, method.

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This uses the clockwork nature of the sky at night

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as a huge celestial timekeeper.

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All you need is a sextant to measure

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the angles between the moon and certain stars.

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Once you've got your angle,

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you can work out what time it is in Greenwich - easy.

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But the maths back then, took over four hours.

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Fiddly calculations aside,

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the Barbados trial showed the lunar method

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to be accurate to within one degree of longitude.

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But that could still mean a ship was more than 60 miles adrift.

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Surely there was another option?

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Next up, a sea clock,

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submitted by an unknown carpenter from Yorkshire, John Harrison.

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The rocking motion of ships

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interrupted the timekeeping of pendulum clocks,

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but Harrison had spent years perfecting a new design.

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Harrison's clock was like none other.

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In fact, it wasn't a clock,

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it was modelled on a watch.

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Using springs instead of a pendulum,

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the watch only lost 40 seconds

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during the seven-week Barbados voyage.

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At last, sailors could carry Greenwich time with them.

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This incredible clock

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had finally solved the problem of longitude.

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The end, surely?

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Harrison thought he'd cracked longitude -

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the board, however, thought otherwise.

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Harrison was the greatest clockmaker of the age,

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and it had taken him years and years to build his marine watch.

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That was ONE watch.

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That scheme would only work if every mariner had a watch.

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The board rewarded Harrison,

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but refused to give him recognition for cracking longitude

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until accurate sea-going clocks could be mass produced.

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Harrison never lived to see it.

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It took another 40 years for clocks to become commonplace on our seas.

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In the meantime, sailors across the world

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persevered with the lunar method.

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And it was astronomical data

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compiled here in Greenwich that became their bible,

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with far-reaching consequences for the city.

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The astronomers here in Greenwich

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began to make books exactly like this.

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This is the book called The Nautical Almanac.

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On these pages, the distance of the moon from a list of stars

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is tabulated with exquisite precision,

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based on the longitude of Greenwich as zero.

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Every mariner who used these tables

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would be assuming that Greenwich was the origin of time,

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and therefore the origin of longitude.

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Those British books circulated around the globe.

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All used Greenwich

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as their reference point.

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Most mariners acquired the habit of looking to London

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to work out their location.

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In 1884, a world conference

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confirmed our capital's connection to the sea.

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When it came to a vote, it was official -

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Greenwich was sanctioned

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as the Prime Meridian,

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the line of zero degree longitude.

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Greenwich remains the centre of the maritime world.

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But where is the capital's once-thriving sea trade?

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Out towards the edge of the Thames Estuary

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a new mega port has been taking shape,

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London Gateway.

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Around our isles, we've constructed large out-of-town ports.

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When every second counts,

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how do they get goods off the sea

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and into our cities?

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I'm caught up in a hive of activity at Immingham.

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Global sea trade demands that ships keep moving.

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Delays cost companies and, ultimately, us.

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The volume of traffic here is relentless.

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Connecting everything are these roll-on/roll-off trailers.

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A 24-hour operation, overseen by Mark Reeve.

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We bring a vast amount of cargo in.

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It can be anything from food, timber, steels,

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chemicals, as well - import and export.

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So a very wide and diversified cargo.

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How long do you have to turn a ship around? To get it out again?

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Something like the vessel that's come in from Esbjerg in Denmark today -

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200-plus trailers in, 200-plus trailers out -

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-we can turn that around in six hours.

-That's shifting!

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Yeah, that's going some. That's going some.

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The container port is just one district

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in this city-sized enterprise.

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More fiddly cargo is delivered by the boatload

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and moved by the tonne.

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Heavy lifting - which presents me

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with the opportunity to realise a boyhood ambition.

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After ten years on Coast, I, Nick Crane,

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finally get to do a story on cranes!

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Crane driver Chris Jubb is showing me his elevated office.

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Not a lot of space in here, is there, Chris?

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No, they're only built for one, Nick.

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What are you unloading here?

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Today, we've got 13,000 tonnes of salt coming from Egypt.

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-Is that road salt?

-That's road salt, yeah.

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What are the qualities you need to be a dockside crane-driver?

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I've heard it likened to the same as an airline pilot

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on takeoff and landing,

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the concentration that's needed.

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So how much salt can you lift up in one go?

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-It's 12 tonnes of salt in that grab.

-That's a lot.

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On top of the world up here, aren't you, looking down on the port.

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The pinnacle of a manual-grades career.

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NICK LAUGHS

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Chris makes it look easy,

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but guiding this massive grabber into the precise position

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to dump its load into the hopper

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takes skill and experience.

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How long to train me to do something like this?

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You're looking at least a year.

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Yeah, I can believe it.

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I might not have a year,

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but I can't come all this way without having a go.

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Chris has a novel challenge in store for a novice like me.

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Have I got the spatial awareness to drive a monster crane?

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We're about to find out.

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Well, there's an awful lot of controls in here.

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The only two you'll be looking at today

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are the basic controls -

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which is the jib lever, for slewing left to right,

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and your right-hand lever, which is for lifting the grab,

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lowering the grab, opening the grab and closing the grab.

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-Shall I give it a go?

-Give it a go, yeah.

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Nice and gently. Slow...slow. Ease the lever back gently.

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You need a light touch as a crane-driver.

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Them small movements are the key movements.

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If you want to try and position yourself over that traffic cone there.

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-OK...

-We'll try and grab hold of the traffic cone.

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Once you think you're somewhere over it,

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just gently bring her down.

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Now start looking out the window.

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Am I going to knock it over now?

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If I try and do a grab now... A bit lower maybe?

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Oh! Now I've knocked it over. I'm doomed!

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Oh, yes! Got it! Bingo.

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Gently lift her up. Gently lift her up.

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Well done. NICK LAUGHS

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You're the first person I've ever taught to grab a cone before.

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That's so difficult!

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-But could you do that for eight hours a day?

-I'd be drained.

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I'd be absolutely drained.

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I think I'll leave the heavy lifting to the professionals!

0:26:440:26:47

That was great fun. I've always wanted to drive a crane.

0:26:510:26:54

It's amazing what a hands-on business our sea trade still is.

0:26:540:26:58

Our great cities weren't only built on the back of trade.

0:27:050:27:09

On the south coast, major cities owed their existence to the Navy.

0:27:180:27:22

As the Royal fleet grew up,

0:27:270:27:29

so did a vast and varied population.

0:27:290:27:32

As they know in Portsmouth.

0:27:380:27:41

This is our oldest naval base.

0:27:560:27:58

In its docks, the city proudly displays ships that brought

0:28:030:28:06

victory to our isles.

0:28:060:28:08

But there's a less-celebrated story here, too.

0:28:100:28:13

In the 19th century,

0:28:150:28:17

naval ships and their sailors carried disease from overseas.

0:28:170:28:21

Ruth is exploring how the port put the city in peril.

0:28:230:28:27

# The captain's daughter, I suppose

0:28:280:28:31

# Could be called an English rose

0:28:310:28:33

# What would you think if I propose?

0:28:330:28:36

# The pox she gave to me a dose... #

0:28:360:28:39

It's February 1856,

0:28:390:28:40

and the Crimean War has just ended.

0:28:400:28:43

The Royal Navy is heading back into Portsmouth,

0:28:430:28:46

but as the sailors flood into the city,

0:28:460:28:49

a silent danger looms.

0:28:490:28:52

The Royal Navy was plagued with a sexually transmitted disease -

0:28:550:28:59

over a third of the men admitted to hospital had syphilis.

0:28:590:29:02

The statistics were staggering.

0:29:050:29:07

In one year alone,

0:29:070:29:09

the Royal Navy lost 77,000 working days

0:29:090:29:12

to sickness from syphilis.

0:29:120:29:15

The Government saw syphilis

0:29:180:29:20

as a threat to national security.

0:29:200:29:22

Our naval cities were on the front line of a war.

0:29:220:29:26

So, what exactly is syphilis?

0:29:300:29:32

The disease scandalised Victorian Britain,

0:29:330:29:36

and it still has the power to shock.

0:29:360:29:39

Medical historian Pauline Price has some disturbing images.

0:29:390:29:43

The primary symptoms would be hard lumps called chancres,

0:29:450:29:50

and then you would end up

0:29:500:29:53

perhaps coming onto this stage, this is the secondary syphilis,

0:29:530:29:57

and you've got a lot of pustules around the chest, on the face,

0:29:570:30:01

and that would make you feel very tired, very ill.

0:30:010:30:05

That might disappear after about six weeks,

0:30:050:30:08

and then you might have

0:30:080:30:10

a period of 5 to 20 years where it was latent -

0:30:100:30:13

hadn't gone away, but you had no symptoms.

0:30:130:30:15

And then you would start developing the tertiary symptoms,

0:30:150:30:20

and these are even worse,

0:30:200:30:21

and you can imagine the results of these is usually death.

0:30:210:30:25

So, what could people do to treat it?

0:30:250:30:27

They would have various forms of mercury treatment -

0:30:270:30:31

they might make it into pills,

0:30:310:30:33

a lotion.

0:30:330:30:34

Mercury's a really poisonous substance, isn't it?

0:30:340:30:37

The effects on the body are truly vile.

0:30:370:30:39

Well, that was the Victorian idea,

0:30:390:30:41

that you were purging your system, so if you salivated,

0:30:410:30:44

if you vomited, then you're getting out of the system

0:30:440:30:46

the things that are making you ill.

0:30:460:30:48

And if you did go through with the treatment,

0:30:480:30:50

would it actually cure the syphilis?

0:30:500:30:52

No, it wouldn't. They just didn't have the science.

0:30:520:30:55

So you used this because it was the best they had.

0:30:550:30:58

With no cure in sight,

0:31:010:31:04

the silent killer spread.

0:31:040:31:06

Our cities were soon a breeding ground for the pox.

0:31:060:31:10

This is a copy of a caricature from the early 1800s

0:31:120:31:16

showing a typical Portsmouth dockside scene -

0:31:160:31:20

lewd goings-on, sailors rollicking with prostitutes,

0:31:200:31:23

an inebriated woman being carried off.

0:31:230:31:27

And it was these loose women, rather than the sailors,

0:31:270:31:30

that were to be the focus of the Government crackdown.

0:31:300:31:33

As the Government sought ways to control the epidemic,

0:31:350:31:38

a shadowy underworld came under the spotlight.

0:31:380:31:42

I'm with historian Fern Riddell.

0:31:420:31:44

We know that in Portsmouth in this period

0:31:440:31:47

there were about 2,000 prostitutes working.

0:31:470:31:50

There's a real strong link, it seems,

0:31:500:31:52

between sailors and prostitutes, isn't there?

0:31:520:31:55

They'd be somewhere the men could come and stay,

0:31:550:31:57

they'd look after their money, give them a social life.

0:31:570:32:00

And it really was very much a companionable relationship.

0:32:000:32:03

-Because there were no barracks for the sailors, at all, in town?

-No.

0:32:030:32:06

When they arrived off the ships there was nowhere for them to stay?

0:32:060:32:09

None at all. You wanted somewhere you could actually lay your head,

0:32:090:32:13

and some company different from the men that you'd stayed with

0:32:130:32:16

the entire time you were at sea.

0:32:160:32:18

# Get six of me, comrade To carry my coffin...#

0:32:180:32:24

As syphilis spread, popular songs made clear who was held to blame.

0:32:240:32:29

# ..Bad luck to the girl that gived him the pox... #

0:32:290:32:35

"Bad luck to the girl that gived him the pox."

0:32:350:32:39

The sailors blamed the prostitutes for their sickness,

0:32:390:32:42

and the Government did, too.

0:32:420:32:44

In July 1864, Parliament passed the first Contagious Diseases Act -

0:32:470:32:52

this is it here.

0:32:520:32:53

Its purpose? To control prostitution and venereal disease

0:32:530:32:58

in order to increase the efficiency of the Navy.

0:32:580:33:01

The Act introduced draconian new measures

0:33:020:33:05

to control sexually transmitted disease...

0:33:050:33:09

aimed squarely at women.

0:33:090:33:11

Under the Act, any woman who was suspected of being a prostitute

0:33:110:33:15

could be examined - forcibly -

0:33:150:33:17

in the most intimate way.

0:33:170:33:19

While sailors walked free,

0:33:210:33:23

women suspected of having the disease

0:33:230:33:26

were sent to aptly named lock hospitals.

0:33:260:33:29

The shame of the city,

0:33:310:33:33

these prison-like wards have long since disappeared.

0:33:330:33:36

But Fern can paint a picture.

0:33:360:33:39

They were really stark and depressing places to go,

0:33:390:33:43

and each woman was responsible for their own treatment.

0:33:430:33:46

So they'd go from having a horrible, really horrible, internal exam

0:33:460:33:51

when they were proved to have a contagious disease,

0:33:510:33:54

to then treating themselves,

0:33:540:33:56

to then being examined by a doctor

0:33:560:33:58

to see if the treatment was working.

0:33:580:34:00

And that was for their entire time

0:34:000:34:02

that they were incarcerated in the lock hospitals,

0:34:020:34:04

which could be from three to six to even nine months.

0:34:040:34:08

One woman was especially outraged by the law.

0:34:130:34:16

Josephine Butler was a Christian from a middle-class background.

0:34:170:34:21

Heedless of potential embarrassment,

0:34:210:34:24

she attacked the Contagious Diseases Act.

0:34:240:34:27

She toured the country to argue the prostitutes' cause.

0:34:270:34:31

I'm following in Josephine Butler's footsteps.

0:34:310:34:33

Despite the odds stacked against her,

0:34:360:34:38

Josephine set up a campaign group to repeal the Act targeted at women.

0:34:380:34:43

She took to the stage to voice her dissent.

0:34:440:34:46

"Women turn to prostitution out of starvation, hunger.

0:34:480:34:53

"Two pence is the price in England of a young girl's honour."

0:34:530:34:56

What were her main arguments?

0:34:580:35:00

Well, she has three main points.

0:35:000:35:02

So, firstly, she manages to inspire compassion for a class of women

0:35:020:35:06

that most people would have ignored.

0:35:060:35:08

Secondly, she exposes this horrific double standard

0:35:080:35:11

of the fact that you would treat women, but you wouldn't treat men.

0:35:110:35:15

And that, I think, really grabbed a lot of people's attention.

0:35:150:35:18

"We must protest against the purchase

0:35:180:35:22

"of physical health of soldiers,

0:35:220:35:24

"at the cost of introducing so much darkness and immortality."

0:35:240:35:30

This is what really grabs the whole community together -

0:35:300:35:34

the fact that she exposes the Government as really being

0:35:340:35:36

incredibly immoral.

0:35:360:35:38

And they're basically legalising and regulating prostitution,

0:35:380:35:42

which to the Victorians was absolutely unthinkable.

0:35:420:35:46

# Come, my good friends and a story I'll relate

0:35:460:35:50

# I spied a brave comrade all dressed in white flannel

0:35:500:35:54

# Dressed in white flannel and cruel was his fate... #

0:35:540:35:58

It was this final argument that struck home.

0:35:590:36:02

By regulating prostitution,

0:36:020:36:04

the Government appeared to be condoning it.

0:36:040:36:07

A groundswell of popular opinion

0:36:080:36:10

backed Josephine Butler's cause,

0:36:100:36:13

but it took 19 years' hard campaigning

0:36:130:36:17

until Josephine finally received a telegram

0:36:170:36:20

with momentous news.

0:36:200:36:23

It's dated 1886, and simply read,

0:36:230:36:26

"Repeal received royal ascent."

0:36:260:36:28

No longer could a women be forcibly examined

0:36:280:36:31

or locked up in a hospital without her consent.

0:36:310:36:35

# There's a hole in his boots...

0:36:350:36:38

# Bad luck to the girl... #

0:36:380:36:40

In 1905, the real enemy to our cities was identified - not women,

0:36:400:36:45

not the sailors that visited them, but this -

0:36:450:36:50

Treponema pallidum, the spiral-shaped bacterium

0:36:500:36:53

responsible for syphilis.

0:36:530:36:56

But only after the Second World War,

0:36:560:36:58

when penicillin became widely available,

0:36:580:37:01

did the threat to our cities finally subside.

0:37:010:37:06

# I might have been cured

0:37:060:37:08

# By those pills of white mercury

0:37:080:37:10

# Now I'm a young man cut down in my prime... #

0:37:100:37:15

We're exploring the sea and the city.

0:37:290:37:33

A journey that's brought me to the Humber.

0:37:350:37:38

Just 13 miles from the port of Immingham,

0:37:430:37:46

a finger of land reaches into the sea.

0:37:460:37:50

This is Spurn Head.

0:37:520:37:54

At its tip is a control centre...

0:37:570:37:59

..directing cargo ships safely into Immingham's busy port.

0:38:020:38:07

Now, I'm following this flow of traffic,

0:38:170:38:20

and it holds some surprises.

0:38:200:38:23

This is a gateway for global commerce.

0:38:320:38:35

But it isn't only cargo that washes up here -

0:38:350:38:38

these huge ships are also homes.

0:38:380:38:42

Seafarers are forever in transit between destinations,

0:38:470:38:52

so ports like this become temporary cities for the stateless.

0:38:520:38:56

Yesterday, the Greek-owned Elena Ve,

0:38:580:39:01

with its Filipino crew arrived from Russia.

0:39:010:39:04

These globe-trotting ships spend months at sea.

0:39:060:39:09

Far from their own cities,

0:39:100:39:12

what do the crew do when they arrive on our shores?

0:39:120:39:16

I'm meeting Colum Kelly.

0:39:170:39:19

We're going on board the Elena which has come from Russia

0:39:190:39:22

bringing some coal.

0:39:220:39:24

Colum is Immingham's very own chaplain.

0:39:250:39:28

He helps throw an anchor to a restless flow of visitors.

0:39:280:39:32

As the Elena's vast hold gives up its cargo...

0:39:350:39:38

..the crew are getting a break in the mess room.

0:39:390:39:42

-Hi, guys. ALL:

-Hey.

0:39:440:39:46

What's for dinner tonight?

0:39:460:39:47

-Pork. Pork.

-Yes.

0:39:470:39:50

Who's been longest on this ship? Contract?

0:39:500:39:53

-These guys.

-These guys? How many months?

0:39:530:39:56

About nine months. Nine months.

0:39:560:39:58

So you must miss your families dreadfully in that time?

0:39:580:40:00

Yes, that's what we do when we are in port.

0:40:000:40:03

We try to find internet access

0:40:030:40:06

just to have contact with our families.

0:40:060:40:08

Well, tonight's your lucky night

0:40:080:40:10

because I've brought you some internet access -

0:40:100:40:12

and the good news is, it's free!

0:40:120:40:14

-ALL:

-Yay!

0:40:140:40:16

It's not often an internet connection gets a round of applause,

0:40:170:40:20

but this ship and its 20-strong Filipino crew

0:40:200:40:23

have been at sea for weeks.

0:40:230:40:26

Column's Wi-Fi is a long-awaited lifeline home.

0:40:280:40:32

-This is my daughter.

-Your daughter?

0:40:330:40:36

Yes, sir. I miss her so much.

0:40:360:40:38

I bet. How old is she?

0:40:380:40:40

Er, eight years old, sir.

0:40:400:40:41

-Well, you're a very lucky man.

-Thank you, sir.

0:40:410:40:43

Is it difficult for you to stay in touch with your family

0:40:430:40:46

-when you're on the ship?

-Yes, of course, sir.

0:40:460:40:48

The longest voyage I have ever experienced in a vessel is 42 days.

0:40:480:40:52

-42 days on one voyage?

-Yes.

0:40:520:40:55

-Where were you going from?

-From America to China.

0:40:550:40:57

In port, they only get six hours off at a time.

0:41:010:41:05

Even so, the chaplain tries to give them a good taste of Britain.

0:41:050:41:09

You must have had some strange requests over the years?

0:41:120:41:15

There was an Indian crew, and I said,

0:41:150:41:17

"Well, do you want to go to the cinema, to a supermarket,

0:41:170:41:19

"or want to go into the city and do a big shopping?"

0:41:190:41:22

And the captain says,

0:41:220:41:23

"They'd like to be taken somewhere where they could walk on grass."

0:41:230:41:27

Oh. Heartbreaking.

0:41:270:41:29

How simple a request is that?

0:41:290:41:31

With the coal disgorged, this crew is ready to sail again.

0:41:320:41:36

But where in the world,

0:41:390:41:41

they won't know until word comes

0:41:410:41:42

from the owner in Athens.

0:41:420:41:45

For centuries, the coming and going of boats

0:42:030:42:05

has brought opportunities

0:42:050:42:07

for city folk...

0:42:070:42:08

..giving them freedom to travel the world.

0:42:100:42:13

To find a city that's been shaped

0:42:150:42:18

by that spirit of adventure,

0:42:180:42:19

there's nowhere better to look

0:42:190:42:23

than Liverpool.

0:42:230:42:24

This city not only transported goods across the sea,

0:42:320:42:36

but also people.

0:42:360:42:38

The quayside once bustled with liners,

0:42:400:42:42

offering Liverpool's youth a route to adventure.

0:42:420:42:47

Transatlantic trade has long dried up,

0:42:490:42:52

but the sea still inspires the young to run free.

0:42:520:42:56

Today, their routes are just a little bit more imaginative.

0:43:050:43:09

I'm Ryan Doyle, and this is my city - Liverpool.

0:43:130:43:16

Liverpool is just one of the coolest cities -

0:43:210:43:24

every major road runs to the coast.

0:43:240:43:26

It's like a city that's had half of it opened up to the ocean,

0:43:260:43:30

so you don't have that inner-city claustrophobia.

0:43:300:43:34

Free-running is expressing yourself through movement

0:43:380:43:42

so you can set yourself a destination

0:43:420:43:44

and try and get there as creatively as you can.

0:43:440:43:47

It's just exploring what the body's capable of.

0:43:480:43:51

The sea... It's in my blood.

0:43:530:43:54

My father was half Irish, my mother is half Irish.

0:43:540:43:57

I don't know why, just something about the Irish Sea.

0:43:570:44:00

I'm connected to it.

0:44:000:44:01

The Liverpool docks - it's a maze of architecture,

0:44:090:44:12

unexplored architecture, that we need to use to our advantage.

0:44:120:44:16

You know, you don't really get to know an environment

0:44:160:44:19

until you've jumped all over it!

0:44:190:44:21

A lot of these kids like to play Spider-Man

0:44:400:44:42

and play all the PlayStation games,

0:44:420:44:44

but I like to go out and actually physically be Spider-Man.

0:44:440:44:47

The River Mersey flowing right through Liverpool.

0:44:530:44:56

If we want, we can go on a boat and just hit the open seas

0:44:560:45:00

because a lot of free-runners

0:45:000:45:01

are always up for the adventure,

0:45:010:45:03

and there's nothing more that says

0:45:030:45:05

adventure than the open sea.

0:45:050:45:07

We're on a metropolitan maritime journey.

0:45:190:45:22

A story of profit...

0:45:220:45:25

and loss.

0:45:250:45:27

For centuries, the sea has provided for our cities.

0:45:320:45:37

But when the tide turns,

0:45:370:45:39

our greatest ally can become our worst enemy.

0:45:390:45:42

Head down our east coast,

0:45:510:45:53

and chunks of land have been eaten by ferocious waves.

0:45:530:45:58

We've witnessed the devastating impact of the sea

0:46:030:46:06

on small coastal settlements,

0:46:060:46:08

making it clear what catastrophe the water could wreak on our cities.

0:46:080:46:14

They must defend themselves from the sea in London.

0:46:220:46:26

People and property are protected by the Thames Barrier

0:46:360:46:41

and the city's stone embankments.

0:46:410:46:44

But go back 75 years, and there was a storm brewing in Europe.

0:46:470:46:51

Hitler wanted to bring the city to its knees.

0:46:530:46:56

Would the power of the tide be London's Achilles heel?

0:46:560:46:59

Tessa is uncovering a hidden chapter in the story

0:47:030:47:07

of the Second World War.

0:47:070:47:08

I've got with me a top-secret wartime document.

0:47:140:47:17

It says here, "Warning. This publication must not leave

0:47:190:47:22

"the custody of the person to whom it has been supplied,

0:47:220:47:26

"nor may it be taken or sent abroad

0:47:260:47:29

"without the authority of the Hydrographer of the Navy."

0:47:290:47:33

What's in this secret document?

0:47:330:47:36

London's tidal bible.

0:47:360:47:39

The surging tide raises the level of the Thames

0:47:410:47:44

by up to eight metres.

0:47:440:47:46

During the Second World War,

0:47:500:47:52

one man saw this twice daily deluge

0:47:520:47:55

as a threat to Britain itself.

0:47:550:47:58

The document has been written by this person, Peirson Frank,

0:47:590:48:03

and here he is,

0:48:030:48:05

London County Council's chief engineer.

0:48:050:48:07

Frank's fear of the high tide

0:48:090:48:12

sprang from bitter experience.

0:48:120:48:15

In 1928, the Thames had poured into the city,

0:48:150:48:20

a storm overwhelmed the Embankment,

0:48:200:48:22

the Underground flooded,

0:48:220:48:24

people in basement flats drowned.

0:48:240:48:28

Then Peirson Frank had been powerless.

0:48:280:48:31

12 years later, as the Blitz rained down,

0:48:320:48:35

Frank knew that if Hitler had the tidal bible,

0:48:350:48:38

accurately placed bombs

0:48:380:48:40

could demolish London's flood defences at high water,

0:48:400:48:45

unleashing the sea on the city.

0:48:450:48:47

London had nearly drowned by accident,

0:48:530:48:56

could Hitler now drown it by design?

0:48:560:48:59

If so, Peirson Frank knew where the Nazi bombers would strike.

0:49:020:49:06

The Embankment protects the heart of the city from the sea.

0:49:080:49:12

Archaeologist Gustav Milne has pieced together evidence

0:49:140:49:18

of a secret that's been kept for over 70 years.

0:49:180:49:21

This is the scar of a bomb

0:49:230:49:25

that struck here on 16th March 1941,

0:49:250:49:29

and the hole was very rapidly filled.

0:49:290:49:32

What makes you sure this is the site of a bomb?

0:49:320:49:35

Well, we know it's a bomb simply because all the granite facing

0:49:350:49:39

that was there is now spread out

0:49:390:49:41

over a great 18-metre arc,

0:49:410:49:43

right the way round here.

0:49:430:49:45

So, 70 years on, it's still lying on the riverbed?

0:49:450:49:48

Still on the riverbed.

0:49:480:49:49

A co-ordinated bomb attack on several targets at high tide

0:49:510:49:56

could have crippled the city.

0:49:560:49:57

Power and phone lines would be cut,

0:50:010:50:03

the water supply contaminated -

0:50:030:50:06

losing London might have meant losing the war.

0:50:060:50:10

Gustav has found scars from 122 bomb strikes

0:50:110:50:15

to London's flood wall.

0:50:150:50:17

Attacks that worried the Government so much

0:50:200:50:23

they took action to cover them up.

0:50:230:50:25

What I've got in here is the logbook of the snappily named

0:50:270:50:32

Thames Flood Prevention Emergency Repairs Service.

0:50:320:50:37

The team was led by Peirson Frank,

0:50:370:50:39

and it was so secret

0:50:390:50:41

no-one even knew it existed.

0:50:410:50:44

Gustav has spent years researching this covert team of workers.

0:50:470:50:52

If you look at this photograph,

0:50:530:50:55

it shows the team in action.

0:50:550:50:57

What you can see here is this great line of 5,000 sandbags,

0:50:570:51:01

and they are blocking up a gap in the riverside wall.

0:51:010:51:06

And why was this unit such a secret?

0:51:060:51:08

Because they didn't want to alert the Luftwaffe

0:51:080:51:11

to the extreme vulnerability of low-lying London,

0:51:110:51:14

and they didn't want to affect the morale of Londoners,

0:51:140:51:17

who had already been faced with being exploded to death,

0:51:170:51:20

so they didn't want to make them fear drowning, as well.

0:51:200:51:24

People's worst nightmare

0:51:270:51:29

was a flood underground,

0:51:290:51:31

below the Thames in the Tube.

0:51:310:51:34

During airstrikes, stations became makeshift bomb shelters.

0:51:350:51:40

But what if a tunnel was hit

0:51:400:51:42

and the river above poured in?

0:51:420:51:45

The horror was unimaginable,

0:51:460:51:48

but the fear very real.

0:51:480:51:50

How could those helpless underground be protected?

0:51:520:51:56

Thousands of people use this Tube every day,

0:51:570:52:00

but I wonder how many notice the remnants of a metal door.

0:52:000:52:04

When the air-raid siren sounded,

0:52:070:52:10

heavy steel floodgates slid into place...

0:52:100:52:13

..to seal off tunnels running under the Thames.

0:52:150:52:18

This is one of the actual flood-proof doors

0:52:210:52:24

fitted during the Blitz.

0:52:240:52:26

It's now out of use,

0:52:260:52:28

but during the war, every tunnel

0:52:280:52:30

that ran under the Thames had one of these.

0:52:300:52:33

If the tunnel behind was breached,

0:52:350:52:37

the Tube network SHOULD stay safe.

0:52:370:52:40

But at night, in the chaos of war,

0:52:420:52:44

it was hard to tell if bombs were falling in the river.

0:52:440:52:48

If a bomb hit the Thames and flooded one of those tunnels,

0:52:490:52:52

how would they know without literally opening the floodgates?

0:52:520:52:57

Once again, the city's engineers devised a remarkable counter measure.

0:52:570:53:03

Hydrophones.

0:53:040:53:07

Basically, underwater microphones -

0:53:070:53:09

and they were placed on the bed of the Thames,

0:53:090:53:12

close to every one of the Tube tunnels under the water.

0:53:120:53:15

LOUD EXPLOSION

0:53:150:53:18

It was an astonishing scheme.

0:53:210:53:23

Sound waves would detect where the bombs were landing.

0:53:230:53:27

So, how did it work?

0:53:270:53:30

Thames hydrographer John Dillon-Leetch can demonstrate.

0:53:300:53:34

What we have here is two hydrophones,

0:53:340:53:37

and if we take this target

0:53:370:53:39

and we say this might be a bomb during the Second World War

0:53:390:53:42

and we drop it into the water,

0:53:420:53:44

like so, the ripples there would represent sound waves.

0:53:440:53:48

And they would be timed from the time they're received here and here,

0:53:480:53:52

and by looking at the difference between the two times

0:53:520:53:54

we should be able to calculate

0:53:540:53:56

the approximate position of the bomb.

0:53:560:53:59

The wartime hydrophone signals were interpreted by skilled analysts

0:54:000:54:04

at South Kensington Tube station.

0:54:040:54:07

Test recordings show sound waves from a Thames tug boat.

0:54:090:54:13

ENGINE HUM, SPLASHING WATER

0:54:130:54:16

And even the sensitivity to a single rifle shot.

0:54:160:54:20

RIFLE SHOT

0:54:200:54:21

Then, on 9th September 1940,

0:54:240:54:27

the Luftwaffe loomed over London.

0:54:270:54:31

Sirens sounded.

0:54:310:54:33

SIRENS WAIL

0:54:330:54:35

The electronic ears under the Thames were made ready,

0:54:350:54:38

floodgates slammed shut.

0:54:380:54:40

Then analysts received the signal they'd been dreading.

0:54:420:54:46

Beneath the river, a section of the Northern Line had been hit.

0:54:480:54:52

Thanks to the hydrophones the flood gates were kept shut,

0:54:590:55:02

the water contained.

0:55:020:55:04

Families sheltering in the Tube escaped...none the wiser.

0:55:060:55:11

So, what of London's guardian angel, Peirson Frank?

0:55:150:55:20

It turns out his fear of Hitler using the tidal Thames

0:55:200:55:24

to destroy the city was well founded.

0:55:240:55:27

Just not in the way he had imagined.

0:55:290:55:31

Hitler didn't flood London,

0:55:330:55:35

but his air force did turn the tide against us.

0:55:350:55:38

Instead of hitting at high water,

0:55:410:55:43

on the night of 29th December 1940,

0:55:430:55:47

Hitler struck the city with incendiary bombs at low tide.

0:55:470:55:51

Firefighters struggled to get enough water from the Thames

0:55:530:55:57

to extinguish the blazes.

0:55:570:56:00

The city burned.

0:56:000:56:01

It was a tragic night for London,

0:56:030:56:06

but had Hitler turned the sea against the city,

0:56:060:56:09

then the story of the Blitz and even the outcome of the war

0:56:090:56:12

could have been very different.

0:56:120:56:15

We've been exploring the sea and the city.

0:56:320:56:35

An urban coastal landscape

0:56:380:56:40

continually transforming with the times.

0:56:400:56:43

Old city trade routes welcome

0:56:460:56:49

a flow of new ideas.

0:56:490:56:51

And in the mega port of Immingham,

0:56:520:56:54

a new opportunity awaits.

0:56:540:56:57

For 100 years, coal has been the kingpin of Immingham,

0:56:580:57:01

but this port is building its future on a new fuel.

0:57:010:57:05

Wow, this is absolutely enormous!

0:57:110:57:15

This soaring tower is being built to store a new generation of energy.

0:57:170:57:22

This is biomass - mainly wood pulp from sustainable forests.

0:57:220:57:28

Such biomass may provide up to a tenth of our electricity -

0:57:290:57:34

the pellets stored in these huge silos.

0:57:340:57:37

Our small isle would struggle to grow enough trees,

0:57:400:57:44

so we rely on the sea for imports.

0:57:440:57:48

Biomass could cement an exciting future for this port,

0:57:490:57:53

harnessing the coast

0:57:530:57:55

to the changing needs of our country.

0:57:550:57:58

Life around our shores continues to transform...

0:58:050:58:09

..but the precious links between sea and city endure.

0:58:100:58:14

For thousands of years, we've built settlements

0:58:210:58:23

along the edge of the sea -

0:58:230:58:25

the great provider,

0:58:250:58:27

the global highway.

0:58:270:58:29

Now, as ever before,

0:58:290:58:30

the coast lies at the centre of our national life.

0:58:300:58:34

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