Thetford Forest Country Tracks


Thetford Forest

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Today, I am on a journey through the heart of East Anglia.

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Below me these vast swathes of fertile land have seen a huge amount

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of change over the centuries.

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From the green roots of agriculture, to the sport of kings.

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My journey begins high in the sky above Tibenham airfield.

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I'll travel along an ancient Roman road before ascending

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into the trees of Thetford Forest.

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I'll stop at Lynford, visit the strange landscape of Grime's Graves

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before racing on to my final destination,

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the famous turf at Newmarket.

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Along the way, I'll be looking back at the very best

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of the BBC's rural programmes from this part of the country.

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This is Country Tracks.

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I can't explain just how magical it is

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to be soaring thousands of feet above the patchwork of fields below.

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It really is the most awesome way to see this county.

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Known as the bread basket of England, East Anglia grows a quarter of the country's wheat,

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a third of its potatoes and over half its sugar beet crop.

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Little wonder that it has the largest agricultural workforce in the country.

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Now that's Thetford Forest just below me.

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A little later in the programme, I'll be exploring the canopy a little closer to the ground.

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Straddling the counties of Suffolk and Norfolk,

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Thetford Forest is the largest lowland pine forest in Britain.

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Below me is a working landscape.

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It's provided an income for British people for hundreds, if not thousands, of years.

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But in recent times, less and less Brits have been inclined

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to follow the seasonal work as Tom Heap found out back in 2004.

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I've been pressed into service on this asparagus grading line.

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I'm trying to get the right thickness into the right crate,

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so thinner ones in there, thicker ones in that one there.

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Everybody in this room is from overseas, mostly Bulgaria and Poland, and this is just

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one production line on one farm, of one kind of vegetable.

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What's happening here in the summer is repeated across Britain.

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But with 1.5 million people unemployed within this country,

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why aren't hardly any of them doing this work?

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Roger Burrows finds workers for this packing plant in Norfolk.

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Ten years ago, the whole workforce was British. Today, that figure has radically changed.

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Two-thirds of the men and women on the factory floor are foreign, just one third British.

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It's clean work, it's not horrendously cold,

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is not horrendously wet, it's not horrendously dirty.

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The pay is good. But for some reason the traditional British worker

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is more interested in moving into the city and other types of work.

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How important is it that we continue this flow, that you continue the supply of foreign workers?

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It's vital to this type of industry. There's no question about that.

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The production line wouldn't keep rolling

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without the influx of foreign workers as we have at the moment.

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Without talking to all Britain's unemployed, it's hard to be sure why seasonal jobs are so unappealing.

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Such unpredictable employment doesn't sit easily with the bureaucracy and box-ticking of the benefits system.

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Because it's short-term work,

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you may have difficulties when the job finishes.

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Then you've got to reclaim all your benefits again,

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which means filling in the forms,

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and quite often there's a long wait before you get the benefit through.

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Particularly housing benefit can be a real problem where you end up...

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We've had people who've almost lost their home because of delay

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paying housing benefit after they've done some temporary work.

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This asparagus farm employs nearly 30 students from Eastern Europe.

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The farmer gives them at least the minimum farming wage of £4.85 an hour.

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I'm in this to earn a living out of it.

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Therefore, it's not cheap labour. We have minimum standards,

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or minimum wages that we have to adhere to.

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Just like any other vegetable that we bring into this country,

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it's a world market. They're bringing it in from nine countries,

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just during our English season.

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It's coming from South America, Peru, Chile, also from Spain,

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where their labour costs are considerably lower than our own.

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Labour's a big input into the production of this crop?

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Probably 75-80% of the cost of production of asparagus.

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Therefore, it has a big influence on what we do.

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Farms like this need a lot of work but only at a very few weeks of the year, the high season.

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So you bring in homes, but you make them temporary, there's no point building permanent structures.

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These container homes come off the back of a truck, and they contain dormitories.

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There's toilet and washing facilities

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and in other ones, television, lounges and things like that.

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The students pay £25 a week for accommodation.

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They earn ten times more than they would for the same work back home.

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-How many of you live in here?

-Four girls.

-Four girls live here.

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How do you find working generally here? OK?

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It's not so hard. It's hard when you're on the field,

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but we rest in the pack house, we listen usually music.

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-All the time we are enjoying.

-You are from university in Bulgaria?

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Yes, I am studying at university, macro economics.

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-Macro economics?

-Yes.

-Golly!

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What do you hope to do when you've earned the money from this job?

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I will continue my education. I need this money for my education.

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Legal migrant workers on schemes such as Daisy's are lucky.

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When 20 Chinese cockle pickers drowned in Morecambe Bay in February,

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it highlighted the plight of illegal migrant workers.

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But even those here legally can be exploited.

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Lukie Gooda is a Portuguese liaison officer.

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Every name here is a person with a problem.

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Most stem from ignorance and fear.

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It started with the transport provided for them.

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Then the amount of work. Most of these people work 12-hour shifts.

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The health problems, due to health and safety conditions that are not met by the employers.

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They have to work under conditions that people in this country would not accept.

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Most of them when they come over here already have debts back home, you know,

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that they need to send money to deal with.

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The moment they are here and they don't speak the language,

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the employer, whatever the employer says, goes. They trapped.

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They really trapped. That provokes all kind of exploitation, really.

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For the public, the word illegal has become attached to the word migrant labour.

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-What do you think about that?

-It's very sad because the majority of it is perfectly above board.

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It's very legal. They all have work permits.

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They're all working to the minimum wage requirements.

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It's sad to see the industry run down by, you know, the few.

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As shoppers, we demand fresh produce at the lowest price.

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Because such a large percentage of the cost of producing fruit and veg

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is made up by labour, there's no real escaping from the fact that workforce will have to get a pretty low wage.

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Too low it would seem to attract British workers to dig carrots or cut asparagus.

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So foreign migrant labour is going to be part of the horticultural scene for years to come.

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The Government is backing a change in the law so the companies which

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provide migrant labour, gang masters, will have to be registered.

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But it will need enforcement muscle and political will to be sure illegal working is stamped out.

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The good news is that since that report was made, the Government has set up

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the Gangmasters Licensing Authority, making it a criminal offence to supply labour without a licence.

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It remains to be seen if the changing global economy

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will bring British workers back to the fields.

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That was brilliant.

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-OK?

-Thank you very much.

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-I loved that.

-You're welcome.

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Wow! I'm almost lost for words, that was incredible.

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What a fantastic way to see the landscape below, and a perfect way to begin my journey.

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With my feet firmly back on the ground,

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I've headed 17 miles north-east to Knettishall

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where I'm joining the ancient Roman road known as the Peddar's Way.

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Peddar's Way was built by the Romans around 61 AD

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to provide a route across East Anglia for policing purposes.

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Typically, it was built in a very straight line using local materials

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to provide a link between the Roman garrison town in Colchester

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and the heartland of Queen Boudicca's tribe, the Iceni.

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As you walk the Peddar's Way, it's tempting to conjure images

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of all the others who've trodden the same ground - Stone Age hunters,

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Roman soldiers, Saxon settlers, or medieval pilgrims.

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Walking in your time, you really do feel part of history.

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Inspired by the Australian Aboriginal belief

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that each ancient trail is part of a vast, epic musical score,

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the verses of which tell the tale of how that landscape and its landmarks came into being,

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storyteller Hugh Lupton collaborated with a group of local artists to create a Norfolk song line.

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Taking inspiration from land, they used story, poetry, image and

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song to evoke the landscape history and geology of the Peddar's Way.

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# The winding welter of tracks Pulls towards

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# As a bow stri-i-ing

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# Straight as a rod of iron... #

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It's incredible to think the Romans would have used this route.

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To listen to this music is incredibly evocative.

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# ..The sole of a boot to the taken land

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# The sole of a boot to the taken land... #

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In the words of one of the artists, "All the past that has led to your moment in time

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"is held like a great secret in the landscape that surrounds you."

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As I saw from the air, the land in this area has been put to many different uses over the centuries.

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Crops have been grown here but there's another type of farming that rather less is known about.

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Adam Henson came to find out how rabbits were harvested for their fur and for their meat.

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Rabbits were brought into the country by the Romans,

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but it was the Normans who first introduced the idea of farming them.

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By the 16th century, bunnies were big business -

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both the fur and meat was in demand, and even worth fighting for.

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This is quite a structure, isn't it, like a mini fortress?

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It is, yes. It's like a miniature castle keep, really.

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The reason for it being here, and built like this,

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was it was the home of a rabbit warrener

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from about the 1340s onwards, we think here.

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Where would the rabbits have been kept?

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The rabbits were roaming free all over the warren,

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and they were guarded, nurtured and trapped by the warrener.

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The warrener was one of the highest paid of all the manorial officials

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in the Middle Ages, and he needed to be able to regulate the number

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of bucks to does, to look at the economies of the market,

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when was the best time to sell the rabbits.

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He even needed to do things, certainly when the warrens were first established in Breckland,

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like digging burrows for the rabbits to shelter in.

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Because rabbits come from the Mediterranean, they're native there,

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they don't need shelter in such a better climate, really.

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Better management meant rabbit numbers increased. By the...1840s,

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we are talking about an annual cull on this warren alone of 28,000 rabbits.

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It's because they were so valuable they had to build these fortresses?

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Yes. Because of a rise in demand for the rabbits, poaching was really big business.

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We know, for instance, of armed gangs attacking the warrens,

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killing their lurcher dogs, which the warreners used to help them track the rabbits.

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So, defence was a matter of great importance to them, really.

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For another 500 years, rabbits played a pivotal role in local history.

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Their meat was part of the staple diet,

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and rabbit fur was also at the height of fashion.

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By the 20th century, three fur factories opened up in the area.

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One of the workers, 86-year-old Harold Glaister, remembers a time when rabbits

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were an important source of income for those living near the forest.

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There were hundreds of rabbits about everywhere you went.

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On the road you'd see them, on the warrens at the side of the road...

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Even the milkman came around with two or three rabbits on his cart

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and says, "Do you want to buy a rabbit?"

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What was your job in the fur factory?

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Well, I was a machinist, you could say.

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There were others with me, there were two or three departments there.

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When the rabbit skins arrived, they were what they call wet ones.

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When they were dry, they then used to go into the openers.

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They handled them then and cut all the waste bits off

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and opened the skin right out.

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Then they went to their cardners who cleaned the skin up,

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and then the cutting shop to take the fur off the skin.

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So do you enjoy a rabbit now?

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I wouldn't like one now, that's funny, isn't it?

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By the 1970s, all factories had been closed down as rabbits had almost disappeared from the forest.

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The rabbits we'd once wanted were now taking over the countryside and we wanted them out.

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Myxomatosis was deliberately introduced and spread through Thetford's rabbit population,

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killing 99% of them in just two years.

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The disease was far more effective at killing rabbits

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than anyone had expected, and with a loss of the rabbit population came the loss of a whole industry.

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Today the disease has been controlled and the rabbit population has bounced right back.

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So much so, they're an official pest, causing vast amounts of damage to young trees and other crops.

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Controlling rabbit numbers is a constant struggle for Trevor Banham and his team of rangers.

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How many rabbits are you having to get rid of in a year?

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Currently around 10,000 a year, in the forest

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which is nothing compared to the old days when the forest

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was being established in the '20s when 100,000 plus a year would be killed.

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Where do the rabbits go once you've caught them?

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All these rabbits here will go off to the game dealer and they go into the food chain.

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The rangers themselves may feed their dogs or ferrets on them.

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How do the guys work this, then?

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What you've got is Dudley and Paul here, they're working the ferret

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to hopefully bolt the rabbits out so they can get shot.

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They have just put the ferret in there.

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Now you just wait for the rabbit to bolt?

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Hopefully, yes. The ferret's got a collar around his neck.

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This collar has a transmitter in it and Dudley or Paul will have the receiver

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in his pocket and they'll have to draw that out and find out where the ferret is laying up underground.

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Some people would think it was cruel to kill rabbits.

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In some areas, we need rabbits. They can be a useful tool.

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For somewhere like heathlands, we need them grazed, in conjunction with sheep, we get that happening.

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But what else can we do? Rabbits are rabbits, and as we know they breed like rabbits!

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We have to control numbers.

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It's all part of the management of the forest, the habitat, the environment.

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It's all part of a bigger picture.

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Lucky for the rabbits, an unproductive day for the ferret and wardens,

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and proof that controlling their numbers seems to be working.

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Thetford's rabbits may have fallen from grace over the last few years,

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but with careful management it's hoped that their future here is a more harmonious one.

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I've left Peddar's Way behind me and followed Adam deep into the shady heart of Thetford Forest.

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It may seem hard to believe, but this magnificent forest was actually

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created after World War One to provide a strategic reserve

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of timber as most of the oaks and slow-growing trees in this country had been lost to the war effort.

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Its creation destroyed much of the typical Breckland environment of gorse and sandy ridges.

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But, of course, that environment was itself man-made, since the area

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had been stripped by activities like flint mining and rabbit grazing.

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Today, the forest feels and looks completely established.

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There's something incredibly peaceful and quiet about walking in the forest enveloped in the trees.

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But that tranquillity is about to be shattered

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because I'm taking to the canopy and a high-wire, I'm going ape.

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The origins of Go Ape lie in France.

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Back in 2001, Triss and Becks Mayhew were on holiday in the Auvergne.

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They came across a French family swinging through the trees.

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From the looks on their faces, it was clear both the kids

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and their parents were having the time of their lives.

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Eight years later, they've built one of the fastest growing companies in the country.

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Right, I'm harnessed up, let's find out what this is all about.

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-Simon.

-Nice to meet you.

-I'm Ben.

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-How are you?

-Very well.

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-What's going to happen today, what's Go Ape about?

-We're about to have a couple of hours of fun.

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It's effectively an assault course

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which is up to about 40 feet up in the air.

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What I love is already the forest is reverberating to the sound of laughter. That's a good sign.

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What's the first plan of action?

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The first step, we've checked you're in the equipment safely and now we have to run through the safety brief.

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Attached to the front of your harness there are two yellow and blue safety lines.

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Around about belly-button height we have a metal ring,

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-and you also have a pulley attached to your harness.

-Yep.

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Around every tree on the course, there is a red safety halo

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into which you must clip your carabiniers one at a time.

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When I clip them in, I clip one in one direction and the second one

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in the opposite direction, making sure they're both closed. Release the pulley from the harness,

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pop it over the top of the cable, from the halo around the tree,

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place that straight through both the holes in the bottom of the pulley, long safety on.

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Clip that onto the cable directly behind the pulley,

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it always goes behind it, and notice how the carabiniers are opposite.

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So, Simon, what would you hope the visitors here get out of an experience like this?

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It's really just to get them back out in the countryside and really,

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as our company ethos says, to live life a bit more adventurously.

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Does it have a negative impact on the environment?

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The local bird population seems to be fluctuating well, and as they're a top end indicator

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of what's happening here, they seem to be showing us

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that what we're doing here is, if anything, having a beneficial effect.

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Fantastic. This is where we're going to start. Am I all set, then?

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We've completed your training, Ben. Now it's up to you.

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-Go have some fun.

-I can't wait!

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Let's see if I can remember everything. This clips onto here.

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-Ta-da.

-Perfect.

-OK.

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Right. Wish me luck!

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Really excited about this.

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Right, now this is called the Tarzan Swing.

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To be honest, it looks quite scary.

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Anyway, here we go. We're all on.

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Woo-hoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!

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Oh, I missed it!

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Ha, ha, ha! Woo-hoo!

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I LOVE this!

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Woo! You don't have to take the high wire to enjoy the Thetford forest.

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THEY CHEER

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Using the forest as a playground brings many pleasures, not all of them planned.

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Under cover of night, things are even less predictable.

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I'm really excited

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because I've been invited to the equinox star party.

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I'm nearly there.

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Ta-da!

0:21:370:21:38

Put that light out! >

0:21:380:21:40

I should have realised, not those sort of stars.

0:21:400:21:43

Forget glamour and celebrities, think tents and anoraks.

0:21:430:21:46

This is the only convention for British amateur astronomers.

0:21:460:21:50

200 people are camping here in Thetford Forest in Norfolk to look at stars, and planets, and galaxies.

0:21:500:21:56

It's a field where size and technology matter.

0:21:560:21:59

This is one that I've had for a couple of years now.

0:21:590:22:02

So what can you see through that, then? Everything?

0:22:020:22:05

Oh, yes. This is what you would call a computer-controlled telescope.

0:22:050:22:10

What you would do is...

0:22:100:22:12

..you'd punch in the coordinates of an object that you want to look at

0:22:130:22:17

and the telescope's computer will automatically slew the telescope to the object.

0:22:170:22:21

Which may take some of the skill out of it,

0:22:210:22:24

but does mean that we can see views once reserved for scientists, like the sun.

0:22:240:22:28

You need special filters to see the sun through a telescope - without them, it would blind you.

0:22:280:22:33

Here at the sky party, there are plenty of experts to help the uninitiated.

0:22:330:22:37

Konrad, what can I expect to see at this time of year?

0:22:370:22:41

Now that we're approaching autumn,

0:22:410:22:43

you'll find that Orion would be rising.

0:22:430:22:46

Not too far from the constellation Orion

0:22:460:22:48

is the constellation of Taurus.

0:22:480:22:50

And in Taurus the Bull, you'll find a nebula called the Crab Nebula,

0:22:500:22:55

which is the result of a supernova explosion about 900 years ago.

0:22:550:22:59

Now, since then, it's been discovered that the centre of the supernova explosion

0:22:590:23:05

is a rotating, hyper-dense object called the neutron star,

0:23:050:23:09

a model of which I'm presently holding in my hand.

0:23:090:23:12

And it goes extremely fast.

0:23:120:23:14

This particular model isn't actually the Crab Nebula pulsar,

0:23:140:23:17

but it does go around like this and if you happened to be standing

0:23:170:23:22

so that the torch sweeps in your direction,

0:23:220:23:24

you will see the lights and see flashes once every 30 seconds.

0:23:240:23:30

Right, that's clear, then.

0:23:300:23:33

At least there's a chance of seeing a pulsar,

0:23:330:23:35

whereas astronomers have to leave the country

0:23:350:23:38

to get photographs as stunning as this.

0:23:380:23:40

The skies in Britain are awful.

0:23:400:23:42

We suffer from something called light pollution.

0:23:420:23:45

This is stray lights blocking out the beauties of the night sky.

0:23:450:23:48

We go abroad to do away with that problem.

0:23:480:23:51

We go to a protected site in the Canary Islands, on top of a mountain

0:23:510:23:55

where the sky is arguably the best in the world.

0:23:550:23:57

You take these fantastic pictures. We're standing in the middle of nowhere,

0:23:570:24:01

surely there's no light pollution here?

0:24:010:24:03

There's light pollution in virtually every site in the UK.

0:24:030:24:06

No matter how far you travel in the UK, you'll find some form of light pollution,

0:24:060:24:10

and it's getting worse all the time. It's a growing problem.

0:24:100:24:14

Caused by us. So this event is open to the public to give astronomers the chance to explain

0:24:140:24:20

and, of course, to show off their equipment in the hope that more of us

0:24:200:24:23

will be inspired to spend sleepless nights gazing into the sky.

0:24:230:24:28

I'm enjoying just seeing all the telescopes

0:24:280:24:30

and being able to use them, because I hope that they're going to

0:24:300:24:34

let me come round this evening and use them.

0:24:340:24:36

You need to see the stars at night to appreciate

0:24:360:24:39

what it really is, and how far away they are.

0:24:390:24:41

It's amazing, it blows your mind. Phenomenal, really.

0:24:410:24:45

It really is, yeah.

0:24:450:24:47

And that's before the bar opened.

0:24:470:24:49

As for the astronomers...

0:24:490:24:51

I always come here and go home full of ideas,

0:24:510:24:53

so plenty of ideas to build a new telescope for next year.

0:24:530:24:56

We came along really to meet other astronomers,

0:24:560:24:59

to see the equipment and generally just to meet other people, really.

0:24:590:25:04

-And drink?

-And drink, yes! We had a few!

0:25:040:25:07

As darkness falls, the stargazers prepare for a long night.

0:25:080:25:12

Warm food and thermal undies at the ready. All we need is a clear sky.

0:25:120:25:18

It's night, and it's cold, and there are a lot of telescopes set up,

0:25:180:25:22

but everybody's gone to the bar.

0:25:220:25:24

That's because it's really cloudy and you can't see a thing.

0:25:240:25:27

About two or three years ago, I discovered a new minor planet, an asteroid,

0:25:290:25:34

a lump of rock going round between Mars and Jupiter.

0:25:340:25:38

So I went out one night and found it.

0:25:380:25:40

It's a bit of real estate, it's only 30 miles across,

0:25:400:25:43

but there's a bit of real estate that's mine.

0:25:430:25:45

Take you a long time to visit it,

0:25:450:25:46

-wouldn't it?

-Yeah, take a fair amount of time to do that!

0:25:460:25:49

How long would it take to get there?

0:25:490:25:51

It's something like about 270 million miles away.

0:25:510:25:55

So have any of you seen a UFO?

0:25:550:25:56

There was one occasion when it was about 4am,

0:25:560:25:59

I was probably a bit tired

0:25:590:26:00

and I saw a little green dot appear and disappear.

0:26:000:26:03

I was really confused for several days

0:26:030:26:06

as to what that could have been. It was a meteorite.

0:26:060:26:08

One night I was out in the garden and I could see all these things

0:26:080:26:13

moving round in the sky. I thought, "What the hell are they?"

0:26:130:26:17

What it was, it was a flock of pigeons

0:26:170:26:20

that the lights from the high street where shining up

0:26:200:26:23

and catching underneath their wings as they were going round.

0:26:230:26:28

I was looking up, "What the hell is that?"

0:26:280:26:33

The sky cleared, the bar cleared, the stars came out.

0:26:390:26:42

As did the men. This is a bit of a boys' night out.

0:26:440:26:48

Maybe women simply appreciate the view without the gizmos.

0:26:480:26:52

Low-tech...

0:26:540:26:56

Hi-tech...

0:26:560:26:58

even computer imaging, it's all here.

0:26:580:27:01

This is one advantage, the poor visual observers can't see Saturn at all,

0:27:010:27:05

and yet look how clear it is on a computer screen.

0:27:050:27:08

But in a way, though, because this is computerised,

0:27:080:27:11

it doesn't seem real. Whereas if you look up and can see something, then it...

0:27:110:27:15

-Do you see what I mean? Or am I being a purist?

-You are being a purist!

0:27:150:27:19

THEY LAUGH

0:27:190:27:21

You need to be elsewhere and amongst others!

0:27:210:27:23

THEY LAUGH

0:27:230:27:24

After a starry night comes dawn, and the rain.

0:27:340:27:38

Close to Thetford Forest is Lynford arboretum, and I'm starting the day here listening to birdsong.

0:27:450:27:52

It seems that rain really is a big part of this area.

0:27:570:28:01

I've been to rainforests before, but never in the UK.

0:28:010:28:05

Now, a feature of spring and summer is the dawn chorus,

0:28:050:28:09

something that very few of us get to experience intentionally.

0:28:090:28:14

But I set the alarm early, it's 4.30am and I'm off to listen

0:28:140:28:18

to one of these musical wonders of the natural world.

0:28:180:28:21

I'm armed with a special parabolic microphone

0:28:270:28:30

that can pick out individual birdsong over great distances.

0:28:300:28:35

Luckily, I'm also armed with a forest ecologist who can explain exactly what I'm hearing.

0:28:350:28:40

First of all, what is the dawn chorus? Why are the birds so active at this early time in the morning?

0:28:400:28:45

Birds are up and they're wanting

0:28:450:28:47

to basically drive a stake into the ground and say, "This is mine,

0:28:470:28:51

"I'm here, this is my territory, keep out"

0:28:510:28:53

to all of the other birds of the same species.

0:28:530:28:56

So is it a case of the noisiest bird wins, or the most musical?

0:28:560:29:00

It's a combination of both. Studies have shown

0:29:000:29:05

that it's birds with both the brightest and loudest song,

0:29:050:29:11

but also, other species, it's the ones with the most clever song,

0:29:110:29:15

the most complex and involved and intricate song.

0:29:150:29:18

I can hear, somewhere along here, it sounds like it's in that tree.

0:29:270:29:32

Yeah, the sedge warbler, he's definitely chirping away quite loudly in this willow just here.

0:29:320:29:38

In this low bit of scrub on the edge of the meadow.

0:29:380:29:41

He's got a very complex series of calls, different phrases,

0:29:410:29:46

from those scratchy noises right through

0:29:460:29:50

to trilling and fluty warbling sort of sounds.

0:29:500:29:56

-Is it true that birds can have regional accents?

-Yes, yes, they do.

0:29:560:30:00

They gradually become more complicated, the sounds,

0:30:000:30:04

and regionally become different, more varied.

0:30:040:30:07

Some experts can tell which part of the country they're in

0:30:070:30:10

by just listening to the range of sounds that certain species make.

0:30:100:30:14

We've got something in this tree over here. Can you tell what that is?

0:30:200:30:25

Yes, he's a male chaffinch, probably our most common finch,

0:30:250:30:30

he'll turn up in anybody's garden or in the park.

0:30:300:30:35

He gives a very short trill and then a series of descending little sounds.

0:30:350:30:41

It's a very compact and quite a short call, it's not complex.

0:30:410:30:45

That's, I think, him at the top there. You can't really distinguish the colours in this light.

0:30:450:30:50

No, but if you saw him on a nice sunny day,

0:30:500:30:54

you'd see he has a nice, warm, peachy breast and a nice blue cap and a green rump.

0:30:540:31:02

Quite a handsome bird.

0:31:020:31:03

Well, we are in England after all.

0:31:120:31:14

I'm soaked through, but I've had a magical morning.

0:31:140:31:18

While I dry off from this very British weather,

0:31:180:31:21

it's intriguing to think that one of Thetford's most famous residents

0:31:210:31:25

would have been used to a very different climate.

0:31:250:31:28

Duleep Singh was the last Maharajah of the Punjab.

0:31:280:31:32

This fine statue of him stands by the river in Thetford, but how did he get here?

0:31:380:31:44

He became Maharajah at the age of five,

0:31:440:31:47

but the defeat of the Sikh Army by the British during the 1840s meant that he lost his kingdom.

0:31:470:31:54

The Maharajah was offered a deal by the British -

0:31:540:31:57

"Give up everything in the Punjab, live in exile in England,

0:31:570:32:00

"and we'll give you a hefty pension.

0:32:000:32:03

"Reject that, and you can live in poverty in the Punjab under British rule."

0:32:030:32:08

He didn't have much of a choice, did he?

0:32:080:32:10

He handed everything over, including the famous Koh-I-Noor diamond.

0:32:100:32:14

This isn't the real one,

0:32:140:32:16

this is a replica in the Ancient House Museum in Thetford,

0:32:160:32:19

which was set up by one of his sons.

0:32:190:32:21

The real diamond is part of the Crown Jewels.

0:32:210:32:24

Duleep Singh was the first Sikh to live in England.

0:32:250:32:29

He brought an estate at Elveden near Thetford and became a favourite of Queen Victoria.

0:32:290:32:34

He converted to Christianity and enjoyed the privileged life of an English country gent.

0:32:340:32:40

There's no doubt that he took to East Anglia, he took to Thetford.

0:32:400:32:43

After all, his roots lay in the countryside.

0:32:430:32:47

The Punjab, which was his kingdom,

0:32:470:32:49

is an agrarian community.

0:32:490:32:50

He hosted many royal shooting parties here,

0:32:500:32:53

he still holds a record for the greatest number of grouse shot in one day.

0:32:530:32:58

It seems that he fitted in very well into a rigid Victorian society.

0:32:580:33:03

He was affectionately known as the Black Prince, and although he was a bit of an enigma,

0:33:030:33:08

the fact that he was Christian,

0:33:080:33:10

the fact he was a philanthropist, a benefactor, meant that he had a very good reputation.

0:33:100:33:15

Was he ever allowed back to the Punjab?

0:33:150:33:17

He was never allowed to go back to his own kingdom, Punjab.

0:33:170:33:20

So he did try to go back?

0:33:200:33:22

He tried, and towards the end of his life,

0:33:220:33:24

we see him leading agitations against the government to say,

0:33:240:33:28

"Look, can I be restored to my kingdom?

0:33:280:33:31

"Can the promises made to me as part of the treaty be kept?"

0:33:310:33:35

Unfortunately, they were all broken.

0:33:350:33:37

His allowance was reduced, he was deprived of all of his assets.

0:33:370:33:41

But he remains a very potent figure for the Sikhs.

0:33:410:33:45

He was our last ruler, so whilst he doesn't have any spiritual significance,

0:33:450:33:50

as a cultural and historical figure he's unmatched.

0:33:500:33:53

At the end of his life,

0:33:550:33:57

Duleep Singh was living in Paris, his health broken, virtually penniless.

0:33:570:34:02

He died in 1893 at the age of 55 and his body was brought back to England

0:34:020:34:08

to be buried here in the churchyard at Elveden.

0:34:080:34:12

The final resting place of the last Maharajah of the Punjab.

0:34:120:34:16

I'm on a journey in the heart of East Anglia.

0:34:220:34:24

I began in Tibenham and travelled to Knettishall.

0:34:240:34:28

I then went into the canopy of the Thetford forest.

0:34:280:34:31

Now I've travelled to a place called Grime's Graves.

0:34:310:34:35

This grassy, lunar landscape is actually evidence of an ancient industrial site,

0:34:380:34:44

consisting of over 400 shafts, pits, quarries and spoil dumps.

0:34:440:34:49

Set in the distinctive Beckland Heath landscape, Grime's Graves

0:34:490:34:52

is the only Neolithic flint mine open to visitors in Britain.

0:34:520:34:56

The area was once known as Grimm's Graves, or The Devil's Holes.

0:34:580:35:03

It wasn't until one was excavated in 1870 that they discovered

0:35:030:35:07

they dated back more than 5,000 years, to late Neolithic times.

0:35:070:35:13

What the prehistoric miners were looking for was the fine-quality, jet-black flint floor stone,

0:35:170:35:23

which occurs some nine metres below surface level.

0:35:230:35:26

Digging with red deer antler picks, they sank shafts

0:35:260:35:30

from which radiated gallery tunnels, following the seams.

0:35:300:35:34

John Lord, a master flintknapper, is going to show me how this prized stone was worked.

0:35:340:35:39

So, there are different types of flint, obviously?

0:35:430:35:46

It differs in where it is in the chalk strata.

0:35:460:35:50

You get the upper flints,

0:35:500:35:51

they're usually rather small, irregular nodules

0:35:510:35:55

and not much use for a great deal.

0:35:550:35:57

A bit further down, you get larger, very regular-shaped nodules and then, lower than that,

0:35:570:36:03

you get lenticular boulders, sometimes metres across, as you find here in parts of Grime's Graves.

0:36:030:36:10

So, how would they have then started working a piece of flint like this?

0:36:100:36:15

They pick an area that's got either a natural fracture or a concavity,

0:36:150:36:22

and they'd start working it into a rough out, depending on what they were making.

0:36:220:36:28

If you want me to show you this, do you want to pop a pair of these on?

0:36:280:36:32

Eye protection. I'm sure they didn't have these,

0:36:320:36:35

but I'm sure they had this weather,

0:36:350:36:37

and they would have been out whatever.

0:36:370:36:39

-Wow. Oh, look at that!

-Beautiful stuff.

0:36:410:36:43

It's amazing how easily it shatters.

0:36:430:36:46

Does that mean that it's not very strong?

0:36:460:36:49

It's incredibly strong.

0:36:490:36:51

The surface of the flint is harder than steel.

0:36:510:36:55

Any cutting edge that you produce will last a lot longer than steel.

0:36:550:36:59

And in late Neolithic and Early Bronze Age times, what would they have made out of flint?

0:36:590:37:05

What would they have used it for?

0:37:050:37:07

Axes, knives, scrapers, really general tools.

0:37:070:37:11

Can I have a go at breaking it?

0:37:110:37:14

-Whack it with the round edge, about there.

-About there.

0:37:140:37:20

Not much good in wetting the spot, because it's already wet!

0:37:200:37:23

-So, quite hard?

-Positive.

0:37:230:37:26

Good shot.

0:37:260:37:28

Yeah? That's amazing. It shatters like glass.

0:37:280:37:32

If you warmed it up, it's got the components, it would turn to glass.

0:37:320:37:36

So, how did you learn how to do this?

0:37:360:37:39

I'm still learning, really.

0:37:400:37:42

I've been doing it for 35 years, but I think I started really learning this when I worked here.

0:37:420:37:49

There were so many people interested in the site,

0:37:490:37:53

and exactly what went on. I was answering questions, or trying to answer questions.

0:37:530:37:59

I thought, I'd better find out how it's done before I start telling anybody.

0:37:590:38:04

Can you see that taper now?

0:38:040:38:06

-Yes, exactly.

-Just gradual.

0:38:060:38:09

It's going to go into a haft, and the wedge shape will hold it there.

0:38:090:38:13

So, the wooden handle effectively?

0:38:130:38:16

-So, we've now got the workings of a Neolithic axe?

-Yeah.

0:38:160:38:20

Do you think you could fell some trees with that?

0:38:200:38:23

This will penetrate and cut timber down. If you can haft it comfortably, certainly.

0:38:230:38:28

That was absolutely fascinating, thank you very much.

0:38:280:38:31

And in the rain!

0:38:310:38:32

THEY LAUGH

0:38:320:38:34

I've left Grime's Graves behind, and I'm heading further south,

0:38:420:38:46

to the town of Newmarket, and its world-famous racetrack.

0:38:460:38:50

This is the home of one of Britain's top racehorse trainers,

0:39:040:39:08

and I've been given exclusive access to follow the day in the life of a thoroughbred.

0:39:080:39:12

And what's more, today is no ordinary day - it's race day.

0:39:120:39:16

-Good morning.

-Hello.

-You must be Linda.

-Yes.

0:39:220:39:25

Hi, Linda, I'm Ben. Nice to meet you. Who's this very handsome boy?

0:39:250:39:28

-This is Marosh.

-He's beautiful.

0:39:280:39:32

He is, very. He's very nice.

0:39:320:39:33

So, early in the morning, this is his big race day. Do you know what time he's actually racing?

0:39:330:39:38

He's running at 5.45.

0:39:380:39:39

So, he's got the whole day ahead of him.

0:39:390:39:41

So, what's the first thing this morning?

0:39:410:39:43

He's going on to the walker in a moment,

0:39:430:39:46

and he's going to have an exercise on there for half an hour.

0:39:460:39:49

So, he has a groom now, before he goes on.

0:39:490:39:52

And then, after that, he'll spend the day relaxing before this afternoon.

0:39:520:39:56

-So, how old is Marosh?

-He's two.

0:39:560:39:58

And is that the age of most racehorses?

0:39:580:40:00

Yes, they begin their career at two

0:40:000:40:03

and they can go on for a good few years.

0:40:030:40:05

Is your heart in your mouth when you watch them racing? Do you get nervous?

0:40:050:40:09

It is, because you're really rooting for them, and obviously you do so much work with them every day,

0:40:090:40:14

and it's so good to see them do well.

0:40:140:40:17

It's really good to watch them progress.

0:40:170:40:19

-Does he know where we're going now?

-Yeah.

-Do they enjoy it?

0:40:250:40:28

-Yeah, he loves his exercise.

-Really?

0:40:280:40:31

He's anxious to get going, isn't he?

0:40:320:40:35

He loves it on there.

0:40:350:40:36

So, the idea of this, this is just a fast walking pace?

0:40:360:40:42

They'll get a nice brisk walk on here.

0:40:420:40:44

-He looks quite frisky.

-He is quite frisky.

0:40:440:40:47

Obviously, he's a colt so he can be quite playful,

0:40:470:40:50

quite boisterous, but that's all part of who he is and that's obviously a good thing in a racehorse.

0:40:500:40:57

Marosh's race-day is set to a strict schedule.

0:40:580:41:01

Following his morning exercise on the walker, he's put back into his freshly mucked-out stable.

0:41:010:41:07

At lunch, he has a special mix feed, fresh water then, in the afternoon, a good rest.

0:41:070:41:12

Finally, he's groomed, tacked up, and given some finishing touches

0:41:120:41:16

to make sure he's looking his best before he's put into the trailer for the short drive to Newmarket races.

0:41:160:41:23

There we have it, Marosh is safely in the horsebox.

0:41:270:41:30

He's been groomed, he's had a nice relaxing day, and now, the really hard stuff begins.

0:41:300:41:35

We're off to the 5.45 at Newmarket.

0:41:350:41:38

Race-day is the measure of all the hard work and preparation a stable puts in.

0:41:400:41:45

All these horses are bred to be winners,

0:41:450:41:47

and the showcase for British thoroughbred breeding is the National Stud.

0:41:470:41:52

It's reckoned one in four people living in Newmarket is involved in the racing business.

0:41:590:42:04

Just outside the town is the National Stud, dedicated to breeding thoroughbreds.

0:42:040:42:09

And perhaps its most famous stallion was the great Derby winner Mill Reef.

0:42:090:42:14

As part of its educational brief, the stud is open to the public.

0:42:140:42:19

So, was the National Stud actually set up to breed racehorses?

0:42:190:42:24

Not originally, no.

0:42:240:42:25

It was originally set up in 1916,

0:42:250:42:28

when a chap called Colonel Hall Walker,

0:42:280:42:30

who later became Lord Wavertree,

0:42:300:42:33

gifted his horses to the government,

0:42:330:42:36

with the idea of breeding and producing horses for the army.

0:42:360:42:40

Obviously, that need became less and less as time passed by and we've evolved into what we are now.

0:42:400:42:47

Horse racing is an elitist sport, you've got to be pretty wealthy to get really involved in it,

0:42:470:42:52

so is the National Stud trying to do anything to make it more accessible?

0:42:520:42:56

Yes, that's the whole raison d'etre actually, of the National Stud,

0:42:560:43:00

is about raising awareness and educating people.

0:43:000:43:03

One of the means of doing that is our owner breeders' clubs.

0:43:030:43:06

The most recent one is the Blakeney Club,

0:43:060:43:09

which is open to anybody to join for £1,500 and it's a five-year club.

0:43:090:43:16

They own their own mares, the mares have foals,

0:43:160:43:20

one of the foals per year may be retained

0:43:200:43:22

to go into training as a two-year-old, and the others are sold.

0:43:220:43:26

So they have the experience of being involved with the purchase of mares,

0:43:260:43:30

the covering and mating plans of mares, the racing of the two-year-old,

0:43:300:43:34

and then the selling of all the bloodstock at the end of the five years.

0:43:340:43:38

The National Stud also runs government-funded diploma courses,

0:43:380:43:42

which are free to young people from all backgrounds

0:43:420:43:45

who are wanting to take up a career in the racing industry.

0:43:450:43:50

What kind of things are you learning?

0:43:500:43:52

We're learning about the care of the mare and foal,

0:43:520:43:56

how to look after sick foals, or ill foals.

0:43:560:43:59

And the problems we have getting mares and foals sometimes.

0:43:590:44:04

Would you have been able to do this course if you had to pay for it?

0:44:040:44:09

It would have been quite difficult,

0:44:090:44:11

cos it would have cost quite a bit, with accommodation and food.

0:44:110:44:15

So what's your ambition,

0:44:150:44:16

once you've got the Diploma? And you're going to get it, aren't you?

0:44:160:44:20

I'm going to get it! I'm hoping to go travelling across the world

0:44:200:44:24

and experience how studs are run in Australia and New Zealand.

0:44:240:44:29

The stud has a line-up of six top-class stallions,

0:44:300:44:33

and owners of mares pay competitive rates to have them mated,

0:44:330:44:36

hoping for winners like this.

0:44:360:44:39

Because gestation lasts for 340 days, owners have a long wait before they see the results.

0:44:390:44:45

Right now, it's foaling time. This little filly was born six weeks ago.

0:44:450:44:49

She was one of the first. Since then, there have been another 40, and there could be 50 more to come.

0:44:490:44:54

Can you tell at this early age, this one is just a few weeks old, whether it's got potential?

0:45:030:45:08

You can always tell if you've a nice foal when they're born

0:45:080:45:14

and then you hope...

0:45:140:45:15

you hope everybody else, when they go to the sales,

0:45:150:45:18

will see they have potential.

0:45:180:45:20

Over the years of working with these animals, you do get to instantly recognise if it's a nice foal.

0:45:200:45:27

Would you put your money on this one or not?

0:45:270:45:29

This foal here is by a first-season sire called Starcraft.

0:45:290:45:35

He was an exceptional racehorse. Hopefully, this has every chance

0:45:350:45:39

and will be, hopefully, as good as his dad one day.

0:45:390:45:43

Do you ever have a bet on a foal that you've seen delivered here?

0:45:430:45:48

Every mare I've foaled, I've followed their offspring

0:45:480:45:51

and I always like to keep track of which trainer they go to,

0:45:510:45:54

their names and like to watch them on the racecourse.

0:45:540:45:57

If there's one or two I always was very fond of, I normally support them when they go to the races.

0:45:570:46:04

You make a profit from it then?

0:46:040:46:06

No, no! The biggest tip is not to back them.

0:46:060:46:10

And, who knows, maybe in a few years' time, this young colt could be a star of the turf.

0:46:200:46:27

Today, I'm hoping the star of the turf will be Marosh.

0:46:300:46:34

We're arriving at the famous Newmarket racecourse for his big race. The 5.45.

0:46:340:46:41

Marosh's trainer is already here.

0:46:410:46:44

First of all, what makes a good racehorse?

0:46:440:46:46

Pedigree, conformation... size of the engine.

0:46:460:46:50

Here he comes, in fact, with Linda.

0:46:500:46:52

Looking a bit frisky today.

0:46:520:46:54

Yes, he's a bit friskier than he was this morning.

0:46:540:46:57

This morning, he wasn't subdued at all,

0:46:570:46:59

but he was very quiet and very relaxed,

0:46:590:47:01

but he's definitely a little bit more on his toes,

0:47:010:47:04

which is a good sign.

0:47:040:47:05

-You're happy with that?

-Definitely.

0:47:050:47:07

What do you think his chances are today?

0:47:070:47:09

I'd say he's got a very good chance. If we were second, I'd be delighted.

0:47:090:47:13

Third, I'd be a smidgen disappointed,

0:47:130:47:15

fourth, very disappointed, fifth, I'll be home before he gets home.

0:47:150:47:19

-This is the saddle?

-This is the saddle.

0:47:240:47:27

Not much of it. It's teeny. That's just extraordinary, isn't it?

0:47:270:47:32

Yes, that's a fair-sized saddle, actually, compared to what some of them use.

0:47:320:47:36

It's very important, the weight of the jockey, the saddle and the horse, is that right?

0:47:360:47:40

It adds up to the weight on the race card, which is nine stone three, I think. Yes, this is a weight cloth.

0:47:400:47:47

A chamois to stop the saddle from slipping and a number cloth.

0:47:470:47:53

With the saddle fitted, the remainder of the nine stone three is our jockey for the day.

0:47:590:48:04

You're confident today?

0:48:040:48:06

-Yes, very much so.

-Is there much rivalry between you jockeys?

0:48:060:48:09

Um... Yeah, we're all mates, but at the end of the day,

0:48:090:48:13

when we come out here, it's about winning.

0:48:130:48:17

No inches asked and no inches given.

0:48:170:48:20

It's just part and parcel of the job. It's the way it goes.

0:48:200:48:26

-I'm going to put some money on you. Please win.

-I'll do my best.

0:48:260:48:31

I don't think any of the newcomers are going to lead. I doubt that.

0:48:310:48:35

If Johnson wants to go on, just sit right on its quarters all the way.

0:48:350:48:39

Yeah, I'm going to quarter-up to him pretty much from the word go.

0:48:390:48:42

Beautiful. I don't mind if you lead all the way.

0:48:420:48:45

You know he's as straight as a die. He knows his job. Good, OK.

0:48:450:48:48

Good luck.

0:48:480:48:50

The time's come to part with some of my hard-earned cash on the lovely Marosh.

0:48:510:48:57

Hello. Can I please put £5 on Marosh?

0:48:570:49:01

£5 on Number 2.

0:49:020:49:03

Yes, please. So that's 9 to 2?

0:49:030:49:06

Four-and-a-half to one. If it wins, I'll pay you 5-1.

0:49:060:49:09

Yes, will you? Can I shake on that, a gentleman's agreement?

0:49:090:49:12

5-1 on Marosh.

0:49:120:49:14

I began my Norfolk journey high in the sky above Tibenham Airfield.

0:49:200:49:23

I travelled along the Peddar's Way before going ape up in the trees of Thetford Forest.

0:49:230:49:29

I then went to Lynford and on to the Neolithic site of Grime's Graves

0:49:290:49:33

before arriving at my final destination, Newmarket.

0:49:330:49:37

Newmarket is known as the historic home of horseracing.

0:49:420:49:45

It has two racecourses and 50 miles of gallop turf.

0:49:450:49:49

Typically, there are over 2,500 racehorses training in this area.

0:49:490:49:54

But for me, it's all about one horse.

0:49:540:49:56

We've followed Marosh throughout the day and he's about to compete in his big race,

0:49:560:50:01

the 5.45.

0:50:010:50:03

Right, I have put my bet on.

0:50:050:50:07

-How much have you put on?

-£5.

0:50:070:50:09

-Each way or on the nose?

-I don't know.

0:50:090:50:11

I got the worst odds, I got 9-2, but then he promised me 5-1. But I assume I just put it on winning.

0:50:110:50:18

Apparently, I take home about £27 if I win.

0:50:180:50:21

That would buy you fish and chips and a nice bottle of wine.

0:50:210:50:24

-You must be Tom.

-I am, indeed.

0:50:240:50:26

You're one of the owners of Marosh?

0:50:260:50:28

I am, yes.

0:50:280:50:29

You look very... Everyone is relaxed. I think I'm the only one that has got nerves today.

0:50:290:50:33

We're probably more used to it than you, in fairness.

0:50:330:50:36

I was nervous when he ran in France because it's a long way to go

0:50:360:50:39

if he had underperformed. Here, it's only just down the road.

0:50:390:50:43

He's run before. We're hopeful, but there's a horse that's really quite well fancied in the race.

0:50:430:50:49

Perhaps if we were that horse, I'd be more nervous because we'd be expected to win.

0:50:490:50:54

You're the underdogs and therefore the pressure isn't on you?

0:50:540:50:57

We're still second in the betting, so fingers crossed we can come second.

0:50:570:51:01

What would it mean to you if Marosh did win?

0:51:010:51:04

It would be very nice, to be honest.

0:51:040:51:07

With the youngsters, it's always, I think, an extra little buzz

0:51:070:51:12

that you've actually bought when they're a yearling,

0:51:120:51:15

that you've found something that's quite nice and you watch them grow up

0:51:150:51:19

at the stables, whereas perhaps with an older horse,

0:51:190:51:21

a lot of what they do on the racetrack has already been there before.

0:51:210:51:25

It's not unexpected.

0:51:250:51:27

Perhaps an element of surprise and added buzz with a young one.

0:51:270:51:30

We're off. Here we go.

0:51:300:51:32

Wearing orange and blue and the number two is our horse, Marosh.

0:51:320:51:37

-ANNOUNCER:

-Social Grace on the right through the first furlong.

0:51:400:51:44

The favourite's leading and we're third.

0:51:440:51:47

-We're closing up now.

-Come on!

0:51:500:51:52

Furlong and a half complete, it's The Hermitage, Joe Fanning controlling the pace here.

0:51:520:51:58

Marosh, Shane Kelly in the blue and orange striding on.

0:51:580:52:02

Social Grace pushed along...

0:52:020:52:05

The finish line is just here.

0:52:060:52:09

-Where is he?

-He's just up there.

0:52:090:52:11

Come on! Here they come!

0:52:110:52:13

Social Grace begins to run on from Audacity Of Hope, Marosh and Rosedale.

0:52:130:52:20

The Hermitage has quickened a couple of lengths clear.

0:52:200:52:24

Social Grace is back in third. The Hermitage is extending.

0:52:240:52:29

Roaring away. Joe Fanning steals a peek. No dangers for The Hermitage...

0:52:290:52:33

Ohhhh! Fourth place for Marosh.

0:52:360:52:39

-He finished.

-He did.

0:52:390:52:41

And we can blame you for cursing him.

0:52:410:52:43

Are you disappointed by that?

0:52:430:52:46

Yes, there may possibly be an explanation,

0:52:460:52:49

the ground may not have been right for him, it might have been a false pace, we don't know.

0:52:490:52:54

-I think we should see what the jockey says.

-Absolutely.

0:52:540:52:57

That's a bit disappointing.

0:52:570:53:00

So, I think everyone's a bit disappointed, really.

0:53:120:53:17

Fourth, but we'll go and find out how the jockey found it.

0:53:170:53:21

The conditions are pretty quick.

0:53:210:53:23

It was all happening a bit too fast for him.

0:53:230:53:27

Because of the downhill into the dip,

0:53:270:53:29

he didn't handle that well because he wasn't travelling that well.

0:53:290:53:33

The conditions were just against him.

0:53:330:53:35

He's a horse for the future, I'd say, more so than actually now.

0:53:350:53:39

Do think so? So there is a bright light?

0:53:390:53:42

Absolutely. The ground was just a little bit too lively for him.

0:53:420:53:47

-Yes.

-OK.

-Thanks.

-Thank you very much.

0:53:470:53:49

And thank you guys for letting me follow you throughout the day.

0:53:490:53:52

-Sorry it wasn't as happy an ending as we hoped, but, hey, he lives to run another day.

-Exactly.

0:53:520:53:58

-Fantastic.

-Thanks very much.

-Thank you.

0:53:580:54:00

He's having a deserved bath.

0:54:000:54:02

Well, I began this journey soaring thousands of feet above the East Anglia countryside

0:54:090:54:14

and I've ended it with my feet firmly on the ground here at the famous racecourse in Newmarket.

0:54:140:54:19

Sadly, Marosh was not a winner and it looks like my million will have to wait for another day.

0:54:190:54:24

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