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Today, I'm on a lakeland journey, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:20 | |
from Eskdale, through the fells, to the mountainous Honister Pass. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:24 | |
My Cumbrian journey will take me | 0:00:24 | 0:00:25 | |
through the villages of the Eskdale Valley, | 0:00:25 | 0:00:28 | |
westwards towards the coastal town of St Bees | 0:00:28 | 0:00:31 | |
and then back inland, to the Fells of Borrowdale | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
and along the Honister Pass. | 0:00:34 | 0:00:36 | |
Along the way, I'll be looking back at some of the best of the BBC's rural programmes. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:40 | |
This is Country Tracks. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:42 | |
I'm starting my journey here in the fells of the Lake District | 0:00:46 | 0:00:50 | |
on a route where it pays to expect the unexpected. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:54 | |
See what I mean. | 0:00:57 | 0:00:59 | |
I'm hitching a lift with the Bedrose Harley Owners Group from Preston, | 0:01:01 | 0:01:06 | |
who come to these fells every month for the ultimate riding experience. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:10 | |
Wow. | 0:01:12 | 0:01:13 | |
An exhilarating ride, | 0:01:13 | 0:01:15 | |
but nice as it is, it kind of is the antithesis to countryside life, isn't it? | 0:01:15 | 0:01:20 | |
Well, it's good, cos it gives us the chance to be out in the countryside, | 0:01:20 | 0:01:23 | |
see the open roads. You get the wind in your hair. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:26 | |
-Yeah. -Well, some of us do, and you get to enjoy yourself. | 0:01:26 | 0:01:28 | |
See everything. Smell the smells. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:30 | |
-See the views. -Yeah. -Enjoy the countryside. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:32 | |
How do people react to you? | 0:01:32 | 0:01:34 | |
To be honest, we get a cracking reception | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
whenever we turn up anywhere. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:37 | |
Only the other week we went for a ride up in to Hawkeshead on the lakes and we were welcomed | 0:01:37 | 0:01:42 | |
with open arms. The locals told us where to park because of traffic wardens! | 0:01:42 | 0:01:46 | |
"If you don't mind, just move on to the pavement." | 0:01:46 | 0:01:49 | |
I've got a favour to ask - I need to get to Santon Bridge. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:52 | |
-Yeah, no problem. -You're a very kind man. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
I'm starting my journey on a high performance motorbike. | 0:01:56 | 0:02:00 | |
Great fun, but not everyone's idea of a rural pursuit. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:04 | |
If you want to explore this part of the world on two wheels | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
and get some exercise, the Eskdale trail cycle route could be for you. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:12 | |
This Roman port turned sleepy fishing village of Ravenglass | 0:02:12 | 0:02:17 | |
has been the gateway to this quiet western corner | 0:02:17 | 0:02:20 | |
of the Lake District for centuries. | 0:02:20 | 0:02:22 | |
It's seen Romans and Norsemen come and go, but now it's the turn... | 0:02:22 | 0:02:28 | |
of the cyclist. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:30 | |
For those who want to explore the unspoilt valleys of West Cumbria, | 0:02:41 | 0:02:45 | |
a new cycle route, the Eskdale Trail, is now up and running. | 0:02:45 | 0:02:50 | |
The circular trail stretches from the coastal village of Ravenglass | 0:02:50 | 0:02:54 | |
to Dalegarth Station in Eskdale, | 0:02:54 | 0:02:56 | |
before looping back on itself to the coast. | 0:02:56 | 0:02:59 | |
And if you are thinking I might run out of steam, well, there's no danger of that. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:10 | |
First part of the journey is by train. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:12 | |
'The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, | 0:03:15 | 0:03:17 | |
'or the La'al Ratty as it's known locally, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:20 | |
'carries you and your bike on the first leg of the journey.' | 0:03:20 | 0:03:25 | |
David, I've got to say this is a cushy way to start a bike ride. | 0:03:35 | 0:03:39 | |
The best way of starting any bike ride, surely. | 0:03:39 | 0:03:42 | |
How long has this track been going? | 0:03:42 | 0:03:44 | |
The railway's been here now for 130 years next year. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:48 | |
Opened in 1875 | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
to serve iron ore mines | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
that were situated behind the village of Boot, | 0:03:54 | 0:03:57 | |
at the other end of the valley. | 0:03:57 | 0:03:59 | |
Why is this railway called Ratty? | 0:04:00 | 0:04:03 | |
The Cumbrian dialect of a "trod" is a track or pathway. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:08 | |
Ratten is narrow, | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
so because it was narrower than the mainline railway, it was the ratten trod | 0:04:11 | 0:04:15 | |
or the narrow path, narrow track, | 0:04:15 | 0:04:17 | |
and it's just been shortened down to become Ratty. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:20 | |
Why do you love it so much? | 0:04:21 | 0:04:23 | |
The scenery, I mean, how could you bore of scenery like this? | 0:04:23 | 0:04:27 | |
This is Muncaster Fell, we can see here. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:30 | |
This actually separates Miterdale, where we are now, | 0:04:30 | 0:04:34 | |
from Eskdale, which is the other side of the fell. | 0:04:34 | 0:04:37 | |
I think people just don't realise how lovely it is across here. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
INAUDIBLE SPEECH | 0:05:00 | 0:05:03 | |
It's now time to ditch the steam power. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:07 | |
It's back to the pedal power. | 0:05:07 | 0:05:09 | |
The great thing about the Eskdale Trail is that | 0:05:11 | 0:05:13 | |
there are plenty of interesting things to see | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
that are just off the cycle route. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:17 | |
I've been told there's a fantastic view from the head of the valley, | 0:05:17 | 0:05:21 | |
so I've decided to take a bit of a detour. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:23 | |
Well, that is an amazing view. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:42 | |
Whoever told me to cycle up here was definitely having a laugh! | 0:05:42 | 0:05:47 | |
That is ridiculously hard work. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:51 | |
Now, then, hello, are you pushing your bike up? | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
-Can't you pedal up like? -You're joking, aren't you? | 0:05:54 | 0:05:57 | |
That is so difficult. It's hard enough just pushing it. | 0:05:57 | 0:06:01 | |
Well, you can't admire the view like! If you look down there, see what a wonderful view we have? | 0:06:01 | 0:06:06 | |
-It is a fantastic view. -You've come up to see the view? | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
Yes. I came up to look at. So are you from around here? | 0:06:09 | 0:06:12 | |
Well, if you call 30 mile yon way, 50 mile around round here, | 0:06:12 | 0:06:16 | |
it's near enough, aye. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:19 | |
So over the centuries, who has lived here? | 0:06:19 | 0:06:22 | |
Started off with ancient Britons. They lived on the shore. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:25 | |
Neolithic people, some you'll find on the shore. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:28 | |
And then the Romans came and the remains of the fort there. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:32 | |
Then we had the Vikings came, the Norsemen came across the Irish Sea and they settled in the valley. | 0:06:32 | 0:06:39 | |
And they called it Eskdale. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
And dale is a Viking termination for a valley. | 0:06:43 | 0:06:48 | |
And Esk is either the valley of the river Esk, | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
which is no doubt a Celtic river name, or else it's ashes, ash trees. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:56 | |
Is it the Norsemen that had such an influence on the dialect here? | 0:06:56 | 0:07:00 | |
I think so, yes, by and large. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:02 | |
All these fells and gills and dales, all Viking names. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:05 | |
If you go to Norway, you'll hear the same words. | 0:07:05 | 0:07:08 | |
-Are you going back down to Eskdale by bike now, are you? -Yeah. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:11 | |
I am, actually. So wish me luck. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:13 | |
Well, I wish you every bit of good luck. All the best and that. | 0:07:13 | 0:07:17 | |
Diven't tumble off, when you get down that hill! | 0:07:17 | 0:07:19 | |
"Don't tumble off." I think that's what he said. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:21 | |
-Good to meet you. Thank you very much for the chat. -Bye-bye. All the best. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:25 | |
Let's just hope these brakes are good. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
Take care, now. Take care. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:30 | |
Thanks. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:32 | |
This is the Woolpack Inn | 0:07:52 | 0:07:54 | |
and it's been a meeting place for local shepherds for about 150 years. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:58 | |
It's also a great place to stop for a break, which I think I deserve after the Hardknott Pass. | 0:07:58 | 0:08:03 | |
This is David. He's lived in this area for all his life | 0:08:06 | 0:08:08 | |
and has recently become the landlord of the Woolpack Inn. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:12 | |
Why is it called the Woolpack Inn? | 0:08:12 | 0:08:14 | |
It's because of the woolpacks they carried on the horse trains, | 0:08:14 | 0:08:19 | |
from when they sheared the sheep, they used to pack the wool | 0:08:19 | 0:08:22 | |
into packs that were swung either side of the horse | 0:08:22 | 0:08:25 | |
and big trains of these horses were taken over the fells, | 0:08:25 | 0:08:29 | |
over the passes, to their trading points from the farms. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:32 | |
Is the pub now a place where farmers meet or is it more of a tourist area? | 0:08:32 | 0:08:36 | |
It is a lot more of a tourist pub. We rely a lot more on tourism these days for our trade | 0:08:36 | 0:08:40 | |
although we still do get plenty of farmers in | 0:08:40 | 0:08:43 | |
from time to time and have a good chinwag about shearing and lambing and everything else. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:48 | |
I think they find it useful to chill out over a drink, | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
a few pints, when they've had a hard day on the farm. | 0:08:51 | 0:08:54 | |
-Well, if you're going to be a landlord of a pub, it's not a bad place to pick, is it? -Yeah. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
It's beautiful. It is. It's lovely. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:00 | |
After leaving the landlord with his beautiful view, it's back on the bike. | 0:09:00 | 0:09:05 | |
Now, the Eskdale Trail follows the River Esk for the first three miles, | 0:09:07 | 0:09:11 | |
providing plenty of shady rest stops for the weary cyclist to take a break. | 0:09:11 | 0:09:15 | |
Well, this may be a very pretty trail but I've got to tell you, there are a lot of gates, | 0:09:26 | 0:09:31 | |
which are slightly difficult to open when you're on a bike. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:35 | |
From here, the river and trail part ways as you leave the valley floor behind | 0:09:44 | 0:09:49 | |
and head up towards the top of Muncaster Fell. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:52 | |
Well, this is the highest point of the Eskdale Trail. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:57 | |
Although it takes a bit of effort to get here, it's well worth it, | 0:09:57 | 0:10:00 | |
because you come to this, Muncaster Tarn, which is a beautiful lake | 0:10:00 | 0:10:05 | |
and obviously a hotspot for dragonflies. | 0:10:05 | 0:10:08 | |
Leaving Muncaster Tarn, it's all downhill as you head back towards Ravenglass and the coast. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:26 | |
Now, this is the most obvious landmark on the cycle route. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
It's Muncaster Castle. It's been in the Pennington family for over | 0:10:34 | 0:10:38 | |
800 years and since 1987, it's also been home to the World Owl Trust. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:43 | |
'The World Owl Trust is a leading player in owl conservation. | 0:10:43 | 0:10:47 | |
'Its habitat, restoration and breeding programmes | 0:10:47 | 0:10:51 | |
'currently safeguard the future of over 42 different species. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:55 | |
'I dropped in to see its founder, Tony Warburton.' | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
Wow, look at this. | 0:10:58 | 0:10:59 | |
I've got to say, Tony, this is one of my favourite owls. | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
I mean, look at that owl. Look at that head. The Great Grey Owl. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
-He's just so fantastic. -Do you know why it's got a face like that? -Why? | 0:11:05 | 0:11:09 | |
It can hear a vole under a metre of snow and catch it. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:13 | |
-That's like a satellite dish, isn't it? -It's picking up sounds all the time. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:16 | |
You see how it's turning its head very slowly. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:19 | |
That's where the wise, old owl comes from, the slow movement. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:22 | |
Now, it's probably the finest hearing in all the owl world. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:25 | |
Another one of my favourite owls that we get in this country is the barn owl | 0:11:25 | 0:11:29 | |
-and I know you've done a lot of projects with barn owls, haven't you? -A barn owl, as far as I'm concerned, | 0:11:29 | 0:11:34 | |
is the bee's knees and it nearly died out and nobody realised it was on the verge. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:38 | |
What's the status of barn owls at the moment? | 0:11:38 | 0:11:40 | |
Well, we think they're just beginning to make a comeback. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:43 | |
I pray God they are, because this is the first good sign we've seen | 0:11:43 | 0:11:47 | |
for a long, long time. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:48 | |
We really, honestly thought we were going to lose them altogether at one stage. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:52 | |
Look at this. How sweet is that? | 0:11:52 | 0:11:55 | |
-How old is it, Tony? -About four weeks old. | 0:11:55 | 0:11:58 | |
He's just getting to what I call the gonk stage. Starts off | 0:11:58 | 0:12:02 | |
as a reptile, the most ugly baby ever. | 0:12:02 | 0:12:04 | |
-What happened to it? -Well, he's a little runty one, really. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
He was a clutch of six and he was the last one to be born and all his | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
brothers and sisters got fed well and he didn't and he got left behind, basically. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:17 | |
What are its chances, then? | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
He'll probably do better than a wild-fed owl, because | 0:12:19 | 0:12:23 | |
he's going to be fed every night whether the weather's good or bad. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:27 | |
The wild ones, if it's raining or it's real galey, they're not going to get fed. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:31 | |
I've seen my owls, but before I get on my way again, I thought I'd wait for the handfeeding, | 0:12:32 | 0:12:36 | |
which happens any minute now. It's amazing. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
You can see all the herons gathering already, in the trees, | 0:12:39 | 0:12:42 | |
so they're obviously hungry. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:44 | |
HE SHOUTS | 0:12:44 | 0:12:49 | |
Time to hit the trail again | 0:13:01 | 0:13:03 | |
for the final leg of the journey. And from here, | 0:13:03 | 0:13:06 | |
it's all downhill back to Ravenglass. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:10 | |
Well, I've made it, all the way back to Ravenglass. | 0:13:17 | 0:13:20 | |
The trail has taken me 15-and-a-half miles, through some | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
of the most beautiful scenery the Lake District has to offer. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:27 | |
If you ask me, the Eskdale Trail is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:32 | |
So, what are you waiting for? | 0:13:32 | 0:13:34 | |
The rich variety of landscape history and attractions in this part of | 0:13:38 | 0:13:42 | |
the country, and the great thing is, much of it's undiscovered. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:47 | |
Something Western Cumbria justifiably takes pride in. | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
It also takes pride in producing something quite different, the world's finest liars. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:59 | |
That's why I've come to the village of Santon Bridge, for it's here in this very pub that they host | 0:13:59 | 0:14:04 | |
the World's Biggest Liar competition, and I'm here to meet the reigning champ. | 0:14:04 | 0:14:08 | |
John Graham is seven-times winner of The World's Biggest Liar title, at least he says he is. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:14 | |
-Hello, John. Good to meet you. -Hello. Nice to meet you. -How are you doing? | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
'John looks like a man confident of his abilities. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:21 | |
'Time to put this champion liar through his paces. | 0:14:21 | 0:14:24 | |
'He's going to tell me one of his favourite tall tales | 0:14:24 | 0:14:27 | |
'about a well-known local nuclear power station.' | 0:14:27 | 0:14:31 | |
Sellafield. It doesn't use nuclear power. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
A chap who did work there was a very keen fisherman | 0:14:35 | 0:14:39 | |
and he used to go fishing | 0:14:39 | 0:14:41 | |
for conger eels and he had a large pond which he put his conger eels in. | 0:14:41 | 0:14:45 | |
He also kept Rouen ducks, but one of the conger eels | 0:14:45 | 0:14:49 | |
-mated with one of the ducks. -I can't believe it! -Like an eel, | 0:14:49 | 0:14:53 | |
but with beaks and with webbed feet | 0:14:53 | 0:14:55 | |
and when they were going over the pond, they went that fast | 0:14:55 | 0:14:58 | |
because they were as fast as an eel, | 0:14:58 | 0:15:00 | |
sparks were flying out of the water and he thought, | 0:15:00 | 0:15:03 | |
"That's generating electricity." | 0:15:03 | 0:15:05 | |
And that's how all the electricity's produced in Sellafield. | 0:15:05 | 0:15:08 | |
-Not many people know that... -No. -..but I do. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:11 | |
I'm sure 2009 is going to have your name on this trophy as well, John. A fantastic tale. | 0:15:11 | 0:15:16 | |
So that's world-class lying from the heart of Cumbria. But it's time for me to be on the move again. | 0:15:16 | 0:15:21 | |
I'm heading up the coast by train | 0:15:21 | 0:15:22 | |
on one of Britain's most scenic rail routes, heading for St Bees. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:26 | |
The Cumbrian coastline links | 0:15:26 | 0:15:28 | |
Barrow-in-Furness to the border city of Carlisle. It's a journey | 0:15:28 | 0:15:32 | |
set against the stunning backdrop of the Lake District fells, | 0:15:32 | 0:15:36 | |
but in some of these picturesque villages, all is not what it seems. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:40 | |
A couple of miles in that direction is Egremont, | 0:15:40 | 0:15:44 | |
where I'm not going, but in 2002, Michaela did. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:48 | |
A very beautiful setting for an ugly past-time. | 0:15:48 | 0:15:51 | |
This is the beautiful Lake District, | 0:15:51 | 0:15:54 | |
home to the tallest mountain and the deepest lake in England. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:57 | |
But today, it's home to something | 0:15:57 | 0:15:59 | |
a little bit different. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:00 | |
The Egremont Crab Fair, which is a celebration of local rural traditions | 0:16:00 | 0:16:05 | |
including one of the oddest competitions in the country's calendar. | 0:16:05 | 0:16:10 | |
The World Gurning Championships. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:12 | |
Alan, I get the general idea about gurning, but is it just pulling a face? | 0:16:28 | 0:16:33 | |
No. It's more than that, especially to the people of Egremont. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
We're recognised as having the World Championship and it means... | 0:16:36 | 0:16:42 | |
It's like footballers to the big city people. | 0:16:42 | 0:16:44 | |
This is our event and we're the kings of it | 0:16:44 | 0:16:47 | |
and we're going to stay the ugliest people in the world. | 0:16:47 | 0:16:50 | |
I've been talked into taking part this year, so I went on a search | 0:16:50 | 0:16:55 | |
for top tips, but it was easier said than done. | 0:16:55 | 0:16:58 | |
It was a bit difficult telling the gurners from the normal people. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:02 | |
I've found one, and if he can't help me, no-one can. | 0:17:05 | 0:17:08 | |
This is Tommy, who's the current World Champion in gurning. | 0:17:08 | 0:17:12 | |
-How long have you been doing it? -I've been gurning round about 26 years. | 0:17:12 | 0:17:17 | |
-How did you find out you were good at it? -My dad was World Champion then | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
and he kept coming back every year with this cup and I wondered what it was. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:24 | |
He said it was for gurning, pulling faces, so I started doing it myself. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:28 | |
I'm entering this year and I've never done it before, so can you give me a master class? | 0:17:28 | 0:17:33 | |
-Yeah. What you need to do, you want to be blowing your cheeks up... -Yeah. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:37 | |
..like, right up. | 0:17:37 | 0:17:39 | |
Putting your lip up to your nose. Crossing your eyes. So it's like... | 0:17:39 | 0:17:41 | |
..that sort of face... That's it. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:47 | |
And look at your nose. That's it. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:48 | |
I think she'll win it! | 0:17:48 | 0:17:50 | |
Now, Tommy's big rival is a guy called Peter, and I'm really lucky to find him, | 0:17:50 | 0:17:55 | |
because he likes to keep himself to himself. | 0:17:55 | 0:17:57 | |
He's in here. I guess it's cos the competition is "intent." | 0:17:57 | 0:18:01 | |
-Hi, Peter. I found you practising, then. -Yes. -How's your face feeling? | 0:18:02 | 0:18:06 | |
Very good at the moment. | 0:18:06 | 0:18:08 | |
-What lengths do you go to to pull a good gurn? -Er... | 0:18:08 | 0:18:13 | |
I had my teeth taken out. | 0:18:13 | 0:18:14 | |
-Serious? -Yes. -Just so you could pull a better gurn? -Yeah. -That's extreme. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
Why not? I'm a world champion. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:20 | |
Peter's top gurning tip for the day is that marks were given not only on the face itself | 0:18:20 | 0:18:25 | |
but the transformation from your normal look. With that thought, | 0:18:25 | 0:18:29 | |
I head to the market hall, where the evening's events are already taking shape. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:34 | |
First, I have to register. | 0:18:34 | 0:18:37 | |
Then, it's over to the juniors. | 0:18:37 | 0:18:40 | |
Looks like there's a future champ here. What an ugly bunch! | 0:18:40 | 0:18:45 | |
Well, it's the Ladies' Gurning Championships next. | 0:18:51 | 0:18:55 | |
I'm actually getting a little bit nervous. | 0:18:55 | 0:18:59 | |
# Sisters are doing it for themselves... # | 0:18:59 | 0:19:04 | |
'Go for it, girls!' | 0:19:04 | 0:19:06 | |
# ..Standing on their own two feet | 0:19:06 | 0:19:09 | |
# And ringing on their own bells... # | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
-..Michaela Strachan. -CHEERING AND APPLAUSE | 0:19:12 | 0:19:17 | |
All the way from Bristol. Come on, let's hear you! | 0:19:17 | 0:19:20 | |
# Sisters are doing it for themselves... # | 0:19:20 | 0:19:25 | |
'Oh, boy, will I ever live this down?' | 0:19:25 | 0:19:27 | |
# ..Sisters are doing it for themselves. # | 0:19:27 | 0:19:31 | |
I don't know if that was my best face. I got nervous. | 0:19:31 | 0:19:35 | |
The moment everyone's been waiting for - Mrs Anne Woods! | 0:19:35 | 0:19:39 | |
Anne is this year's favourite and 24-times Ladies' World Champion. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:43 | |
And it's a good gurn. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:45 | |
Now for the big boys. | 0:19:48 | 0:19:51 | |
The tension's mounting. | 0:19:51 | 0:19:53 | |
The stakes are high. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:54 | |
And the gurns are ugly. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:58 | |
This is Tommy's dad, Gordon. | 0:20:04 | 0:20:07 | |
Will his gurn make him this year's comeback champion? | 0:20:07 | 0:20:10 | |
Will Tommy's amazingly rubbery face mean he'll retain the title? | 0:20:14 | 0:20:19 | |
Or will Peter make it as this year's top gurner? | 0:20:19 | 0:20:24 | |
-Tommy, how do you think you did? -I think I done all right. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:29 | |
I tried my best and it was a good competition. A few people in. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
Dad was in. Peter Jackman. Hopefully, I've done the business. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:35 | |
Peter, you pulled a good face. | 0:20:35 | 0:20:37 | |
-Thank you very much. -What do you think? | 0:20:37 | 0:20:39 | |
I thought it was fantastic. Great atmosphere. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:43 | |
Do you think you'll come first? | 0:20:43 | 0:20:45 | |
-I think one or two. Yeah. -Yeah? -Well, I was second last year, so I think it's one or two. Yeah. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:50 | |
And now for the results. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:55 | |
Third place, put your hands together please for Susie... | 0:20:55 | 0:21:00 | |
Second place, this year, | 0:21:01 | 0:21:03 | |
-big hand for Egremont's own Anne Woods. -'Uh-oh! Now, I'm nervous.' | 0:21:03 | 0:21:08 | |
Ladies and gents, I think we all know what's going to happen here. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:13 | |
All the way from Bristol this evening, the first time she's ever gurned in her life... | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
She works for the BBC - Countryfile... Michaela Strachan! | 0:21:18 | 0:21:24 | |
-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE -Let's hear you. Come on! | 0:21:24 | 0:21:27 | |
I can't believe that, I've won! | 0:21:27 | 0:21:29 | |
I'm not really sure what I think about that. I've won a prize for looking ugly! | 0:21:29 | 0:21:34 | |
CHEERING | 0:21:34 | 0:21:37 | |
And what about this year's male champion? | 0:21:37 | 0:21:39 | |
In third place, put your hands together, please, it's Gordon Mattinson. Come on! | 0:21:41 | 0:21:48 | |
Mr Peter Jackman, come on! | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
This year's Male Gurning Champion... | 0:21:57 | 0:22:00 | |
..Tommy Mattinson! | 0:22:02 | 0:22:05 | |
# We are the champions We are the champions | 0:22:05 | 0:22:12 | |
# No time for losers... # | 0:22:12 | 0:22:16 | |
Tommy, Michaela! Come on! | 0:22:16 | 0:22:20 | |
# ..of the world. # | 0:22:21 | 0:22:26 | |
My next stop is St Bees, | 0:22:30 | 0:22:32 | |
a coastal village on the western edge of Cumbria. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:35 | |
St Bees Head is a red sandstone bluff that forms a dramatic natural | 0:22:35 | 0:22:39 | |
feature on this coastline, but it's not the sandstone I'm here for. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:43 | |
I'm heading for the Benedictine Priory to find out about an incredible discovery. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:47 | |
I'm meeting Ian McAndrew, a retired GP, who back in 1981, was involved | 0:22:50 | 0:22:55 | |
in an archaeological dig that turned up something rather extraordinary, | 0:22:55 | 0:23:00 | |
known as the St Bees Man. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:01 | |
So these are the parts of the St Bees Man that were buried with him. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:09 | |
Yes. I mean, this case was put here by the Beacon Museum, | 0:23:09 | 0:23:12 | |
so it has some of the artefacts that were left over from that dig. | 0:23:12 | 0:23:17 | |
The body on the inside was wrapped in that shroud, which, as you can see, | 0:23:17 | 0:23:21 | |
was impregnated with some sort of resinous material. | 0:23:21 | 0:23:24 | |
And then the whole thing was wrapped up like a parcel, using this string that you see down here. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:29 | |
The body itself has been prepared in the way that anybody is, after death. | 0:23:29 | 0:23:34 | |
The body has been packed with that wadding you can see over there. | 0:23:34 | 0:23:38 | |
So into his mouth and that would have preserved him that way. | 0:23:38 | 0:23:41 | |
Yes. But there'd be nothing actually done to preserve the body | 0:23:41 | 0:23:44 | |
-in the way the Egyptian mummies were, for example. -Right. | 0:23:44 | 0:23:47 | |
The intriguing was this hair, which was wrapped round his neck | 0:23:47 | 0:23:50 | |
-and tied round...loosely round his neck. -How bizarre. What was that? | 0:23:50 | 0:23:54 | |
Well, it's female hair, at least it appears to be female hair, | 0:23:54 | 0:23:57 | |
so it's assumed it'd be his wife or at least the skeleton that was in the vault beside him. | 0:23:57 | 0:24:02 | |
The subsequent investigation showed that, in fact, it wasn't, so whose hair it was, we don't know. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:06 | |
And speaking of how well it was preserved, | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
when the autopsy was done on St Bees Man, he was in remarkably good condition. | 0:24:09 | 0:24:13 | |
He was. I mean, every organ was still recognisable | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
and, more astonishingly, the internal structures of the organs, | 0:24:17 | 0:24:21 | |
for example, the internal part of the heart, the valves, | 0:24:21 | 0:24:24 | |
the little muscles that are attached to the heart valves... they were all recognisable. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:28 | |
-We're probably talking about 500, 600, 700 years old. -Extraordinary. | 0:24:28 | 0:24:32 | |
And there was liquid blood in the chest cavity. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:34 | |
He was found to have several fractured ribs on the right-hand side. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:39 | |
Everything was consistent with him having met a violent death, | 0:24:39 | 0:24:42 | |
whether it was in battle or falling off a horse or jousting, | 0:24:42 | 0:24:44 | |
we don't know, because we don't know who he was. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:47 | |
The whole village turned out to attend the exhumation of the St Bees Man. | 0:24:47 | 0:24:50 | |
The lead coffin was dug up and the shrouded body sent off for autopsy. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:54 | |
Test results revealed he was a man aged about 40, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:57 | |
buried some time between 1290 and 1500. | 0:24:57 | 0:25:01 | |
The location of the vault implies he was a person of some importance. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:05 | |
-This whole area was the area that was excavated. -Yes. | 0:25:05 | 0:25:09 | |
And roughly in this sort of area is where the vault was found | 0:25:09 | 0:25:12 | |
and St Bees Man was in that vault. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:15 | |
And after the autopsy, he was brought back here and this is where he was reburied. | 0:25:17 | 0:25:20 | |
-Were there many people at the service? -Yes. A lot of the villagers who had been involved | 0:25:20 | 0:25:24 | |
in original dig came back to see him. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:27 | |
And were there any particular preservation methods used this time around? | 0:25:27 | 0:25:31 | |
No. He was effectively put back into the coffin, | 0:25:31 | 0:25:34 | |
the lead coffin that he was found in, | 0:25:34 | 0:25:36 | |
wrapped up in a sheet and placed back in that, | 0:25:36 | 0:25:39 | |
but nothing more was done to preserve the body other than that. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:41 | |
Is there any chance that St Bees Man will be re-excavated for future investigation? | 0:25:41 | 0:25:46 | |
We'll have to wait and see. It would be interesting if he was, | 0:25:46 | 0:25:49 | |
because with modern scientific techniques, things have moved on | 0:25:49 | 0:25:52 | |
considerably in the last 25 years, so maybe more information, | 0:25:52 | 0:25:56 | |
but we'll have to wait and see. There's no real talk about that at the moment. | 0:25:56 | 0:25:59 | |
'St Bees is also the starting point for one of Britain's most famous walks - the Coast to Coast. | 0:25:59 | 0:26:06 | |
'It was devised by the patron saint of fell-walking, Alfred Wainwright, and it begins here at St Bees | 0:26:06 | 0:26:12 | |
'and finishes about 200 miles away on the east coast. | 0:26:12 | 0:26:16 | |
'Wainwright recommends that walkers dip their booted feet in the Irish Sea at St Bees | 0:26:18 | 0:26:23 | |
'and at the end of the walk, dip their naked feet in the North Sea at Robin Hood's Bay.' | 0:26:23 | 0:26:28 | |
Wainwright devised the Coast to Coast path in the 1970s. | 0:26:28 | 0:26:32 | |
He'd already become famous for creating and cataloguing paths | 0:26:32 | 0:26:35 | |
right across the Cumbrian Fells, but as the land use changed, so the paths became outmoded. | 0:26:35 | 0:26:41 | |
However, the passion for Wainwright is such | 0:26:41 | 0:26:43 | |
that one man took up the challenge to update a lifetime's work, as Adam Henson discovered in 2005. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:50 | |
It's not hard to see why every year, thousands of people flock to the Lake District. | 0:26:50 | 0:26:54 | |
For many that take to the fells, there's been one set of guides | 0:26:54 | 0:26:57 | |
that capture the beauty of the area better than most. | 0:26:57 | 0:27:00 | |
It was in 1955 that Alfred Wainwright's | 0:27:00 | 0:27:03 | |
Pictorial Guides To The Lakeland Fells was published. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:07 | |
The legendary seven-book series by Wainwright was famous for its accuracy and attention to detail. | 0:27:07 | 0:27:13 | |
The originals were printed in the author's neat hand lettering | 0:27:13 | 0:27:17 | |
and illustrated with hand-drawn maps and black ink sketches. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:21 | |
It wasn't just the adventurous that followed the routes, but the quirky anecdotes | 0:27:21 | 0:27:25 | |
throughout the guides mean that many read the books simply for pleasure. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:29 | |
Wainwright was usually happier with his own company, but one man who did know him is broadcaster Eric Robson, | 0:27:30 | 0:27:36 | |
now President of the Alfred Wainwright Society. | 0:27:36 | 0:27:38 | |
In the early days, you know, there were sightings of Wainwright, | 0:27:38 | 0:27:42 | |
but by the time the sighting happened, he was away at another bit of the fells doing another book. | 0:27:42 | 0:27:46 | |
He was a kind, generous man, a very gentle man. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:49 | |
He did like his own company. | 0:27:49 | 0:27:51 | |
He liked to savour the hills on his own. | 0:27:51 | 0:27:54 | |
The one mistake that Wainwright made was actually calling them guides. | 0:27:54 | 0:27:58 | |
They're far more than that. They were totally rounded pieces of work. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:01 | |
They were poetry, philosophy, conversations between man and mountain. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
I mean, he made these mountains understandable to people. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:08 | |
People who before Wainwright would stand at the bottom | 0:28:08 | 0:28:11 | |
of these mountains and look up and think, "I can't do that," | 0:28:11 | 0:28:14 | |
they would look at his Pictorial Guides and realise they could. | 0:28:14 | 0:28:18 | |
Changes in technology, fashion and the landscape of the fells | 0:28:18 | 0:28:21 | |
meant that many of Wainwright's guides became out of date. | 0:28:21 | 0:28:23 | |
Since his death in 1991, fences have appeared, | 0:28:23 | 0:28:26 | |
stone walls have fallen down, and paths have been diverted. | 0:28:26 | 0:28:30 | |
The guides, once famous for their accuracy, have become obsolete - | 0:28:30 | 0:28:33 | |
until Chris Jesty took up the challenge of revising them. | 0:28:33 | 0:28:37 | |
So what gave you the inspiration to take on upgrading Wainwright's guides? | 0:28:37 | 0:28:42 | |
Well, I wanted them to be useful, practical guides, | 0:28:42 | 0:28:45 | |
which is what they were when they were first brought out. | 0:28:45 | 0:28:48 | |
And as I say, they will always be enjoyable to read and people | 0:28:48 | 0:28:51 | |
will always get pleasure from them. But that's not enough. | 0:28:51 | 0:28:55 | |
Did you have problems getting permission to take it on? | 0:28:55 | 0:28:57 | |
Well, he didn't want it done in his lifetime, but he did say, just before he died, | 0:28:57 | 0:29:01 | |
if ever they would be revised, that I should be invited to do it. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:05 | |
It's an enormous amount of hard work. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:07 | |
It's not just the thinking - there's so much planning | 0:29:07 | 0:29:09 | |
to get all the text to fit the space of the original text. | 0:29:09 | 0:29:14 | |
How much time does this take up? | 0:29:14 | 0:29:16 | |
Do you have to be completely committed? | 0:29:16 | 0:29:18 | |
I couldn't have done it if I hadn't been. | 0:29:18 | 0:29:20 | |
I put everything else aside. I don't have any other interests. | 0:29:20 | 0:29:23 | |
I don't have any friends. I don't do anything. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:26 | |
All my time and energy is devoted to this one thing. | 0:29:26 | 0:29:28 | |
'Using GPS mapping techniques, Chris has spent the last two years | 0:29:28 | 0:29:33 | |
'updating the first guide in the series. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:35 | |
'That's a lot of walking and a lot of graph paper.' | 0:29:35 | 0:29:38 | |
The reason I brought you here is that this is one of the areas | 0:29:38 | 0:29:41 | |
where there have been more changes than usual, because this | 0:29:41 | 0:29:44 | |
whole area now is a network of paths, none of which were shown on the maps | 0:29:44 | 0:29:48 | |
in the original book. And I had to | 0:29:48 | 0:29:50 | |
spend a lot of time in this area, walking all these paths | 0:29:50 | 0:29:54 | |
and surveying them, using this satellite navigation equipment here. | 0:29:54 | 0:29:59 | |
And every few yards, I take these readings and plot them on the graph paper, and from that, | 0:29:59 | 0:30:03 | |
they'll be transferred, eventually, on to this pencil draft, | 0:30:03 | 0:30:08 | |
from which the final drawings were taken. | 0:30:08 | 0:30:10 | |
So you've got a lot of modern equipment and help | 0:30:10 | 0:30:13 | |
-that Wainwright wouldn't have had. -That's right. No. | 0:30:13 | 0:30:16 | |
I think he did it rather by eye. Anything that wasn't | 0:30:16 | 0:30:20 | |
on the Ordnance Survey map, he just looked at it and... | 0:30:20 | 0:30:22 | |
I really don't know what his technique was, | 0:30:22 | 0:30:26 | |
but he produced a very good job of it. | 0:30:26 | 0:30:28 | |
And he used to get around by bus, isn't that right? | 0:30:28 | 0:30:31 | |
-And you've got your car. -Well, that's incredible. | 0:30:31 | 0:30:33 | |
I couldn't do it by bus. I don't see how he could have. | 0:30:33 | 0:30:36 | |
How do you get to Wasdale Head by six o'clock in the morning by bus? | 0:30:36 | 0:30:39 | |
I mean, it's just impossible! | 0:30:39 | 0:30:42 | |
And you sound like you're a very particular person. | 0:30:42 | 0:30:44 | |
-You really like to get it right. -There's two reasons for that. | 0:30:44 | 0:30:48 | |
One, because I'm just like that and I can't do anything any other way, | 0:30:48 | 0:30:51 | |
but also, because Wainwright was like that and he set the standards, | 0:30:51 | 0:30:56 | |
so my job is to keep up with them. | 0:30:56 | 0:30:58 | |
'Whatever Wainwright would have made of the revisions, | 0:30:58 | 0:31:01 | |
'he would have had to admire Chris Jesty's commitment to the task. | 0:31:01 | 0:31:05 | |
'Wainwright himself was often described as obsessive | 0:31:05 | 0:31:08 | |
'about his work and the landscape of the Lake District.' | 0:31:08 | 0:31:11 | |
I don't think Wainwright would have had a problem with these upgrades - | 0:31:11 | 0:31:14 | |
so long as he'd get home for his fish and chips, to watch Coronation Street | 0:31:14 | 0:31:18 | |
and find out what Blackburn Rovers' score was. | 0:31:18 | 0:31:21 | |
"Let me make a plea for the exhilarating hills that form the subject of this book. | 0:31:21 | 0:31:26 | |
"They should not remain neglected. | 0:31:26 | 0:31:28 | |
"To walk upon them, to tramp the ridges, to look from their tops | 0:31:28 | 0:31:31 | |
"across miles of glorious country is constant delight." | 0:31:31 | 0:31:35 | |
So, thankfully, the legacy of Wainwright's guides look set to be preserved through | 0:31:35 | 0:31:40 | |
the hard work of Chris Jesty, a man just as passionate and committed | 0:31:40 | 0:31:44 | |
about preserving and recording | 0:31:44 | 0:31:46 | |
the beauty of the Lake District as the original author. | 0:31:46 | 0:31:50 | |
I've done a few miles along the coast path, which is enough to whet my appetite, | 0:31:54 | 0:31:58 | |
but if I wanted to reach the very other end of the path, I'd need far more time than I have. | 0:31:58 | 0:32:03 | |
And anyway, I've got a lot more stories to tell here at Cumbria. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:06 | |
My journey so far, in West Cumbria, has taken me from the Eskdale Valley | 0:32:06 | 0:32:11 | |
up the coastal railway line to St Bees, | 0:32:11 | 0:32:14 | |
and through the fells, towards Borrowdale. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:17 | |
The landscape here is classic Lakeland Fells. If you look closely, | 0:32:20 | 0:32:25 | |
you'll see a breed of sheep unique | 0:32:25 | 0:32:27 | |
to this part of the world, carefully tended by farmers like Joseph Ralph. | 0:32:27 | 0:32:32 | |
Joseph, this landscape is breathtaking. | 0:32:33 | 0:32:36 | |
-It's just so beautiful. -It's unbelievable, isn't it? | 0:32:36 | 0:32:39 | |
Absolutely. The sheep are a really important part of the landscape. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:43 | |
The sheep are the guardians of the Lake District, definitely, and they've been here for so long. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:49 | |
They first came here with the monks, originally. | 0:32:49 | 0:32:52 | |
And they're what form the landscape that we see now. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:55 | |
Absolutely. Yeah. Yeah. | 0:32:55 | 0:32:56 | |
And that's what we're fighting to explain to people now. | 0:32:56 | 0:33:01 | |
That's what's made this landscape. | 0:33:01 | 0:33:03 | |
It isn't the farmers, it's the sheep. | 0:33:03 | 0:33:05 | |
-So are these your Herdwicks, behind us? -Yes. These are a few of them. | 0:33:05 | 0:33:08 | |
-Yeah. -Fantastic. | 0:33:08 | 0:33:10 | |
What makes a Herdwick different from most sheep that people see? | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
Well, they're so hardy. | 0:33:13 | 0:33:15 | |
They can stand extreme conditions on the fells. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:20 | |
They stay out there most of the winter. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:23 | |
-Do they? -Yeah. | 0:33:23 | 0:33:25 | |
'Joseph's flock are flourishing now, | 0:33:25 | 0:33:27 | |
'but it was a different picture back in 2001, when the Herdwick | 0:33:27 | 0:33:30 | |
'population were under serious threat from foot and mouth. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:34 | |
'John Craven reported at the height of the crisis.' | 0:33:34 | 0:33:37 | |
These sheep have survived the foot and mouth epidemic in Cumbria, | 0:33:37 | 0:33:41 | |
unlike one third of their breed. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:43 | |
They're Herdwicks, unique to the Lake District | 0:33:43 | 0:33:46 | |
and trained over many generations to graze specific areas | 0:33:46 | 0:33:50 | |
of fell, without the need for fencing or shepherds. | 0:33:50 | 0:33:53 | |
But because they've been so badly hit by this crisis, | 0:33:53 | 0:33:56 | |
the character of the fells that they roam could be changed forever. | 0:33:56 | 0:34:00 | |
Herdwicks have been on the fells for centuries and today, | 0:34:13 | 0:34:16 | |
they're as close as domesticated sheep can be to being wild. | 0:34:16 | 0:34:19 | |
99% of the world population of Herdwick sheep | 0:34:22 | 0:34:25 | |
is probably within 30 miles of this place. | 0:34:25 | 0:34:28 | |
It's unique to the Central and Western Lake District. | 0:34:28 | 0:34:31 | |
It's not like any other breed of British sheep. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:35 | |
As you can see, the lambs are born black. | 0:34:35 | 0:34:37 | |
As they get older, they go grey. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:39 | |
They are regarded as the hardiest breed of sheep in the country. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:43 | |
We've got the highest rainfall in England here, the roughest terrain. | 0:34:43 | 0:34:48 | |
They're made for the job. | 0:34:48 | 0:34:49 | |
At the moment, they're still being held in lowland pastures | 0:34:49 | 0:34:52 | |
but Ministry of Agriculture regulations on animal movements have | 0:34:52 | 0:34:57 | |
just been relaxed on fell sheep, and in a few days' time, | 0:34:57 | 0:34:59 | |
they'll be back on the mountains. | 0:34:59 | 0:35:01 | |
Lambs are taught by their mothers not to stray beyond | 0:35:01 | 0:35:04 | |
the invisible boundaries of their own grazing areas, known as heafs. | 0:35:04 | 0:35:08 | |
With foot and mouth, some farmers lost almost all their flocks, | 0:35:08 | 0:35:12 | |
and now they're in danger of losing their ancient heafs, as well. | 0:35:12 | 0:35:16 | |
There are great difficulties on some of the valleys where the farmers have lost most of their sheep, | 0:35:16 | 0:35:22 | |
and they will need a lot of help, and not just for five years, possibly for ten years. | 0:35:22 | 0:35:27 | |
The sheep from other heafs will drop in. | 0:35:27 | 0:35:30 | |
People have said, you know, it happened in '47. | 0:35:30 | 0:35:34 | |
It was a bad winter and a lot of sheep were killed, but it was | 0:35:34 | 0:35:38 | |
an even cull, an even balance and they went back as an even balance. | 0:35:38 | 0:35:42 | |
In days gone by, flocks were closely watched by shepherds, | 0:35:42 | 0:35:46 | |
who looked for signs of parasites and taught animals where to graze. | 0:35:46 | 0:35:51 | |
But modern sheep dips made many shepherds redundant. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:54 | |
Now, for the first time in 50 years, more may have to be recruited | 0:35:54 | 0:35:58 | |
to help a new generation of sheep re-establish the heafs. | 0:35:58 | 0:36:02 | |
Some people are going to have to start from virtual zero, | 0:36:02 | 0:36:06 | |
so some Herdwick lambs are going to have | 0:36:06 | 0:36:09 | |
to be born this time next year on some of these farms. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:13 | |
Because their mothers won't know where the heaf is, | 0:36:13 | 0:36:16 | |
they're going to have to be heafed through shepherding. | 0:36:16 | 0:36:19 | |
Young female sheep at a year old will have to be | 0:36:19 | 0:36:23 | |
taken to the fell every day and shown where their heaf is. | 0:36:23 | 0:36:27 | |
The immediate priority, though, | 0:36:27 | 0:36:29 | |
is to make sure there are enough Herdwicks to breed from. | 0:36:29 | 0:36:32 | |
This farmer has already lost part of his flock | 0:36:32 | 0:36:35 | |
and could be told at any time that the rest must be culled. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:37 | |
He's getting a fresh stock of liquid nitrogen, | 0:36:37 | 0:36:41 | |
to keep frozen sperm from his rams. | 0:36:41 | 0:36:43 | |
It's part of an emergency project that's set up a gene bank | 0:36:43 | 0:36:46 | |
for Herdwicks with the co-operation of many farmers. | 0:36:46 | 0:36:49 | |
OK. And in each of these little vessels here, | 0:36:49 | 0:36:53 | |
we've collected semen from rams on his farm, frozen it | 0:36:53 | 0:36:57 | |
and put it inside this liquid nitrogen container. | 0:36:57 | 0:37:00 | |
And to all intents and purposes, | 0:37:00 | 0:37:03 | |
that semen or embryos that we might have collected | 0:37:03 | 0:37:06 | |
can remain in these tanks, provided it's topped up, for 1,500 years. | 0:37:06 | 0:37:10 | |
But how can you be sure that the semen and the embryos don't have foot and mouth? | 0:37:10 | 0:37:14 | |
Well, each individual ram that donates semen | 0:37:14 | 0:37:17 | |
and each individual ewe that donates embryos, they are | 0:37:17 | 0:37:20 | |
blood tested and the sample is sent off to the laboratory and, so far, | 0:37:20 | 0:37:24 | |
all of them have come back negative. | 0:37:24 | 0:37:26 | |
Already, thousands of doses of semen and 300 embryos have been collected | 0:37:26 | 0:37:31 | |
from Herdwick farms, so the breed is now much more secure. | 0:37:31 | 0:37:35 | |
This is wonderful technology, and we're very grateful | 0:37:35 | 0:37:39 | |
for that technology to give us that assurance that we do have something | 0:37:39 | 0:37:44 | |
left in the event of a total cull. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:46 | |
Because they've been around for so long, fell sheep have played | 0:37:46 | 0:37:50 | |
a vital part in shaping the very look of Lakeland. | 0:37:50 | 0:37:54 | |
But there are those who say that the fells have been | 0:37:54 | 0:37:57 | |
overgrazed for years, that too many sheep have destroyed | 0:37:57 | 0:38:00 | |
the original patchwork of vegetation and wildlife habitats. | 0:38:00 | 0:38:04 | |
And with sheep numbers drastically reduced because of foot and mouth, | 0:38:04 | 0:38:08 | |
now is the time to make changes. | 0:38:08 | 0:38:10 | |
'English Nature, the government's conservation advisors, | 0:38:10 | 0:38:13 | |
'want the heaf system to stay, | 0:38:13 | 0:38:15 | |
'but think farmers should be encouraged financially | 0:38:15 | 0:38:18 | |
'to keep fewer animals out on the hills.' | 0:38:18 | 0:38:20 | |
Every fell should look a bit different - | 0:38:20 | 0:38:22 | |
variety is the spice of life in the Lake District. | 0:38:22 | 0:38:25 | |
We have different situations and different valleys, | 0:38:25 | 0:38:27 | |
but I suppose the situation behind me is actually rather good | 0:38:27 | 0:38:31 | |
conservation-wise, because towards the valley bottom | 0:38:31 | 0:38:34 | |
we actually have tree cover, we have scattered trees and scrub | 0:38:34 | 0:38:37 | |
as you go a little bit higher up, and then beyond the fell wall, | 0:38:37 | 0:38:41 | |
you actually get the more open fell. | 0:38:41 | 0:38:43 | |
Unfortunately, for conservationists, that's where things begin to go wrong | 0:38:43 | 0:38:47 | |
because that fell is a bit overgrazed, | 0:38:47 | 0:38:50 | |
in the sense that there's not enough variety there, | 0:38:50 | 0:38:52 | |
and if one had a variety of grazing pressure maintained | 0:38:52 | 0:38:55 | |
by a low-density hefting system, then that would be more diverse. | 0:38:55 | 0:38:59 | |
Hefted sheep grazing in the hills is a beneficial thing in general. | 0:38:59 | 0:39:02 | |
They may argue about the quantity of them in some places, | 0:39:02 | 0:39:06 | |
but we think that argument's been established. | 0:39:06 | 0:39:09 | |
This is a working landscape based on sheep grazing. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:12 | |
There is a fantastic interest in Herdwick sheep. | 0:39:12 | 0:39:14 | |
They have created the landscape that you see | 0:39:14 | 0:39:18 | |
and they will be the animals that will look after it in the future. | 0:39:18 | 0:39:22 | |
The crisis for Herdwicks is far from over. | 0:39:25 | 0:39:27 | |
Blood tests will be carried out on them this summer, | 0:39:27 | 0:39:30 | |
checking for foot and mouth. | 0:39:30 | 0:39:32 | |
Already, 30,000 have been lost out of a total of 100,000. | 0:39:32 | 0:39:35 | |
But with help from both modern science and the ancient skills of shepherding, | 0:39:35 | 0:39:40 | |
the breed should survive, as resilient as the fells it roams. | 0:39:40 | 0:39:45 | |
So during foot and mouth, was your whole flock in danger of dying out, basically? | 0:39:51 | 0:39:56 | |
It was, yes. We did unfortunately lose the youngest breeding sheep we had, | 0:39:56 | 0:40:03 | |
cos they had to go away for the first winter, | 0:40:03 | 0:40:05 | |
so that was a big knock. We still haven't got over it yet, actually. | 0:40:05 | 0:40:09 | |
It'll be another couple of years before we get back to where we were | 0:40:09 | 0:40:12 | |
before we had the 2001 foot and mouth. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:14 | |
How important was the gene bank at the time of the crisis? | 0:40:14 | 0:40:18 | |
The gene bank, basically, was just a last resort. | 0:40:18 | 0:40:22 | |
If all the sheep got wiped out, there was still somewhere to go | 0:40:22 | 0:40:27 | |
to have a chance of putting some back. | 0:40:27 | 0:40:29 | |
It was a last resort, really. We hoped it would never get to that. | 0:40:29 | 0:40:35 | |
It was just a case of we could have lost the whole Herdwick flocks, | 0:40:35 | 0:40:38 | |
cos nearly all the Herdwicks are in the Lake District. | 0:40:38 | 0:40:41 | |
'Analysis of the gene bank proved that the Herdwicks | 0:40:47 | 0:40:50 | |
'were even more unique to the area than had previously been thought, | 0:40:50 | 0:40:54 | |
'and now farmers such as Joseph's wife, Hazel, are using this fact | 0:40:54 | 0:40:58 | |
'to market Herdwick mutton.' | 0:40:58 | 0:41:00 | |
So, Hazel, what's your involvement with Herdwick sheep farming? | 0:41:00 | 0:41:03 | |
Well, it's a partnership - it's a farm, | 0:41:03 | 0:41:07 | |
but with a few businesses within the farm. It's not diversification, | 0:41:07 | 0:41:11 | |
it's just using the farm product to get the best out of it and give people regional food. | 0:41:11 | 0:41:16 | |
So, they're Joseph's when they're alive and when they're dead they become mine to deal with. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
So we sell Herdwick, which is the only true regional food. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:25 | |
-It's been here over 1,000 years. -So it's truly local food, then. | 0:41:25 | 0:41:29 | |
There's a lot of other products out there that claim to be local. | 0:41:29 | 0:41:33 | |
Yes, there is and, like Cumberland sausage - | 0:41:33 | 0:41:35 | |
you can get Cumberland sausage in London, in New York and everywhere. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:39 | |
It's arguable whether you should be able to or not, | 0:41:39 | 0:41:41 | |
but I like the fact that you can go to another country | 0:41:41 | 0:41:44 | |
or another county and eat the food that's to that region | 0:41:44 | 0:41:47 | |
and then your experience is different wherever you go. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:50 | |
In fact, the Herdwick Sheep Association is currently applying | 0:41:50 | 0:41:55 | |
for EU-protected designation of origin status, aiming to join a list | 0:41:55 | 0:41:59 | |
which includes champagne, gorgonzola and Jersey Royal potatoes. | 0:41:59 | 0:42:03 | |
But what does Herdwick meat taste like? | 0:42:03 | 0:42:05 | |
Yummy. Wow. What have we got here? | 0:42:07 | 0:42:11 | |
Well, Herdwick stew. | 0:42:11 | 0:42:13 | |
It's just fresh vegetables, a truly regional product. | 0:42:13 | 0:42:17 | |
-Wonderful. -My sister-in-law makes it and the cheese and chive homemade toasted scones. | 0:42:17 | 0:42:22 | |
So, it's like venison. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:24 | |
It looks like venison because it eats the same at the fell and it doesn't look like lamb. | 0:42:24 | 0:42:30 | |
We never call it lamb. It's sheep meat, because it's not the age of a lamb. | 0:42:30 | 0:42:34 | |
It's sort of between lamb and mutton. And it doesn't taste greasy, either. | 0:42:34 | 0:42:38 | |
It tastes amazing...even after... | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
-excuse me, INAUDIBLE. -It's lovely. I love it. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:44 | |
After a dark chapter for sheep farmers in the fells, | 0:42:44 | 0:42:47 | |
it's fantastic to see the healthy flocks again, | 0:42:47 | 0:42:50 | |
and although arguments continue about just how free | 0:42:50 | 0:42:53 | |
Herdwicks should be allowed to roam, no-one can doubt that it's good news | 0:42:53 | 0:42:57 | |
that the breed looks safe again. | 0:42:57 | 0:42:59 | |
My journey through the Cumbrian fells continues. | 0:43:01 | 0:43:04 | |
As well as being home to the Herdwick sheep, | 0:43:04 | 0:43:08 | |
this spectacular landscape hosts a unique canine event | 0:43:08 | 0:43:11 | |
called Hound Trailing. Ben Fogle investigated. | 0:43:11 | 0:43:14 | |
# You ain't nothing but a hound dog... # | 0:43:15 | 0:43:18 | |
-Right. Who is this? -This is Wes Garth. | 0:43:18 | 0:43:22 | |
-And Wes Garth is taking part in hound trailing, later? -Yeah. | 0:43:22 | 0:43:25 | |
Right. Now, what is hound trailing? | 0:43:25 | 0:43:28 | |
The hounds race over a course. | 0:43:28 | 0:43:30 | |
Two people going to a trail on the fell. | 0:43:30 | 0:43:33 | |
-A kind of trail of scent? -Yes. | 0:43:33 | 0:43:35 | |
It's aniseed and paraffin mixed. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:37 | |
And they race round the trail. | 0:43:37 | 0:43:38 | |
-The first back's the winner. -Does he enjoy it? | 0:43:38 | 0:43:41 | |
Oh, yes. He loves it. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:42 | |
Yeah. He'll scream and shout. If he didn't enjoy it, he wouldn't go. | 0:43:42 | 0:43:46 | |
The trail field is right in the heart of the Cumbrian fells. | 0:43:46 | 0:43:50 | |
Hound trailing started over 200 years ago, when hunt hounds were used | 0:43:50 | 0:43:54 | |
while resting during their off season and owners would bet on whose hound would be first home. | 0:43:54 | 0:44:00 | |
Today, these hounds are bred purely for this traditional sport. | 0:44:00 | 0:44:03 | |
There are five races or trails in the day and each dog runs in its own category. | 0:44:03 | 0:44:08 | |
These are the seniors being sent on their way. | 0:44:08 | 0:44:12 | |
-# Who let the dogs out? -Who, who, who, who? | 0:44:13 | 0:44:17 | |
-# Who let the dogs out? -Who, who, who, who? | 0:44:17 | 0:44:20 | |
# Who let the dogs out? # | 0:44:20 | 0:44:22 | |
-You set the trail. -Yeah. -What's the course looking like? | 0:44:22 | 0:44:25 | |
-Good. -Yeah? -Spot on. Yeah. | 0:44:25 | 0:44:28 | |
'There are 12 bookmakers on site, | 0:44:28 | 0:44:30 | |
'all eager to relieve the punters of their cash.' | 0:44:30 | 0:44:34 | |
Who did you go for? | 0:44:34 | 0:44:36 | |
-What Next. -What Next. What is it you like so much about this event? | 0:44:36 | 0:44:41 | |
Well, you know, you get out in the countryside... | 0:44:41 | 0:44:45 | |
see a lot of good people. | 0:44:45 | 0:44:47 | |
-It's very social. -Right, then. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:50 | |
£2 on Wes Garth. | 0:44:50 | 0:44:51 | |
-OK, now. 873, the ticket. -My lucky ticket. -OK. Thank you. | 0:44:51 | 0:44:56 | |
How's Wes Garth doing? He's in front! | 0:45:00 | 0:45:03 | |
Yes! We better get down to the finish, or they're going to beat us to it! | 0:45:03 | 0:45:07 | |
No. No. No. There's plenty of time. Plenty of time. | 0:45:07 | 0:45:11 | |
And Wes Garth lollops in last. | 0:45:16 | 0:45:20 | |
'Or maybe not quite last.' | 0:45:20 | 0:45:24 | |
-Hi, there. -Hello. | 0:45:24 | 0:45:27 | |
-Who are you looking for? -A Million. | 0:45:27 | 0:45:29 | |
And any sign yet? | 0:45:29 | 0:45:30 | |
No! | 0:45:30 | 0:45:32 | |
So, pretty much everyone's gone now. | 0:45:32 | 0:45:36 | |
Where's A Million gone?! | 0:45:36 | 0:45:38 | |
I'm glad I didn't put my bet on that one! | 0:45:38 | 0:45:42 | |
And you've got a bribe of food, there. | 0:45:43 | 0:45:47 | |
-Can I have a look at that, actually? Is this what they get? -Yeah. | 0:45:47 | 0:45:50 | |
What is it? Chocolate cake? | 0:45:50 | 0:45:52 | |
Is it? Cor! | 0:45:52 | 0:45:55 | |
And he hasn't come back for that! | 0:45:55 | 0:45:57 | |
My dog wouldn't have left in the first place if she knew she was getting that. | 0:45:57 | 0:46:01 | |
Well, this is the last and largest race of the day. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:06 | |
There are 47 dogs taking part and, as you can hear, there is a lot of excitement. | 0:46:06 | 0:46:10 | |
LOUD BARKING | 0:46:10 | 0:46:13 | |
-# Who let the dogs out? -Who, who, who, who? | 0:46:14 | 0:46:18 | |
-# Who let the dogs out? -Who, who, who, who? | 0:46:18 | 0:46:22 | |
-# Who let the dogs out? -Who, who, who, who? # | 0:46:22 | 0:46:25 | |
-Is this A Million? -Yeah. | 0:46:25 | 0:46:27 | |
-Is that a relief? -Yeah. -So how long's she been off for now? | 0:46:27 | 0:46:30 | |
About two and a half hours. | 0:46:30 | 0:46:32 | |
Million, welcome home. | 0:46:32 | 0:46:34 | |
Well, what a brilliant sport. | 0:46:35 | 0:46:38 | |
People love it. The dogs love it. The only problem is, | 0:46:38 | 0:46:41 | |
I think the bookies are the only ones that actually make anything out of it. | 0:46:41 | 0:46:45 | |
That's another loss. | 0:46:45 | 0:46:47 | |
The Cumbrian hills, providing a challenge for dogs and Ben's pocket. | 0:46:47 | 0:46:51 | |
I'm on the last leg of my journey and on the way to meet a man | 0:46:51 | 0:46:56 | |
who not only works at altitude but travels to work at altitude. | 0:46:56 | 0:47:00 | |
I started off travelling through the Eskdale Valley in style today, | 0:47:00 | 0:47:04 | |
and then headed up the coastal railway line to hear about | 0:47:04 | 0:47:07 | |
an eery discovery at St Bees. | 0:47:07 | 0:47:09 | |
I then journeyed back inland where the future looks promising | 0:47:09 | 0:47:12 | |
for the Herdwick sheep of Borrowdale Fells. | 0:47:12 | 0:47:15 | |
'My final stop today is on the Honister Pass | 0:47:15 | 0:47:17 | |
'at the Honister Slate Mine.' | 0:47:17 | 0:47:19 | |
So far, in Cumbria, we've seen gurners and liars, | 0:47:19 | 0:47:23 | |
but there's another eccentric I'm about to meet, | 0:47:23 | 0:47:25 | |
with an unusual way of getting to work. | 0:47:25 | 0:47:28 | |
So, Mark, it's an unusual way of getting to work, isn't it? | 0:47:41 | 0:47:44 | |
It is. Exciting, isn't it? | 0:47:44 | 0:47:45 | |
Why do you use a helicopter to come this way? | 0:47:45 | 0:47:48 | |
Well, everybody has a humdrum life | 0:47:48 | 0:47:50 | |
every day and I like to start on a high and finish on a high. | 0:47:50 | 0:47:53 | |
Honister is a slate mine cut deep into the Cumbrian mountainside, | 0:47:53 | 0:47:56 | |
producing both traditional and more novel products for this important local resource. | 0:47:56 | 0:48:02 | |
Mark Weir took over the mine in 1996. | 0:48:02 | 0:48:04 | |
So how did you come to having a slate mine? | 0:48:04 | 0:48:07 | |
My grandfather worked here and he split the slates. | 0:48:07 | 0:48:12 | |
-OK. -And he never ever talked about this place, but once | 0:48:12 | 0:48:16 | |
I flew him over in a helicopter and he just said why is it closed? | 0:48:16 | 0:48:20 | |
Never said, "Go and buy it," but just, "Why is it closed?" | 0:48:20 | 0:48:23 | |
So I got my PA on to it and found out who owned it, | 0:48:23 | 0:48:26 | |
offered to buy it, and we're standing here, now. | 0:48:26 | 0:48:30 | |
The mine is open for specially guided tours. | 0:48:30 | 0:48:33 | |
Mark was on hand to guide Miriam O'Reilly around its upper slopes | 0:48:33 | 0:48:37 | |
when she visited for Country File. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:39 | |
This may not seem like the most obvious place to go for a walk, | 0:48:39 | 0:48:42 | |
but this old railway line which was once used by miners is the start | 0:48:42 | 0:48:46 | |
of Britain's first via ferrata, which is Italian for iron road. | 0:48:46 | 0:48:50 | |
It's pretty steep in places, | 0:48:50 | 0:48:52 | |
so, if I'm going to do it, I'm going to need metal. | 0:48:52 | 0:48:55 | |
That's because walkers taking this dramatic path | 0:48:56 | 0:48:59 | |
up the mountain have cables, handrails and bridges | 0:48:59 | 0:49:02 | |
to help them over the more treacherous rock faces. | 0:49:02 | 0:49:05 | |
This is just the first stage of the via ferrata, but already, | 0:49:09 | 0:49:13 | |
the view is enough to take your breath away. | 0:49:13 | 0:49:15 | |
The metal structures on Honister Crag were left over | 0:49:15 | 0:49:19 | |
from an old Victorian slate miners' route. | 0:49:19 | 0:49:21 | |
More usually found in the Dolomites, in the Italian Alps, | 0:49:21 | 0:49:25 | |
this via ferrata, in the Lake District, | 0:49:25 | 0:49:27 | |
runs around four kilometres, | 0:49:27 | 0:49:29 | |
from the lowest mines to the top of the crag, | 0:49:29 | 0:49:31 | |
at more than 2,000 feet high. | 0:49:31 | 0:49:34 | |
The mine, which is between the Buttermere and Borrowdale valleys, was shut down in the 1980s. | 0:49:34 | 0:49:39 | |
Ten years ago, it reopened again | 0:49:39 | 0:49:42 | |
and is back producing its famous green slate. | 0:49:42 | 0:49:45 | |
Tourists can also see the work going on inside the hillside. | 0:49:45 | 0:49:48 | |
I'm deep underground, but it's really just a short walk in | 0:49:48 | 0:49:52 | |
to the mountain, away from the walkers. | 0:49:52 | 0:49:55 | |
The miners here are hard at work, and this really is hard labour. | 0:49:55 | 0:49:58 | |
About 10-15 tons of slate is taken out of this mine every day. | 0:49:58 | 0:50:02 | |
In one ton of best slate, you'd pay £2,000, £2,500 for that. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:12 | |
How do you mine now, compared with how they mined generations ago? | 0:50:12 | 0:50:16 | |
It's a lot easier now. You've got machinery like the digger, | 0:50:16 | 0:50:20 | |
compressed air drills where they used hand drills with hammers. | 0:50:20 | 0:50:24 | |
It's a lot easier. I think Honister's slate is the best in England, the world, even. | 0:50:24 | 0:50:29 | |
It's just a lot stronger. It lasts a lot longer. | 0:50:29 | 0:50:32 | |
Just better, basically. | 0:50:32 | 0:50:34 | |
At the foot of the mountain, | 0:50:34 | 0:50:36 | |
the slabs of stone are made into roof tiles. | 0:50:36 | 0:50:40 | |
Honister slate is still in demand, as it has been for centuries. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:45 | |
Further up the mountain, anyone wanting to follow | 0:50:45 | 0:50:48 | |
in the footsteps of the miners has to wear a harness, | 0:50:48 | 0:50:52 | |
clipping on and off between points of safety. | 0:50:52 | 0:50:55 | |
This is a great opportunity for the man on the street to actually witness | 0:50:55 | 0:51:00 | |
where climbers normally go under the safety of this via ferrata equipment. | 0:51:00 | 0:51:04 | |
And what they'll see, as well...is scenery that they wouldn't normally | 0:51:04 | 0:51:08 | |
-see unless they were climbing? -Absolutely. | 0:51:08 | 0:51:11 | |
-Is there more? -This is the steepest part of the climb. | 0:51:11 | 0:51:14 | |
-Thanks, Mark. I think I'll press on to the summit. -Enjoy. | 0:51:14 | 0:51:18 | |
A short walk on and you reach Fleetwith Pike at 2,126 feet high. | 0:51:23 | 0:51:29 | |
The miners may not have come this far for slate, | 0:51:29 | 0:51:32 | |
but I'm sure, like me, they came just to savour the view. | 0:51:32 | 0:51:36 | |
It's good to sit down and have a bit of a rest. | 0:51:36 | 0:51:39 | |
There's no doubt about it, it's a challenging walk, | 0:51:39 | 0:51:42 | |
but it really is worth it. | 0:51:42 | 0:51:44 | |
With every twist and turn, there's more breathtaking scenery | 0:51:44 | 0:51:47 | |
and what I really like is it's uninterrupted. | 0:51:47 | 0:51:50 | |
There are no buildings. There's nothing else. | 0:51:50 | 0:51:52 | |
I really feel that it's me here, alone with nature. | 0:51:52 | 0:51:56 | |
And just down there, you can see | 0:51:56 | 0:51:58 | |
the lakes, Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater in the distance. | 0:51:58 | 0:52:02 | |
And then the Solway Firth, and beyond that, Scotland. | 0:52:02 | 0:52:07 | |
It's the end of my Cumbrian journey, as well. | 0:52:09 | 0:52:11 | |
Just time to say goodbye to Mark before he heads up and away over the fells, homeward bound. | 0:52:11 | 0:52:17 | |
From his vantage point, the area I've travelled is laid out below. | 0:52:17 | 0:52:21 | |
A landscape dotted with the communities which have shaped it, | 0:52:21 | 0:52:24 | |
in one of Britain's most beautiful places. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:27 | |
Join us next time for more Country Tracks. | 0:52:27 | 0:52:29 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:52:42 | 0:52:45 |