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Today I begin my journey on a lifeboat, | 0:00:21 | 0:00:24 | |
here, off the north coast of Holyhead, | 0:00:24 | 0:00:26 | |
in the notoriously treacherous Irish Sea. | 0:00:26 | 0:00:29 | |
From here, I'll be heading due east across | 0:00:29 | 0:00:33 | |
one of the most beautiful parts of the British Isles, North Wales. | 0:00:33 | 0:00:38 | |
When I get back to dry land at Holyhead | 0:00:40 | 0:00:43 | |
I'll travel on to Llanfair PG then on to Capel Curig | 0:00:43 | 0:00:47 | |
in the heart of Snowdonia and I'll visit the Gwydyr Forest | 0:00:47 | 0:00:51 | |
before ending my journey at Llangollen. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:54 | |
Along the way I'll be looking back at some of the best of the BBC's rural programmes. | 0:00:54 | 0:01:00 | |
Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:01:00 | 0:01:02 | |
One of the most treacherous stretches of water around | 0:01:03 | 0:01:06 | |
the British Isles lies here, off the coast of North Wales. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:10 | |
Protecting those who set sail in these waters are the volunteers of the RNLI. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:15 | |
The lifeboat station at Holyhead has a remarkable history, with 70 awards for gallantry. | 0:01:16 | 0:01:23 | |
Today, coxswain Brian Thomson, has invited me to join them on one of their training exercises. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:28 | |
So, Brian, what are we doing today? | 0:01:31 | 0:01:33 | |
We're out here in the middle of Holyhead Bay | 0:01:33 | 0:01:36 | |
doing an exercise with our volunteer crews | 0:01:36 | 0:01:39 | |
trying to get them up to a standard to become proper lifeboat men. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:43 | |
Earlier on today, some other members of the team headed out to a secret location in the bay. | 0:01:45 | 0:01:50 | |
Rather unceremoniously, they dropped Dead Fred in the water. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:54 | |
Just to clarify, who is Dead Fred? | 0:01:57 | 0:02:00 | |
Dead Fred is a good friend of ours who we use for a man overboard, | 0:02:00 | 0:02:03 | |
we'll use him in our stretchers. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:05 | |
He's the same weight as a normal person so he is quite difficult to get out the water. | 0:02:05 | 0:02:10 | |
It teaches the guys what it's like to get a real person out the water. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:15 | |
Our job today is to find Dead Fred. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:19 | |
Even on a clear calm evening like this, it's incredibly difficult. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:23 | |
But it's vital training for the less experienced members of the team. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:27 | |
You are an RNLI volunteer, what does that encompass? | 0:02:27 | 0:02:31 | |
Well, I'm on call, as much as I can be. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
I'm not forced to be here. | 0:02:34 | 0:02:38 | |
I give up my spare time to be here to train and go out and rescue lives. | 0:02:38 | 0:02:42 | |
Do you have a pager that will suddenly go off and you have to leave everything? | 0:02:42 | 0:02:46 | |
Yes. I have a little pager that I keep on me at all times. | 0:02:46 | 0:02:49 | |
It is next to my bed at night time and the wife doesn't like it at 3am, | 0:02:49 | 0:02:54 | |
but I carry it at all times. | 0:02:54 | 0:02:57 | |
What do you do during your day job? | 0:02:57 | 0:02:58 | |
Electrical engineer. At the aluminium smelter factory. | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
Full time there. They are very sympathetic, | 0:03:02 | 0:03:05 | |
they'll help out and allow me to leave if I need to. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:08 | |
Even during the night time, I can come in a bit later on as well. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:12 | |
Today, this seems rather idyllic, really, being out flat, | 0:03:12 | 0:03:16 | |
ocean sunshine, you must go out in some terrible weather. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:19 | |
Yes, I've been out in the night time and in very rough conditions. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:23 | |
What's the longest you've been out on a rescue? | 0:03:23 | 0:03:26 | |
A five-hour search for a casualty. | 0:03:26 | 0:03:29 | |
And why do you do it? What inspires you to volunteer? | 0:03:29 | 0:03:32 | |
It's great, actually, because there is a lot of... | 0:03:32 | 0:03:35 | |
I'm into boats and it keeps you out on the boat and gives you | 0:03:35 | 0:03:39 | |
a lot of training even for my own sailing and things like that. | 0:03:39 | 0:03:43 | |
And presumably satisfaction that you are helping people? | 0:03:43 | 0:03:46 | |
-Yes, yes, absolutely. -Fantastic. | 0:03:46 | 0:03:48 | |
'An exercise like this is also a good time to practise complex navigational skills. | 0:03:48 | 0:03:54 | |
'Taking current and wind speed into account, | 0:03:54 | 0:03:56 | |
'a search plan is drawn up based on information about where Fred was last seen.' | 0:03:56 | 0:04:00 | |
Each leg of that is timed on a stopwatch. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:03 | |
Is that using the speed of the currents to estimate where he might have moved to? | 0:04:03 | 0:04:07 | |
That's right. He's drifting down the tide at about two knots | 0:04:07 | 0:04:12 | |
so we are going up and down the tide line looking for him. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:15 | |
So while I'm yakking away to you, we should be keeping an eye out. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:19 | |
Presumably this is quite a good area to spot him from a distance? | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
Absolutely. But behind us we have two of our crew who are doing just that. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:26 | |
'The mission to rescue Fred reminds me of the time I had to be | 0:04:27 | 0:04:30 | |
'rescued from some nearby islands in much less favourable conditions.' | 0:04:30 | 0:04:34 | |
I've just left Holyhead in Anglesey I'm on my way to join the Patricia, | 0:04:47 | 0:04:52 | |
a ship that's on its way to the Skerries, | 0:04:52 | 0:04:54 | |
a lighthouse perched on a rocky reef in the middle of the Irish Sea. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:59 | |
She's owned by Trinity House which looks after all the lighthouses | 0:04:59 | 0:05:03 | |
and buoys around the coast of England, Wales and the Channel Islands. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:07 | |
Get us under way, please. | 0:05:07 | 0:05:10 | |
Patricia's been patrolling the coast for just over 20 years. | 0:05:10 | 0:05:14 | |
Weather conditions moderate to rough and they are building up to be rough. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:19 | |
We've got a 30 knots wind, two-and-a-half metres of swell. | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
That's likely to build up during the day to about four metres sea. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:26 | |
Now, this is the ship's radar. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:28 | |
That is us. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:31 | |
That's the harbour wall and we are heading just out that way. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:35 | |
It's going to take about an hour to get to the lighthouse. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:40 | |
Before we get there, let me show you around | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
a rather different and a rather more luxurious side to the ship. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:48 | |
We take passengers cos we've got the accommodation | 0:05:48 | 0:05:51 | |
and luxurious cabins for them on board. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
People seem to want to come | 0:05:54 | 0:05:55 | |
and they seem to prefer coming to see a working ship, | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
the working-ship environment, | 0:05:58 | 0:06:00 | |
without the hustle and bustle of a cruise ship | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
and 2,000 to 3,000 passengers milling around all the time. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
What will they do on board? | 0:06:05 | 0:06:07 | |
They spend their time relaxing as much as they want. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:09 | |
They can visit the bridge. Walk around the passenger decks | 0:06:09 | 0:06:12 | |
and watch the general day-to-day work of the ship and the crew on board. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:16 | |
While the passengers relax, the crew prepares for a day's work. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:21 | |
Our main role is as a buoy tender for the Lighthouse Service. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:27 | |
Maintaining of the navigational marks around the coast. | 0:06:27 | 0:06:30 | |
Today we're involved with the lighthouse | 0:06:30 | 0:06:33 | |
where we are delivering building materials and fuel. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
How often does that happen? | 0:06:36 | 0:06:38 | |
Fuelling, generally every six months, | 0:06:38 | 0:06:40 | |
but we are moving away from diesel-powered lighthouses | 0:06:40 | 0:06:44 | |
and they are converting this one at the moment to solar power. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:48 | |
First thing we are going to be doing is | 0:06:48 | 0:06:50 | |
the PGO - petroleum gas oil, or diesel to everybody else, | 0:06:50 | 0:06:54 | |
we've got 5,000 litres to deliver to the lighthouse. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
How do you deliver it? | 0:06:57 | 0:06:59 | |
We deliver that in these bags. They hold 400 litres each. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:03 | |
A helicopter will come in and hover over us | 0:07:03 | 0:07:06 | |
and two people will go in and hook it on. | 0:07:06 | 0:07:08 | |
-OK. -While it's all going up and down. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:10 | |
I was going to say, it's starting to get a bit rockier on here, isn't it? | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
The lighthouse stands on a low outcrop of rock | 0:07:14 | 0:07:18 | |
directly in the path of major shipping lines between Liverpool and Ireland. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:22 | |
Many vessels have foundered here. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:25 | |
A light was first lit in 1717 and for more than a century the lighthouse was privately run, | 0:07:25 | 0:07:31 | |
paid for by the ships that had to pass the Skerries rocks safely. | 0:07:31 | 0:07:35 | |
Well, that's the last helicopter coming in. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
The last sack fuel. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:48 | |
The next cargo is going to be me. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:51 | |
Well, there she is, the lighthouse behind me. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
There to prevent any ships foundering on these dangerous rocks. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:22 | |
Just imagine what it would have been like as a lighthouse keeper | 0:08:22 | 0:08:26 | |
living on this remote, windy, isolated outcrop. | 0:08:26 | 0:08:29 | |
Personally, I think it would have been absolutely amazing. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:33 | |
But it must have been quite lonely as well. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
Solar power is the future, | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
but the first light was just a coal grate and then it was oil powered. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:42 | |
So, in the past, the light had to be continuously manned. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:45 | |
Not a life to suit everyone. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:47 | |
I certainly enjoyed it. | 0:08:47 | 0:08:48 | |
There is one thing of course, obviously you missed your family. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:53 | |
In the beginning, we used to do two months on the lighthouse | 0:08:53 | 0:08:59 | |
and then a month off. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:00 | |
Over the years Trinity House decided that two months was too long | 0:09:00 | 0:09:07 | |
on the station and they cut it down to one month on and one month off. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:11 | |
What was it like being, sort of, marooned there all that time? | 0:09:11 | 0:09:15 | |
It was quite good. It depended on your crew. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:18 | |
If you had a good crew it was an excellent job, an excellent place to be. | 0:09:18 | 0:09:23 | |
What was Christmas like? | 0:09:23 | 0:09:25 | |
We tried to make it as enjoyable as we could, you see, at Christmas. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:29 | |
Of course, the RAF used to come out and deliver parcels for us, | 0:09:29 | 0:09:35 | |
out of the goodness of their heart. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:38 | |
They used to drop these Christmas parcels | 0:09:38 | 0:09:41 | |
by their helicopter and it was very well received. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:47 | |
Today, the lighthouse is controlled from Harwich. | 0:09:47 | 0:09:50 | |
Inside the tower I don't suppose much has changed since Bill's time. | 0:09:50 | 0:09:54 | |
But now the maintenance needed is minimal. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:56 | |
Now, Ken, I know that lighthouses are no longer manned, | 0:09:56 | 0:10:00 | |
but you're responsible for this one. What does that involve? | 0:10:00 | 0:10:04 | |
As an attendant, we come here once a month just to check the machinery, | 0:10:04 | 0:10:08 | |
making sure everything's working, nothing broken. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:11 | |
We have to clean the windows, we have to check the hours on the bulbs | 0:10:11 | 0:10:15 | |
and report back to Trinity House to tell them how things are. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:19 | |
What sort of periods of time would you be looking at spending here? | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
Usually we are here for most of a day, once a month. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:26 | |
What's the longest you've ever spent on here? | 0:10:26 | 0:10:29 | |
-About two-and-a-half weeks. -Really? | 0:10:29 | 0:10:31 | |
We ended up the last three days cos we were stuck for the weather. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
Like today, we just couldn't get off. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:36 | |
'But then the unexpected happens. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:37 | |
'The wind has built up to force eight, and on board the Patricia | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
'our helicopter has broken free and been blown overboard. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
'It's lost and for the moment, I'm stuck here too.' | 0:10:43 | 0:10:46 | |
We've now got the Coastguard to come in to rescue myself | 0:10:46 | 0:10:50 | |
and some of the other contractors that have been working on Skerries. | 0:10:50 | 0:10:54 | |
So far we've heard that the crew are all OK, | 0:10:54 | 0:10:57 | |
but obviously I'll find out when I get ashore. | 0:10:57 | 0:11:00 | |
So I leave Skerries courtesy of the Coastguard rescue helicopter. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:04 | |
Back on board the Patricia, it turns out that everyone is safe | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
so the ship has sailed on. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:10 | |
All I need to work out is how I can get across Anglesey | 0:11:10 | 0:11:13 | |
to reach South Stack lighthouse, which is south of Holyhead. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:17 | |
So, without the Patricia or a helicopter as I'd planned, | 0:11:22 | 0:11:25 | |
to get to South Stack it's a short drive and then down 400 steps | 0:11:25 | 0:11:29 | |
to one of the most inaccessible lighthouses around our coast. | 0:11:29 | 0:11:33 | |
The cliffs on the west coast of Anglesey rise more than 400 feet. | 0:11:33 | 0:11:37 | |
Where they meet the sea, a small islet juts out | 0:11:37 | 0:11:42 | |
creating another hazard for shipping. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:44 | |
This is the location of South Stack, | 0:11:44 | 0:11:47 | |
a lighthouse that's been here for nearly 200 years. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:51 | |
The first job was to cut the steps into the cliff face with the stone. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:03 | |
The stone was hewn across and used to build the tower itself. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:07 | |
There's an impressive bridge there today, has that always been there? | 0:12:07 | 0:12:10 | |
No, that's an new bridge. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:11 | |
It's been here since 1997, when we first opened to the public. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:15 | |
Before that it was a series of iron suspension bridges. | 0:12:15 | 0:12:18 | |
The first bridge was put there in 1829. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:20 | |
So, for 20 years there was no bridge. | 0:12:20 | 0:12:22 | |
They used a rope and basket to wind men and people across. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:25 | |
This is the top of South Stack lighthouse. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
Incredibly, the bulb in here is just 150 watts. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:41 | |
That's only a little more than you would use in the house. | 0:12:41 | 0:12:44 | |
But this one sends the light to more than 20 miles away, | 0:12:44 | 0:12:47 | |
all because of the optics. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:49 | |
They must keep revolving, otherwise the whole lantern would melt under the power of the sun. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:54 | |
Just off the coast, in beautiful conditions, | 0:13:08 | 0:13:10 | |
I've been taking part in an RNLI training exercise. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:14 | |
We're searching for a dummy casualty known as Dead Fred. | 0:13:14 | 0:13:18 | |
We've been at sea for over two hours now, but at last we have a sighting. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:24 | |
-I've just been informed... -RADIO: 'Two points to starboard.' | 0:13:24 | 0:13:27 | |
Two points to starboard, I have him ahead of us. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
Port that side, starboard. So, he's somewhere over there, is he? | 0:13:30 | 0:13:33 | |
-There we go. -We've run across him. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:35 | |
The two crew behind me have just told me they've spotted him. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:38 | |
So, there he is ahead of us. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
I'll just bring my bows round on to him. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:43 | |
There's Fred. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:45 | |
It's amazing how hard and difficult it is to find something like this. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
-It's really obvious now. -Absolutely. But, you can see | 0:13:49 | 0:13:52 | |
he's no more than a quarter mile off us, but it's very difficult to see him. | 0:13:52 | 0:13:55 | |
If we had bad sea conditions now, it's almost impossible. | 0:13:55 | 0:14:00 | |
But the training exercise isn't over yet. | 0:14:00 | 0:14:02 | |
Even lifting Fred from the water is carried out as if he were a real casualty. | 0:14:02 | 0:14:07 | |
Whoa, stop pulling! | 0:14:07 | 0:14:11 | |
Well, there we have it. Another successful exercise by the RNLI here off Holyhead. | 0:14:11 | 0:14:16 | |
Dead Fred lives for another day. | 0:14:16 | 0:14:19 | |
On a calm evening like this, it's hard to believe | 0:14:20 | 0:14:23 | |
the waters around Anglesey can be some of Britain's most treacherous. | 0:14:23 | 0:14:26 | |
Even on the more sheltered eastern side of the island, the notorious Menai Straits hold hidden dangers. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:34 | |
This part of the Menai Straits from the Britannia Bridge | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
here to the Menai Bridge about a mile away just | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
around the corner is one of the most | 0:14:40 | 0:14:43 | |
dangerous stretches of waterway anywhere in the country. | 0:14:43 | 0:14:47 | |
It's known as the Swellies and twice a day, 58 billion gallons of water surges through. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:54 | |
With swirling currents and fast flowing tides | 0:15:00 | 0:15:03 | |
it needs great skill at the tiller to negotiate a safe passage through. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:09 | |
It's classed as innavigable. | 0:15:09 | 0:15:10 | |
If you are bringing anything more than 12 passengers through and you | 0:15:10 | 0:15:13 | |
haven't got an exemption certificate, you have to have a pilot on board | 0:15:13 | 0:15:17 | |
to steer the ship through, otherwise it would be too dangerous. | 0:15:17 | 0:15:20 | |
And why is it so hazardous? | 0:15:20 | 0:15:22 | |
Because the tides here... | 0:15:22 | 0:15:23 | |
We have a tidal range difference of two hours from that side of the island to that side. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:28 | |
You get these massive forces of water pouring through | 0:15:28 | 0:15:32 | |
and this stretch is almost made entirely of rock and bedrock. | 0:15:32 | 0:15:36 | |
I can see loads of whirlpools. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:37 | |
It's the effect of the water rushing through and as the water hits the | 0:15:37 | 0:15:41 | |
stone slabs, it forces water up causing these back eddies and turbulence on the surface. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:46 | |
And you do a lot of diving around here, don't you? | 0:15:46 | 0:15:49 | |
It's a unique place, the Menai Strait. | 0:15:49 | 0:15:52 | |
It's mainly soft coral and sponges. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:54 | |
There's a lot of invertebrates. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
And we've really got caught in this whirlpool now. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:04 | |
We are getting spun around as we come up over the bank. | 0:16:04 | 0:16:08 | |
What's the most famous of all the shipwrecks here? | 0:16:08 | 0:16:12 | |
The most famous is definitely HMS Conway. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:14 | |
She was being brought through here by two tugs and she got caught in | 0:16:14 | 0:16:18 | |
one of these whirlpools and ended up on the Platters, | 0:16:18 | 0:16:20 | |
which we are drifting up to now. When the tide went out, she broke her back and she was finished. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:25 | |
It was a huge ship. | 0:16:25 | 0:16:27 | |
Close to the Britannia Bridge across the Straits is the little | 0:16:30 | 0:16:33 | |
island of Gored Goch, which many years ago was inhabited by monks. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:38 | |
Now, the only cottage on the island is a holiday home | 0:16:38 | 0:16:41 | |
and the other building was a fish smokery until 50 years ago. | 0:16:41 | 0:16:45 | |
The fish were caught in traps and one of them has been restored. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
How does it work, Scott? | 0:16:50 | 0:16:52 | |
As the tide comes in, the fish go over the top of a grating system across the back there. | 0:16:52 | 0:16:58 | |
And then these sluices which are open at the moment would be closed | 0:16:58 | 0:17:01 | |
and the water would dissipate through the rocks. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:05 | |
Eventually, you ended up with a pool of fish lying in the sand. | 0:17:05 | 0:17:09 | |
-Easy pickings, then. -Very much so. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:11 | |
Are there many other fish traps around here? | 0:17:11 | 0:17:15 | |
This is built on top of a very old fish trap dating back to the 1600s | 0:17:15 | 0:17:21 | |
and all along the shore side are more fish traps and there's | 0:17:21 | 0:17:25 | |
another one the other side of the island which would have been working in the day of the monastery. | 0:17:25 | 0:17:30 | |
The Britannia Bridge was built by Robert Stephenson to take the | 0:17:30 | 0:17:34 | |
railway across to Anglesey and its port of Holyhead. | 0:17:34 | 0:17:37 | |
It opened in 1850 but it looks rather different today. | 0:17:37 | 0:17:41 | |
The bridge caught fire in 1970, and it burnt for days. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:45 | |
The intense heat contorted the girders. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:47 | |
After long and extensive repairs the bridge was reopened to rail traffic | 0:17:47 | 0:17:53 | |
and then in 1980, a much-needed dual-carriageway road was built on top. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:59 | |
Before the Britannia Bridge, this was the only bridge to Anglesey - Thomas Telford's Menai Bridge | 0:17:59 | 0:18:05 | |
which was completed in 1826 and at the time it was the longest suspension bridge in the world. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:12 | |
The pier is made from rough hewn Anglesey stone, | 0:18:12 | 0:18:16 | |
had to be 100 ft above high-water so tall-masted sailing ships could pass underneath. | 0:18:16 | 0:18:20 | |
Thick steel chains suspend the road above the swirling currents. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:26 | |
What difference did the bridge make to this part of Anglesey? | 0:18:26 | 0:18:31 | |
Well, it completely created the town of Menai Bridge. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:35 | |
There was nothing here before except a rocky common. | 0:18:35 | 0:18:39 | |
The common was enclosed, | 0:18:39 | 0:18:40 | |
the bridge was built and then the town took off. | 0:18:40 | 0:18:44 | |
-Before the bridge, it was an important agricultural area. -Yes. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:47 | |
How did they get the animals across? | 0:18:47 | 0:18:51 | |
Yes, that is a huge story. | 0:18:51 | 0:18:53 | |
Imagine the black Anglesey cattle | 0:18:53 | 0:18:58 | |
swimming across. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:00 | |
By the 18th century, it was calculated 10,000 cattle swam across | 0:19:00 | 0:19:06 | |
the Menai Straits in one year and it is this stretch of water here. | 0:19:06 | 0:19:10 | |
It must have been an incredible sight, the noise must have been awful! | 0:19:10 | 0:19:14 | |
The famous bridge brought the A5 road into Anglesey. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:19 | |
Yes, it was all part of the huge plan to link London with Holyhead and then the boats to Ireland. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:26 | |
It was connecting London and Dublin. | 0:19:26 | 0:19:30 | |
Today, the little town of Menai Bridge continues to thrive. | 0:19:30 | 0:19:35 | |
I am heading towards the Menai Bridge myself. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:39 | |
Travelling across Anglesey by train, | 0:19:39 | 0:19:43 | |
but en route I can't resist a stop at the town with the longest name in the UK. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:49 | |
Often abbreviated to Llanfair PG, the town used to be known as | 0:19:49 | 0:19:53 | |
Llanfairpwllgwyngyll - quite a mouthful in itself. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:57 | |
But when the railway was built in the 1850s, a committee was | 0:19:57 | 0:20:01 | |
put together to try and encourage tourists to stop at the village. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:05 | |
And that's when a local cobbler came up with the brand new name of... | 0:20:05 | 0:20:10 | |
Llan-fair-pwill-gwin... | 0:20:10 | 0:20:13 | |
Cut! | 0:20:13 | 0:20:15 | |
How do you pronounce it, the whole thing? | 0:20:19 | 0:20:22 | |
Llanfairpwillgwyngyll... | 0:20:22 | 0:20:24 | |
One more time, I will get it, this one. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:29 | |
-Llan-fair... -Gogerychwyrndrob. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:33 | |
Jess! | 0:20:35 | 0:20:36 | |
Llantysiliogogococh. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:38 | |
Well, however you pronounce it, the name roughly translates as the church of Mary in the hollow of | 0:20:38 | 0:20:45 | |
white hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the church of Tysilio by the red cave. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:52 | |
But as the name was dreamed of as a publicity stunt | 0:20:52 | 0:20:55 | |
I've decided to find out if all these elements really exist. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
Well, I found St Mary's church and what a beautiful spot this is. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:03 | |
You could even argue this is a hollow so what I need to find now are some white hazel trees. | 0:21:03 | 0:21:09 | |
Now, I am no tree expert but using my guide, | 0:21:15 | 0:21:20 | |
this looks a bit like hazel. | 0:21:20 | 0:21:24 | |
It's got the right leaf shape, the bark is light brown. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:28 | |
I'm not convinced it's white hazel but it will do me. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:32 | |
That's the Menai Straits that John Craven visited. | 0:21:36 | 0:21:39 | |
You could describe that as a whirlpool. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:41 | |
And just down the road I found the Church of St Tysilio. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:56 | |
And that just leaves the elusive red caves. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:05 | |
There are two theories on this. | 0:22:05 | 0:22:06 | |
One that it was a mispronunciation lost in translation that in fact means island | 0:22:06 | 0:22:11 | |
which you can see just over there, and the other is that the red caves | 0:22:11 | 0:22:14 | |
still exist hidden somewhere beneath one of the bridges. | 0:22:14 | 0:22:19 | |
Crossing Telford's magnificent bridge, I am heading into mainland | 0:22:19 | 0:22:24 | |
Wales and within a few miles the mountains of Snowdonia begin to rise steeply around me. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:30 | |
It's a perfect area for a sightseeing trip. | 0:22:30 | 0:22:33 | |
You might not normally associate buses with a relaxing way to get around but the Snowdon Sherpa | 0:22:37 | 0:22:41 | |
is supposed be just that, a stress-free way of travelling around the sights of North Wales. | 0:22:41 | 0:22:48 | |
It covers some of the most scenic places around Snowdon | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
and has grown from a local service connecting rural communities to a tourist attraction in its own right. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:58 | |
Mastering the timetable isn't too hard, either. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:01 | |
Buses run every hour during the summer months. | 0:23:01 | 0:23:04 | |
It looks like I've got a little bit of time to kill which gives me the | 0:23:04 | 0:23:07 | |
perfect opportunity to explore my starting point, Llandudno. | 0:23:07 | 0:23:11 | |
Llandudno is the first stop on this section of the route. | 0:23:11 | 0:23:15 | |
The town is one of the largest seaside resorts in Wales. | 0:23:15 | 0:23:18 | |
Every year, thousands of visitors come to enjoy the long sweeping bay | 0:23:18 | 0:23:22 | |
and Victorian character which is still evident in the town today. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:28 | |
John's grandfather was one of the people who helped build the town. | 0:23:28 | 0:23:32 | |
John himself is now a local historian. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:36 | |
How did Llandudno evolve into a seaside town? | 0:23:36 | 0:23:39 | |
It did not evolve, it was built as a seaside town | 0:23:39 | 0:23:41 | |
by the Mostyn family who lived locally. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
They saw the potential for it as a watering place, as the great fashion at the time for taking | 0:23:43 | 0:23:50 | |
the waters, bathing in the sea and they saw this would be the ideal place to build it. | 0:23:50 | 0:23:55 | |
They didn't have a railway system at that time. | 0:23:55 | 0:23:57 | |
Everybody had to come in by the sea. | 0:23:57 | 0:24:00 | |
They came in by steamers and would be rowed ashore and dropped on the beach. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:04 | |
It was quite primitive, actually. | 0:24:04 | 0:24:06 | |
Until about 1858, when the railway arrived. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:10 | |
This really opened up Llandudno to business. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:12 | |
It was one of the busiest railway stations in Britain for a period. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:17 | |
So, it really developed in the Victorian era? | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
Absolutely. Right bang in the middle of the Victorian era, when they went on the bandwagon of | 0:24:20 | 0:24:27 | |
building resorts all over the country, but this one was unique because it included | 0:24:27 | 0:24:32 | |
modern facilities like indoor toilets and baths and running water and a proper sewage system. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:39 | |
It was definitely upmarket by those standards in those days. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:44 | |
Sadly, there's no time for a quick donkey ride on the beach. | 0:24:46 | 0:24:49 | |
I've got a bus to catch. | 0:24:49 | 0:24:52 | |
Taking the bus not only takes the hassle out of driving and parking, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:58 | |
it leaves you free to make the most of the views. | 0:24:58 | 0:25:01 | |
I am taking the S2 service from Llandudno to Pen-y-pass at the foot of Snowdon. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:06 | |
It's just one of the Sherpa routes that take you all over the area. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:11 | |
I've got my red rover bus ticket so for £4.95 I can travel all over the Snowdon Sherpa network. | 0:25:11 | 0:25:18 | |
I can get on and off as much as I please so I've got my walking | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
boots and my timetable, the sun is out, it's going to be a good day. | 0:25:21 | 0:25:25 | |
Thank you very much. Bye! | 0:25:33 | 0:25:35 | |
My first stop is a visit to Gwydir Castle, | 0:25:36 | 0:25:38 | |
one of the finest Tudor houses in Wales. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:41 | |
Stunning as the castle itself is, I am here to see the 17th century | 0:25:41 | 0:25:45 | |
dining room which, astonishingly, has been all the way to America and back. | 0:25:45 | 0:25:50 | |
The dining room has been on quite a journey, hasn't it? | 0:25:50 | 0:25:54 | |
Well, it was bought by William Randolph Hearst | 0:25:54 | 0:25:57 | |
who people will know as Citizen Kane. | 0:25:57 | 0:25:59 | |
It was bought by him in 1921 at house sale here | 0:25:59 | 0:26:03 | |
and it was destined for his castle in California | 0:26:03 | 0:26:08 | |
but he never assembled it there. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:09 | |
And we went on a detective story, or journey, and found it languishing in the warehouses of the | 0:26:09 | 0:26:17 | |
Metropolitan Museum in New York and we negotiated with the Metropolitan Museum and were able to buy it back. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:24 | |
We then reassembled it in its rightful place. | 0:26:24 | 0:26:27 | |
What sort of state was it in when it came back to you because it had been in crates for quite a long time. | 0:26:27 | 0:26:32 | |
It had. It was in not too bad condition considering what it had been through. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:38 | |
The leather frieze was extremely dirty and we took advice from | 0:26:38 | 0:26:44 | |
various museums and they said use spit, it's a gentle detergent, | 0:26:44 | 0:26:49 | |
so we did spend three months spitting on this leatherwork | 0:26:49 | 0:26:56 | |
and you can see, it paid dividends. | 0:26:56 | 0:26:58 | |
-That's what you call lovingly restoring something. -Yes! | 0:27:00 | 0:27:03 | |
You have been lovingly restoring the whole place for 13 years. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:06 | |
Yes, it was derelict when we bought the house, so we've been gradually, | 0:27:06 | 0:27:12 | |
through a careful and phased process of restoration, putting the house back together | 0:27:12 | 0:27:17 | |
again while still trying to retain its atmosphere. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:22 | |
When do you think you will be finished? | 0:27:22 | 0:27:23 | |
Never! It's a lifetime's job. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:25 | |
We will devote the rest our lives to it, I think. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:28 | |
You are doing a good job, it's beautiful. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:30 | |
Thank you. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:32 | |
Sadly, there's no time to help out with the spitting. | 0:27:32 | 0:27:35 | |
I am back on the bus to Snowdon. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:37 | |
On this bus trip, travelling to my destination is as much | 0:27:43 | 0:27:47 | |
part of the experience as actually reaching the final stop. | 0:27:47 | 0:27:51 | |
And reaching my next destination is almost a door-to-door service. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:06 | |
When you come to the great outdoors in Wales you can't possibly sit on a bus all day. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
You've got to get some exercise. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:18 | |
Even if you don't fancy climbing the mountain, there are plenty of other things you can do. | 0:28:18 | 0:28:23 | |
This is the National Mountain Centre. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:25 | |
It's an absolutely stunning place. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:28 | |
And you can do all sorts of things here. | 0:28:29 | 0:28:32 | |
From professional courses to just trying out a couple of hours of something like kayaking. | 0:28:32 | 0:28:36 | |
A natural. | 0:28:36 | 0:28:38 | |
You have done this before, haven't you? | 0:28:40 | 0:28:42 | |
-Whee! -Fantastic. | 0:28:42 | 0:28:45 | |
Very good. | 0:28:46 | 0:28:48 | |
After getting to grips with the basics, it's on to something a bit harder. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:51 | |
Perfecting my wiggle. | 0:28:51 | 0:28:53 | |
Hold your paddle out and give me a wiggle from side to side. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:56 | |
You are going quite a long way, aren't you? | 0:28:56 | 0:28:59 | |
-Yeah. Too far. -That's brilliant. | 0:28:59 | 0:29:01 | |
You were pretty close to going in there. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:04 | |
How do you stop yourself from going? | 0:29:04 | 0:29:05 | |
If you flip the thing over you can push on the surface of the water. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:10 | |
And armed with that vital piece of information, | 0:29:10 | 0:29:13 | |
I felt confident about staying dry as we headed to more challenging water. | 0:29:13 | 0:29:18 | |
Whee! | 0:29:30 | 0:29:31 | |
And just as I thought I was doing well... | 0:29:36 | 0:29:39 | |
It's freezing! | 0:29:39 | 0:29:40 | |
Well, I think I overdid it a bit there. I fell in. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:48 | |
That was real comedy value, that. I think | 0:29:48 | 0:29:52 | |
I might get on the back of the bus now. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:54 | |
Fortunately, I've got my dry trousers. | 0:29:54 | 0:29:58 | |
All dried off again and I am on my way to the final stop of my journey. | 0:30:00 | 0:30:05 | |
This is when it really pays to sit on the top deck. | 0:30:07 | 0:30:10 | |
The views as you approach Snowdon are spectacular. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:12 | |
Although it does play havoc with your hair. | 0:30:12 | 0:30:15 | |
So, 30 miles and £4.95 later, | 0:30:21 | 0:30:25 | |
here I am at Pen-y-pass at the foot of Snowdon. | 0:30:25 | 0:30:29 | |
I've reached the end of my trip but it's taken me so long to get here because I've stopped so many times, | 0:30:29 | 0:30:35 | |
plus my boots are still soaking wet from falling in the water. | 0:30:35 | 0:30:40 | |
I'm going to have to leave climbing the mountain until another day. | 0:30:40 | 0:30:43 | |
All I've got to do now is wait for the bus back again. | 0:30:43 | 0:30:46 | |
But let's face it, it's not a bad bus-stop to wait at. | 0:30:46 | 0:30:50 | |
Michaela might not have climbed Snowdon but each year, around half-a-million people do. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:03 | |
In fact, it's been described as probably the busiest mountain in | 0:31:03 | 0:31:07 | |
Britain and its sparkling new visitor centre is sure to help that reputation alive. | 0:31:07 | 0:31:13 | |
But I want to get away from the crowds. | 0:31:13 | 0:31:16 | |
My journey started at Holyhead taking me through Llanfair PG and now I've arrived in Capel Curig. | 0:31:16 | 0:31:24 | |
I'm hoping to get off the beaten track. | 0:31:24 | 0:31:27 | |
I followed in Michaela's footsteps to the National Mountain Centre and her canoe instructor | 0:31:27 | 0:31:31 | |
Martin Chester has offered to take me on one of his favourite walks. | 0:31:31 | 0:31:35 | |
Right, the beginning of the trail. | 0:31:40 | 0:31:42 | |
Where are we heading to today then, Martin? | 0:31:42 | 0:31:44 | |
This is the old packhorse trail | 0:31:44 | 0:31:46 | |
that would have been the original trade route, so we are going up through here | 0:31:46 | 0:31:50 | |
and break right to a Bronze Age burial cairn which gives us a beautiful view | 0:31:50 | 0:31:54 | |
of the mountains and a nice view point to enjoy the scenery. | 0:31:54 | 0:31:58 | |
We couldn't have asked for better weather. | 0:31:58 | 0:32:01 | |
Absolutely stunning. | 0:32:01 | 0:32:03 | |
Martin has worked as a chief instructor at the National Mountain Centre for 14 years. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:07 | |
So, if anyone knows the less travelled paths, it's him. | 0:32:07 | 0:32:12 | |
Snowdon on a busy weekend is absolutely mobbed, | 0:32:12 | 0:32:16 | |
and if you were to take the footpath that is absolutely mobbed. | 0:32:16 | 0:32:20 | |
As soon as you come off the beaten track | 0:32:20 | 0:32:22 | |
or places like this, it's suddenly very easy to find places where there just aren't that many people. | 0:32:22 | 0:32:28 | |
I couldn't help noticing the impressive peak behind us. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:31 | |
What is that one? | 0:32:31 | 0:32:33 | |
That is our back garden at the National Mountain Centre. | 0:32:33 | 0:32:37 | |
It's a beautiful mountain. | 0:32:37 | 0:32:38 | |
It gets tremendous views of the National Parks, it's stuck out on its own more than the others. | 0:32:38 | 0:32:43 | |
-And what height is she? -It's just under 3,000 feet, | 0:32:43 | 0:32:46 | |
which means it's tremendously less popular than a lot of the really busy peaks. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:51 | |
There's 14 peaks in the main range over 3,000 feet. | 0:32:51 | 0:32:54 | |
For the some reason, people love ticking off these numbers and | 0:32:54 | 0:32:57 | |
that's just under which is a good thing because it means it's nowhere near as busy. | 0:32:57 | 0:33:02 | |
-One of the hidden gems. -Absolutely. | 0:33:02 | 0:33:06 | |
We've only walked two or three miles from civilisation and though | 0:33:06 | 0:33:09 | |
we haven't gained a great deal of height, the views are stunning. | 0:33:09 | 0:33:13 | |
I have to say, Martin, it's not that often I am very envious of someone else's job. | 0:33:18 | 0:33:22 | |
Everyone always tells me I've got the luckiest job but look at this. | 0:33:22 | 0:33:27 | |
-The best job in the world. -Where are we now, what's this? | 0:33:27 | 0:33:29 | |
This is a Bronze Age burial cairn or a cremation cairn depending on who you believe. | 0:33:29 | 0:33:34 | |
What a view, they would have chosen this spot because of the majesty of the mountains behind us. | 0:33:34 | 0:33:39 | |
It's a fantastic viewpoint. You can see all the ranges of Snowdonia. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:43 | |
It would have been an important trade point as the meeting of lots of different valleys. | 0:33:43 | 0:33:47 | |
And I'm led to believe the folks at the time were nomadic | 0:33:47 | 0:33:51 | |
so what greater way to stake your claim to a bit of land than plonk | 0:33:51 | 0:33:56 | |
great uncle Winifred in his cairn on the top, and mark the fact this is yours. | 0:33:56 | 0:34:03 | |
I can think of worse places to be buried. What's really struck me is a | 0:34:03 | 0:34:06 | |
beautiful hot day and we haven't seen a single soul. | 0:34:06 | 0:34:08 | |
No, it's amazing. We are away from the beaten track. | 0:34:08 | 0:34:12 | |
-Away from the crowds. -A real little gem. | 0:34:12 | 0:34:14 | |
-Thank you, Martin. -You're welcome. | 0:34:14 | 0:34:16 | |
These quiet areas of Snowdonia are a good place to spot wildlife. | 0:34:16 | 0:34:20 | |
Back in 1996, Rachel Morgan was not having much luck. | 0:34:20 | 0:34:26 | |
I am looking for a pine marten | 0:34:26 | 0:34:29 | |
and no, it's not a bird. | 0:34:29 | 0:34:31 | |
I'm told it's a relative of the weasel but it's bigger and fiercer. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:36 | |
And widely thought to be extinct in England and Wales. | 0:34:36 | 0:34:39 | |
But there are now rumours, strong rumours, that it's alive here in Wales surviving in this wood. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:47 | |
In Scotland and Ireland, pine marten numbers are recovering after years of being hunted for fur. | 0:34:47 | 0:34:53 | |
The only real proof, though, that it's survived elsewhere | 0:34:53 | 0:34:55 | |
is one carcass found after a road accident in Lancashire. | 0:34:55 | 0:34:59 | |
But could it be that the Welsh variety is fighting back? | 0:34:59 | 0:35:02 | |
Well, I'd just been making a sound recording of a colony | 0:35:04 | 0:35:06 | |
of lesser horseshoe bats, which was why I was wandering about here | 0:35:06 | 0:35:10 | |
in the middle of the night. | 0:35:10 | 0:35:12 | |
I got to about here and out the corner of my eye I saw a fairly | 0:35:12 | 0:35:15 | |
large animal come bounding down from behind the rocks over here and across the driveway. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:20 | |
So I shone my torch on it, | 0:35:20 | 0:35:23 | |
by which time it had its front feet up on the wall, big | 0:35:23 | 0:35:27 | |
long bushy tail like a squirrel, and it couldn't really have been anything except a pine marten. | 0:35:27 | 0:35:32 | |
Or could it? | 0:35:32 | 0:35:34 | |
The hunt for the pine marten is on in England and Wales, | 0:35:34 | 0:35:37 | |
led by Dr Johnny Burke, | 0:35:37 | 0:35:39 | |
but a sighting does not amount to proof. | 0:35:39 | 0:35:42 | |
Many claim to have seen the Loch Ness monster, yet the myths and legends refuse to yield it up. | 0:35:42 | 0:35:48 | |
This is it, this is a stuffed one. | 0:35:54 | 0:35:57 | |
It was actually found in Lancashire a couple of years ago by Mrs Davies. | 0:35:57 | 0:36:01 | |
He's a fine male pine marten. | 0:36:01 | 0:36:04 | |
Lovely rich brown colour, quite a long bushy tail, | 0:36:04 | 0:36:08 | |
prominent ears, quite a long snout and very, very prominent is this | 0:36:08 | 0:36:12 | |
creamy yellow chest patch, throat patch down here. | 0:36:12 | 0:36:15 | |
The amount of evidence that we've receiving in the form of sightings from naturalists, | 0:36:15 | 0:36:20 | |
occasional road casualties like this one is very encouraging evidence that they're still there. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:26 | |
But the challenge is finding how to survey them and find evidence of them. | 0:36:26 | 0:36:31 | |
So what are you actually doing to prove that pine martens still actually exist? | 0:36:31 | 0:36:35 | |
Well, we're trying to get concrete evidence through a variety of things, bait stations, | 0:36:35 | 0:36:40 | |
looking for droppings and using our remote camera system. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:42 | |
And this is one of the bait stations that we've developed, and the idea | 0:36:42 | 0:36:46 | |
is we place these boxes up trees with food at the back and a spring stretched across the entrance. | 0:36:46 | 0:36:52 | |
And as the animal climbs in and goes for the food, it dislodges | 0:36:52 | 0:36:56 | |
the spring, which traps and plucks a few hairs from its back. | 0:36:56 | 0:37:00 | |
I found these this morning quite near here, and I think they're pine marten droppings. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:05 | |
One of the distinctive things about them is that they smell quite sweet, almost fruity. | 0:37:05 | 0:37:10 | |
Go on. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:11 | |
Mmm, they are but... | 0:37:11 | 0:37:14 | |
Ha-ha-ha! You're not too keen! | 0:37:14 | 0:37:16 | |
-No. -Gorgeous, wonderful smell, it's heaven. | 0:37:16 | 0:37:19 | |
How does this differ from perhaps a polecat or...? | 0:37:19 | 0:37:22 | |
A polecat dropping tends to smell nastier. | 0:37:22 | 0:37:26 | |
-They have quite a rank, sharp, nasty smell. -That doesn't smell too bad at all. | 0:37:26 | 0:37:30 | |
No, these are quite pleasant to people who are connoisseurs of these things. | 0:37:30 | 0:37:33 | |
Fox droppings tend to be larger, and they also smell really rank as well. | 0:37:33 | 0:37:38 | |
Under cover of night, the pine marten forays forth, | 0:37:38 | 0:37:42 | |
climbing trees with ease, conquering sheer rock faces effortlessly. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:46 | |
It will eat anything from fruit to small mammals. | 0:37:46 | 0:37:48 | |
It roamed the Welsh forest before the birth of man, | 0:37:48 | 0:37:52 | |
became embedded in Welsh songs, place names and ancient annals. | 0:37:52 | 0:37:55 | |
But as our woodlands disappeared, so did the pine marten. | 0:37:55 | 0:37:59 | |
They were persecuted by the estates, by the gamekeepers, | 0:37:59 | 0:38:02 | |
and after all those gamekeepers went to the First World War, | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
and of course the pressure from that quarter was lessened, | 0:38:05 | 0:38:10 | |
then a lot of them were killed in fox traps | 0:38:10 | 0:38:13 | |
when the Forestry Commission started planting the large forestry plantations, | 0:38:13 | 0:38:18 | |
so that was the another bout of pressure. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:20 | |
It's been rare since the last century, now it's a protected species. | 0:38:20 | 0:38:24 | |
It may be a reality in Scotland and Ireland, but the pine marten's existence - or not - | 0:38:24 | 0:38:29 | |
in England and Wales is a mystery naturalists need help in solving. | 0:38:29 | 0:38:33 | |
I'm travelling on from Capel Curig | 0:38:36 | 0:38:38 | |
and making my way to the heart of the Gwydyr Forest, | 0:38:38 | 0:38:42 | |
where I'm in meeting Neil Jordan from The Vincent Wildlife Trust, | 0:38:42 | 0:38:46 | |
who's still looking for pine martens in Wales. | 0:38:46 | 0:38:48 | |
So since that report was made, how many sightings have you actually had of pine martens here in Wales? | 0:38:48 | 0:38:54 | |
In Wales, we've had quite a few, but the last one here was in 2003, | 0:38:54 | 0:38:58 | |
so we haven't had many, but they come through sort of sporadically. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:02 | |
Confirmed sightings are not just exciting, | 0:39:02 | 0:39:06 | |
they provide the trust with valuable information that can help them understand | 0:39:06 | 0:39:10 | |
and potentially help the struggling pine marten population. | 0:39:10 | 0:39:14 | |
So over the last two days, | 0:39:14 | 0:39:16 | |
we've had a camera with a motion sensor set up in the forest | 0:39:16 | 0:39:19 | |
in the hope of catching sight of the elusive creature. | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
It's time now to see the results. | 0:39:22 | 0:39:26 | |
OK, so this is the camera in the waterproof unit. | 0:39:26 | 0:39:29 | |
I know it's quite ambitious that we might catch one, but this sort of information | 0:39:29 | 0:39:33 | |
that we may or may not have on here would be absolutely crucial to you. | 0:39:33 | 0:39:36 | |
Absolutely crucial. It would be fantastic to get current evidence of pine martens here now. | 0:39:36 | 0:39:41 | |
OK, Well, let's see. I will press play there, and let's see. | 0:39:41 | 0:39:47 | |
OK, there's the platform. | 0:39:47 | 0:39:49 | |
It's dark, at night. We've got some... | 0:39:49 | 0:39:51 | |
-I think it's chicken up there. -There are some chicken wings, yeah. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:55 | |
-What else was there? -A little bit of jam and peanut butter. | 0:39:55 | 0:39:59 | |
-Always a winner! -Absolutely. | 0:39:59 | 0:40:00 | |
It's lucky I wasn't wandering round there, I'd be straight up. | 0:40:00 | 0:40:04 | |
Oh... What's... OK, I think those are probably squirrels. | 0:40:04 | 0:40:07 | |
Yes. | 0:40:07 | 0:40:10 | |
-We know those are squirrels. -Straight for the jam. | 0:40:10 | 0:40:12 | |
Well, there's no disguising that. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
They're a lot smaller, obviously, than the pine marten. | 0:40:15 | 0:40:19 | |
And a big bushy tail. | 0:40:19 | 0:40:20 | |
Yep, OK, so we're not going to get anything this time, | 0:40:20 | 0:40:24 | |
but presumably you'll keep asking people to send in any reports | 0:40:24 | 0:40:29 | |
of scat or actual sightings. | 0:40:29 | 0:40:32 | |
Absolutely. If anyone sees pine martens, we're very desperate to know, and we'll come and find them. | 0:40:32 | 0:40:38 | |
Leaving the Gwydyr Forest behind, | 0:40:40 | 0:40:42 | |
I'm heading further east to Llangollen. | 0:40:42 | 0:40:44 | |
Here the River Dee winds its way from its source high in the mountains of Snowdonia. | 0:40:44 | 0:40:49 | |
It's a popular salmon river, | 0:40:49 | 0:40:52 | |
and, with wild salmon becoming rarer, the value of these fish has soared. | 0:40:52 | 0:40:56 | |
Sadly, the high value has brought with it crime. | 0:40:56 | 0:41:00 | |
So just how bad is it for the salmon here now? | 0:41:03 | 0:41:05 | |
Well, there's a big decline in salmon at the moment - | 0:41:05 | 0:41:08 | |
mortality at sea and various other things that happen on the river, | 0:41:08 | 0:41:12 | |
which all contribute to a lack of salmon spawning on the reds. | 0:41:12 | 0:41:16 | |
So compared to, say, 20 years ago, there's a huge decline, is there? | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
Yeah, a big decline. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:24 | |
I mean, there certainly is nowhere near as many fish in the river now as there used to be. | 0:41:24 | 0:41:28 | |
Rick is an environmental crime officer. | 0:41:28 | 0:41:31 | |
One of his roles is to track down poachers on the river. | 0:41:31 | 0:41:34 | |
He often works undercover, and for that reason doesn't want his face to be seen on camera. | 0:41:34 | 0:41:40 | |
So how do you go about your job? | 0:41:40 | 0:41:42 | |
Do you receive information, intelligence, tip-offs? | 0:41:42 | 0:41:47 | |
All of those things, really. Intelligence, for sure. We do work a lot off the intelligence | 0:41:47 | 0:41:52 | |
that people ring in, they give us information, we come down and confirm or deny it. | 0:41:52 | 0:41:58 | |
It is confirmed, we'll plan a job. | 0:41:58 | 0:42:00 | |
The whole team will come down, perform the job, hopefully get a result and move on to the next one. | 0:42:00 | 0:42:05 | |
Acting on intelligence, Rick has been known to stake out a likely spot, | 0:42:05 | 0:42:10 | |
hiding in the undergrowth to gather evidence of salmon poaching. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:14 | |
So what sort of means do they use now to poach a salmon? | 0:42:14 | 0:42:19 | |
-Well, there's gaffs, the normal gaffs. -A gaff, so a pole with a hook on the end? | 0:42:19 | 0:42:24 | |
You've got snatching equipment, which consists of very large treble hooks | 0:42:24 | 0:42:28 | |
on leaded line with weights which they pull along the bottom, | 0:42:28 | 0:42:31 | |
and if they feel a salmon, they'll yank it into the side of the salmon and take the fish that way. | 0:42:31 | 0:42:37 | |
And you've got static traps, which they put at choke points on the river, | 0:42:37 | 0:42:41 | |
-which the salmon will swim into... -Choke points are where the river narrows. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:45 | |
Yeah, or waterfalls, things like that. | 0:42:45 | 0:42:47 | |
Home-made tridents. | 0:42:47 | 0:42:49 | |
A trident is like a pitchfork, if you like, with any number of tines on it | 0:42:49 | 0:42:53 | |
between three or four up to 14, or with barbs on that they use to spear the fish. | 0:42:53 | 0:43:00 | |
All these gruesome-looking instruments were confiscated by Rick and his colleagues. | 0:43:00 | 0:43:05 | |
So they'd literally step out into the water and just jab it. | 0:43:05 | 0:43:09 | |
Find where the fish is lying, come from behind, stab it and pin it down and take it. | 0:43:09 | 0:43:14 | |
How gruesome. | 0:43:14 | 0:43:16 | |
These methods of poaching seem particularly unfair, given the fishes' epic battle | 0:43:16 | 0:43:20 | |
to make their way all the way upriver to spawn. | 0:43:20 | 0:43:23 | |
Now, just explain the implications. | 0:43:23 | 0:43:27 | |
One salmon that has been taken from the river illegally | 0:43:27 | 0:43:30 | |
presumably can have some pretty profound effects on salmon as a whole. | 0:43:30 | 0:43:36 | |
Sure. I mean, many thousands of fish come from one hen salmon. | 0:43:36 | 0:43:41 | |
All of the eggs that she produces are the prodigy for future years, so if you're taking the hen fish away, | 0:43:41 | 0:43:48 | |
potentially 80,000 fish are being taken out of the system. | 0:43:48 | 0:43:52 | |
And it's just not really very fair, is it, to gaff a salmon at this stage? | 0:43:52 | 0:43:57 | |
Well, they're practically at the end of their journey. | 0:43:57 | 0:44:00 | |
They've travelled thousands of miles, jumped many waterfalls to get to this point, | 0:44:00 | 0:44:04 | |
and they're focused on recreating, and the chaps, and ladies sometimes, | 0:44:04 | 0:44:08 | |
will come along and finish the job off before it's even started. | 0:44:08 | 0:44:11 | |
So it could have really profound effects on the population of salmon as a whole. | 0:44:11 | 0:44:16 | |
Sure, and they're already on the decline, and that's going to contribute to it. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:20 | |
Besides being home to the beautiful River Dee, | 0:44:24 | 0:44:27 | |
the normally quiet rural town of Llangollen comes alive each year | 0:44:27 | 0:44:30 | |
when 5,000 performers from around the world gather for the International Musical Eisteddfod. | 0:44:30 | 0:44:36 | |
Eisteddfods are embedded in Welsh culture and history. | 0:44:42 | 0:44:45 | |
Artists of all ages compete in festivals that celebrate literature, music and dance, | 0:44:45 | 0:44:51 | |
but the idea to extend the Welsh traditions to other parts of the world | 0:44:51 | 0:44:55 | |
started shortly after the Second World War. | 0:44:55 | 0:44:58 | |
In 1947, a group of artists and musicians decided to set up a festival to heal the wounds of war | 0:44:58 | 0:45:04 | |
by bringing nations together through music and dance. | 0:45:04 | 0:45:07 | |
What was it like on that first festival? Did people turn up? | 0:45:12 | 0:45:15 | |
Well, this was the great uncertainty, of course. | 0:45:15 | 0:45:18 | |
There were applications from various countries. | 0:45:18 | 0:45:21 | |
In fact, there were 14 nationalities who applied to compete, | 0:45:21 | 0:45:24 | |
but of course nobody knew if they were actually going to turn up. And nerves were getting quite high. | 0:45:24 | 0:45:30 | |
It was heard that there was a foreign bus in the vicinity, | 0:45:30 | 0:45:33 | |
and the whole of the town came out onto the street, | 0:45:33 | 0:45:35 | |
and there arrived a travel-stained bus that had driven all the way from Portugal with a ladies' choir in it. | 0:45:35 | 0:45:43 | |
And they were quite amazed by the reception they received. They were received as if they were royalty. | 0:45:43 | 0:45:48 | |
Everybody out on the street clapping and waving - they had a tremendous reception. | 0:45:48 | 0:45:53 | |
And of course, a great relief, yes, people were coming. | 0:45:53 | 0:45:55 | |
It was truly going to be an international eisteddfod. | 0:45:55 | 0:45:58 | |
-And how did the local community accept the overseas visitors? -They must have been a very bemused. | 0:45:58 | 0:46:04 | |
At the time, bear in mind foreign travel was virtually unknown | 0:46:04 | 0:46:07 | |
except for the very rich, and the eisteddfod decided from the outset | 0:46:07 | 0:46:11 | |
that all overseas competitors were to be accommodated in private homes | 0:46:11 | 0:46:15 | |
and welcomed as members of the family. | 0:46:15 | 0:46:17 | |
Good afternoon. Could you help us to find some accommodation? | 0:46:17 | 0:46:21 | |
Well, yes, I think we can help you. | 0:46:21 | 0:46:24 | |
So the hospitality committee had the job of going round | 0:46:24 | 0:46:27 | |
knocking on doors, asking bemused housewives if they could provide a bed or two beds, | 0:46:27 | 0:46:33 | |
bearing in mind, of course, that in almost every case communication was by nods, smiles and sign language. | 0:46:33 | 0:46:39 | |
But it worked! | 0:46:39 | 0:46:40 | |
Presumably a lot of the countries have experienced some conflict in the past, | 0:46:40 | 0:46:44 | |
but they still come together through the music. | 0:46:44 | 0:46:46 | |
Well, this is part of the magic of Llangollen - it's an instrument of reconciliation. | 0:46:46 | 0:46:51 | |
Let me give you an example. | 0:46:51 | 0:46:53 | |
In 1949, four years after the end of the Second World War, | 0:46:53 | 0:46:57 | |
we had the first German group here, a choir from Lubeck in Germany. | 0:46:57 | 0:47:02 | |
And they arrived very nervously, | 0:47:02 | 0:47:05 | |
wondering what the reception was going to be, | 0:47:05 | 0:47:07 | |
and they were lined up backstage waiting to come on full of nerves. | 0:47:07 | 0:47:11 | |
And the presenter on stage said the inspired words, | 0:47:11 | 0:47:15 | |
"Ladies and gentlemen, will you please welcome our friends from Germany?" | 0:47:15 | 0:47:20 | |
The choir came on, they had a tumultuous reception, | 0:47:20 | 0:47:23 | |
people were clapping and cheering and standing, | 0:47:23 | 0:47:26 | |
the choir were in tears, the audience were in tears, | 0:47:26 | 0:47:31 | |
everybody was in tears. | 0:47:31 | 0:47:32 | |
They had to suspend the eisteddfod for a quarter of an hour | 0:47:32 | 0:47:36 | |
to let everybody collect themselves, | 0:47:36 | 0:47:38 | |
and that was a true example of the way that Llangollen brings people together. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:43 | |
The festival is now in its 61st year, | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
and making sure the week runs smoothly is Mervyn Cousins, the eisteddfod director. | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
How has it changed over the years? | 0:47:53 | 0:47:55 | |
The buzz has got greater, the number of people have got greater. | 0:47:55 | 0:47:58 | |
We're talking about 50-odd countries. | 0:47:58 | 0:48:01 | |
We started with 13 all those years ago. | 0:48:01 | 0:48:03 | |
So it's got bigger, and we hope more colourful. | 0:48:03 | 0:48:05 | |
But the focus remains, the reason for doing it | 0:48:05 | 0:48:08 | |
is to promote peace and goodwill between nations, | 0:48:08 | 0:48:10 | |
and it was for that reason that we were nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize in 2004, | 0:48:10 | 0:48:14 | |
and for a town and an event to be nominated for a peace prize is just fantastic. | 0:48:14 | 0:48:20 | |
You've had some famous visitors here, too. | 0:48:20 | 0:48:22 | |
We certainly have. I suppose the most iconic one is the late and great Pavarotti, | 0:48:22 | 0:48:26 | |
who first came as a competitor with his father. | 0:48:26 | 0:48:29 | |
They won the male choir competition in 1955 with the Modena Choir, | 0:48:29 | 0:48:33 | |
and it was that moment that he decided to become a professional singer. | 0:48:33 | 0:48:36 | |
He came back 40 years later in great triumph as THE tenor of the world. | 0:48:36 | 0:48:40 | |
In the party atmosphere, it's hard to believe | 0:48:40 | 0:48:43 | |
that the performers are actually competing against each other. | 0:48:43 | 0:48:47 | |
-So where are you from? -Tobago. -And are you having a good time? | 0:48:47 | 0:48:51 | |
We are having a good time, although it's just a bit colder than our country, but it's wonderful. | 0:48:51 | 0:48:56 | |
-And have you been before? -No, this is my first time. | 0:48:56 | 0:48:59 | |
-Well, you look amazing. Good luck, have a great time. -Thank you very much. | 0:48:59 | 0:49:03 | |
High five! | 0:49:03 | 0:49:06 | |
-Where are you from? -South Africa. | 0:49:06 | 0:49:08 | |
-Are you gonna win? -Yes! | 0:49:10 | 0:49:13 | |
Pretty confident! | 0:49:13 | 0:49:15 | |
Give me the pose with the stick. | 0:49:20 | 0:49:22 | |
The party mood is infectious. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:35 | |
-We are from Argentina. -Argentina? | 0:49:51 | 0:49:54 | |
-Yes. -And what sort of music or dance will you be doing? | 0:49:54 | 0:49:57 | |
We are doing folk traditional music, yes. | 0:49:57 | 0:49:59 | |
We are three musicians called El Trio Pampa, | 0:49:59 | 0:50:02 | |
and then six people from Japan, which are performing Argentinian music. | 0:50:02 | 0:50:06 | |
Goodness me! And have you been before? | 0:50:06 | 0:50:08 | |
For us at least, it is our first time. | 0:50:08 | 0:50:10 | |
-So give us a little rendition. -Yes. | 0:50:10 | 0:50:13 | |
-What did he say? -Sing a little something. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:15 | |
Oh, right. What would that be? OK. | 0:50:15 | 0:50:19 | |
This is a traditional song. | 0:50:19 | 0:50:23 | |
HE SINGS A BALLAD | 0:50:24 | 0:50:29 | |
Wonderful, that's lovely, isn't it? | 0:50:45 | 0:50:47 | |
Isn't that fantastic? Oh, you'll have women melting all over the country. | 0:50:47 | 0:50:50 | |
I hope so! | 0:50:50 | 0:50:52 | |
Llangollen's wonderful eisteddfod. | 0:50:53 | 0:50:56 | |
Staying in the area, my journey has brought me to the White Water Active Centre, | 0:50:56 | 0:51:00 | |
but I'm not canoeing. I'm having a go at something called gorge walking. | 0:51:00 | 0:51:04 | |
Gorge walking involves climbing, crawling, sliding and even swimming your way | 0:51:05 | 0:51:10 | |
through a wonderfully wet Welsh gorge. | 0:51:10 | 0:51:12 | |
Our trip begins with a very slippery scramble, but I've stayed on my feet and so far managed to stay dry. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:22 | |
Our guide, Lee, assures me that I won't stay dry for much longer. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:26 | |
So, Lee, this is like the perfect way of making the natural environment into your playground. | 0:51:26 | 0:51:32 | |
Very much so. | 0:51:32 | 0:51:34 | |
It's good for people to experience this, | 0:51:34 | 0:51:36 | |
especially people who don't get an opportunity to | 0:51:36 | 0:51:38 | |
-in their day-to-day life. -And what sort of people do get coming here, doing this? | 0:51:38 | 0:51:42 | |
All walks of life. We take people, we take children down here, | 0:51:42 | 0:51:46 | |
we take kids in care down here - sort of rehab programmes, things like that, adults in care as well. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:53 | |
We take people with disabilities, | 0:51:53 | 0:51:55 | |
we've taken blind people down here. More or less everybody can do it. | 0:51:55 | 0:51:58 | |
-And what do people get out of doing something like this? -It depends on the person, obviously. | 0:51:58 | 0:52:03 | |
Some people, it's just an experience, something to chalk up. | 0:52:03 | 0:52:07 | |
Other people, it gives them something to improve their self-confidence and their self-worth in a lot of cases. | 0:52:07 | 0:52:12 | |
And do you ever tire of this magnificent landscape? | 0:52:12 | 0:52:15 | |
Not really. As soon as you end up going somewhere else and you come back, it's good to come back to. | 0:52:15 | 0:52:20 | |
The next part of our gorge walk involves crawling under a waterfall, | 0:52:20 | 0:52:24 | |
and I can assure you that water is absolutely freezing. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:31 | |
In a moment, I'm gonna be abseiling down that waterfall! | 0:52:31 | 0:52:35 | |
My journey across the spectacular landscape of North Wales | 0:52:37 | 0:52:40 | |
has taken me from the treacherous waters around Holyhead | 0:52:40 | 0:52:44 | |
through Llanfair PG and on to Capel Curig in the heart of Snowdonia. | 0:52:44 | 0:52:48 | |
I also visited the Gwydyr Forest | 0:52:48 | 0:52:51 | |
before ending my journey here in Llangollen. | 0:52:51 | 0:52:56 | |
Right now I'm soaking wet and freezing cold, | 0:52:56 | 0:52:58 | |
but that's the price you pay for the thrill of gorge walking, | 0:52:58 | 0:53:03 | |
and we're about to abseil down this dramatic waterfall. | 0:53:03 | 0:53:07 | |
OK, Lee, this is the bit we've been waiting for, this is the abseil. | 0:53:07 | 0:53:11 | |
So what do we need to know here? | 0:53:11 | 0:53:14 | |
-Right, have either of you abseiled before? -I've done a little bit, never down a waterfall, though. | 0:53:14 | 0:53:18 | |
My gorge-walking partner, Katie, gets to go first... | 0:53:18 | 0:53:23 | |
..and, apart from a slight slip, makes it look easy. | 0:53:25 | 0:53:28 | |
Very slippy, so you've got to walk slowly. Good. | 0:53:30 | 0:53:32 | |
Well done, Katie. | 0:53:34 | 0:53:36 | |
Oh, it's slippery. | 0:53:36 | 0:53:38 | |
Well done! Right, my turn! | 0:53:38 | 0:53:42 | |
'This is a potentially dangerous activity, | 0:53:42 | 0:53:44 | |
'and I wouldn't recommend anyone to try it without the proper safety equipment and training. | 0:53:44 | 0:53:49 | |
'On the plus side, abseiling down a waterfall is a first for me, | 0:53:51 | 0:53:56 | |
'and I can tell you it's truly exhilarating.' | 0:53:56 | 0:54:00 | |
You didn't need a shower this morning! | 0:54:00 | 0:54:02 | |
Well done! | 0:54:05 | 0:54:07 | |
I love this! | 0:54:10 | 0:54:11 | |
As if we aren't wet enough already, our final challenge is to plunge backwards into a pool of icy water. | 0:54:13 | 0:54:19 | |
What fun! | 0:54:19 | 0:54:21 | |
Well, I began this journey on a lifeboat off the glorious coast of Anglesey, | 0:54:21 | 0:54:26 | |
and I'm finishing it here in this magnificent canyon. | 0:54:26 | 0:54:31 | |
What a way to end! | 0:54:31 | 0:54:34 | |
Whoo-hoo-hoo! | 0:54:39 | 0:54:40 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:54:50 | 0:54:53 |