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Today I'm following the route of one of the main arteries in Britain - | 0:00:18 | 0:00:22 | |
the River Thames. | 0:00:22 | 0:00:23 | |
Steeped in history, teeming with wildlife and an inspiration to some of our finest novelists. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:30 | |
London provides many classic images of the Thames, | 0:00:35 | 0:00:38 | |
but England's capital is only a small part of its journey. | 0:00:38 | 0:00:41 | |
Rising in the Cotswolds, this mighty river winds and weaves for 214 miles | 0:00:41 | 0:00:48 | |
into the Thames Estuary at Southend-on-Sea. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:50 | |
I'll travel from Maidenhead to Stoke Row, near Reading, | 0:00:54 | 0:00:58 | |
and on to Goring, where I'll join the Thames Path to Sandford Lock. | 0:00:58 | 0:01:02 | |
Then it's up to Eynsham before ending my journey in the Cotswolds, | 0:01:02 | 0:01:06 | |
near the village of Bampton. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:08 | |
And along the way, I'll be looking back | 0:01:10 | 0:01:12 | |
at the very best of the BBC's rural programmes from this part of the world. | 0:01:12 | 0:01:15 | |
Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:18 | |
My journey begins in Maidenhead, | 0:01:20 | 0:01:21 | |
on board a double scull with the junior national rowing champion. | 0:01:21 | 0:01:26 | |
Ailsa, how long have you been rowing? | 0:01:26 | 0:01:30 | |
Five years this summer. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:31 | |
-Just five years? -Yep! -And you're a tender age anyway! | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
You must have been pretty young when you started? | 0:01:34 | 0:01:37 | |
-Yeah, about 13. -My goodness. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
-Even though you've only been doing it for five years, you are the national junior champion. -Yes. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:45 | |
What an incredible title. Do you intend to keep rowing and represent Britain? | 0:01:45 | 0:01:50 | |
-Yeah, definitely. -What's the next step up? | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
-Great Britain, really. -Wow. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
-And how are plans going for that? -Yes, good. | 0:01:55 | 0:01:57 | |
I'm back in full summer training now, starting some sprint work. | 0:01:57 | 0:02:01 | |
-What's it like, training and rowing on the Thames? -It's brilliant. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:06 | |
It's the iconic river of the sport, really. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:08 | |
There's the Henley Regatta and the Oxford-Cambridge race all on the Thames. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:13 | |
Have you got a favourite stretch? | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
I think anybody is drawn to the stretch that they train on, they know it so well. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:20 | |
So when it comes to the regattas on your stretch, | 0:02:20 | 0:02:22 | |
you know it like the back of your hand, you know how to steer it, | 0:02:22 | 0:02:26 | |
you know the best lane to take. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:28 | |
-Are we on that stretch now for you? -Yep. -A-ha. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
I can see why. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:33 | |
I can feel my arms are definitely getting worked. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:36 | |
What are the muscles that you work on when you do this rowing? | 0:02:36 | 0:02:39 | |
It's an all-body workout, really - | 0:02:39 | 0:02:42 | |
it's like swimming - but mostly your leg muscles. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:44 | |
-Mostly legs? -They're stronger muscles, so you're supposed to use them more than your arms. | 0:02:44 | 0:02:49 | |
My technique's all wrong. I'm definitely not using my legs! | 0:02:49 | 0:02:53 | |
It's a glorious day today and I'm having a lovely time, although I'm doing fairly badly. | 0:02:53 | 0:02:59 | |
But of course, this isn't how it always is, is it, for you? | 0:02:59 | 0:03:02 | |
-It's not glorious, sunny days all the time. -Not at all. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:05 | |
Talk to me about some of your training. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:07 | |
-In the winter... We train every day throughout the year. -Wow. | 0:03:07 | 0:03:12 | |
We have one day off. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:13 | |
-Even though you're a student, you train every day? -Sometimes two sessions a day. | 0:03:13 | 0:03:18 | |
-Goodness. In the winter, I presume that means in the dark. -Yep. | 0:03:18 | 0:03:23 | |
Seven o'clock, half past six, | 0:03:23 | 0:03:25 | |
weekend mornings out on the water just as it starts to get light. | 0:03:25 | 0:03:29 | |
Goodness, that's incredible dedication. I'm very impressed. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:33 | |
No wonder you're national champ. This river is absolutely beautiful. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:37 | |
It's glass flat, | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
it's a lovely day, | 0:03:39 | 0:03:42 | |
and although I'm pretty hopeless, | 0:03:42 | 0:03:44 | |
I'm having a really lovely time. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:47 | |
Oh! | 0:03:48 | 0:03:49 | |
-Oh, man! -Come on, Harrison! | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
'Enjoying a leisurely paddle with one of Britain's fastest rowers is an odd feeling, | 0:03:54 | 0:03:58 | |
'almost as if I'm holding her up a bit, especially when I keep losing my flow.' | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
If I lose my concentration for more than half a second, I've just lost the whole thing. | 0:04:02 | 0:04:08 | |
'Our jaunt on the river brings us to the famous Maidenhead Railway Bridge. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:13 | |
'It's the handiwork of a man whose name often crops up around bridges.' | 0:04:13 | 0:04:17 | |
The bridge was designed by the famous engineer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel in 1838. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:23 | |
The railway runs over two brick arches, | 0:04:23 | 0:04:27 | |
which, at the time, were the widest and the flattest in the world. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:31 | |
Brunel had a battle on his hands with the cynics of his day. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:35 | |
The board of the Great Western Railway simply couldn't believe | 0:04:35 | 0:04:39 | |
the arches would hold the weight of the trains | 0:04:39 | 0:04:42 | |
and ordered him to leave the wooden supports in place. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
But when they eventually washed away, the bridge didn't budge, | 0:04:45 | 0:04:48 | |
and finally proved the strength of Brunel's arches. | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
'As we face upstream, the right-hand arch is known as the Sounding Arch | 0:04:51 | 0:04:56 | |
'because of its impressive echo... | 0:04:56 | 0:04:58 | |
'which I couldn't resist trying out.' | 0:04:58 | 0:05:00 | |
-Hello! -VOICE ECHOES | 0:05:00 | 0:05:02 | |
-Hello! -VOICE ECHOES | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
Ben Fogle is no stranger to the River Thames. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:10 | |
He travelled here in 2005 to count the Queen's swans. | 0:05:10 | 0:05:14 | |
# As I went down in the river to pray | 0:05:14 | 0:05:17 | |
# Studyin' about that good old way... # | 0:05:17 | 0:05:21 | |
'For one week in midsummer, a group of men in red and blue blazers | 0:05:21 | 0:05:25 | |
'row in skiffs up the River Thames. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:28 | |
'These men are Her Majesty's Swan Uppers. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:31 | |
'I'm joining them for part of their journey, | 0:05:33 | 0:05:36 | |
'to search for swans and their cygnets, so that they can be checked and tagged. | 0:05:36 | 0:05:40 | |
'It's a traditional job that's been going on for centuries.' | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
'Swan Upping started in the 12th century.' | 0:05:44 | 0:05:48 | |
Of course, naturally then it was an important food source. | 0:05:48 | 0:05:53 | |
The Crown claimed all swans | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
in the United Kingdom, | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
and they've claimed swans ever since that date. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:02 | |
So, what exactly is Swan Upping? | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
Swan Upping is the way of monitoring the Thames' swans. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:09 | |
We go from Sunbury-on-Thames to Abingdon on a five-day journey. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:14 | |
'We have six Swan Uppers in each boat, | 0:06:14 | 0:06:17 | |
'and we'll go up the river | 0:06:17 | 0:06:19 | |
'and we'll lift each family of swans out of the river and we'll take them ashore. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:23 | |
'They'll be weighed, measured, checked, all for fishing tackle,' | 0:06:23 | 0:06:29 | |
and then a small ring will be put on their leg | 0:06:29 | 0:06:31 | |
so we can monitor them for the future. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:34 | |
'The first boat to spot a brood of swans gives a call of, "All up!" | 0:06:34 | 0:06:38 | |
'This signals that everyone should move in for the catch. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:41 | |
'The birds then have their feet and wings tied so they can be given a health check.' | 0:06:41 | 0:06:46 | |
-First thing I look for is to check whether we know who it is. -Right, so 12C? | 0:06:49 | 0:06:53 | |
Yes, it's got a metal ring with a long serial number on, | 0:06:53 | 0:06:58 | |
and it's got this one, which saves us trying to catch them, | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
and at other times of the year, we can read it in the water. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:05 | |
Just hold that there, do I? | 0:07:05 | 0:07:07 | |
'After the tagging comes the weighing.' | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
-And then you have to read it off. You need glasses! -I do...! | 0:07:10 | 0:07:13 | |
3.5? 3.5 kilograms. Shall I take that? | 0:07:13 | 0:07:18 | |
If I open it... | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
Do I lift it out? | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
-Yep. -Like that? | 0:07:23 | 0:07:26 | |
-That's fine. -Wow. There you go. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:29 | |
'The professor's been doing this since 1978. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:33 | |
'Back then, swans were dying at an alarming rate.' | 0:07:33 | 0:07:37 | |
A lot of the problems was lead-fishing weights | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
that they were swallowing and dying from lead poisoning. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
'Most of that, not all of it, has been stopped. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:45 | |
'The population is recovering quite well.' | 0:07:45 | 0:07:47 | |
'You've noticed an improvement through the years?' | 0:07:47 | 0:07:50 | |
'Yes, enormous. The first year I ever did the lower stretch, | 0:07:50 | 0:07:52 | |
'we caught one cygnet in the morning, | 0:07:52 | 0:07:55 | |
'and this year, we caught about 30.' | 0:07:55 | 0:07:57 | |
'Swan Upping used to be about claiming ownership over the birds. | 0:07:57 | 0:08:00 | |
'But now it's more focused on getting the word out about how we can protects swans.' | 0:08:00 | 0:08:05 | |
It's changed now, we're in modern days now. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:09 | |
It's a conservation exercise, where years ago, it was bread for the table | 0:08:09 | 0:08:14 | |
and people were eating the swans at these banquets. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
Now it's purely conservation. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:19 | |
'Of course, the swan has more of a difficult time now with all the boats on the rivers, | 0:08:19 | 0:08:24 | |
'their natural habitat disappearing, lots of fishermen around. | 0:08:24 | 0:08:28 | |
'So, it's quite a struggle.' | 0:08:28 | 0:08:29 | |
We lose, usually, probably about 40% of all the young cygnets that are born. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:35 | |
We lose them to fishing tackle problems, predators. | 0:08:35 | 0:08:38 | |
It's quite colossal, really. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
'The boats snake after one another upstream through the Thames' locks. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:47 | |
'There's a growing crowd watching from the shore, | 0:08:47 | 0:08:50 | |
'and they're making me a little nervous | 0:08:50 | 0:08:52 | |
'as I've been given the chance to get more hands-on with the swans.' | 0:08:52 | 0:08:56 | |
(Look at this!) I caught this myself. | 0:08:57 | 0:09:00 | |
-CROWD: -Aww! -Oh, listen to the, "Aww!" | 0:09:00 | 0:09:03 | |
Where shall I put this one? | 0:09:03 | 0:09:05 | |
Next door? | 0:09:05 | 0:09:07 | |
There you go. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:10 | |
Oh, dear. I didn't do very well, did I? Let's try again. | 0:09:10 | 0:09:14 | |
I failed on my first attempt. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:16 | |
That's not very good. I don't think I'll make a very good Swan Upper. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:19 | |
'Once it's weighed, I get some advice on the best way to carry a young cygnet.' | 0:09:21 | 0:09:26 | |
-You hold them that way, away from you. -Yep. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:31 | |
Because sometimes there's accidents. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:34 | |
'After the wise words, I meet some local children.' | 0:09:34 | 0:09:37 | |
Does anyone want to have a look at this one here? Stroke it very gently. | 0:09:37 | 0:09:41 | |
Is this the closest all of you have ever been to a swan? | 0:09:41 | 0:09:45 | |
-ALL: -Yes! -Once, I got pecked. | 0:09:45 | 0:09:48 | |
You haven't been packed by a swan, have you? | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
-I have, I have. -Have you? | 0:09:51 | 0:09:53 | |
I'm going to put this back in the water now. Say bye, everyone. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
-ALL: -Bye! | 0:09:56 | 0:09:58 | |
'But I've long forgotten Dave's advice to hold the cygnet's bottom away from me. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:09 | |
'Suddenly, it does what babies do best.' | 0:10:09 | 0:10:11 | |
Ooh! That's nice! | 0:10:12 | 0:10:13 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:10:13 | 0:10:15 | |
See? I didn't listen to him, did I? That will teach me. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:21 | |
'It's been a long day of catches, checks and releases.' | 0:10:21 | 0:10:26 | |
There you go. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:29 | |
'This year's cygnets face a tough struggle | 0:10:29 | 0:10:31 | |
'if they're going to survive and graduate from ugly ducklings into white swans. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:36 | |
'But they've had a good start in life, | 0:10:36 | 0:10:38 | |
'and at least these little birds | 0:10:38 | 0:10:40 | |
'are no longer destined for the cooking pot.' | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
A glorious day on the Thames, and no trip along this river would be complete | 0:10:43 | 0:10:47 | |
without seeing the brilliant white of swans | 0:10:47 | 0:10:51 | |
gliding the surface. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:53 | |
I've left Maidenhead behind | 0:10:53 | 0:10:55 | |
and travelled upstream to Stoke Row, just north of Reading. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:59 | |
Just a little way off the Thames Path, there's a structure | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
you wouldn't expect to find in rural Oxfordshire. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
This ornate well was built in 1864, thanks to the benevolence | 0:11:20 | 0:11:24 | |
of an Indian maharajah who took pity on the people of Stoke Row. | 0:11:24 | 0:11:28 | |
He'd been speaking to Edward Anderton Reade, | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
the British governor of India's northwest provinces and son of an Oxfordshire squire. | 0:11:31 | 0:11:36 | |
He told him the story of a boy on his father's estate | 0:11:36 | 0:11:40 | |
who'd been beaten for using the last of his family's water during a drought. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:44 | |
So the great king of modern-day Varanasi, a hot and humid region, | 0:11:44 | 0:11:49 | |
donated money to rainy old England. | 0:11:49 | 0:11:51 | |
Today it looks as good as new, | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
and its unusual story is well remembered locally. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
Its depth is greater than the height of Nelson's Column. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
The well was in use for 70 years | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
and provided 700 gallons of water per day. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:05 | |
The entire depth of the well was dug by hand. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:09 | |
The Queen owns an ivory replica of the well. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:12 | |
It takes ten minutes to wind a bucket up from the bottom. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:15 | |
The maharajah was apparently so touched by the story | 0:12:15 | 0:12:18 | |
that he financed the well | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
as well as the keeper's cottage and cherry orchard. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
This area has provided inspiration to some of our finest storytellers, | 0:12:24 | 0:12:28 | |
and in 2007, Michaela Strachan went on the Thames trail | 0:12:28 | 0:12:32 | |
of Kenneth Grahame, author of Wind In The Willows. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:36 | |
-READER: -"Never in his life had he seen a river before. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
"This sleek, sinuous, full-bodied animal, | 0:12:39 | 0:12:43 | |
"chasing and chuckling, gripping things with a gurgle | 0:12:43 | 0:12:46 | |
"and leaving them to fling itself on fresh playmates | 0:12:46 | 0:12:49 | |
"that shook themselves free and were caught and held again, | 0:12:49 | 0:12:52 | |
"all was a-shake and a-shiver, glints and gleams | 0:12:52 | 0:12:56 | |
"and sparkles, rustle and swirl, chatter and bubble..." | 0:12:56 | 0:13:00 | |
The River Thames has provided inspiration for all sorts of writers. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:04 | |
Charles Dickens, Lewis Carroll, | 0:13:04 | 0:13:06 | |
Jerome K Jerome. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:08 | |
But there's one author who lets the river flow through the book from start to finish. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:13 | |
This is Wind In The Willows country, | 0:13:13 | 0:13:15 | |
and I'm here to explore the world of Ratty, Mole, Badger and Mr Toad. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:21 | |
I'm travelling upriver along the Thames to follow in the footsteps of Kenneth Grahame. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:27 | |
I'm starting in Cookham, passing through Henley-on-Thames | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
before finishing up in Pangbourne. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:32 | |
Kenneth Grahame was born in Edinburgh in 1859, | 0:13:34 | 0:13:38 | |
but at the age of five, after the death of his mother, | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
he came to live in Cookham with his grandma, | 0:13:41 | 0:13:43 | |
to a beautiful old house called The Mount, with a rambling garden. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
For the rest of his life, the natural world became an escape | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
from a rather claustrophobic reality - | 0:13:51 | 0:13:54 | |
working for the Bank of England. | 0:13:54 | 0:13:56 | |
In 1906, just before he started to write his Wind In The Willows stories, | 0:13:58 | 0:14:03 | |
Kenneth Grahame moved back to Cookham Dean | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
to escape the pressures of working life in London. | 0:14:06 | 0:14:09 | |
This was the house he bought, the perfect place for his son | 0:14:09 | 0:14:13 | |
to experience the same sort of outdoor lifestyle that he himself had had. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:18 | |
So how did the book, Wind In the Willows, actually come about? | 0:14:18 | 0:14:22 | |
It started with a bedtime story to his son Alastair, | 0:14:22 | 0:14:25 | |
who they called Mouse. | 0:14:25 | 0:14:27 | |
This had been going on since Mouse was four, | 0:14:27 | 0:14:30 | |
but in the summer of 1907, | 0:14:30 | 0:14:31 | |
Kenneth and Elspeth decided that the little boy, Mouse, | 0:14:31 | 0:14:34 | |
should go on holiday to Littlehampton, | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
which they didn't like as a place, but they would go to Cornwall. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
So off went Alastair with his nanny. | 0:14:40 | 0:14:42 | |
But before he went, he said, "I must have the bedtime story. | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
"I'm not going unless I get the bedtime story!" | 0:14:45 | 0:14:47 | |
A stroppy little lad! So Kenneth said, "Well, all right. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:51 | |
"I'll tell you what I can do. I'll write them in letter form." | 0:14:51 | 0:14:54 | |
And so, here we have the hotel where they were in Cornwall, | 0:14:54 | 0:14:57 | |
the Fowey Hotel, the letterhead, 31st May 1907. | 0:14:57 | 0:15:01 | |
"My dearest Mouse, I hope you're quite well..." | 0:15:01 | 0:15:04 | |
And after a very few sentences about how Mouse is, | 0:15:04 | 0:15:07 | |
we're straight into the story of Toad. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:09 | |
These letters were kept, and eventually became The Wind In The Willows. | 0:15:09 | 0:15:13 | |
Kenneth added to them, added from early bedtime stories | 0:15:13 | 0:15:16 | |
and other chapters which he wrote towards the end of 1907, | 0:15:16 | 0:15:19 | |
and these were published as the Wind In The Willows in 1908. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
Are any of the characters in the book like the characters | 0:15:22 | 0:15:25 | |
-in his real life? -Very much so. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:27 | |
Toad was written initially as poking gentle fun at his son, | 0:15:27 | 0:15:32 | |
because his son was precocious and bumptious, | 0:15:32 | 0:15:34 | |
and he said, "You'll get your comeuppance like Mr Toad, so be a good boy." | 0:15:34 | 0:15:37 | |
The other characters are very much like Kenneth himself. | 0:15:37 | 0:15:40 | |
The shy, retiring, but rather gruff badger, | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
slightly at one, removed from the world, | 0:15:43 | 0:15:47 | |
and then Ratty, who loved boats - Kenneth adored boating and the river. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:51 | |
Then the little mole who, although a little animal, is actually quite keen to go on a big adventure. | 0:15:51 | 0:15:56 | |
In this book, Kenneth actually goes on a very big adventure. | 0:15:56 | 0:16:00 | |
-READER: -"It was a cold, still afternoon with a hard, steely sky overhead | 0:16:01 | 0:16:06 | |
"when he slipped out of the warm parlour into the open air. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:10 | |
"The country lay bare and entirely leafless around him. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:13 | |
"But with great cheerfulness of spirit, he pushed on towards the Wild Wood." | 0:16:13 | 0:16:18 | |
The scariest part of the book is the Wild Wood, | 0:16:18 | 0:16:22 | |
a place where stoats, weasels and foxes roamed. | 0:16:22 | 0:16:27 | |
"It led him on to where the light was less | 0:16:27 | 0:16:30 | |
"and trees crouched nearer and nearer, | 0:16:30 | 0:16:33 | |
"and holes made ugly mouths at him on either side." | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
This is a Quarry Wood in Cookham Dean, a place where Kenneth Grahame | 0:16:39 | 0:16:43 | |
would have spent many a day as a young boy, | 0:16:43 | 0:16:45 | |
and this is no doubt where he got his inspiration from. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:49 | |
It's hardly surprising that Mole and Ratty were so pleased | 0:16:49 | 0:16:52 | |
to find their friend Badger | 0:16:52 | 0:16:54 | |
in such a dark place so far from the river bank. | 0:16:54 | 0:16:57 | |
Here in Henley-on-Thames, it's easy to hire a rowing boat, | 0:17:05 | 0:17:08 | |
and as Ratty said, "There's nothing, | 0:17:08 | 0:17:11 | |
"absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." | 0:17:11 | 0:17:16 | |
"The mole, intoxicated with the sparkle, the ripple, | 0:17:18 | 0:17:22 | |
"the sense and the sounds and the sunlight, | 0:17:22 | 0:17:24 | |
"he trailed a paw in the water and dreamt long, waking dreams." | 0:17:24 | 0:17:29 | |
As a poet and a local resident, what does Wind In The Willows mean to you? | 0:17:29 | 0:17:34 | |
I think for all poets, all writers probably, the river | 0:17:34 | 0:17:39 | |
is one of the great literary metaphors. | 0:17:39 | 0:17:41 | |
I think people understand this even if they are not writers. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:44 | |
There is something elemental, | 0:17:44 | 0:17:46 | |
unchanging about the river. | 0:17:46 | 0:17:48 | |
You stand by the river and you have a kind of sense | 0:17:48 | 0:17:52 | |
that you are in the still centre of something. | 0:17:52 | 0:17:56 | |
I think Grahame picked up on that in Wind In The Willows. | 0:17:56 | 0:18:00 | |
You helped set up the Wind In The Willows exhibition in the Rowing Museum. | 0:18:00 | 0:18:04 | |
How did that come about? | 0:18:04 | 0:18:05 | |
I think the museum was really keen, | 0:18:05 | 0:18:08 | |
knowing that this is Grahame territory here in Henley, | 0:18:08 | 0:18:12 | |
and, of course, what's possible for visitors now | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
is that you can go round the exhibition | 0:18:15 | 0:18:18 | |
where the models are all based on EH Shepard's classic drawings. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:22 | |
They're his drawings brought to life, really - 3D. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:25 | |
You step outside onto the meadow and you see the river, the Thames, | 0:18:25 | 0:18:29 | |
which Ratty was so in love with, and it makes sense. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:33 | |
Further up the river passed Reading is Mapledurham, a fine stately home on the banks of the Thames. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:42 | |
Many say that this is the inspiration for the famous Toad Hall. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:46 | |
Wind In The Willows was not an overnight success. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:51 | |
It grew in popularity in 1929 when it was dramatised by AA Milne | 0:18:51 | 0:18:56 | |
as Toad Of Toad Hall, focusing on the animals, | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
especially Toad's exciting adventures. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:02 | |
-READER: -"A poetry of motion, the only way to travel. | 0:19:04 | 0:19:08 | |
"Here today - in next week tomorrow. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:10 | |
"Villages skipped, towns and cities jumped. Oh, bliss! | 0:19:10 | 0:19:16 | |
"Oh, poop, poop!" | 0:19:16 | 0:19:18 | |
This was Kenneth Grahame's final home, | 0:19:20 | 0:19:22 | |
where he lived from 1924, Church Cottage, another beautiful location | 0:19:22 | 0:19:27 | |
situated not far away from where the Thames meets the River Pang. | 0:19:27 | 0:19:32 | |
Is this typical Wind In The Willows habitat? | 0:19:33 | 0:19:36 | |
Yes. Over here you can see the wet woodland | 0:19:36 | 0:19:39 | |
with the hazel, the alder trees, the occasional big ash tree, | 0:19:39 | 0:19:42 | |
and it is exactly the kind of thing | 0:19:42 | 0:19:45 | |
that there would have been in Wind In The Willows. | 0:19:45 | 0:19:48 | |
How much has it changed over the last 100 years since the author wrote the book? | 0:19:48 | 0:19:52 | |
The habitat hasn't really changed. We've still got a lot of the species | 0:19:52 | 0:19:56 | |
that would have been in Wind In The Willows - the badgers, the weasels, the foxes. | 0:19:56 | 0:20:00 | |
Over there, you can see the molehills. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:02 | |
Unfortunately, the really sad thing is that we don't have the water voles here any more. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:07 | |
The water vole is Ratty from Wind In The Willows, | 0:20:07 | 0:20:10 | |
and seven to ten years ago | 0:20:10 | 0:20:11 | |
I would come here and find little holes in the ground, the burrows where the water voles lived. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:16 | |
But they are no longer here now. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:18 | |
Do you think Wind In The Willows has inspired people to want to protect this sort of area? | 0:20:18 | 0:20:23 | |
Very much so. We appealed to the public to get £250,000 to buy some more land over there. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:30 | |
It has been fantastic how members of the public have responded. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:35 | |
We raised over £300,000 to buy that land. | 0:20:35 | 0:20:38 | |
It's really Ratty and Wind In The Willows that inspired people. | 0:20:38 | 0:20:42 | |
People have logged on to our website, donated money from Canada, | 0:20:42 | 0:20:46 | |
America, France and New Zealand. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:48 | |
It has been fantastic | 0:20:48 | 0:20:50 | |
how people have embraced Ratty and Wind In The Willows. | 0:20:50 | 0:20:54 | |
Has the appeal enabled you to try to bring Ratty back to the area? | 0:20:54 | 0:20:58 | |
Very much so. The new land that we bought enables us to link | 0:20:58 | 0:21:04 | |
this site where the water voles were once living with a site a mile or two away | 0:21:04 | 0:21:09 | |
where they are still living in a healthy population. | 0:21:09 | 0:21:13 | |
I'm sure Kenneth Grahame would be delighted to know his book helped | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
the Wildlife Trust 100 years on from him writing it. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:19 | |
Definitely. I wish he could be here now to see it. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:22 | |
Hopefully, when we have the water voles back - with a bit of luck - | 0:21:22 | 0:21:25 | |
for hundreds of years more, people will be able to appreciate | 0:21:25 | 0:21:29 | |
all the creatures that are here from Wind In The Willows. | 0:21:29 | 0:21:33 | |
-READER: -"As he sat on the grass and looked, a dark hole in the bank opposite | 0:21:33 | 0:21:38 | |
"just above the water's edge caught his eye | 0:21:38 | 0:21:41 | |
"and dreamily he fell to considering what a nice, snug dwelling place it would make | 0:21:41 | 0:21:45 | |
"for an animal with few wants and fond of a bijou riverside residence | 0:21:45 | 0:21:49 | |
"above flood level, and remote from noise and dust." | 0:21:49 | 0:21:53 | |
Kenneth Grahame died here in Pangbourne in 1932. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:02 | |
Or, as his epitaph says, "He passed the river, | 0:22:02 | 0:22:06 | |
"leaving literature and childhood through him the more blessed for all time." | 0:22:06 | 0:22:11 | |
He certainly left a great wildlife literary trail behind him | 0:22:11 | 0:22:15 | |
and his story lives on in all of these locations. | 0:22:15 | 0:22:18 | |
I'm sure that the adventures of Mole, Ratty, Badger and Mr Toad | 0:22:18 | 0:22:23 | |
will continue to inspire and delight children for many generations to come. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:28 | |
-READER: -"Terribly sleepy Mole had to be escorted upstairs by his considerate host | 0:22:30 | 0:22:34 | |
"to the best bedroom, where he soon laid his head on his pillow in great peace and contentment | 0:22:34 | 0:22:41 | |
"knowing that his new-found friend, the river, was lapping the sill of his window." | 0:22:41 | 0:22:47 | |
The timeless words of Kenneth Grahame | 0:22:56 | 0:22:59 | |
who, through his memorable characters, captured the gentle pace of life on the Thames. | 0:22:59 | 0:23:04 | |
You can still catch that Wind In The Willows exhibition | 0:23:04 | 0:23:08 | |
at the River And Rowing Museum in Henley-on-Thames. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:11 | |
I've moved on from Stoke Row to link up with the Thames Path south of Goring. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:18 | |
What a spectacular view. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:24 | |
You can see the Thames from up here snaking off into the distance. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:29 | |
This is Hartslock Nature Reserve. | 0:23:35 | 0:23:37 | |
The Wildlife Trust recently bought an extra 15 acres | 0:23:37 | 0:23:40 | |
of neighbouring farmland, | 0:23:40 | 0:23:42 | |
which boosted the reserve to just over 25 acres. | 0:23:42 | 0:23:45 | |
That may not sound very big, but this small patch of grassland contains | 0:23:48 | 0:23:52 | |
over 2,000 different species of plants and animals, | 0:23:52 | 0:23:56 | |
including a rare monkey and a tiny lady. | 0:23:56 | 0:23:59 | |
They are rare types of orchid. | 0:23:59 | 0:24:02 | |
Back in the 1980s there were only a handful on this site, | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
but thanks to careful management by the local wildlife trust, | 0:24:05 | 0:24:08 | |
they've made a significant comeback. | 0:24:08 | 0:24:10 | |
Debbie Lewis is the reserve's ecology manager. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:13 | |
-Hi, Debbie. -Oh, good afternoon, Ellie. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:16 | |
Cowslips I know, but what are these beauties? | 0:24:16 | 0:24:19 | |
These are a special type of orchid, a Lady Orchid. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:23 | |
They are basically named after what they look like. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
It looks a little bit like a lady with a big bonnet | 0:24:26 | 0:24:30 | |
and little arms and a big skirt. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:32 | |
Now you point it out... It is actually quite detailed. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:34 | |
Yes, these are quite rare orchids. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:37 | |
They're found across the UK but in a variety of sites. | 0:24:37 | 0:24:41 | |
We also have some special orchids that are much rarer. | 0:24:41 | 0:24:45 | |
Goodness! Which are they? | 0:24:45 | 0:24:47 | |
The ones down here are a hybrid between the Lady Orchid | 0:24:47 | 0:24:51 | |
and a Monkey Orchid which also grows on the site. | 0:24:51 | 0:24:54 | |
The Monkey Orchids are very rare and only found on three sites in the UK. | 0:24:54 | 0:24:59 | |
Hybrids are only found on this site. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:02 | |
What makes this site so unique that they have colonised here? | 0:25:02 | 0:25:06 | |
It's not that they have colonised here. This is what is left over. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:11 | |
Monkey orchids and Lady orchids were spread wide across the country in all sorts of areas, | 0:25:11 | 0:25:16 | |
wherever there was chalk grassland, but because chalk grassland is being destroyed | 0:25:16 | 0:25:20 | |
and ploughed up - particularly after the Second World War - they have lost their habitat. | 0:25:20 | 0:25:25 | |
This is an island where they are left. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:27 | |
They must be protected here then? | 0:25:27 | 0:25:30 | |
Yes, not only is this a Wildlife Trust nature reserve, | 0:25:30 | 0:25:33 | |
they are also protected under the law, | 0:25:33 | 0:25:36 | |
so it is illegal for people to pick them. | 0:25:36 | 0:25:38 | |
Do you know how many you have here? | 0:25:38 | 0:25:40 | |
We actually know precisely how many we have here because every year, | 0:25:40 | 0:25:44 | |
a dedicated team of volunteers come out | 0:25:44 | 0:25:46 | |
and count each orchid individually. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:49 | |
Every single one?! | 0:25:49 | 0:25:50 | |
Every single orchid is counted, jotted down and noted | 0:25:50 | 0:25:54 | |
-so we know precisely how the population is doing. -How many are they? | 0:25:54 | 0:25:58 | |
-Last year, 2008, there were 477 orchids. -Precisely! | 0:25:58 | 0:26:02 | |
'When you think that there were once only seven orchids on this whole site, that's a big achievement.' | 0:26:04 | 0:26:10 | |
-Here we have... -Oh! -A rather tiny...Monkey Orchid. | 0:26:10 | 0:26:15 | |
It's quite early in the season so it's just coming out. | 0:26:15 | 0:26:18 | |
It's got lots of wiggly arms | 0:26:18 | 0:26:20 | |
and much longer legs and a teeny weeny tail. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:24 | |
Oh, yes. Although you have to use your imagination! | 0:26:24 | 0:26:27 | |
Yeah, later on in the season they look bigger | 0:26:27 | 0:26:30 | |
and slightly more obviously "monkey". | 0:26:30 | 0:26:32 | |
It's great to see such a thriving plant habitat | 0:26:41 | 0:26:44 | |
in the densely populated south-east. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:47 | |
It's an area where natural resources are under constant pressure. | 0:26:47 | 0:26:51 | |
In 2007, Miriam O'Reilly reported on plans for a new Thames reservoir. | 0:26:51 | 0:26:56 | |
These acres of farmland just south of Abingdon in Oxfordshire | 0:26:58 | 0:27:02 | |
could soon disappear under billions of gallons of water. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:05 | |
The biggest water company in the UK, Thames Water, | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
want to build a reservoir half the size of Windermere | 0:27:08 | 0:27:11 | |
on this very spot. | 0:27:11 | 0:27:12 | |
It would be the largest stretch of open water in the south of England. | 0:27:12 | 0:27:16 | |
The reservoir would cover an area of approximately four square miles | 0:27:19 | 0:27:23 | |
or about the same as 2,500 football pitches. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:28 | |
It is likely to cost £1 billion and will take around ten years to build. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:32 | |
Despite strong local opposition, Thames Water says the reservoir | 0:27:32 | 0:27:36 | |
is vital if future water supplies to the south-east are to be guaranteed. | 0:27:36 | 0:27:41 | |
We expect to have an additional 1.2 million customers | 0:27:43 | 0:27:47 | |
wanting water from us by 2030, and because we expect climate change | 0:27:47 | 0:27:52 | |
to give us hotter, drier summers and warmer, wetter winters. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:55 | |
Where will the water come from? | 0:27:55 | 0:27:57 | |
It will come from the River Thames just down there. | 0:27:57 | 0:28:00 | |
Hopefully, in 10 or 12 years' time, if we get permission to build the reservoir, | 0:28:00 | 0:28:04 | |
we will be extracting water at this time of year into that reservoir | 0:28:04 | 0:28:08 | |
to serve Swindon and Oxfordshire and London during the summer. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:11 | |
Thames Water are keen to convince local people that the reservoir would benefit the area. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:16 | |
Displays like this one show the design they are proposing. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:20 | |
Not surprisingly, the plans have been met with scepticism. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:26 | |
For those most affected, the reservoir threatens their livelihood. | 0:28:26 | 0:28:30 | |
Bob Tyrrell's family has farmed the land at Steventon for over 200 years | 0:28:33 | 0:28:38 | |
but part of it lies in the area earmarked for the reservoir. | 0:28:38 | 0:28:42 | |
We would probably lose over half our land. | 0:28:42 | 0:28:44 | |
It may not leave enough for us to continue farming | 0:28:44 | 0:28:47 | |
or for me and my son to get a living | 0:28:47 | 0:28:50 | |
so we don't really know what we're going to do. | 0:28:50 | 0:28:53 | |
This is where the reservoir will be. There is winter wheat growing there at the moment. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:58 | |
That's right, this is winter wheat. | 0:28:58 | 0:29:00 | |
Unfortunately, this is one of our best fields. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:03 | |
We will lose this 110-acre field. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:06 | |
It is just going to be devastating. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:08 | |
As well as laying waste to hundreds of acres of high-quality agricultural land, | 0:29:11 | 0:29:15 | |
there are concerns that swamping a huge area | 0:29:15 | 0:29:19 | |
will damage the environment, displace wildlife and destroy habitats. | 0:29:19 | 0:29:24 | |
This is a very big project. It is four square miles, | 0:29:26 | 0:29:30 | |
its floor area is around the same size as the town of Abingdon. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:34 | |
There is a huge embankment surrounding it. It is 80ft high. | 0:29:34 | 0:29:38 | |
The church tower behind us is only 50ft high. So we're talking 30ft higher than that. | 0:29:38 | 0:29:44 | |
It is a massive project and would totally change the character of the landscape. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:49 | |
What impact will the reservoir have on wildlife habitats? | 0:29:49 | 0:29:52 | |
The reservoir will be very destructive of the landscape around here. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:56 | |
There is a lot of wildlife in it. | 0:29:56 | 0:29:58 | |
It is true to say there are no so-called "triple SI" - | 0:29:58 | 0:30:01 | |
Sites of Special Scientific Interest - | 0:30:01 | 0:30:03 | |
and that is one of the reasons why Thames Water chose this site. | 0:30:03 | 0:30:07 | |
But it is quite a rich marshland | 0:30:07 | 0:30:10 | |
and it's part of the community and part of the village landscape. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:15 | |
The Environment Agency believes water companies aren't doing enough | 0:30:17 | 0:30:21 | |
to make the public more aware of water conservation. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:24 | |
What people need is information and advice | 0:30:24 | 0:30:27 | |
so they can take ownership of the water-use issue. | 0:30:27 | 0:30:30 | |
I don't think water companies do enough | 0:30:30 | 0:30:33 | |
to provide information to customers | 0:30:33 | 0:30:34 | |
so they can take those options. | 0:30:34 | 0:30:36 | |
The reservoir, though, is being created in Oxfordshire. | 0:30:36 | 0:30:39 | |
It is supposed to, according to Thames Water, be the solution | 0:30:39 | 0:30:44 | |
to future water shortages in the south-east. Do you buy that? | 0:30:44 | 0:30:48 | |
Well, looking ahead, I mentioned the 60,000 new homes a year. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:53 | |
We believe we will need new water resources in the south-east | 0:30:53 | 0:30:57 | |
and that may be reservoirs or desalination plants. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:00 | |
It could be more re-use of our sewage effluent. | 0:31:00 | 0:31:02 | |
Those are all options to increase supply, but we have to press home reducing demand | 0:31:02 | 0:31:07 | |
and we think water companies need to show a lot more energy and interest in reducing demand, | 0:31:07 | 0:31:13 | |
whether that's leakage - and Thames Water have a big programme on leakage - | 0:31:13 | 0:31:17 | |
but they haven't hit their targets for the last three years | 0:31:17 | 0:31:20 | |
and they have to deliver on some of their promises. | 0:31:20 | 0:31:23 | |
Last year, Thames Water's profits reached £386 million, | 0:31:23 | 0:31:27 | |
the largest figure of any water company | 0:31:27 | 0:31:29 | |
and there are those who believe that they are building the reservoir to make more money. | 0:31:29 | 0:31:35 | |
It is going to cost about £1 billion. | 0:31:35 | 0:31:38 | |
If that goes into building this huge grass/earth box in the countryside, | 0:31:38 | 0:31:43 | |
it goes into their balance sheet and adds value to the business. | 0:31:43 | 0:31:47 | |
If they spend it on repairing the water mains in London, | 0:31:47 | 0:31:51 | |
it reduces their profits by spending that money over several years. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:55 | |
I think there might be some financial motive behind it | 0:31:55 | 0:31:59 | |
in that the way they are choosing to do it will add value to the business. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:03 | |
That is their plan - to grow their business? | 0:32:03 | 0:32:05 | |
That is my guess. I haven't had a satisfactory answer to that. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:08 | |
I'd like to hear Thames Water address it. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:10 | |
Is Thames Water building its business? | 0:32:10 | 0:32:12 | |
Is it improving its assets by creating this reservoir in Oxfordshire? | 0:32:12 | 0:32:16 | |
We our improving our service to our customers by making sure that by 2020 | 0:32:16 | 0:32:20 | |
we can continue to supply them with water | 0:32:20 | 0:32:22 | |
and we don't have to restrict their use with hosepipe bans or, worse, water rationing | 0:32:22 | 0:32:27 | |
if we get long, dry spells that we are forecast to get under climate change scenarios. | 0:32:27 | 0:32:32 | |
As of March this year, that project has been put on hold until 2026 at the earliest. | 0:32:33 | 0:32:39 | |
The economic downturn has meant that fewer houses are being built, | 0:32:39 | 0:32:44 | |
meaning the pressure for water has eased for now. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:47 | |
But climate change means water shortages are an ever-growing global concern | 0:32:47 | 0:32:52 | |
and the idea of a Thames reservoir may not be out of the spotlight for long. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:55 | |
I'm journeying along a stretch of the River Thames. | 0:33:02 | 0:33:04 | |
I started out at Maidenhead, | 0:33:04 | 0:33:06 | |
rowing under the magnificent Brunel railway bridge, | 0:33:06 | 0:33:09 | |
before heading to Stoke Row | 0:33:09 | 0:33:12 | |
and picking up the Thames Path near Goring. | 0:33:12 | 0:33:14 | |
I'm getting back on the water | 0:33:14 | 0:33:16 | |
for the next leg of my journey to Sandford Lock. | 0:33:16 | 0:33:19 | |
So far, my journey has been under my own steam, | 0:33:22 | 0:33:24 | |
but if I wanted to walk the whole of the Thames Path, | 0:33:24 | 0:33:27 | |
it would take me two weeks. | 0:33:27 | 0:33:28 | |
Instead, it's time to relax on this beautiful narrow boat. | 0:33:28 | 0:33:31 | |
-Hello there. -Hi. -Nice to meet you. -Carol is waiting for you. -Thanks. | 0:33:31 | 0:33:36 | |
'Paul Stephens and Carol Tidy swapped a cottage | 0:33:38 | 0:33:41 | |
'for a 57ft long, 10ft wide boat four years ago. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:44 | |
'But this is no retirement project. | 0:33:44 | 0:33:47 | |
'They both have a full-time jobs and still commute by road, | 0:33:47 | 0:33:51 | |
'leaving their floating home moored up in nearby Sutton Courtenay.' | 0:33:51 | 0:33:54 | |
Hello. How are you? | 0:33:54 | 0:33:56 | |
'The rest of their time is spent cruising up and down the Thames.' | 0:33:56 | 0:33:59 | |
This is beautiful in here. What was it that made you decide to not be on land any more | 0:33:59 | 0:34:04 | |
and take up a life on a boat? | 0:34:04 | 0:34:06 | |
First of all, we went on a boating holiday which we loved so much | 0:34:06 | 0:34:10 | |
we decided we would quite like to live on a boat. | 0:34:10 | 0:34:13 | |
That's how it started. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:14 | |
But you guys aren't retired, are you? You still have all the practicalities of commuting. | 0:34:14 | 0:34:19 | |
Yes, we've still got full-time jobs | 0:34:19 | 0:34:21 | |
but we still need to get away | 0:34:21 | 0:34:23 | |
from the everyday life, like traffic lights, | 0:34:23 | 0:34:26 | |
the city of Oxford, things like that. The hustle and bustle. | 0:34:26 | 0:34:29 | |
What would you say are the best bits of having made this move? | 0:34:29 | 0:34:33 | |
What is great about life on the water? | 0:34:33 | 0:34:35 | |
The peacefulness, the views of the river, the sun coming up in the morning, the mist... | 0:34:35 | 0:34:41 | |
-What about you, Paul? -I like everything about it. I mean... | 0:34:41 | 0:34:45 | |
I love waking up in the morning and you hear noises at the side of the boat and you wonder what it is. | 0:34:46 | 0:34:51 | |
It's the birds pecking the algae off the side of the boat at half past four on a summer's morning. | 0:34:51 | 0:34:56 | |
Things like that. You open the hatch wide every morning, there's always something happening. | 0:34:56 | 0:35:02 | |
New chicks, swans, geese fighting, things like that. | 0:35:02 | 0:35:05 | |
When it pours with rain on the roof and you're in bed, it's so peaceful it sends you to sleep. | 0:35:05 | 0:35:09 | |
-It's lovely. -Fantastic. | 0:35:09 | 0:35:11 | |
-And what is it about the Thames that you love? -It's a beautiful river. | 0:35:11 | 0:35:16 | |
We've been down to London, we've been up to Lechlade. We've travelled the whole lot, really. | 0:35:16 | 0:35:20 | |
So you've seen it all? | 0:35:20 | 0:35:22 | |
-We have, yes. Every stretch of the Thames. -Fantastic. | 0:35:22 | 0:35:26 | |
You've brought Millie. How did she adapt to life on the water? | 0:35:26 | 0:35:29 | |
Well, she loves the water. | 0:35:29 | 0:35:31 | |
She swims, we take her for walks down the river bank, | 0:35:31 | 0:35:35 | |
throw a stick, she's in. | 0:35:35 | 0:35:37 | |
And she loves running up and down the top of the boat. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:39 | |
Yes, she loves it. | 0:35:39 | 0:35:41 | |
She's got a nice life. | 0:35:41 | 0:35:43 | |
We bought the boat and Millie the same year. | 0:35:43 | 0:35:46 | |
It was within a couple of months, because we always wanted a springer spaniel and the boat. | 0:35:46 | 0:35:51 | |
We're just about to head into the lock, so lifejackets on. | 0:36:16 | 0:36:19 | |
I heard this amazing fact about Sandford Lock from a local boatman, and that is when it's full, | 0:36:19 | 0:36:24 | |
the water level is a foot higher than the cross on top of the dome of St Paul's Cathedral. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:29 | |
It's the second-highest lock on the Thames. | 0:36:30 | 0:36:32 | |
What fascinates me about these locks is just how old they are. | 0:36:36 | 0:36:40 | |
Huge feats of engineering, way before the Industrial Age was born. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:45 | |
Sandford Lock was one of the first to be built on the Thames, in 1630. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:49 | |
-Thanks for the lift, Carol. -You're welcome. -Thanks. Cheers. | 0:37:06 | 0:37:09 | |
-Bye. -Thanks, see you again. | 0:37:09 | 0:37:11 | |
'I'm back on the Thames Path following in the footsteps | 0:37:11 | 0:37:13 | |
'of all those writers who've found this river such an inspiration.' | 0:37:13 | 0:37:17 | |
As we're so close to Oxford, it's not surprising | 0:37:17 | 0:37:20 | |
that there are so many literary connections in the area. | 0:37:20 | 0:37:24 | |
Back in 1991, John Craven reported on an argument between natural and literary conservationists | 0:37:24 | 0:37:30 | |
over the management of an Oxfordshire Woodland that inspired CS Lewis' Narnia stories. | 0:37:30 | 0:37:35 | |
Welcome to Narnia, or at least to Narnia Woods. | 0:37:58 | 0:38:03 | |
This small pocket of woodland on the outskirts of Oxford is said to have been the inspiration | 0:38:03 | 0:38:08 | |
for the imaginary world created by CS Lewis | 0:38:08 | 0:38:12 | |
in his classic children's books The Chronicles Of Narnia. | 0:38:12 | 0:38:16 | |
The author planted the trees himself, | 0:38:16 | 0:38:18 | |
and now this place has become a kind of memorial to his imagination. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:23 | |
But it's also a nature reserve and it's now the unlikely setting | 0:38:23 | 0:38:27 | |
of a battle, between literary conservationists and nature conservationists. | 0:38:27 | 0:38:32 | |
CS Lewis was an Oxford don who found wider fame with books like The Lion, The Witch And The Wardrobe. | 0:38:32 | 0:38:39 | |
He loved the countryside, and 60 years ago he started planting this plot just a few yards from his home. | 0:38:39 | 0:38:44 | |
He died in 1963. | 0:38:44 | 0:38:47 | |
Today the President of the CS Lewis Society is David Dodds. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:51 | |
Why did Lewis decide to plant this wood? | 0:38:51 | 0:38:54 | |
Lewis was always a great outdoorsman. | 0:38:54 | 0:38:58 | |
He loved to go on country walks, walking holidays, | 0:38:58 | 0:39:01 | |
and the prospect of having his own land | 0:39:01 | 0:39:03 | |
and being able to have his own wood on it was a great joy to him. | 0:39:03 | 0:39:07 | |
'Lewis planted a wide variety, including non-native species | 0:39:07 | 0:39:10 | |
'like larch, sycamore, and even bamboo, | 0:39:10 | 0:39:13 | |
'because his brother had spent some time in China.' | 0:39:13 | 0:39:16 | |
The wood thrived, and more than 20 years ago, it was bought | 0:39:16 | 0:39:19 | |
by the Berkshire, Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire Naturalists Trust, | 0:39:19 | 0:39:23 | |
known more simply as BBONT. | 0:39:23 | 0:39:25 | |
For a long time, they left Narnia Woods just as Lewis had created them. | 0:39:25 | 0:39:29 | |
More recently, they decided to get rid of all the foreign trees, | 0:39:29 | 0:39:33 | |
to create space to plant oaks, ash and rowans, | 0:39:33 | 0:39:36 | |
much to the annoyance of David Dodds, who lives in the author's old home. | 0:39:36 | 0:39:41 | |
I woke to the sound of chain saws so I came up and said, | 0:39:41 | 0:39:44 | |
"Look, you can't do this. Please don't do this." | 0:39:44 | 0:39:48 | |
And I sat there on a stump, reading CS Lewis, | 0:39:48 | 0:39:50 | |
while they chopped down another tree, at least. | 0:39:50 | 0:39:53 | |
Did you win that little battle? | 0:39:53 | 0:39:56 | |
Well, they chopped some trees down and I saved some, so... | 0:39:56 | 0:39:59 | |
Why do you object so strongly to BBONT's conservation plans for this wood? | 0:39:59 | 0:40:04 | |
Well, I realise conservation is important, but Lewis deliberately preserved a certain mix of trees, | 0:40:04 | 0:40:11 | |
including keeping sycamores, including keeping larches, and I think that should be respected. | 0:40:11 | 0:40:16 | |
It's possible to practise preservation and conservation together. | 0:40:16 | 0:40:19 | |
BBONT say the place is overgrown and they believe that CS Lewis would have | 0:40:19 | 0:40:23 | |
approved their plans to bring in new life to his woods. | 0:40:23 | 0:40:26 | |
They contend that if they don't thin the trees, the dense cover will mean | 0:40:26 | 0:40:30 | |
very little will survive in years to come on the floor of the wood. | 0:40:30 | 0:40:34 | |
BBONT's objective is to preserve a better future for wildlife. | 0:40:34 | 0:40:38 | |
This is a nature reserve, one of more than 100 | 0:40:38 | 0:40:42 | |
that we have throughout the three counties. | 0:40:42 | 0:40:44 | |
So our objective here is certainly not to destroy the woodland at all. | 0:40:44 | 0:40:48 | |
It's a lovely piece of woodland on the outskirts of Oxford. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:51 | |
But to enhance and enrich it a little so that it can support | 0:40:51 | 0:40:55 | |
a much greater variety of wildlife than it does now. | 0:40:55 | 0:40:57 | |
But couldn't you make an exception here and just keep it as it was? | 0:40:57 | 0:41:01 | |
The problem that we face as a wildlife conservation organisation | 0:41:01 | 0:41:05 | |
is that we're here for nature conservation purposes. | 0:41:05 | 0:41:09 | |
If we were to say that we were not going to try to do what we're doing here under a proper management plan, | 0:41:09 | 0:41:16 | |
there wouldn't be a lot of point in BBONT having an interest in this site. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:20 | |
That's the dilemma we face. | 0:41:20 | 0:41:22 | |
But certainly, we need to talk more with the CS Lewis Society about this | 0:41:22 | 0:41:26 | |
and we do plan to have a meeting with them very soon. | 0:41:26 | 0:41:28 | |
-Will you resolve it? -I hope we do. I think that we should. | 0:41:28 | 0:41:31 | |
The whole objective of conservation these days | 0:41:31 | 0:41:34 | |
is to work in partnership with others, so we must resolve it. | 0:41:34 | 0:41:37 | |
Nearly two decades later, that woodland is managed and protected | 0:41:39 | 0:41:43 | |
by Berkshire, Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire Wildlife Trust, | 0:41:43 | 0:41:47 | |
who say they're still working to maintain a diverse and healthy mix of trees. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:52 | |
So far, my Thames journey has taken me | 0:41:55 | 0:41:58 | |
from Maidenhead to Stoke Row near Reading, | 0:41:58 | 0:42:01 | |
on to Goring where I joined the Thames Path. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:04 | |
Then I took to the water through Sandford Lock | 0:42:04 | 0:42:06 | |
and I'm now travelling along the river just south of Eynsham. | 0:42:06 | 0:42:10 | |
This Georgian bridge at Swinford, | 0:42:10 | 0:42:12 | |
made from the famous honey-coloured stone, | 0:42:12 | 0:42:15 | |
was built in 1769 to replace a ferry. | 0:42:15 | 0:42:18 | |
It's a secluded little spot, the tranquillity shared only with the cows. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:27 | |
It's hard to believe | 0:42:28 | 0:42:30 | |
that this beautiful old bridge is at the centre of a massive row. | 0:42:30 | 0:42:34 | |
Oh, yes, it feels all peaceful and calm down here, | 0:42:34 | 0:42:38 | |
but it's up there that's the problem. | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
It's because there's a 5p toll to cross the bridge. | 0:42:46 | 0:42:49 | |
Now, 5p won't break the bank but the time it takes for motorists to pull up, | 0:42:49 | 0:42:54 | |
rummage around for coins, wind their window down, pay the toll collector, wait for change | 0:42:54 | 0:42:59 | |
and drive off again, is causing huge tailbacks every morning and evening. | 0:42:59 | 0:43:04 | |
This is the B4044. | 0:43:06 | 0:43:08 | |
It's the main route into Oxford from commuter villages like Witney, Eynsham and Burford | 0:43:08 | 0:43:14 | |
and it's estimated that 10,000 cars cross this bridge every single day. | 0:43:14 | 0:43:19 | |
It's a beautiful bridge, lovely crossing over the Thames. | 0:43:19 | 0:43:22 | |
I just wish they'd collect the money faster. | 0:43:22 | 0:43:25 | |
It's old-fashioned. It ought to be done away with. | 0:43:25 | 0:43:27 | |
You have to have a 5p. If you don't have that, you're stuck. | 0:43:27 | 0:43:31 | |
I'm afraid it's a bit of a bottleneck. | 0:43:31 | 0:43:33 | |
I think it's frustration. | 0:43:33 | 0:43:35 | |
It's a lovely piece of architecture but it hassles us every day. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:39 | |
I think the bridge is quite unusual. | 0:43:39 | 0:43:42 | |
In all the places I travel around the country, | 0:43:42 | 0:43:45 | |
I don't see many of these. | 0:43:45 | 0:43:47 | |
It's time they built a new one. It's a pain in the bum in the mornings. | 0:43:47 | 0:43:50 | |
It's queued right back into Eynsham. | 0:43:50 | 0:43:52 | |
I'm not sure where the 5p goes, and that might help - a little sign telling us what the 5p is used for! | 0:43:52 | 0:43:58 | |
The answer is that all these 5ps, | 0:43:58 | 0:44:01 | |
which add up to around £500 a day, go towards the upkeep of the bridge. | 0:44:01 | 0:44:06 | |
Except on public holidays, when the money is donated to charity. | 0:44:06 | 0:44:10 | |
Having done a quick straw poll of opinion, I'm heading back to my quiet spot | 0:44:12 | 0:44:16 | |
to meet the woman who's leading the campaign to make Swinford Bridge toll-free. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:21 | |
And she doesn't pull any punches. | 0:44:21 | 0:44:24 | |
So, Jane, what's your problem with the bridge? | 0:44:24 | 0:44:27 | |
My problem with the bridge is that the real cost of it | 0:44:27 | 0:44:33 | |
is much more than the 5p toll. | 0:44:33 | 0:44:35 | |
It's a complete waste of time. | 0:44:35 | 0:44:37 | |
Is there some argument for it being a quaint English tradition? | 0:44:37 | 0:44:41 | |
You pay the bridge man 5p. | 0:44:41 | 0:44:43 | |
I've never bought the tradition argument. | 0:44:43 | 0:44:45 | |
If anyone wheels out the old tradition argument, | 0:44:45 | 0:44:47 | |
it doesn't cut the mustard with me. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:49 | |
So if you don't buy into the tradition argument, do you not buy into the idea | 0:44:49 | 0:44:53 | |
that we should all just slow down, that everybody's racing around all the time. | 0:44:53 | 0:44:56 | |
Absolutely! Yes, absolutely! | 0:44:56 | 0:44:58 | |
So sitting in traffic's not that bad? | 0:44:58 | 0:45:00 | |
Well, why add to our stress levels by having to sit in a queue every morning and every evening? | 0:45:00 | 0:45:05 | |
And what's your personal experience of commuting on the bridge? | 0:45:05 | 0:45:08 | |
You see, I've found my own solution. | 0:45:08 | 0:45:11 | |
After 13 years of wasting my life in the queues, | 0:45:11 | 0:45:14 | |
I decided that I would buy myself a small motorcycle. | 0:45:14 | 0:45:19 | |
So now I just filter steadily and calmly and stress-free | 0:45:19 | 0:45:23 | |
past the queues of traffic. | 0:45:23 | 0:45:25 | |
I don't pay the toll, | 0:45:25 | 0:45:27 | |
and I can get to work in 17 minutes rather than 50. | 0:45:27 | 0:45:30 | |
But on the other side of the bridge lies the other side of the story. | 0:45:30 | 0:45:34 | |
To find out why this unusual toll has stood the test of time, | 0:45:34 | 0:45:38 | |
I'm going to meet a local journalist and historian | 0:45:38 | 0:45:41 | |
who can explain the success of the Swinford toll bridge. | 0:45:41 | 0:45:44 | |
-Hi, Chris. Good to meet you. How are you? -Very well, thanks. -Good. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:52 | |
You've written lots of articles on the history of the toll bridge and the debate. | 0:45:52 | 0:45:56 | |
Legally, is there anything that can be done to change the toll bridge? | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
Well, it would take an Act of Parliament. | 0:46:00 | 0:46:03 | |
Which seems rather extreme. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:05 | |
And...it was introduced and sewn up so that it still exists now, | 0:46:05 | 0:46:10 | |
by probably the most famous lawyer who ever existed, | 0:46:10 | 0:46:14 | |
Sir William Blackstone, | 0:46:14 | 0:46:16 | |
when he had his hat on as estate manager for the Earl of Abingdon. | 0:46:16 | 0:46:21 | |
In most cases there was a time limit, or some way whereby pontage, as it was called - | 0:46:23 | 0:46:28 | |
the toll is called pontage - could run out, and they could get it back. | 0:46:28 | 0:46:32 | |
But he was so clever that it's sewn up, really, for ever. | 0:46:32 | 0:46:36 | |
You must be able to understand the frustration of sitting in traffic for a 5p toll. | 0:46:36 | 0:46:42 | |
It seems maddening in this day and age. | 0:46:42 | 0:46:44 | |
-Not only do I understand it, I've experienced it a lot. -Yes. | 0:46:44 | 0:46:48 | |
Of course it's frustrating, but it's quirky and I quite... | 0:46:48 | 0:46:54 | |
In some ways I quite enjoy it. | 0:46:54 | 0:46:56 | |
In fact, I took some German people from Hanover... | 0:46:56 | 0:47:01 | |
here, and we were in a hurry to catch a train because they had to go back to Germany, | 0:47:01 | 0:47:06 | |
to get the train from Oxford. They were fascinated by it. | 0:47:06 | 0:47:10 | |
They said this could only happen in England. | 0:47:10 | 0:47:12 | |
When I explained the history of how George III had allowed this bridge to be built... | 0:47:12 | 0:47:17 | |
Of course, George III was also King of Hanover, and they said where they came from you wouldn't get | 0:47:17 | 0:47:22 | |
a link to history like that, and they were absolutely fascinated by it. | 0:47:22 | 0:47:26 | |
I'm told that one person or another | 0:47:34 | 0:47:36 | |
has been campaigning against the bridge for the past 100 years. | 0:47:36 | 0:47:41 | |
Given how solid the stonework is... | 0:47:41 | 0:47:43 | |
Hi there. Thanks, cheers. | 0:47:43 | 0:47:45 | |
..and how solid the paperwork is, | 0:47:45 | 0:47:47 | |
it looks like they're going to be campaigning for many years to come. | 0:47:47 | 0:47:51 | |
I'm travelling along the Thames Path | 0:47:58 | 0:48:01 | |
and my route has edged into the Cotswolds. | 0:48:01 | 0:48:04 | |
Driving through Bampton, it leaps out at you straight away, | 0:48:04 | 0:48:07 | |
this typically English town filled with that oh-so-familiar golden stone. | 0:48:07 | 0:48:12 | |
And not wanting to stray too far from my path, | 0:48:12 | 0:48:15 | |
the Thames is never far away. | 0:48:15 | 0:48:17 | |
I've experienced a Thames lock from a boatman's point of view | 0:48:20 | 0:48:23 | |
but I've come to see it from the other side by trying my hand at lock keeping. | 0:48:23 | 0:48:28 | |
There are 45 locks lifting and lowering boats along the Thames. | 0:48:28 | 0:48:33 | |
The height of their falls range from less than a metre to almost three metres. | 0:48:33 | 0:48:37 | |
Rushey Lock is 113 years old. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:41 | |
Making sure all those boats have a safe and smooth passage | 0:48:41 | 0:48:45 | |
is lock-keeper Graham Margesson. | 0:48:45 | 0:48:47 | |
Hello, Rushey Lock. | 0:48:47 | 0:48:49 | |
He's been a lock keeper on the Thames for 40 years. | 0:48:49 | 0:48:52 | |
The cottage here at Rushey Lock has been his home for the last 25 of them. | 0:48:52 | 0:48:57 | |
Just minutes after I arrive, it's time to get to work. There's a boat coming. | 0:48:57 | 0:49:01 | |
There's always a little bit of water will have drained in there. | 0:49:01 | 0:49:05 | |
-We won't be able to push it open until it's completely empty. -It's quite heavy! | 0:49:05 | 0:49:10 | |
But gently. | 0:49:10 | 0:49:12 | |
Look at those biceps. | 0:49:16 | 0:49:17 | |
ELLIE LAUGHS | 0:49:19 | 0:49:21 | |
-Got to move quickly. -What we do, | 0:49:23 | 0:49:25 | |
we always open the sluice on the same side as the boat first | 0:49:25 | 0:49:29 | |
because the angle of the gate, we send the water on the outside of it. | 0:49:29 | 0:49:33 | |
That's it. Keep going, keep going. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:37 | |
-That's it. Carry on. -More? -Just... | 0:49:41 | 0:49:43 | |
See you later. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:47 | |
Cheers. All the best to you. | 0:49:47 | 0:49:50 | |
We didn't even have a chance to chat. | 0:49:54 | 0:49:56 | |
We got straight to action, there, Graham. That was great fun. | 0:49:56 | 0:49:59 | |
-You've been lock keeping for 40 years. -Yes, 40 years. | 0:49:59 | 0:50:02 | |
What made you decide to start? | 0:50:02 | 0:50:04 | |
I used to do something different. | 0:50:04 | 0:50:06 | |
-What were you? -I was in the catering trade. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:09 | |
-Oh, right. -I was a chef. | 0:50:09 | 0:50:10 | |
That's a very different life. | 0:50:10 | 0:50:12 | |
What was the reason for that? | 0:50:12 | 0:50:14 | |
Just long hours... I suddenly thought, "You're only here once. | 0:50:14 | 0:50:18 | |
"Make the most of it." I was born and brought up near Richmond Lock. I always spent my time on the river. | 0:50:18 | 0:50:24 | |
Just went to Teddington Lock, | 0:50:24 | 0:50:26 | |
told me that if I saw the inspector, I could sign up. | 0:50:26 | 0:50:30 | |
There was a waiting list and I just kept pestering the inspector. | 0:50:31 | 0:50:36 | |
And he said, "You must be keen. | 0:50:36 | 0:50:38 | |
-"We'll push you in the front of the queue." -Goodness. | 0:50:38 | 0:50:41 | |
I've never regretted it. Wouldn't have done any other job. | 0:50:41 | 0:50:45 | |
You must have seen some changes in the lock over the last 40 years. | 0:50:45 | 0:50:48 | |
I think one of the biggest ones for me is, in the '60s, late '60s, '70s, in the '80s, | 0:50:48 | 0:50:55 | |
we used to get lots more hire boats. | 0:50:55 | 0:50:57 | |
The sad thing is, from my point of view, | 0:50:57 | 0:51:00 | |
is that a lot of the families we saw come back year after year, | 0:51:00 | 0:51:04 | |
when the cheap package holidays abroad came in, | 0:51:04 | 0:51:07 | |
Mum, Dad and the kids, for the same money, could get guaranteed sunshine and a beach. | 0:51:07 | 0:51:11 | |
-Yes. -So, unfortunately, a lot of the hire boat companies have gone under. | 0:51:11 | 0:51:15 | |
You've presumably seen a lot of the Thames in your time. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:18 | |
-Yes. -What do you love about this river? -When I'm away from it, | 0:51:18 | 0:51:21 | |
-the first thing when I get back is the smell of it. -Really? | 0:51:21 | 0:51:25 | |
Yeah, musty, muddy old smell. | 0:51:25 | 0:51:27 | |
It's horrible but it's lovely. | 0:51:27 | 0:51:29 | |
I wouldn't swap it. Yes, it's the smell of it. And I'm at work. | 0:51:29 | 0:51:33 | |
I'm being paid for this. | 0:51:33 | 0:51:36 | |
And it's just a way of life. | 0:51:36 | 0:51:38 | |
You do get a lot of people say, "Aren't you lucky, living here?" | 0:51:38 | 0:51:41 | |
They don't think that you're the one who actually cuts the grass and plants the shrubs and whatever. | 0:51:41 | 0:51:46 | |
I'm quite surprised there are still lock keepers. Are there many left? | 0:51:46 | 0:51:51 | |
Oh, yes. I'm not sure. | 0:51:51 | 0:51:53 | |
I think it's about 90...something. | 0:51:53 | 0:51:56 | |
Yes, they've been cutting down a little bit, but yes, | 0:51:56 | 0:52:00 | |
most locks are manned and there's reliefs. | 0:52:00 | 0:52:04 | |
You're planning to retire next year. What do you think you'll do? Will you miss it? | 0:52:04 | 0:52:08 | |
Oh, yes, I'll miss it. But I'm going to be very hard to please. | 0:52:08 | 0:52:13 | |
I'm looking for the right place at the moment and... | 0:52:13 | 0:52:17 | |
..I haven't yet found it. | 0:52:18 | 0:52:21 | |
It needs to be by the river? | 0:52:21 | 0:52:23 | |
Preferably. Preferably by the river, within the budget. | 0:52:23 | 0:52:27 | |
So you can still smell the Thames? | 0:52:27 | 0:52:29 | |
Yes. Yes. Lovely and muddy and musty. | 0:52:29 | 0:52:32 | |
At 214 miles long, | 0:52:42 | 0:52:44 | |
the Thames is the longest river to run its course entirely in England. | 0:52:44 | 0:52:49 | |
It has supported human activity from its source to its mouth | 0:52:49 | 0:52:54 | |
for thousands of years | 0:52:54 | 0:52:56 | |
and has been an inspiration to artists and writers. | 0:52:56 | 0:52:59 | |
It was the politician John Burns at the turn of the last century | 0:52:59 | 0:53:03 | |
who called the Thames "liquid history". | 0:53:03 | 0:53:05 | |
After my journey along its waters, that's just how it feels. | 0:53:05 | 0:53:10 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:53:23 | 0:53:26 |