Surviving Against the Odds Earth's Natural Wonders


Surviving Against the Odds

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There are some places on Earth

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that simply take your breath away.

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Lush tropical forests...

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..spectacular islands...

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..soaring mountain ranges...

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..or frozen polar worlds.

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And for the people who call these places home...

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THEY SING IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

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..survival requires skill...

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..ingenuity...

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..and bravery.

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HE SPEAKS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE

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But in some of the planet's most awe-inspiring natural wonders,

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people must push themselves to the absolute limit.

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High in the ancient sandstone mountains of Ethiopia,

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a mother faces a treacherous climb to give her new baby

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the best chance in life.

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On a remote chain of volcanic islands in the North Atlantic,

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a man risks his life as he hunts for a traditional delicacy.

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And in one of the greatest river basins in the world,

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a woman searches for unexploded bombs...

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..to make her land safe.

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In these extraordinary places, people find ways to survive

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and even thrive against the odds.

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The Amazon Rainforest.

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At over two million square miles,

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it's the largest rainforest in the world.

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This vast natural wonder is known as the lungs of the planet.

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Within this huge area lies the Brazilian Mato Grosso,

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a region dotted with lakes and crisscrossed by rivers.

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These waterways are home to a unique array of aquatic life.

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They're also vital for the survival of the dozens of indigenous groups

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who still inhabit the rainforest.

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One of these is the Kamayura, a community of just over 500 people.

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Theirs is a world dominated by spirits.

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They believe that in order to survive,

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these spirits must be kept happy.

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Like his father before him,

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he is a shaman,

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a priestlike figure involved in the ancient rites of the community.

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It's his job to placate the spirits with festivals and offerings.

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In two days' time,

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he is in charge of one of the most important festivals of the year.

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If it's a success, the Kamayura believe

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the spirits will protect them in the months ahead.

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Fail, and people will get ill.

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The shaman must organise a massive fishing trip.

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The fish they catch will be fed to warriors

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who must keep dancing all day in order to appease the spirits.

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It's the day of the fishing expedition

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and the whole village is involved.

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The shaman and some of the other men

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stretch nets across the width of the lake...

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..then move forward, forcing the fish towards the shallow end,

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where everyone else is waiting.

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It looks calm, but just below the surface

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is a world of dangerous wildlife -

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electric eels,

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piranha fish

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and caiman.

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The shaman has spotted an enormous electric eel.

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It could deliver a 600 volt shock.

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Enough to badly injure someone.

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A good catch today depends on a secret weapon -

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pieces of timbo vine.

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HE CHANTS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE

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The shaman's father blesses it.

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The timbo vine contains a powerful toxin.

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Beating it releases chemicals into the water that will poison the fish.

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Once the timbo starts to work,

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helpless fish will float to the surface.

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The young boys will be allowed in first.

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It's a good chance to practise their fishing skills.

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Suddenly, all across the lake, fish start rising to the surface.

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The shaman's four-year-old son is taking part for the first time.

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In less than an hour, they have caught hundreds of fish...

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..and no-one has been hurt.

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Now all the fish must be taken back to the village and smoked,

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ready for the ceremony tomorrow.

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THEY CHANT IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

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It's the day of the ceremony.

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The warriors must dance long and hard

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if they are to please the bird spirit.

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THEY CHANT IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

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It's up to the shaman and his family

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to make sure they have enough fish to eat

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so they have the energy to keep dancing in shifts all day.

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The longer and more energetically they dance,

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the happier the spirit will be.

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Well fed, the warriors dance for over eight hours.

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The shaman has done all he can to make the festival a success

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and guarantee the wellbeing of the village for another year.

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In many of the world's most extreme natural wonders,

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people believe that their best chance lies with a higher power...

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..even if getting that help puts them at an even greater risk.

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Ethiopia.

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In the highlands, the Tigray Region

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is home to the Gheralta Mountains.

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At over 2,000 metres above sea level,

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these geological giants are the last survivors

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of an immense sandstone plateau

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which stood here 25 million years ago.

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This natural wonder towers over the barren,

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semi-arid lands of the plain below.

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In their shadow lies the village of Debre Salem

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and baby Dawit is the newest arrival,

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much to his father's delight.

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But Dawit has born into one of the toughest places

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to live on the planet.

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Drought and famine are never far away.

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One out of every 15 children die before their fifth birthday.

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Dawit's parents believe that if he is to survive, he must be baptised.

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But baptism in the Gheralta Mountains

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means taking an extraordinary risk.

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Dawit's parents must take him to a church called Abuna Yemata Guh.

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This church, carved deep into the mountain face,

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is almost 400 metres above the valley floor.

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It's all about getting closer to God.

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But the only way to get there is to climb.

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Tradition has it that boys must be baptised

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on the 40th day after they are born.

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For Dawit, that day is tomorrow.

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Following a difficult birth just over five weeks ago,

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it's going to be a tough climb for Dawit's mother Ngisti.

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It's the morning of the baptism.

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At 9:00am, the family set out.

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It will take them several hours to get to the church.

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But there's no alternative.

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Tradition dictates Dawit must be baptised today.

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Ngisti doesn't feel strong enough to carry him herself

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so her mother has agreed to take him, strapped to her back.

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They aren't climbing alone.

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The whole village is coming to witness the ceremony.

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The first section is a tough 20 metre climb.

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There are tiny indentations in the rock

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to serve as hand- and footholds.

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A slip here would be fatal.

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Dawit's parents are only too aware of the risks.

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Someone died here a few years ago while climbing up to the church.

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They've been climbing for almost an hour.

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More than three hours after leaving home,

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Dawit and his family reach the baptism chapel

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just below the church.

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PRIESTS SING IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

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Dawit's parents believe he is now under God's protection,

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but they must still take him to his first Mass.

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To reach the church, they must climb again.

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And there's a 200 metre drop on both sides.

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Once across, they face a narrow ledge that leads to the church.

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BELL RINGS

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BELL RINGS

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Once the service is over, Dawit and his parents

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must take on the last part of this dangerous journey - the descent.

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In many of Earth's natural wonders, people believe enlisting the help

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of a higher power is crucial to their chance of survival...

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..even if it means risking their lives in order to get that help.

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But in others, people face injury or death every day

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for a very different reason - to make their home safe.

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The Mekong Basin, Southeast Asia.

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A sprawling natural wonder crossing six countries.

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This vast river network carries nutrient-rich sediment

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over a 300,000 square mile area.

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One country occupies more of the Mekong Basin than any other - Laos.

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Laos is one of the most fertile places on Earth,

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part of Asia's Rice Bowl.

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But farming here is fraught with danger.

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35-year-old Lumngen was a child when her father was injured

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by an exploding bomb and remembers hearing his screams.

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Laos is littered with around 80 million unexploded bombs,

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dropped by the Americans during the Vietnam War over 40 years ago.

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300 people are still injured or killed by them every year.

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Despite the danger,

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the vast majority of the population still farm the land.

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But Lumngen has chosen a very different path.

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She is in charge of a bomb clearance team for an international charity.

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Today, Lumngen and her team are about to tackle a new area.

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It's in the heart of the Mekong Basin

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and was one of the most heavily bombed parts of the country.

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The land Lumngen is clearing today is going to be used

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for a new school, but first the team must make sure it's safe.

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SHE SPEAKS IN HER OWN LANGUAGE

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Their metal detectors must scan every inch.

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OSCILLATING TONE

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It's painstaking work.

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HIGH-PITCHED TONE

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Two hours into the shift, one of the team finds something.

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One American cluster bomb contained

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up to 600 of these small explosive devices.

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Each one can kill or maim.

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It's too dangerous to move

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so Lumngen and the team must destroy it here with a controlled explosion.

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Lumngen's colleague must carefully place

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an explosive charge on the device.

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HE COUNTS DOWN IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE

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It's taken the team several hours to find and make safe one small bomb.

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It could take weeks to clear the rest of this area.

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Next morning, an emergency call has come in

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from a village 50 miles away.

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They think they've found a large bomb.

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Lumngen joins a bomb disposal team as they head out to investigate.

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The team want to get there fast.

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In poverty-stricken Laos, bombs are often sold for scrap metal.

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It's a huge 500-pound American bomb.

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Bombs this size are regularly found in Laos.

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Despite its age, one false move

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could still trigger a massive explosion.

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They need to carefully take out the fuse before moving it.

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A bomb this size, packed with explosives,

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is often taken to a special site for a controlled detonation.

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Any detonations take place at 3:00pm

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so locals know to steer clear.

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It's already 2:50.

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The deep sandpit should absorb the bomb's blast wave.

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Before they detonate it, the team need to move

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over half a mile away to be safe from flying shrapnel.

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On the dot of three...

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Three, two, one...

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Lumngen and the charity she works for

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have destroyed over 28,000 explosive devices.

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But so far, only 1% of the country is known to be clear of bombs.

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Lumngen chooses to risk her life to help make her country safe.

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But in one natural wonder, people put their lives on the line

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for nothing more than a traditional delicacy.

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Halfway between Norway and Iceland lie the Faroe Islands.

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One of northern Europe's most dramatic natural wonders.

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The 18 islands are formed of layers of basalt lava.

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These bare and rocky outcrops were once joined together,

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part of a vast single plateau.

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But 50 million years of erosion has carved out these jagged islands.

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One of the smallest is Skuvoy.

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Measuring four square miles, it's home to just 32 people,

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including town mayor Harry Jensen.

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Skuvoy is renowned for an ancient tradition.

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On just one day a year, the men of this island scale the cliffs

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to collect a much prized delicacy -

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fulmar eggs -

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and the harvest is due in the next few days.

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Harry is the main organiser of this year's egg collection.

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He's taken part since his teens

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and is one of the island's most experienced climbers.

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They're looking for a cliff face with plenty of nesting birds.

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There's only a six-day window once a year to make this climb.

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The fulmars all lay at about the same time.

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After six days, embryos form and then the eggs can't be eaten.

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But the weather's been bad this year

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and tomorrow looks like it might be their last chance.

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Next morning, the weather's not good.

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But Harry decides the climb will go ahead.

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The climbers use traditional kit -

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harnesses and slippers made of wool,

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which they believe give them the best grip on wet rock.

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The egg harvest is THE big event on Skuvoy

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and nearly everyone turns out to help.

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It's 10:00am. The wind is getting up.

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They need to get going before it gets worse.

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Five people are climbing here today.

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Three are younger climbers,

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who are attempting it for the first time.

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It's over 75 metres down to the first ledge.

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Once there, they must take off their safety harnesses

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before they can search for eggs.

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It's Harry's turn.

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At 57, this might be his last climb and he's determined to tackle

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one of the island's most challenging descents.

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HE YELLS

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He's aiming for a ledge almost 150 metres down,

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where there should be plenty of nesting birds.

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Despite years of experience, Harry's struggling to control the descent.

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Halfway down, he passes the first ledge.

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And the fulmars don't welcome the intrusion.

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They spray foul-smelling vomit over anybody threatening their nests.

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Harry's nearly down to the lowest ledge.

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Once down on the ledge, Harry knows he must be careful.

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The weather's getting even worse. Visibility is now dangerously low.

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Time has run out.

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But heaving Harry back up isn't easy.

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The wet rope is heavy and it's catching on the ledges.

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There are now ten on the rope.

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They have got nearly 240 eggs to share between them.

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For the time being at least,

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this death-defying annual egg harvest seems set to continue.

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In many natural wonders around the world,

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people do whatever they think they must

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in order to survive and maintain their way of life.

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But in one, millions risk their lives

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for nothing more than pleasure.

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The Alps - Europe's most famous natural wonder.

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This mountain range runs for 750 miles

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and spans 11 countries.

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Along its length,

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there are more than 80 peaks that tower over 4,000 metres...

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..including the Matterhorn in Switzerland.

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This pyramid-shaped peak is a magnet to holiday-makers.

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A million skiers, climbers

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and hikers pour into this region year in, year out.

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But the lure of the mountain has a price.

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People are killed or injured on its slopes every year.

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The mountains, when you know how to read their signs,

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it's a safe place to live.

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When you don't know your environment, it's dangerous.

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Robbie Andenmatten is a helicopter rescue pilot for Air Zermatt.

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He's on high alert.

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This is one of the busiest times of the summer.

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It's a Swiss national holiday

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and thousands of visitors are pouring into the area.

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The Matterhorn is a very physical mountain.

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It is exposed to different conditions

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and within half a day, can change entirely.

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Robbie is one of 11 pilots responsible for patrolling

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a 780 square mile area around the Matterhorn.

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PHONE RINGS

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HIGH-PITCHED BEEP

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It's 12:30 and Robbie is already

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on his fifth emergency call-out of the day.

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A walker has had a heart attack 2,500 metres up near the Matterhorn.

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If the patient is to stand any chance,

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Robbie must get the doctor and paramedic to him fast.

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Robbie and his team respond to more than 1,600 call-outs every year.

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In the mountains, it's much more difficult to fly

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because of the wind or because of the visibility,

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the fog, the weather.

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Should I fly close to this mountain with this speed wind,

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with this visibility? Yes or no? That's the decision making.

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That's the tough thing.

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Robbie has found the patient.

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Now he needs to get the medics on the ground.

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But the terrain's too steep for him to land.

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He hovers as close as he can

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so the doctor and the paramedic can jump out.

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A strong gust of wind could potentially bring him down.

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As the team try to help the patient, Robbie flies to flatter ground...

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..and waits.

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It's the very worst of outcomes.

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But something Robbie and the team constantly face on these mountains.

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Conditions can change so fast here

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that even experienced climbers can get into trouble.

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For me, it's very hard.

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In my career, I had to get people I know,

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mountain guides, several mountain guides

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which got killed in the last 20 years here

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and that's hard to get over, that's for sure.

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But on one of the busiest weeks of the summer,

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there's no time for Robbie to rest and reflect.

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It's not long before he's responding to another call for help.

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Two young climbers have lost their way

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hiking down a steep mountain pass and are trapped.

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When I'm going to rescue, I'm focusing on the patient's side -

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getting the doctor to the patient.

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I really push the limit.

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They've reached the spot where the stranded women were last seen.

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All along the sides of the valley

0:46:500:46:52

are near-vertical cliffs over 300 metres high.

0:46:520:46:58

They're a well-known black spot for inexperienced hikers.

0:46:580:47:02

They have found the hikers, but there's nowhere to land.

0:47:140:47:18

So the doctor will have to be winched down.

0:47:200:47:22

Please don't move.

0:47:300:47:32

Don't move.

0:47:320:47:34

It's not easy for Robbie to hover in the strong wind in this area.

0:47:370:47:41

-Be careful. Be careful of this.

-Yeah.

-Don't move.

-OK.

0:47:460:47:51

-RECORDED VOICE:

-100ft.

0:47:590:48:01

The women are shaken, but they aren't hurt.

0:48:130:48:18

During this week,

0:48:270:48:29

Robbie and the rest of the Air Zermatt team

0:48:290:48:31

dealt with over 50 calls.

0:48:310:48:34

But despite the many accidents that Robbie has witnessed,

0:48:420:48:45

in his spare time, he, too, heads into the mountains.

0:48:450:48:50

To live here in these mountains, you're free.

0:49:020:49:07

It's adventure, it's the thing I'm used to. That's all I can tell you.

0:49:070:49:12

SHE SPEAKS IN HER OWN LANGUAGE

0:49:130:49:16

Robbie has climbed the Matterhorn 70 times.

0:49:170:49:20

Like so many others, he can't resist the call of this natural wonder.

0:49:210:49:26

Formed over millions of years,

0:49:370:49:40

our natural wonders are the most spectacular places on Earth.

0:49:400:49:45

But they are also the most extreme places in the world to live.

0:49:460:49:52

There are hardly any species on the planet that have found a way

0:49:530:49:57

to survive in all of them.

0:49:570:49:58

One is the human race.

0:50:030:50:05

There is little doubt

0:50:070:50:09

that some of our natural wonders are rapidly changing.

0:50:090:50:12

And whether or not people will continue to live in them...

0:50:150:50:18

..remains to be seen.

0:50:210:50:23

The chance to film the Ethiopian baptism was a unique opportunity.

0:50:400:50:45

The climb would happen just once so there was no room for error.

0:50:480:50:54

Before the shoot, the team need to recce the climb

0:50:560:51:00

and work out just how they're going to film the family on the day.

0:51:000:51:03

It'll take a few minutes, just settle down and so on.

0:51:060:51:09

I'll just get everybody into a harness of some sort.

0:51:090:51:12

It's down to rope access specialist Tim Fogg

0:51:130:51:17

to find a way for the crew to film the 400 metre climb and stay safe.

0:51:170:51:21

And there is a whole array of climbing gear

0:51:240:51:26

to get them up the mountain.

0:51:260:51:29

The thing we should do just safety-wise

0:51:290:51:30

is not stand underneath the climb

0:51:300:51:32

cos if somebody does fall off it, it'll be like...

0:51:320:51:34

Anne Sommerfield is the director.

0:51:340:51:38

I'm just so impressed that our mum and baby do this

0:51:380:51:41

without any ropes or any safety net.

0:51:410:51:43

It's just... Yeah.

0:51:430:51:45

It's quite good to have an appreciation

0:51:450:51:47

for what they're going to do.

0:51:470:51:48

The hand- and footholds have been worn down over time

0:51:540:51:58

and it's hard to get a good grip.

0:51:580:52:00

Yeah, I think everybody else made it look like light work,

0:52:070:52:10

but it's actually...

0:52:100:52:11

It is a bit nerve-racking.

0:52:110:52:13

-That's you.

-My knees are shaking!

0:52:220:52:25

-Good stuff, well done.

-Thank you!

-Brilliant job.

0:52:250:52:28

All right, I'm glad that bit's done.

0:52:350:52:37

But there's still a long way to the top.

0:52:380:52:41

Once there, they have to face the tiny, narrow ledge

0:52:510:52:54

that leads to the church.

0:52:540:52:56

So there's about a 200 metre drop

0:52:560:52:58

and the path is only about that wide.

0:52:580:53:01

This bit, I'm not looking forward to.

0:53:010:53:03

With fierce winds,

0:53:170:53:18

it's a nerve-racking walk along the narrow ledge.

0:53:180:53:21

With Tim's help, the whole team make it safely to the entrance

0:53:370:53:41

and have a chance to see the church.

0:53:410:53:45

It's fabulous. It's quite a moving place, really.

0:53:450:53:50

With the recce done,

0:53:560:53:58

the team are now fully aware of the challenge ahead.

0:53:580:54:01

In a couple of days when we do this with Mum and Baby and Family,

0:54:010:54:05

we only get one crack at it because for us, it's got to be one take.

0:54:050:54:09

It's the day of the baptism.

0:54:160:54:18

We're going up!

0:54:180:54:20

Today is the day we see if all the practice

0:54:200:54:22

and all the planning pays off.

0:54:220:54:24

I think it will.

0:54:240:54:26

With so much of the action taking place on the cliff face...

0:54:280:54:31

..it's going to be up to aerial cameraman Peter Keith

0:54:320:54:36

to get all the big wide shots.

0:54:360:54:38

This is quite an exciting moment. The family are just below.

0:54:410:54:44

I can see Peter and he's got the drone out

0:54:440:54:47

and he's going to capture some of that walk.

0:54:470:54:49

Come on, Mum and Baby.

0:54:510:54:53

There they are.

0:54:590:55:01

There's Mum and Mum's mum, Granny, with Baby on the back.

0:55:010:55:04

But there's a problem.

0:55:120:55:14

The drone is running out of battery.

0:55:230:55:25

Anne has to make a decision whether to try and get the family to wait.

0:55:270:55:31

Yeah, let's hold them.

0:55:340:55:36

She's going, she's going, she's going, she's going.

0:55:390:55:42

Stay with it, stay with it.

0:55:440:55:46

It's fine. No, it's fine.

0:55:500:55:53

The decision is taken out of her hands.

0:55:540:55:57

Peter will have to get what he can.

0:55:570:55:59

When the dad is up, then they stop.

0:56:010:56:04

With just moments of life left in his battery,

0:56:100:56:12

Peter manages to capture the amazing first images of the cliff climb.

0:56:120:56:18

That's stage one done, yep.

0:56:200:56:22

Onwards and upwards.

0:56:220:56:24

BELL RINGS

0:56:240:56:26

Next, the crew need to film in the tiny baptism chapel.

0:56:260:56:30

-WHISPERS:

-So we've got Alastair inside

0:56:320:56:35

getting some shots of the baptism.

0:56:350:56:37

Above, we've got Peter flying the drone

0:56:390:56:41

so that's why we've all had to hide under some shelter

0:56:410:56:44

so that we're not in shot.

0:56:440:56:45

With baby Dawit baptised, it's on to the church.

0:56:500:56:53

Now we will try

0:56:550:56:57

and have just the two mothers coming out along the ledge.

0:56:570:57:01

That's all we're going to try and do!

0:57:010:57:02

The team's planning pays off.

0:57:120:57:14

They manage to capture this unique celebration

0:57:150:57:18

from both ground and air.

0:57:180:57:21

It was good! It was really good.

0:57:220:57:24

Guess what? We got it!

0:57:240:57:27

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