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There are people on our planet | 0:00:03 | 0:00:05 | |
who are more at home in water than on land. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:09 | |
CHILDREN HOLLER | 0:00:10 | 0:00:11 | |
In a distant corner of the western Pacific lies the Coral Triangle. | 0:00:15 | 0:00:20 | |
These waters are the richest on Earth, | 0:00:23 | 0:00:25 | |
and the people here have adapted to ocean life like nowhere else. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:30 | |
My name is Will Millard. | 0:00:34 | 0:00:36 | |
Buena. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:38 | |
I'm a writer and for much of the last eight years, | 0:00:38 | 0:00:41 | |
I've been working and exploring in this remote region. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:44 | |
God! This place is a minefield! | 0:00:44 | 0:00:45 | |
I want to understand the unique bond these people | 0:00:45 | 0:00:49 | |
have with the ocean, at a time of great change. | 0:00:49 | 0:00:53 | |
I've never met a shark-finner before. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:55 | |
Now I'm heading off on an expedition across the open sea... | 0:00:56 | 0:01:00 | |
Here comes the rain. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:03 | |
..in search of a trade route called the Kula Ring, | 0:01:03 | 0:01:06 | |
which has linked remote islands for centuries. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:10 | |
It's not just about this village or even just about this island, | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
it's about placing yourself in the whole Kula Ring. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:16 | |
But as a new form of trade emerges, | 0:01:16 | 0:01:19 | |
can these ancient connections survive in the 21st century? | 0:01:19 | 0:01:22 | |
-How much are they? 20? -Yeah. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:25 | |
ALL CHANT | 0:01:25 | 0:01:27 | |
I want to find out what the future holds | 0:01:34 | 0:01:37 | |
for these last hunters of the South Seas. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
In my travels around the Coral Triangle, | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
I've always been curious about its remotest regions. | 0:01:55 | 0:01:58 | |
The cultures here have found extraordinary ways | 0:01:58 | 0:02:01 | |
to thrive, in spite of their isolation. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
So, I'm heading further east than I have ever been into Melanesia, | 0:02:07 | 0:02:12 | |
where a different people, with their own language, | 0:02:12 | 0:02:14 | |
live on a tiny outcrop called the Trobriand Islands. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:17 | |
The Trobriand Islands are found 150 miles | 0:02:20 | 0:02:23 | |
off the east coast of Papua New Guinea. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
They are famous because of a unique system of trade called Kula | 0:02:27 | 0:02:31 | |
that links these tiny islands to many others | 0:02:31 | 0:02:33 | |
in a great circle called the Kula Ring. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:37 | |
To explore this ring, I'm beginning on Kiriwina, | 0:02:39 | 0:02:42 | |
the largest island, home to the only airport in the region. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:46 | |
This is my first time in the Trobriand Islands. | 0:02:54 | 0:02:57 | |
What's "good" in the Trobriand language? | 0:02:57 | 0:02:59 | |
-Sena buena. -Sena buena. Very good! | 0:02:59 | 0:03:02 | |
I already know two words and we've only just begun. Sena buena! | 0:03:02 | 0:03:05 | |
This place feels so remote, | 0:03:07 | 0:03:10 | |
but there are few places on the planet | 0:03:10 | 0:03:12 | |
that have been studied quite as much as this place. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:15 | |
For decades, it's welcomed anthropologists, | 0:03:15 | 0:03:19 | |
linguists, academics. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:21 | |
And they've all come here | 0:03:21 | 0:03:22 | |
and they've discovered a culture that is like no other. | 0:03:22 | 0:03:27 | |
For almost a century, European academics and explorers | 0:03:29 | 0:03:32 | |
have flocked here, | 0:03:32 | 0:03:34 | |
attracted to a culture so radically different to their own. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
At its heart lay Kula. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
As recently as the 1990s, film-makers still captured | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
hundreds of islanders setting out in carved canoes, | 0:03:47 | 0:03:50 | |
sailing across the sea on dramatic Kula expeditions. | 0:03:50 | 0:03:54 | |
Kula is a complex network of gift-giving and trade | 0:03:57 | 0:04:01 | |
that has been vital to the survival of these remote communities. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
The currency of Kula is elaborate armbands | 0:04:06 | 0:04:09 | |
and necklaces made from shells, | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
which are exchanged between different islands. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:14 | |
But for the last 20 years, little has been heard of Kula, | 0:04:16 | 0:04:20 | |
with rumours that money has now taken over on Kiriwina. | 0:04:20 | 0:04:24 | |
I want to see what remains of this unique network | 0:04:25 | 0:04:27 | |
and find where it is still important in the Kula Ring. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:31 | |
Thanks, guys. All the best. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:33 | |
Buena. Buena. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
Hello. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:37 | |
My host is Edric Kasaipwalova, the island's only fixer and translator. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:43 | |
So, this is the village. | 0:04:44 | 0:04:47 | |
It's really beautiful. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:49 | |
Edric has arranged for me to stay in his local village. | 0:04:49 | 0:04:53 | |
-Everyone here is, one way or another, related to us. -Right. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:58 | |
All our uncles live here. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
ERIC SPEAKS IN HIS NATIVE TONGUE | 0:05:01 | 0:05:04 | |
-Will, this is Nagiya. -I'm William. Nagiya? -Nagiya. -Nagiya? | 0:05:04 | 0:05:08 | |
Nice to meet you. Your village is very beautiful. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:11 | |
Yes. ALL LAUGH | 0:05:11 | 0:05:13 | |
Nagiya is my dad's cousin's brother. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
So, he and his family live here. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:18 | |
OK, great. Which one's your house, Nagiya? Where do you live? | 0:05:18 | 0:05:22 | |
-Right here? -Yeah, that's his house. -Fantastic! | 0:05:23 | 0:05:25 | |
Oh, thank you, Nagiya. Buena. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:37 | |
Well, shall we go and have a look at my new house? | 0:05:37 | 0:05:39 | |
OK. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:41 | |
THEY SPEAK IN THEIR NATIVE TONGUE | 0:05:41 | 0:05:43 | |
Oh, superb! This is my home. This is it. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:47 | |
This is where I'm going to be. Oh, look! | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
Perfect! Nagiya, how did you know? | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
WILL LAUGHS | 0:05:54 | 0:05:56 | |
There we go. | 0:05:56 | 0:05:58 | |
Nagiya lives in the middle of the island | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
in one of the most traditional villages. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:07 | |
-Pappa this one. -OK. -Mamma this one. -Right. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:14 | |
Where's Pappa? | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
-Wake up! -LAUGHTER | 0:06:17 | 0:06:20 | |
Everybody in Nagiya's family is a farmer. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:31 | |
Yams are the staple crop of these islands | 0:06:40 | 0:06:42 | |
and today is planting day. | 0:06:42 | 0:06:44 | |
Just leaving my village behind. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:54 | |
It's just through there, round the corner. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
The first thing that strikes me here is... | 0:06:57 | 0:06:59 | |
this place is seriously, seriously cultivated. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:04 | |
There's sweet potatoes, bananas, taro. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:08 | |
There's everything you need. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:10 | |
Then...right in front of me here, | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
you've got the start of all of the yam gardens. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:18 | |
SINGING | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
OK. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:31 | |
So, I'll start digging? | 0:07:36 | 0:07:38 | |
Yeah? OK. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:40 | |
It's very dry. Yams are much more than food for Nagiya's family, | 0:07:41 | 0:07:45 | |
they're integral to all Kula expeditions. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:48 | |
We have a saying - if you're a man, you must have a yam garden. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
-Really? -If you can't have a yam garden, | 0:07:56 | 0:07:58 | |
you don't have a yam garden, you are not considered to be a man. Why? | 0:07:58 | 0:08:02 | |
Because yams form the basis of wealth for men, | 0:08:02 | 0:08:06 | |
because everybody uses yams for all the festivities, | 0:08:06 | 0:08:10 | |
basically, any big ceremonies. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
Yams are treated much like money, | 0:08:14 | 0:08:16 | |
with people such as Nagiya | 0:08:16 | 0:08:18 | |
stockpiling them in yam houses, like a bank. | 0:08:18 | 0:08:21 | |
These houses also show off the owner's wealth. | 0:08:21 | 0:08:24 | |
Yeah. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:44 | |
Kula, it seems, begins on the land, rather than the sea. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:50 | |
ULULATING | 0:08:50 | 0:08:52 | |
In the last three, four months, | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
I've been travelling around these tiny communities | 0:08:54 | 0:08:57 | |
where the sea is everything, surrounded by ocean every day, | 0:08:57 | 0:09:01 | |
and yet here, it feels like everything is centred on the earth. | 0:09:01 | 0:09:06 | |
That's not to say that the sea's not important, | 0:09:06 | 0:09:08 | |
but everything has to start with the yam. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:13 | |
So, you have got to put the dirt under your fingernails | 0:09:13 | 0:09:15 | |
before you take to the sea. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:17 | |
After a day's work, we relax Trobriand style, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
chewing betel nut. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
Watch this. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:35 | |
Like it, huh? | 0:09:37 | 0:09:38 | |
Betel nut is a mild stimulant that also dyes your teeth black. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:41 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:09:41 | 0:09:43 | |
Mmm. It's warm. I can feel it burning. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:46 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:09:46 | 0:09:48 | |
It's like I've been punched in the mouth. | 0:09:51 | 0:09:53 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:09:53 | 0:09:55 | |
-I can feel in my head a bit... -Dizzy? -Yeah, dizzy. | 0:09:57 | 0:10:02 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:10:02 | 0:10:04 | |
In some ways Nagiya's life | 0:10:09 | 0:10:11 | |
seems remarkably unchanged from the old films. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:13 | |
But this village is unusual. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:17 | |
In the surrounding areas, many other yam houses lie half built or empty, | 0:10:17 | 0:10:22 | |
much to Nagiya's disappointment. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:24 | |
What's the impact on a traditional community celebration like Kula? | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
Despite his enthusiasm, | 0:11:26 | 0:11:28 | |
Nagiya hasn't been on a Kula expedition for nearly 20 years. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
COCK CROWS | 0:11:50 | 0:11:52 | |
Goodness me! There's a lot of people, yeah? | 0:12:03 | 0:12:06 | |
The next morning outside of Nagiya's village, | 0:12:06 | 0:12:09 | |
thousands of people are heading to the northern shore five miles away. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:14 | |
This is the village of Koibola and if couldn't feel more different. | 0:12:14 | 0:12:18 | |
It's not even six o'clock in the morning | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
and there's already hundreds of people here. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
This is the new economy in action. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:27 | |
Oh, my God! | 0:12:48 | 0:12:49 | |
An enormous passenger ferry looming on the horizon. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:56 | |
That is...quite extraordinary! | 0:12:58 | 0:13:00 | |
The Trobriand Islands are now on the cruise-ship circuit | 0:13:01 | 0:13:04 | |
and 2,000 islanders are gathered to meet the boat. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:08 | |
GRUNTING | 0:13:27 | 0:13:28 | |
I don't know whether it's just me, but...that is absolutely insane. | 0:13:28 | 0:13:32 | |
It looks like it is going to come | 0:13:32 | 0:13:34 | |
straight into the island and swallow it whole. | 0:13:34 | 0:13:36 | |
ULULATING | 0:13:36 | 0:13:38 | |
ALL CHANT | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
WHISTLING | 0:13:40 | 0:13:41 | |
I don't really know how to feel about this. | 0:13:50 | 0:13:53 | |
It is...quite bizarre. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:55 | |
WHISTLING | 0:13:55 | 0:13:56 | |
I don't want to, sort of, start sniping at...my own people, | 0:13:56 | 0:14:01 | |
because, you know, essentially I'm a tourist, I'm a dim-dim. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:04 | |
ALL CHANT | 0:14:04 | 0:14:06 | |
I can't really figure out who's exploiting who? | 0:14:06 | 0:14:10 | |
'Passing through our information desk.' | 0:14:10 | 0:14:15 | |
This cruise ship will dock for only eight hours. | 0:14:15 | 0:14:18 | |
How much for all of us? | 0:14:18 | 0:14:20 | |
It's a brief window for passengers | 0:14:20 | 0:14:22 | |
to explore the local culture and pick up souvenirs. | 0:14:22 | 0:14:25 | |
How much are they? 20? | 0:14:27 | 0:14:29 | |
-Yes. -20 Kina? | 0:14:29 | 0:14:30 | |
-You want Kina? -Yes, please. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:34 | |
-Imagine the effort put into this, eh? -Yeah, right. | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
He told us that big bowl that my partner just bought | 0:14:37 | 0:14:39 | |
-took him about a week, so five days to make. -Five days just to make that. | 0:14:39 | 0:14:44 | |
And that's to put the shells and everything in it. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:46 | |
That's extraordinary. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:47 | |
-And he paid 100 Kina for it. -Really? -So, that's 50 Australia. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:51 | |
50 Australian. So are you pleased with that? | 0:14:51 | 0:14:53 | |
-Oh, yes. -Definitely! Yeah. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:54 | |
P&O have paid the village £2,000 to put on this event, | 0:14:56 | 0:15:01 | |
and hired traditional Kula canoes from a neighbouring island | 0:15:01 | 0:15:04 | |
to do trips round the bay. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:06 | |
There's six Kula canoes out there. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:10 | |
It's the first time I've seen them. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:13 | |
There's one here just going past this P&O ferry. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:18 | |
A tiny, tiny little Kula canoe just drifting around the back. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:22 | |
That's quite a strong metaphor probably | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
for what's going on here today. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:26 | |
WHISTLING | 0:15:26 | 0:15:28 | |
This mass tourism has created a new culture of Trobriand carving. | 0:15:29 | 0:15:33 | |
They're carving objects and shapes | 0:15:35 | 0:15:37 | |
that they've never seen before in their life. | 0:15:37 | 0:15:39 | |
When was the last time that you saw an elephant on Kiriwina? | 0:15:39 | 0:15:43 | |
This culture is not about carvings, it's about...agriculture, | 0:15:44 | 0:15:49 | |
it's about people going on Kula expeditions, | 0:15:49 | 0:15:54 | |
it's about everything that we are. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
-How much are they? -This is all very, very foreign. | 0:15:56 | 0:15:59 | |
With cash in their pockets, | 0:16:04 | 0:16:06 | |
few of these people now have need for the Kula Ring. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:09 | |
It's clear that, to see Kula in action, | 0:16:12 | 0:16:14 | |
we'll have to travel to the other islands. | 0:16:14 | 0:16:17 | |
20 years ago, it was Kula canoes, not cruise ships, | 0:16:21 | 0:16:24 | |
that were regularly leaving these shores. | 0:16:24 | 0:16:26 | |
Instead of cash, the valuables they carried | 0:16:28 | 0:16:30 | |
were shell armbands called "mwali". | 0:16:30 | 0:16:32 | |
These mwali armbands were given as gifts | 0:16:36 | 0:16:38 | |
to Kula partners on different islands, | 0:16:38 | 0:16:41 | |
creating a debt of obligation which had to be repaid. | 0:16:41 | 0:16:45 | |
The relationships between Kula partners | 0:16:47 | 0:16:49 | |
opened the way for other commerce. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:52 | |
But at its heart, Kula was about power... | 0:16:52 | 0:16:55 | |
and the network that was created | 0:16:55 | 0:16:57 | |
as these mwali armbands moved around the Kula Ring. | 0:16:57 | 0:17:00 | |
For over a generation, one chief called Nalebutau | 0:17:03 | 0:17:07 | |
dominated the region. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:09 | |
He controlled the most prestigious armbands | 0:17:09 | 0:17:12 | |
and led many Kula expeditions. | 0:17:12 | 0:17:15 | |
This man was Edric's great-uncle. | 0:17:15 | 0:17:18 | |
Edric's privileged upbringing took him to university in Australia | 0:17:22 | 0:17:27 | |
and a career in marketing. | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
He returned last year to an island very different to his childhood. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:33 | |
Edric moved to a hut outside his village. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:37 | |
The time has passed. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:40 | |
I went away for 11 years and I came back as a total stranger. | 0:17:40 | 0:17:45 | |
And I felt... totally, totally uncomfortable. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:48 | |
What I was taught when I was a child cannot be applied, | 0:17:48 | 0:17:52 | |
cos the world has changed so much. | 0:17:52 | 0:17:54 | |
I know the emotions attached with Kula, | 0:17:54 | 0:17:58 | |
I know the techniques attached with Kula. | 0:17:58 | 0:18:01 | |
I have never practised Kula myself, | 0:18:01 | 0:18:04 | |
so I've got no idea about what the nature of the game is. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:08 | |
In so many ways, it is like a missing jigsaw puzzle. | 0:18:08 | 0:18:13 | |
It's almost like... there is a vacuum somewhere, | 0:18:13 | 0:18:18 | |
there is a vacuum that needs to be filled. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:21 | |
It's been an odd day. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:26 | |
The arrival of a cash economy | 0:18:26 | 0:18:28 | |
seems to be slowly suffocating traditional forms of wealth, | 0:18:28 | 0:18:32 | |
but the cruise ship also brings thousands of people together, | 0:18:32 | 0:18:36 | |
even drawing in Kula canoes from other islands. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:39 | |
And, in a strange twist, these new arrivals can bring | 0:18:39 | 0:18:44 | |
more exciting news from around the Kula Ring. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:47 | |
-KNOCK AT DOOR -Hello? | 0:18:51 | 0:18:53 | |
Nagiya! What's going on?! | 0:18:53 | 0:18:56 | |
WILL LAUGHS | 0:18:56 | 0:18:57 | |
-Right! -Yeah. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:02 | |
Oh, my God! OK. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:05 | |
OK, Nagiya, I'm coming. | 0:19:05 | 0:19:07 | |
Let me just get my T-shirt on. | 0:19:07 | 0:19:09 | |
I have no idea what's going on. | 0:19:10 | 0:19:12 | |
WILL SPEAKS IN THE NATIVE TONGUE | 0:19:15 | 0:19:16 | |
-Yeah? -WILL LAUGHS | 0:19:18 | 0:19:20 | |
Oh, man, everybody's here. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:23 | |
Morning, everyone. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:25 | |
It's a big moment, Will. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:31 | |
All the mwali, apparently, have landed on Iwa | 0:19:31 | 0:19:33 | |
and Nagiya's getting really excited! | 0:19:33 | 0:19:35 | |
-Can we go and get 'em? -Yeah, it's possible. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:39 | |
There are some canoes that came from Katava. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:42 | |
-Yeah? -For the...tourist vessel. | 0:19:42 | 0:19:45 | |
-We could always... -You've got to be kidding me! | 0:19:45 | 0:19:48 | |
No, we could always ask them | 0:19:48 | 0:19:50 | |
if we can get a lift with them and go across to Kitava. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:55 | |
-Sena buena! -ALL: -Sena buena! | 0:19:55 | 0:19:58 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:19:58 | 0:20:00 | |
Nagiya has heard that, on the remote island of Iwa, | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
a Kula expedition has just returned home, | 0:20:03 | 0:20:06 | |
bringing with it dozens of mwali armbands. | 0:20:06 | 0:20:09 | |
These armbands can be Nagiya and Edric's entry point | 0:20:09 | 0:20:13 | |
into the Kula network, | 0:20:13 | 0:20:14 | |
if they can persuade the Iwa Islanders to part with them. | 0:20:14 | 0:20:17 | |
THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE | 0:20:17 | 0:20:19 | |
By hitching on the tourist canoes, | 0:20:22 | 0:20:24 | |
we have our best shot at forging this new Kula partnership. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:27 | |
That was an unforgettable morning. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
It's not your traditional Kula expedition, | 0:20:32 | 0:20:34 | |
but that clearly doesn't matter to Nagiya, | 0:20:34 | 0:20:36 | |
because he has dropped about 25 years today. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:39 | |
I've never seen him so animated, laughing. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:41 | |
He's absolutely full of life. I can't believe how lucky we've been. | 0:20:41 | 0:20:45 | |
And, to be honest with you, God bless tourism. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:48 | |
MAN SINGS IN NATIVE TONGUE | 0:20:48 | 0:20:49 | |
Nagiya wants to leave the next day, | 0:21:00 | 0:21:02 | |
which gives us one afternoon for packing and preparation. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:06 | |
Rice? How much rice? | 0:21:06 | 0:21:09 | |
10 kilos? 20 kilos? 50 kilos? | 0:21:09 | 0:21:11 | |
Four Gentles, please. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:14 | |
-This is the local tobacco? -This is a block. -OK. | 0:21:18 | 0:21:22 | |
This is going to get us a lot of favours. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:25 | |
We leave the following morning, | 0:22:09 | 0:22:11 | |
heading to the village where the canoes have beached. | 0:22:11 | 0:22:14 | |
BIRDSONG | 0:22:14 | 0:22:16 | |
Wow! | 0:22:17 | 0:22:19 | |
This is the most southerly point on Kiriwina. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:21 | |
It feels like the ends of the earth. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:25 | |
Thatched huts, white sand. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:28 | |
Hello. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:30 | |
WILL LAUGHS | 0:22:30 | 0:22:32 | |
That's awesome. | 0:22:34 | 0:22:36 | |
What an incredible ship. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:38 | |
Goodness me! | 0:22:38 | 0:22:40 | |
I'm so pleased to see these canoes, I can't tell you. | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
Our journey will take us 12 miles east from Kiriwina | 0:22:43 | 0:22:47 | |
to the island of Kitava, where we can pick up supplies | 0:22:47 | 0:22:50 | |
before heading on to Iwa, where the mwali armbands are to be found. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:55 | |
Ohh! Up! | 0:22:57 | 0:22:59 | |
Hiya! | 0:22:59 | 0:23:01 | |
ALL WHOOP | 0:23:01 | 0:23:03 | |
The sail is absolutely enormous! | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
It's loads of pieces of tarpaulin patched together. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:17 | |
But that'll do. | 0:23:18 | 0:23:20 | |
We're off, Nagiya! | 0:23:25 | 0:23:27 | |
-Buena! Beuna! -LAUGHTER | 0:23:27 | 0:23:29 | |
The sail is up. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:35 | |
Now we've just got to get between... | 0:23:35 | 0:23:37 | |
the space between these two islands without getting completely soaked. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:41 | |
MAN SPEAKS IN NATIVE TONGUE WILL LAUGHS | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
These extraordinary canoes have made this journey for centuries. | 0:23:56 | 0:23:59 | |
Each one is individually named and decorated, | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
and specially built for Kula expeditions | 0:24:05 | 0:24:09 | |
There's three guys in the middle here...bailing. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:16 | |
The other guy, in charge of the rigging at the back, | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
is in charge of the sail. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:22 | |
And then, of course, there's me and Edric. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:28 | |
And I think our primary role on this boat | 0:24:28 | 0:24:31 | |
has been to try and block some of this water coming in over the sides, | 0:24:31 | 0:24:34 | |
because it's been relentless. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:36 | |
Here comes the rain. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:41 | |
After a very wet morning, Kitava finally comes into view. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:08 | |
This is it. Kitava. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:12 | |
Absolutely flying in. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:14 | |
The sail's coming down. | 0:25:19 | 0:25:20 | |
Hey-hey, hello! | 0:25:22 | 0:25:24 | |
MAN SHOUTS | 0:25:24 | 0:25:26 | |
Nagiya, we made it. | 0:25:26 | 0:25:28 | |
Brilliant. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:33 | |
Kitava is Kiriwina's smaller neighbour, | 0:25:36 | 0:25:38 | |
where Edric and Nagiya have strong clan connections. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:42 | |
But upon arrival here, Edric receives some upsetting news. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:51 | |
We just learnt, here in Kitava, | 0:25:53 | 0:25:55 | |
part of our clan has passed away, | 0:25:55 | 0:25:58 | |
and I have to trim my hair. | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
When somebody dies, that is the mark of a mourning period. | 0:26:00 | 0:26:04 | |
Very, very sad news for Edric, | 0:26:07 | 0:26:09 | |
and what it means in terms of Kula, is that all Kula activities | 0:26:09 | 0:26:13 | |
have to be suspended out of respect for the deceased, | 0:26:13 | 0:26:16 | |
and there should be an all-day funeral feast today | 0:26:16 | 0:26:19 | |
that we are going to attend. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:21 | |
Funerals are big public events in the Trobriands, | 0:26:23 | 0:26:26 | |
and Edric is very well known. | 0:26:26 | 0:26:29 | |
Half our rice supply is taken as a gift. | 0:26:30 | 0:26:33 | |
This is the only truck on the island and it's come to pick up Edric. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:39 | |
I think, um... | 0:26:41 | 0:26:43 | |
he's feeling the pressure today. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:45 | |
This is the first time he has ever gone to a funeral feast on Kitava. | 0:26:45 | 0:26:49 | |
You know, he's having to walk in the footsteps of the great Chief Nalebutau. | 0:26:51 | 0:26:56 | |
As our car travels across the island, we pick up fellow mourners. | 0:26:59 | 0:27:03 | |
Everybody recognises Edric's family name. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:06 | |
His father is a well-known person here, on Kitava Island. | 0:27:07 | 0:27:11 | |
-Edric carries his reputation with him. -Yes. | 0:27:13 | 0:27:15 | |
Do you feel the pressure, Edric? | 0:27:17 | 0:27:19 | |
Yes, all of a sudden I feel that pressure, I didn't expect that. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:26 | |
His forefathers' reputation will follow Edric wherever he goes, | 0:27:32 | 0:27:36 | |
so he must behave accordingly. | 0:27:36 | 0:27:38 | |
The man died of old age | 0:27:59 | 0:28:00 | |
and is buried in the centre of the village. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:03 | |
Over 200 people are already here, | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
and with each new arrival, more food is brought. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:12 | |
People are arriving in streams, carrying piles of sticks | 0:28:15 | 0:28:19 | |
and baskets filled with yams. | 0:28:19 | 0:28:21 | |
And then they're erecting these little turrets | 0:28:21 | 0:28:23 | |
which they're filling to the top | 0:28:23 | 0:28:25 | |
with as many yams as they can fit in, | 0:28:25 | 0:28:27 | |
placing the biggest ones on the very, very summit. | 0:28:27 | 0:28:30 | |
This is a gift for the deceased's family. | 0:28:30 | 0:28:33 | |
Just like the Kula yam houses, | 0:28:35 | 0:28:37 | |
the wealthier the man, the taller his pile. | 0:28:37 | 0:28:40 | |
The women are set back from the village. | 0:28:45 | 0:28:47 | |
Just stood outside the widow's hut | 0:28:51 | 0:28:53 | |
and it's like nothing I've ever seen before. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:57 | |
She's sat just in a darkened corner. | 0:28:57 | 0:28:59 | |
Her friends just cutting her hair, as is customary. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:03 | |
Everybody around her is crying in this most rhythmical tone. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:10 | |
WAILING | 0:29:10 | 0:29:12 | |
It's the role of these women to publicly mourn, | 0:29:14 | 0:29:17 | |
and with every new arrival, a fresh chorus can be heard. | 0:29:17 | 0:29:21 | |
WAILING | 0:29:21 | 0:29:23 | |
What's astonishing about today is that this is actually | 0:29:27 | 0:29:31 | |
the death of a man in a village numbering no more than maybe 40, | 0:29:31 | 0:29:36 | |
and yet it's still so, so important to come here and show that you care. | 0:29:36 | 0:29:41 | |
What it all ties in to me is just how great | 0:29:42 | 0:29:46 | |
the sense of kinship and networking is amongst these people. | 0:29:46 | 0:29:51 | |
That it's not just about this village, | 0:29:51 | 0:29:53 | |
it's not even just about this island, | 0:29:53 | 0:29:55 | |
it's about placing yourself in the whole Kula Ring. | 0:29:55 | 0:29:58 | |
At midday, the feast is ready. | 0:30:04 | 0:30:05 | |
Edric's contribution of rice is given a very public showing. | 0:30:09 | 0:30:13 | |
His gift is fitting for his status, | 0:30:13 | 0:30:16 | |
and it will benefit Edric more than anybody else. | 0:30:16 | 0:30:19 | |
I never knew the deceased. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:24 | |
It doesn't really matter, | 0:30:24 | 0:30:26 | |
there is still a traditional obligation in place. | 0:30:26 | 0:30:29 | |
You still need to show face, but the consequences of that | 0:30:29 | 0:30:33 | |
strengthens many other links, | 0:30:33 | 0:30:34 | |
and also with Kula. | 0:30:34 | 0:30:36 | |
The relatives of the deceased, in one way, shape or form, | 0:30:37 | 0:30:40 | |
they will have to repay. | 0:30:40 | 0:30:41 | |
For Edric, today is no longer about saying goodbye to an old man, | 0:30:45 | 0:30:50 | |
it is about asserting his family name | 0:30:50 | 0:30:52 | |
and making sure that the deceased's family is indebted to him. | 0:30:52 | 0:30:56 | |
I've been watching him, and he has been squirreling his way | 0:30:59 | 0:31:02 | |
between every single one of the houses round here. | 0:31:02 | 0:31:05 | |
And in fact, at lunch-time he leant into me and said, you know... | 0:31:05 | 0:31:09 | |
.."It's quite something for a man of my standing | 0:31:10 | 0:31:13 | |
"to come to this funeral. | 0:31:13 | 0:31:15 | |
"These people aren't quite in the same league as my past." | 0:31:15 | 0:31:21 | |
Essentially, if these guys receive any Mwali any time soon, | 0:31:22 | 0:31:26 | |
it won't even be up for discussion, it has to come my way now, | 0:31:26 | 0:31:30 | |
they are obligated, because I have come here to show my face. | 0:31:30 | 0:31:34 | |
The funeral feast today was just an incredible experience. | 0:31:50 | 0:31:56 | |
Edric said from the start, | 0:31:57 | 0:31:59 | |
today is not about Kula, there's not going to be any exchanges today, | 0:31:59 | 0:32:03 | |
but it really WAS about Kula, | 0:32:03 | 0:32:05 | |
I could see him networking, I could see him making new relationships. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:09 | |
I think I'm beginning to realise that Kula is much more than | 0:32:10 | 0:32:14 | |
just the trading of shells. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:15 | |
It is travelling to different islands | 0:32:15 | 0:32:18 | |
and saying, "You are important, you are important to me. | 0:32:18 | 0:32:22 | |
"And the reason you are important is | 0:32:22 | 0:32:23 | |
"because we have a family history and we have a connection." | 0:32:23 | 0:32:27 | |
Well, it's another beautiful day today, | 0:32:38 | 0:32:39 | |
but there's virtually no wind. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:42 | |
The wind that there is, I can see is blowing in the wrong direction. | 0:32:42 | 0:32:46 | |
So what we are going to do is take the crew dinghy. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:49 | |
Maybe it's not as beautiful, but it's going to get us there at least. | 0:32:50 | 0:32:54 | |
We have been told there's over 100 Mwali on Iwa. | 0:33:05 | 0:33:08 | |
The journey there takes four hours | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
and Edric spends most of it in silence. | 0:33:13 | 0:33:15 | |
After a 25-year wait, | 0:33:17 | 0:33:19 | |
he is now very close to making his first Kula connections. | 0:33:19 | 0:33:22 | |
'As we get closer to the destination, | 0:33:24 | 0:33:26 | |
'there's a lot of anxious moments, I guess.' | 0:33:26 | 0:33:28 | |
Trying to figure out what is there for you, | 0:33:28 | 0:33:33 | |
what exactly are you going to say to your Kula partner? | 0:33:33 | 0:33:37 | |
'What is their expectation? What is my expectation? | 0:33:38 | 0:33:41 | |
'How should I be greeted?' | 0:33:42 | 0:33:43 | |
What is my game plan? | 0:33:45 | 0:33:47 | |
And what will be my Kula partner's game plan? | 0:33:47 | 0:33:50 | |
Wow, there it is, Iwa! | 0:33:53 | 0:33:56 | |
That is an extraordinary shape. | 0:33:56 | 0:33:58 | |
It's like a big, green table top in the middle of the sea. | 0:33:59 | 0:34:02 | |
Oh, right, we're here! | 0:34:07 | 0:34:09 | |
Good grief, well done, guys. | 0:34:12 | 0:34:14 | |
Iwa is one of the remotest islands in the region. | 0:34:18 | 0:34:21 | |
Flanked by 40-metre-high cliffs, its two villages lie at the summit. | 0:34:21 | 0:34:26 | |
Edric and Nagiya immediately begin changing into Kula dress. | 0:34:29 | 0:34:33 | |
They will work separately on Iwa, | 0:34:34 | 0:34:37 | |
each trying to find somebody to get them a Mwali arm band. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:40 | |
For Edric, failure would bring shame on his family's reputation. | 0:34:41 | 0:34:46 | |
My great-uncle has been here before so many times. | 0:34:46 | 0:34:49 | |
And everyone of the older generation on Iwa know about him. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:54 | |
I suppose I am the first one to come back here, | 0:34:55 | 0:34:58 | |
so it's a fair bit of pressure of expectation. | 0:34:58 | 0:35:01 | |
You do feel almost the weight of history | 0:35:02 | 0:35:05 | |
watching the guys sticking on the Kula ornaments. | 0:35:05 | 0:35:08 | |
You can't help to think about who else has been down here in the past. | 0:35:08 | 0:35:12 | |
Who's got ready in that cave? | 0:35:12 | 0:35:13 | |
And I'm beginning to see two very different sides to Edric and Nagiya. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:19 | |
I have to be honest, I feel quite sorry for Edric. | 0:35:21 | 0:35:24 | |
Everywhere he goes, people talk about his dad, Chief John and Nalebutau. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:28 | |
And I think he feels... | 0:35:28 | 0:35:30 | |
..immense stress to try and live up | 0:35:31 | 0:35:33 | |
to their expectations to be that man. | 0:35:33 | 0:35:36 | |
Nagiya, on the other hand, is having the time of his life. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:41 | |
Securing a new Mwali arm band | 0:36:03 | 0:36:05 | |
will begin a new Kula partnership for Edric and Nagiya, | 0:36:05 | 0:36:09 | |
strengthening connections between these two distant islands. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:12 | |
Nagiya is on an absolute mission. | 0:36:15 | 0:36:18 | |
This guy is twice my age. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:19 | |
Gone up this cliff face in no time. | 0:36:22 | 0:36:23 | |
These arm bands aren't given away easily. | 0:36:26 | 0:36:29 | |
They must persuade possible Kula partners | 0:36:29 | 0:36:31 | |
that they are worthy of such a gift | 0:36:31 | 0:36:33 | |
and can repay this kindness in the future. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:36 | |
When he was younger, Nagiya had a reputation | 0:37:01 | 0:37:04 | |
for being an exceptionally smooth talker. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:07 | |
It looks like Nagiya is on the charm offensive. | 0:39:06 | 0:39:09 | |
The betelnut and tobacco have just come out. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:13 | |
But that Mwali is staying firmly on the wall so far. | 0:39:13 | 0:39:16 | |
As Kula has declined on Kiriwina, | 0:40:05 | 0:40:08 | |
and their expeditions ceased, | 0:40:08 | 0:40:10 | |
people on Iwa have found new Kula networks. | 0:40:10 | 0:40:13 | |
Nagiya is repeatedly shunned by his old partners. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:16 | |
It seems, for Nagiya, that he just doesn't have the influence any more, | 0:40:44 | 0:40:49 | |
after a 25-year absence, to own most of these pieces, | 0:40:49 | 0:40:54 | |
or they've already been promised to other people. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:57 | |
And it's a great shame really. | 0:40:57 | 0:40:58 | |
It's quite difficult following him around and... | 0:40:58 | 0:41:01 | |
seeing him get kicked back every time he knocks on somebody's door. | 0:41:01 | 0:41:07 | |
Shut out by his old Kula network, | 0:41:10 | 0:41:12 | |
Nagiya can only wander between the houses. | 0:41:12 | 0:41:15 | |
On the other side of the village, | 0:41:19 | 0:41:21 | |
Edric is facing a very different problem. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:23 | |
I don't know what's wrong with Edric, something's not right. | 0:41:29 | 0:41:32 | |
He's not really making eye contact and he's not talking to anybody. | 0:41:32 | 0:41:35 | |
Something is definitely up with him. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:37 | |
I feel scared, I feel nervous. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:44 | |
In fact, I feel petrified. Um... | 0:41:44 | 0:41:47 | |
..I have no idea how to manoeuvre or manage this Kula network, | 0:41:48 | 0:41:53 | |
but I carry a name, and therefore the people's expectation here | 0:41:53 | 0:41:58 | |
is that we have to live up to that level. | 0:41:58 | 0:42:01 | |
Because of the family Edric comes from, | 0:42:01 | 0:42:04 | |
he cannot do Kula with just anybody. | 0:42:04 | 0:42:07 | |
He can only mix with the island's aristocracy. | 0:42:07 | 0:42:10 | |
But what the people of Iwa don't know | 0:42:11 | 0:42:14 | |
is that Edric lives in a shack in the woods without a yam garden. | 0:42:14 | 0:42:18 | |
I just recently moved back, from the city, | 0:42:19 | 0:42:23 | |
and I am trying to get myself established. | 0:42:23 | 0:42:26 | |
Nothing is ready, nothing is ready at the moment. | 0:42:27 | 0:42:30 | |
My position back in the village, my village, | 0:42:30 | 0:42:34 | |
is one of just building up. | 0:42:34 | 0:42:37 | |
Um...definitely nowhere near | 0:42:37 | 0:42:41 | |
the capacity to be able to host | 0:42:41 | 0:42:44 | |
any Kula partners that may come from Iwa or from Kitava. | 0:42:44 | 0:42:48 | |
The whole Kula... | 0:42:50 | 0:42:52 | |
it's a lot easier to give than it is to receive. | 0:42:52 | 0:42:55 | |
Because when you receive, you also receive an obligation | 0:42:55 | 0:42:58 | |
and responsibility that comes with it. | 0:42:58 | 0:43:00 | |
I think Edric is having this realisation | 0:43:05 | 0:43:07 | |
that actually... | 0:43:07 | 0:43:10 | |
..for all of his going away, leaving this area, | 0:43:11 | 0:43:15 | |
going to university, taking jobs in the big city, | 0:43:15 | 0:43:18 | |
that actually all boils down to nothing over here. | 0:43:18 | 0:43:22 | |
He hasn't got a yam garden. | 0:43:22 | 0:43:25 | |
He's not really part of a village... | 0:43:25 | 0:43:27 | |
..and I think he's finding himself quite alone. | 0:43:28 | 0:43:31 | |
At the end of their first day, | 0:43:33 | 0:43:35 | |
neither Edric nor Nagiya have any Mwali. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:40 | |
The next day, Edric and Nagiya are up early. | 0:44:06 | 0:44:10 | |
They have decided to try the island's other village. | 0:44:13 | 0:44:16 | |
The reception immediately seems more welcoming. | 0:44:18 | 0:44:21 | |
People keep emerging out of houses and out of fields. | 0:44:21 | 0:44:25 | |
Just holding Nagiya's hand, or shaking hands with him. | 0:44:25 | 0:44:29 | |
He clearly knows people here. | 0:44:29 | 0:44:31 | |
Word has travelled overnight | 0:44:32 | 0:44:35 | |
and one of Nagiya's old partners has remembered him. | 0:44:35 | 0:44:38 | |
After 25 years, we've literally just arrived, | 0:44:39 | 0:44:42 | |
and they're already laying on a massive feast for Nagiya. | 0:44:42 | 0:44:46 | |
There's two tables here... | 0:44:46 | 0:44:48 | |
filled with goods. | 0:44:48 | 0:44:50 | |
Just inside, three Mwali hang on the wall. | 0:44:51 | 0:44:54 | |
It feels really strange for me, being present at this ceremony, | 0:45:51 | 0:45:54 | |
it's something that I've thought about so much | 0:45:54 | 0:45:56 | |
since we arrived here in Papua New Guinea. | 0:45:56 | 0:45:59 | |
The moment when I see the first Kula exchange. | 0:45:59 | 0:46:03 | |
I've seen during my travels just how much it means. | 0:46:05 | 0:46:10 | |
It's about...keeping and binding people to each other | 0:46:12 | 0:46:16 | |
from all of these different islands. | 0:46:16 | 0:46:18 | |
You have to provide food, you have to provide lodgings, | 0:46:20 | 0:46:23 | |
you have to be ready to receive your Kula partners | 0:46:23 | 0:46:25 | |
and you have to try and keep the link going | 0:46:25 | 0:46:27 | |
for as long as you possibly can. | 0:46:27 | 0:46:29 | |
This is symbolic of all of that. | 0:46:31 | 0:46:33 | |
Well done, Nagiya, well done. Very good, very good. | 0:47:04 | 0:47:07 | |
Good day, Nagiya. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:19 | |
LAUGHS | 0:47:19 | 0:47:21 | |
Great stuff! | 0:47:21 | 0:47:23 | |
Emboldened by Nagiya's success, | 0:47:29 | 0:47:32 | |
Edric sets off to look for Mwali. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:34 | |
In this solo situation, where you get thrown in a dip, | 0:47:37 | 0:47:41 | |
you have two choices. | 0:47:41 | 0:47:43 | |
You either swim or you sink. | 0:47:43 | 0:47:45 | |
This is the first time Edric has ever tried | 0:48:54 | 0:48:57 | |
to negotiate for a Kula piece. | 0:48:57 | 0:49:00 | |
This feels like a really significant moment. | 0:49:01 | 0:49:05 | |
Not only could this potentially be his first ever Mwali, | 0:49:05 | 0:49:09 | |
it could also be his first ever Kula connection. | 0:49:09 | 0:49:11 | |
If this does happen now, this could be an amazing chance for Edric | 0:49:11 | 0:49:16 | |
to step out of the shadow of his father and great-uncle. | 0:49:16 | 0:49:20 | |
Edric, what just happened? | 0:50:00 | 0:50:01 | |
Well, I just got given... | 0:50:01 | 0:50:04 | |
one Mwali. | 0:50:04 | 0:50:06 | |
-This is for you? -Yeah, this is for me. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:08 | |
Wow! How do you feel? | 0:50:08 | 0:50:10 | |
Er...excited. | 0:50:10 | 0:50:14 | |
Um...I suppose I wasn't really expecting that. | 0:50:16 | 0:50:20 | |
-Oh, I'm so pleased! -Yeah. -I heard you saying... | 0:50:20 | 0:50:23 | |
What was amazing for me is I could hear you saying, basically, | 0:50:23 | 0:50:26 | |
"Yeah, you know, I haven't actually got anything to offer, | 0:50:26 | 0:50:29 | |
"I have no real networks." You know, you were completely honest | 0:50:29 | 0:50:33 | |
and it looks like you got a serious reward, as well, so... | 0:50:33 | 0:50:36 | |
I'm quite glad that they've actually shown an act of faith. | 0:50:36 | 0:50:39 | |
-That faith, yeah. -Yeah, now... | 0:50:39 | 0:50:42 | |
You need to go and plant some yams. | 0:50:42 | 0:50:44 | |
BOTH LAUGH | 0:50:44 | 0:50:46 | |
Now the real obligations begin. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:49 | |
Yeah, right! | 0:50:49 | 0:50:51 | |
A lot of responsibilities... | 0:50:51 | 0:50:53 | |
MUSIC PLAYS | 0:50:53 | 0:50:56 | |
The start of a new Kula connection transforms everybody's mood. | 0:50:58 | 0:51:02 | |
HE SINGS | 0:51:02 | 0:51:05 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:51:05 | 0:51:08 | |
He's such a big kid. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:16 | |
It's nice to see him happy again. | 0:51:18 | 0:51:20 | |
You can't keep an old man down. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:24 | |
HORN BLOWS | 0:51:26 | 0:51:29 | |
That evening, Nagiya's new Kula partner calls a feast. | 0:51:29 | 0:51:33 | |
With the whole village attending, | 0:51:33 | 0:51:35 | |
I begin to understand why Kula is so important to an island like Iwa. | 0:51:35 | 0:51:39 | |
This is Kula hospitality. | 0:51:44 | 0:51:47 | |
What would happen here if there was no Kula? | 0:52:04 | 0:52:06 | |
I guess Kula is not about the physical exchange of Mwali. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:30 | |
That is the end symbol, | 0:52:32 | 0:52:34 | |
but Kula is everything else underneath. | 0:52:34 | 0:52:37 | |
It's a little bit like the ocean. | 0:52:38 | 0:52:40 | |
You have the waves that you can see, that you can feel. | 0:52:41 | 0:52:45 | |
What you do not see and what you do not feel | 0:52:45 | 0:52:47 | |
is the vast underwater current that moves. | 0:52:47 | 0:52:53 | |
Kula is about storytelling, conversations | 0:52:54 | 0:52:59 | |
and spending time with people. | 0:52:59 | 0:53:01 | |
Time is the item that is being traded. | 0:53:02 | 0:53:07 | |
We leave the next day, carefully loading the Mwali into the dinghy. | 0:53:20 | 0:53:24 | |
Edric and Nagiya bid farewell to their new Kula partners | 0:53:25 | 0:53:28 | |
with the promise of returning their hospitality. | 0:53:28 | 0:53:31 | |
Any Kula expedition that goes out, it's a challenge. | 0:53:41 | 0:53:44 | |
The biggest challenge is to prove to yourself | 0:53:46 | 0:53:49 | |
that you have what it takes to make the journey. | 0:53:49 | 0:53:53 | |
And when you come back, whatever you come back with, you come back | 0:53:56 | 0:54:00 | |
a lot more mature, a lot wiser | 0:54:00 | 0:54:02 | |
and a lot more responsible. | 0:54:02 | 0:54:05 | |
You'll be surprised that you are a very different man. | 0:54:07 | 0:54:09 | |
Work starts again now, boys! | 0:54:45 | 0:54:48 | |
Back to the gardens tomorrow. | 0:54:48 | 0:54:50 | |
We've been here less than two minutes | 0:55:12 | 0:55:14 | |
and Nagiya is already sat down on his porch | 0:55:14 | 0:55:16 | |
and has started recounting tales from his trip. | 0:55:16 | 0:55:19 | |
And for somebody as old as Nagiya, | 0:55:19 | 0:55:21 | |
that could well be the last time he ever goes on a Kula journey, | 0:55:21 | 0:55:24 | |
so it's his job now to inspire the next generation. | 0:55:24 | 0:55:28 | |
You can't help but feel that as these different islands | 0:55:31 | 0:55:34 | |
start going in their own different directions, | 0:55:34 | 0:55:36 | |
that it's moments like this that are so, so important | 0:55:36 | 0:55:40 | |
to somehow keeping them rooted to their traditions | 0:55:40 | 0:55:44 | |
and keeping the idea of Kula going. | 0:55:44 | 0:55:47 | |
'For Edric, who also need yams for his Kula partner, | 0:55:54 | 0:55:58 | |
'it's time to combine ancient tradition | 0:55:58 | 0:56:01 | |
'with 21st-century technology.' | 0:56:01 | 0:56:03 | |
This is a very Edric solution to a very old problem. | 0:56:03 | 0:56:07 | |
His Kula partners are coming in three months, so what's he done? | 0:56:07 | 0:56:10 | |
He's gone and got his laptop out, | 0:56:10 | 0:56:12 | |
he's set up a little cinema in his village | 0:56:12 | 0:56:14 | |
and he's charging one yam seed per seat. | 0:56:14 | 0:56:17 | |
I think we have to get started. | 0:56:27 | 0:56:29 | |
These people are getting a little impatient. | 0:56:29 | 0:56:31 | |
'But it's not to be Edric's night.' | 0:56:35 | 0:56:38 | |
Oh, no! The projector's on fire. | 0:56:38 | 0:56:40 | |
I think the fuse has blown, in the projector. | 0:56:51 | 0:56:54 | |
Back to the drawing board, Edric? | 0:56:57 | 0:56:58 | |
Well, obviously, things haven't gone to plan, but Edric assures me | 0:57:01 | 0:57:04 | |
that he will be back tomorrow, and he is going to try again. | 0:57:04 | 0:57:09 | |
And if I have learned anything about Kula, | 0:57:09 | 0:57:12 | |
it's that it is all about the journey. | 0:57:12 | 0:57:14 | |
'My own journey in the Coral Triangle has also come to an end.' | 0:57:23 | 0:57:28 | |
Oh, mate, thank you so much. | 0:57:28 | 0:57:29 | |
Thanks for everything. | 0:57:29 | 0:57:31 | |
'Within these waters, extraordinary communities continue to survive. | 0:57:32 | 0:57:36 | |
'I've been fortunate to witness their incredible skills. | 0:57:38 | 0:57:42 | |
'I have felt their warmth. | 0:57:44 | 0:57:45 | |
'And seen their resilience. | 0:57:48 | 0:57:50 | |
'Their futures will be shaped | 0:57:52 | 0:57:54 | |
'not only by the new forces that have arrived...' | 0:57:54 | 0:57:57 | |
That tanker is about | 0:57:57 | 0:57:59 | |
200, 300 times our size. | 0:57:59 | 0:58:01 | |
'..but by the choices the next generation make...' | 0:58:01 | 0:58:04 | |
Stand up! | 0:58:04 | 0:58:05 | |
'..as they adapt to this changing world.' | 0:58:05 | 0:58:08 | |
Stand up. Sit down. | 0:58:08 | 0:58:10 | |
As the planet becomes increasingly connected | 0:58:11 | 0:58:13 | |
and our cultures bleed into one another, | 0:58:13 | 0:58:16 | |
the survival of these people and their unique way of life | 0:58:16 | 0:58:21 | |
seems more important than ever. | 0:58:21 | 0:58:23 |