The Kula Ring Hunters of the South Seas


The Kula Ring

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There are people on our planet

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who are more at home in water than on land.

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CHILDREN HOLLER

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In a distant corner of the western Pacific lies the Coral Triangle.

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These waters are the richest on Earth,

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and the people here have adapted to ocean life like nowhere else.

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My name is Will Millard.

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Buena.

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I'm a writer and for much of the last eight years,

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I've been working and exploring in this remote region.

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God! This place is a minefield!

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I want to understand the unique bond these people

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have with the ocean, at a time of great change.

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I've never met a shark-finner before.

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Now I'm heading off on an expedition across the open sea...

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Here comes the rain.

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..in search of a trade route called the Kula Ring,

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which has linked remote islands for centuries.

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It's not just about this village or even just about this island,

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it's about placing yourself in the whole Kula Ring.

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But as a new form of trade emerges,

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can these ancient connections survive in the 21st century?

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-How much are they? 20?

-Yeah.

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ALL CHANT

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I want to find out what the future holds

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for these last hunters of the South Seas.

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In my travels around the Coral Triangle,

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I've always been curious about its remotest regions.

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The cultures here have found extraordinary ways

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to thrive, in spite of their isolation.

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So, I'm heading further east than I have ever been into Melanesia,

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where a different people, with their own language,

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live on a tiny outcrop called the Trobriand Islands.

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The Trobriand Islands are found 150 miles

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off the east coast of Papua New Guinea.

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They are famous because of a unique system of trade called Kula

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that links these tiny islands to many others

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in a great circle called the Kula Ring.

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To explore this ring, I'm beginning on Kiriwina,

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the largest island, home to the only airport in the region.

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This is my first time in the Trobriand Islands.

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What's "good" in the Trobriand language?

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-Sena buena.

-Sena buena. Very good!

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I already know two words and we've only just begun. Sena buena!

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This place feels so remote,

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but there are few places on the planet

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that have been studied quite as much as this place.

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For decades, it's welcomed anthropologists,

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linguists, academics.

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And they've all come here

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and they've discovered a culture that is like no other.

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For almost a century, European academics and explorers

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have flocked here,

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attracted to a culture so radically different to their own.

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At its heart lay Kula.

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As recently as the 1990s, film-makers still captured

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hundreds of islanders setting out in carved canoes,

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sailing across the sea on dramatic Kula expeditions.

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Kula is a complex network of gift-giving and trade

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that has been vital to the survival of these remote communities.

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The currency of Kula is elaborate armbands

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and necklaces made from shells,

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which are exchanged between different islands.

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But for the last 20 years, little has been heard of Kula,

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with rumours that money has now taken over on Kiriwina.

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I want to see what remains of this unique network

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and find where it is still important in the Kula Ring.

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Thanks, guys. All the best.

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Buena. Buena.

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Hello.

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My host is Edric Kasaipwalova, the island's only fixer and translator.

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So, this is the village.

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It's really beautiful.

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Edric has arranged for me to stay in his local village.

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-Everyone here is, one way or another, related to us.

-Right.

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All our uncles live here.

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ERIC SPEAKS IN HIS NATIVE TONGUE

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-Will, this is Nagiya.

-I'm William. Nagiya?

-Nagiya.

-Nagiya?

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Nice to meet you. Your village is very beautiful.

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Yes. ALL LAUGH

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Nagiya is my dad's cousin's brother.

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So, he and his family live here.

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OK, great. Which one's your house, Nagiya? Where do you live?

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-Right here?

-Yeah, that's his house.

-Fantastic!

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Oh, thank you, Nagiya. Buena.

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Well, shall we go and have a look at my new house?

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OK.

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THEY SPEAK IN THEIR NATIVE TONGUE

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Oh, superb! This is my home. This is it.

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This is where I'm going to be. Oh, look!

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Perfect! Nagiya, how did you know?

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WILL LAUGHS

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There we go.

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Nagiya lives in the middle of the island

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in one of the most traditional villages.

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-Pappa this one.

-OK.

-Mamma this one.

-Right.

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Where's Pappa?

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-Wake up!

-LAUGHTER

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Everybody in Nagiya's family is a farmer.

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Yams are the staple crop of these islands

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and today is planting day.

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Just leaving my village behind.

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It's just through there, round the corner.

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The first thing that strikes me here is...

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this place is seriously, seriously cultivated.

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There's sweet potatoes, bananas, taro.

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There's everything you need.

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Then...right in front of me here,

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you've got the start of all of the yam gardens.

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SINGING

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OK.

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So, I'll start digging?

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Yeah? OK.

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It's very dry. Yams are much more than food for Nagiya's family,

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they're integral to all Kula expeditions.

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We have a saying - if you're a man, you must have a yam garden.

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-Really?

-If you can't have a yam garden,

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you don't have a yam garden, you are not considered to be a man. Why?

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Because yams form the basis of wealth for men,

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because everybody uses yams for all the festivities,

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basically, any big ceremonies.

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Yams are treated much like money,

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with people such as Nagiya

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stockpiling them in yam houses, like a bank.

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These houses also show off the owner's wealth.

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Yeah.

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Kula, it seems, begins on the land, rather than the sea.

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ULULATING

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In the last three, four months,

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I've been travelling around these tiny communities

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where the sea is everything, surrounded by ocean every day,

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and yet here, it feels like everything is centred on the earth.

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That's not to say that the sea's not important,

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but everything has to start with the yam.

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So, you have got to put the dirt under your fingernails

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before you take to the sea.

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After a day's work, we relax Trobriand style,

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chewing betel nut.

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Watch this.

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Like it, huh?

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Betel nut is a mild stimulant that also dyes your teeth black.

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LAUGHTER

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Mmm. It's warm. I can feel it burning.

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LAUGHTER

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It's like I've been punched in the mouth.

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LAUGHTER

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-I can feel in my head a bit...

-Dizzy?

-Yeah, dizzy.

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LAUGHTER

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In some ways Nagiya's life

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seems remarkably unchanged from the old films.

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But this village is unusual.

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In the surrounding areas, many other yam houses lie half built or empty,

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much to Nagiya's disappointment.

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What's the impact on a traditional community celebration like Kula?

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Despite his enthusiasm,

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Nagiya hasn't been on a Kula expedition for nearly 20 years.

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COCK CROWS

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Goodness me! There's a lot of people, yeah?

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The next morning outside of Nagiya's village,

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thousands of people are heading to the northern shore five miles away.

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This is the village of Koibola and if couldn't feel more different.

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It's not even six o'clock in the morning

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and there's already hundreds of people here.

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This is the new economy in action.

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Oh, my God!

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An enormous passenger ferry looming on the horizon.

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That is...quite extraordinary!

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The Trobriand Islands are now on the cruise-ship circuit

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and 2,000 islanders are gathered to meet the boat.

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GRUNTING

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I don't know whether it's just me, but...that is absolutely insane.

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It looks like it is going to come

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straight into the island and swallow it whole.

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ULULATING

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ALL CHANT

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WHISTLING

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I don't really know how to feel about this.

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It is...quite bizarre.

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WHISTLING

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I don't want to, sort of, start sniping at...my own people,

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because, you know, essentially I'm a tourist, I'm a dim-dim.

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ALL CHANT

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I can't really figure out who's exploiting who?

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'Passing through our information desk.'

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This cruise ship will dock for only eight hours.

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How much for all of us?

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It's a brief window for passengers

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to explore the local culture and pick up souvenirs.

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How much are they? 20?

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-Yes.

-20 Kina?

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-You want Kina?

-Yes, please.

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-Imagine the effort put into this, eh?

-Yeah, right.

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He told us that big bowl that my partner just bought

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-took him about a week, so five days to make.

-Five days just to make that.

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And that's to put the shells and everything in it.

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That's extraordinary.

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-And he paid 100 Kina for it.

-Really?

-So, that's 50 Australia.

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50 Australian. So are you pleased with that?

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-Oh, yes.

-Definitely! Yeah.

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P&O have paid the village £2,000 to put on this event,

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and hired traditional Kula canoes from a neighbouring island

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to do trips round the bay.

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There's six Kula canoes out there.

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It's the first time I've seen them.

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There's one here just going past this P&O ferry.

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A tiny, tiny little Kula canoe just drifting around the back.

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That's quite a strong metaphor probably

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for what's going on here today.

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WHISTLING

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This mass tourism has created a new culture of Trobriand carving.

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They're carving objects and shapes

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that they've never seen before in their life.

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When was the last time that you saw an elephant on Kiriwina?

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This culture is not about carvings, it's about...agriculture,

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it's about people going on Kula expeditions,

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it's about everything that we are.

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-How much are they?

-This is all very, very foreign.

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With cash in their pockets,

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few of these people now have need for the Kula Ring.

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It's clear that, to see Kula in action,

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we'll have to travel to the other islands.

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20 years ago, it was Kula canoes, not cruise ships,

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that were regularly leaving these shores.

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Instead of cash, the valuables they carried

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were shell armbands called "mwali".

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These mwali armbands were given as gifts

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to Kula partners on different islands,

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creating a debt of obligation which had to be repaid.

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The relationships between Kula partners

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opened the way for other commerce.

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But at its heart, Kula was about power...

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and the network that was created

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as these mwali armbands moved around the Kula Ring.

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For over a generation, one chief called Nalebutau

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dominated the region.

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He controlled the most prestigious armbands

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and led many Kula expeditions.

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This man was Edric's great-uncle.

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Edric's privileged upbringing took him to university in Australia

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and a career in marketing.

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He returned last year to an island very different to his childhood.

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Edric moved to a hut outside his village.

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The time has passed.

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I went away for 11 years and I came back as a total stranger.

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And I felt... totally, totally uncomfortable.

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What I was taught when I was a child cannot be applied,

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cos the world has changed so much.

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I know the emotions attached with Kula,

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I know the techniques attached with Kula.

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I have never practised Kula myself,

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so I've got no idea about what the nature of the game is.

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In so many ways, it is like a missing jigsaw puzzle.

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It's almost like... there is a vacuum somewhere,

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there is a vacuum that needs to be filled.

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It's been an odd day.

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The arrival of a cash economy

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seems to be slowly suffocating traditional forms of wealth,

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but the cruise ship also brings thousands of people together,

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even drawing in Kula canoes from other islands.

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And, in a strange twist, these new arrivals can bring

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more exciting news from around the Kula Ring.

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-KNOCK AT DOOR

-Hello?

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Nagiya! What's going on?!

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WILL LAUGHS

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-Right!

-Yeah.

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Oh, my God! OK.

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OK, Nagiya, I'm coming.

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Let me just get my T-shirt on.

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I have no idea what's going on.

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WILL SPEAKS IN THE NATIVE TONGUE

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-Yeah?

-WILL LAUGHS

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Oh, man, everybody's here.

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Morning, everyone.

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It's a big moment, Will.

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All the mwali, apparently, have landed on Iwa

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and Nagiya's getting really excited!

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-Can we go and get 'em?

-Yeah, it's possible.

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There are some canoes that came from Katava.

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-Yeah?

-For the...tourist vessel.

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-We could always...

-You've got to be kidding me!

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No, we could always ask them

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if we can get a lift with them and go across to Kitava.

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-Sena buena!

-ALL:

-Sena buena!

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LAUGHTER

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Nagiya has heard that, on the remote island of Iwa,

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a Kula expedition has just returned home,

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bringing with it dozens of mwali armbands.

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These armbands can be Nagiya and Edric's entry point

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into the Kula network,

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if they can persuade the Iwa Islanders to part with them.

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THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE

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By hitching on the tourist canoes,

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we have our best shot at forging this new Kula partnership.

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That was an unforgettable morning.

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It's not your traditional Kula expedition,

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but that clearly doesn't matter to Nagiya,

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because he has dropped about 25 years today.

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I've never seen him so animated, laughing.

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He's absolutely full of life. I can't believe how lucky we've been.

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And, to be honest with you, God bless tourism.

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MAN SINGS IN NATIVE TONGUE

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Nagiya wants to leave the next day,

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which gives us one afternoon for packing and preparation.

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Rice? How much rice?

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10 kilos? 20 kilos? 50 kilos?

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Four Gentles, please.

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-This is the local tobacco?

-This is a block.

-OK.

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This is going to get us a lot of favours.

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We leave the following morning,

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heading to the village where the canoes have beached.

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BIRDSONG

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Wow!

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This is the most southerly point on Kiriwina.

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It feels like the ends of the earth.

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Thatched huts, white sand.

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Hello.

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WILL LAUGHS

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That's awesome.

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What an incredible ship.

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Goodness me!

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I'm so pleased to see these canoes, I can't tell you.

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Our journey will take us 12 miles east from Kiriwina

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to the island of Kitava, where we can pick up supplies

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before heading on to Iwa, where the mwali armbands are to be found.

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Ohh! Up!

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Hiya!

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ALL WHOOP

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The sail is absolutely enormous!

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It's loads of pieces of tarpaulin patched together.

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But that'll do.

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We're off, Nagiya!

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-Buena! Beuna!

-LAUGHTER

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The sail is up.

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Now we've just got to get between...

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the space between these two islands without getting completely soaked.

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MAN SPEAKS IN NATIVE TONGUE WILL LAUGHS

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These extraordinary canoes have made this journey for centuries.

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Each one is individually named and decorated,

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and specially built for Kula expeditions

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There's three guys in the middle here...bailing.

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The other guy, in charge of the rigging at the back,

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is in charge of the sail.

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And then, of course, there's me and Edric.

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And I think our primary role on this boat

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has been to try and block some of this water coming in over the sides,

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because it's been relentless.

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Here comes the rain.

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After a very wet morning, Kitava finally comes into view.

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This is it. Kitava.

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Absolutely flying in.

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The sail's coming down.

0:25:190:25:20

Hey-hey, hello!

0:25:220:25:24

MAN SHOUTS

0:25:240:25:26

Nagiya, we made it.

0:25:260:25:28

Brilliant.

0:25:320:25:33

Kitava is Kiriwina's smaller neighbour,

0:25:360:25:38

where Edric and Nagiya have strong clan connections.

0:25:380:25:42

But upon arrival here, Edric receives some upsetting news.

0:25:470:25:51

We just learnt, here in Kitava,

0:25:530:25:55

part of our clan has passed away,

0:25:550:25:58

and I have to trim my hair.

0:25:580:26:00

When somebody dies, that is the mark of a mourning period.

0:26:000:26:04

Very, very sad news for Edric,

0:26:070:26:09

and what it means in terms of Kula, is that all Kula activities

0:26:090:26:13

have to be suspended out of respect for the deceased,

0:26:130:26:16

and there should be an all-day funeral feast today

0:26:160:26:19

that we are going to attend.

0:26:190:26:21

Funerals are big public events in the Trobriands,

0:26:230:26:26

and Edric is very well known.

0:26:260:26:29

Half our rice supply is taken as a gift.

0:26:300:26:33

This is the only truck on the island and it's come to pick up Edric.

0:26:360:26:39

I think, um...

0:26:410:26:43

he's feeling the pressure today.

0:26:430:26:45

This is the first time he has ever gone to a funeral feast on Kitava.

0:26:450:26:49

You know, he's having to walk in the footsteps of the great Chief Nalebutau.

0:26:510:26:56

As our car travels across the island, we pick up fellow mourners.

0:26:590:27:03

Everybody recognises Edric's family name.

0:27:030:27:06

His father is a well-known person here, on Kitava Island.

0:27:070:27:11

-Edric carries his reputation with him.

-Yes.

0:27:130:27:15

Do you feel the pressure, Edric?

0:27:170:27:19

Yes, all of a sudden I feel that pressure, I didn't expect that.

0:27:210:27:26

His forefathers' reputation will follow Edric wherever he goes,

0:27:320:27:36

so he must behave accordingly.

0:27:360:27:38

The man died of old age

0:27:590:28:00

and is buried in the centre of the village.

0:28:000:28:03

Over 200 people are already here,

0:28:060:28:08

and with each new arrival, more food is brought.

0:28:080:28:12

People are arriving in streams, carrying piles of sticks

0:28:150:28:19

and baskets filled with yams.

0:28:190:28:21

And then they're erecting these little turrets

0:28:210:28:23

which they're filling to the top

0:28:230:28:25

with as many yams as they can fit in,

0:28:250:28:27

placing the biggest ones on the very, very summit.

0:28:270:28:30

This is a gift for the deceased's family.

0:28:300:28:33

Just like the Kula yam houses,

0:28:350:28:37

the wealthier the man, the taller his pile.

0:28:370:28:40

The women are set back from the village.

0:28:450:28:47

Just stood outside the widow's hut

0:28:510:28:53

and it's like nothing I've ever seen before.

0:28:530:28:57

She's sat just in a darkened corner.

0:28:570:28:59

Her friends just cutting her hair, as is customary.

0:29:000:29:03

Everybody around her is crying in this most rhythmical tone.

0:29:050:29:10

WAILING

0:29:100:29:12

It's the role of these women to publicly mourn,

0:29:140:29:17

and with every new arrival, a fresh chorus can be heard.

0:29:170:29:21

WAILING

0:29:210:29:23

What's astonishing about today is that this is actually

0:29:270:29:31

the death of a man in a village numbering no more than maybe 40,

0:29:310:29:36

and yet it's still so, so important to come here and show that you care.

0:29:360:29:41

What it all ties in to me is just how great

0:29:420:29:46

the sense of kinship and networking is amongst these people.

0:29:460:29:51

That it's not just about this village,

0:29:510:29:53

it's not even just about this island,

0:29:530:29:55

it's about placing yourself in the whole Kula Ring.

0:29:550:29:58

At midday, the feast is ready.

0:30:040:30:05

Edric's contribution of rice is given a very public showing.

0:30:090:30:13

His gift is fitting for his status,

0:30:130:30:16

and it will benefit Edric more than anybody else.

0:30:160:30:19

I never knew the deceased.

0:30:210:30:24

It doesn't really matter,

0:30:240:30:26

there is still a traditional obligation in place.

0:30:260:30:29

You still need to show face, but the consequences of that

0:30:290:30:33

strengthens many other links,

0:30:330:30:34

and also with Kula.

0:30:340:30:36

The relatives of the deceased, in one way, shape or form,

0:30:370:30:40

they will have to repay.

0:30:400:30:41

For Edric, today is no longer about saying goodbye to an old man,

0:30:450:30:50

it is about asserting his family name

0:30:500:30:52

and making sure that the deceased's family is indebted to him.

0:30:520:30:56

I've been watching him, and he has been squirreling his way

0:30:590:31:02

between every single one of the houses round here.

0:31:020:31:05

And in fact, at lunch-time he leant into me and said, you know...

0:31:050:31:09

.."It's quite something for a man of my standing

0:31:100:31:13

"to come to this funeral.

0:31:130:31:15

"These people aren't quite in the same league as my past."

0:31:150:31:21

Essentially, if these guys receive any Mwali any time soon,

0:31:220:31:26

it won't even be up for discussion, it has to come my way now,

0:31:260:31:30

they are obligated, because I have come here to show my face.

0:31:300:31:34

The funeral feast today was just an incredible experience.

0:31:500:31:56

Edric said from the start,

0:31:570:31:59

today is not about Kula, there's not going to be any exchanges today,

0:31:590:32:03

but it really WAS about Kula,

0:32:030:32:05

I could see him networking, I could see him making new relationships.

0:32:050:32:09

I think I'm beginning to realise that Kula is much more than

0:32:100:32:14

just the trading of shells.

0:32:140:32:15

It is travelling to different islands

0:32:150:32:18

and saying, "You are important, you are important to me.

0:32:180:32:22

"And the reason you are important is

0:32:220:32:23

"because we have a family history and we have a connection."

0:32:230:32:27

Well, it's another beautiful day today,

0:32:380:32:39

but there's virtually no wind.

0:32:390:32:42

The wind that there is, I can see is blowing in the wrong direction.

0:32:420:32:46

So what we are going to do is take the crew dinghy.

0:32:460:32:49

Maybe it's not as beautiful, but it's going to get us there at least.

0:32:500:32:54

We have been told there's over 100 Mwali on Iwa.

0:33:050:33:08

The journey there takes four hours

0:33:100:33:13

and Edric spends most of it in silence.

0:33:130:33:15

After a 25-year wait,

0:33:170:33:19

he is now very close to making his first Kula connections.

0:33:190:33:22

'As we get closer to the destination,

0:33:240:33:26

'there's a lot of anxious moments, I guess.'

0:33:260:33:28

Trying to figure out what is there for you,

0:33:280:33:33

what exactly are you going to say to your Kula partner?

0:33:330:33:37

'What is their expectation? What is my expectation?

0:33:380:33:41

'How should I be greeted?'

0:33:420:33:43

What is my game plan?

0:33:450:33:47

And what will be my Kula partner's game plan?

0:33:470:33:50

Wow, there it is, Iwa!

0:33:530:33:56

That is an extraordinary shape.

0:33:560:33:58

It's like a big, green table top in the middle of the sea.

0:33:590:34:02

Oh, right, we're here!

0:34:070:34:09

Good grief, well done, guys.

0:34:120:34:14

Iwa is one of the remotest islands in the region.

0:34:180:34:21

Flanked by 40-metre-high cliffs, its two villages lie at the summit.

0:34:210:34:26

Edric and Nagiya immediately begin changing into Kula dress.

0:34:290:34:33

They will work separately on Iwa,

0:34:340:34:37

each trying to find somebody to get them a Mwali arm band.

0:34:370:34:40

For Edric, failure would bring shame on his family's reputation.

0:34:410:34:46

My great-uncle has been here before so many times.

0:34:460:34:49

And everyone of the older generation on Iwa know about him.

0:34:490:34:54

I suppose I am the first one to come back here,

0:34:550:34:58

so it's a fair bit of pressure of expectation.

0:34:580:35:01

You do feel almost the weight of history

0:35:020:35:05

watching the guys sticking on the Kula ornaments.

0:35:050:35:08

You can't help to think about who else has been down here in the past.

0:35:080:35:12

Who's got ready in that cave?

0:35:120:35:13

And I'm beginning to see two very different sides to Edric and Nagiya.

0:35:150:35:19

I have to be honest, I feel quite sorry for Edric.

0:35:210:35:24

Everywhere he goes, people talk about his dad, Chief John and Nalebutau.

0:35:240:35:28

And I think he feels...

0:35:280:35:30

..immense stress to try and live up

0:35:310:35:33

to their expectations to be that man.

0:35:330:35:36

Nagiya, on the other hand, is having the time of his life.

0:35:370:35:41

Securing a new Mwali arm band

0:36:030:36:05

will begin a new Kula partnership for Edric and Nagiya,

0:36:050:36:09

strengthening connections between these two distant islands.

0:36:090:36:12

Nagiya is on an absolute mission.

0:36:150:36:18

This guy is twice my age.

0:36:180:36:19

Gone up this cliff face in no time.

0:36:220:36:23

These arm bands aren't given away easily.

0:36:260:36:29

They must persuade possible Kula partners

0:36:290:36:31

that they are worthy of such a gift

0:36:310:36:33

and can repay this kindness in the future.

0:36:330:36:36

When he was younger, Nagiya had a reputation

0:37:010:37:04

for being an exceptionally smooth talker.

0:37:040:37:07

It looks like Nagiya is on the charm offensive.

0:39:060:39:09

The betelnut and tobacco have just come out.

0:39:090:39:13

But that Mwali is staying firmly on the wall so far.

0:39:130:39:16

As Kula has declined on Kiriwina,

0:40:050:40:08

and their expeditions ceased,

0:40:080:40:10

people on Iwa have found new Kula networks.

0:40:100:40:13

Nagiya is repeatedly shunned by his old partners.

0:40:130:40:16

It seems, for Nagiya, that he just doesn't have the influence any more,

0:40:440:40:49

after a 25-year absence, to own most of these pieces,

0:40:490:40:54

or they've already been promised to other people.

0:40:540:40:57

And it's a great shame really.

0:40:570:40:58

It's quite difficult following him around and...

0:40:580:41:01

seeing him get kicked back every time he knocks on somebody's door.

0:41:010:41:07

Shut out by his old Kula network,

0:41:100:41:12

Nagiya can only wander between the houses.

0:41:120:41:15

On the other side of the village,

0:41:190:41:21

Edric is facing a very different problem.

0:41:210:41:23

I don't know what's wrong with Edric, something's not right.

0:41:290:41:32

He's not really making eye contact and he's not talking to anybody.

0:41:320:41:35

Something is definitely up with him.

0:41:350:41:37

I feel scared, I feel nervous.

0:41:400:41:44

In fact, I feel petrified. Um...

0:41:440:41:47

..I have no idea how to manoeuvre or manage this Kula network,

0:41:480:41:53

but I carry a name, and therefore the people's expectation here

0:41:530:41:58

is that we have to live up to that level.

0:41:580:42:01

Because of the family Edric comes from,

0:42:010:42:04

he cannot do Kula with just anybody.

0:42:040:42:07

He can only mix with the island's aristocracy.

0:42:070:42:10

But what the people of Iwa don't know

0:42:110:42:14

is that Edric lives in a shack in the woods without a yam garden.

0:42:140:42:18

I just recently moved back, from the city,

0:42:190:42:23

and I am trying to get myself established.

0:42:230:42:26

Nothing is ready, nothing is ready at the moment.

0:42:270:42:30

My position back in the village, my village,

0:42:300:42:34

is one of just building up.

0:42:340:42:37

Um...definitely nowhere near

0:42:370:42:41

the capacity to be able to host

0:42:410:42:44

any Kula partners that may come from Iwa or from Kitava.

0:42:440:42:48

The whole Kula...

0:42:500:42:52

it's a lot easier to give than it is to receive.

0:42:520:42:55

Because when you receive, you also receive an obligation

0:42:550:42:58

and responsibility that comes with it.

0:42:580:43:00

I think Edric is having this realisation

0:43:050:43:07

that actually...

0:43:070:43:10

..for all of his going away, leaving this area,

0:43:110:43:15

going to university, taking jobs in the big city,

0:43:150:43:18

that actually all boils down to nothing over here.

0:43:180:43:22

He hasn't got a yam garden.

0:43:220:43:25

He's not really part of a village...

0:43:250:43:27

..and I think he's finding himself quite alone.

0:43:280:43:31

At the end of their first day,

0:43:330:43:35

neither Edric nor Nagiya have any Mwali.

0:43:350:43:40

The next day, Edric and Nagiya are up early.

0:44:060:44:10

They have decided to try the island's other village.

0:44:130:44:16

The reception immediately seems more welcoming.

0:44:180:44:21

People keep emerging out of houses and out of fields.

0:44:210:44:25

Just holding Nagiya's hand, or shaking hands with him.

0:44:250:44:29

He clearly knows people here.

0:44:290:44:31

Word has travelled overnight

0:44:320:44:35

and one of Nagiya's old partners has remembered him.

0:44:350:44:38

After 25 years, we've literally just arrived,

0:44:390:44:42

and they're already laying on a massive feast for Nagiya.

0:44:420:44:46

There's two tables here...

0:44:460:44:48

filled with goods.

0:44:480:44:50

Just inside, three Mwali hang on the wall.

0:44:510:44:54

It feels really strange for me, being present at this ceremony,

0:45:510:45:54

it's something that I've thought about so much

0:45:540:45:56

since we arrived here in Papua New Guinea.

0:45:560:45:59

The moment when I see the first Kula exchange.

0:45:590:46:03

I've seen during my travels just how much it means.

0:46:050:46:10

It's about...keeping and binding people to each other

0:46:120:46:16

from all of these different islands.

0:46:160:46:18

You have to provide food, you have to provide lodgings,

0:46:200:46:23

you have to be ready to receive your Kula partners

0:46:230:46:25

and you have to try and keep the link going

0:46:250:46:27

for as long as you possibly can.

0:46:270:46:29

This is symbolic of all of that.

0:46:310:46:33

Well done, Nagiya, well done. Very good, very good.

0:47:040:47:07

Good day, Nagiya.

0:47:170:47:19

LAUGHS

0:47:190:47:21

Great stuff!

0:47:210:47:23

Emboldened by Nagiya's success,

0:47:290:47:32

Edric sets off to look for Mwali.

0:47:320:47:34

In this solo situation, where you get thrown in a dip,

0:47:370:47:41

you have two choices.

0:47:410:47:43

You either swim or you sink.

0:47:430:47:45

This is the first time Edric has ever tried

0:48:540:48:57

to negotiate for a Kula piece.

0:48:570:49:00

This feels like a really significant moment.

0:49:010:49:05

Not only could this potentially be his first ever Mwali,

0:49:050:49:09

it could also be his first ever Kula connection.

0:49:090:49:11

If this does happen now, this could be an amazing chance for Edric

0:49:110:49:16

to step out of the shadow of his father and great-uncle.

0:49:160:49:20

Edric, what just happened?

0:50:000:50:01

Well, I just got given...

0:50:010:50:04

one Mwali.

0:50:040:50:06

-This is for you?

-Yeah, this is for me.

0:50:060:50:08

Wow! How do you feel?

0:50:080:50:10

Er...excited.

0:50:100:50:14

Um...I suppose I wasn't really expecting that.

0:50:160:50:20

-Oh, I'm so pleased!

-Yeah.

-I heard you saying...

0:50:200:50:23

What was amazing for me is I could hear you saying, basically,

0:50:230:50:26

"Yeah, you know, I haven't actually got anything to offer,

0:50:260:50:29

"I have no real networks." You know, you were completely honest

0:50:290:50:33

and it looks like you got a serious reward, as well, so...

0:50:330:50:36

I'm quite glad that they've actually shown an act of faith.

0:50:360:50:39

-That faith, yeah.

-Yeah, now...

0:50:390:50:42

You need to go and plant some yams.

0:50:420:50:44

BOTH LAUGH

0:50:440:50:46

Now the real obligations begin.

0:50:460:50:49

Yeah, right!

0:50:490:50:51

A lot of responsibilities...

0:50:510:50:53

MUSIC PLAYS

0:50:530:50:56

The start of a new Kula connection transforms everybody's mood.

0:50:580:51:02

HE SINGS

0:51:020:51:05

LAUGHTER

0:51:050:51:08

He's such a big kid.

0:51:150:51:16

It's nice to see him happy again.

0:51:180:51:20

You can't keep an old man down.

0:51:220:51:24

HORN BLOWS

0:51:260:51:29

That evening, Nagiya's new Kula partner calls a feast.

0:51:290:51:33

With the whole village attending,

0:51:330:51:35

I begin to understand why Kula is so important to an island like Iwa.

0:51:350:51:39

This is Kula hospitality.

0:51:440:51:47

What would happen here if there was no Kula?

0:52:040:52:06

I guess Kula is not about the physical exchange of Mwali.

0:52:240:52:30

That is the end symbol,

0:52:320:52:34

but Kula is everything else underneath.

0:52:340:52:37

It's a little bit like the ocean.

0:52:380:52:40

You have the waves that you can see, that you can feel.

0:52:410:52:45

What you do not see and what you do not feel

0:52:450:52:47

is the vast underwater current that moves.

0:52:470:52:53

Kula is about storytelling, conversations

0:52:540:52:59

and spending time with people.

0:52:590:53:01

Time is the item that is being traded.

0:53:020:53:07

We leave the next day, carefully loading the Mwali into the dinghy.

0:53:200:53:24

Edric and Nagiya bid farewell to their new Kula partners

0:53:250:53:28

with the promise of returning their hospitality.

0:53:280:53:31

Any Kula expedition that goes out, it's a challenge.

0:53:410:53:44

The biggest challenge is to prove to yourself

0:53:460:53:49

that you have what it takes to make the journey.

0:53:490:53:53

And when you come back, whatever you come back with, you come back

0:53:560:54:00

a lot more mature, a lot wiser

0:54:000:54:02

and a lot more responsible.

0:54:020:54:05

You'll be surprised that you are a very different man.

0:54:070:54:09

Work starts again now, boys!

0:54:450:54:48

Back to the gardens tomorrow.

0:54:480:54:50

We've been here less than two minutes

0:55:120:55:14

and Nagiya is already sat down on his porch

0:55:140:55:16

and has started recounting tales from his trip.

0:55:160:55:19

And for somebody as old as Nagiya,

0:55:190:55:21

that could well be the last time he ever goes on a Kula journey,

0:55:210:55:24

so it's his job now to inspire the next generation.

0:55:240:55:28

You can't help but feel that as these different islands

0:55:310:55:34

start going in their own different directions,

0:55:340:55:36

that it's moments like this that are so, so important

0:55:360:55:40

to somehow keeping them rooted to their traditions

0:55:400:55:44

and keeping the idea of Kula going.

0:55:440:55:47

'For Edric, who also need yams for his Kula partner,

0:55:540:55:58

'it's time to combine ancient tradition

0:55:580:56:01

'with 21st-century technology.'

0:56:010:56:03

This is a very Edric solution to a very old problem.

0:56:030:56:07

His Kula partners are coming in three months, so what's he done?

0:56:070:56:10

He's gone and got his laptop out,

0:56:100:56:12

he's set up a little cinema in his village

0:56:120:56:14

and he's charging one yam seed per seat.

0:56:140:56:17

I think we have to get started.

0:56:270:56:29

These people are getting a little impatient.

0:56:290:56:31

'But it's not to be Edric's night.'

0:56:350:56:38

Oh, no! The projector's on fire.

0:56:380:56:40

I think the fuse has blown, in the projector.

0:56:510:56:54

Back to the drawing board, Edric?

0:56:570:56:58

Well, obviously, things haven't gone to plan, but Edric assures me

0:57:010:57:04

that he will be back tomorrow, and he is going to try again.

0:57:040:57:09

And if I have learned anything about Kula,

0:57:090:57:12

it's that it is all about the journey.

0:57:120:57:14

'My own journey in the Coral Triangle has also come to an end.'

0:57:230:57:28

Oh, mate, thank you so much.

0:57:280:57:29

Thanks for everything.

0:57:290:57:31

'Within these waters, extraordinary communities continue to survive.

0:57:320:57:36

'I've been fortunate to witness their incredible skills.

0:57:380:57:42

'I have felt their warmth.

0:57:440:57:45

'And seen their resilience.

0:57:480:57:50

'Their futures will be shaped

0:57:520:57:54

'not only by the new forces that have arrived...'

0:57:540:57:57

That tanker is about

0:57:570:57:59

200, 300 times our size.

0:57:590:58:01

'..but by the choices the next generation make...'

0:58:010:58:04

Stand up!

0:58:040:58:05

'..as they adapt to this changing world.'

0:58:050:58:08

Stand up. Sit down.

0:58:080:58:10

As the planet becomes increasingly connected

0:58:110:58:13

and our cultures bleed into one another,

0:58:130:58:16

the survival of these people and their unique way of life

0:58:160:58:21

seems more important than ever.

0:58:210:58:23

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