Living with Baboons Natural World


Living with Baboons

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In the deserts of Ethiopia, lives an extraordinary monkey -

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the Hamadryas baboon.

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REGGAE MUSIC

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They live, cheek-by-jowl, in close-knit families.

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Young babes-in-arms with their mothers,

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feisty teenagers, ready to leave home,

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and wise old grandparents who've seen it all before.

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As with all families, sometimes they fall out.

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THEY SCREECH

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These are clever animals,

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with complex relationships.

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For the last five years,

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one man has given up everything to try to understand them.

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He knows them all by name.

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They trust him to walk among them,

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and he looks out for them when they run into trouble.

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HE BARKS

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They share their home with the local tribe,

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who shoot baboons for target practice.

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Life with the baboons is full of ups and downs,

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and this year is going to be very special indeed.

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Awash National Park

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lies in the scorched desert lowlands

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of eastern Ethiopia.

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It was once the favourite hunting ground

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of the emperor Haile Selassie,

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and his favourite spot for bathing was a volcanic hot spring

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in the middle of the desert.

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Today, this very same palm oasis

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is home to a very special band of Hamadryas baboons.

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They live high in the cliffs in one large group, over 200-strong.

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There's no single leader in the group,

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but the lion-like males rule the roost,

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and lord it over their harems of females.

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For the last five years,

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every detail of the baboons' lives

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has been intimately observed

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by a pair of biologists -

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Australian Mat Pines,

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and his Ethiopian assistant, Teklu Tesfaye,

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are now honorary members of the family.

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It's a very special feeling to be amongst wild animals,

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and to be accepted by them -

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to be considered almost part of their environment.

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I don't know if they actually consider me as another baboon,

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or whether they consider me just another animal in their environment

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that's safe to be around.

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Being amongst them is almost like watching a soap.

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Watching the day-to-day things going on.

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There are a number of individuals here

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that I absolutely adore.

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Every time I cross their path, I just give a little greeting to them.

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Back here, we have Critical,

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and he has now got himself four females, quite quickly.

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What breaks my heart is,

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the young, skinny one on the edge is one of my favourites.

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These two come and visit me quite regularly.

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Now that she's with him,

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she doesn't come and see me any more.

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Calm is now the fourth female in Critical's harem,

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and still has a lot to learn.

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Mat has watched Critical grow up over the years,

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and hopes that this year

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he'll see Critical become a father

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for the first time.

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He'll have to keep a constant lookout for rival males,

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who are always waiting for a chance

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to kidnap one of his females.

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A large male called Frodo

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is already trying to move in on Critical's harem.

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Critical has to fight him off,

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and make sure his females stay close behind him for protection.

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If they don't stick with him, they'll be stolen.

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With order restored,

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Critical and his family settle down for the night.

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These cliff tops are a precious sanctuary for the baboons -

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safe from prowling predators on the plains below.

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For five years,

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Mat and Teklu have emerged from their tents each dawn,

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to prepare for another long, hot day in the desert.

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But this year will be Mat's last.

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He's decided it's time to move on,

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even though life as a volunteer has its attractions.

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My life is such a simple existence.

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I drink and wash in these hot springs.

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I'm far away from my friends and family.

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And I've had no salary for the last five years.

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It's a sacrifice, but it's worth it -

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to be with these baboons is an experience that no money could buy.

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Mat and Teklu spend every day,

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from dawn to dusk,

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following the baboons.

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They're now fluent in the subtle signs and sounds of baboon language.

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Hamadryas baboons

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have a very animated face.

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They have a whole wide range of expressions

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to really let you know exactly what they're feeling.

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They've got the eyebrow-raise,

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which is your first warning that they're a little bit annoyed.

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If you don't take that hint,

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they'll lunge at you a bit.

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An eyebrow-raise again,

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so I'm getting frustrated here.

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If that doesn't work, they start to...

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HE MOUTHS

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..grind their teeth.

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If that doesn't work, you get these...

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kind of look,

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almost like, "I can't believe he's still there.

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"Can't believe I have to keep threatening him."

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There's always disbelief in them.

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Then finally, if you still haven't got the message,

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they charge at you, and come right up to you,

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and really give you the full force of their power and their strength.

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Believe me, it is intimidating.

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The first fight of the day is brewing on the edge of the cliff.

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Once again, Critical is defending his family from attack.

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He's threatening another male, called Zaph,

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who's trying to steal one of his wives.

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THEY SQUEAL

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The fight is over quickly.

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Critical has come out on top,

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whilst Zaph is left screaming in surrender.

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Zaph's upset one of Critical's females.

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They started threatening each other,

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and Critical managed to grab Zaph in the mouth,

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and he's torn his cheek a good centimetre.

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There's a big hole there.

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As soon as he got that hole, Zaph screamed in surrender,

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this, "Ah! Don't hurt me any more".

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No wonder he was screaming.

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I can just feel that hole. Eurgh!

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Critical has acquired females very quickly,

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and I think it's cos he's prepared to fight.

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And he's not the biggest baboon around.

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But I guess it's not the size of the dog in the fight,

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but the size of the fight in the dog. And he is a real fighter.

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Critical has done his job, and kept his family safely together.

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His next big step as a new leader male

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is to produce his first offspring.

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With the fighting over, the group is calm once gain,

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and they slowly start to move off for the day.

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REGGAE MUSIC

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Mat and Teklu follow the group up to 20 miles a day,

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as they forage for food and water on these harsh, arid plains.

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Hamadryas are desert baboons.

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To eke out a living here, they can't afford to be fussy feeders.

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They'll eat plants, insects,

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even small mammals.

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Surviving in the desert is hard enough,

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but the baboons face an even bigger threat to their daily existence.

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The Afar people and their cattle.

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THEY SCREECH

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It's a bit hard on the poor baboons right now.

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They really get pushed around by the livestock.

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There's a herd of livestock here,

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another down this side, and another coming up behind us.

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So the baboons

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are now trying to get out of their way.

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If they're getting pushed, it means they miss out on water,

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miss out on time to rest, and on the opportunity to feed.

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It really can make for a difficult day for them.

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The Afar shoot baboons if they stray too close to their livestock.

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As a result,

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the baboons are terrified of them.

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The Afar have a violent reputation.

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For them, guns are a way of life.

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They're notorious for cutting off the testicles of their enemies,

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and wearing them as trophies.

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When we're following our baboons,

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we constantly encounter people with guns.

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They are everywhere here.

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I constantly find I'm talking to someone,

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and their gun is pointing at my face.

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"Just push that aside a bit, please".

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I've had guns pointed at me.

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I've had someone try to club me in the head

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with the butt of their Kalashnikov.

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Afars are not easy people to have as neighbours.

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We've had some very tense moments,

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where you're just not sure how it's going to pan out.

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It's unnerving - really quite scary.

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When they see Mat, the Afar freely admit to killing baboons,

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and make no bones about it.

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The Afar are taught to kill baboons from an early age,

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to help them improve their aim.

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Can you tell them that the baboons

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are for us what their cattle are to them.

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They're very important to us,

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so we'd really appreciate if they don't shoot...

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HE SPEAKS AFAR

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I can understand why they would defend their animals,

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cos their animals are their whole bank balance, their way of life.

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It's just this conflict of Afar

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and park wildlife.

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Sometimes there is problems when the two overlap.

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The Afar are not just killing individual baboons,

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they're also destroying their home.

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Awash National Park is literally being grazed to dust

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by the Afar's livestock.

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Where these plains once teemed with wildlife,

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now just a handful of animals remain.

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Some species have crashed by 80%

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in just ten years.

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If the illegal grazing continues in Awash,

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Mat's baboons, and the other wildlife, could disappear forever.

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Something has to change.

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Every evening, the baboons

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return to the safety of the cliffs,

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for a long grooming session before bed.

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Critical's new female, Calm,

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is carefully combing his mane.

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But grooming is not just about getting clean,

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it's an intimate family ritual

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that bonds them closer together.

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And Critical isn't the only one to get a grooming.

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I've got someone grooming me on the back.

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Teklu has been studying these baboons for ten years,

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and has been fully accepted as one of the group.

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Some juveniles, they're curious about my legs.

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They start to approach me,

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then they start grooming.

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They're pulling my hair sometimes. It hurt!

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Like all male baboons,

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Critical keeps a close eye on his wives.

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THEY SCREECH

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Calm is still learning the ropes,

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and has strayed too close to another male.

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You recall the cat calls - "Ah! Ah!"

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SHE BLEATS

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She's being submissive to him now,

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in the hope he doesn't bite her again.

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CRITICAL GRUNTS

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This grunting of his

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is sort of saying, "I'm not going to hurt you."

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She didn't do exactly what he wanted when he wanted,

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so, "Bam!" - he gets her.

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In the world of the Hamadryas,

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females have a very tough time.

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When it come to punishments, some males can be extremely brutal.

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SHE SQUEALS

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If you're ever reincarnated and come back to this world,

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I wouldn't suggest coming back as a female Hamadryas.

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Their life is pretty tough.

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SHE SQUEALS

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These females get very little say

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in which males they're with.

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It's the males who make that decision.

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If they stray too far from the male, he punishes them.

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You often see some females with bloody neck, torn ears.

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Life's pretty rough for them.

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The next morning, as Mat and Teklu arrive at the cliffs,

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Critical, and several other males, are on the rampage.

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THEY SQUEAL

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That's a male frenzy going on.

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All the males are showing their size and speed, just like this.

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It's all about power,

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and to demonstrate to the rest of the males how big and strong they are.

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All the males are jumping in the tree,

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giving it a good shake.

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They work themselves up into this frenzy.

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The females are just taking cover, they're squealing.

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It really is impressive.

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Hamadryas males love showing off.

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To survive as a leader male, they have to make it clear

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that they're not to be messed with.

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Now again, calm just settles over the group.

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Almost like nothing ever happened.

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That's Ken, named after my father.

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Good man, that one.

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Good man.

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Not all the males of the group are born leaders.

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Some are naturally weaker, and for them,

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Awash can be a particularly tough and unforgiving place to live.

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If any members of the group fall ill,

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they're simply left behind to die.

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This morning, Mat has noticed that one of the baboons

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is struggling to keep up with the rest of the band.

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He's an eight-year-old male called Serious,

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and he's clearly suffering.

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We can see straightaway

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that Serious, just in front of me,

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has already fallen to the back of the group.

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He's really struggling now to keep up with them.

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He's limping there,

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and you can see at the back end, he's really quite skinny -

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he's lost a lot of condition.

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There is something wrong with Serious' front right hand,

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and he's developed a nasty cough.

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SERIOUS COUGHS

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Serious can no longer climb trees

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to escape from predators,

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and he can't reach the baboon's most important food -

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the palm fruit which sustains them

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for five months of the year.

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Serious has to wait for scraps to rain down from above.

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Serious would normally live for another ten years,

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but Mat suspects he won't survive for long

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in this harsh environment.

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He does have this cyst or growth, or something, on his wrist.

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And he has a hacking cough.

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One of the dilemmas I face as a wildlife biologist

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is whether to interfere or not.

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Potentially, we might be able to help him and save his life,

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but the other side of the coin is our position here

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is to observe and see what happens.

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While for me personally, it's actually quite sad

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if Serious does die, cos I've known him for many years,

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I guess the harsh reality is

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his death may mean life for other animals.

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For jackals, for hyena, for vultures.

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It's the way things are here.

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SERIOUS COUGHS

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The dry season is approaching, and Mat has nine months left.

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The baboons are on their way to find water.

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Even for these desert specialists,

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the mid-day sun is fierce,

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and the baboons have to retreat to the shade.

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At this time of the day, the baboons just like to hang out in the shade,

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and just rest, cos it's just too hot for them.

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Unfortunately, the baboons have stolen the best shady spots.

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but I'll see if I can sneak in on the side without disturbing them.

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I'm envious of these young ones' energy.

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Almost any time of the day,

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they'll play.

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They chase each other around like tag, and play hide and seek.

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Anywhere, any place, there's always something they can play on -

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whether it's a termite hill, in the dust, in the mud...

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REGGAE MUSIC

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Though it may look like pure fun,

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there is a point to all this activity.

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In the rough and tumble of playtime,

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young baboons learn the fighting skills they'll need as adults.

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Today's king of the castle will be tomorrow's top male.

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Critical is clearly performing well

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in his new role as head of the family.

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His oldest female, Gunsch, is now pregnant,

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and his youngest female, Calm,

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Mat's favourite, is on heat and could soon be joining her.

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This is Critical coming in here now, with his four females.

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You can see the one closest to him

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is getting this swelling, so she's on heat.

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It's her oestrous cycle.

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She has to stay close to him.

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If she strays, he attacks her.

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Because he doesn't want

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any other males reproducing with her right now.

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You can see that female to his right - the biggest one -

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that intense red colour indicates pregnancy.

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So, probably within the next few months,

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we'll see Critical have his first baby.

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It's the start of his family.

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Mat has been working on the baboons project for free

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for five years.

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Now, aged 35, he wants to start his own family,

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and needs to find a job that pays.

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But he wants to leave

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knowing the future is safe for his beloved baboons.

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In just a matter months, I'll be leaving this place,

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leaving these baboons.

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So, my goal for this year

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is to do whatever I can to ensure that they do have a future.

0:23:190:23:23

I think this is going to entail me

0:23:230:23:27

really sitting down and discussing with the community here - the Afar,

0:23:270:23:31

to try and come up with a solution

0:23:310:23:33

that will allow both the baboons and the Afar

0:23:330:23:35

to co-exist.

0:23:350:23:37

Mat and Teklu have come to the Afar village of Wasaro

0:23:420:23:46

to visit the chief.

0:23:460:23:47

Mat has the daunting task

0:23:470:23:50

of trying to change the way the Afar see baboons.

0:23:500:23:54

To them, the baboons are simply pests that need shooting,

0:23:550:23:59

and are no good to anyone.

0:23:590:24:01

The chat plant is a natural narcotic that's sacred to the Afar.

0:24:200:24:24

Chewing chat together

0:24:240:24:26

is a social ritual that dates back thousands of years.

0:24:260:24:29

Only after all the necessary customs have been observed

0:24:410:24:45

can the meeting formally begin.

0:24:450:24:49

Baboons in Awash... You don't find them in many places around the world,

0:25:000:25:03

so it's quite special.

0:25:030:25:05

We're interested in learning more about them.

0:25:050:25:07

The Afar were here long before the national park was created.

0:25:240:25:28

They were cleared by force from their lands,

0:25:280:25:30

and have nowhere else to go.

0:25:300:25:32

Their ancient way of life is all they know.

0:25:320:25:35

The Afar believe the baboons were once people

0:25:500:25:53

who were punished by God and banished to the wilderness.

0:25:530:25:57

They're seen as outcasts.

0:25:570:26:00

It won't be easy to stop the Afar from killing baboons,

0:26:020:26:05

but Mat can't just walk away - he has to try and make peace.

0:26:050:26:09

There is a direct conflict between our baboons and the Afar.

0:26:140:26:19

The baboons don't have a voice, they don't have guns.

0:26:190:26:22

It hasn't been an easy relationship I've had with the Afar.

0:26:220:26:27

I do want to improve, but more so

0:26:270:26:30

I want the baboons' relationship with the Afar to improve,

0:26:300:26:33

so the baboons are safe and do have a future here.

0:26:330:26:36

This is a conflict that's being played out

0:26:470:26:50

in almost all the national parks across East Africa.

0:26:500:26:54

Both the wildlife and the people have a right to be here.

0:26:540:26:58

The baboons have lived on these cliffs for thousands of years,

0:26:580:27:02

but if the destruction of the national park continues unabated,

0:27:020:27:06

their home will be destroyed,

0:27:060:27:08

and there will be nowhere left for them to live.

0:27:080:27:11

The dry season has begun in earnest.

0:27:330:27:37

Within a few hours, temperatures will climb to over 40 degrees.

0:27:370:27:43

At this time of year, the weak and the infirm

0:27:430:27:47

struggle to survive.

0:27:470:27:49

Serious, the sick eight-year-old male,

0:27:500:27:53

is in grave danger.

0:27:530:27:54

SERIOUS COUGHS

0:27:540:27:56

He's been left behind by the rest of the band,

0:27:590:28:01

and is all alone on the cliffs.

0:28:010:28:03

Hamadryas baboons stick together for safety.

0:28:050:28:08

Serious is now highly vulnerable to attack

0:28:080:28:10

from leopards and hyenas.

0:28:100:28:13

Without the protection of the group,

0:28:220:28:25

Serious is unlikely to survive another night.

0:28:250:28:28

SERIOUS COUGHS

0:28:290:28:32

Mat knows he may never see Serious again.

0:28:350:28:38

Mat and Teklu have walked an hour from camp

0:28:500:28:54

to find the rest of the band,

0:28:540:28:55

who've spent the night on a different cliff.

0:28:550:28:58

When they find the baboons,

0:29:000:29:02

Mat notices that Beth

0:29:020:29:04

has a brand-new infant.

0:29:040:29:07

When they're first delivered, new babies are covered in black fur,

0:29:090:29:13

and a source of great excitement to all the females.

0:29:130:29:16

But this infant is not moving.

0:29:160:29:19

It's suspected murdered.

0:29:190:29:21

We just got here this morning,

0:29:230:29:25

and it looks like Beth's black infant is dead.

0:29:250:29:28

I can't see any sign of injury on him.

0:29:280:29:30

Frodo recently stole Beth from another male.

0:29:320:29:35

It looks like he's just killed Beth's infant.

0:29:350:29:37

Infanticide is really common in these situations.

0:29:370:29:40

Males kill the infants so that the new wife

0:29:400:29:43

will give birth much sooner to their own infant.

0:29:430:29:46

It's a really sad thing to see.

0:29:490:29:51

As the band moves off for the day, Beth struggles to keep up.

0:30:010:30:05

Normally, even a brand-new infant would naturally grip

0:30:070:30:10

onto its mother from below as she travels.

0:30:100:30:12

Sometimes they will ride on top of her back.

0:30:150:30:18

But Beth has to carry the full weight of her dead baby,

0:30:190:30:22

and it's slowing her down.

0:30:220:30:24

For days on end, Beth refuses to abandon her baby.

0:30:330:30:37

For her it's very difficult.

0:30:440:30:46

She has to take care of her infant the whole day.

0:30:460:30:48

She never let go for five or six days.

0:30:480:30:51

Even when she sleeps, she never lets go.

0:30:520:30:54

The whole night she will be screaming. She feels very sad.

0:30:540:30:58

Me too, I get sad. Can't do anything.

0:30:580:31:01

It's now seven months until Mat leaves.

0:31:120:31:17

He's got a plan for the next step in building bridges with the Afar.

0:31:170:31:21

Having asked the chief at his meeting what he could do to help,

0:31:300:31:34

Mat has raised funds to buy a new solar-powered light

0:31:340:31:37

for the village mosque.

0:31:370:31:39

The Afar are Muslim, and for them,

0:31:390:31:42

prayer is an incredibly important part of their life,

0:31:420:31:45

so one of the things they've asked us to do is to provide solar lighting,

0:31:450:31:49

so that the children can learn the Koran during the night time.

0:31:490:31:53

So this is, for us, a really positive way that we can help the community,

0:31:530:31:57

and it's a good way to strengthen our relationship with the Afar.

0:31:570:32:01

It's a small step, but gives Mat a little more hope.

0:32:270:32:31

As the dry season peaks, the temperature moves up to 45 degrees.

0:32:380:32:43

Everyone is feeling the pressure, especially the baboons.

0:32:460:32:50

Today, the group is in a strange and hostile mood.

0:32:500:32:53

BABOON SHRIEKS

0:32:560:32:59

He wasn't really threatening me there,

0:33:070:33:08

but he was indicating to the others that he was upset,

0:33:080:33:12

and this is a call for the others to come and help me,

0:33:120:33:14

but he wasn't really giving me the eyebrow raise and everything.

0:33:140:33:17

It was just a, "This guy's a threat! Come here!"

0:33:170:33:20

They're really stirred up at present.

0:33:210:33:23

You can hear them.

0:33:230:33:26

Something is in the air.

0:33:290:33:32

The baboons are restless and feeling threatened,

0:33:320:33:34

and when they arrive back at their sleeping cliffs, Mat discovers why.

0:33:340:33:38

Now the baboons have arrived at their cliff,

0:33:400:33:42

they've found that another band has actually moved in and occupied it.

0:33:420:33:46

With the two bands together,

0:33:480:33:49

there are over 500 baboons trying to squeeze onto the cliffs.

0:33:490:33:53

The tension is rising, and they're about to go to war.

0:33:550:33:58

Oh, here we go. It's kicking off.

0:34:050:34:07

They both want to share the same cliff.

0:34:070:34:10

The chaos of battle presents a perfect opportunity to steal

0:34:150:34:18

females from the other band.

0:34:180:34:20

The two different bands are running a couple of metres apart,

0:34:310:34:33

and you see individuals charging in, trying to disperse them.

0:34:330:34:37

But the noise, the noise is so loud!

0:34:370:34:40

BABOONS SHRIEK

0:34:400:34:43

You have these moments of quietness when everything just settles,

0:34:460:34:50

and then it can just build up again.

0:34:500:34:51

It only needs someone to charge, and suddenly they're back at each other.

0:34:510:34:55

It's females screaming, so they squeal to bring up their male,

0:34:550:34:59

and it's working.

0:34:590:35:01

She's going to start a war here.

0:35:010:35:03

Over here it's building up again.

0:35:050:35:07

Listen to that noise.

0:35:200:35:22

BABOONS SHRIEK

0:35:220:35:24

As Mat moves closer to the centre of the action,

0:35:240:35:27

he can barely make himself heard above the roar of baboons.

0:35:270:35:30

This is the front line just here.

0:35:330:35:35

The noise is massive, and they're pushing them away. Wow!

0:35:350:35:40

There is now 500 or 600 baboons here, all back and forth.

0:35:400:35:43

They're trying to scoop them up,

0:35:430:35:45

and also have a cliff to sleep on tonight.

0:35:450:35:47

I suspect this is going to be a really wild night.

0:35:520:35:54

The two groups fight on into the darkness.

0:35:540:35:57

Mat leaves his baboons, not knowing what may happen overnight.

0:35:570:36:02

The next morning, Mat and Teklu return to the cliffs

0:36:120:36:17

to assess the damage to the group in the aftermath of battle.

0:36:170:36:21

You can see, they're still a bit nervous.

0:36:210:36:24

Still giving me a bit of space.

0:36:240:36:26

I've been doing a roll call of our baboons this morning

0:36:290:36:32

since that big fight, just to see if they've lost any females

0:36:320:36:36

or actually gained any, and there doesn't appear to be any change.

0:36:360:36:39

I think Critical has managed to keep all of his females.

0:36:390:36:42

It's not an easy feat, to hang onto all those females

0:36:420:36:45

when all this chaos is happening around him, so he's done really well.

0:36:450:36:48

But in his valiant efforts to keep his family safely together,

0:36:490:36:53

Critical has been injured.

0:36:530:36:55

It looks like Critical's front tooth is very loose.

0:36:560:37:00

It looks like it's causing him discomfort,

0:37:000:37:02

because he's constantly licking it.

0:37:020:37:04

Oh!

0:37:050:37:07

Somebody call a dentist.

0:37:080:37:10

It will be interesting, now, to see just how it affects his behaviour,

0:37:110:37:14

because he wouldn't want to be fighting while he's got this problem.

0:37:140:37:18

It sends shivers down my spine to see his tooth flopping about.

0:37:200:37:23

It seems that this is one battle he didn't win.

0:37:250:37:28

He's now got himself an injury.

0:37:280:37:30

Critical is not the only casualty.

0:37:330:37:35

A young infant has received a severe bite on the arm.

0:37:350:37:39

That injury is like having a shark bite. There's really a chunk missing.

0:37:400:37:45

Normally, they tear each other, rip each other,

0:37:450:37:47

but not tear chunks of flesh.

0:37:470:37:49

That's as bad as I've ever seen.

0:37:490:37:52

I don't think this guy's going to last, unfortunately.

0:37:520:37:54

With that arm completely out of action,

0:37:540:37:57

he's going to struggle to survive.

0:37:570:37:59

Critical's injury makes him vulnerable,

0:38:030:38:05

and the other males waste no time in trying to take advantage.

0:38:050:38:10

Sensing his weakness, a gang of three males are trying

0:38:120:38:15

to steal his females, but Critical is not backing down.

0:38:150:38:19

There goes Critical. He's chasing them.

0:38:220:38:25

Critical against three males, there, and able to keep them all at bay.

0:38:310:38:34

He's played his hand very well here.

0:38:340:38:35

The baboons must now travel further and further each day

0:38:420:38:44

to find food and water.

0:38:440:38:46

The searing desert heat is taking its toll.

0:38:510:38:54

At this time of year, the Afar and their cattle are starving.

0:39:000:39:05

Every night, after bringing in their livestock,

0:39:050:39:08

the men gather together to pray to God to bring them rain.

0:39:080:39:11

For the Afar, the drought is the hardest time of the year.

0:39:170:39:20

It's a time of death and hunger.

0:39:200:39:23

Their only hope is for God to bring rain to end the suffering.

0:39:230:39:28

The next day, the sun is as hot as ever,

0:40:040:40:07

and the baboons are on the move early.

0:40:070:40:10

As usual, they head straight for the palm fruits, their favourite food.

0:40:100:40:14

Critical has now lost his wobbly tooth,

0:40:160:40:18

and he's finding it hard to break through the fruit's tough shell.

0:40:180:40:22

The Hamadryas baboons in this part of Ethiopia

0:40:260:40:28

are amongst the biggest in the world,

0:40:280:40:30

and the key reason for this is the palm fruit.

0:40:300:40:33

The palm fruit here is able to sustain the baboons for up to

0:40:340:40:37

four to five months per year.

0:40:370:40:40

It's a food that both the Afar and the baboons like.

0:40:400:40:42

The palm trees of Awash are essential to the baboons' survival.

0:40:470:40:52

Without them, they would not be here.

0:40:520:40:55

But the palms are being systematically cut down by the Afar,

0:40:560:40:59

who sell them for cash during the dry season when times are hard.

0:40:590:41:04

Every palm that's taken is one less fruit tree for the baboons.

0:41:060:41:11

Their most important food supply is rapidly dwindling.

0:41:110:41:15

Is there as much palm today as there was when he was a small boy?

0:41:350:41:38

It's actually well worth just chatting to those guys to hear

0:42:080:42:10

about this problem, how they can't support themselves any more

0:42:100:42:14

with just livestock alone, and they're now turning to the palm,

0:42:140:42:17

even though they recognise that the palm population is decreasing.

0:42:170:42:21

As the baboons return to the cliffs, once again,

0:42:220:42:26

they're all on edge.

0:42:260:42:28

Two hyenas are prowling at the bottom of the cliffs,

0:42:320:42:36

and Critical and the rest of the group are alarm-barking.

0:42:360:42:39

By alerting each other to the presence of predators,

0:42:450:42:49

the baboons have successfully driven off the hyenas.

0:42:490:42:53

But as one threat goes away, another rears its head.

0:42:530:42:57

The Afar have been at the baboons' precious sleeping spot,

0:42:570:43:00

cutting down palm leaves.

0:43:000:43:02

This is unbelievable.

0:43:020:43:04

Just here, on top of the cliff where our baboons sleep,

0:43:040:43:07

the Afar have been busy cutting the palm leaf.

0:43:070:43:10

If it's overdone, it just kills the tree.

0:43:110:43:14

And this is really bad news for the baboons.

0:43:140:43:17

If we lose these trees, that will decimate this whole group.

0:43:170:43:22

I have such an emotional attachment to these animals,

0:43:220:43:24

I would hate to see anything happening to them.

0:43:240:43:27

This is so disappointing.

0:43:270:43:29

Sometimes I think, "Why am I here?"

0:43:360:43:38

Five years without a salary, five years of struggling,

0:43:410:43:44

very difficult conditions, and at the end of it,

0:43:440:43:47

am I going to have anything to show

0:43:470:43:49

for the conservation work I've done here?

0:43:490:43:51

It's very good right now just to be amongst the baboons, because

0:43:540:43:57

they really do take my mind off some of the difficulties I sometimes face.

0:43:570:44:00

This is a gift that they don't even know they give me.

0:44:000:44:03

The Afar's prayers have been answered.

0:44:160:44:19

Finally, the rainy season has arrived.

0:44:190:44:22

Baboons hate the rain.

0:44:340:44:37

These once-majestic males look truly miserable.

0:44:380:44:42

They're in no rush to move off for the day,

0:44:450:44:47

and are staying put in their sleeping spot.

0:44:470:44:50

At least they can have a drink without having to travel.

0:44:570:45:00

It's funny watching the baboons in the rain.

0:45:080:45:10

It's almost like they're a wet dog.

0:45:100:45:11

They just pull their head in and curl up into a ball,

0:45:120:45:17

and the youngsters tend to cuddle up amongst their mother or the father.

0:45:170:45:20

At long last, the pressure of the dry season has been released.

0:45:230:45:27

Once the storm has passed, the baboons dry out

0:45:360:45:39

and then venture into a whole new world.

0:45:390:45:41

The sparse desert is transformed overnight into a land of plenty.

0:45:570:46:01

The wet season shows Awash in its greatest glory.

0:46:110:46:16

It's a unique place, home to some very special animals.

0:46:160:46:19

This is Mat's favourite time of year.

0:46:280:46:31

With so much grass around, the Afar don't need to graze their cattle

0:46:310:46:35

in the park, and don't harass the baboons.

0:46:350:46:38

It's a time of peace and abundance for all.

0:46:380:46:41

Since the wet season, this whole area is completely transformed.

0:46:420:46:45

Before it was just dust,

0:46:450:46:47

and now the baboons are just moving through this sea of grass.

0:46:470:46:50

There's food everywhere for them.

0:46:500:46:52

So for the baboons, this is the best time of the year.

0:46:520:46:55

Mat's time in Awash will soon be over.

0:47:040:47:07

He knows that if the baboons and their home are to have a future,

0:47:110:47:15

he has to persuade the Afar to see them differently.

0:47:150:47:19

These baboons are a valuable asset to this region, to the people,

0:47:200:47:26

attracting researchers, attracting tourists.

0:47:260:47:29

We really need to show the community just how valuable these baboons are.

0:47:290:47:35

Mat has worked hard all year to make friends with the Afar,

0:47:360:47:40

and he's starting to earn their trust.

0:47:400:47:42

Now he wants to show them a way of living with baboons

0:47:420:47:45

that could actually be of benefit to them.

0:47:450:47:48

With time running out, Mat has come up with a plan.

0:47:520:47:56

He and Teklu are heading off on a road trip.

0:47:560:47:59

In the back are three Afars from the local village.

0:48:020:48:05

The two Alis, and Muhammad in the middle.

0:48:050:48:08

They're travelling 240 miles north to the highlands of Ethiopia,

0:48:100:48:14

to the Guassa grasslands,

0:48:140:48:16

home to another type of monkey called the Gelada.

0:48:160:48:19

Gelada are a really special primate

0:48:200:48:22

found only in the Ethiopian highlands.

0:48:220:48:24

What I want these guys to see is how the community

0:48:260:48:28

is benefiting from conserving these primates.

0:48:280:48:31

The area where we're going is well over 3,000 metres above sea level.

0:48:330:48:36

It's an absolutely beautiful landscape, but very cold.

0:48:360:48:41

For these guys, they've never been to the highlands,

0:48:410:48:43

so it's completely new for them.

0:48:430:48:45

Finally, after nine hours' driving, they arrive at the lodge

0:49:180:49:22

owned and run by the local community.

0:49:220:49:25

After warming up and borrowing boots and waterproofs,

0:50:030:50:06

the Afar are ready to go and see the Gelada.

0:50:060:50:09

Gelada are totally unique to Ethiopia,

0:50:220:50:24

and with their long, woolly coats,

0:50:240:50:27

they're perfectly adapted to life on this cold, wet plateau.

0:50:270:50:31

It's such a different environment, a different situation to Awash,

0:50:340:50:39

and yet these animals kind of look similar,

0:50:390:50:42

but in a completely different context.

0:50:420:50:45

They call these the Bleeding Heart Gelada,

0:50:450:50:48

because of this red patch they've got on their chest, there.

0:50:480:50:51

They're superb animals, they really are.

0:50:510:50:53

Not as good as Hamadryas, but still good.

0:50:530:50:56

For the Afar, it's unusual to get this close to wild animals,

0:51:010:51:05

as they normally scare them off.

0:51:050:51:07

Do you think you'd like to move up here and study these guys instead?

0:51:410:51:45

No, I'd like to move these guys over there.

0:51:450:51:48

I think I might have a few new field assistants to help me study the Hamadryas.

0:51:490:51:53

These guys are really getting into it.

0:51:530:51:56

They're absolutely fascinated by these Gelada.

0:51:560:51:59

The grasslands have been carefully protected

0:52:190:52:22

by the community for over 400 years.

0:52:220:52:24

They use the grasses for thatching their roofs,

0:52:260:52:28

and have strict limits on grazing

0:52:280:52:31

to ensure the survival of this precious resource.

0:52:310:52:34

The people here have found a way of living on their land

0:52:340:52:37

without destroying it.

0:52:370:52:38

And they're happy to share it with the Gelada,

0:52:400:52:43

as they bring in visitors and extra income.

0:52:430:52:45

After a long day following the Gelada up and down steep slopes,

0:52:500:52:55

the lowland visitors are exhausted, but Mat's plan

0:52:550:52:59

to open their eyes to a new way of looking at wildlife

0:52:590:53:03

seems to have worked.

0:53:030:53:04

My hope is now that when they go back to their villages,

0:53:470:53:50

they can really sit down and discuss with their other community members

0:53:500:53:54

and tell them about their experience here, and what they've learned,

0:53:540:53:57

and hopefully we might see a bit of an attitude change

0:53:570:54:00

in the Afar towards the Hamadryas. That's the big goal here.

0:54:000:54:04

I think we've taken a step towards it.

0:54:040:54:07

The time has come for Mat to leave his baboons.

0:54:330:54:37

He's come for one last visit. A chance to reflect on their future.

0:54:390:54:43

It's a future intertwined with that of the Afar people.

0:54:450:54:49

But can they change their ancient way of life

0:54:490:54:51

and stop destroying the baboon's home?

0:54:510:54:54

It's not an easy process just to make them

0:54:580:55:00

switch from one thing to another.

0:55:000:55:02

This takes a long time,

0:55:020:55:03

and we're talking maybe decades for this change to happen.

0:55:030:55:06

The question here is will this land survive decades? I don't know.

0:55:060:55:12

I don't think there's that much time left now.

0:55:120:55:15

I think we're really at a critical point

0:55:150:55:16

where something needs to change, and change soon.

0:55:160:55:19

Mat is doing a final check on his favourite individuals

0:55:240:55:28

before saying his goodbyes,

0:55:280:55:29

and there's a little surprise waiting for him.

0:55:290:55:33

The infant with the badly injured arm is now thriving.

0:55:350:55:38

What's really promising is the infant is actually looking quite healthy

0:55:390:55:44

despite his really severe injury.

0:55:440:55:46

I think he's going to be OK. I have a good feeling about this one.

0:55:460:55:49

And Critical has become a father.

0:55:530:55:56

His oldest female, Gunsch, has a new infant,

0:55:580:56:01

and she's keeping a tight hold of him

0:56:010:56:03

as he tries to explore his world.

0:56:030:56:05

And just last night, his youngest wife, Calm - Mat's old favourite -

0:56:080:56:12

gave birth to a baby girl, and she's attracting

0:56:120:56:16

a great deal of attention from the other admiring females.

0:56:160:56:20

His family just continues to grow.

0:56:270:56:29

This is really positive news for Calm, the new mother.

0:56:290:56:33

This is a whole new experience for her. She's never had a baby before.

0:56:330:56:37

The early sign seems like

0:56:380:56:39

she's taking really good care of the infant.

0:56:390:56:42

I don't think Critical's going to get Father of the Year.

0:56:430:56:46

Some of the males are very tolerant with their black infants.

0:56:460:56:49

They allow them to climb all over them.

0:56:490:56:51

I really just don't think Critical's that kind of guy.

0:56:510:56:53

The most important thing he can do is just to take care of the mothers

0:56:550:57:00

and defend their babies, and if he does that, then he's done his job.

0:57:000:57:04

In his five years here, Mat has made a difference.

0:57:120:57:15

Thanks to him and Teklu,

0:57:200:57:21

the Afar are starting to see the animals around them differently.

0:57:210:57:24

Keep in touch.

0:57:260:57:27

It's a small seed of change, but if it grows,

0:57:280:57:32

then there's real hope for the baboons and their desert home.

0:57:320:57:36

To say goodbye to these baboons, I think that's the hardest part.

0:57:410:57:46

For me, they have been the highlight of this place.

0:57:480:57:52

To share in their life, to almost be accepted by them

0:57:530:57:57

as one of their group, their social order,

0:57:570:58:01

it's going to be really sad to leave these guys.

0:58:010:58:03

My one big hope is that both the baboons and the Afar

0:58:070:58:11

can peacefully coexist

0:58:110:58:13

and that this magnificent place could have a really good future.

0:58:130:58:18

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