France: The Wild Side Natural World

Wolves,

once hunted to near extinction, now roam the forests.

Birds, once scarce, fly high in the sky.

Hidden secrets can be discovered in the ocean depths.

Even bears can be found high up in the mountain ranges.

This is a country of extreme landscapes and dramatic backdrops.

There's a whole array of diverse, unusual, and stunning wildlife...

..in an ancient wilderness that is being rediscovered.

This is one of our closest neighbours,

France.

We may be familiar with its fine wine, haute cuisine and rural beauty.

But, there is another side of this land that may surprise.

This is The Wild Side of France.

France is more than twice the size of the UK.

But, with a similar population,

it has far greater expanses of wilderness.

Parts of this wilderness are being returned to how they once were...

..with the re-introduction of some iconic species.

This film will give an impression of France's wild side.

Once, many years ago, brown bears would have existed

across the whole of France.

Just imagine the sight of this magnificent creature

roaming across the land.

They were once a hunter's prize trophy, and by the 1930s,

these fearsome bears had all but gone from the French forests.

But, in recent years a small number of brown bears have been

reintroduced to the Pyrenees, in the south of France.

Bears need a seasonal abundance of high energy foods.

They will eat insects, berries, plants, and fish.

Naturalists would like to re-introduce more

of these top predators.

They believe it would bring a more natural balance back

to the French countryside.

Across the whole of France, there is a great variety of wildlife,

some of which may surprise.

We journey from the Pyrenees to the far east of France

to a famous mountain range... the Alps.

Well known for its ski resorts and stunning scenery,

there is also plenty of space for wildlife.

This is Ecrins National Park.

Its high mountain summits form a dramatic skyline

full of snowy glaciers.

From the top of these, water floods down

forming icy, fast flowing rivers.

Within the lower torrents is a small bird with unique abilities.

The dipper feeds on insect larvae that live in the river beds.

Despite the freezing temperatures, it dives deep into the glacial water.

Using its wings to swim, it can reach depths of two metres

and remain there for up to 15 seconds.

It will do this several times a day in order to feed its young.

Moving up to the high altitude pastures of these mountains,

there is an animal that lives below ground

in a deep system of underground burrows.

These are alpine marmots.

They come up to the surface to play, mate, and to feed.

They're social creatures, and live in small family groups.

Alpine marmots used to be widely hunted due to the belief

that their fat would ease rheumatism when rubbed on the skin.

In some areas of France, they have been successfully introduced

and are a common sight.

Marmots are highly defensive animals

and have developed a kind of collective surveillance system.

Sentinels take turns to guard their territory.

With a range of different calls they can warn others

of any potential danger.

A short single whistle sees everyone take cover.

WHISTLING

And, there's good reason...

the legendary Golden Eagle.

The eagle's eyesight is far superior to ours.

The marmots' warning system has to be good

as it is, indeed, a fearsome predator.

Eagles have existed here for hundreds of thousands of years,

far longer than any human settlers.

They have built their homes in the highest parts of the mountains.

To protect their nests, they can be fiercely territorial.

If another eagle gets too close, they will fight...

sometimes to the death.

The eagle rules the skies, but they're not alone at the summit.

Amazingly, these chamois thrive on a vertical existence.

And, there are other animals that have managed to carve out a life

in such seemingly inaccessible cliff tops.

Further south in the peaks of the Verdon Canyon,

a small creature can be found that seems to almost defy

the laws of gravity.

The Wallcreeper, known locally as the butterfly bird.

Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet share a passion

with this small bird for terrifying heights.

They are leading European climbers.

They brave the sheer and frightening cliff faces

to catch a glimpse of these delicate birds.

The butterfly bird has large feet with solid curved claws...

..which enable it to stand with perfect balance.

It gets its name because of the way it scales the cliffs

by fluttering it's colourful wings.

Its wide wings enable it to take advantage of the rising currents

and effortlessly reach great heights.

More effort is required by the climbers,

and occasionally their balance is not quite as perfect.

Ah!

Arnaud and Stephanie share the nesting choice of the butterfly bird.

They pitch their portaledge into the side of the cliff,

high above the huge emptiness below.

Sleeping at such a great height is like being suspended

momentarily out of time.

Far below the mountain tops,

it's the depths of the forest that can be a frightening place for some.

It's early spring and these two wolf cubs are just three weeks old.

It's the first time they've ventured out of their dark den

to see their surroundings.

They'll need to learn who is friend and who is foe in their forest home.

As daylight comes, there is

a whole new world above their den to explore.

BIRDSONG

Their mother returns to check on them.

The pups are cared for by all members of the pack,

but the mother is the dominant figure.

Wolves were hunted almost to extinction in France in the 1930s.

Now, as a protected species, their numbers are growing.

By winter, the small cubs will be almost fully grown

and ready to travel with the pack.

Heading further north and past the Alps,

there is another mountain chain which borders Germany -

the Vosges mountains.

Across these, geese can be seen in the autumn as they make their way

to southern climes to spend the winter.

For thousands of years, the adults have been guiding their young

along these airborne routes.

Geese have a remarkable homing instinct,

allowing them to return to the same area year after year,

even when their migration takes them halfway around the world.

The youngsters in the family group follow their parents,

taking advantage of the current and flying as if part of a platoon.

The young will stay with their parents

until the next breeding season.

They have an innate knowledge

of the direction and distance they should travel,

but not necessarily where they should be aiming for.

So, following their parents for their first migration

means they will reach their winter breeding ground.

Adult geese will use visual references,

including rivers and mountains, to guide themselves.

GEESE HONKS

They stop at night to rest in marshlands, by rivers or by lakes.

Come dawn, they'll have to wait for the fog to lift

before taking to the air again.

When the sun's rays are strong enough to create rising winds

they will set off, knowing that they can now be carried along.

En route to their winter home,

geese can cover up to 300km in just one day.

By next year, the youngsters will be able to take this journey alone.

We travel now across the country to the north of France

to a very special place not far from Paris.

Here lies one of the largest forests in the country.

Covering more than 50,000 acres,

this is the forest of Fontainebleau.

This legendary and ancient forest

has been the playground of kings for centuries.

There is a proud history of deer hunting in France.

Generations have driven hounds through this forest.

Their dogs have scoured the thick undergrowth

and rocky outcrops hundreds of times, hoping to catch a scent of prey.

The forest of Fontainebleau, full of oaks, pine, and beech trees,

is home to a huge variety of animals.

One of those is the red deer.

These two ten pointer stags are seven years old

and have been together all their lives.

It's not uncommon for stags to form partnerships,

but these particular two have become almost inseparable.

They work as allies warning each other of danger...

and sharing food...

..such as tender ivy or willow leaves.

In the hot weather they will linger in water to keep cool

and get rid of annoying midges.

It's rare for these two males to be out of each other's sight.

They know their territory very well

and have a network of trails to follow.

This comes in useful should they need to escape from hunting dogs.

There are hundreds of red deer in Fontainebleau.

They have no natural predators, so are fair game for hunters.

HOUNDS HOWLING

When they sense danger, they will flee as quickly as possible.

BARKING GETS LOUDER

Their long legs give them an advantage

as they plunge into the river water and out of sight.

BARKING GROWS FAINTER

The water also helps to dilute their scent

which dogs can trace for hours.

These two stags will spend the winter, spring,

and summer together.

But, when autumn arrives it's a different story.

Their antlers have lost their velvet texture.

Their coats have grown and darkened.

They're now full of testosterone and can only think only of one thing...

the female deer, or hinds.

They mingle with the hinds to get their scent.

In turn, their calls excite the females

and help stimulate their ovulation.

HE BELLOWS

HE RETURNS THE CALL

From this moment, there will be no more sharing between the males.

There can only be one winner.

This is a battle without compromise.

It will only end when one of the males backs down and surrenders.

The hinds can only watch and wait.

HE BELLOWS

Finally, the cry of victory.

The females gather around their triumphant hero.

The champion will stay with his harem for about a month,

fighting off any male who tries to enter his territory.

But then, when the mating season is

over, all will change once again.

Battles will be forgotten, and the two stags of Fontainebleau

will once again become close allies.

Our journey now takes us to the west of France.

Near the Atlantic Sea is the region of Poitou Charentes.

It's home to one of the largest wetlands in France,

known as the Poitevin Marshes.

Here, sea water meets fresh water.

In this unusual habitat,

the wildlife flourishes...

..and in the spring it is teeming with new life.

There's one creature here

who has to undergo an incredible transformation.

The dragonfly.

This small larva has spent more than a year under the water.

Tonight, it will undergo an amazing metamorphosis.

It appears to almost inflate its new body

so that it can break out of its old skin.

Its new feet emerge, but the dragon fly can't use them yet,

as they're still too soft.

It must wait for them to harden.

In this position it's vulnerable.

Falling now would be certain death.

Not far from the dragonfly's precarious perch,

another new birth is about to happen.

These are greater horseshoe bats,

a protected species across Europe.

The bats will often roost in old disused buildings

in the late spring and summer...

..going out after sunset to hunt and feed.

This is a maternity roost and it's time for the new babies to be born.

For this female, the contractions have begun.

The head appears first.

The mother begins by cleaning her newborn.

She licks it and frees its ears which were stuck to its head.

Once the baby is free, it begins to suckle,

and will do so for the first month of its life.

The mother wraps her wings around her precious bundle,

protecting it from any danger.

Back on the moonlit water, the dragonfly's feet

are at last hard enough.

Finally, it can leave its former body.

Now the miracle can happen.

It's soft and intricate wings unfurl gradually.

Early morning has arrived and the transformation is complete.

Four independent wings on a perfectly aerodynamic body.

The small larva that came out of the water last night has become

one of the most sophisticated flying creatures in the world.

Soon, it will find a partner and the cycle will begin again.

The Poitevin Marshes is a fascinating area.

It was once completely covered with wetland full of insects.

Around the tenth century,

monks started the process of drying up the swamps.

They built dams to stop the water rising...

..and dug canals to evacuate rainwater,

and to free up the fertile soil.

The land could then be used for agriculture.

But, some areas were left untouched.

Many species of birds come to nest here.

Within this area is a dense, hidden forest

which serves as a nursery for a colony of herons.

These fledglings are three weeks old and are constantly hungry.

SQUAWKING

One of the three youngsters stands back while the other two devour

everything their mother regurgitates.

Usually, both parents will help feed the offspring,

but here the male has disappeared,

so the mother has to work twice as hard to feed her young.

She will fly up to 30km hunting for food in the swamps,

and competition can be fierce.

Competition within the nest is also fierce.

The two strongest chicks have united against the weakest and smallest.

More frail and less active, he can only eat the leftovers.

The problem is, there aren't any.

A single parent cannot possibly feed all three.

Instinctively, they attack their little brother,

in what is a struggle for survival.

The weakest of the three will die so that the other two can live.

The laws of nature can often seem cruel.

Moving back down to the south of France,

there is an area known as the Cevennes.

A maze of mountains, deep valleys, and winding rivers.

The river water descending from the granite mountains

has carved out the distinctive contours of this stunning area.

Over time, the water has dug out canyons hundreds of meters deep.

In the cliffs of these spectacular canyons

there is an extraordinary animal.

The Griffon vulture.

Until recent years, vultures had almost completely disappeared.

Successful re-introduction programmes have dramatically increased

the number of these formidable birds.

Vultures live in colonies and they work together to scavenge for food.

Its 6:00 in the morning,

and the sun hasn't as yet penetrated the depth of the canyons.

Without the warmth of the sun, the vultures do not fly.

In spite of hunger there's no question of moving yet.

At last, the air can carry them.

Like an air squadron, dozens of vultures fill the sky.

The warm currents help them gain height.

As part of their scavenging strategy, they divide up the territory.

The large birds fly over several kilometres

scanning every inch of their land...

but never losing sight of the other vultures.

If one of them spots something, it immediately dives down.

The other vultures haven't seen it,

but they've noticed the absence of one of them.

This means there's something to eat down below.

In a matter of seconds the entire colony gather around for the feast.

The work of one benefits all.

SQUAWKING

Sharing is the price to pay for the colony's survival.

Each bird can now return to its nest

with a share of the spoils for its youngsters.

The return of these imposing birds across this region

is widely celebrated.

Vultures eat rotting carcases,

helping to prevent the spread of disease,

cleansing the wilderness.

To the north of the Cevennes mountain range is a region called the Lozere.

With its high plateaus, it is famous for its dramatic scenery...

..and numerous pretty villages.

The source of many rivers can be found here,

the most famous of which is the River Tarn.

In the spring, the Tarn is at its most powerful with exciting,

fast flowing torrents.

Within this river is a creature

which is beginning to make a comeback in France.

The otter.

With its streamline body, the otter is a skilful predator.

It has powerful, webbed feet...

..and whiskers which help it detect the slightest movement

of any underwater prey.

The otter's habitat stretches over 40km of river.

Otters are a threatened species across Europe,

but with the help of protection laws and water quality improvement,

there is evidence that its numbers are gradually recovering.

OTTER SQUEAKS

As a hunter, the otter is fearsome.

Everyone goes into hiding.

If a fish sees an otter, it's already too late.

In this river, the otter reigns supreme.

The mountains of the Lozere are home to an insect

which is unique to this area -

a black bee.

It is only thanks to intensive conservation efforts

that the pure breed of this bee can still be found here.

This flower-loving insect is a workaholic.

Its short life is dedicated to the good of the hive

and the production of honey.

Yves Elie is an expert beekeeper.

He's spent years helping to protect the bees of this region.

He follows in a longstanding tradition of this area.

To house his bees, Yves builds them traditional trunk hives,

which are similar to their natural habitat.

In these chestnut tree trunks,

thousands of workers live around their queen.

BUZZING

They feed and groom each other.

In the process they pass on pheromones,

chemical signals which reveal information

about the health of their queen and the state of the colony.

Chemical signals also help with foraging.

Honeybees use scent to locate flowers from a distance.

When a successful forager returns to the hive,

it passes the scent of the flowers to its nest mates

to help them find the same patch of flowers.

Through a series of dances, it indicates the direction,

distance, and even the quantity of pollen available.

To help conserve the black honeybee,

Yves attempts to create a new swarm every year.

It's a skilful operation.

He coaxes the queen bee into entering the trap just above the hive.

Almost immediately after she's left the hive,

a new queen bee will take over.

To avoid inbreeding and preserve the species,

Yves takes the old queen to a faraway site

where there are no other species of bee.

During its life, a bee will have to fulfil several roles...

cleaner, nursemaid, builder...

before they are finally promoted to nectar gatherer.

Then, after only 30 days, it will fall to the ground,

struck down by exhaustion.

During its short life a bee can produce several grams of honey.

Yves is hopeful that these colonies will continue

to produce honey for many years to come.

170km off the south eastern coast of France,

in the Mediterranean Sea, lies the island of Corsica.

Two thirds of this majestic island is made up of mountains,

which form a single chain along its entire length.

Famous for its high red cliffs, sandy beaches, and headlands -

this the Scandola Reserve.

GULLS CRY

Scandola is one of the oldest reserves in France,

and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As a protected site, it's home to some stunning and rare wildlife,

including osprey.

The sea conceals another, extraordinary landscape.

Jean Marie Dominici is the curator of this site,

and has spent his life protecting the wildlife here.

Teeming with life, the waters are home to a whole variety of fish.

Some quite rare.

It's a diver's paradise.

As well as fish,

the reserve is full of unusual plant life, seaweed, and coral.

Scandola Reserve is one of the Mediterranean's

most important ecosystems -

an extensive and extraordinary underwater prairie.

It's a favourite spot for many fish species to spawn their eggs.

The eggs laid here are carried by the current outside the limits

of the reserve and help nurture all the neighbouring marine sites.

There is one particular and strange-looking fish

that fascinates Jean Marie...

..the grouper.

The grouper would normally live on the sea floor,

at depths of up to 300m, but here, in this protected area,

it can be seen much closer to the surface.

Jean Marie is able to study it in close-up.

The grouper is a hermaphrodite.

It's born as a female,

but by the age of 16, it changes sex to become a male.

Males and females come together in the early summer to reproduce.

As part of their courtship,

the males change colour as a means of seduction.

The grouper almost disappeared from the Mediterranean coasts,

but, now, thanks to reserves like Scandola, it once again thrives.

Close to the Scandola Reserve

is a beach where fresh water joins the sea - the Fango delta.

In these natural ponds lives an animal

that has existed for millions of years...

..the turtle.

Although found in many different places,

the European pond turtle is under threat from water pollution

and habitat destruction, and its numbers have been declining.

Here, though, it appears to be flourishing.

As a cold blooded reptile, it needs the sun's rays for energy.

During the day it will bask on the shore or on rocks.

But this shy species will dive back into water if disturbed.

Underwater it will hunt for fish,

insects, or molluscs.

It's the mating season,

and the courtship technique of the turtle is a curious one.

The male approaches the female suddenly.

Pinning her in place as he bites her face and neck as they mate.

If not careful, the technique

can inflict serious injuries on the female.

It's a brutal affair, but necessary in order to continue the line.

Moving inland towards the centre of Corsica,

the terrain is full of dense, thorny bushes.

To survive in this prickly environment,

you need a very thick skin.

The king of this terrain is the wild boar.

Most wild boars live in close-knit groups of around 20.

They mainly consist of females and their young.

Females will normally have between four and eight babies,

and they are very protective of them.

Boars are scavengers and eat almost anything they come across,

including grass,

nuts, roots,

even small reptiles.

Older males do not usually stay in the group.

They lead a largely solitary life.

To keep cool, they will roll in mud.

Covering their body in a thick layer

also helps get rid of irritating ticks.

During the mating season, large solitary males

will travel across the countryside in search of female groups.

They're capable of covering several kilometres

of varied terrain every day.

This breeding strategy helps to maintain a strong population,

not just here on the island of Corsica,

but across the whole of France.

The wild side of France is extensive and can be extraordinary.

There is rural beauty where time seems to have stood still.

Alongside this is a rugged wilderness which can push nature to the limit.

Here, formidable birds soar above the mountains.

Wolves have made their home in the forests.

And even bears can be seen in their natural habitat.

From coastline to mountain top,

France is a country of extreme and surprising beauty,

with wildlife that never ceases to feed our imagination.