Ghost Bear Family Natural World


Ghost Bear Family

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In these dark, ancient forests lives a creature of legend.

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This is not an albino or polar bear,

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but a rare North American black bear known as a ghost bear.

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This white bear is a mother with two black cubs.

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A bear family like this can be found in only one place on Earth.

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The rainforest islands on the west coast of Canada.

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My name is Jeff Turner and I'm a Canadian wildlife film-maker.

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Alongside my own family, I'm heading into this wilderness to tell

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the story of these special bears.

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There's a lot at stake for this bear family.

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They only have a few critical months to find enough food to

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survive next winter's hibernation.

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And they're not alone.

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Hungry wolves...

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and much larger bears share their island home.

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It's going to take all the skills of this mother bear to get her

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cubs through the many challenges they'll face.

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This is their remarkable story.

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Canada's ghost bears live on the west coast, in an area

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known as the Great Bear Rainforest,

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part of the world's largest temperate rainforest.

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Here, the North Pacific Ocean

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meets the coastal mountains of British Columbia.

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This is one of the most productive landscapes on the planet,

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and the life here is sustained by an abundance of fresh water.

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The Great Bear Rainforest shelters thousands of different

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species beneath its branches...

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..but the one that we've come here to find, the most famous

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and elusive, lives deep within the forest.

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This isn't my first time I've been here looking for ghost bears.

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25 years ago, my wife Sue and I

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were the first people to ever make a film about these bears.

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We had some amazing experiences and it changed the way

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I have understood and worked around bears ever since.

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Today, we're heading to a spot

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where a ghost bear has been seen in recent years.

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Although any bear could be frightened by human presence,

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experience has taught me that if you're relaxed,

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the chances are the bears will be, too.

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And when we find her, this female is just awakening from a long sleep.

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White black bears can occur in other places,

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but it's one in a million odds, whereas here,

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because these bears have been isolated on these islands for

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so long, about one in ten black bears are white.

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This year, she's come out of the den with two little cubs

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that, unlike her, are black.

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The genes that create white fur are not always expressed,

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and a ghost bear mother is as likely to give birth to black cubs

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as she is to white ones.

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Getting both her cubs through their first year will be a challenge.

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The main risk to cubs comes from other bears and wolves,

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so when they're small, she'll keep them back here in the forest.

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It's safer here because there's relatively little to eat,

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and most animals are out on the coast,

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where one of the year's greatest feasts is getting underway.

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Hundreds of kilometres of shoreline are covered with sticky, white eggs.

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Creatures from around the region are here to take advantage

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of the abundant food.

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This hungry male bear could easily kill the cubs.

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But right now, he seems pretty content

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with just licking up the rich eggs.

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Wolves are also a threat to the cubs, and they're here, too.

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At this time of year, they'll spend hours eating the rich eggs

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while trying not to ingest too much of the seaweed underneath.

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All these eggs come from Pacific herring

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that have come up from deep water to spawn.

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Male herring broadcast their sperm into the water,

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turning it milky white.

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This attracts females to the area,

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who deposit their sticky eggs onto the vegetation.

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Each female can lay up to 40,000 eggs.

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There's a pheromone in the sperm that stimulates both the males

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and females into a frenzy of spawning activity.

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Herring are the most abundant fish on the coast,

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providing rich pickings for any animal that can take advantage.

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Like these Steller sea lions.

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The big males can eat up to 70kg in a day.

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DRAMATIC MUSIC

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The herring spawn is one of the most important events of the year...

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..but our white bear mother has not been able to take

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advantage of this spring feast.

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For now, she's continuing to keep her cubs hidden away.

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They do seem nervous,

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but it's not because there are wolves or other bears around.

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We are the first people that these cubs have ever seen...

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..and even though these cubs seem shy,

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we know what's possible in a relationship

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between humans and bears.

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25 years ago, we lived side-by-side with the bears of the

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Great Bear Rainforest, when our daughter Chelsea was just a baby.

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SHE BABBLES

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We quickly came to realise that these bears had never

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encountered people before.

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Over time, we were able to gain their trust,

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so that they were comfortable allowing us

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close enough to get a special view of their world.

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Growing up with bears as her neighbours became normal to Chelsea.

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-CHELSEA:

-I don't remember being here as a child,

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but the experience must have rubbed off on me,

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because today, I feel instinctively comfortable around bears.

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It's really special to be able to share this again with my dad,

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only this time, I know how lucky I am to have such close,

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personal encounters with bears.

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Looking at her, this mother bear seems thin.

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She needs to build herself up

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if she's going to get her cubs through their first summer.

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Black bear mothers produce milk that is 30% fat,

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some of the richest milk of any land animal in the world.

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And she's had to do this with only plants to eat.

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Since coming out of the den, she's been slowly losing weight.

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She needs high-protein food,

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but she'll have to wait until the salmon arrive.

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Waiting in the forest does offer her

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and her cubs continued sanctuary, but it must be hard to stay back

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from the coast, where the pickings are much richer.

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Other inhabitants of these islands can take full advantage

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of what this place has to offer.

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The Great Bear Rainforest lies adjacent to the

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North Pacific Ocean, one of the richest in the world.

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The wolves have readily adapted to life in this marine environment.

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They are more sea wolves than timber wolves.

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They are genetically distinct from their cousins on the mainland

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and are incredible swimmers.

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They've been seen travelling up to 12km between islands.

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SOMBRE MUSIC

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Most of the food these wolves eat comes from the sea,

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but they also eat bears.

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A wolf pack kills at least one or two bears a year

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in the Great Bear Rainforest.

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There's a good reason the mother bear prefers the forest,

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even though there's less to eat.

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But with summer's imminent arrival,

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she shouldn't have to wait much longer for a decent meal.

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Millions of salmon are migrating from their distant offshore

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feeding grounds, returning to the rivers where they were born,

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to spawn and then die.

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Many will swim hundreds of kilometres inland,

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deep into the heart of the forest.

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And for some, it will mean they have to travel underground.

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Underlying huge parts of the coast is a type of bedrock that is

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so porous and permeable that water flowing on the surface

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will suddenly disappear into a hole.

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The water flows underground, often for kilometres,

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before re-emerging again, sometimes in a completely different valley.

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In these regions, known as karst landscapes,

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salmon may have to travel through many of these underground

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river systems to reach their spawning grounds.

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The water that flows through this special bedrock becomes very

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alkaline and carries nutrients leached from the rocks.

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Ideal for salmon.

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This salmon creek is fairly small, but it's full of fish.

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This could be a great spot to set up and wait for the mother bear...

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..even though there are other bears here already.

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This huge male is one of the biggest black bears I've ever seen.

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He must be the dominant bear on the creek,

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and could be a real problem for a mother bear with cubs.

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There is at least a dozen bears that use this creek,

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so I'm not sure our mother will make an appearance.

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The salmon only have a few weeks to spawn before they die,

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but many won't get the chance.

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Those white paws definitely belong to a ghost bear...

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..and I'm relieved to see that it's the mother bear.

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She has been lured from the forest by the chance of a good meal.

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This will be the first salmon she's tasted in almost a year.

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Hopefully, the first of many.

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But she's left her cubs behind in the forest.

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Although they'll be alone, with all the other bears on the creek,

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it's probably the right call.

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There are so many salmon here,

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it's almost like she doesn't know where to start.

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PLAYFUL MUSIC

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And it looks like she's not going to settle for just one.

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I've never seen a bear with one salmon in its mouth

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trying to catch another.

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She's either really experienced, or very hungry.

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Right now, it's still too risky to bring the cubs to the salmon...

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..instead it looks like she's taking the salmon to the cubs.

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It didn't take me long to learn that the mother bear

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liked to eat her salmon beneath a particular tree

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that the cubs were often in.

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So I was able to set up a remote camera right there

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to observe what the cubs thought of their first salmon.

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One cub was quick to the dinner table,

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but the other was definitely a little more cautious.

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And he seemed far more curious about my camera,

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than about the fresh salmon his mother brought him to eat.

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While the mother bear seems

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completely unconcerned by my camera,

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she has other worries.

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Keeping the cubs in the forest

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will really limit her fishing-time.

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Soon she is going to have to risk bringing them to the creek.

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And she doesn't wait long.

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With no other bears around,

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she makes the move.

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This is a big moment in the cubs' lives.

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She's got to be careful, though,

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another bear could turn up at any moment.

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The cubs are a bit nervous being out in the creek,

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and they know they have to stick close to her wherever she goes.

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While there are still lots of salmon around,

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the mother bear can be selective with what she eats.

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She takes a bite of this salmon...

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and then drops it.

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She can probably tell from the taste it's a male.

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Bears need to target the richest, most nutritious food source.

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What she really wants to find are female salmon...

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..and she'll go out of her way to catch one.

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Female salmon are loaded

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with thousands of brightly coloured, nutrient-rich eggs.

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This is the best part of the salmon,

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high in calories and fat...

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and she doesn't want to leave any behind.

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The cubs, though, still need to learn

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which are the best parts to eat.

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Though the cubs are still nursing,

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they need these protein-rich salmon as much as their mum does.

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The whole family has to put on as much weight as possible

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before winter hibernation.

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The mother bear is always alert to potential dangers to her cubs.

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Surprisingly, it's another ghost bear.

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This one looks like a large male.

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The cubs know that when another bear is around,

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they have to get out of there.

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They retreat to the safety of the trees.

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The mother bear is much smaller than him,

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but she's still going right after him.

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I'm not sure that's such a good idea -

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he could certainly do some damage to her.

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And he doesn't seem much deterred by her approach.

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That's a risky move on her part.

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Any time two bears physically interact like that,

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there's a good chance one of them could be hurt.

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They're very powerful animals.

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I don't know her character well enough yet to decide

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if she's foolhardy or brave.

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Only time will tell.

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But her cubs knew what to do in this situation -

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they knew that their best defence was to get up as high into a tree,

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as quickly as possible.

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Bear cubs always seem so at ease in these big trees,

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so far off the ground.

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They'll use their teeth as well as their claws

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to hang on and move around.

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The mother bear seems to have won the day,

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but these encounters with other bears will be stressful for her.

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She wisely decides to take her cubs back into the safety of forest.

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With the arrival of the salmon,

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the mother bear may also have to worry about the resident wolf packs.

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Wolves on this coast are known to catch salmon in these streams.

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It's lucky for her the ocean provides such a bounty

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that the wolves seem content to spend their time

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patrolling the shoreline.

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And they find a dead sea lion that has washed up onto shore.

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The whiter wolf is the old grandmother of the pack.

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Her teeth aren't strong enough

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to chew through the tough, rubbery hide,

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as this younger wolf is starting to do.

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For now, the old wolf must scavenge the beach for smaller prey.

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THEY HOWL

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Wolves use howls to communicate.

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When they find food they alert the other pack members to the discovery.

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The abundance of food from the ocean means that these sea wolves

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can survive on just 60 square kilometres,

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whereas wolves inland can range well over 1,000.

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This is a real bonanza for them -

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many kilos of fat-rich meat -

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and it will feed the pack for a week or more.

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Eventually, even the old grandmother wolf gets her chance to feed.

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The younger pack members have peeled back the hide

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and the heat from the sun has softened the carcass

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so she is able to eat her fill.

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While the summer sun has helped this old wolf get a meal,

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it brings tougher times for some of the other residents

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of the Great Bear Rainforest.

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Water levels on the creek are dropping,

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and it's getting harder for the bears to catch salmon.

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The salmon can't make it up and over the falls now...

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..so they hole up in the remaining deepwater pools.

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The bears keep trying...

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but salmon are very deep difficult to catch in deep water.

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Chelsea and I are going to set up our underwater camera

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in one of the pools to get a salmon's-eye view.

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We wanted to test a theory about why ghost bears are so prevalent here.

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We want to find out if white bears catch more fish than black ones.

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There's new research that indicates they can catch 30% more salmon

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during the day than black bears,

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because their white fur

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is less visible against the sky.

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This would give them a distinct survival advantage.

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Salmon have excellent vision - surprisingly similar to humans.

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We need to place the camera

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so that it's just the right spot to see the bears against the sky.

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My dad asks me to do my best bear imitation!

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Once we are happy with the camera replacement,

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we just have to wait.

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It's not long before a black bear arrives.

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From the salmon's perspective,

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he seems to blend in very well against the trees.

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He even makes a lucky catch.

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On this narrow creek, the forest obscures most of the sky above...

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..then I see our mother bear approaching.

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She seems to stand out even more against the trees

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than the black bear.

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But she still makes a successful catch.

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Later we pointed the camera more towards the sky

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and she did seem better camouflaged.

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It wasn't a very scientific test,

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but I think a bear's fishing ability

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is as much to do with its age and experience,

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as it does with its fur-colour.

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The more time we get to spend around this bear,

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the more we are learning about her skills.

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So far, she's managed to catch lots of fish and keep her cubs safe.

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But the busiest and most important part of the salmon season

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is still to come.

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While the mother bear lives on these islands year-round,

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there are other creatures that only come for a visit.

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These are North Pacific humpback whales...

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..and 25 years ago you rarely saw them on this coast.

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Today, there are about 2,000 that spend the summer on BC's coast.

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The humpbacks feed by lunging sideways into the water...

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..gulping down millions of tiny krill in massive mouthfuls.

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The humpbacks share their summer feeding grounds

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with Steller sea lions.

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GURGLING, BARKING GROWLS

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The juvenile sea lions

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are very curious about their giant neighbours.

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Filming at sea level, it wasn't clear exactly what was going on.

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Were the sea lions trying to feed around whales,

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or were they trying to play with them?

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We just couldn't tell.

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By using our small remote-control aerial camera,

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my son Logan was able to capture

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a bird's-eye view.

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With the footage from above, we could see that the sea lions

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were taking turns swimming closer and closer to the humpbacks -

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like dare-devilish teenagers.

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And we could see now that the humpbacks were clearly not happy

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with the sea lions' antics.

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This tail side-swiping is a sign of aggression in whales.

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For the sea lions, it's a dangerous game -

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a smack from a humpback's tail would be deadly.

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The humpbacks slap the water with their pectoral fins and tails

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in an effort to drive off the pesky sea lions.

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While the humpbacks have made a remarkable recovery,

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on this part of the coast, their future is far from secure.

0:30:370:30:40

There are plans to ship oil and gas in massive tankers

0:30:440:30:48

right through the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest.

0:30:480:30:51

Humpbacks have no biosonar capacities

0:30:530:30:56

and are therefore very vulnerable to collisions with large ships.

0:30:560:30:59

The traffic in these waters

0:31:030:31:04

is expected to climb more than 100-fold

0:31:040:31:08

if the planned pipelines and tanker depots get built.

0:31:080:31:11

It's not just whales that may be impacted...

0:31:140:31:17

..these rich, coastal waters provide foraging opportunities

0:31:180:31:22

for lots of other wildlife.

0:31:220:31:23

Sea birds like these gulls, loons and guillemots

0:31:240:31:27

are all here to take advantage of the schools of young herring

0:31:270:31:31

living in these inland waters.

0:31:310:31:33

The guillemots are expert underwater hunters.

0:31:360:31:39

They can easily dive up to 100 metres.

0:31:400:31:44

Herring will avoid swimming through bubbles.

0:31:480:31:51

The guillemots take advantage of this to corral the herring

0:31:510:31:55

and drive them up to the water's surface.

0:31:550:31:57

The trails of bubbles are air trapped in the guillemots' feathers

0:32:010:32:05

and squeezed out by the water pressure as they dive.

0:32:050:32:08

The guillemots remain underwater for several minutes as they herd

0:32:110:32:15

the frenzied herring into bigger and bigger bait balls.

0:32:150:32:18

Forming a bait ball is the herrings' last-ditch defence.

0:32:230:32:27

With the guillemots pushing them up from below,

0:32:300:32:33

the herring are driven to the surface

0:32:330:32:35

where the gulls have been waiting to attack.

0:32:350:32:38

Many dive into the bait ball to try and make a catch.

0:32:440:32:47

But some try a different technique...

0:32:530:32:55

Piracy!

0:32:580:32:59

These feeding frenzies don't last long, though,

0:33:140:33:18

the herring eventually escape diving deep out of reach

0:33:180:33:22

of these surface predators.

0:33:220:33:24

Back on the salmon creek,

0:33:270:33:29

the water is low and the mother bear is spending more time

0:33:290:33:33

out here with her cubs scavenging salmon carcasses.

0:33:330:33:37

Fishing is tough right now.

0:33:380:33:39

What's nice to see is how increasingly tolerant

0:33:460:33:50

she's becoming of us.

0:33:500:33:52

She just goes about her day like we're not even here.

0:33:520:33:54

This is because the people she has met before

0:34:020:34:05

have treated her well.

0:34:050:34:07

We're collaborating with local bear guide

0:34:070:34:10

Marvin Robinson, a member of the Gitga'at First Nation.

0:34:100:34:14

He spent a lot of time

0:34:170:34:19

among the white bears in his traditional territory,

0:34:190:34:22

protecting them and guiding photographers and tourists

0:34:220:34:25

to see them.

0:34:250:34:26

He has treated the bears with respect and tolerance.

0:34:300:34:33

This has really helped us establish a relationship

0:34:390:34:42

with this mother bear.

0:34:420:34:43

She is so comfortable in our presence -

0:34:440:34:47

she'll even take a nap right in front of us.

0:34:470:34:50

In fact, she's looking so relaxed it's actually a little worrying.

0:34:530:34:58

While she doesn't need to be concerned with us,

0:34:580:35:01

she still does need to watch out for other bears.

0:35:010:35:04

At least the cubs are up in a tree.

0:35:060:35:08

If she wants to avoid a close encounter with another bear,

0:35:110:35:14

she needs to literally sleep with one eye open.

0:35:140:35:17

And this is what I was worried about.

0:35:300:35:33

This big male doesn't know the mother bear

0:35:380:35:40

is asleep on the other side of the tree.

0:35:400:35:42

His sudden appearance startles her.

0:35:510:35:53

LOUD GROWLING

0:35:530:35:56

She has no idea of his intentions.

0:35:560:35:58

LOW GROWLING

0:36:050:36:07

She is very upset by how close he got

0:36:110:36:14

and reacts with real aggression.

0:36:140:36:16

GROWLING CONTINUES

0:36:260:36:29

This is just the sort of encounter

0:36:380:36:40

that most mother bears try to avoid.

0:36:400:36:43

It was a dangerous situation for her to get yourself into.

0:36:480:36:52

She is lucky the big male didn't fight back.

0:36:560:36:59

He's so much bigger than her

0:36:590:37:01

that one swipe of his paw could've injured or even killed her.

0:37:010:37:05

For bears at this time of year,

0:37:100:37:12

the stakes are high.

0:37:120:37:14

And the next morning brings a stark reminder of just how high.

0:37:140:37:18

It's a little male black bear.

0:37:210:37:23

He was most likely killed in a fight with another bear -

0:37:240:37:28

possibly the big male.

0:37:280:37:29

Competition for salmon can be fierce and, occasionally, fatal.

0:37:320:37:36

The presence of this dead bear

0:37:410:37:43

appears to have really upset the mother.

0:37:430:37:45

She needs the salmon,

0:37:470:37:48

but the risk to her cubs is too high to stay out on the creek right now.

0:37:480:37:52

Luckily, this stressful situation is about to change.

0:37:560:37:59

The autumn rains finally arrive after a long, dry summer.

0:38:040:38:08

This place is called the Great Bear Rainforest for a reason -

0:38:110:38:15

more than three metres of rain falls on these forests every year.

0:38:150:38:19

It is one of the wettest places in the northern hemisphere.

0:38:210:38:24

This huge influx of fresh water

0:38:310:38:33

cascades off the rocky mountain slopes

0:38:330:38:36

filling the streams and creating surging waterfalls.

0:38:360:38:40

Rising water levels

0:38:510:38:53

mean that the salmon that have been trapped in shallow water,

0:38:530:38:55

can now continue their migration upstream.

0:38:550:38:58

But the higher water means that it can sometimes take 24 hours

0:39:020:39:06

and dozens of attempts

0:39:060:39:08

for them to leap a single waterfall.

0:39:080:39:10

The salmons' efforts are made even more challenging

0:39:210:39:24

by the presence of hungry black bears.

0:39:240:39:26

These two bears are very skinny.

0:39:340:39:36

They've both been drawn to the falls

0:39:360:39:38

in a desperate attempt to catch one of the leaping salmon.

0:39:380:39:42

But they have to be in exactly the right position,

0:39:490:39:52

just a little bit off the mark

0:39:520:39:54

and they won't catch a thing.

0:39:540:39:56

This bear knows he needs a better position to fish,

0:39:580:40:02

but there is a real danger -

0:40:020:40:03

a fall into this surging water could be fatal.

0:40:030:40:07

Not only does he have to stand in this fast water,

0:40:380:40:40

but he has to be secure enough to reach for leaping fish.

0:40:400:40:44

The other bear needs to get closer,

0:41:060:41:08

but there's no place for him to stand.

0:41:080:41:11

They are so close...

0:41:220:41:24

And yet, just out of reach.

0:41:240:41:25

The bear on the other side of the fall looks on in vain...

0:41:330:41:36

He is just too high above the water.

0:41:360:41:38

But this bear's precarious position finally pays off.

0:41:400:41:44

With water levels up on the creek,

0:41:570:41:59

the salmon are able to push further upstream

0:41:590:42:02

and the bears have more opportunities to catch them.

0:42:020:42:06

With higher water, the mother bear has moved to the falls

0:42:110:42:14

where the salmon are most active.

0:42:140:42:17

But the big male has taken over the best fishing spot.

0:42:170:42:20

She needs to keep herself safe,

0:42:230:42:25

but she also needs access to salmon.

0:42:250:42:28

She cautiously moves closer to the big male.

0:42:310:42:33

She's probably still a little unsure of him

0:42:360:42:38

after their last encounter.

0:42:380:42:40

There's lots of salmon swimming through the falls now,

0:42:450:42:48

but with big male so close by,

0:42:480:42:50

she can't really move around as freely as she needs to.

0:42:500:42:54

The big male has control of the best fishing site.

0:43:180:43:22

But due to the closeness of the mother bear,

0:43:220:43:24

he also seems to be losing some of his focus.

0:43:240:43:27

MALE BEAR GROWLS

0:43:270:43:30

Then he manages to grab another salmon.

0:43:310:43:34

However, this one is a male, and he lets it go.

0:43:360:43:39

The mother bear is less fussy right now,

0:43:410:43:43

but she's unable to take advantage of the opportunity.

0:43:430:43:46

Neither bear is very happy with the presence of the other.

0:43:480:43:51

The mother bear decides to move in

0:43:550:43:57

and take advantage of the scraps the big guy's left behind.

0:43:570:44:00

The big male seems annoyed by her presence so close behind him.

0:44:100:44:13

Something has to give.

0:44:180:44:20

At this rate, neither bear is going to be successful.

0:44:200:44:23

The mother is getting more confident...

0:44:310:44:35

growling at the big male,

0:44:350:44:37

letting him know she wants him out of there.

0:44:370:44:40

Finally, she builds up the nerve to storm his position.

0:44:430:44:46

GROWLING

0:44:480:44:50

LOW, SUSTAINED GROWLING

0:44:550:44:58

Even though she's much smaller than him, she's not backing down.

0:45:020:45:06

She wants access to the salmon more than he does.

0:45:060:45:09

The big male tries to intimidate her with his much larger size...

0:45:140:45:17

..but she holds her nerve - refusing to leave.

0:45:200:45:23

Finally, the big male's had enough,

0:45:290:45:31

and moves on to other fishing grounds.

0:45:310:45:34

Now the mother bear has the falls all to herself.

0:45:400:45:43

This has been a hard-won salmon,

0:45:490:45:50

but I think there's going to be lots more where this came from now.

0:45:500:45:54

Watching her these past months

0:45:570:45:59

I've really been impressed by how well she's done

0:45:590:46:02

for herself and her family.

0:46:020:46:04

She's a committed mother, who will do what it takes

0:46:040:46:07

to provide for her cubs and keep them safe.

0:46:070:46:10

As winter approaches, they should be in good shape for hibernation.

0:46:110:46:15

But she still had one more surprise in store for me.

0:46:200:46:23

On the very last day of filming,

0:46:260:46:28

she allows me to get the camera close enough to her cubs

0:46:280:46:32

to see the world through the eyes of an individual bear.

0:46:320:46:35

25 years ago, when Sue and I first came here,

0:46:400:46:43

we had never before been in a place where the wildlife allowed us

0:46:430:46:47

to get so immersed in their world.

0:46:470:46:49

It's been such a privilege to be able to come back here

0:46:590:47:03

all these years later

0:47:030:47:04

and have the opportunity to see even closer into the world of bears.

0:47:040:47:08

It's a testament to just how special the Great Bear Rainforest is -

0:47:130:47:18

this temperate rainforest right next to

0:47:180:47:20

the cold, rich North Pacific Ocean

0:47:200:47:22

combine to make this a unique environment full of life.

0:47:220:47:27

And nowhere else on the planet

0:47:320:47:34

can you find a family of bears like this.

0:47:340:47:37

With such a great role model to follow,

0:47:410:47:44

I don't think these cubs will have any trouble

0:47:440:47:47

eventually making their own way on these islands they call home.

0:47:470:47:51

As a wildlife film-maker

0:48:000:48:02

I've had the opportunity to film all around the world,

0:48:020:48:05

but coming back here to the Great Bear Rainforest with my family

0:48:050:48:09

reminds me again what a unique and extraordinary place this is.

0:48:090:48:14

There's nowhere like it in the world

0:48:160:48:18

and it needs to be celebrated and protected.

0:48:180:48:21

There is such richness and diversity everywhere you look,

0:48:230:48:27

but during our filming we discovered

0:48:270:48:29

that it still had some amazing secrets to reveal.

0:48:290:48:32

The Great Bear Rainforest on the west coast of Canada,

0:48:460:48:49

is a huge, largely intact, wilderness

0:48:490:48:52

74,000 square kilometres in size.

0:48:520:48:55

British Columbia contains one fourth

0:48:570:48:59

of all the temperate rainforests left on Earth.

0:48:590:49:02

It's a forested archipelago of thousands of islands,

0:49:030:49:06

fjords and inlets.

0:49:060:49:08

What makes this place so unique

0:49:080:49:10

is the fact that it's adjacent to the rich North Pacific Ocean.

0:49:100:49:14

The sea here supports an abundance of life.

0:49:170:49:20

Harbour seals spend all year here feeding.

0:49:200:49:23

Surf scoters...

0:49:270:49:29

..and the aptly named goldeneye ducks,

0:49:300:49:33

travel here to feed on the abundant fish.

0:49:330:49:36

During our past visits

0:49:430:49:45

we've always focused our filming efforts on the land,

0:49:450:49:47

but there's an incredibly rich world beneath the surface.

0:49:470:49:51

Kelp thrive in these cold fast-moving waters.

0:49:530:49:56

It's one of the fastest-growing plants on Earth

0:49:560:50:00

and can reach up to 30 metres in height.

0:50:000:50:02

This is the first time we've taken our cameras underwater

0:50:040:50:07

to film the kelp forests.

0:50:070:50:09

And for the seals that lived here,

0:50:110:50:13

they were just as curious of our cameras as we were of them.

0:50:130:50:17

Each kelp strand provides a habitat for up to 200 species

0:50:290:50:33

and tens of thousands of individual creatures.

0:50:330:50:36

When we first filmed here 25 years ago,

0:50:370:50:39

there were no sea otters in this part of the central coast.

0:50:390:50:43

They were hunted to extinction

0:50:430:50:45

all along British Columbia's coast.

0:50:450:50:48

A small number were reintroduced about 40 years ago

0:50:480:50:50

and the richness of this environment

0:50:500:50:52

has allowed the population to grow to more than 5,000 today.

0:50:520:50:56

They are re-colonising areas of the coast

0:50:580:51:00

that have not had sea otters for 100 years.

0:51:000:51:03

Another success story on this coast

0:51:030:51:06

has been the arrival of the Pacific white-sided dolphin.

0:51:060:51:08

These agile hunters can reach speeds of up to 40km an hour.

0:51:100:51:14

25 years ago, they were virtually non-existent here.

0:51:160:51:20

Now, about 20,000 are making these inshore waters their home.

0:51:200:51:25

The productivity of life beneath the sea,

0:51:270:51:29

is directly linked to that of the forest above.

0:51:290:51:32

Along the boundary between the sea and the forest,

0:51:390:51:42

sandhill cranes arrive to spend the summer.

0:51:420:51:45

CROAKING CALLS

0:51:460:51:49

Pairs return from California every year to breed

0:51:490:51:53

and raise their young in this rich forest environment.

0:51:530:51:56

Their distinctive resonant cry can carry up to 5km.

0:51:560:52:00

These temperate forests harbour a greater abundance of life

0:52:040:52:07

than any other type of forest on earth.

0:52:070:52:10

A big part of the reason for this

0:52:180:52:20

is due to what's happening beneath the surface.

0:52:200:52:23

It has to do with the way water flows through,

0:52:250:52:28

and even beneath, this forest.

0:52:280:52:30

Many of the trees grow on the permeable karst bedrock.

0:52:380:52:42

Here the land is so soft and fractured,

0:52:420:52:44

that water flowing on the surface

0:52:440:52:46

can suddenly disappear through a hole in the ground.

0:52:460:52:49

Down here there are many kilometres of underground tunnels and chambers

0:52:510:52:55

that the water flows through.

0:52:550:52:57

It's this water that's the key to the forest's success.

0:53:030:53:07

Wherever this soluble karst bedrock occurs,

0:53:080:53:11

the trees grow to incredible heights.

0:53:110:53:14

The soil that develops on top of this bedrock is well-drained,

0:53:190:53:23

so the tree roots don't get waterlogged.

0:53:230:53:25

If the soil was removed you could see

0:53:270:53:29

the convoluted and cracked surface of the bedrock

0:53:290:53:33

that the rainwater flows through.

0:53:330:53:34

This type of carbonate bedrock is rich in nutrients.

0:53:370:53:40

The eroding rainwater carries these nutrients

0:53:410:53:44

throughout the karst system feeding the trees.

0:53:440:53:48

And this makes them highly prized by timber companies.

0:53:500:53:53

Many of them, especially on Vancouver Island,

0:54:000:54:03

have already been logged.

0:54:030:54:04

When the trees are cut down,

0:54:110:54:13

the thin topsoil is vulnerable.

0:54:130:54:15

If a fire occurs,

0:54:170:54:18

this soil can be washed away exposing the bare karst rock below.

0:54:180:54:21

It could take hundreds of years before a site recovers.

0:54:230:54:26

I was keen to document life beneath these forests.

0:54:410:54:43

It's an important part of the salmons' story.

0:54:430:54:46

Filming in these underground rivers

0:54:480:54:50

was something that had never been attempted before,

0:54:500:54:53

and I knew I needed help to make it happen.

0:54:530:54:55

Whoa!

0:55:020:55:04

So, let's put it down there, try to run it through the tunnel.

0:55:040:55:07

If it doesn't fit, we'll leave it back on the left, then assemble it

0:55:070:55:10

and we can just form a little line in.

0:55:100:55:12

Travelling light today.

0:55:140:55:16

'The first challenge was getting hundreds of kilograms

0:55:170:55:20

'of diving and underwater camera gear into the caves.'

0:55:200:55:23

Put it just below you, and then we'll stage everything down to here.

0:55:230:55:26

All this for one shot!

0:55:320:55:33

THEY LAUGH

0:55:330:55:36

'This was no place for anyone who might suffer with claustrophobia!'

0:55:360:55:39

Go ahead of me there.

0:55:390:55:41

That's a bit of a squish, isn't it?

0:55:440:55:46

-It's quite exciting.

-OK.

-Yeah.

0:55:460:55:48

'This was a first for all of us.

0:55:500:55:51

'We were exploring a hidden world.'

0:55:510:55:54

It's an amazing experience being under here.

0:55:540:55:57

These formations you just had no idea existed here.

0:55:570:56:00

'Once we got through the narrow part of the cave,

0:56:000:56:03

'it opened up into larger chambers.'

0:56:030:56:05

During the wet season, these tunnels can fill with water.

0:56:080:56:12

But eventually, we arrived at this underground lake,

0:56:130:56:16

where we heard the salmon had been seen in the past.

0:56:160:56:19

This is one of the deepest freshwater cave dives in Canada.

0:56:210:56:25

The water is connected to the river that flows above ground,

0:56:270:56:30

so fish like this sculpin can move in and out of the caves.

0:56:300:56:34

For the dive team, this is a cause for concern.

0:56:350:56:38

I heard that the current can get up to eight knots

0:56:380:56:41

in certain places here. That's way too strong to swim against.

0:56:410:56:44

It looks OK, Alex?

0:56:480:56:50

I think it looks good.

0:56:500:56:53

'Once the guys decided the current was safe, they were in the water,

0:56:530:56:56

and their camera gear was lighting up this dark underwater world.

0:56:560:56:59

It didn't take long until the salmon showed up,

0:57:030:57:06

drawn to the sudden appearance of light.

0:57:060:57:08

This is the first time that salmon have been filmed

0:57:100:57:13

in these underground karst caves.

0:57:130:57:15

While the salmon may have to navigate these cave systems,

0:57:200:57:23

the water here offers them something extra.

0:57:230:57:27

Thanks to the alkaline karst bedrock,

0:57:270:57:29

the water here is particularly rich in nutrients and aquatic insects

0:57:290:57:33

offering rich pickings to hungry salmon.

0:57:330:57:35

Research in Alaska shows that salmon living in karst streams

0:57:380:57:41

tend to be larger and more numerous than in other rivers.

0:57:410:57:45

It's become clear to me that the karst landscapes

0:57:480:57:51

of the Great Bear Rainforest

0:57:510:57:53

are vitally important to the animals that make their home here.

0:57:530:57:56

But it's also a fragile landscape.

0:57:580:58:00

Without stronger protection for these karst regions,

0:58:000:58:03

we may lose a key component

0:58:030:58:05

of what makes the Great Bear Rainforest

0:58:050:58:08

such a rich and diverse wilderness.

0:58:080:58:10

And home to some very special wildlife.

0:58:130:58:15

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