Frozen Seas The Blue Planet


Frozen Seas

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The frozen seas are worlds unto themselves.

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Beneath their ceiling of ice,

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they have an eerie stillness, cut off from the storms that rage above.

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In the winter, the feeble slanting rays of the sun bring little warmth

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and the temperature seldom rises above minus 50 degrees centigrade.

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For much of the year, it is dark and cripplingly cold.

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Yet there is life here at both ends of the earth -

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the Arctic and the Antarctic.

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For most animals, whether they live in or out of water,

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the winters, when much of the sea is frozen,

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bring the greatest challenge.

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The northern hemisphere.

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It's February, and as the Earth tilts on its axis,

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the sun's rays creep slowly northwards

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and the Arctic emerges from its harsh winter.

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The Arctic is a frozen ocean surrounded by continents

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and when the surface of the sea freezes from shore to shore,

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land predators walk out onto it to hunt.

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It's early March and the sea is still covered with ice.

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But there are patches of open water - polynyas - that never freeze over.

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Here, where tidal currents are squeezed between islands,

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the water movement is so strong that ice cannot form.

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Walruses spend the winter in polynyas.

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Here, they have permanent access to the air,

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but they can also retreat to the sea to shelter, to hunt.

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Other sea mammals overwinter in the polynyas as well.

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In this one, a young bowhead whale.

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Here, the current is really fast and the shifting ice is dangerous.

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This whale became trapped when ice encircled it last autumn.

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There is no food here, but a whale must breathe

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and the only place that it can do so, for miles around,

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is in this tiny hole.

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It's living entirely on its reserves of fat,

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but now they are dangerously low.

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It will be some months yet before it can escape.

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Elsewhere, other whales have also been trapped.

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These are belugas. Their tiny hole in the ice has been kept open,

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not by currents, but by the belugas' continuous movements

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as they rise to breathe.

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Open water is now some 20 miles away.

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It will be two months yet before the ice melts.

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The belugas are extremely thin and most of them are horribly scarred.

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But their wounds were not inflicted by the ice.

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A whale would be a huge prize for any meat-eating hunter

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and these belugas, trapped by the ice,

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are within reach of polar bears.

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Aware of the danger, the belugas stay submerged as long as they can.

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But they can only hold their breath for about 20 minutes.

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Catching a four-metre long whale that weighs one ton is no easy task,

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even if that whale is weakened by starvation.

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But a beluga is well worth waiting for.

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Day by day, as the hole gets bigger,

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it becomes increasingly difficult for the bear to land a whale.

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Keeping its fur in good condition and free from salt

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is important for warmth, and the bear uses snow like blotting paper.

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These belugas have been attacked by many bears over the last six months

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and some have been caught.

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It may have taken a long time and a lot of patience,

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but a catch, when it's made, brings abundant rewards

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of energy-rich blubber.

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Gulls rely on bear-kills at this time of the year

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and the colour of blood staining the ice

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attracts them from a long way away.

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The remaining belugas still have a long wait

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before they are released from their prison and the threat of slaughter.

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In late March and into April,

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female bears emerge from winter dens with their cubs.

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The mother has not eaten for at least five months.

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She's hungry. Very hungry.

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This is a crucial time for the cub.

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By watching its mother hunt and copying her actions,

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it begins to acquire the rudiments of its own hunting skills.

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Play is also important

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for developing muscles and co-ordination.

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As the days go by,

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the sun rises higher and remains above the horizon.

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The female bear continues to hunt

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until her cub is too tired and can't keep up.

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She's smelt something.

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The pup escapes through a hole in its lair

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that leads to the sea below.

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Only one in 20 hunts is successful.

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The mother must find a seal pup soon

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if her cub is not to starve to death.

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As spring turns into summer,

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the sun's heat begins to melt the sea ice.

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Now the ocean is accessible and the Arctic's summer visitors return.

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Migrating birds arrive from the south to nest and feed on sea food

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that is now within their reach.

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Brunnich's guillemots are the northern equivalent of penguins.

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But they have the power of flight to reach cliff ledges

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where their nests will be safe from predatory bears and foxes.

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Nonetheless, they are as at home in the water as they are in the air.

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They dive down to a depth of 50 metres or more to catch fish.

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In June, the ice begins to fracture.

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Cracks form useful corridors of open water for air-breathing animals.

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Belugas migrating to their feeding grounds

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can penetrate the ice-covered seas to reach areas

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where their preferred food - arctic cod - has spent the winter.

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Males regularly dive to about 500 metres to find fish.

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The females and young, which have smaller lungs, only go to about 350.

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In late June and July, narwhals arrive.

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The females, who usually lack tusks, come first with their new calves.

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The males follow a little later.

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They also move up the leads in search of fresh feeding grounds.

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Bowheads. Up to 18 metres long and weighing 100 tonnes.

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These are the only large whales that stay in the Arctic all year round.

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They're not after fish. They're seeking smaller prey.

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Despite having the largest mouths - the size of a small garage -

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they eat tiny crustaceans - copepods,

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straining them from the water with the four-metre strips of baleen

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that hang from their upper jaws.

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In the summer, they store enough energy to last them until winter

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when food will be less abundant.

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As the ice melts away,

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the polar bears are forced to head for land.

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They're excellent swimmers

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and can cover 100 miles of open water if need be.

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Off east Greenland, there is little ice left by August,

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so walruses haul out to rest on land.

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They're moulting,

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getting rid of their old, parasite-ridden skin.

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WALRUSES GRUNT

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A bathe in the cold water brings some relief from the itching.

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But even there, the odd scratch is irresistible.

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They make daily excursions out to deeper water.

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Down at 20 metres, they root around in the sediment

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using their bristles to search out soft-shelled clams.

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Once they find a clam, they suck its flesh from the shell

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with their powerful, muscular mouths.

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Walruses can feed for five minutes this deep

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before they have to return to the surface to breathe.

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Elsewhere in the Arctic,

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belugas are gathering in their thousands.

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They congregate in just a few large estuaries.

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Belugas of all ages and sizes come here.

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There are even young calves.

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Some are so young - born only a week or so ago -

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that they need help.

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They swim on their mothers' backs to breathe more easily.

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As the tide moves up the estuary,

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the belugas follow, swimming into shallow water.

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Like walruses, they also need to moult.

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A combination of warm, fresh water

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and vigorous rubbing against the gravel does the trick.

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They remain here for days or even weeks,

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so it's likely that socialising

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is also important to them.

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After moulting, they head back out to sea to feed.

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It's now autumn and the sea begins to freeze over once again.

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Thin sheets of ice form at the surface

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and pile up layer upon layer,

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gradually creating an impenetrable barrier.

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By late November,

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the Arctic ocean is sealed once again by ice.

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The lights of the aurora play in the winter sky.

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At the other end of the planet in the Antarctic,

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there is the southern aurora.

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Antarctica is now emerging from winter.

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This is the coldest, windiest place in the world.

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Temperatures are hovering at a numbing -50.

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The returning sun has very little warmth.

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Very few animals can survive such extreme conditions.

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But emperor penguins can.

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Standing on the frozen sea, they endure the full force of the storms.

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Only by huddling together can they survive the appalling winter months.

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They take it in turns to bear the brunt of the gales.

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They can only live here at all

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because Antarctica is surrounded by the great southern ocean.

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No land predators have reached it

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so, unlike Arctic animals, they are not threatened by polar bears.

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The sea is still frozen

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but one seal, nonetheless, manages to stay here

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even throughout the winter.

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The Weddell seal.

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Underwater, it's protected from the storms above

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but it must have access to the air all year in order to breathe.

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And they keep their breathing holes open with their teeth.

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Only by continually scraping away at the ice

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can they maintain access to the air.

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That means their teeth get worn down.

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Then they can no longer hunt or eat effectively.

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Weddell seals die young.

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The continent of Antarctica is so isolated and so high -

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almost 5,000 metres in places -

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that it's considerably colder than the Arctic.

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Ice slides slowly down from its centre towards its rim

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in immense glaciers.

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During winter, the continent effectively doubles in size

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as the sea freezes over.

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Ice forms around its shores

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and extends outwards for hundreds of miles around the entire land mass.

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Under the sea ice live small, shrimp-like creatures.

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Krill. They have been here all winter.

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During these dark months,

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they feed by scraping algae from the ice.

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Remarkably, they also shrink in size

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and revert to their juvenile form to save energy.

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As the temperature rises in spring, the ice begins to melt

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and little air bubbles are released.

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Microscopic algae grow around the bubbles

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and the krill graze on them, gathering them up with their legs.

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As the sun's rays grow stronger

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and penetrate deeper into the water, floating algae begin to flourish.

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The krill leave the dwindling ice

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and gather in swarms to harvest this new crop.

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Far to the north, beyond the blanket of sea ice,

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chinstrap penguins have been overwintering in the open ocean.

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An iceberg gives them the chance of a rest -

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if they can get on it.

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THEY SQUAWK

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But at this time of year,

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where they really want to be is on land.

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It's getting there that's tricky.

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It's spring, and the penguins are returning to breed.

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Their need to get ashore is now urgent and imperative.

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Doing so is a matter of timing -

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and picking the right wave.

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But their journey has only just begun.

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Most of them will have to walk many miles in order to find a nest site.

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PENGUINS CRY

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This is Zavodovski Island,

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which has the largest penguin colony in the world.

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About two million chinstraps breed here and they come to this island

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for a good reason.

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It's an active volcano. The heat from the crater and the fumaroles

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keeps the slopes free from the ice and snow,

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allowing these chinstraps to breed earlier than those further south.

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But then again, living on an active volcano is not without its risks.

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Unlike the emperors, these penguins can lay eggs on the bare ground.

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Little wonder so many of them brave the mountainous waves to get here.

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Further south, near the continent,

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the blanket of sea ice is beginning to break up.

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Icebergs are gigantic fragments of ice

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that have broken off the front of glaciers.

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Over winter, they were frozen into the sea ice,

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but now they are adrift once more.

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As the bergs break up, they form brash ice.

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It litters the backwaters of the Antarctic Peninsula.

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WHOOSHING

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Minke whales make their way into these placid waters in summer.

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This is the most abundant whale in the Southern Ocean.

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Minkes are one of the smallest of all the baleen whales.

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Like all others, they come here to feed.

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The majestic humpback whales are also summer visitors.

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They have come thousands of miles from their tropical breeding grounds

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to gather the food that is available here in summer.

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In four months,

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they accumulate enough fat

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to provide energy for the rest of the year.

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All these animals have come here in search of one thing -

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the krill.

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Krill is the mainstay of the Antarctic food web.

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It occurs in phenomenal quantity -

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billions of individuals in one swarm,

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and swarms can stretch for miles.

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Fur seals also collect this rich, superabundant food.

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Krill swarms are very patchy,

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but once found, feeding is easy.

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Humpbacks engulf hundreds of thousands of them

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in a single gargantuan mouthful.

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When the going is good, the whales feed continuously,

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each eating up to two tonnes of krill in 24 hours.

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Further south, near the continent, the sea ice is still sound.

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The ice remains for most of the summer.

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Emperor penguins make their home here.

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These have been feeding out at sea

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and are now ready to return to the colony to feed their chicks.

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Instead of going straight for the ice edge,

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the penguins hesitate some distance away.

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They are nervous.

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They dive down and investigate the ice edge.

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And for good reason.

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Leopard seals patrol this border.

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Leopard seals are the Antarctic's equivalent of polar bears.

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They are the top predators, but they hunt most successfully in the water,

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so by and large, the animals they prey on are safer out on the ice.

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RATTLING WHINE

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They have a lazy grace that belies their ferocious nature.

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Confident that the coast is clear,

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the emperor penguins head for the ice.

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But they don't linger.

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Now they have a long walk back to the colony.

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Emperor colonies are set back from the ice edge.

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In winter, they may be 100 miles from it,

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but as summer progresses and the ice melts,

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the edge comes ever closer to the colony.

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When the chicks are ready for their first swim, the water is close by.

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This colony is in the lee of a headland

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and that prevents the ice from being broken up by ocean currents.

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The returning adults are so full of food, they can barely walk.

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But no predator threatens them now.

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They can take their time.

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HIGH-PITCHED CRIES MINGLE WITH SQUAWKS

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Somehow, in this melee of 60,000 or so penguins,

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a parent has to find its chick.

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It returns to the place where it last left its chick

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in the hope that it might still be close by.

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But chicks tend to wander,

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so the adult has to call to it.

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The chick responds

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and they home in on one another.

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The chick's cries stimulate the adult

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to regurgitate some fish.

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With the return of one parent, the other is free to feed for itself.

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Aware of the leopard seal's presence,

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the penguins press together at the ice edge,

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unwilling to be the first to dive in.

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Occasionally, the seal comes onto the ice and attempts to grab one.

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But its most successful strategy by far is to lie in wait.

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It hides behind a corner of ice.

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The penguins decide to make a dash for it.

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The first wave of penguins escape.

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Once in open water, they will be safe.

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But the seal is alerted by the noise,

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and makes its attack.

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Almost invariably, it makes a kill.

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Encouraged by the absence of the seal,

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the remaining penguins make a break for the open sea.

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In time, their chicks will fledge.

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And when the Antarctic autumn is near its end,

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these adults will walk across the newly formed ice,

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to endure yet another winter on the frozen sea.

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Of all the ocean habitats,

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the Poles have to be one of the most demanding places in which to film.

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Not only do you have the problems of keeping filming equipment working

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in temperatures well below zero,

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but you also have your own survival to consider.

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Ice may be beautiful, but it's treacherous.

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Pieces can break off, leaving you drifting in the freezing seas.

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Diving under the ice requires special skills.

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Cameraman Doug Allan has those skills in abundance,

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having spent much of his life filming around the Poles.

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On the Arctic Islands of Svalbard,

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Doug Allan and polar expert Jason Roberts

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are in search of polar bears.

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They are carrying everything they need to live up here for four weeks.

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But almost straight away, they run into a problem.

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We've got "white-out" - we've got no contrast.

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The next route lies out over the sea ice and we need good conditions.

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So we've decided to stop here at this snow-covered cabin

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in the hope that the weather gets better.

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And the snow covering the cabin wasn't just on the outside.

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Cup of tea, stage one!

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Cabins like this one are set up by hunters and fishermen,

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who use them in season.

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They provided a vital base camp for our film makers.

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Near the shore line of Svalbard, the ice is moving.

0:45:190:45:23

Polar bears come here to try to catch seals.

0:45:230:45:27

To find a white bear in this white wilderness requires persistence.

0:45:270:45:33

Brrr. 11 hours.

0:45:410:45:44

I feel as though these things have been glued on my eyeballs.

0:45:440:45:48

One bear - but just much too wary of us to let us get anywhere close.

0:45:480:45:54

A long day for not very much.

0:45:540:45:57

Several months earlier, filming in the Antarctic,

0:46:020:46:05

Doug had had better luck finding the animals.

0:46:050:46:09

Emperor penguins are regular commuters.

0:46:090:46:13

Every day, they return from feeding out at sea

0:46:130:46:16

using exactly the same exit point along the ice edge.

0:46:160:46:21

Keep rolling!

0:46:280:46:31

Still coming!

0:46:310:46:33

A remote camera under the ice

0:46:330:46:35

helped us predict exactly when the penguins would emerge.

0:46:350:46:40

Penguins may be more predictable than polar bears,

0:46:410:46:45

but survival logistics in Antarctica are very demanding.

0:46:450:46:49

With the nearest civilisation a thousand miles away,

0:46:510:46:56

everything you need has to be brought in.

0:46:560:46:59

An Italian Antarctic scientific research team

0:47:070:47:09

kindly flew in a special camp which was set up near the ice edge.

0:47:090:47:13

Back in the Arctic, the weather is still holding things up.

0:47:160:47:21

This is definitely not a day to be looking for bears.

0:47:210:47:26

It's about minus 15. Wind chill is something ferocious.

0:47:260:47:31

I'm gonna go back in the hut.

0:47:310:47:34

No matter how bad the weather, we always put up our trip-wires.

0:47:360:47:41

Just in case we get a visitor in the night, when we're asleep.

0:47:410:47:46

We put up trip wires, which are basically explosion fences.

0:47:460:47:51

A bear comes along, trips a wire and an explosion goes off,

0:47:510:47:56

which will hopefully scare the bear off, or at least wake us up.

0:47:560:48:01

Two bottles! One Bacardi, one Cointreau found in the hut...

0:48:030:48:10

However, both unmistakably paraffin.

0:48:120:48:16

Well, we may get driven to them!

0:48:160:48:19

In Antarctica, the Italian scientific research

0:48:220:48:26

involved diving under the ice

0:48:260:48:28

to measure light coming from the surface to analyse algal growth.

0:48:280:48:34

This gave Doug the opportunity to get some shots below the ice.

0:48:380:48:43

A dubious pleasure.

0:48:430:48:46

It's quite nice, really big platelets of ice, like this.

0:48:470:48:53

And very impressive when Mac was crawling in amongst it

0:48:530:48:56

trying to find a space for the light sensor.

0:48:560:48:58

Very nice. Browns, greens, all kind of colours.

0:48:580:49:02

Even a Weddell seal came by briefly

0:49:020:49:05

and swam away. Good. Nice.

0:49:050:49:08

The main problem under the ice is NOT the cold.

0:49:080:49:13

The water has quite a constant temperature, just above freezing -

0:49:130:49:18

far warmer than at the surface.

0:49:180:49:20

The real danger of diving under the ice is losing your way out.

0:49:200:49:25

One of the advantages of working in the polar regions

0:49:390:49:42

is that in the summer, the sun never sets.

0:49:420:49:45

You can work out on the ice round the clock.

0:49:450:49:48

Just as well for Doug and Jason,

0:49:480:49:50

who still haven't found their polar bear.

0:49:500:49:53

Freeze-dried chicken in curry.

0:50:000:50:02

Absolutely lovely at minus 20, nice and warm.

0:50:020:50:06

Mix it with a bit of water.

0:50:070:50:11

Despite the food, things did seem to be looking up.

0:50:110:50:15

At long last, after days of searching,

0:50:150:50:19

they had found a polar bear cub...

0:50:190:50:21

..and its mother.

0:50:230:50:25

The light was ideal for filming,

0:50:260:50:29

but the bears were not being co-operative.

0:50:290:50:33

That was so frustrating.

0:50:330:50:36

We had this female and cub, we've been kind of watching her,

0:50:360:50:41

doing a bit of hunting and never very close.

0:50:410:50:45

She came into this nice position, then I took a few steps towards her.

0:50:450:50:50

She was a long way away, but she completely reacted the wrong way,

0:50:500:50:56

and I lost all her confidence, and now she's off somewhere

0:50:560:51:01

and it's such a nice day for filming.

0:51:010:51:04

I thought we had it, and, oh...

0:51:040:51:07

Despite the setbacks, two days later, Doug's persistence paid off.

0:51:130:51:19

He was able to win back the confidence of the bears.

0:51:190:51:23

It's five o'clock in the morning, and the 18th day of the shoot.

0:51:300:51:35

I think we just cracked it. We had a female there,

0:51:350:51:40

with the cub. She did a lot of pouncing about.

0:51:400:51:45

50, 80 metres away. A nice sort of distance.

0:51:450:51:49

You know what she did when she was finished?

0:51:510:51:56

She was so relaxed, she sat down,

0:51:560:51:59

and gathered the cub into her and suckled her head onto the camera.

0:51:590:52:04

I tell you, it's a weight off your mind

0:52:040:52:08

when you get something like that. It's incredible.

0:52:080:52:11

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