Episode 3 Welsh Heartland: The Llŷn Peninsula

Jutting majestically into the Irish Sea, on the tip

of the North West Wales coast, Pen Llyn - the Llyn Peninsula.

Attracting thousands of visitors every year, families have

been coming for generations to enjoy its unspoilt landscape.

How long have we've been coming here now?

-40 years?

-40 years, something like that, yeah.

But there's also another Llyn not all the visitors get to know.

A stronghold of Welsh culture and language.

They ask you, "Do you speak it every day?"

And I think,

"This is our language, this is what we speak, this who we are!"

Where old traditions are still part of life.

The Welshest Welsh bit of Wales there ever has been!

In this series, we follow the lives of the people who call

Pen Llyn home and reveal what it means to try

and guard a Welsh way of life through the changing seasons.

Can they try and make a living

and safeguard a culture, in one of Wales's truly Welsh heartlands?

It's High Summer on Llyn, a time

when the place opens its doors to tens of thousands of visitors.

From tents to caravans, short holiday lets to posh second homes,

Llyn is ready to accommodate its new arrivals.

At least we've had a sunny day. Goodness, imagine, it's not that

good on the beach when it's raining.

How long do you think it'll take us to get the tent up?

The tent, probably about an hour.

One of the busiest tourist destinations

is the resort of Abersoch,

where nearly half of all the local houses are holiday homes.

Arnie Rooke-Dennis moved to the area 15 years ago and looks after

in excess of 100 of these properties all over Llyn.

Today, she's on the outskirts of Abersoch,

cleaning a house owned by a family from Yorkshire.

There's a little bar area and there's a separate dishwasher there

and I think this is a beer pump here.

And, obviously, the Champagne and wine chillers set at the right

temperature below. I'd love one of these at home!

Like many of the second homes on Llyn,

this place is only used for part of the year.

But Arnie's job is to make sure

it's spic and span for whenever the owners want to visit.

You feel quite protective about them, actually,

cos you're looking after them and you've got a position of

responsibility from the homeowner.

The customers are all very nice, genuine lovely people.

So, we have, you know, nice banter with them and stuff like that.

Abersoch is a property hotspot and despite the downturn,

prices have rocketed in recent years - with one house

selling for over three million pounds.

But for some, it's a price worth paying.

There's one house that we're cleaning at the moment

and it's being renovated ready for their retirement, so

there's plenty to do and it's beautiful and clean and safe.

So, yes, why wouldn't you want to come here, it's lovely!

Only two miles from Abersoch but a million miles away

from its wealthy lifestyles, lies the quiet village of Mynytho.

I've heard many refer to Mynytho as "Upper Abersoch".

So, when you think of the prices, I think the prices are falling out

into the Abersoch price band.

Then, I've heard people call Llanbedrog "Lower Abersoch".

So, it's as if Abersoch is getting bigger and the prices of the houses

are definitely demonstrating that.

SHE CALLS HER CHILDREN IN WELSH

Claire Russell Griffiths was born and brought up on Llyn,

but can't afford to buy a house here.

And so Claire, husband Gareth and their three children waited

three years for a local authority house on the edge of the village.

This is the nearest I'll get to the wealth of Abersoch, I think.

Definitely, a very expensive view, with a very good premium,

I would imagine.

Knowing that there's no chance in hell

I could ever afford a house down there!

In addition to the struggle to find a home,

Claire has also had difficulties in getting a well-paid job on Llyn.

And so three years ago,

she went back to college to retrain as a social worker.

Yeah, well, this is the last summer that I'll be a student, anyway.

So, I'll be working next summer.

All being well, so, we're going to try and make the most of the time

we can, doing activities with the kids now.

But because I've got a dissertation it's

always at the back of your mind.

So, we're going to have a day of rest today, if you can call it that.

Even if she qualifies, Claire may still struggle to find work

locally, but today, the family are putting all their worries to

one side and are heading off for a day out at a local festival.

Similar to many other families on Llyn, Claire's family are having to

make compromises, in order to live and work in the place they love.

Living on Llyn can come at a cost...

with one beach hut fetching nearly £100,000.

Have you ever thought of living here then?

Yes, I would buy somewhere here when I retire, I think.

-But there's no work here now, is there? So...

-No, guess not.

-That's the problem.

-Guess not.

Yeah, and also, I suppose there's a lot of holiday cottages,

-aren't there and they drive the prices up, don't they?

-Yeah.

But even Llyn prices aren't enough to put some people off.

As soon as I see the hills, I know I'm on my way home.

I found the house on the internet, originally. We were looking further

down near Morfa Nefyn.

A house came up down there and that, unfortunately, didn't quite work out

and then this one here came up.

Which had even better views, the most beautiful views down to Pwllheli.

Karen Devlin is from Derbyshire,

but fell in love with Llyn after coming here on holiday.

I'd been down to the area as a teenager.

We used to come camping down near Abersoch.

But very little time, actually. It was a case of once we found it,

coming down and exploring and finding the best place for us down here.

And this really is, it's so close to the main roads

and yet when you see it you'll see we're quite on our own up there,

which is beautiful.

A bargain? Erm, for me, yes, definitely! I can't believe

that we could afford somewhere like this.

I don't know why the people moved out of the house that we've move into.

I can't believe that anybody would want to leave.

And when you've got scenery like that, it's worth it.

Welcome to my new home!

Beginning of July.

We got the keys,

I called in at Caernarfon and came down here and...

yes, this is it, I've got my house.

They keys...couldn't work out which ones were which,

so I spent ages stuck out here just looking at my view, actually.

It's just absolutely fantastic!

Over on the remote island of Bardsey, it's changeover day.

If you could get your stuff out about 20 past ten,

something like that.

Warden Rhodri Evans is having to organise boat trips for the

guests who are leaving...

-You're not going off until 10.50.

-Brill.

..as well as making sure all the houses are ready for new arrivals.

Hello! Cracking day again!

There are several properties on the

island, which used to house working Bardsey families.

Now, they're available as holiday lets.

Originally, there were nine farms

and I think there were about 80 people living on the island.

There was a school...you know, it was very thriving community,

erm, at one time.

And, of course, you know, times change in terms of what people...

..people's expectations have changed.

So, it couldn't possibly support nine families any more.

So, the Trust actually lets the houses that used to be the

farmhouses and it just lets them out...

..to visitors.

And it's quite funny because

I see people coming and arriving and

when they arrive they say,

"We're going to do this and we're going to do that and we're going

"be up the mountain and running around and doing this..."

And by the end of the week they're all going, "Yeah, whatever..."

They're quite happy to sit and relax and have a glass of wine

or whatever it is.

But this is no time for relaxation.

A visitor from Australia, whose father was born and raised

on the island, is coming to stay in one of the original farmhouses.

He'll be here in a week's time but the place is far from ready.

All the houses on the island are now owned

and maintained by a charitable trust,

but building materials and builders have to be shipped in.

Back on the mainland on Bodgaeaf Uchaf Farm,

they're also doing some last minute renovations.

Gwawr Hughes is expecting her first baby, and so mother-in-law

Margiad is helping her put the finishing touches to her new home.

We've got a week to go.

So, yes, we're cutting it a bit fine, to be honest,

but we're nearly there now, anyway.

-Not too much to worry about.

-You might not be on your date with the

-first one.

-No, no.

-But then again, we never know.

-No.

It's exactly like with cows and sheep, isn't it, Gwawr?

-Yes.

-We're both used to those

and you never now, there isn't an exact date, really.

We'll just see how it goes.

Gwawr and partner Tomos have been renovating an old farmhouse,

bought with a mortgage and a loan from the family.

But with the baby due any minute,

Gwawr is glad to be finally moving into their first home.

It's been a long way since start to finish

but Tomos has put the hours in,

so by now we have reached our goal, really.

So, yes, looking forward now just to move everything here and move in.

It's what we've been working for, really, to get a home for them,

and this is it and a start in life and, yes, we're very happy.

Both Gwawr and Margiad are from farming backgrounds

but moved to Pen Llyn from other parts of Wales.

-The men.

-Sex...

-THEY LAUGH

..obviously! The animal in people!

It's a very good place to bring up children. It's very rural and...

..well, they can spend a lot of time outside, can't they? You know,

-playing, as you've probably done and I've probably done.

-Yes.

THEY SPEAK WELSH

The only problem is the distance. Well, it's not a problem, really,

I think it plays a large part in keeping Pen Llyn as it is.

-It's an unique and special place.

-Yes.

You've got to love driving, yes, you have!

-How many years have you been coming down here then, Paul?

-Eight years.

-Eight years?

-I only come for the rain.

But for now, the rain is holding off

and so Claire is enjoying a day out with the family.

The Glass Butter Beach Festival is one of many summer events

on Llyn, providing a weekend of entertainment and seasonal jobs.

-Have you been busy?

-Fairly busy.

But the kind of work Claire is looking for

is hard to come by on Llyn.

So the family are having to consider the prospect of moving away.

There's a part of me, because of wanting to have a career,

thinking, what if I have to leave?

I think it would be a difficult decision

and one my husband definitely doesn't want to make.

Thank you, cheers.

We did discuss, didn't we, moving?

Mm. No chance!

I think Pwllheli was too far, wasn't it?!

Any work you do in this area is tourist-based, mainly,

and the season seems to be getting shorter.

It is difficult everywhere, isn't it? But...

What gets to you sometimes is wealthy people

who move into the area, they have got plenty of money.

It's not a problem or a worry for them.

You feel a bit jealous. Well, I do anyway.

-Seeing all the nice posh cars and boats!

-Aye.

For some people on Llyn, money coming in means money in the bank.

Welcome to the Costa Del Llyn!

Busy, busy, busy!

It's a hectic weekend in Porthdinllaen,

and landlord Stuart Webley is making hay while the sun shines.

The tills are ringing and he's run out of change.

It's manic.

Can I get a bag of each? I need everything for change. Cheers, love.

Thanks a lot, darling. Bye!

That's my mother.

My mother.

The powers that be!

No, I need change.

She's the bank.

She'll be delivering a bag of each of all my change in a minute.

There are 1,000 people on the beach, who all want serving.

I better check my bar. See you in a bit, gents.

So, Stuart has had to take on 15 temporary members of staff...

-Two Thatchers?

-Yes, please.

..who are all rushed off their feet.

Summer is the time when many Llyn businesses make their money.

I've got swag!

Gold coins.

Gold coins, pennies from heaven!

It's days like these that keep Ty Coch going all year round.

This is the make or break of the season.

This is what tides you over for the winter.

You know, this is the serious part really. All hands on deck.

No messing around. No-one waiting for food, no-one waiting for drinks.

Full tilt boogie, all the time.

But if there's money coming in, there's always money going out.

-What? You two want paying, do you?

-Yes, please!

Oh, really?!

I'll be back in a minute. I've just got to sort some wages out.

Oh, really? Oh, my God!

On Ynys Enlli, Bardsey Island, the Australian visitors have arrived.

A couple from Sydney, Tim and Jane Hughes.

-Morning!

-Morning!

Tim's father was born and brought up on Bardsey,

but emigrated to Australia in search of a better life.

So Tim has come back to re-connect with his roots.

Let's have a cup of tea.

Work on the roof isn't quite finished, but it's watertight,

and Rhodri's on hand to make sure that the couple

have everything they need.

Would you have a couple more blankets?

-We were a bit cold last night.

-Sure.

We've no shortage of blankets in the store, I'll get you a couple round.

But Rhodri's also curious to know

a little bit more about the family's history.

So, what's your connection with the island?

Is it that your grandfather was actually, was he born here?

I don't know if he was born here, but my father was born here.

Oh, right.

And the other siblings, they were all born on Bardsey, other than one.

There were nine of them. He was the eldest of nine.

But they were here until about the late '30s.

And this is your grandfather?

-Yes.

-Well, well.

Here he is. Apparently that's him.

I'm looking for my dad, but I think that's before his time.

-This couple here.

-Yes.

Even though his family moved to the other side of the globe,

Tim still feels a strong connection with Llyn.

It's what they say, soul-deep.

It goes further than just being a tourist.

I can... I walked down the little lane, this little road here,

and I think, my dad would have walked here.

He would have played here, he was just a kid.

-And your grandfather.

-My grandfather.

It's lovely to come here. It won't be the last time.

I will be back, I love Wales.

It's one of the most beautiful places on earth.

You should be very proud of your heritage.

With the summer holidays drawing to a close, Abersoch is still buzzing.

We're pretty full, guys.

When can you fit us in?

It'll be tomorrow, I reckon. It is full.

-You said that to us yesterday!

-I'm sorry about that, guys.

Glad to see them come, glad to see them go.

I mean, at one time you could park your car easily in the car parks,

they were never so full.

But there was never anywhere to eat at night.

Well no, it's kept these businesses going.

As you say, there weren't those businesses, shops and restaurants.

Do you think they're happy about it, the people who live here?

-I should think they've done jolly well!

-Think they're glad we're here?

SHE CHUCKLES

Over in Llanaelhaearn, Karen Devlin is settling into her new home,

and her new way of life.

In daylight, we don't need the telly on.

Although I did use the telly a lot when I was learning Welsh.

In Derbyshire, you don't get much opportunity for Welsh conversation,

so I used to put...

..children's Welsh television on and listen to that,

just so I could listen to the conversation

and get used to hearing sounds,

because when you first listen to a language,

even things like names, they could be a word that I just don't know,

so I was trying to learn everything as much as I could.

-How are you doing, love?

-OK.

Ed's just doing a little bit now. Yep.

How are you getting on? It looks fantastic.

-I'm getting there.

-Well done.

I'm very impressed.

-Are you wanting a brew, love?

-Yes, please.

-OK.

Karen and husband Ed are both keen on learning Welsh,

but they are in a minority,

with only a small percentage of incomers sharing their enthusiasm.

The more people perhaps like ourselves that move in

and don't make an effort,

we are surely going to help in the demise of the language,

and that would be very sad.

It would be very sad.

To be able to live somewhere and be fluent in a language,

for me, would be fantastic, and this is the first opportunity I've had.

I believe it's difficult, but I like it.

I enjoy it.

It gives me a lot of pleasure when I'm doing my learning.

What is a cup of tea in Welsh?

Paned o de. Would you like one?

Back at Bodgaeaf Uchaf, Gwawr and Tomos' new home

is finally finished, and Llyn welcomes another brand-new arrival.

There's a saying in Welsh...

SHE SPEAKS WELSH

..which means you are very besotted,

or you don't realise how besotted you're going to be,

until you've had the grandchild, and it's so true.

Yes, it's a very happy time in our lives, I think.

This is Elgan.

Elgan, come on!

Elgan Llewelyn Williams.

Good boy.

The blackberry visitors.

yes, we call one type of visitor that comes here every year,

at this time of year they come, at the time of the blackberries.

They come to pick the blackberries

and, you know, it's not enough that they pinch our houses,

they pinch the blackberries as well!

You know, how can we live?!

Yes, it is. It's very nice, as I said before,

it's a very nice place to live.

It's a very nice house as well, so I think we're very, very lucky

to be given an opportunity like that, especially with house prices

so high at the moment.

It's very, very hard for young people, especially in this area,

to get their foot on the ladder,

so I think we're very lucky.

It's not quite as easy. No.

In Mynytho, it's the beginning of a new school term.

And time for Claire to get stuck into some homework.

The job that I would love more than anything in the world,

would be to be working for Cafcass,

so I would be an independent social worker for the courts,

which would mean having to travel Llandudno Junction.

I think you are just resigned to the fact that you are going to have

an hour and half's journey each morning to get to work,

and an hour and a half to get back.

So...

A lovely place to live, but it is kind of like almost frustrating

in some ways, and the opportunities aren't here.

It's like a brain drain type of feeling.

You just wish there was some way to bring these really good

well-paid jobs in to keep us here,

but staying here and being able to afford to stay here

is getting harder and harder.

I can see why a lot of people go away and don't come back.

Ed, brew's ready.

As Llyn closes its doors on a busy summer,

and with the visitors heading back home,

life goes on for its residents.

That's yours.

Thank you.

With some settling down to new lives.

Watching the sun go down,

the colours that it produces on the hills over there, amazing.

Yes, amazing. I'm stuck for words.

I might have to go into "bendigedig" and things like that!

Whilst others struggle to ensure that this will always be

a place to call home.

This is where I belong,

this is where I feel I want to stay for the rest of my life.

I really hope that there is a way that we can do this.

Be able to afford to stay here.

Yes, Pen Llyn is definitely my heartland.

Next time, Llyn's bikers get to see the place from a new angle.

People coming to the area appreciate things more

than we do on our own doorstep, maybe.

I've never been to Bardsey, I'm quite ashamed to say.

Whilst others enjoy a taste of the past.

I have been bombed.

I have been machine-gunned.

All sorts of efforts at killing me, but I am still alive.