Rathlin Island Wild Week Revisited


Rathlin Island

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Just after 8:30am.

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I'm straight off the ferry.

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There are harbour seals sitting in the distance.

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Eider ducks swimming past them.

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There's a red-breasted merganser in among those eider ducks.

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That's a fish-eating duck with quite a sharp beak on him.

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Oh, look, that's a shelduck.

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It has to be a shelduck right in the corner.

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That's a real bonus.

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Red-breasted merganser, shelduck and eiders really, really close to me.

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Normally I use my spotting scope and look out to sea to see them, but they're right here!

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This, for me, is the best wildlife hotspot

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possibly on this entire island.

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I REALLY love this place.

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'The best way to see Rathlin is with a local,

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'and Liam McFaul is an islander born and bred.

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'He knows this place like the back of his hand.'

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That's such a beautiful scene lying there in the sunshine, scratching themselves and yawning.

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-These are harbour seals?

-Yes, there's commons there, and there's a grey in there as well.

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-So a common seal is the same as a harbour seal?

-Yeah.

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And the grey seals, there's one I can see on the edge. There's three together there.

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There's one looking at us there, which is a common,

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and then the one next to it

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lying really lazily,

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you'd think it's using the other one as a pillow!

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The grey seals have this kind of long Roman nose.

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That's one of the telltale signs. We were here a few minutes ago and we were watching them porpoising,

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leaping clear of the water. It looked like they were just playing.

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I've seen boats there

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and they follow the boats at the same speed just keeping going.

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You think they're looking at you saying, "I can go faster than you!"

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This is always my first port of call whenever I come to the island.

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I want to see the seals and then I want to have a look at the birds.

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But for years now, I have been trying to see chuffs,

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a beautiful crow here,

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and there's the last breeding pair in Northern Ireland right here.

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-Any chance that I'm going to see that today?

-Well, we can go and have look and hopefully we'll be lucky,

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but they're hard to find - they're there one minute and gone the next.

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But I know the area that they're actually using

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so we can go there and have a look and see.

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We're still on the hunt for the chuffs,

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but after a really short walk, how many species of birds have we seen?

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-I think that's 22 now.

-22!

-Just since we've left the harbour.

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But what we weren't expecting to find is these birds,

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Irish Brent geese. These birds should probably be in Iceland by now.

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They're quite late. It's amazing to see those four sitting there.

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-Aren't they just beautiful?

-Beautiful.

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Really gorgeous birds, and for me, I can never see them,

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but I have to say, savour this!

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There you go, look, look! Hares.

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Gingery-coloured face.

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Beautiful creature.

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The sun's shining on them nice.

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This is like THE iconic Irish animal, you know?

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Genetically pure, isolated,

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come to Rathlin, see just wonderful creatures like that.

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No chuffs, mind you, but we'll keep looking.

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A year, two years, three years,

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you could go half a lifetime and not see one

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on the mainland as you call it, in the rest of Northern Ireland.

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Hardly ever see one on the mainland, to be honest.

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Fermanagh and some areas of County Armagh are good for them, but nothing like this.

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-It'd be very unusual if you came here, walked up the length of the island and not see a hare.

-Yeah.

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We've entered up to Rathlin today

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to call in here where there's a fair bit of activity.

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What kind of birds are these?

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At the moment, we have guillemots, razorbills, some black guillemots,

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kittiwake on the ledges.

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They'll fly in and out for a few weeks to locate their nest sigh. They'll be laying their eggs soon.

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Those eggs are very well trained,

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because they know not to roll towards the water!

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Yes, I was telling you before, they lay one egg,

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and it's got a pointy end on it, and it's designed in such a way

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that it never rolls off the edge of the cliff,

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cos you can imagine here sometimes, a large storm, a big swell

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blows in and the wind picks up, and the egg could have blown off,

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but in the majority of cases the egg stays on the ledge

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and happily hatches into a chick.

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But I have to say, if I were a sea bird,

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I think I would just stay here and forget about Rathlin.

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Yeah, well, maybe these are the smart ones!

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It's quiet here, smaller numbers, but as I say,

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when we get to Rathlin, it's spectacular.

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We have thousands of them out there.

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So we're just underneath the west lighthouse here,

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Ian, and this is what I call a colony of sea birds.

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Yeah, it's the West End, OK, of the sea bird world.

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They've just spent nine months out at sea, and have come in,

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and this is really their first week on the rocks.

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And they'll be nesting in the next few days.

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There must be thousands and thousands.

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Yeah, there's tens of thousands.

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Last week there was very few here, but they're in in big numbers today.

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What about jostling for position, though,

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how difficult is it for them to pick out the wee bit that they want?

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It does look a bit mad at times, but they all know their little patch.

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And the amazing thing is, when they lay an egg or have a chick later on,

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they can actually come back to it again,

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and you wonder how they find an egg in the middle of all that.

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You'll get most of the razorbills up near the top,

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and the guillemots are on the ledges and the middle bits,

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and the black guillemots are along the bottom

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and the puffins on the grassy banks.

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So they all have their own little area to breed on.

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But of all the places they could choose to come to, they have got

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very good taste, cos they've picked Rathlin year after year after year.

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It's the sort of habitat they look for,

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there's food in the sea, and as long as there's food,

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the birds will keep coming here. The cliffs are an idea habitat,

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there's no predators here, they're safe.

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Now, they're belting backwards and forwards

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and they're heading out to find food?

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Yeah, these birds will all sit on the surface and dive down,

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and they can almost fly under the water.

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The guillemots can go down to maybe 150ft in places

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to catch little sardines, little fish.

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Some of the puffins and that, maybe not as deep,

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but they all have their depth and feed under the water.

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And this is non-stop, this is continuous,

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cos they don't go to bed at 9pm or 10pm at night, do they?

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It never stops. If you're out here at midnight,

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the birds are still feeding and coming and going in the dark.

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And how healthy is the population?

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The numbers do go up and down a little bit some years,

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but overall it's still a pretty healthy colony here.

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As long as there's food in the sea for them,

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the birds will be here for a long time.

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There's something about seeing these cliffs from sea level, Ian,

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and I do feel very lucky to be able to do this today with you,

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because most people don't get to see it from this angle.

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No, I think we are lucky.

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We're looking from the sea up towards the cliffs,

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where most people come to the platform above us

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at the lighthouse and look down. It really is spectacular.

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You have to do this before you die.

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It's one of those things you have to do, yeah.

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What you're looking at here is a plant called pyramidal bugle,

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and this is actually the rarest plant in Ireland.

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And Rathlin is one of only two places

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that it occurs in the whole of Ireland.

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That is fantastic. I know bugle, like most people will, from other areas.

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It's very different.

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It's a pyramidal shape, much tighter to the ground.

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Yeah, it's very squat, as you say, and it has these lovely little

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blue flowers just in the ribs, up the sides.

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Very delicate. Very rare.

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It really is. And, do you know what, just while we sit here, Liam,

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the other stuff that I know like tormentil,

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really bright yellow again.

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Free-range egg yolk yellow.

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And there's a beautiful blue flower there. I don't know that, though.

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This little one here, it's a very lilac and star-shaped,

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a long stem, and this one's spring squill.

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That's a new one on me. I haven't seen that one before.

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Yeah, it is quite an uncommon one as well,

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but in some places you get absolute banks of it,

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there's a couple of places that's absolutely amazing for this.

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You come to a place like this, you see the beauty

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of the wider environment.

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But get down, close and personal,

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get at a child's eye level, and there is just treasure underfoot.

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