The Toughest Spring Yellowstone: Wildest Winter to Blazing Summer


The Toughest Spring

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WIND GUSTS

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Stretching out before me is the magnificent Yellowstone.

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This is one of the most dynamic...

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..unpredictable...

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..and exciting environments on Earth.

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HELICOPTER HUMS

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Deep in the Rocky Mountains,

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this vast wilderness is home

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to North America's most iconic wildlife.

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But every year,

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Yellowstone's animals are pushed to their absolute limits.

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Temperatures can swing from minus 40 in winter

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to almost plus 40 during the summer.

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And at the heart of this change is the thaw.

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The melt can last several months from March to July.

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And it's one of the most dramatic, natural events on Earth.

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How do the animals cope

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with such extremes of temperature?

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We're here to find out.

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I'm joined by biologist Patrick Aryee...

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Ooh! That's intense. >

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..and a team of wildlife cameramen and expert scientists.

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Last night, we brought you winter.

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Wildlife struggled in freezing temperatures.

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BISON GROWLS

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Tonight, it's spring.

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Life is about to change, but not always for the better.

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The thaw will melt the snow in the mountains

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and cause over one million tonnes of meltwater

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to crash through Yellowstone.

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Only the strongest animals will survive.

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Welcome to Yellowstone - The Toughest Spring.

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It's the end of April and seven degrees Celsius.

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The thaw is well under way.

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BIRDS CRY

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Spring has come to Yellowstone.

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Mammals, big and small, are emerging from their dens,

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birds are courting and nesting,

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the days are getting longer and warmer.

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Now, you may think that life is going to get easier.

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Yellowstone is bursting into life.

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Hummingbirds return after spending their winter in the warm south.

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Moose feast on the first green shoots.

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BIRD WARBLES

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Bison migrate back to their calving grounds.

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We're in the north-west of the USA,

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2,000 metres high up in the Rockies.

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Known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem,

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it's an area the size of Scotland,

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includes two National Parks

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and is bounded on three sides by mountain ranges.

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Biologist, Patrick Aryee, is at the southern end of Greater Yellowstone,

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catching up with one species

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that faces its greatest challenge in spring.

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Behind me are the Teton Mountains

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and this is the Snake River,

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home to North America's largest rodent, the beaver.

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There are 15 of them living on this stretch of river

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and they've built this enormous dam.

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I can't believe that this dam is not a man-made structure

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and that it's been made by beavers.

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I mean, it's incredible.

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Look at the size... of these...branches, and even...

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Look, here we've got these huge rocks as well.

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It acts as a way to slow down the waterways, like speed bumps, almost,

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but I've got to say that they are nature's most incredible engineers.

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But at this time of year,

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their dam is in real danger.

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Soon enough, all that snow is going to melt

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and all that meltwater is going to start flowing down

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into these river systems.

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And as that water starts to flow and cascade along this river,

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it could damage and even destroy,

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not only the dam, but also the lodge.

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And the lodge is where the beavers have been holed up

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for the last five months.

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Now, we've got a camera set up so we can actually see

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exactly what's going on inside there right now.

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If I come over here...

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That is incredible.

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Oh, they're just starting to wake up.

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BEAVERS GROAN

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In this lodge, we've got... There's two yearlings in there,

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two two-year-olds and then one adult.

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There should be another one, but I can't see it.

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This is our beaver family

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and we're going to be getting to know them very well.

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BEAVERS SQUEAK

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And we'll be following them over the coming months to see how they cope

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when the spring floods hit.

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Just seen one dive.

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Beavers are most comfortable in water.

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Their lumbering bodies are quite ungainly on land.

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He's huge!

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This stretch of river is home to 15 beavers.

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In April, the river bank is usually covered in a blanket of snow.

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So the beavers stay snuggled in their den.

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But this year, the snow has already disappeared.

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According to scientists, the thaw is three weeks early.

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That means the beavers can start venturing out

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on the search for new green shoots.

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This is brilliant, I'm just following this beaver...

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and hopefully, I'll get to see him when he comes up onto this next dam.

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This beaver hasn't eaten fresh food for five months.

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Over winter, the beavers' food supply is locked in snow and ice.

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They feed on twigs, leaves and bark of aspen and willow trees.

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But when there's so much snow on the ground, they can't get to it.

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Yet, beavers don't hibernate,

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so they must keep eating throughout the winter to survive.

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Their solution is ingenious.

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They collect a mound of twigs and vegetation,

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big enough to last for five months

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and store it by the underwater entrance to their home.

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Even when the river freezes over,

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they have a larder just a moment's swim away.

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But by the end of winter,

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the rotten twigs have lost most of their protein.

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This beaver is surviving on his own body fat.

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The early thaw, however, has given him a lifeline.

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This year, he can forage for fresh food

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three weeks earlier than normal.

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It's just what his hungry family needs.

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OK, that adult is now back inside the lodge.

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And it's got a mouth full of vegetation.

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BEAVERS SQUEAK

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These beavers have lost a third of their body weight over winter.

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To gain that weight back,

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they'll need to eat a kilogram of twigs and leaves every single day.

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The younger beavers squeak to demand food

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but when competition is this fierce...

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it's every beaver for itself.

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YOUNG BEAVERS SQUEAK

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In spring, twigs are rich in sugars and proteins,

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just what they need to kick-start their recovery.

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But to reach the fresh food, the beavers must first get to work.

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Not only are beavers phenomenal engineers, building all those dams,

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but they're also professional lumberjacks

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and they can take down whole trees, just like this one,

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and they do that using their super-sharp teeth.

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These bottom teeth are just like chisels

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and what they'll do is get their head in sideways

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and chew away at the bark.

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With smaller trees, they'll go right the way through

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and you'll often see beavers running away

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just before the trees fall down.

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But with bigger ones, like this one,

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they'll only get so far and then they'll move away

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and let the wind do the rest of the job.

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Now this is a really big tree.

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But the part the beavers are really interested in is up here,

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the top third,

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and I can see where they've gnawed away at this end

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and hauled all their branches back to the river

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to construct their lodge and the dams.

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And making sure their dams are reinforced

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before the spring floods hit is crucial.

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There are five dams on this stretch of river.

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This entire waterway, this system has been created by these beavers.

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They've made these...series of dams,

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which kind of create this lock system.

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The beavers have turned, what was a small stream,

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into a series of deep ponds.

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These pools allow them to stay in the water while foraging.

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On land, they're easy prey for predators, like wolves and bears.

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But crucially, this dam system also slows down the floodwater.

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At two metres wide and 40 metres long, the main dam is the strongest.

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But if this one breaches, the others will go too.

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BEAVER MOANS

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Right now, the beavers are safe in their lodge.

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But I'll follow them closely

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and find out how they get on as spring takes hold.

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For many animals, spring is the most important time of year.

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It's now May.

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BIRD WARBLES

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As soon as the snow melts,

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fresh vegetation appears.

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Scientists call it the "spring green-up"

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and it drives all life in Yellowstone.

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One animal relies on it more than almost any other...

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The Rocky Mountain elk.

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There are over 20,000 elk in Yellowstone.

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As the green-up moves from the lowlands to high mountain pastures,

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the elk move with it.

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This magnificent herd of elk that are straddling right across

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the sagebrush here and up the hill,

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are on their way to the calving grounds,

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a little bit further north from here.

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They'll be giving birth over the next few weeks.

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They'll hide their youngsters in the undergrowth

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while they go off to feed.

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This is a crucial move in order to protect them from predation

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by the largest carnivore here... the grizzly bear.

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Now, there are some grizzlies

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that have become particularly adept at finding those youngsters.

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And that source of protein

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is really great for adult bears and their cubs,

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needing desperately to put on weight after a long winter hibernation.

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It's as the snow line retreats from the valleys to the foothills

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that the female grizzlies and their cubs start emerging.

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They usually stay close to their dens until the end of May,

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but this year, the warm weather has enticed the bears away

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earlier than usual.

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But the elk calves won't be born for another month.

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So life for these cubs will now be harder.

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They will have to scratch a living digging up roots and grasses.

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Grizzly expert, Casey Anderson,

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is already seeing signs that there are plenty of bears around.

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They've been using trees as scratching posts.

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Yeah, this thing has been getting hammered, look at all this.

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They're leaving their scent behind.

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Cos there's just all kinds of mud and hair stuck on here, so...

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Yeah, it's going to be cool to see who is back in town.

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Patrick is joining Casey in the Gallatin Mountains

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to find out whether the early bears

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are getting enough to eat.

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Casey's tracked the mother and her two-year-old cubs to a wooded area

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halfway down the mountain.

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They've been feeding all morning and are likely to be somewhere close by.

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From here on, we've got to go slow, even lower our voice.

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The wind's really going in the wrong direction.

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The wind's carrying our scent right towards where the grizzly bears are

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and they have a sense of smell

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-that's about seven times stronger than a bloodhound.

-All right.

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'Casey thinks the bears will stay in this area for a while

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'to make the most of the early green shoots.

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'So for us, it's a waiting game.'

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It's amazing cos they just come out of nowhere.

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In that deep sagebrush,

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they love to just get down out of this wind

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and lay there, flat to the ground, cuddle up, keep each other warm.

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So we just got to... to keep scanning.

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You'll see like a little ear or they'll stretch their paw up.

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Yeah, look for those little subtle things popping out.

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What makes you think that this is a good spot for bears?

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Look right down here in this... green patch.

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You'll see where the bears have been excavating there

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and that's just classic in the springtime,

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they'll find these first really green spots,

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they've got a lot of moisture, get a lot of sun.

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So there has been a lot of activity down in that meadow there, so...

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there's a really good chance that... whoever did that,

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whatever bears did that are going to come back to that spot

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and do it again.

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But plants contain less than half the protein of meat.

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So they'll have to eat huge amounts to keep up their calorie count.

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-CASEY WHISTLES

-Hey, hey...

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Where?

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Right-right... Right down in the trees.

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Oh, yeah! Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah!

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Three bears.

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HE LAUGHS

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One... Two...

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Three. And there's like...

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Like a... Looks like a big female.

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One light cub, one dark cub.

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-It's pretty awesome.

-Yeah.

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Those look like two-year-old cubs.

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Being in this area just draws in females with cubs.

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Spot like that, well, you know,

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we've got dandelions, grasses and sedge.

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Even biscuitroot will grow in that area

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and that's all on the menu

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for a grizzly bear this time of year, so...

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They come right to that spot and they'll keep coming back,

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over and over and over again, till everything's gone.

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So, basically, this area here

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is kind of like an all-you-can-eat veggie buffet?

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Yeah, it's a salad bar.

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A dandelion plant only contains about three calories,

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and grass...even less.

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The early thaw is at least helping.

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But they must find two fields every day with rich sources of food,

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like this one, if they're going to survive.

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It's not just grizzly bears

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that must exploit the best pockets of food.

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The Rocky Mountain elk are still moving north following the green-up.

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And another of Yellowstone's residents is ahead of them...

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the bison.

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This year, the bison and elk are lucky.

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Not only have they had a milder winter,

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but the early thaw means there's plenty of grass around.

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And now in spring, it's full of protein.

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I've come to the Northern Range of Yellowstone.

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Park biologists have reported

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that a large herd of bison

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has come here to feast

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because this year

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the snow has already melted.

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The park is home to about 5,000 bison.

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BISON GROWLS

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This herd has made it through to spring fit and strong,

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which is crucial for the survival of their newborn calves.

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Calving season is just beginning here in Yellowstone National Park.

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This is the very first one I've seen. It's suckling, I think.

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A quarter of the baby bison in Yellowstone

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die in their first two months,

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but this mild weather will give them a much greater chance of survival.

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There's a tiny one, looks like it's probably only a day or two old.

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Beautiful, you can see that lovely chestnutty colour.

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They're extraordinary, bison calves.

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Within half an hour of being born, they're up on their feet

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and within an hour or two, they can run to keep up with their mothers.

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BISON GROWLS

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Sticking close to their mothers is vital.

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Because this spring, Yellowstone's top predator is particularly hungry.

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There are 100 wolves in Yellowstone National Park.

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They rely on bison and elk to survive the winter.

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But whilst the mild winter has been good for the bison,

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it's been bad for the wolves.

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They've struggled to hunt.

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Back in the winter, biologist Doug Smith

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observed the problem first-hand.

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Doug and his team monitor these wolves every single day.

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They've noted that whilst mild winters help the prey,

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they put predators at a disadvantage.

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When you're in ankle-deep snow, or just elbow-deep snow,

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a healthy elk, bison, deer will always outrun a healthy wolf.

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Wolves and elk run at the same speed,

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but elk are built for endurance -

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with sure footing, they can keep going for longer.

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So this winter, the wolves have been going hungry.

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They're having a particularly tough time here in the Northern Range,

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where five packs compete for food and territory.

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Doug has studied these wolves for over 20 years

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and in the last decade,

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their numbers have fallen dramatically.

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One pack, known by park biologists as the Lamar Canyon Pack,

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is extremely weak.

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If they don't gain strength quickly,

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they risk losing their territory to other wolves.

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Our wildlife camera team is down in the Lamar Valley following them.

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From a mile off, they spot some unusual behaviour.

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The wolves are taking on a whole herd of bison.

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They're hoping to snatch a newborn calf.

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This is a sign that the pack is desperate.

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Doug is helping us to analyse what's going on.

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These bison are doing classic defence.

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They're grouped together, they're big.

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They're not moving other than to attack the wolves.

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This is an age-old dance between power and agility.

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Wolves may be quick, but bison are strong.

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Getting this close risks a kick to the skull.

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Wolves would like to spread this group apart,

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break it up and then that would free up one of these calves

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that they could grab.

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A female charges, threatening to lash them with her hooves.

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You get caught by a foot, you get caught by a horn - injury, death.

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It's fascinating footage to watch.

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Uh, they're being aggressive, yet very careful.

0:23:240:23:28

Wolves definitely feel safer pursuing a fleeing prey

0:23:280:23:33

cos they can kind of come in from behind, grab and pull down.

0:23:330:23:38

To attack a standing herd means these wolves are desperate.

0:23:380:23:42

As they get hungry and it goes more days without food,

0:23:440:23:47

they're going to take more risks.

0:23:470:23:49

They finally close in.

0:23:490:23:51

This is the break in the herd they've been hoping for.

0:23:510:23:55

ADULT BISON GRUNTS, WOLVES WHINE

0:24:030:24:05

The mother can't do all this by herself, the wolves outnumber her.

0:24:080:24:11

They may get this calf, I can't believe this, you rarely see this.

0:24:130:24:17

ADULT BISON GRUNTS

0:24:170:24:19

But the calf makes it back to the safety of the herd...

0:24:270:24:30

..leaving nine very hungry wolves.

0:24:310:24:34

The Lamar Canyon Pack has failed.

0:24:370:24:39

Doug is concerned that these warmer winters and early springs

0:24:460:24:50

are part of a worrying trend.

0:24:500:24:52

We can see climate change affecting the park now, um...

0:24:530:24:56

Our wolf research has only been going a little over 20 years,

0:24:560:25:00

but you talk to people who were in Yellowstone 40 or 50 years ago,

0:25:000:25:05

and winter severity is just not like it used to be,

0:25:050:25:08

and this is a big factor in how this system works.

0:25:080:25:12

This winter and last winter were two of our...shortest winters we've had.

0:25:140:25:18

This, in a way, in a big picture way, favours the bison.

0:25:180:25:22

So we lost our snow at low elevation very early this year

0:25:220:25:26

and so any time the snow goes away, it gives the bison better footing...

0:25:260:25:29

Uh, they can deal with the wolves,

0:25:290:25:31

and secondly, it exposes the vegetation to sunlight.

0:25:310:25:34

The condition of bison will start to improve earlier, uh,

0:25:340:25:37

and so that hurts the wolves a little bit.

0:25:370:25:39

And so sitting aside and watching life evolve with that going on,

0:25:410:25:46

uh, has got me scared stiff.

0:25:460:25:48

It's the rate of climate change that Doug and his fellow scientists

0:25:500:25:54

find so shocking.

0:25:540:25:56

Temperatures here have been rising fast.

0:25:560:25:59

And the last decade has been the warmest since records began.

0:26:000:26:04

With Yellowstone's winters becoming shorter

0:26:080:26:11

and the spring starting earlier,

0:26:110:26:14

one animal in particular is extremely vulnerable.

0:26:140:26:17

The great grey owl.

0:26:240:26:26

These owls live in some of the coldest forests on Earth,

0:26:290:26:33

from Siberia to Scandinavia.

0:26:330:26:36

Yellowstone is just about cold enough for the owls to survive,

0:26:360:26:41

but if it gets any warmer,

0:26:410:26:43

scientists believe they won't be able to hold on.

0:26:430:26:46

Back in winter, cameraman Jeff Hogan

0:26:480:26:50

followed a pair of great grey owls in the Teton Mountains.

0:26:500:26:55

Great grey owls rely on small rodents like voles and gophers,

0:27:010:27:05

which live beneath the snow.

0:27:050:27:07

But owl biologists believe that the changing climate

0:27:070:27:11

is affecting their hunting.

0:27:110:27:13

These owls have to bust through this crust

0:27:130:27:17

and then maybe another foot of snow to get at their prey.

0:27:170:27:20

But erratic winter weather caused the crust to melt and then refreeze,

0:27:220:27:27

making it impenetrable for the owls.

0:27:270:27:29

And if they can't hunt, great grey owls won't nest or lay eggs.

0:27:340:27:39

Now it's spring,

0:27:450:27:46

Jeff has been searching for owl chicks in the Beartooth Mountains.

0:27:460:27:50

The forest here is 300 years old

0:27:500:27:53

and ideal habitat for great grey owls.

0:27:530:27:56

-There they are, three of 'em.

-Oh, wow!

0:28:010:28:03

OWL SCREECHES

0:28:040:28:06

Oh, my goodness.

0:28:080:28:10

The smaller one, she's the runt.

0:28:130:28:16

Despite the difficulties of winter, we found a nest with three chicks.

0:28:160:28:21

This is extremely unusual.

0:28:210:28:23

When food is scarce, the smallest chick can be eaten by its siblings,

0:28:240:28:28

but this runt is still alive.

0:28:280:28:30

How much of a success is it

0:28:310:28:34

that we've got three great grey owl chicks here?

0:28:340:28:37

In these parts here, this neck of the woods,

0:28:370:28:40

-it's about a 20% success rate for the third chick.

-Mm.

0:28:400:28:44

So most, you know,

0:28:440:28:46

four out of five perish by this... by this time.

0:28:460:28:49

So we've got some great parents here?

0:28:510:28:53

Yeah, the reason is our winters have been quite mild,

0:28:530:28:57

so the rodents, the prey, has really benefited

0:28:570:28:59

and their populations have really grown,

0:28:590:29:01

which of course then benefits the owls.

0:29:010:29:04

And that could be making the difference

0:29:040:29:06

on whether that third chick survives or not.

0:29:060:29:08

The early thaw this year has turned the owls' fortunes around.

0:29:090:29:13

The milder weather has led to a boom in rodent numbers.

0:29:130:29:17

To reveal how this has been helping the owls,

0:29:200:29:23

Jeff has been searching for their pellets.

0:29:230:29:27

Yeah, I've got a pellet here I collected this morning.

0:29:280:29:31

And, look, you'll see the size of this...

0:29:310:29:33

-It's kind of...

-PATRICK LAUGHS

0:29:330:29:35

It's kind of disgusting.

0:29:350:29:36

OK, well, if I just break this apart...

0:29:360:29:39

Well, you can see, it is literally just...

0:29:390:29:42

..hair and bone.

0:29:430:29:46

Yeah.

0:29:460:29:47

-GASPING:

-Look at that!

0:29:480:29:52

That is an entire skull.

0:29:520:29:55

-Look at that, you can even see the teeth!

-Mm-hm.

0:29:550:29:57

Oh! Here we go, look, look, look, look!

0:29:570:29:59

-There you go.

-Oh, that is brilliant.

0:29:590:30:02

Yeah.

0:30:020:30:03

A second skull,

0:30:030:30:05

which means they would have had two meals in quick succession.

0:30:050:30:08

So far, the owls are doing well,

0:30:090:30:11

but spring in Yellowstone is unpredictable.

0:30:110:30:15

After I leave, the weather takes a turn for the worse.

0:30:170:30:21

A storm blows in.

0:30:210:30:23

It could mean death for the chicks.

0:30:230:30:25

This rain makes...makes it a little more difficult for me...

0:30:250:30:29

to work in, but...

0:30:290:30:31

..it makes it even more difficult for the adult owls to hunt,

0:30:320:30:36

being that it's just so noisy,

0:30:360:30:38

and that masks any sounds that the rodents may be making.

0:30:380:30:42

The runt is at the bottom of the pecking order.

0:30:420:30:45

As soon as food becomes scarce, she'll be the first to lose out.

0:30:450:30:49

If the weather doesn't change, the runt may starve.

0:30:490:30:54

THUNDER RUMBLES

0:30:540:30:56

May is always the wettest month of the year in Yellowstone.

0:31:040:31:08

But this year, it's far wetter than average.

0:31:080:31:12

The reason can be found in the Pacific.

0:31:150:31:18

The warming ocean creates much more moisture in the air.

0:31:180:31:22

This is channelled directly up to Yellowstone.

0:31:230:31:27

And when it hits the wall of mountains,

0:31:270:31:29

the fury of the monsoon is unleashed.

0:31:290:31:32

THUNDER RUMBLES

0:31:320:31:34

We experience the most violent storm that's been seen here

0:31:380:31:42

for many years.

0:31:420:31:43

Rain falling over three mountain ranges

0:31:440:31:47

drains straight into the Yellowstone basin.

0:31:470:31:51

Overnight, water levels rise by a foot.

0:31:510:31:54

For two weeks,

0:31:570:31:58

rain pours down and thunderstorms reverberate around the mountains.

0:31:580:32:03

Then, at last, in early June...

0:32:040:32:07

..the weather breaks.

0:32:090:32:11

But there's water everywhere.

0:32:130:32:15

Melting snow, as well as rainwater,

0:32:170:32:19

is now flowing into the river systems.

0:32:190:32:22

Scientists have told me to come to Yellowstone Falls

0:32:260:32:30

to see the full effect.

0:32:300:32:32

Back in March, Yellowstone Falls was just a mere trickle,

0:32:530:32:56

and now it's a dramatic torrent of tumbling water.

0:32:560:33:00

Every year the thaw is different

0:33:050:33:07

and it's the rivers that hold the clues

0:33:070:33:10

to tell us how this year's thaw is progressing.

0:33:100:33:14

Thousands of animals rely on this river to survive.

0:33:270:33:30

Greater Yellowstone sits on the Continental Divide.

0:33:320:33:36

This water flows west to the Pacific Ocean and east to the Atlantic.

0:33:360:33:41

Without this huge reservoir of water,

0:33:420:33:45

agriculture and industry, as well as wildlife in the American West,

0:33:450:33:50

would die.

0:33:500:33:52

So understanding how MUCH water is draining into the river systems

0:33:520:33:56

is vital.

0:33:560:33:58

Teams of scientists

0:33:580:33:59

have monitored the streamflow in Yellowstone's rivers

0:33:590:34:02

for the last 86 years.

0:34:020:34:05

They've noticed that recently the pattern of the spring runoff

0:34:050:34:08

has been changing.

0:34:080:34:10

This piece of equipment measures streamflow.

0:34:110:34:14

Hydrologist Cheryl Miller is keeping a close eye on the rising water

0:34:170:34:21

in the Yellowstone River.

0:34:210:34:23

The data she gathers will reveal how big the spring runoff will be.

0:34:230:34:28

It's all done with this little orange boat

0:34:300:34:32

that uses sonar to measure the depth and speed of the water.

0:34:320:34:37

Combine those and you get the flow, and that's the key figure.

0:34:370:34:41

The rain has already raised the water levels,

0:34:420:34:46

but it's the thousands of tonnes of snow still in the mountains

0:34:460:34:50

that will make the real difference.

0:34:500:34:53

-OK, I've got it.

-All right.

0:34:530:34:55

So, if you do get a very sharp rise in temperature,

0:34:560:35:00

if that snow pattern melts very quickly...

0:35:000:35:02

And, I mean, you know, I've been in that snow pattern,

0:35:020:35:04

the snow was above my head.

0:35:040:35:06

Presumably, if that DOES melt very quickly,

0:35:060:35:09

the results downstream must be potentially quite dramatic,

0:35:090:35:14

quite-quite destructive.

0:35:140:35:16

Indeed. High energy floods can make great changes along the river.

0:35:160:35:20

What's happening now is the days are warm, but that more importantly,

0:35:200:35:23

the nights are warmer,

0:35:230:35:25

and so that snow pack never refreezes at night.

0:35:250:35:27

It continues to slowly melt during the night

0:35:270:35:30

and so that's what allows the snowmelt and the runoff

0:35:300:35:32

-to accelerate during this time of year.

-Yeah.

0:35:320:35:34

Just looking at the river,

0:35:360:35:37

does it appear that the flow is faster now than it was

0:35:370:35:41

when you last collected data?

0:35:410:35:42

It is, it has come up in the last three or four days that it's...

0:35:420:35:45

It may not be a lot faster, but the volume is definitely bigger,

0:35:450:35:48

there's more streamflow than there was just a few days ago.

0:35:480:35:51

Cheryl's data reveals this year the melting snow

0:35:540:35:57

is coming off the mountains more quickly than usual.

0:35:570:36:01

The faster it runs off, the less water is absorbed into the ground.

0:36:030:36:08

These rapid spring melts are more likely to cause flash floods.

0:36:100:36:15

Patrick's finding out how that's affecting the beavers.

0:36:150:36:19

Here in the Snake River Valley,

0:36:250:36:28

all the meltwater from the Tetons is running down the mountains

0:36:280:36:31

and it's headed directly for our beaver dam.

0:36:310:36:34

'I'm meeting up with cameraman Charlie Hamilton James.'

0:36:350:36:39

-Hey, Charlie.

-Hey, Patrick.

0:36:400:36:41

-How's it going, man?

-Yeah, it's good. Lovely weather, isn't it?

0:36:410:36:44

'He's spent the last week

0:36:440:36:46

'watching the beavers struggle with the rising river.'

0:36:460:36:48

The water level is so much higher

0:36:530:36:56

compared to the last time I was here.

0:36:560:36:59

Yeah, actually, really only in the last few days.

0:36:590:37:01

-There was a lot of rain.

-All of that water has resulted in this?

0:37:010:37:05

Yeah, and what it's done,

0:37:050:37:06

-it's actually starting to flood the dam.

-Mm.

0:37:060:37:09

In some places, the dam has already breached.

0:37:090:37:13

The beavers are working nonstop to make sure all the leaks are plugged.

0:37:140:37:18

They built this dam five years ago and every year they fortify it.

0:37:210:37:26

This one's been strengthened with a particularly high number of stones.

0:37:280:37:31

So what makes this spot prime habitat?

0:37:340:37:37

Well, actually, weirdly, beavers have made this spot.

0:37:370:37:39

This actually started life as a stream

0:37:390:37:42

and it's the beavers that came along and stuck these dams in it

0:37:420:37:45

and blocked its path and created these long, slow ponds,

0:37:450:37:50

and when you create a pond, you create another pond,

0:37:500:37:52

you create another pond... You create a wetland ecosystem.

0:37:520:37:55

They're basically engineers, but they're also gardeners.

0:37:550:37:58

I like that, gardeners.

0:37:580:37:59

So they're creating this whole environment that suits THEM.

0:37:590:38:02

But it's not just them that benefit from this, right?

0:38:020:38:04

-You've got amphibians, other mammals...

-Oh, absolutely.

0:38:040:38:07

..birds that rely on this.

0:38:070:38:08

I mean, just sitting here now, there's birds everywhere.

0:38:080:38:11

You know, swallows flying round,

0:38:110:38:12

drinking and catching flies off the surface.

0:38:120:38:15

There's kingfishers eating fish.

0:38:150:38:16

There's lots of minnows here,

0:38:160:38:18

lots of small fish perfect for kingfishers.

0:38:180:38:19

Otters come through here, ospreys, eagles...

0:38:190:38:22

So, you know, they're ecosystem builders, is what they are, beavers

0:38:220:38:26

and more so, really, than any other animal.

0:38:260:38:28

If the main dam is knocked out,

0:38:310:38:33

it's not just the beavers that will lose their home.

0:38:330:38:36

The top is just about holding.

0:38:390:38:41

But Charlie and I are heading underwater

0:38:410:38:44

to find out how solid the base is.

0:38:440:38:46

Just where my feet are now, it actually starts here.

0:38:550:38:57

These... The foundations have been laid here.

0:38:570:39:00

So, you know, it's like ten foot wide.

0:39:000:39:02

You can't see it all cos, you know, most of it's underwater.

0:39:020:39:05

We've got these drysuits on.

0:39:050:39:07

Yeah, and really, Patrick, in the spirit of full immersion...

0:39:070:39:10

..we should go in and actually have a look.

0:39:120:39:14

-Is this where I find out I've got the dud suit?

-Yeah.

0:39:140:39:16

Actually, this is so much better than I thought it would be.

0:39:200:39:23

This is awesome!

0:39:230:39:24

It's much clearer than I thought, you can really see it.

0:39:240:39:27

It's only when you get underwater that you see the skill

0:39:280:39:32

that's gone into building this dam.

0:39:320:39:34

The beavers choose logs up to two metres long...

0:39:370:39:40

..and place them at an angle of 30 degrees to hold back the water.

0:39:420:39:46

This is precision engineering.

0:39:460:39:49

This is amazing, isn't it?

0:39:540:39:55

It's so impressive.

0:39:550:39:56

This is, you know, it's-it's kind of a work of art.

0:39:560:39:59

But the beavers' hard work may not be enough.

0:40:020:40:05

If the river rises any further, the water could break through.

0:40:050:40:10

And this watery world might just disappear.

0:40:100:40:13

It's getting cold now, innit?

0:40:160:40:18

THEY CHATTER

0:40:180:40:21

It's now mid-June and temperatures reach 28 degrees...

0:40:240:40:29

Seven degrees above average

0:40:310:40:34

for this time of year.

0:40:340:40:35

The snow recedes halfway up the mountains...

0:40:430:40:46

revealing the highest feeding grounds in Greater Yellowstone.

0:40:460:40:51

And close behind are all the animals

0:40:510:40:53

taking advantage of the final stage of this year's spring green-up.

0:40:530:40:58

At 2,500 metres,

0:41:060:41:08

this vast wilderness provides food for thousands of animals.

0:41:080:41:13

Elk that overwintered down in the valleys,

0:41:150:41:17

finally arrive back in these high pastures,

0:41:170:41:21

where they'll raise their calves.

0:41:210:41:22

These meadows are a feasting ground, full to the brim with wildlife...

0:41:270:41:32

the hunters as well as the hunted.

0:41:320:41:35

Opportunistic black bears take advantage of a low bird's nest

0:41:440:41:48

and defenceless chicks.

0:41:480:41:51

At this time of year, any food is fair game.

0:41:510:41:55

The grizzly bears are also joining the feeding frenzy.

0:41:570:42:01

I'm catching up with Casey,

0:42:010:42:03

who's following the fortunes of one young bear family.

0:42:030:42:08

These newborn cubs are only four months old.

0:42:080:42:11

With nowhere to hide from predators,

0:42:120:42:14

this meadow is a dangerous place for baby bears.

0:42:140:42:17

But their mother has no choice.

0:42:180:42:20

She's following the melting snow to make sure that both she and her cubs

0:42:220:42:27

get enough protein from the new growth.

0:42:270:42:30

-CASEY CHUCKLES

-Aw, they're so cute!

0:42:330:42:35

So small.

0:42:360:42:38

So, you know this bear?

0:42:410:42:42

Yeah, you can count on her like clockwork.

0:42:420:42:44

Everything that a little cub needs to learn to survive its lifetime,

0:42:440:42:50

they're learning in these first few years with its mother.

0:42:500:42:52

Like where to go, what time of the year, how to dig the roots.

0:42:520:42:55

They're learning all of that right now.

0:42:550:42:57

This one here, you know, the year after year that I've watched her,

0:42:570:43:00

she usually keeps almost all of her cubs.

0:43:000:43:02

She's a great mother.

0:43:020:43:03

In the ten years that Casey's been following this female,

0:43:030:43:07

he's also seen her teach her offspring a more gruesome skill.

0:43:070:43:11

She's a known predator.

0:43:120:43:14

During this time of year,

0:43:140:43:15

she'll actually go around looking for elk calves that were just born,

0:43:150:43:19

that are stashed out here in the sagebrush

0:43:190:43:21

and these little cubs will be in tow, and they'll be watching.

0:43:210:43:23

So it's a very learned behaviour

0:43:230:43:25

and some bears, right in the same area, don't hunt elk calves at all,

0:43:250:43:28

cos their mother didn't teach 'em.

0:43:280:43:30

They didn't get the chance to learn this.

0:43:300:43:32

These little guys are going to learn that

0:43:320:43:34

and I'll tell you, at this time of year,

0:43:340:43:35

-that protein for these little bear cubs is essential...

-Mm-hm.

0:43:350:43:38

..and that may just be the thing

0:43:380:43:40

that gives them the advantage to be strong bears.

0:43:400:43:43

But of all the survival skills they'll need to learn,

0:43:430:43:46

the most important is how to spot danger.

0:43:460:43:49

Now, we've got Mum in the middle of this sagebrush

0:43:510:43:55

and these little cubs bobbing their head up and down.

0:43:550:43:58

Surely, you know, this is, this is a dangerous time for them as well.

0:43:580:44:03

How difficult is it, you know, to be a newborn grizzly bear cub?

0:44:030:44:08

Very difficult. Stats say about 50% of bear cubs in their first year,

0:44:080:44:13

they don't make it.

0:44:130:44:14

And there are so many things out there that are trying to kill them.

0:44:140:44:18

A male grizzly's one of them.

0:44:190:44:20

You know, a male grizzly knows that

0:44:200:44:22

she won't mate as long as she has cubs.

0:44:220:44:24

If he comes in there and he can eliminate those cubs,

0:44:240:44:26

then she will come into oestrus and she will mate.

0:44:260:44:29

So... Big male bears - big danger for these guys.

0:44:290:44:33

Male grizzlies are known to roam this area,

0:44:350:44:39

so their mother must stay on high alert.

0:44:390:44:41

And what's that scar on her head?

0:44:440:44:46

It looks like she's got some sort of scar.

0:44:460:44:48

Yeah, it's new for her,

0:44:480:44:50

so I'm assuming now that she's got these little cubs,

0:44:500:44:53

that scar is probably from protecting them against a big male.

0:44:530:44:56

And when it comes to that defence, these females, they don't care.

0:44:560:45:01

They're going to go against the biggest male grizzly

0:45:010:45:04

and it looks like she probably protected her cubs,

0:45:040:45:06

but came away with a pretty big scar.

0:45:060:45:08

Oh, she's nursing right now.

0:45:100:45:12

She's laying on her back.

0:45:120:45:14

-Oh, yeah...

-Yeah, they're just going to get in there,

0:45:140:45:16

they're going to relax.

0:45:160:45:17

Nothing better for a little cub than that right there,

0:45:170:45:20

but Mum... she still has to pay attention.

0:45:200:45:22

And you can see, she'll just keep picking her head up and watching,

0:45:220:45:25

looking for danger.

0:45:250:45:26

There's a good chance these two little dudes will grow up to be adult bears.

0:45:260:45:29

And she's... She's a rock star mum, for sure.

0:45:300:45:33

Bears spend the heat of the day

0:45:340:45:36

bedded down in the shade of the forest.

0:45:360:45:38

But before this mother takes her cubs back to the woods,

0:45:380:45:41

she has one more trick to teach them -

0:45:410:45:44

how to keep cool in the hot sun.

0:45:440:45:46

These little patches of snow

0:45:480:45:49

that are left from the snowdrifts in the winter

0:45:490:45:51

are everything for these bears,

0:45:510:45:53

cos it's really their AC unit, cos the hotter it gets...

0:45:530:45:56

They really seek out these snowfields

0:45:560:45:58

just to go and lay their bellies on and cool down.

0:45:580:46:01

CASEY LAUGHS

0:46:090:46:11

That's the best thing, they're so playful, so full of energy, just...

0:46:110:46:14

They'll roll around like that for hours.

0:46:150:46:17

You know, they're using that snow like a slip and slide,

0:46:200:46:24

just like kids playing on toboggans and sleds.

0:46:240:46:27

They're starting to learn how to use their claws and their paws

0:46:270:46:30

and get their balance.

0:46:300:46:31

If you look around out here, I mean, this is a pretty rugged terrain,

0:46:310:46:34

so they'd better get their feet underneath them pretty quick.

0:46:340:46:38

I really believe that they like to have fun, just like any kid.

0:46:380:46:42

But these snowy playgrounds will soon disappear

0:46:440:46:48

as temperatures are now climbing every day.

0:46:480:46:51

In late June, we hit 30 degrees.

0:46:540:46:57

The snowpack is collapsing.

0:46:590:47:01

The great Yellowstone thaw reaches its peak.

0:47:070:47:11

Thousands of tonnes of meltwater cascade through the canyons...

0:47:240:47:29

..bulldozing everything in their path

0:47:300:47:33

and crashes on into the valleys.

0:47:330:47:36

Over 250 cubic metres of water

0:47:410:47:44

is passing through the river per second.

0:47:440:47:47

This meltwater is vital for the regeneration of the land.

0:47:540:47:59

But it comes at a cost.

0:48:040:48:06

Despite the floodwater,

0:48:090:48:10

Yellowstone's residents have to continue

0:48:100:48:13

their daily quest to find food.

0:48:130:48:15

Biologists have just told us that a herd of bison

0:48:160:48:19

is attempting a river crossing not far from Yellowstone Falls.

0:48:190:48:24

BISON GROWLS

0:48:240:48:26

Our camera team arrives

0:48:260:48:28

to find a two-month-old bison calf already struggling.

0:48:280:48:32

It's been swept away from its mother.

0:48:430:48:45

BISON BLEATS

0:48:470:48:49

Without her body to shield it,

0:48:510:48:53

the calf is pounded by the full force of the current.

0:48:530:48:57

The other females have their own young to protect.

0:49:040:49:07

This one is on its own.

0:49:070:49:10

And it's losing energy fast.

0:49:120:49:14

BISON GRUNTS

0:49:140:49:16

But the exhausted calf makes it safely

0:49:330:49:36

to the new pastures on the other side.

0:49:360:49:39

This one is lucky.

0:49:410:49:43

And further south, the Snake River is also running high.

0:49:480:49:52

There's so much floodwater that one of the beavers' dams has burst.

0:49:520:49:57

Yeah, this is up, isn't it?

0:49:580:50:00

Look at that. I mean, it's just... It's just blown out, hasn't it?

0:50:000:50:03

Wow. Yeah, that is completely busted.

0:50:030:50:06

-Yeah.

-You know, that water's flow...

0:50:060:50:08

And it's a lot faster as well.

0:50:080:50:09

Do you know what? You're not going to stop this.

0:50:090:50:11

The river's got to come down here, hasn't it?

0:50:110:50:13

It'll either bust through the dam or it'll go over the top of the dam, or it'll go around the dam.

0:50:130:50:17

-Yeah.

-And this dam just obviously wasn't quite strong enough, it's just bust through it.

0:50:170:50:21

And, you know, when this dam busts, it can take out the next dam.

0:50:210:50:24

-You know? It's a kind of domino effect.

-Right.

0:50:240:50:26

Oh, yeah. I mean, it's just...

0:50:260:50:28

That is strong. So there's no way this can...

0:50:280:50:31

you know, a pile of sticks is going to stop this.

0:50:310:50:33

Are they even going to bother to fix that bit?

0:50:330:50:36

No, I don't think they will because...

0:50:360:50:39

Well, actually, you know, it'd be impossible to fix it.

0:50:390:50:41

-Yeah.

-They're going to... I reckon they'll wait and in a month maybe

0:50:410:50:45

or more, until the water goes right back down to pre-flood level,

0:50:450:50:49

then they'll build it back up.

0:50:490:50:51

You know, it doesn't look like much when you look upstream,

0:50:510:50:54

but right here,

0:50:540:50:56

all this water is pushing up against my body and there's so much force,

0:50:560:50:59

and that's what the dam is having to contend with,

0:50:590:51:02

that's what it's trying to hold back.

0:51:020:51:04

If this dam has bust...

0:51:050:51:07

..what's happened to the beavers?

0:51:080:51:10

The beavers are busier than ever.

0:51:270:51:30

The water is flowing right over the top of their dam.

0:51:300:51:33

But at the moment, it's still holding.

0:51:330:51:36

They won't be able to fix it until the water levels fall.

0:51:360:51:40

Inside the lodge, all the old bedding is pushed into the water.

0:51:510:51:56

They leave it to soak for a while...

0:51:580:52:00

and when it's clean, they drag it back in...

0:52:000:52:04

giving them fresh new bedding for the summer.

0:52:040:52:07

With temperatures now reaching 30 degrees,

0:52:130:52:16

the owl chicks are struggling.

0:52:160:52:18

One has already left the nest.

0:52:190:52:21

These are birds that thrive in colder temperatures,

0:52:220:52:26

but their nest is now exposed to the full force of the sun.

0:52:260:52:30

Great grey owls struggle to lose heat,

0:52:330:52:36

so the remaining two chicks must leave the nest

0:52:360:52:39

as quickly as they can.

0:52:390:52:40

The second chick is getting up on the lip,

0:52:440:52:47

on the highest point of the nest and just flaps like crazy.

0:52:470:52:51

He's looking over the edge

0:52:510:52:53

and this is what they do before they jump.

0:52:530:52:56

But the chicks are vulnerable.

0:52:570:52:58

Their wings aren't strong enough to fly.

0:52:590:53:02

When they jump, they'll plummet ten metres to the forest floor.

0:53:020:53:08

Oh, he's going to go, he's going to go! Jump, jump!

0:53:090:53:12

Go, go, go, go! Oh!

0:53:140:53:16

He's leaning way over on the other edge.

0:53:160:53:20

He could go any second.

0:53:200:53:21

It's the riskiest moment of this owl's life.

0:53:240:53:28

It's not the most graceful maiden flight,

0:53:360:53:39

but it's success nonetheless.

0:53:390:53:41

He's hanging upside down!

0:53:410:53:44

Got it all messed up.

0:53:450:53:46

Oh, he is struggling.

0:53:460:53:48

He's hanging by one talon.

0:53:490:53:51

There he goes!

0:53:530:53:55

It's one thing to launch, it's another thing to land.

0:53:590:54:03

The chick lands safely,

0:54:050:54:07

but it must head straight back up into the tree tops,

0:54:070:54:10

away from predators on the forest floor.

0:54:100:54:13

With Yellowstone's climate getting warmer each year,

0:54:160:54:19

these owls may not be able to live here for much longer.

0:54:190:54:23

Summer temperatures are becoming too hot.

0:54:280:54:31

She doesn't know what to do or where to go.

0:54:360:54:39

The runt is now in danger.

0:54:400:54:43

She's being struck directly by the intense heat of the sun.

0:54:440:54:48

In these conditions,

0:54:500:54:51

great grey owls struggle to regulate their body temperature.

0:54:510:54:54

Panting helps her to cool down.

0:55:040:55:06

But her downy feathers, which are so efficient in cold weather,

0:55:070:55:11

may prove fatal.

0:55:110:55:13

CHICK CHIRPS

0:55:180:55:19

Our little girl's up again.

0:55:200:55:22

Finally, but...

0:55:230:55:25

She's hot too. She... She wants out of there. I can tell.

0:55:260:55:30

This is a leap of faith she has GOT to make.

0:55:300:55:34

She's back on the launch pad.

0:55:390:55:40

This is where I think she's going to go.

0:55:400:55:42

She's...

0:55:460:55:47

She launched! She launched!

0:55:590:56:02

CHICK CHIRPS

0:56:040:56:06

So this forest is now home to three more great grey owls.

0:56:090:56:14

I'm impressed. I'm proud of this little girl.

0:56:150:56:18

You know, maybe one day she's going to just come back here

0:56:180:56:22

and raise a great grey owl family of her own.

0:56:220:56:26

As the longest day of the year approaches, spring becomes summer.

0:56:400:56:45

The animals we've followed

0:56:460:56:48

have made it through Yellowstone's most challenging season.

0:56:480:56:51

This year, the thaw started three weeks earlier than usual.

0:56:530:56:57

An area of 30,000 square miles has been transformed...

0:57:000:57:05

..and the mountains have released over a million tonnes of water.

0:57:080:57:12

And finally, from top to bottom, Yellowstone is free of snow.

0:57:140:57:20

Now our animal families face the new challenge of summer,

0:57:210:57:25

when temperatures can soar and vegetation wither.

0:57:250:57:28

And that leads to a new threat -

0:57:290:57:31

wildfires.

0:57:310:57:33

Tomorrow night, we bring you summer,

0:57:390:57:41

when soaring temperatures force the animals of Yellowstone

0:57:410:57:45

to change their behaviour.

0:57:450:57:47

Bears enter cowboy country as they search for food.

0:57:480:57:52

The wolves display unusual hunting strategies

0:57:530:57:57

to keep their 11 pups alive.

0:57:570:57:59

And the beavers flee from their lodge

0:58:020:58:04

in a dramatic twist to life in this changing environment.

0:58:040:58:08

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