Milwaukee to Racine, Wisconsin Great American Railroad Journeys


Milwaukee to Racine, Wisconsin

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I have crossed the Atlantic to ride the railroads of North America

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with my reliable Appleton's guide.

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Published in the late 19th century,

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my Appleton's general guide to North America will direct me

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to all that's novel, beautiful,

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memorable and striking in the United States.

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THEY SHOUT

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As I journey across this vast continent,

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I'll discover how pioneers and cowboys conquered the West

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and how the railroads tied this nation together,

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helping to create the global superstate of today.

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My rail journey across America's Midwest

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has brought me to Lake Michigan.

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At the time of my Appleton's guide,

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the United States was at the forefront of a global second Industrial Revolution

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featuring steel, chemicals and heavy engineering.

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Railroads and steamships tied the markets of the world together.

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The cities of the Great Lakes supplied the ingredients for success -

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a transport hub, innovation and manual labour.

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I started my journey in Minnesota, in the Twin Cities, and travelled

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alongside the Mississippi River

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before crossing into Wisconsin at La Crosse.

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Now I'm bound for the shores of Lake Michigan at Milwaukee,

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from where I'll turn south to the Windy City, Chicago,

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before travelling the length of Illinois, calling at Centralia.

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I'll then rejoin the Mississippi

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before ending in Memphis, Tennessee.

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This time, I'm making my way east to explore Wisconsin's largest city -

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Milwaukee.

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From here, I'll head south, 30 miles along the shores of Lake Michigan,

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ending my journey in Racine.

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I taste the freedom of the American open road...

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Ready to ride? I'm ready to ride.

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..I'm bowled over by Milwaukee's charms...

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CHEERING

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..and learn how innovation delivered a fuel injection...

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And a little bit of gas.

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..to 19th-century farming.

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By the time of my Appleton's,

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the railways had already helped to establish communities in the Midwest.

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Now these communities were transforming America.

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My first stop will be Milwaukee, which Appleton's tells me

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is the commercial capital of Wisconsin and next to Chicago,

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the largest city in the Northwest,

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situated on the west shore of the lake at the mouth of the Milwaukee River.

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As railroads linked up with waterways,

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technology supplied jobs for this city of motivated immigrants.

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MAN OVER PA: The entire crew would like to thank you all very much

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for travelling with us.

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Your final stop - downtown Milwaukee.

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The railroad first reached Milwaukee in 1851.

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I enjoyed the ride, thank you so much.

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Thank you. Bye-bye. Bye.

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But my Appleton's reminds readers that this city

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is also the best harbour

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on the south or west shore of Lake Michigan,

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the third largest of America's Great Lakes.

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There is no hope of seeing across Lake Michigan

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to the opposite shore - it is far too vast.

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To Europeans like me, these Great Lakes seem like seas

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and they are an important part of the making of America.

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These enormous bodies of water, joined together,

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enabled people and goods to travel vast distances through them in

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the days before the railroads.

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The Milwaukee that greeted the Appleton's traveller

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had a distinctive appearance.

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Apparently, the peculiar cream colour of the Milwaukee brick gives

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the city a unique and pretty appearance

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and has earned for it the name the Cream City of the Lakes.

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Despite Milwaukee's genteel architecture,

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at the time of my guidebook, it was a proudly blue-collar city.

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Appleton's tells me that manufactures here are extensive

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and embraced pig iron, iron castings, machinery and wheels.

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Give me a pair of wheels!

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A few decades after my guidebook was published,

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Milwaukee's mechanical ingenuity gave birth to an American icon.

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The motorcycle manufacturer Harley-Davidson was founded here

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and remains a symbol of the United States' freewheeling,

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pioneer spirit.

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Hello, Bill. Hello, Michael.

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How are you? What a wonderful machine!

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Thank you so much.

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So, you are Bill Davidson, as in Harley-Davidson.

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What's the connection?

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Well, my great-grandfather was one of the original founders of the company,

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William A Davidson was his name, and we are literally within...

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several yards of where that original factory shed was,

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and that was in the back yard of my great-great-grandparents.

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Did motorbikes exist when Harley and Davidson got going?

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Yes. There were motorcycles.

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In the late 1800s, there was actually a steam-powered motorcycle.

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Quite a contraption.

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There were a lot of different people working in this arena of

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trying to develop a motorcycle.

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Childhood friends William S Harley and Arthur Davidson

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dreamed of building a winning design.

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They enlisted the help of Arthur's older brothers,

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who had experience in Milwaukee's railroad workshops.

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And, in 1903, they rolled serial number one out of that shed.

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Given that there was so much competition,

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how did Harley and Davidson get their break, do you think?

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Very early on, they created a unique look,

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the unique sound and they created a unique feel.

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You know, it's a magnet, it pulls you in.

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When you see a Harley, people actually say,

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even if they don't ride,

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they will say, "Nice Harley!"

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I wonder if it's something to do with the shape of your continent.

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It is vast.

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Is that part of it? It's the invitation to the Easy Rider.

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You know, it might be that Wild West feeling,

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that little bit of rebel in all of us, right?

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Bill, happy riding to you.

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Thank you so much. It was a pleasure.

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Today, there are plenty of magnificent machines on display

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at one of Milwaukee's regular biker gatherings.

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Hello, ma'am. Hi, sir. Would you mind switching on the engine for me?

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Let me hear the sound of your bike.

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ENGINE TURNS ON

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I can't hear it!

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ENGINE ROARS

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I heard it.

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Thank you very much.

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Where do you ride your bike to?

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Actually, I came from Saudi Arabia.

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No! Yeah.

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Do you feel a companionship with other Harley riders?

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Yeah, sure. Why?

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Because we are a biker relationship between ourselves.

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Biker is always brotherhood, you can't buy it.

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Enjoy your biking. Thank you.

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Hey! I love them pants you've got on! Oh!

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You're so sweet.

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How nice to see you.

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I'd get away with those pants. I like that.

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And who's this you've got on the back here? This is my mini me.

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Your mini me? Yeah, she has travelled the 48 states with me.

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You've been through 48 states? In 27 days.

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So, tell me, what's it all about? You feel free.

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It is like a therapy for me.

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The moment I got on the bike, it was like, whoa!

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You know?

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It's just... It's therapeutic, truly.

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Have...? Do you ride motorcycles? I can ride you here.

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You could? I could. So, you know what it is to ride on this seat?

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Do you know what it's called?

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Pillion? No, it's called riding bitch.

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So, you'll be riding as my bitch!

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It's a privilege.

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That's right, it's definitely a privilege!

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You'll be pleased to hear that I don't have to leather up.

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Ready to ride? I'm ready to ride. OK.

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I have joined a brotherhood and a sisterhood of people

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linked by their choice of motorbike.

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Back in 1879,

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Milwaukee was one of the powerhouses of America's Industrial Revolution.

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It was the plentiful immigrant workforce that enabled the United States

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to lead the world in manufacturing.

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As my guidebook tells me,

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Milwaukee's population growth has been very rapid and,

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in this downtown district, there is evidence of one group of newcomers.

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Appleton's tells me that Germans constitute nearly half the population.

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Their influence is everywhere - breweries, beer saloons, gast haus,

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music halls and restaurants.

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One hears German spoken as often as English,

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but what ideas did they bring?

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I'm making my way to Turner Hall,

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which was a focal point for Milwaukee's 19th-century German community.

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History professor Aims McGuinness

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has been a so-called Turner for eight years.

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It's great to be here. It's an...intriguingly historic building.

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I mean, for example, what's that?

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This is a monument to members of the Turners who died fighting for

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the union during the Civil War in the United States.

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The centrepiece of this beautiful building is its imposing ballroom.

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Aims, there is a wonderful faded grandeur to the hall.

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What have been its uses over the years?

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This was a place to have political debates, to read books,

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to listen to a lecture, to listen to Beethoven

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and also to hoist a beer and to build your muscular strength.

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All those things went together for the Turners and, for us, they still do.

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What was the origin of the Turners?

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The Turners originated in Prussia,

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in what's now Germany, in the early 1800s.

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The founding principles were

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the notions of a sound mind and sound body.

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Founder Friedrich Ludwig Jahn

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named his movement after the physical exercises

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he devised that he called Turnen.

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Today, this word still means gymnastics in German,

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but Turnerism went far beyond sport.

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In order to become a Turner,

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one must commit oneself to the cause of liberty

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and to oppose tyranny in all its forms.

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In Europe, the principal form of tyranny

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to which they imposed themselves was monarchy.

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When they came to the United States,

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it was the institution of slavery that they opposed.

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Many Turners fled Prussia for America

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after participating in a failed revolution in 1848.

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Soon, Turners defended their new nation's founding principle

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of liberty with their lives, marching into battle

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with the Union Army in the American Civil War.

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Do you think then that the Civil War monument that we just saw

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had a real significance in demonstrating their patriotism?

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Oh, I think absolutely.

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In some ways, a monument created in the early 20th century in German

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commemorating people who had sacrificed their lives for freedom

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in the United States wasn't so much a provocation, and the message is,

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"Look, one does not need to speak English at all times in order to be a patriotic American,

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"one can speak German as well."

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And who will tell these people that they are not fully patriotic?

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They've sacrificed their lives for the nation.

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German influence on the modern United States

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was suppressed during two world wars,

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but the principle of sound body, sound mind lives on here.

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Stretch your legs as far as you can.

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Try and reach your ankles.

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What?!

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How do you do that? Well, I'm a woman.

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I can only hope that my tight hamstrings

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aren't a sign of an inflexible intellect

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as I join the weekly Ladies Auxiliary exercise class

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under the guidance of Nora.

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Arms over your head.

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Up.

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MICHAEL GROANS

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Try to keep your elbows straight.

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MICHAEL GROANS

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Bend...and down.

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These ladies are giving me an enormous work-out.

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OK. Now get up any way you can.

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Whoo!

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In the 1880s, Milwaukee was known as the nation's watering hole.

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German immigrants brought with them a taste for beer

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and my Appleton's tells me the breweries are large and numerous.

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Pints of Pilsner were the perfect accompaniment to another German gift to Milwaukee - bowling.

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I'm calling in at Holler House bowling alley,

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one of the oldest in the country,

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run for the past 62 years by the redoubtable Marcy.

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Hello! Hi.

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Marcy, do you serve beer here?

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Do I serve beer? Yeah.

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Well, what the hell do you think I'm here for? Exactly!

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Could I have a Milwaukee beer, please?

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Sure. There you go.

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You bowl? I used to.

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I bowled until I was 70 years old, but now I'm 90.

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You are 90? Yeah.

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Wow! Are you going to show me the basics of how to bowl?

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I show you how to bowl? Yeah, sure. Sure, what the hell?

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American ten-pin bowling evolved from traditional European skittles.

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What kind of fingers have you got?

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Erm...stubby ones. This should fit you.

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OK. OK.

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Like that, yeah? Now what?

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Now, see that middle arrow?

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Yeah. Throw it towards that one.

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Do it for the team, Mike!

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CHEERS OF ENCOURAGEMENT

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Whoa!

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The pin boy here is human, not mechanical.

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CHEERING

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CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

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Hello.

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19th-century Milwaukee might seem to have been a macho kind of place,

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but it wasn't all beer,

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bowling and bikers at the time of my Appleton's guide.

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While I'm in the city,

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I want to look into a small appliance

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that altered forever both the office and the home -

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a certain inventive Milwaukee type was key to the development.

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I've come to the Milwaukee Public Museum to track down

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the history of the typewriter.

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In street scenes that would have been familiar to an Appleton's traveller,

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I'm meeting curator Al Muchka.

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Very good to see you. Good to see you, too.

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Why is Milwaukee important in the development of the typewriter?

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Well, Milwaukee is important because of Christopher Latham Sholes.

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He was one of our local residents, he was an inventor, a newspaperman,

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and he was working on an addressing device for his newspapers,

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first by looking at how to transmit the action

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of the finger to a letter on the page -

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and we can take a look at that right here.

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That is an extraordinary thing because, to me,

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it resembles a piano much more than it does a typewriter.

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Well, this is one of the early models.

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We believe this is about 1868.

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The idea was that you would strike a key, like a piano,

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and it would actuate across these bars,

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which were then tied to a tower with rods and actuators

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that would actually bring the type piece up to strike the paper.

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Incredibly inventive.

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But now, this suddenly begins to look like a typewriter.

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What is this? This is an 1870s version of the Sholes typewriter.

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So what we have here is a refinement.

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The biggest thing here is, by this time,

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they actually developed the Qwerty keyboard

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that we are familiar with today.

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So why do we have Q-W-E-R-T-Y at the beginning of our keyboard?

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Well, it has to do with the arrangement of the rods

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and all of the little connections inside of the machine.

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If you put it in a regular alphabetic order,

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things tend to cross or letters next to each other will catch on each other.

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That is extraordinary.

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I mean, I have here, obviously, a 21st-century mobile phone,

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it has a Qwerty keyboard,

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and you're telling me that

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the origin of that was a mechanical difficulty that,

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way back in the 19th century, Sholes was trying to solve.

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That's exactly right.

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It was established in the 1870s and it lives with us today.

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Sholes' design went into mass production

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after he won the backing of the Remington company.

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The Remington No 1 went on sale in 1874.

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It became the world's first commercially successful typewriter.

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Sholes had used his daughter Lillian to demonstrate his earlier devices

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and Remington continued to market its newfangled contraptions to women.

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Al, these are...

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wonderful objects and literally beautiful.

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This is one of the original Sholes and Glidden machines.

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It's painted and decorated this way because of the Remington company.

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So the idea was that,

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if the scary typewriting machine was decorated in a similar way

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to an object that's already in your home, you'd be more apt to use it,

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especially for women.

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Their manual dexterity was considered to be superior to that of men,

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so they were really desired as typists.

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By 1888, there were 60,000 typists across America

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and most of them were women.

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Were women typists reasonably well paid?

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Your average clerk at the time was making about $9 a week.

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An experienced typist could make $20 a week.

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That was an incredible amount of money at the time.

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So the typewriter, an object that I very much take for granted,

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had a huge impact on business, a huge impact on society, too.

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That's exactly right.

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I'm bidding Milwaukee farewell

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and following my Appleton's 30 miles south.

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The book tells me that the tracks run along the west shore of Lake Michigan

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through a rich farming region.

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Farmers played a vital role in 19th-century urbanisation

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and industrialisation.

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I'm heading for Racine, Wisconsin, the second city of the state,

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pleasantly situated on a plateau

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projecting about five miles into the lake.

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Manufactures are the chief source of the city's prosperity.

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Today's researchers will produce a combined harvest

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of mechanisation and agriculture.

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TRAIN HORN BLARES

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I'm on the case of a man who knew how to sort

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the wheat from the chaff.

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Case IH Agriculture is now a global brand.

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Marketing manager Juliann Ulbrich knows how the story began.

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Juliann, hi.

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Hi. I'm Michael.

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Nice to meet you. What a wonderful place this is.

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What an extraordinary collection of historic artefacts.

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Now, your founder had the wonderful name Jerome Increase Case.

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Tell me about him. Yeah.

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So we often call him JI Case for short

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and he was actually born in New York state.

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He was a very bright young man

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and saw a lot of opportunity to make the farmers' life a lot easier.

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And so, in 1842, JI Case headed west to Wisconsin,

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the perfect place to turn his ideas into big business.

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The Midwest at that time was the big breadbasket of the United States

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and where industry meets agriculture.

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Right here, you have the Great Lakes, rail hubs,

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so that you can transport both equipment

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and the grain that you needed to feed the large population out east.

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This looks like the oldest piece in your collection. Tell me about that.

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Yeah, so this is a threshing machine from the 1860s.

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It beats the wheat to separate the straw from the grain.

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Before you had this machine, how was that process undertaken?

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You would have farmers doing this by hand with flails, beating the grain.

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This was a huge improvement.

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In the 1840s, when JI Case started the business,

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about three quarters of the American population was involved in farming.

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It was extremely labour-intensive.

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But the threshing machine and other mechanisation,

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it greatly reduced the number of people that had to be tied to the land.

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So, by the 1870s, it was only about half of the population.

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The Industrial Revolution was largely enabled by the advances in

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agriculture and mechanisation on the farms.

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At the time of my guidebook,

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JI Case's company was growing

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and diversifying into all manner of farm equipment.

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And some of their world-famous tractors are still made here

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in Racine at the rate of roughly one every 20 minutes.

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Jerome Increase Case was probably aptly named because

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the business has mushroomed,

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not only in the size of the production line,

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but in the size of the vehicles.

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Just look at these jumbo tractors!

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Plant manager Nate Burgers

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has agreed to let me test drive a brand-new, six-cylinder,

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280 horsepower tractor.

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All right, so this is the final product here,

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so let me show you how to get inside this.

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Feel free to step right up there.

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I'm in.

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All right. Lovely, comfortable machine, actually.

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ENGINE STARTS

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Perfect.

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And a little bit of gas.

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Yeah. Can I put a little bit of gas? Go ahead, get it going.

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The latest Magnum tractor rolls off the line,

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a tribute to Jerome Increase Case.

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German Turners arrived in Milwaukee on the shores of Lake Michigan,

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spreading a message of physical and mental fitness,

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perhaps contributing to an ideal workforce

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for America's second Industrial Revolution.

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Threshing machines made by JI Case contributed to the mechanisation

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of the countryside and the urbanisation of the population.

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Whilst Sholes typewriters ushered women into office jobs.

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But the city has achieved international attention thanks to

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Harley-Davidson, perhaps America's most iconic machine.

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Next time, I make a few announcements...

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2.58, your train's never late!

0:28:000:28:03

..strike out in America's national game...

0:28:030:28:06

There we go. You're looking like a natural already.

0:28:060:28:09

..and I'm blown away by the Windy City.

0:28:090:28:12

Chicago - surely one of the world's most stunning cities?

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Before I met you, I was a civilised woman.

0:28:500:28:52

Now I don't even know what that means.

0:28:540:28:56

Fear makes animals of us all.

0:28:570:28:59

Would the defendant please stand? What have I done?

0:29:020:29:05

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