Gwenan Lyttle Cefn Gwlad


Gwenan Lyttle

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-It's a fine day.

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-Yes, it's a fine morning.

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-The weather is glorious.

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-The weather is glorious.

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-It couldn't be better.

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-If you're wondering where I am -

-I'm not Wales, but in Ireland.

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-I'll be in both the north and the

-south, but more about that later.

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-I've come to see Gwenan.

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-She was originally Gwenan Morgan

-from Tregaron...

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-..now, she's Gwenan Morgan Lyttle...

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-..having married

-and moved to Ireland.

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-She and her husband share an

-interest in sheepdogs and sheep.

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-I hope you're enjoying

-similar weather in Wales...

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-..because it's glorious over here!

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-GWENAN LYTTLE

-Pettigo, Northern Ireland

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-It's been over a year since Gwenan

-and her husband, Alistair...

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-..began their married life

-in the Pettigo area.

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-The village lies on the border...

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-..between Northern Ireland

-and the Republic of Ireland.

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-It's not far from Enniskillen,

-in the Fermanagh Lakelands.

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-We don't often see

-such ferries in Wales.

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-Here we are, on the boat.

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-We've made it, Dai.

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-You're a good driver!

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-I was afraid

-I'd knock my wing mirror!

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-Good weather

-makes such a difference.

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-Why are we moving?

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-Is the handbrake on?

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-It's the boat!

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-I thought we'd fall into the water!

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-This river passes through your land,

-lower down, doesn't it?

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-Yes - in one area, the boat

-comes right up against the bank.

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-You and Alistair spend most of your

-weekends attending sheepdog trials.

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-We never visit nice places!

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-We're going this way today

-because you're here!

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-We've nearly reached the other side.

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-Let's hope we come off the boat

-safely!

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-It's hard to believe

-that your roots are in Cwm Berwyn.

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-What village is this?

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-This village is called Pettigo.

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-Right.

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-Is this your village?

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-Is this your village?

-

-Yes, the closest village.

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-The village is in County Donegal.

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-The important point to remember...

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-..is the river

-that flows through the village...

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-..dividing the village in two.

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-County Fermanagh is on one side,

-in Northern Ireland...

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-..and County Donegal is on the other

-side, in the Republic of Ireland.

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-So the river serves as the border.

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-Yes, just the river.

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-During the time of the Troubles

-in Ireland...

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-..such things

-were vitally important.

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-Even today, there are problems

-with selling lambs...

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-..between north and south.

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-There used to be a proper border

-here, not just the river.

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-I understand

-there was some sort of gate...

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-..and you crossed

-from one side to the other.

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-You couldn't bring food,

-such as butter, from the south.

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-Butter might be cheaper on one side.

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-Is this where you come

-to do your shopping?

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-This is where I shop

-for small things...

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-..such as milk, bread and so on.

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-But when I go shopping

-in this village....

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-..I have to pay

-for the goods in euro...

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-..rather than sterling, so I do

-most of my shopping in the north.

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-I buy petrol or diesel

-in the south...

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-..because it's 10p to 15p cheaper

-per litre.

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-But fuel or oil for the home

-is cheaper in the north.

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-Were you familiar with the

-place before you came to Ireland?

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-No, not at all.

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-I didn't have any idea

-where the village of Pettigo was.

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-I didn't know anything

-about its history.

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-You were brought together by dogs.

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-Yes, sheepdogs.

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-You come from a close family

-with deep roots.

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-I had visited Ireland just once,

-on a day trip to Rosslare.

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-I'd never been to this place before.

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-It was completely new to me.

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-I know that you have

-a chapel background.

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-Is this where you worship,

-as a family?

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-Yes, in the village.

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-There are three churches

-within the same denomination.

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-We come to this village

-every other Sunday.

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-The other church

-is about a mile over the border...

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-..just down the road.

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-It's in Northern Ireland,

-but it's the same denomination...

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-..with the same vicar.

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-Every other week?

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-Every other week?

-

-Every other week.

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-For the Sunday collection...

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-..you need euro at one church

-and sterling at the other!

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-What part do you play?

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-Actually, they'd heard,

-almost before I'd arrived...

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-..that I played the organ

-at the church in Tregaron...

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-..so they asked if I'd be willing

-to play every other Sunday...

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-..and that's what I've done.

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-The first time I played

-was at a Thanksgiving service...

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-..after I moved here.

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-Everyone has been very welcoming.

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-Alistair Lyttle, Gwenan's husband...

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-..spends a lot of his time

-training sheepdogs.

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-Today, he's working

-with Hebridean sheep...

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-..an ideal breed

-for training young dogs...

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-..because flocks stay together.

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-HE WHISTLES

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-This dog has won several prizes,

-though he's only two years old.

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-He won the Irish Nursery

-back in March.

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-Several trials took place

-in this region last week...

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-..and competitors need points

-for the national trials in August.

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-He was lucky enough

-to win lots of points last week.

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-Those sheep flock together well.

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-He's trying to split them up.

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-Lambs learn flocking behaviour

-from their mothers.

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-The dog moved in

-like a butcher's knife!

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-I like him.

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-Give him another year or two.

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-Give him another year or two.

-

-He's a smart young dog.

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-Alistair spends a lot of time

-overseas, conducting clinics.

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-Yes, clinics.

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-He's been lucky over the past year,

-he's visited several countries.

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-He's been to Spain, of all places.

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-You'd never think

-that people kept sheepdogs in Spain.

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-He visits Norway and Switzerland...

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-..and he's going to Holland

-in a fortnight.

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-Alistair isn't the only

-sheepdog expert in the family.

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-Gwenan has a five-year-old bitch...

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-..that gave birth recently

-to 11 puppies.

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-She's quite a nice bitch and

-Gwenan's doing a good job with her.

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-What is it like in this country,

-to get runs?

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-You've got to go early,

-in our country...

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-..if you want two dogs

-to run in a day.

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-In May, it seems to me,

-when you have two session trials...

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-..to be in the first 30 dogs

-in the first session...

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-..you've got to be in the field

-at 3.30am or 4.00am.

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-It's a little bit crazy,

-but such as it is, over here!

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-These sheep -

-you've got Herdwicks.

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-Some Herdwicks.

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-We'd seen them at a market,

-one evening...

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-..we thought

-they were quite a novelty...

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-..and we'd heard they're good

-for training dogs.

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-They seem to work well.

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-They're quite nice.

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-Gwenan is from a family

-of sheepdog people.

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-Indeed.

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-She had a good tutor to start off.

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-She's starting to look quite good

-with this bitch.

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-Last winter, she ran

-a nursery bitch of mine...

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-..and it really helped her.

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-I think she's got confidence

-in going for the post.

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-I could have a bit of competition

-on my hands this summer!

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-We could be coming home

-of an evening, not speaking!

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-Difficult times ahead!

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-Shearing is taking place today.

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-It's a very busy time,

-but things are running smoothly.

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-Everyone knows what they have to do.

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-The rams were sheared this morning.

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-They're given a dose of vitamins

-and a worming dose.

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-Then they go back to the field.

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-Will you be selling these rams?

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-A lot of them, yes.

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-Most of the Bluefaced rams

-will be sold, but we'll keep a few.

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-And we'll keep the ones

-we bought last year.

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-You breed from them.

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-You breed from them.

-

-Yes, we breed from them.

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-We had a bad year, last year.

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-The weather was terribly bad.

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-We suffered several losses,

-especially with this breed.

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-It's not an easy breed

-to keep alive.

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-Some of the Continental breeds

-don't grow enough wool.

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-Yes, you wouldn't think

-they'd survive outdoors.

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-These are yearlings.

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-You won't be breeding from them,

-will you?

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-No, we wait another year.

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-Next year, they'll be mated

-with a Bluefaced ram.

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-Your mules have nice heads.

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-They have nice markings.

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-They're quite dark, though

-some people like a lighter colour.

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-These are Scottish mules -

-I think I prefer them.

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-Some people use Swales,

-but they're not so good.

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-They have shorter legs.

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-You're close to the border...

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-..some of your land is in the north

-and some is in the south.

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-Are there complications

-when you take animals to market?

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-The two sides use different tags.

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-At first, I was rather naive.

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-I'd assumed that you could sell

-lambs wherever the price was best.

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-You're a Cardi!

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-But you can't do that.

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-If a flock is in the south,

-you have to sell in the south...

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-..and flocks in the north

-must stay in the north.

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-There's a lot of paperwork involved.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Ireland is at its best in June.

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-Gwenan Lyttle,

-originally from Tregaron...

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-..now farms in Pettigo

-in Northern Ireland.

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-She has young lambs

-that still need feeding.

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-It's feeding time.

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-Come on!

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-Hand-reared lambs are taking over!

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-They're very demanding.

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-They're fine lambs -

-Border Leicesters.

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-Five of these lambs are from

-North Country Cheviot ewes...

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-..sired by a Border Leicester ram.

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-They have nice, pricked-up ears.

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-Yes, they have good ears -

-plenty of room for a tag!

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-I must share the milk equally.

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-Reminds me of a creamery!

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-You keep several different breeds.

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-Yes, we keep several breeds.

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-I introduced the North Country

-Cheviots and the Border Leicesters.

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-I started my own flock.

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-We also have Bluefaced Leicesters -

-Bluefaced rams and ewes.

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-We have a flock of about 60 sheep.

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-Then we have

-Scottish Blackface sheep...

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-..which we cross with Bluefaced rams

-to produce mules.

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-Where do you buy rams?

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-Usually, we buy them in Carlisle.

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-That's where we buy Bluefaced rams.

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-We sell quite a lot in Ballinrobe,

-which is in the south.

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-They fetch high prices.

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-They're a nice breed,

-they handle well...

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-..but they're delicate,

-they don't survive very easily.

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-In addition to the sheep

-at Rosefield Farm...

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-..the family also keeps

-a herd of fine cattle.

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-Moving the electric fence

-is a regular task...

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-..for Alistair

-and his father, David Lyttle.

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-How often must you move the fence?

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-Once every other day.

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-Every other day.

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-We need to allow them enough grass.

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-I've noticed lots of farmers

-using electric fences with cattle.

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-It's a matter of necessity.

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-The ground is so wet,

-and we don't want it trampled.

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-This keeps it under control.

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-Are they Charolais calves?

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-We have a Charolais bull...

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-..and many of our cows

-are Shorthorns.

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-It's a fairly quiet breed.

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-Beef Shorthorn?

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-Beef Shorthorn?

-

-They're easy to manage.

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-The cows are a decent size.

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-They've been outside

-for just a fortnight.

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-Today is the first of June.

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-Today is the first of June.

-

-That's right.

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-Last summer, we had to keep

-the cows inside throughout August.

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-They enjoy being outside.

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-That's where they like to be.

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-Cows belong outside.

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-One thing about the electric fence -

-none of this grass is wasted.

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-Fertiliser costs money.

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-The cows have good grazing.

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-They try hard

-to squeeze under the fence...

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-..they manage to reach

-another two feet.

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-Alistair's Uncle Billy lives

-a mile or two from Rosefield Farm.

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-His home is across the border

-in Northern Ireland.

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-Showjumpers are his main interest.

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-Alistair is obviously familiar

-with horses.

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-He likes horses.

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-Years ago, he was very much involved

-with showjumping.

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-You look the part, Alistair!

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-This is a typical Connemara, is it?

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-This is a typical Connemara, is it?

-

-A typical Connemara, yes.

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-There were always horses at home.

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-My uncle always kept in the horse

-line and does very well in them.

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-He keeps a few stallions, now.

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-He has a very good eye for a horse.

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-He's always kept me

-with the interest as well.

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-Very often, you get a horse man

-and a dog man going together.

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-It's great to see

-this Connemara stallion.

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-Wherever you go in Ireland...

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-..you'll find plenty of history

-and tradition.

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-In this area,

-peat is still cut for burning.

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-It provides plenty of heat.

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-Come and see the fire, Dai.

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-Good gracious!

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-That's what I call a fire!

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-Is it easy to light?

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-Yes, it is.

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-You can put the glove on

-and add more peat to the fire.

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-How do you open the door?

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-You turn that knob.

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-Turn it to the left.

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-It's hot!

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-The peat is hard.

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-How much do you use in a day?

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-In winter, we use about a bucketful

-of peat every evening.

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-This stove heats water

-and also feeds 14 radiators.

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-This area

-is surrounded by peat bogs.

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-In the past, local residents

-were each given an acre of bog...

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-..for cutting peat.

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-There's peat all around us.

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-Be careful where you walk.

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-It's like walking on top of a bed!

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-The ground gives way beneath you.

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-It's similar to common land, really.

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-Farmers and smallholders

-in the area...

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-..each own a small piece of land.

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-The peat is cut by the hour...

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-..and a hour's cutting will give you

-about 400 bags of peat.

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-I'm sure you can smell peat burning

-in lots of villages.

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-Yes, especially

-if people use open fires.

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-Lots of people use wood burners

-where the fire is closed in...

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-..but you'll find open fires

-in many old houses...

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-..and people like the smell.

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-It's a familiar smell.

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-There's a man over there

-with a rake.

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-There's a lot of work involved -

-the peat has to be turned.

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-Imagine how much more difficult

-it was in the past.

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-It still takes a lot of work

-to dry and turn the peat.

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-It's stacked to form little

-wigwams, as we call them.

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-You can't harvest peat

-when the weather is wet.

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-You have to leave to outside

-to dry for a long time...

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-..until September or October.

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-The peat must be stacked high.

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-It can't be anything new...

0:19:420:19:45

-..for someone who was raised

-near Cors Caron bog.

0:19:450:19:49

-Peat was a traditional fuel

-around Tregaron...

0:19:500:19:53

-..though it's not so common, now.

0:19:530:19:56

-When I first came here

-and saw how they cut peat...

0:19:560:20:00

-..I was amazed.

0:20:000:20:02

-I took pictures and made videos

-to show Mam and Dad.

0:20:030:20:07

-They couldn't believe it.

0:20:070:20:09

-They were accustomed

-to using a small spade...

0:20:090:20:12

-..and you couldn't cut much

-in a day.

0:20:130:20:16

-It's cut very neatly, isn't it?

0:20:190:20:21

-Yes.

0:20:220:20:23

-I'll lift this for you to see.

0:20:230:20:25

-This has started drying on one side.

0:20:260:20:29

-It was probably cut last week.

0:20:290:20:32

-The other side is still quite wet.

0:20:320:20:35

-Feel its weight - it's heavy.

0:20:350:20:37

-Once the peat

-has dried out completely...

0:20:370:20:40

-..it's light,

-and just half the size.

0:20:400:20:44

-Is this a farmer or a contractor?

0:20:450:20:47

-A farmer - he's my father-in-law.

0:20:480:20:50

-A farmer - he's my father-in-law.

-

-David is driving?

0:20:500:20:51

-I see.

0:20:520:20:53

-David is driving.

0:20:530:20:54

-David is driving.

-

-I've seen him often with his dogs.

0:20:540:20:57

-He's been doing this for years.

0:20:570:20:59

-He has to know every inch

-of this piece of land...

0:21:000:21:04

-..so when someone asks him to cut

-an hour's worth of peat for them...

0:21:050:21:11

-..he has to know

-exactly where to cut.

0:21:110:21:14

-The ground is extremely soft!

0:21:170:21:19

-The ground is extremely soft!

-

-Yes, it's like jelly!

0:21:190:21:21

-It's frightening - is there

-any danger that I'll sink in?!

0:21:230:21:29

-Hello, David!

0:21:300:21:31

-How are you?

0:21:310:21:32

-How are you?

-

-Very well, thank you.

0:21:320:21:34

-We've got soft ground in Ireland!

0:21:340:21:36

-Dai's afraid he's going to sink!

0:21:370:21:39

-Have you lost the shepherd's crook?!

0:21:390:21:42

-I nearly lost it!

0:21:420:21:44

-You've been doing this

-for a year or two.

0:21:440:21:47

-A couple of years, yes.

0:21:470:21:49

-A couple of years, yes.

-

-It's quite popular, still.

0:21:490:21:51

-It's still cheap oil, lifted

-by a lot of people out of the bog.

0:21:510:21:56

-If you come out here

-early in the morning...

0:21:580:22:01

-..there's such a thing

-as the mountain dew.

0:22:010:22:04

-I saw a bit of it down the bottom.

0:22:040:22:06

-I saw a bit of it down the bottom.

-

-You can collect it.

0:22:060:22:07

-The dew?

0:22:070:22:09

-I thought we were tight

-in Cardiganshire!

0:22:090:22:12

-Wait a minute, take your time.

0:22:120:22:14

-Wait a minute, take your time.

-

-I saw the mist this morning.

0:22:140:22:16

-Did you see the mist?

0:22:160:22:17

-Did you see the mist?

-

-It was thick.

0:22:170:22:19

-What have you got there, David?

0:22:220:22:24

-This is the mountain dew.

0:22:240:22:25

-This is the mountain dew.

-

-Mountain dew?

0:22:250:22:27

-I won't give you too much,

-you might not be used to it.

0:22:270:22:30

-I'd like to see you join me.

0:22:310:22:32

-I'd like to see you join me.

-

-Slainte!

0:22:320:22:33

-Slainte - I've heard Scotsmen

-say, "Slainte mhaith."

0:22:340:22:37

-The English say, "Good health,"

-the Welsh say, "Iechyd da."

0:22:380:22:42

-I asked an Irishman, "What do you

-say?" and he said, "More!"

0:22:420:22:46

-Good grief!

0:22:540:22:56

-I'll have to lean on my stick!

0:22:560:22:58

-That's just a drop!

0:22:590:23:00

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