Y Gelli Gandryll Cefn Gwlad


Y Gelli Gandryll

Y tro hwn bydd Dai Jones, Llanilar yn ymweld â thref hynafol Y Gelli Gandryll. Dai Jones, Llanilar visits the ancient town of Hay on Wye and meets local farmers and a retired vet.


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Transcript


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-I've arrived here in Hay-on-Wye,

-and do you know, it's a lovely day.

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-This town is famous

-as a centre for books and bookshops.

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-That's not why I'm here, by the way.

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-There are Welsh speakers here,

-and a livestock mart...

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-..so I'm looking forward to it.

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-I love this place.

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-The ancient town of Hay,

-on the banks of the Wye in Powys...

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-..is a stone's throw from the border

-between England and Wales.

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-Even this close to the border,

-Welsh speakers live and work here.

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-Prices are always buoyant

-at the local mart.

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-The quality products

-from Hay-on-Wye's mart...

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-..are a feast for the eyes

-in local shops.

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-Dolan Leighton from Carmarthenshire

-runs a hotel in the town...

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-..and, how can I put it,

-she's quite a character.

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-Don't you fall.

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-Don't you fall.

-

-I'm in these shoes.

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-I'll never pick you up.

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-If I go down first, you'll be OK.

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-I've been walking in the sunshine

-and I've met a character.

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-Her name's Dolan, and that's enough.

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-Yes, Dolan's fine.

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-Where are we going now?

-Down to the river?

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-Is there something special

-about this river?

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-That stream is Nant Dulais.

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-You're in Wales this side...

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-..and in England that side.

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-England. Now then.

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-It's prettier this side.

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-This is a good bridge.

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-This is a good bridge.

-

-I know.

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-A lot of people use it

-to walk through the fields.

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-The river must be high

-after heavy rain.

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-It floods. It's dangerous.

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-"Danjerus". That's not a word

-you hear often in Hay.

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-"Danjerus."

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-For a small stream, it's dangerous.

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-She's wound up!

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-Tell me now,

-how long have you been here?

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-It'll be twelve years in August.

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-I came here by myself,

-not knowing where it was.

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-I fell in love with the pub.

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-I really fell for it.

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-When he found out

-I'd bought it, Dadi told me...

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-.."What the hell?"

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-He did speak Welsh!

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-"What the hell are you doing

-buying this old place?

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-"All it'll do is cost you money."

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-Did I listen to him? No.

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-Was he right? Yes.

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-But he was a one.

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-When Festival week comes...

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-..it must be hard work at the hotel.

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-Yes, we don't stop for ten days.

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-But it's good for the town.

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-It's so big now,

-it's out of town...

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-..but it's still good for the town

-and its businesses.

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-The Hay Festival has been held

-every year since 1987...

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-..and has grown immensely by now.

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-There are lots of ice cream shops.

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-There are lots of ice cream shops.

-

-This one here is popular.

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-I heard that they ran out

-during the Festival.

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-Everyone had a good Festival.

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-It's been busy.

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-That it's a great boon for the town.

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-Do you see the castle?

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-Do you see the castle?

-

-Surely no-one lives there?

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-No, but it's being restored now.

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-Was it inhabited until recently?

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-Was it inhabited until recently?

-

-Richard Booth lived there.

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-He owned the castle.

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-Did he?

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-He put Hay on the map.

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-He introduced the books

-and he was the King of Hay.

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-There was a ceremony and everything.

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-There was a ceremony and everything.

-

-A man of status!

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-So, he lived here?

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-The castle does look quite tidy

-on one side.

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-He did live here at one time,

-but it's been sold now.

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-It's being restored by a trust now,

-who've had funding to do the work.

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-It's a big part of Hay

-here on the square.

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-Not every square has a castle.

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-And a queen! Come on, let's go!

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-After a look at the border

-and the town centre...

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-..we head back to Dolan's

-historic hotel and pub...

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-..the Old Black Lion.

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-Excellent.

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-That was steep.

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-That was steep.

-

-I'm out of puff now.

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-It's time for a drink.

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-It's time for a drink.

-

-I had trouble keeping up.

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-It's ready.

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-It is as well.

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-We deserve one, I'd say.

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-I feel better already.

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-Everyone knows what I drink.

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-Excellent.

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-It's muggy, then the showers come.

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-It's muggy, then the showers come.

-

-Iechyd da.

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-I'm out of puff.

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-Which one's mine?

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-Which one's mine?

-

-That one.

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-Iechyd da.

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-This bar is full of character.

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-This bar is full of character.

-

-It's nice, isn't it?

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-Do you get lots of people staying?

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-Yes, it's busy, pretty busy.

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-It's quiet in winter,

-but that's true of anywhere.

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-I see photos

-of jazz musicians everywhere.

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-Do you have jazz nights here?

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-Do you have jazz nights here?

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-Yes, every Friday night.

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-And all through the Festival.

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-Jazz every Friday, people who

-have played at Ronnie Scott's.

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-Grand old places like this one...

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-..often have stories

-about ghosts in rooms.

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-Is that true of here?

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-Is that true of here?

-

-Yes, it is.

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-The room

-where you slept last night...

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-..there's a ghost there

-that might have shared your bed.

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-A ghost?

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-A ghost?

-

-Yes.

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-A bogeyman?

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-A bogeyman?

-

-A bogeyman!

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-I feared the bogeyman

-when I was a child.

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-We'll settle for a bogeyman.

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-Hay may not be familiar to me...

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-..but I've reached

-the livestock mart.

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-I'm delighted to be here,

-because the standard is very high.

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-The fatstock lambs here

-are as good as at any mart.

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-It's an old mart...

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-..but over the years,

-back in the '20s and '30s...

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-..some thousands of lambs were sold.

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-As I said, the quality is here.

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-Apparently, local people,

-local butchers, buy a lot here.

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-By the end of the morning,

-we'll see what the trade is like.

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-Emyr Roberts

-is from Llansannan originally...

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-..but he has lived in the Hay area

-since the 1980s.

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-He's a proficient sheep grader...

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-..and no-one knows the quality

-of local sheep better than him.

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-There are a lot of white ones here.

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-There are a lot of white ones here.

-

-These Texels have become popular.

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-It used to be all black-faced.

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-It used to be all black-faced.

-

-Yes, when I first came here.

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-That's all changed now,

-to Texel, Beltex and Charollais.

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-The land is good here,

-and these lambs are a good size.

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-They're heavier than they look.

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-They weigh more than you think.

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-We're in Hay-on-Wye on a Thursday.

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-How many marts do you do in a week?

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-How many marts do you do in a week?

-

-Um, six.

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-Do you?

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-Yes, I've been doing six since 1992.

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-I started myself, but I'm lucky

-to have lads helping me.

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-There's a clear place

-for you boys at the mart.

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-You need someone to grade the lambs,

-or every Tom, Dick and Harry...

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-We find that if trade has gone up...

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-..quite a few farmers

-want to bring everything.

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-Lambs that are too fat and too thin.

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-They have to be sorted by weight.

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-The market now

-demands lighter lambs than before.

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-You can sell the big lambs

-here at the mart...

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-..but we're punished on the hook.

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-..but we're punished on the hook.

-

-That's right.

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-But one or two butchers here

-want big lambs for catering.

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-They can pick them up

-from the market.

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-How busy is it?

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-I know it's down from what it was.

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-I heard one of the lads say

-it was in the thousands in the '30s.

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-It's an old mart, isn't it?

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-It's harder

-to keep this place going.

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-But a lot of local farmers

-try their best to keep it going.

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-We're lucky that they do try.

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-Your roots are further north.

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-Many of those watching will remember

-your father, Bobi Roberts of Brecon.

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-He sang in the vigils at Glansevin.

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-He could sing, but I can't.

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-He could sing, but I can't.

-

-Can't you?

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-No, I can't go up or down!

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-I'm useless.

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-Starting now

-on the non-Continental class...

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-There's some kind of show here too.

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-Yes, we have a new judge here today.

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-Not you?

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-Not you?

-

-No, I can't judge them.

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-You're here every week.

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-You're here every week.

-

-Yes, so I'd be in trouble.

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-I can't do it, no.

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-One of the classes

-at Hay this morning...

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-..is for Continental Beltex lambs.

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-The standard is high.

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-What weight are you looking for?

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-They want around 40 kilos, 41 or 42.

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-Live weight?

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-Yes, live.

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-About 18, 19, 20 kilos on the hook.

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-There are smaller ones as well.

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-Here today,

-everyone wants to buy these.

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-Two butchers are after them.

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-Everyone wants them.

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-You could buy them

-with your eyes closed.

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-They'll be in local shops as well.

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-The competition

-between shop windows is important.

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-Congratulations to Price and Rogers,

-Lower Sgynlas Farm, Glasbury, Powys.

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-They won the top prize

-with lambs of exceptional quality.

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-According to the auctioneer,

-Robert Meadmore...

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-..the mart at Hay

-may not be the biggest...

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-..but it's certainly the happiest.

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-..but it's certainly the happiest.

-

-Round of applause, folks.

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-Very well done, everybody concerned.

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-A lovely day at Hay,

-the happiest market in the country.

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-I'd say that trade was very good.

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-Excellent trade.

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-Better than I expected.

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-Better than I expected.

-

-There were good lambs.

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-We had two butchers' shops

-here buying.

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-They've bought good lambs

-for their shops.

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-That's important, of course.

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-That's important, of course.

-

-Very important.

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-It's money for the farmers.

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-Money for the farmers

-is important...

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-..as is offering quality meat

-at the local butcher's shop.

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-This morning,

-manager Geraldine Like...

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-..is keeping an eye

-on the latest meat delivery.

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-Hello, hello, hello.

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-Hello, Dai.

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-I saw the corpses coming in.

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-I thought to myself,

-I hope she's alive.

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-You wouldn't want to fall out

-with them, Dai.

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-You've got some stuff in here.

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-You've got some stuff in here.

-

-You have to put it out to sell it.

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-You start in the right place

-by buying the right stuff...

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-..which is local.

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-Look at the lambs.

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-We see them live,

-looking terrific at the market.

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-They were last week's lambs,

-absolutely beautiful.

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-They're not Welsh lamb,

-I'm afraid to say.

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-They're just over the border,

-but they're good lambs, crackers.

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-You're keeping the family tradition

-and the business going.

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-I am. It wasn't exactly planned.

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-My poor father took ill.

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-I came back to help the boys

-and stayed, really.

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-I bet he's looking down, happy

-that you're taking his position.

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-Paul thinks I'm mad, I'm not sure.

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-It's been a good thing for me to do.

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-Can I wish you well?

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-Just remember the odd lamb

-from this side of the border!

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-We always try!

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-You'll keep us all happy.

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-Lovely to see you.

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-.

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-It's the middle of June...

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-..and the landscape around Hay

-is at its best.

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-Arwyn Davies is originally

-from Pontrhydfendigaid...

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-..but he spent over 40 years

-as a vet in this area.

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-He has retired now,

-but his career began back in 1965.

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-A year previously, I'd been working

-with the government in Cardiff.

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-In Llanishen.

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-But I was like a mountain sheep

-that had been locked in a barn.

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-I like being out in the countryside.

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-That's why I chose to become a vet.

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-That's how it started.

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-It was a Tuesday, and I got

-a call from one of my farmers.

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-John Evans, you might know him.

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-He kept Welsh Blacks.

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-I got there about half past ten.

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-I wasn't very good.

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-Fred Kane, my anchorman,

-got up about half past two.

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-That was the first animal

-I laid a hand on.

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-There was room for improvement.

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-You covered a lot of this area

-with your practice.

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-Yes, mostly within

-a ten-mile radius.

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-But I did go much further.

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-You must have liked the area

-because you've stayed here.

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-I moved quite a bit at first.

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-Every two years,

-my friends asked the question.

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-"Where are you going next, Arwyn?"

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-But ultimately, it's an experience.

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-We got a warm welcome in this area.

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-I came down here one day.

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-I hadn't been in town very long.

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-I was driving slowly,

-as every vet does.

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-A Volkswagen

-came towards me at speed.

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-Smack!

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-Smack.

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-That was the end of that car.

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-One of the farmers up here

-said to me...

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-.."Don't worry,

-I'm not doing anything today.

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-"I'll drive you around

-if you want me to."

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-How about that?

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-How about that?

-

-Very neighbourly.

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-Very neighbourly.

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-I notice

-that the town is Anglicized...

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-..and the area is fairly Anglicized.

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-But to be fair,

-you've kept your Welsh.

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-It's great, to be honest.

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-You don't get the chance

-to speak Welsh often.

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-None of my farming clients

-spoke Welsh.

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-About half a dozen

-in the town, probably.

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-No, I hardly spoke any Welsh...

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-..for about 30 years...

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-..while I was at the practice.

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-But I did a lot of work

-with the Show in Llanelwedd...

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-..and there's a lot of Welsh there.

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-Apart from the Festival, the town

-attracts people all year round.

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-There's a smaller festival

-in December as well.

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-Capel-y-ffin.

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-Of course,

-Hay was a small agricultural town.

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-There are photos of cattle

-being sold in the street.

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-That was true of many places.

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-It's odd that the mart's still open.

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-Yes, but it's a good thing.

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-One of the farmers

-told me that he comes there...

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-..not only to sell

-but also for some fun and a chat.

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-Farming these days

-is a very solitary life.

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-Farmers can be lonely.

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-Very lonely.

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-Tourists come up here

-and they see something not right.

0:18:050:18:11

-A lame animal, a pony perhaps.

0:18:110:18:14

-They have cell phones nowadays.

0:18:170:18:19

-They don't look for the farm.

0:18:190:18:22

-They ring the RSPCA

-and say that something isn't right.

0:18:220:18:26

-They in turn call a vet.

0:18:270:18:29

-I've spent over an hour

-before now...

0:18:300:18:32

-..looking for an injured badger

-that someone has seen.

0:18:320:18:36

-This farm, Tynllyne they call it,

-belongs to a friend of mine.

0:18:380:18:42

-It's probably Ty yn y Llwyn.

0:18:420:18:45

-Dairy cattle.

0:18:450:18:46

-I only had about four dairy farms

-in this whole area.

0:18:470:18:52

-My friend,

-when he came out of college...

0:18:530:18:57

-..they milked 40 cows

-in an abreast parlour.

0:18:580:19:03

-They have 400 cows now.

0:19:040:19:06

-A lot of farms kept milking cows...

0:19:070:19:12

-..when I came out of college.

0:19:120:19:14

-Small farms,

-county council holdings.

0:19:140:19:17

-Yes, yes.

0:19:180:19:19

-They had been set up...

0:19:190:19:22

-..to help people into farming.

0:19:230:19:25

-It was a good idea.

0:19:260:19:27

-Youngsters today haven't much hope,

-given land prices here.

0:19:270:19:31

-What happened to a lot of them,

-if you remember...

0:19:320:19:36

-..was giving up on the churns.

0:19:370:19:39

-Yes, yes.

0:19:390:19:40

-The bulk came in.

0:19:410:19:42

-The bulk came in.

-

-Tanks.

0:19:420:19:43

-A lot of people decided...

0:19:430:19:47

-..that they weren't

-going to splash out on tanks.

0:19:470:19:53

-I remember,

-before going over to the tank...

0:19:550:19:58

-..I could carry

-a ten-gallon milk churn...

0:19:580:20:01

-..no trouble at all,

-and put it up on the stand.

0:20:010:20:04

-Once the tanks came

-and I got out of the habit...

0:20:040:20:07

-..I couldn't move them.

0:20:070:20:08

-We're high up here.

0:20:160:20:17

-Most of these farms

-have Welsh names.

0:20:180:20:20

-Yes, in this area.

0:20:210:20:22

-But over the hill behind you,

-you're in England.

0:20:220:20:26

-There are some Welsh names

-in the next valley...

0:20:260:20:29

-..then it's all English.

0:20:300:20:31

-I never considered that Hay

-was so close to mountains.

0:20:320:20:37

-It looks so green,

-and the wonderful red soil.

0:20:370:20:41

-Yes, it's very pleasant.

0:20:410:20:44

-It's a good farming area.

0:20:440:20:48

-There's something

-about the red soil.

0:20:480:20:51

-It lacks cobalt.

0:20:520:20:54

-That leads to a disease...

0:20:550:20:58

-..especially in lambs

-being fattened.

0:20:580:21:01

-They don't come on as they should.

0:21:020:21:04

-The answer is to dose them...

0:21:050:21:08

-..or a shot of B12, vitamin B12...

0:21:080:21:12

-..or to spread cobalt sulphate

-onto the land.

0:21:130:21:18

-You don't need a lot.

0:21:190:21:20

-No, just a pound or two per acre...

0:21:200:21:24

-..every three or four years.

0:21:250:21:28

-Of course, if you feed...

0:21:290:21:32

-..if you give them creep,

-there's plenty in the creep...

0:21:330:21:38

-..but not if you're fattening them

-on pasture.

0:21:390:21:43

-We're looking at natural farmland.

0:21:430:21:46

-You want lambs that can live off it

-nowadays, because feed is expensive.

0:21:460:21:51

-Not that calling the vet is cheap.

0:21:520:21:54

-That's changed, it's safe to say!

0:21:540:21:58

-I can't understand why you retired!

0:21:580:22:00

-I've been out of it for ten years.

0:22:000:22:02

-I've been out of it for ten years.

-

-Have you really?

0:22:020:22:03

-Yes, ten years,

-but I do have some sheep myself.

0:22:030:22:09

-Nowadays, I have to call out

-a vet and pay a vet's bill!

0:22:090:22:13

-I tell people,

-"I didn't realize how much...

0:22:140:22:18

-"..it was costing!"

0:22:180:22:20

-Here we are again.

0:22:230:22:25

-Right ahead of us is Hay Bluff,

-where the hang-gliders take off.

0:22:250:22:30

-You'll often see twenty

-in the air at the same time.

0:22:320:22:35

-I've heard that it's the best area

-in Europe for hang-gliding.

0:22:360:22:42

-Down there on the right

-is Bwlch yr Angel, Gospel Pass.

0:22:440:22:49

-That's a good Welsh name,

-Bwlch yr Angel.

0:22:490:22:52

-I doubt there are angels here.

0:22:520:22:54

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

0:23:170:23:19

-.

0:23:190:23:19

Y tro hwn bydd Dai Jones, Llanilar yn ymweld â thref hynafol Y Gelli Gandryll. Dai Jones, Llanilar visits the ancient town of Hay on Wye and meets local farmers and a retired vet.


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