Benodet- Quimper Codi Hwyl


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Benodet- Quimper

Bydd John a Dilwyn yn hwylio i Benodet /Benoded lle byddan nhw'n ymweld a'r farchnad leol. Dilwyn and John visit Benodet where they visit a Breton market and John tries to make ...


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-*

0:00:000:00:00

-The last time, Dilwyn Morgan

-and John Pierce Jones...

0:00:000:00:04

-..were roaming

-Douarnenez's narrow streets.

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-They received a warm welcome

-and a memorable farewell.

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-Leaving Douarnenez in the mist,

-they took sweet memories along...

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-..of the town

-that Meic Stevens immortalized.

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-Nice, eh? What a place.

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-I was very fond of that town.

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-I was very fond of that town.

-

-I was too.

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-And the people, yet again.

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-It was so laid back,

-everyone let you get on with it.

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-Do you know what I mean?

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-You could do as you liked,

-no petty restrictions.

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-Very bohemian, and a great place

-to have a good time.

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-They knew how to have fun.

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-I see now why Meic Stevens liked it.

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-I see now why Meic Stevens liked it.

-

-Yes.

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-I'll miss this place again.

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-It's the same wherever we go.

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-Wow!

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-We're privileged to see this view.

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-Look!

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-Look!

-

-I know.

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-Incredible, isn't it?

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-I'll need a course from you soon.

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-Tell me when.

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-Cap du Raz.

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-It's one of the toughest places

-we've been to.

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-In Europe. The strongest tide.

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-We've been to the Mizzen.

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-Fastnet.

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-Haven't we?

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-Haven't we?

-

-Yes. Land's End.

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-Land's End, Bardsey Sound...

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-..The Swellies...

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-Everyone said the Chenal du Four,

-but that was OK.

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-But so much has been written

-about getting through here...

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-That's what I did yesterday.

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-I did a bit of work on this place.

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-I did a bit of work on this place.

-

-Did you?

0:01:540:01:55

-Yes.

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-Yes.

-

-It's good to know you've been busy.

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-It's vital that John

-has plotted the course perfectly...

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-..so that the Mystique can pass

-through the Raz de Sein channel...

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-..when the tide is at its weakest,

-or it could mean the end for them.

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-They face a 60-mile trip,

-some twelve hours, to Benodet.

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-Are we OK?

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-We're late.

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-What do you mean, late?

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-I'd like to be off the point now,

-because it's slack water there...

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-..at nine o'clock,

-the best time to go through.

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-But with every hour that passes now,

-the tide will grow in strength.

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-Taking us down too fast?

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-Yes, it'll be taking us down,

-and we'll have less control.

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-Are you worried?

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-Are you worried?

-

-I'm worried that we're late, yes.

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-I'd be happier if we were an hour

-further up the course.

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-It is a dangerous place, is it?

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-Among the most dangerous

-in Europe, tide-wise.

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-It's narrow,

-and the seabed is rocky.

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-It churns up the water

-like a washing machine.

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-You've made we worried now.

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-After this headland,

-you'll have to bear down a bit.

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-OK, bearing in mind that the tide

-will carry me sideways here.

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-I prefer to go further out,

-so don't turn me too soon.

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-There are some rocks there.

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-You need to go between these rocks

-and the rough water.

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-I can see Pointe du Raz.

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-I can see the tower.

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-The Pointe du Raz lighthouse

-is a famous image on posters...

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-..being battered by the waves.

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-..being battered by the waves.

-

-You can see the rough water to port.

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-You need to direct me past that.

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-La Vieille, the old lady, is

-the lighthouse that leads ships...

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-..past the rocky headland

-of Beg ar Raz.

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-This is the most westerly point

-in France.

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-The Atlantic's over there.

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-On the French mainland, obviously.

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-It's like Lands' End, in a way.

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-So many ships have sunk here.

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-This place is full of wrecks.

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-The timing of your stories

-is unbelievable.

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-Why?

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-I don't want to hear

-about shipwrecks...

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-..and people dying, not now.

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-Leave it until later.

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-Leave it until later.

-

-But we're here now.

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-We're not going to sink, are we?

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-The Bretons call it Penn ar Bed,

-the end of the world.

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-They once believed

-that this was the end of the world.

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-When anyone died, they left here

-and the next world was over there.

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-Good, eh?

0:05:000:05:01

-Good, eh?

-

-Yes.

0:05:010:05:02

-We've come through it.

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-Congratulations, Dilwyn.

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-Congratulations, Dilwyn.

-

-And the same to you, John.

0:05:130:05:15

-Another one to tick off.

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-I must say,

-that was exciting and nervous.

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-And you helmed it too,

-not the autopilot.

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-It was down to the preparation.

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-You were busy yesterday.

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-You were busy yesterday.

-

-All day.

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-Well, we're still going.

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-A little bit of sail

-to keep it steady, and the engine.

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-There's no wind.

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-I've seen something

-on the surface ahead of us.

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-It might be a shoal of fish.

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-There are birds feeding there...

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-..as well as dolphins,

-so there's something there.

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-We'll see.

0:06:060:06:07

-Those dolphins are feasting

-over there. Look at them.

0:06:090:06:13

-I'm going to wash my underpants.

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-Your underpants?

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-Yes, I'm out of clean ones.

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-Oh, OK.

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-I'll use the sink.

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-Not where we cook!

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-Not where we cook!

-

-Why not?

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-Swirl it around off the stern.

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-It's not dirty,

-it just needs a sweetener.

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-Do it in your bathroom.

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-Will the handwash solution do?

0:06:380:06:40

-Will the handwash solution do?

-

-Yes, probably.

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-But don't get a rash.

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-He's washing his underpants!

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-He's out of clean ones!

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-That's all it took.

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-I'll hang it.

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-I'll hang it.

-

-Do you know where?

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-Yes.

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-Yes.

-

-We don't have pegs.

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-I'll put it on the side.

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-I'll put it on the side.

-

-Are you sure?

0:07:030:07:04

-Spacious.

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-Can you tie it to anything?

0:07:080:07:10

-Can you tie it to anything?

-

-That red cord. It'll be safe there.

0:07:100:07:12

-Don't!

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-Don't!

-

-Sorry.

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-How's it going?

0:07:260:07:27

-How's it going?

-

-Right, here we go.

0:07:270:07:30

-Don't hoist it like a flag!

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-It'll dry, I suppose.

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-I can use it as a spinnaker,

-so that we can go faster.

0:07:400:07:44

-Is that OK?

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-It'll dry nicely up there.

0:07:450:07:47

-We've had the first course of lunch.

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-We're having kouign amann now,

-the local cake...

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-..with some creme fraiche

-from a local farm.

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-He's outside,

-waiting for his pudding...

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-..in the rain!

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-You like it, I'd say.

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-Yes.

0:08:140:08:15

-Do you know what kouign amann means?

0:08:180:08:19

-Do you know what kouign amann means?

-

-No.

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-Butter cake.

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-Kouign is cake, amann is butter.

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-I promise to make you a meal

-before the end of the voyage, OK?

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-So you'll make a meal for me before

-the end of the voyage, will you?

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-A memorable meal.

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-A memorable meal.

-

-Wow!

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-Keep an eye out, will you, Dilwyn?

0:08:420:08:45

-Fine.

0:08:450:08:46

-Eh?

0:08:460:08:47

-Uh?

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-I'll have a quick nap

-after that heavy lunch.

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-Incredible.

0:08:530:08:54

-Incredible.

0:08:550:08:56

-While John snores,

-Dilwyn has to maintain the course.

0:08:580:09:04

-We're passing

-the final headland now...

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-..before we turn into Benodet bay.

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-The wind's at force 2,

-so not much wind...

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-..but we're moving at four knots.

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-There's more wind over there!

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-Oh, dear me.

0:09:290:09:30

-I fell fast asleep.

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-For an hour, at least.

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-Dear me.

0:09:380:09:39

-Are you better now?

0:09:400:09:41

-Are you better now?

-

-Yes. Have we passed all those?

0:09:410:09:44

-Yes.

0:09:440:09:45

-We're going very slowly.

0:09:450:09:47

-I've tried everything.

0:09:470:09:49

-We're now down

-to two and a half knots.

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-Try the engine.

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-What's the hurry?

0:09:540:09:55

-We might not get there for supper.

0:09:560:09:58

-He's thinking about his stomach now!

0:09:590:10:01

-Start her up?

0:10:020:10:03

-Start her up?

-

-Yes, why not?

0:10:030:10:04

-With Benodet in sight,

-John takes the helm.

0:10:050:10:08

-But there's heavy traffic.

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-But there's heavy traffic.

-

-People are sailing in from all over.

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-Everyone together.

0:10:130:10:14

-Everyone together.

-

-Look behind us!

0:10:140:10:15

-Dozens of boats

-coming in at half past six.

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-These motorboats

-are a bloody nuisance!

0:10:210:10:25

-If you don't mind me saying,

-I'd slow down a little now...

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-..to give yourself time to think...

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-..about what you're going to do

-and where you're going to go.

0:10:320:10:36

-I've never seen so much traffic

-coming in at the same time.

0:10:370:10:41

-There we are.

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-Benodet is at the mouth of the Odet

-river, which explains the name.

0:10:440:10:48

-In summer, it's one of Brittany's

-most popular sailing centres.

0:10:490:10:54

-Hopefully, the Mystique

-can find a berth.

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-John's desperate to make land.

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-Slow down.

-The tide's sweeping us along.

0:11:060:11:09

-OK.

0:11:100:11:11

-Back you go now.

0:11:140:11:15

-OK, and the stern rope to me.

0:11:160:11:19

-Well done.

0:11:220:11:23

-He's learnt to keep his cool.

0:11:250:11:27

-Last year, he'd be in a flap,

-shouting and telling me off.

0:11:270:11:33

-He's starting to slow down and look,

-which is very important.

0:11:340:11:38

-He came in perfectly,

-and it isn't the easiest place.

0:11:390:11:43

-Well done, John Pierce Jones.

0:11:430:11:45

-.

0:11:480:11:48

-Subtitles

0:11:520:11:52

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:11:520:11:54

-The Mystique is at anchor

-in Benodet harbour.

0:11:540:11:58

-It's a popular and historic town,

-and it's packed with yachts!

0:11:580:12:02

-Benodet's a nice place.

0:12:030:12:04

-It is, isn't it?

0:12:050:12:06

-It is, isn't it?

-

-It isn't as hot to walk today.

0:12:060:12:08

-Do I get my surprise today?

0:12:080:12:10

-Do I get my surprise today?

-

-Yes.

0:12:100:12:12

-What is it?

0:12:120:12:13

-You'll see now.

0:12:130:12:14

-Is this the surprise?

0:12:190:12:20

-Is this the surprise?

-

-Yes.

0:12:200:12:21

-Bikes?

0:12:210:12:22

-Bikes?

-

-I know you like a bike.

0:12:220:12:24

-I thought you didn't like them.

0:12:240:12:25

-I thought you didn't like them.

-

-I don't, but you've been good to me.

0:12:250:12:28

-Hey, yours is electric!

0:12:290:12:31

-Hey, yours is electric!

-

-I've never ridden one.

0:12:310:12:33

-Let's give it a try.

0:12:340:12:36

-Don't go ahead of me.

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-I'm going to follow you.

0:12:380:12:40

-You enjoyed it last year.

0:12:410:12:42

-You enjoyed it last year.

-

-You go ahead of me.

0:12:420:12:44

-Are you OK?

0:12:440:12:45

-Are you OK?

-

-No.

0:12:450:12:46

-Blimey!

0:12:460:12:48

-Aaaah!

0:12:480:12:49

-Are we supposed to come this way?

-It says dead end.

0:12:540:12:57

-We're going down a one-way!

0:12:570:13:00

-We're in the market now,

-and it's very busy here.

0:13:050:13:09

-People everywhere.

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-He's cooking supper -

-meat, potatoes and veg.

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-It's his first time he's cooked

-in the whole series.

0:13:140:13:18

-This market sells everything!

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-You can get anything. Shoes,

-umbrellas, underpants, anything!

0:13:240:13:29

-Eh?

0:13:310:13:32

-Don't wear it like that.

0:13:330:13:35

-Like that?

0:13:350:13:36

-Does it fit around your head?

0:13:360:13:38

-Does it fit around your head?

-

-No, it's too small.

0:13:380:13:40

-Then don't buy it, idiot!

0:13:400:13:42

-That's the shopping done.

0:13:420:13:45

-Now to find the way back, safely.

0:13:450:13:47

-Which side are we, Dil?

0:13:470:13:48

-Which side are we, Dil?

-

-Just pass me.

0:13:480:13:49

-Which side are we?

0:13:500:13:51

-Which side?

0:13:510:13:53

-Which side?

-

-Is it the same for a bike as a car?

0:13:530:13:55

-You go on the right

-and I'll go on the left.

0:13:550:13:58

-Which side? Answer properly!

0:13:580:14:00

-Just say right or left.

0:14:010:14:02

-Right.

0:14:030:14:05

-Are you going?

0:14:060:14:07

-Are you going?

-

-Yes.

0:14:070:14:08

-He's worried about which side,

-but he ignores the sign.

0:14:090:14:14

-That means the same

-as it does at home.

0:14:140:14:17

-No entry.

0:14:170:14:19

-With the food in the bags,

-Dilwyn heads back to the marina...

0:14:220:14:26

-..to try to set up an awning

-over the cockpit.

0:14:270:14:30

-I found this

-next to John's bed, of all places.

0:14:310:14:34

-John thought it was a sail.

0:14:340:14:36

-It's actually a cover,

-a canopy for the stern of the boat.

0:14:370:14:40

-Any yacht that sails in the Med has

-one of these, because of the heat.

0:14:400:14:45

-I've never put one up before,

-but I'm going to try.

0:14:450:14:50

-John has stayed in town to learn

-how to make his dessert for tonight.

0:14:510:14:56

-He's also reminded of Wales.

0:14:570:14:59

-Bonjour.

0:14:590:15:00

-John.

0:15:000:15:01

-John.

-

-Veronique.

0:15:010:15:02

-Thanks for the flag.

0:15:020:15:03

-Thanks for the flag.

-

-Pleasure.

0:15:030:15:04

-I saw this place

-advertising crepe-making lessons...

0:15:060:15:11

-..so as I quite like them...

0:15:110:15:13

-..so as I quite like them...

-

-Magnifique!

0:15:130:15:14

-Magnifique!

0:15:140:15:15

-This isn't making much sense.

0:15:190:15:21

-I'm glad John

-can't see me struggling.

0:15:220:15:24

-Too hot!

0:15:260:15:27

-Yes, yes...

0:15:320:15:33

-Perfect.

0:15:420:15:43

-It's very cosy...

0:15:460:15:48

-..but there isn't much

-headroom for him!

0:15:480:15:51

-It's unusual to see Dilwyn

-struggling with anything...

0:15:540:15:58

-..but not so much in John's case.

0:15:590:16:01

-Superb!

0:16:110:16:12

-Superb!

0:16:140:16:15

-My first-ever crepe!

0:16:160:16:19

-You're witnesses!

0:16:190:16:21

-Superb!

0:16:230:16:24

-Dilwyn! Haven't you done that yet?

0:16:270:16:30

-Dilwyn! Haven't you done that yet?

-

-I've never done it before.

0:16:300:16:32

-I can't work out how to do it.

0:16:320:16:35

-It's back to front.

0:16:350:16:37

-I thought this stuff

-was second nature to you.

0:16:380:16:41

-Aargh! Watch my head!

0:16:440:16:46

-I can't do it.

0:16:460:16:47

-That's not in the spirit

-of the trip, Dilwyn.

0:16:480:16:52

-"I can't do it!"

0:16:520:16:54

-I never heard such a thing.

0:16:550:16:57

-What's he been doing all afternoon?

0:16:580:17:00

-I've tried it John's way,

-and now I'm trying it my way again.

0:17:010:17:05

-I think my way's the right way.

0:17:050:17:07

-I nearly lost my rag!

0:17:080:17:09

-I told you how to do it,

-and I was right, wasn't I?

0:17:110:17:14

-With the awning in place,

-where's that meal John promised?

0:17:160:17:20

-I've still had to prepare

-the potatoes and the carrots.

0:17:200:17:24

-He's asked me to make the salad,

-and I've got the barbecue out.

0:17:240:17:29

-And he won't know how to light it.

0:17:290:17:32

-I can't light the bloody thing!

0:17:320:17:34

-Dilwyn?

0:17:340:17:35

-Will you come up and light it?

0:17:360:17:38

-Will you come up and light it?

-

-I'd like to say no.

0:17:380:17:40

-Oh! Bloody thing! I can't do it!

0:17:400:17:43

-Ouch!

0:17:430:17:45

-Dilwyn!

0:17:450:17:46

-Bring it here.

0:17:470:17:48

-What's the point

-having a barbecue you can't light?

0:17:500:17:53

-Is it coming?

0:17:560:17:57

-Is it coming?

-

-Here you are!

0:17:570:17:59

-Bring it here then!

0:17:590:18:01

-Where shall I put it?

0:18:020:18:04

-Where shall I put it?

-

-In the **** hole!

0:18:040:18:06

-Which hole? You're the expert.

0:18:070:18:09

-Which hole? You're the expert.

-

-That one. Don't try to be stupid.

0:18:090:18:12

-Well, Dilwyn.

0:18:170:18:18

-I've spoilt you tonight.

0:18:190:18:20

-What can I say?

0:18:210:18:22

-A wonderful meal.

0:18:230:18:24

-Thank you.

0:18:250:18:26

-Thank you.

-

-A fantastic location.

0:18:260:18:27

-I've prepared a feast.

0:18:280:18:29

-I've prepared a feast.

-

-In Benodet.

0:18:290:18:30

-The following morning,

-they take a trip upriver.

0:18:400:18:43

-Quimper today, like two tourists.

0:18:440:18:46

-Quimper today, like two tourists.

-

-Yes.

0:18:460:18:47

-We're going on a tourist riverboat.

0:18:470:18:50

-It'll be nice to sit back

-and let someone else work.

0:18:500:18:53

-You're smart.

0:18:530:18:54

-You're smart.

-

-And you.

0:18:540:18:55

-We've both made an effort.

0:18:550:18:57

-We're going to see people!

0:18:570:18:59

-What's this Quimper like?

0:19:020:19:04

-What's this Quimper like?

-

-It's a lovely historic place.

0:19:040:19:07

-It's the local centre

-of the Breton language and culture.

0:19:070:19:11

-And good places to eat, no doubt.

0:19:110:19:13

-Yes, excellent.

0:19:140:19:15

-The riverboat goes up the Odet,

-one of Brittany's finest rivers.

0:19:230:19:28

-There's a sharp bend coming up.

-I'm glad I'm not on the Mystique!

0:19:300:19:34

-The river's getting narrow,

-but it's a lovely trip.

0:19:350:19:38

-Quimper is the capital

-of the Finisterre department...

0:19:410:19:47

-..and the heart of Breton culture.

0:19:480:19:51

-How are you? John.

0:19:560:19:57

-Hello, how are you?

0:19:580:19:59

-It's a bit windy in Quimper today.

0:20:000:20:02

-But the weather's lovely.

0:20:020:20:04

-It's always like this.

0:20:050:20:07

-It's a lovely place.

0:20:070:20:09

-Whenever I think of Quimper,

-I think of this square.

0:20:090:20:13

-And the church.

0:20:130:20:14

-It's a wonderful church.

0:20:150:20:16

-To which saint is it dedicated?

0:20:170:20:19

-The first bishop of this bishopric,

-Saint Corentin.

0:20:190:20:24

-Quarantine?

0:20:240:20:25

-Corentin.

0:20:250:20:26

-The town was once called

-Quimper-Corentin.

0:20:260:20:29

-Is the city important

-to the traditional Breton culture?

0:20:300:20:35

-Breton music and dance

-is very important.

0:20:350:20:41

-The language is less so,

-unfortunately.

0:20:410:20:45

-Not yet.

0:20:450:20:46

-On this square

-is the old bishop's palace.

0:20:500:20:53

-It's Gothic, is it?

0:20:540:20:55

-It's Gothic, is it?

-

-Yes.

0:20:550:20:56

-The cathedral is Gothic.

0:20:560:20:58

-Also in Quimper,

-across the river, is Locmaria.

0:20:580:21:01

-Locmaria church is Romanesque,

-fourth to sixth century.

0:21:010:21:05

-This cathedral dates back

-to the 13th to 15th centuries.

0:21:060:21:10

-What's that large stone there?

0:21:110:21:13

-It's said that women come to it...

0:21:160:21:18

-..and rub their bellies

-in order to get pregnant.

0:21:190:21:24

-Rubbing their bellies on the stone

-gave them some higher power.

0:21:240:21:29

-The power of belief

-is very important!

0:21:300:21:33

-Yes, belief is important.

0:21:330:21:35

-Thank you very much.

0:21:360:21:37

-I really enjoyed that.

0:21:380:21:39

-Local knowledge. Thank you.

0:21:390:21:41

-Thank you very much.

0:21:420:21:43

-Excellent.

0:21:440:21:45

-The next morning,

-it's time to leave Benodet.

0:21:590:22:02

-But Dilwyn has a challenge for John.

0:22:030:22:06

-Well, we're about to leave Benodet.

0:22:060:22:09

-Before we go,

-I have something to tell you.

0:22:090:22:12

-Your skippering role

-has been a bit off and on.

0:22:120:22:16

-Sometimes, you skipper

-and sometimes, you don't.

0:22:170:22:21

-From here to Concarneau,

-you are the skipper.

0:22:210:22:26

-I won't do anything...

0:22:260:22:28

-..or touch any switch or rope

-unless you tell me to do so.

0:22:280:22:32

-OK.

0:22:320:22:33

-But I can tell you what to do?

0:22:330:22:36

-You can tell me what to do...

0:22:360:22:38

-..but I won't show

-any initiative whatsoever.

0:22:380:22:41

-OK.

0:22:410:22:42

-OK.

-

-Shake on it then.

0:22:420:22:43

-Consider this to be

-your Board of Trade exam!

0:22:440:22:47

-OK, disconnect the electricity.

0:22:480:22:50

-OK?

0:22:550:22:56

-Fine, thanks.

0:22:570:22:58

-Fine, thanks.

-

-Sweet.

0:22:580:22:59

-Coil the ropes, please.

0:22:590:23:00

-Well, we're on the way.

0:23:040:23:06

-As I said, I won't do anything

-unless he asks me or tells me to.

0:23:080:23:12

-We'll see how we get on.

0:23:130:23:14

-We're on the wrong side

-of these boats. Is that safe?

0:23:150:23:19

-What?

0:23:190:23:20

-What?

-

-That way.

0:23:200:23:21

-Oh, Dilwyn!

0:23:210:23:22

-Don't be daft.

-I was going for that green one.

0:23:230:23:26

-Yes, it's quite a challenge, Dilwyn.

0:23:280:23:31

-Will you reach Concarneau safely?

0:23:310:23:34

-BLEEP

0:23:340:23:36

-BLEEP

-

-There's a lot of bleeping!

0:23:360:23:37

-We'll see next time on Codi Hwyl.

0:23:380:23:40

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

0:23:560:23:58

-.

0:23:580:23:58

Bydd John a Dilwyn yn hwylio i Benodet /Benoded lle byddan nhw'n ymweld a'r farchnad leol. Dilwyn and John visit Benodet where they visit a Breton market and John tries to make crepes.