Benodet- Quimper Codi Hwyl

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-The last time, Dilwyn Morgan

-and John Pierce Jones...

-..were roaming

-Douarnenez's narrow streets.

-They received a warm welcome

-and a memorable farewell.

-Leaving Douarnenez in the mist,

-they took sweet memories along...

-..of the town

-that Meic Stevens immortalized.

-Nice, eh? What a place.

-I was very fond of that town.

-I was very fond of that town.

-

-I was too.

-And the people, yet again.

-It was so laid back,

-everyone let you get on with it.

-Do you know what I mean?

-You could do as you liked,

-no petty restrictions.

-Very bohemian, and a great place

-to have a good time.

-They knew how to have fun.

-I see now why Meic Stevens liked it.

-I see now why Meic Stevens liked it.

-

-Yes.

-I'll miss this place again.

-It's the same wherever we go.

-Wow!

-We're privileged to see this view.

-Look!

-Look!

-

-I know.

-Incredible, isn't it?

-I'll need a course from you soon.

-Tell me when.

-Cap du Raz.

-It's one of the toughest places

-we've been to.

-In Europe. The strongest tide.

-We've been to the Mizzen.

-Fastnet.

-Haven't we?

-Haven't we?

-

-Yes. Land's End.

-Land's End, Bardsey Sound...

-..The Swellies...

-Everyone said the Chenal du Four,

-but that was OK.

-But so much has been written

-about getting through here...

-That's what I did yesterday.

-I did a bit of work on this place.

-I did a bit of work on this place.

-

-Did you?

-Yes.

-Yes.

-

-It's good to know you've been busy.

-It's vital that John

-has plotted the course perfectly...

-..so that the Mystique can pass

-through the Raz de Sein channel...

-..when the tide is at its weakest,

-or it could mean the end for them.

-They face a 60-mile trip,

-some twelve hours, to Benodet.

-Are we OK?

-We're late.

-What do you mean, late?

-I'd like to be off the point now,

-because it's slack water there...

-..at nine o'clock,

-the best time to go through.

-But with every hour that passes now,

-the tide will grow in strength.

-Taking us down too fast?

-Yes, it'll be taking us down,

-and we'll have less control.

-Are you worried?

-Are you worried?

-

-I'm worried that we're late, yes.

-I'd be happier if we were an hour

-further up the course.

-It is a dangerous place, is it?

-Among the most dangerous

-in Europe, tide-wise.

-It's narrow,

-and the seabed is rocky.

-It churns up the water

-like a washing machine.

-You've made we worried now.

-After this headland,

-you'll have to bear down a bit.

-OK, bearing in mind that the tide

-will carry me sideways here.

-I prefer to go further out,

-so don't turn me too soon.

-There are some rocks there.

-You need to go between these rocks

-and the rough water.

-I can see Pointe du Raz.

-I can see the tower.

-The Pointe du Raz lighthouse

-is a famous image on posters...

-..being battered by the waves.

-..being battered by the waves.

-

-You can see the rough water to port.

-You need to direct me past that.

-La Vieille, the old lady, is

-the lighthouse that leads ships...

-..past the rocky headland

-of Beg ar Raz.

-This is the most westerly point

-in France.

-The Atlantic's over there.

-On the French mainland, obviously.

-It's like Lands' End, in a way.

-So many ships have sunk here.

-This place is full of wrecks.

-The timing of your stories

-is unbelievable.

-Why?

-I don't want to hear

-about shipwrecks...

-..and people dying, not now.

-Leave it until later.

-Leave it until later.

-

-But we're here now.

-We're not going to sink, are we?

-The Bretons call it Penn ar Bed,

-the end of the world.

-They once believed

-that this was the end of the world.

-When anyone died, they left here

-and the next world was over there.

-Good, eh?

-Good, eh?

-

-Yes.

-We've come through it.

-Congratulations, Dilwyn.

-Congratulations, Dilwyn.

-

-And the same to you, John.

-Another one to tick off.

-I must say,

-that was exciting and nervous.

-And you helmed it too,

-not the autopilot.

-It was down to the preparation.

-You were busy yesterday.

-You were busy yesterday.

-

-All day.

-Well, we're still going.

-A little bit of sail

-to keep it steady, and the engine.

-There's no wind.

-I've seen something

-on the surface ahead of us.

-It might be a shoal of fish.

-There are birds feeding there...

-..as well as dolphins,

-so there's something there.

-We'll see.

-Those dolphins are feasting

-over there. Look at them.

-I'm going to wash my underpants.

-Your underpants?

-Yes, I'm out of clean ones.

-Oh, OK.

-I'll use the sink.

-Not where we cook!

-Not where we cook!

-

-Why not?

-Swirl it around off the stern.

-It's not dirty,

-it just needs a sweetener.

-Do it in your bathroom.

-Will the handwash solution do?

-Will the handwash solution do?

-

-Yes, probably.

-But don't get a rash.

-He's washing his underpants!

-He's out of clean ones!

-That's all it took.

-I'll hang it.

-I'll hang it.

-

-Do you know where?

-Yes.

-Yes.

-

-We don't have pegs.

-I'll put it on the side.

-I'll put it on the side.

-

-Are you sure?

-Spacious.

-Can you tie it to anything?

-Can you tie it to anything?

-

-That red cord. It'll be safe there.

-Don't!

-Don't!

-

-Sorry.

-How's it going?

-How's it going?

-

-Right, here we go.

-Don't hoist it like a flag!

-It'll dry, I suppose.

-I can use it as a spinnaker,

-so that we can go faster.

-Is that OK?

-It'll dry nicely up there.

-We've had the first course of lunch.

-We're having kouign amann now,

-the local cake...

-..with some creme fraiche

-from a local farm.

-He's outside,

-waiting for his pudding...

-..in the rain!

-You like it, I'd say.

-Yes.

-Do you know what kouign amann means?

-Do you know what kouign amann means?

-

-No.

-Butter cake.

-Kouign is cake, amann is butter.

-I promise to make you a meal

-before the end of the voyage, OK?

-So you'll make a meal for me before

-the end of the voyage, will you?

-A memorable meal.

-A memorable meal.

-

-Wow!

-Keep an eye out, will you, Dilwyn?

-Fine.

-Eh?

-Uh?

-I'll have a quick nap

-after that heavy lunch.

-Incredible.

-Incredible.

-While John snores,

-Dilwyn has to maintain the course.

-We're passing

-the final headland now...

-..before we turn into Benodet bay.

-The wind's at force 2,

-so not much wind...

-..but we're moving at four knots.

-There's more wind over there!

-Oh, dear me.

-I fell fast asleep.

-For an hour, at least.

-Dear me.

-Are you better now?

-Are you better now?

-

-Yes. Have we passed all those?

-Yes.

-We're going very slowly.

-I've tried everything.

-We're now down

-to two and a half knots.

-Try the engine.

-What's the hurry?

-We might not get there for supper.

-He's thinking about his stomach now!

-Start her up?

-Start her up?

-

-Yes, why not?

-With Benodet in sight,

-John takes the helm.

-But there's heavy traffic.

-But there's heavy traffic.

-

-People are sailing in from all over.

-Everyone together.

-Everyone together.

-

-Look behind us!

-Dozens of boats

-coming in at half past six.

-These motorboats

-are a bloody nuisance!

-If you don't mind me saying,

-I'd slow down a little now...

-..to give yourself time to think...

-..about what you're going to do

-and where you're going to go.

-I've never seen so much traffic

-coming in at the same time.

-There we are.

-Benodet is at the mouth of the Odet

-river, which explains the name.

-In summer, it's one of Brittany's

-most popular sailing centres.

-Hopefully, the Mystique

-can find a berth.

-John's desperate to make land.

-Slow down.

-The tide's sweeping us along.

-OK.

-Back you go now.

-OK, and the stern rope to me.

-Well done.

-He's learnt to keep his cool.

-Last year, he'd be in a flap,

-shouting and telling me off.

-He's starting to slow down and look,

-which is very important.

-He came in perfectly,

-and it isn't the easiest place.

-Well done, John Pierce Jones.

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-Subtitles

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

-The Mystique is at anchor

-in Benodet harbour.

-It's a popular and historic town,

-and it's packed with yachts!

-Benodet's a nice place.

-It is, isn't it?

-It is, isn't it?

-

-It isn't as hot to walk today.

-Do I get my surprise today?

-Do I get my surprise today?

-

-Yes.

-What is it?

-You'll see now.

-Is this the surprise?

-Is this the surprise?

-

-Yes.

-Bikes?

-Bikes?

-

-I know you like a bike.

-I thought you didn't like them.

-I thought you didn't like them.

-

-I don't, but you've been good to me.

-Hey, yours is electric!

-Hey, yours is electric!

-

-I've never ridden one.

-Let's give it a try.

-Don't go ahead of me.

-I'm going to follow you.

-You enjoyed it last year.

-You enjoyed it last year.

-

-You go ahead of me.

-Are you OK?

-Are you OK?

-

-No.

-Blimey!

-Aaaah!

-Are we supposed to come this way?

-It says dead end.

-We're going down a one-way!

-We're in the market now,

-and it's very busy here.

-People everywhere.

-He's cooking supper -

-meat, potatoes and veg.

-It's his first time he's cooked

-in the whole series.

-This market sells everything!

-You can get anything. Shoes,

-umbrellas, underpants, anything!

-Eh?

-Don't wear it like that.

-Like that?

-Does it fit around your head?

-Does it fit around your head?

-

-No, it's too small.

-Then don't buy it, idiot!

-That's the shopping done.

-Now to find the way back, safely.

-Which side are we, Dil?

-Which side are we, Dil?

-

-Just pass me.

-Which side are we?

-Which side?

-Which side?

-

-Is it the same for a bike as a car?

-You go on the right

-and I'll go on the left.

-Which side? Answer properly!

-Just say right or left.

-Right.

-Are you going?

-Are you going?

-

-Yes.

-He's worried about which side,

-but he ignores the sign.

-That means the same

-as it does at home.

-No entry.

-With the food in the bags,

-Dilwyn heads back to the marina...

-..to try to set up an awning

-over the cockpit.

-I found this

-next to John's bed, of all places.

-John thought it was a sail.

-It's actually a cover,

-a canopy for the stern of the boat.

-Any yacht that sails in the Med has

-one of these, because of the heat.

-I've never put one up before,

-but I'm going to try.

-John has stayed in town to learn

-how to make his dessert for tonight.

-He's also reminded of Wales.

-Bonjour.

-John.

-John.

-

-Veronique.

-Thanks for the flag.

-Thanks for the flag.

-

-Pleasure.

-I saw this place

-advertising crepe-making lessons...

-..so as I quite like them...

-..so as I quite like them...

-

-Magnifique!

-Magnifique!

-This isn't making much sense.

-I'm glad John

-can't see me struggling.

-Too hot!

-Yes, yes...

-Perfect.

-It's very cosy...

-..but there isn't much

-headroom for him!

-It's unusual to see Dilwyn

-struggling with anything...

-..but not so much in John's case.

-Superb!

-Superb!

-My first-ever crepe!

-You're witnesses!

-Superb!

-Dilwyn! Haven't you done that yet?

-Dilwyn! Haven't you done that yet?

-

-I've never done it before.

-I can't work out how to do it.

-It's back to front.

-I thought this stuff

-was second nature to you.

-Aargh! Watch my head!

-I can't do it.

-That's not in the spirit

-of the trip, Dilwyn.

-"I can't do it!"

-I never heard such a thing.

-What's he been doing all afternoon?

-I've tried it John's way,

-and now I'm trying it my way again.

-I think my way's the right way.

-I nearly lost my rag!

-I told you how to do it,

-and I was right, wasn't I?

-With the awning in place,

-where's that meal John promised?

-I've still had to prepare

-the potatoes and the carrots.

-He's asked me to make the salad,

-and I've got the barbecue out.

-And he won't know how to light it.

-I can't light the bloody thing!

-Dilwyn?

-Will you come up and light it?

-Will you come up and light it?

-

-I'd like to say no.

-Oh! Bloody thing! I can't do it!

-Ouch!

-Dilwyn!

-Bring it here.

-What's the point

-having a barbecue you can't light?

-Is it coming?

-Is it coming?

-

-Here you are!

-Bring it here then!

-Where shall I put it?

-Where shall I put it?

-

-In the **** hole!

-Which hole? You're the expert.

-Which hole? You're the expert.

-

-That one. Don't try to be stupid.

-Well, Dilwyn.

-I've spoilt you tonight.

-What can I say?

-A wonderful meal.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

-

-A fantastic location.

-I've prepared a feast.

-I've prepared a feast.

-

-In Benodet.

-The following morning,

-they take a trip upriver.

-Quimper today, like two tourists.

-Quimper today, like two tourists.

-

-Yes.

-We're going on a tourist riverboat.

-It'll be nice to sit back

-and let someone else work.

-You're smart.

-You're smart.

-

-And you.

-We've both made an effort.

-We're going to see people!

-What's this Quimper like?

-What's this Quimper like?

-

-It's a lovely historic place.

-It's the local centre

-of the Breton language and culture.

-And good places to eat, no doubt.

-Yes, excellent.

-The riverboat goes up the Odet,

-one of Brittany's finest rivers.

-There's a sharp bend coming up.

-I'm glad I'm not on the Mystique!

-The river's getting narrow,

-but it's a lovely trip.

-Quimper is the capital

-of the Finisterre department...

-..and the heart of Breton culture.

-How are you? John.

-Hello, how are you?

-It's a bit windy in Quimper today.

-But the weather's lovely.

-It's always like this.

-It's a lovely place.

-Whenever I think of Quimper,

-I think of this square.

-And the church.

-It's a wonderful church.

-To which saint is it dedicated?

-The first bishop of this bishopric,

-Saint Corentin.

-Quarantine?

-Corentin.

-The town was once called

-Quimper-Corentin.

-Is the city important

-to the traditional Breton culture?

-Breton music and dance

-is very important.

-The language is less so,

-unfortunately.

-Not yet.

-On this square

-is the old bishop's palace.

-It's Gothic, is it?

-It's Gothic, is it?

-

-Yes.

-The cathedral is Gothic.

-Also in Quimper,

-across the river, is Locmaria.

-Locmaria church is Romanesque,

-fourth to sixth century.

-This cathedral dates back

-to the 13th to 15th centuries.

-What's that large stone there?

-It's said that women come to it...

-..and rub their bellies

-in order to get pregnant.

-Rubbing their bellies on the stone

-gave them some higher power.

-The power of belief

-is very important!

-Yes, belief is important.

-Thank you very much.

-I really enjoyed that.

-Local knowledge. Thank you.

-Thank you very much.

-Excellent.

-The next morning,

-it's time to leave Benodet.

-But Dilwyn has a challenge for John.

-Well, we're about to leave Benodet.

-Before we go,

-I have something to tell you.

-Your skippering role

-has been a bit off and on.

-Sometimes, you skipper

-and sometimes, you don't.

-From here to Concarneau,

-you are the skipper.

-I won't do anything...

-..or touch any switch or rope

-unless you tell me to do so.

-OK.

-But I can tell you what to do?

-You can tell me what to do...

-..but I won't show

-any initiative whatsoever.

-OK.

-OK.

-

-Shake on it then.

-Consider this to be

-your Board of Trade exam!

-OK, disconnect the electricity.

-OK?

-Fine, thanks.

-Fine, thanks.

-

-Sweet.

-Coil the ropes, please.

-Well, we're on the way.

-As I said, I won't do anything

-unless he asks me or tells me to.

-We'll see how we get on.

-We're on the wrong side

-of these boats. Is that safe?

-What?

-What?

-

-That way.

-Oh, Dilwyn!

-Don't be daft.

-I was going for that green one.

-Yes, it's quite a challenge, Dilwyn.

-Will you reach Concarneau safely?

-BLEEP

-BLEEP

-

-There's a lot of bleeping!

-We'll see next time on Codi Hwyl.

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

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