Douarnenez Codi Hwyl

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-The last time, we saw Dilwyn,

-but not John...

-..having fun

-on jet skis off Brest...

-..before sailing up the Elorn river

-to Landerneau.

-It's time to leave Landerneau.

-It's back down the Elorn...

-..but not before John

-finds the all-important gadget.

-The iPad.

-I'll put the iPad here.

-That's another lesson he's learnt,

-fair play.

-A clean ship is a happy ship.

-These decks need cleaning.

-Some dust and dirt

-has appeared overnight.

-It's everywhere.

-We'll need a cloth and a hosepipe

-in a marina somewhere.

-OK.

-OK, captain. Anchors aweigh!

-Off they go, with John's hands

-steady at the helm.

-John's taking her this morning,

-downriver and under the bridges...

-..while I do some crewing work.

-Tidying ropes,

-storing the tender and so on.

-It's good experience for him.

-He's doing the navigation today,

-all the way to Douarnenez.

-It's his day today.

-The commands will be flying!

-I'm in charge of the boat today.

-Choosing which sails,

-which route and which tack.

-I'll also plot the course

-and feed it into the autopilot.

-By tonight, hopefully,

-we'll have dropped anchor...

-..at the Douarnenez-Treboul marina.

-The new land.

-I'll learn the song.

-I want to do everything

-that the song mentions.

-Fish in the morning,

-narrow streets, the market.

-Everything in Meic Stevens's song.

-To reach Douarnenez...

-..the Mystique must pass Brest

-and the headland of Camaret-sur-Mer.

-It's an eight-hour voyage

-of some 40 miles...

-..under the command

-of Captain John Pierce Jones.

-John has a huge smile on his face.

-I felt myself taking over,

-but he's the skipper.

-I'm backing off

-and giving him his head.

-We've left the mooring

-and sailed down the river.

-He's also plotting a course.

-A year or two ago,

-he'd have no idea how to do that.

-But he's skippering now,

-so good luck to him.

-Here it is.

-Here it is.

-

-Yes.

-Where will you put it?

-Where will you put it?

-

-Here, I think.

-Oh, yes. They're there.

-There's another sail in here.

-Yes, I want to use it.

-Shall I get it out now then?

-Shall I get it out now then?

-

-Yes.

-Put it on top there.

-I'm volunteering work for myself.

-I want to try what they call

-a chute, like a parachute sail.

-One more sail.

-A cruising chute, but he isn't...

-Well...

-He isn't keen,

-I'll put it like that.

-It's there for you.

-Ready to go up, captain.

-Thank you.

-I want you

-to take the helm for a minute.

-I need to plot a course.

-OK.

-No rush. When you're ready.

-But don't be too long.

-Now, you mean?

-No, take a minute or two.

-Oddly, no mention of a cuppa.

-It's best not to offer.

-Hold back, today, Dil, hold back.

-Dilwyn doesn't get much rest.

-He has to steer the course

-that John has plotted...

-..avoiding any hazards

-marked by cardinal buoys.

-Keep inside the red ones...

-..and stay well inland

-of the cardinal buoy.

-The western cardinal.

-The western cardinal.

-

-I see it.

-Straight across from here.

-I can see them all.

-Take a break, Dil.

-Quite a busy morning, John.

-A cuppa would be nice.

-Before that cuppa,

-they must pass these perilous rocks.

-But the wind is up,

-so they can hoist the sails.

-Are you OK, Dil?

-Are you OK, Dil?

-

-Champion.

-Take a break, Dil.

-We haven't done the log yet.

-We haven't done the log yet.

-

-No.

-When you get your breath back,

-fetch it and show me how to do it.

-I'm not sure what to do,

-but I'll do it after you show me.

-OK.

-He's enjoying himself today.

-This was a good move.

-He's playing

-more of a part in the voyage.

-He has all the knowledge,

-but he's afraid to use it.

-That might be my fault.

-It's going well today.

-A good day so far.

-This is why I bought a boat.

-To sail like this.

-We're not going fast,

-just under four knots.

-But no matter.

-The weather's fine,

-the sails are up and it's quiet.

-The steward is down below,

-making the captain's dinner.

-Ugh! This has to go over the side.

-Throw the ham, mate.

-I don't like to waste food.

-His idea of smelly

-is very different to mine.

-No, it doesn't smell at all.

-It doesn't smell.

-It doesn't smell at all.

-No smell.

-Do you want me to throw it?

-Do you want me to throw it?

-

-Yes, please.

-Lovely ham.

-Bread and butter for me and Geoff.

-No sausages.

-It's getting warmer

-as we head south.

-You can feel it.

-The front sail isn't doing much.

-It's in the shadow of the other one.

-It's in the shadow of the other one.

-

-Are we going to try that other sail?

-The chute.

-I'm not sure how to do it.

-You hoist it

-then I'll know what to do next time.

-I want to try it.

-You can keep watch, grab the helm

-and take care of the gybe.

-Yes.

-I think...

-..that it's a cruising chute

-in a sock!

-Does that make any sense?

-Does that make any sense?

-

-None at all, Dilwyn.

-A cruising chute in a sock...

-..is ideal for a solo sailor

-or for an inexperienced crew.

-As can happen sometimes.

-The sail is inside this sausage.

-You hoist the sausage...

-..then you pull the sausage

-off the sail, and it opens up.

-To take it down,

-you snuff it, as they say.

-What's that?

-Snuffing it involves

-pulling the sock down over it...

-..and you end up

-with a sausage again.

-I like sausage.

-The sausage is up.

-Let's see what comes out.

-A few mice, perhaps?

-A nest or two wouldn't surprise me.

-Is it coming?

-Is it coming?

-

-I've found something.

-It's working.

-It's partially up.

-Well done, Dil.

-With a bit more wind,

-we'd fly along.

-Look at the Mystique, mate!

-Wow!

-It's a pretty sail.

-It's a pretty sail.

-

-Yes, isn't it?

-It's in a fairly good condition.

-It's in a fairly good condition.

-

-It's champion. Three knots now.

-From one and a half to three.

-Do you know what I've got here?

-Do you know what I've got here?

-

-No.

-The words of Douarnenez,

-Meic Stevens's song.

-It's within sight,

-and we'll be there in an hour.

-I want to do everything

-that he mentions in the song.

-In Douarnenez.

-In Douarnenez.

-

-What does he say?

-"Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-fish in the morning."

-Fine, OK.

-A fish to eat.

-"Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-boats by the quay."

-We'll do that on our boat.

-"Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-today at its best."

-It's a lovely day today.

-Excellent sailing.

-"Bombards, binious, drums beating

-of an evening in Douarnenez."

-I want to hear

-traditional music in Douarnenez.

-"By the church, I was dancing

-at a fest noz in Douarnenez."

-We might get a fest noz.

-"We'll go back soon

-across the sea to Douarnenez.

-"We'll walk the narrow streets

-and eat moules in Douarnenez."

-We'll have to eat moules as well.

-We'll have to eat moules as well.

-

-It gets better by the minute!

-It sounds like fun.

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-fish in the morning

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-boats by the quay #

-Mystique calling

-Port Rhu marina, over.

-This is Port Rhu marina.

-We'll be arriving

-in approximately 40 minutes, over.

-OK, no problem.

-# In the market, fish and bustle

-# At the water's edge

-in Douarnenez, Douarnenez #

-I can see the next red one.

-Can you see it?

-Am I alright?

-Back seat bloody driver, Dilwyn!

-Back seat bloody driver, Dilwyn!

-

-You need to see it.

-I can see it, Dilwyn.

-I can see it, Dilwyn.

-

-OK, I'll let you be.

-# At its best

-# Douarnenez, in the sun,

-boats by the quay #

-There's another yacht

-flying the Red Dragon there.

-Behind the one with blue fenders.

-Am I heading for those gates?

-They're opening now.

-That's perfect timing.

-Keep away, let that boat go first.

-They didn't time it as well as you.

-They probably had to wait there.

-They probably had to wait there.

-

-They just waved thank you.

-If I'm in any doubt,

-I let everyone go.

-That's a good policy.

-If you're unsure, keep clear.

-Go round, let them go.

-The healthiest skin

-is a coward's skin.

-The healthiest skin

-is a coward's skin.

-It's true at sea too.

-# Douarnenez, fish in the morning

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-fish by the quay

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-today at its best #

-OK?

-OK?

-

-OK, stop it now then.

-Perfect. I've got it.

-Perfect. I've got it.

-

-The stern's drifting!

-Hurry. Hurry!

-Got it.

-There we are.

-We came in quite tidily

-and we stopped.

-He took the first berth,

-as you would do normally.

-We'll stay for a bit, then he can

-go and ask since he's the skipper.

-A glass of cider will be nice,

-for the nerves if nothing else!

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-Subtitles

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

-The next morning, the sun's shining

-and the boats are in the harbour.

-The market has been busy

-since the early morning...

-..and Dilwyn and John

-want fresh produce for the boat.

-They say

-that everyone buys locally.

-You don't need a fridge here.

-You come here in the morning

-and buy all you need for the day.

-There's a butcher's shop there.

-Everyone buys locally,

-and this is all local produce.

-Shopping is clearly

-an experience for them.

-Shopping, then coffee and a chat.

-When and where did you learn Welsh?

-When and where did you learn Welsh?

-

-In Lampeter.

-The crash course at the university.

-I won't stop you. Thank you. Ta-ra!

-This woman stopped us and asked,

-in Welsh, if we spoke Welsh.

-We're in Douarnenez!

-Incredible.

-The smell

-takes me back to my childhood.

-Fish in the morning!

-The song.

-Look at these.

-Look at these.

-

-And the crabs.

-Mussels, winkles.

-It's one of the best places

-to buy fish in town.

-Everyone buys fresh.

-No-one freezes them.

-Look, your favourites!

-Look, your favourites!

-

-Ugh!

-We're shopping for tomorrow now.

-He's bought stuff that might

-not keep without a fridge.

-I'm buying some quiche

-for lunch tomorrow.

-I'll have to order it

-in my best French.

-Uh, yes. Merci.

-Pour trois personnes.

-The shopping's done.

-I'd like to get some fruit.

-Local strawberries are in season.

-We'll have them with creme fraiche.

-This way.

-Leaving the market, John's mind

-is back on Meic Stevens's song.

-Narrow streets in Douarnenez.

-After shopping, there's work to do

-aboard the Mystique.

-That's down to Dilwyn, naturally.

-This is the harbourmaster's office.

-We have to pay, you see.

-The skipper owner

-is supposed to do it...

-..but I don't know where John is.

-I'll get it out of the way,

-again with my best French.

-Watch this.

-Bonjour, Monsieur.

-Je vous payer

-pour le bateau Mystique.

-Merci.

-Did you notice the French?

-I've got it.

-Dilwyn has to pay to moor Mystique

-in Douarnenez harbour.

-John has more shopping to do.

-John has more shopping to do.

-

-That's what I want.

-A treat for number one.

-Kouign-amann.

-Butter cake.

-Nous depart...

-..tomorrow, um...

-..sept heures.

-The doors open at seven o'clock,

-and close at quarter past ten.

-Oui. Nous allez Benodet.

-OK.

-OK.

-

-OK, merci.

-Thank you very much. Bye.

-John has arranged to meet

-Breton singer Nolwenn Korbell.

-She once lived

-and performed in Wales.

-Nolwenn, how are you?

-Nolwenn, how are you?

-

-Are you alright?

-Welcome.

-Welcome.

-

-Thank you.

-It's lovely.

-It's like this every day!

-Dilwyn also knows someone who lives

-in the town, Robert Kamlin.

-So you live here now.

-So you live here now.

-

-Yes, for the past six years.

-Do you hail from Montgomeryshire?

-No, no, I'm an Irishman.

-An Irishman

-who moved to Montgomeryshire...

-..who speaks with a strong

-Montgomeryshire accent...

-..and now lives in Douarnenez.

-Looking at you,

-it's a nice life here.

-It's heaven on earth here.

-It suits me just fine.

-Weather, food, beer...

-We'll stop there!

-Are you from Douarnenez?

-I've lived here for a long time.

-Did you go to school here?

-Primary school.

-Breton?

-No, no, no.

-It was a French school.

-But we spoke Breton at home.

-But we spoke Breton at home.

-

-Your family speaks Breton.

-Is it a living language locally?

-How many speak it?

-How many speak it?

-

-Not many old people. It's gone.

-What about young people?

-What about young people?

-

-Maybe more young people speak it.

-It's not like Welsh

-in Wales, obviously.

-But there are Breton schools now.

-Mixed Breton and French schools.

-Bilingual schools.

-Do you still sing?

-Yes. I act and sing.

-I sing in Breton,

-and I write Breton songs.

-Do you act in the theatre?

-Yes, the theatre, and films.

-Breton films?

-Breton films?

-

-Sometimes.

-The plays that I act in

-are in French.

-I work with people outside Brittany.

-In Paris, or France generally.

-But I like this,

-because I love this place.

-That's why I live here.

-But I also love leaving sometimes.

-It's a small place,

-you know everyone.

-That's great.

-Having this in front of your eyes

-and under your nose daily is lovely.

-But doing this job,

-acting and singing...

-..it's nice to see the world.

-And you appreciate this place

-when you come back.

-All done?

-That's all I'm doing today.

-After your hard work,

-there's something on in town.

-A bit of singing and dancing.

-A meal afterwards.

-Say no more! Come on!

-We'll go to scrounge some food!

-We'll go to scrounge some food!

-

-I'm leaving it as it is.

-John's lucky.

-This is some kind of fest noz.

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-fish in the morning

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-boats by the quay

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-today at its best

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-boats by the quay #

-Singing Douarnenez in Douarnenez

-with people from Douarnenez.

-What better way to end our visit?

-Tomorrow, we're off to Benodet.

-A new dawn brings mist,

-and the Mystique leaves Douarnenez.

-This is getting thicker

-the further down we go.

-I hear music somewhere,

-even though it's so early.

-There are people on the quay.

-Roaring!

-Look!

-Where?

-Over on the right here.

-Do you know who they are?

-Do you know who they are?

-

-Who?

-We were with them last night.

-We were with them last night.

-

-The Red Dragon's waving us goodbye!

-That's incredible!

-Maybe they haven't been to bed!

-Oh, fair play!

-Goodbye!

-Goodbye!

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez,

-fish in the morning

-# Douarnenez, Douarnenez #

-Merci!

-The next time on Codi Hwyl, the boys

-sail past the perilous Beg ar Raz...

-..to the port of Benodet.

-They also visit

-the historic city of Quimper.

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

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