Pennod 1 Cymoedd Roy Noble

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-The Valleys

-have always been my home.

-Each valley with its industrial

-scars and colourful characters...

-..have left

-a lasting impression on me.

-Over the coming weeks,

-I'll revisit the Valleys...

-..and meet characters

-who are naturally welcoming.

-Why not jump on board my ride?

-I'm shifting gear

-and heading for the horizon.

-The Vale of Neath

-is also known as Waterfall Country.

-The valley's dramatic rivers

-and waterfalls...

-..are an attraction for

-many visitors and regular ramblers.

-Pontneddfechan, Glynneath...

-..Resolven and Aberdulais...

-..are all villages that lead

-to the valley's main town, Neath.

-My journey starts

-above the valley...

-..in an area that's

-very familiar to me.

-My first port-of-call is

-Craig y Dinas or Dinas Rock.

-Alun, we're at Pontneddfechan and

-it says Craig y Ddinas on the board.

-But this isn't quite true.

-It should be Craig y Dinas

-as it was home to an ancient fort.

-'Dinas' doesn't mean city

-in this context but a fort.

-The term 'Dinas' in Welsh

-is masculine...

-..so it should be Craig y Dinas.

-It's linked to Russia

-for a special reason.

-There was a brickworks here

-and they made silica bricks.

-Silica was used to line

-steel and copper furnaces.

-They can withstand

-very high temperatures...

-..and were exported to Russia.

-The Russian word for firebrick is

-dinas and derives from this area.

-Across the River Mellte...

-..there's a unique works

-that's shrouded in mystery.

-Both of us have worked

-as headmasters in this area...

-..and I haven't been here at all.

-I was only a mile or so away.

-This used to be a no-go area, Roy.

-I knew about this place

-and have roamed the area...

-..but I'd never visited the site

-of Pontneddfechan's gunpowder works.

-It was famous throughout Britain.

-I didn't realize that

-there were 60 buildings on site.

-They were close to each other

-in case one of them exploded.

-It was imperative that the site

-was in a secluded and remote spot.

-When serious explosions occurred...

-..at least the villagers

-at Pontneddfechan were safe.

-The Vale of Neath Powder Company

-opened the site in 1857...

-..but was purchased by

-Curtis and Harvey in 1862.

-They produced black gunpowder...

-..and required saltpeter,

-or potassium nitrate...

-..sulphur and charcoal.

-The surrounding woodlands

-provided the charcoal.

-Trams were used to import

-the other materials.

-They were transported by rail

-before being trammed here.

-Water was required...

-..and beneath us

-runs the River Mellte.

-Everything was sourced locally

-and there were 65 workers on site.

-They were very successful.

-Black gunpowder was used

-in Welsh quarries and coal mines...

-..to create explosions.

-In 1926, it was purchased by ICI.

-But five years later in 1931...

-..the government

-decided overnight...

-..that gunpowder was illegal.

-Therefore, the doors closed

-at the site in Pontneddfechan.

-Sgwd Yr Eira is one of the most

-idyllic waterfalls in the area.

-It's the tallest, mightiest

-and most captivating of all...

-..and thousands flock here

-to tread under the cascade of water.

-It isn't wise to do this

-on a wet day in early spring...

-..but there are a few

-who will oblige.

-This is one of your most

-sacred places in Wales.

-It's indisputably

-one of the wonders of Wales.

-Sgwd Yr Eira is on the River Hepste.

-What's the meaning of 'sgwd'?

-You mentioned that the area

-is the Waterfall Country...

-..but 'sgwd' or 'sgydau'...

-..are colloquial terms for

-waterfall in the Vale of Neath.

-Don't forget that

-many historical figures...

-..frequented the Vale of Neath.

-Turner visited Aberdulais Falls

-and roamed to the top of the valley.

-There was also

-Alfred Russel Wallace.

-He was the brains,

-not Charles Darwin.

-You could say Darwin

-was Alfred's apprentice.

-He thought this was one of

-the best places in Europe.

-Those hills and steps

-are steep on the way back.

-Let's have a coffee

-from my flask first!

-Before leaving the village,

-we make a quick stop to reminisce.

-In Easter 1974...

-..children at this school

-were put to a terrible test.

-They had a new headmaster - me!

-Thomas Stephens School,

-Pontneddfechan...

-..had to be spelt out

-over the phone many times!

-It's been closed for years.

-It's such a shame

-but the memories remain.

-We held special days

-such as pet days.

-Horses, dogs and cats were welcomed.

-But a problem ensued when a boy's

-rabbits met another boy's ferret.

-It's a huge responsibility

-and a pleasure to be a teacher.

-I hope I was an effective teacher...

-..and the children enjoyed

-during my seven years here.

-I've heard that many of them

-have been successful in life...

-..despite having me

-as their headmaster.

-The school is in a sorry state now.

-My journey continues

-further down the valley...

-..at the populated Glynneath

-which boasts a famous rugby club.

-It remains a success thanks to

-the support of this gentleman.

-Last year, 57 left Glynneath Rugby

-Club and only one saw the game.

-LAUGHTER

-And he saw it in jail.

-LAUGHTER

-Max, the locals know you well

-and will disagree with me...

-..but I'll say it anyway.

-You're regarded as a king here,

-especially at the club.

-Just like you're a prince

-in Llwyncoed!

-You're the club president.

-The club's history

-stems back over a century.

-It started back in 1889.

-The centenary

-was a week-long celebration.

-We played against every team

-in the league.

-It's steeped in history.

-It boasts a long list

-of famous players.

-Let's start with Dai Morris.

-The immortal Dai!

-Just one more guy here.

-It's David Morris.

-Dai worked down the tower

-in a pit called Number 4.

-Some say he was quarried

-from rock a mile below.

-He goes to work each morning

-much the same as you or I.

-The foreman calls him Mister

-but the children call him Dai.

-I can only describe him

-as a genuine character.

-Several of us are aware of

-a famous story about Barry John.

-It was a terrible day

-and he was in an awful state.

-He was having a bath.

-The club didn't supply any showers

-at that time.

-Dai Knoyle

-is the father of Tavis Knoyle...

-..who plays for Cardiff.

-He said, "Barry, come

-and have a bath at the house."

-"There isn't any room here

-and the baths are too small."

-Barry John climbs into the bath

-and Dai is on the phone.

-"Dad, Dad! Who do you think

-is in the bath?"

-"It's Barry John."

-"Don't leave the water out.

-We'll bottle it!"

-He could sell it then!

-You're part of this valley

-and it means so much to you.

-Famous people have visited

-and written about it.

-I read a famous publication

-by George Borrow.

-He penned the book, Wild Wales.

-In the book, he refers to Oliver

-Cromwell passing through the valley.

-Oliver Cromwell

-described the place...

-..as the finest valley

-in all Christendom.

-This is quoted

-in George Borrow's book.

-The Vale of Neath

-is opposite the Dulais Valley...

-..which is home to Banwen village.

-It's famous for two main reasons.

-It's the birthplace of St Patrick...

-..and the Banwen Miners Hunt...

-..which is famous

-in the equine and hunting world.

-When you envisage

-a hunt in your head...

-..you think of men on horseback

-wearing red jackets...

-..and posh countryside ideals.

-This hunt is different

-as it stems back to Banwen's miners.

-The Banwen Miners Hunt

-has derived from the working man.

-Men stepped out of the mines

-and hunted on horseback.

-There isn't anything posh about it!

-It started back in the 1960s.

-The first hunt was held in 1962.

-There were a few hunts

-prior to this...

-..but it officially started

-in this year.

-Did the miners have horses?

-Yes, they used mountain ponies.

-They didn't use posh ones!

-They just came out of the mines.

-This hunt is unique...

-..as it's a tradition

-started by the miners...

-..and you are also unique because

-you're the mistress of this hunt.

-Yes, and Jamie is the master

-who works alongside me.

-But I'm Banwen's first mistress.

-Men dominated the role

-until two years ago.

-Is it a full-time role?

-Is it a full-time role?

-

-No, I'm a solicitor.

-I'm based in the town.

-This is my hobby...

-..but I'm passionate

-about agriculture and hunting.

-The hunt includes 50 hounds

-of Welsh and English breeds.

-Since the hunting ban

-back in 2004...

-..it's evolved into a social event

-for the hunters and their canines.

-Where do you get these dogs?

-Do you buy or breed them?

-No, we don't buy our dogs

-as we usually breed them.

-We use dogs from other hunts, but

-most of them have been bred by us.

-I also help Huw

-with breeding the dogs...

-..and choose the parents.

-We also borrow and lend dogs

-from other hunts.

-Do you also train them as puppies?

-Do you also train them as puppies?

-

-Yes, and we keep older ones.

-During the summer and winter,

-they'll train with older dogs.

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-We're travelling

-to the market town of Neath...

-..which is home

-to one of our oldest markets.

-How long have you been here?

-How long have you been here?

-

-Just over 20 years.

-This stall sells Welsh goods.

-This stall sells Welsh goods.

-

-Yes, totally Welsh.

-There must be a demand for it,

-or you wouldn't be here.

-Yes, our customers

-come from all over.

-We sold a lovespoon

-to an American this morning.

-This is a historic market.

-Yes, it is.

-The market was established

-during Queen Victoria's reign.

-It's the oldest in Wales.

-The heart of every market

-is the butchers.

-The young staff at Coles Butcher

-are following a family tradition.

-The market is old, but

-this stall stems back many years.

-When did it open?

-My family has run this stall

-since 1928.

-My great-grandfather started it.

-It was run by your father

-and grandfather too.

-My young son may also join me

-behind the counter.

-We'll have to wait and see.

-You sell various meats here,

-but where does it come from?

-The meat comes from an abattoir

-in Maesteg and is farmed locally.

-You go directly to them.

-You go directly to them.

-

-Yes, everything is local.

-The quality is better.

-What proves to be popular?

-It depends on the day.

-Do people like steaks on a Friday?

-Do people like steaks on a Friday?

-

-They like a bit of everything.

-There's one more tradition

-before I leave the market.

-The simple things matter in life.

-It's wonderful to see that

-traditions are kept alive.

-My mother used to shop in Neath

-when I was a child...

-..and would bring me to one of

-these cafes for faggots and peas.

-And they're still here today.

-If I wasn't full

-after faggots and peas...

-..I'd maybe devour

-an apple tart and custard.

-Coles Butcher make

-2,000 faggots every week.

-Two of them are here.

-Oh!

-The Castle Hotel

-in the town centre...

-..is significant

-to the rugby world.

-The Welsh Rugby Union

-was formed here over a century ago.

-A native of the area is the

-current president of the Union.

-This is a historical room.

-The Welsh Rugby Union

-was established here.

-But a meeting was held

-prior to it in 1880.

-There was a meeting

-held a year before it...

-..and also a month before

-at the Tenby Hotel in Swansea.

-This is the room...

-..where the Welsh Rugby Union

-was officially established.

-There's an interesting

-list of clubs.

-They included Bangor and Brecon.

-Llandovery and Lampeter...

-..Brecknock and Merthyr...

-..Cardiff, Swansea and Pontypool.

-There were eleven in total.

-We're at the Castle Hotel in Neath.

-It's your home town

-and where you played rugby.

-Yes, that's true.

-The grammar school in Neath

-was excellent in those days.

-I'm glad I went to that school.

-It helped me progress to university.

-You studied at Cambridge University.

-You played full-back for Cambridge.

-You gained a Blue award for rugby.

-But I was still involved

-with Neath.

-You won a Welsh cap

-for playing with the under 18s.

-But you didn't receive a cap

-for Neath and other clubs...

-..because another full-back

-got in your way.

-A full-back

-who played at the same time.

-Wasn't he JPR something?

-Fair play, he wasn't too bad!

-This set of steps

-are famous and historical.

-Go up one side

-and down the other side.

-Someone told me that

-Napoleon slept in this bed.

-He used these steps because

-he was short and the bed was high.

-It helped him jump into bed.

-I'm not sure about the link

-between Napoleon and Neath.

-The event is correct

-but the person is incorrect.

-It was Nelson, not Napoleon.

-Nelson and Lady Hamilton

-stayed in this bed.

-Richard Burton slept here

-with Elizabeth Taylor...

-..and Roy Noble without Elaine!

-The hunting season is over by May

-but the first May Bank Holiday...

-..signifies a momentous day

-in the Banwen Miners Hunt calendar.

-Nia Godsmark has organized the first

-point-to-point races of this season.

-But the cold and dismal conditions

-won't dampen the day's proceedings.

-Every horse and jockey

-can't wait to race the eleven races.

-This is a sort of celebration.

-The hunting season finished

-a couple of months ago.

-This is the start of a new season.

-May Day heralds a new season.

-People flock here from all over.

-Yes, there are horses

-from all the hunts.

-Every horse you see here

-has been used for local hunts.

-The horses look

-all the same to me...

-..but which one should I bet on?

-I haven't got a clue,

-but I do like watching the race.

-Jockey, Ben Jones from Carmarthen is

-following in his father's footsteps.

-Today is an important day for him.

-I won't keep you,

-but are you racing next?

-Yes, I'm racing Lost Glory.

-Shall I bet on him?

-Shall I bet on him?

-

-I'm not sure, I'll try my best.

-Are you an experienced jockey?

-Are you an experienced jockey?

-

-This is my first year.

-Do you enjoy it?

-Do you enjoy it?

-

-Yes, I do.

-I spotted your father earlier

-and he was an experience jockey.

-He had 236 winners.

-How many have you had?

-How many have you had?

-

-Nothing!

-Don't worry and good luck, Ben.

-Don't worry and good luck, Ben.

-

-Thank you.

-# William Tell Overture #

-Gioachino Rossini

-They'll race around

-the course three times.

-And they finish here

-where all the action lies.

-Off we go!

-He's proving to his father that

-racing still runs in the family.

-# William Tell Overture #

-Gioachino Rossini

-How was it for you, Ben?

-How was it for you, Ben?

-

-It was tough and slippery.

-The surface was hard

-and the soil was wet.

-It was awful.

-You came sixth.

-You came sixth.

-

-Yes, I think so.

-Did the horse perform well?

-Did the horse perform well?

-

-Yes, it was his sixth race.

-How do you feel

-about him racing, Dai?

-He rides incredibly well.

-He's a young lad

-who's only had 20 races.

-He's a lot better

-than when I started.

-He's got a good stride

-and seems comfortable.

-He doesn't panic

-when he approaches the fences.

-I think there's a future for him.

-This rugby lad

-has swapped the pitch...

-..for the racecourse today.

-These small races are competitive.

-This horse enjoys it

-and is jumping well today.

-We changed a few tactics

-and he was leading.

-The favourite came from nowhere

-and our jockey was confident.

-I think it was due to the length.

-You haven't got the stature

-or background to be a jockey...

-..unless you've got a shire horse!

-No, I'm not a jockey.

-I enjoy raising and breeding.

-Spring is busy as the mares

-give birth to their foals.

-I'm in my element

-and the family enjoy it.

-It's in your blood.

-I come from a hunting

-background in Llanarth.

-We've always had hunting dogs.

-All I wanted to do after rugby...

-..was breed, raise

-and race my own horses.

-This is how we got into this game.

-Nothing surprises me on this trip.

-The country is awash

-with glorious views.

-The Vale of Neath

-has been a pleasure to visit.

-History is my interest

-and geography is my subject.

-I like to take an unfamiliar route

-or try something new.

-I thought I knew everything

-and everywhere in the Valleys...

-..but it isn't true as a new story

-awaits us around the next corner.

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