Ogofau Llefydd Sanctaidd


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-It isn't hard to understand

-why the beauty of our world...

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-..makes some people

-feel closer to God.

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-But it's harder to understand

-why some people feel that...

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-..venturing down

-to the dark depths of the earth.

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-Today, I go on a journey to try to

-understand why places underground...

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-..have been so important

-in our spiritual history.

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-Wow.

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-The first place I visit

-is in Derbyshire, England.

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-This is Lud's Church, a natural

-chasm that has a unique atmosphere.

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-It has a unique ecology too. Many of

-the plants and ferns are very rare.

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-It's a place on the periphery

-in more than one way.

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-As you descend,

-the temperature drops a few degrees.

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-You feel as if the mossy

-walls are closing in on you.

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-It has an otherworldly atmosphere

-that scares some people...

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-..and attracts others.

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-Is it a place for spirits...

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-..or is it a spiritual place?

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-Lud's Church has

-a very long history.

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-Some believe it was used

-as a holy place by early pagans.

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-Others believe this was

-the terrifying Green Chapel...

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-..in the Mediaeval

-fable of Sir Gawain...

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-..a place for the Devil

-to say his prayers.

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-In the 15th century, Lollards,

-early religious dissenters...

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-..hid here too...

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-..fleeing from persecution

-by the king's soldiers.

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-With labyrinthine corridors

-going in every direction...

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-..Lud's Church feels like

-a building designed by Nature.

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-It's a marvel.

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-It has been a place of retreat

-and of secret worship.

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-So it's a perfect place to start a

-journey to find out what happens...

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-..when holy places

-are located underground.

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-The earliest evidence of our

-ancestors was found in caves...

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-..so it's no wonder that early

-spiritual rites took place in caves.

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-There is a similar site

-near Llandudno...

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-..a cave in the heart of the

-Great Orme, where I'm going next.

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-There is clear evidence

-that people used this site...

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-..over 14,000 years ago.

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-It's one of the oldest

-holy sites in Britain.

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-The view today is just as striking

-as it was 14,000 years ago...

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-..when people first settled here.

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-It was in the Ice Age,

-so the sea was further away.

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-It was an ideal place for people

-who depended on hunting.

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-They could see the animals

-they wanted to hunt...

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-..on the plains around this place.

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-The cave was rediscovered over

-a century ago by Thomas Kendrick.

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-The first thing that strikes us...

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-..is that it doesn't

-look like a cave at all.

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-That was because Thomas Kendrick

-wanted to attract tourists.

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-So he built this summer house

-in front of the cave mouth...

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-..so his visitors could enjoy a

-cup of tea while admiring the view.

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-Its heyday as a tourist

-attraction is long over.

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-But the spiritual significance

-of the cave is still the same.

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-As Kendrick ventured

-deeper into the caves...

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-..he found an unexpected treasure.

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-Bones, seemingly

-of no value at first.

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-Wow.

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-But after scientific tests...

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-..it was discovered they were

-the remains of three Ice Age people.

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-They seem to have been buried here

-as part of a religious ceremony.

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-This isn't the earliest cave

-containing traces of a funeral.

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-That honour goes to Paviland Cave

-on the Gower Peninsula...

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-..dating back over 30,000 years.

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-But this place is remarkable...

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-..because, amongst the human bones,

-they discovered jewellery...

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-..and one unique artefact, which is

-in the British Museum, London, now.

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-It's one of the earliest

-examples of art found in Britain.

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-There's a copy

-of it in the local museum.

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-Here it is...

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-..the engraved jaw bone of a horse.

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-Ice Age horses were smaller

-than horses now, evidently.

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-On the bone, we see a pattern

-of chevrons, carefully incised...

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-..probably with flint.

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-We don't know if this was

-worn as a kind of necklace...

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-..or if it was a religious symbol.

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-We don't know if it was

-made here in Wales...

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-..or carried by people

-who moved here in the Ice Age.

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-The only thing we know...

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-..is that someone took a lot

-of trouble to fashion it.

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-The fact that it was discovered with

-human bones in Kendrick's Cave...

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-..is a strong indication

-that it was left there...

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-..as part of a burial rite.

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-Seeing something like that, linking

-us to our Ice Age ancestors...

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-..was quite an experience.

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-Now, I'm going to a place

-with links to a much later time...

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-..a cave in Northumberland...

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-..and a story about

-one of our early saints.

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-In the Early Church, caves

-were still used for burial rites...

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-..like the Catacombs in Rome.

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-But they could also be

-a refuge for the faithful...

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-..when attacked by their enemies.

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-This isn't an easy place to find.

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-But that's the point.

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-In the ninth century, after Viking

-raids on the Isle Of Lindisfarne...

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-..the monks fled, six miles

-inland, to this place.

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-They brought their

-greatest treasures...

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-..including the body of their

-most famous abbot, St Cuthbert.

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-So this place became a refuge...

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-..for someone who had died

-almost two centuries before.

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-It's a bleak place, although that

-wouldn't have bothered St Cuthbert.

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-The monks didn't stay here long.

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-They travelled in Northern

-England for seven years...

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-..naming several places

-after St Cuthbert...

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-..before finally settling

-in Chester-le-Street.

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-I can understand that

-this would be a perfect place...

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-..to flee from the Vikings.

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-But I can also see why the monks...

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-..wouldn't want to stay

-permanently in such a bleak place.

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-St Cuthbert's Cave

-was a temporary hiding place.

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-But the next cave I visit was home

-to a saint for most of his life.

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-On a day like this,

-who could blame him?

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-I'm back in Wales,

-on the South Pembrokeshire coast.

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-St Govan's Chapel

-in Pembrokeshire...

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-..is the location for one

-of the most dramatic stories...

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-..about holy caves, although

-perhaps not the most credible.

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-The cliffs seem to have been split

-to make room for the small chapel...

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-..right at the bottom,

-almost out of sight.

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-You couldn't find

-a better hiding place.

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-In about 500 AD, St Govan

-came here to live as a hermit.

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-The cliffs were his home...

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-..because the chapel wasn't

-built until the 13th century.

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-I've come to meet Dr Patrick Thomas,

-St David's Cathedral Chancellor...

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-..to learn more about St Govan.

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-Govan came here

-to escape from the world.

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-He came to live a quiet, prayerful

-life, in the presence of God.

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-It was a marvellous place for that.

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-Later, he saw that ships

-were wrecked on rocks here.

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-He did his best to help.

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-But there was a problem...

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-..because the local economy

-depended on shipwrecks.

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-The local Mafia didn't like the fact

-that Govan spoiled things for them.

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-So they came to get rid of him.

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-Govan went to hide...

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-..in a fissure in the cliff.

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-Tradition says he prayed

-and the rock closed around him.

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-You can see the marks

-of ribs on the rock...

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-..as if a body had been there.

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-Govan led an austere life

-on these rocks.

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-But he chose the place

-for a specific reason.

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-Especially for the Celtic saints...

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-..the sound of water was important.

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-They lived either

-on river banks or by the sea.

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-The fact that there

-was a cave was important.

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-It gave him shelter,

-not only from his enemies...

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-..but also when the weather

-was very stormy.

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-But caves are important

-in the Christian tradition...

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-..for other reasons too.

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-In the east, tradition tends to say

-that Jesus was born in a cave.

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-And the grave where

-Jesus was placed was a cave.

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-So they're linked to the most

-fundamental events, life and death.

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-I think perhaps that's why

-they've become so important...

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-..especially in Christianity...

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-..although it's also true

-in other religions.

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-I'm on a journey to find out

-why worshipping underground...

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-..has been such an important

-part of our spiritual history.

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-I've come back to Derbyshire...

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-..to look at one of the best

-examples of a church in a cave.

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-Here it is.

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-It's the Anchor Church, Ingleby.

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-Caves have been important

-in several religions.

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-Mohammed received the revelation...

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-.. that became the basis

-for the Koran in a cave.

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-The Buddha also lived in a cave.

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-For early Christians, as

-we've seen, they offered refuge...

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-..in times of oppression.

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-As Christianity

-became more acceptable...

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-..people didn't have

-to flee to caves any more.

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-But some still chose

-to do so, to find silence...

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-..and peace from the secular world,

-so they could meditate and pray.

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-The name of this place,

-the Anchor Church, reminds us...

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-..that the first person to live

-here was an anchorite, a hermit.

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-Anchorite comes from the Greek word,

-anachoreo, which means to withdraw.

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-Christians began to retreat to

-Ingleby in the 6th or 7th century.

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-It became a very popular site.

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-There are traces of several

-small caves along the cliffs...

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-..where people lived...

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-..as well as the marks

-of holes for candles...

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-..indicating that many small

-huts were built on the cliff.

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-The first hermit we know

-of here was St Hardulph.

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-He was so renowned

-for his saintliness and wisdom...

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-..that people came to see him.

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-Once, he saved

-two nuns from drowning...

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-..when their boat capsized.

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-Looking at these cells, it seems

-that people came here to stay.

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-The point of being a hermit is to

-retreat from the world and people.

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-This was the opposite

-of the original purpose.

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-But as hermits came together

-in places like this...

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-..the first monasteries

-were founded.

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-# AVE VERUM #

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-Even today, this is a remote place.

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-It's easy to sense the tranquillity

-that would appeal to a hermit...

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-..centuries ago.

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-But there's something

-else about this place.

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-When you step into this church...

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-..it's as if you're being

-drawn into the earth.

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-Maybe that's the secret.

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-Maybe the main appeal

-of worshipping underground...

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-..is the fact that you can

-be surrounded by your faith...

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-..and it can be redefined there.

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-This is certainly true about one

-woman, who lived here as a hermit.

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-This is the church

-of St Julian, Norwich.

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-In 1373, a woman came here because

-she had decided to live as a hermit.

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-But she chose to do that

-in a way that demanded...

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-..an amazing level of dedication...

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-..and faith almost beyond

-anything we can imagine now.

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-She was only thirty years old...

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-..when she chose to be

-immured in a small cell...

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-..within the walls of this church,

-for the rest of her life.

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-Julian's original cell was destroyed

-in the Protestant Reformation.

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-But when they restored the church

-after it was bombed in the war...

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-..they found the mediaeval

-foundations of the cell.

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-So this chapel

-was built on that site.

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-Of course, it's much larger

-and lighter than the original cell.

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-But, like the original cell,

-it faces south...

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-..so Julian could enjoy

-some of the warmth of the sun...

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-..that she had vowed

-never to see again.

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-There were three windows,

-or gaps, in the cell.

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-One opened into the church...

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-..so she could see the altar

-and receive communion.

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-Another opened here...

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-..so a servant could

-bring food and remove waste.

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-The third window

-looked out on the street...

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-..so that visitors and pilgrims

-could receive advice or a blessing.

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-People in the Middle Ages...

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-..found this extreme way of life

-and worship just as interesting...

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-..as we do.

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-I've come to meet Sister Pamela...

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-..who lives in the church convent...

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-..to learn more about St Julian...

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-..and how she started

-her life as a hermit.

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-She would have been led here...

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-..from the Benedictine monastery

-at Carrow, just outside the city.

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-The bishop would

-have conducted the service...

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-..which would have been a requiem

-mass - she was being buried.

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-Not in a cave

-or a hole in the ground...

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-..but actually in a small cell.

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-Possibly the brickie would be there

-to actually brick her up...

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-..after she'd been enclosed.

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-Being an anchorite meant that she

-was available then for everybody...

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-..who passed her window.

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-She was the equivalent

-of today's counsellor.

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-She was very ahead of her time with

-lots of the things she was saying.

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-Julian lived in her cell

-for almost forty years...

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-..praying and meditating.

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-She also wrote about

-her spiritual experiences...

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-..which was very unusual

-for women in the Middle Ages.

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-She was the first woman we know of

-to write a book in English.

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-She was contemporary with Chaucer.

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-The ultimate thing, as she said

-at the end of her book...

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-"..Fifteen years or more...

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-"..God showed me in my inward being

-what this was all about.

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-"That love is His meaning.

-Who showed it to you? Love.

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-"What did He show you? Love.

-Why did He show you? For love.

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-"Hold on to this

-and you need not know anything else.

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-"Because love

-is our Lord's meaning."

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-The last step of my journey

-takes me to Yorkshire, to Ripon.

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-After the confines of Julian's cell,

-the cathedral seems huge.

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-Church architecture like this

-appeals to us a great deal.

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-Columns rising to the heights...

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-..stained glass windows,

-a feeling of space and light.

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-For us, the idea of going

-down to the depths of a crypt...

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-..isn't very appealing.

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-But for the first pilgrims to this

-church, it was the main attraction.

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-This building was built

-in the 12th century.

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-But St Wilfrid had built an earlier

-church on the site in 672.

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-Only the crypt remains

-of that original building.

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-But for people at that time,

-visiting this place...

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-..would have been

-a unique experience.

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-The pilgrims made their way

-along that narrow corridor...

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-..into this central chamber.

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-At the time, like now,

-it was lit by lamps...

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-..placed in niches in the wall.

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-Then they looked at this

-large gap in the wall...

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-..where a holy relic was placed.

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-There was an almost theatrical

-atmosphere to the experience.

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-Without a doubt, this place was

-built to create an impression.

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-At the time, there was

-no place like it in Britain.

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-But the true reason why

-the crypt was such an attraction...

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-..was because it was

-an evocation of another cave...

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-..central to

-the Christian tradition.

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-The crypt's design is meant to

-remind us of Jesus Christ's tomb...

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-..where his body lay for three

-days before the Resurrection.

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-Perhaps some of the other caves

-we've visited remind us...

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-..of the security of the womb...

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-..places to be safe,

-or to be reborn in faith.

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-With these two contrasting

-images of birth and death...

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-..caves represent the central

-paradox of Christianity perfectly.

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-How could Jesus, by dying...

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-..enable us to be reborn?

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-It's a very difficult

-concept to understand.

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-But maybe, in a place like this...

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-..we can come a little

-closer to understanding.

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