Llyn a'r Môr Harri Parri


Llyn a'r Môr

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LineFromTo

-888

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-I've been writing short stories

-for quite a few years.

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-Some of them were recently narrated

-to audiences on the Lleyn Peninsula.

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-I was born and raised in Lleyn.

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-I left long ago, but I'm going back

-to rediscover my own personal Lleyn.

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-Here, on the Lleyn Peninsula,

-one is never far from the sea.

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-Strangely, as a child, it was

-the sound of the sea I remember...

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-..groaning from the depths

-of Hell's Mouth in bad weather.

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-The sea has shaped the lives

-of the people of Lleyn...

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-..and was very important to them.

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-As an author, it has been

-very important to me too.

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-There are dozens of caves like

-this one on the Lleyn Peninsula.

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-I'm on Whistling Sands beach.

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-A cave like this one

-was excellent for smugglers.

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-There was a lot of smuggling

-here over the years...

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-..of rare, or illegal, goods.

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-An exciting cargo was concealed...

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-..after some Lleyn locals

-got hold of it a century ago.

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-It was one of this coast's

-most renowned shipwrecks.

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-The Stuart crashed into the rocks

-of Porth Ty Mawr in 1901...

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-..on a day of calm seas.

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-Its cargo would result

-in leading everyone astray.

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-Good afternoon.

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-Good afternoon.

-

-Good afternoon.

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-Some of the plunder can

-be found in some homes even now...

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-..like here in Pwllheli.

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-These plates come from the Stuart?

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-These plates come from the Stuart?

-

-Yes, guaranteed.

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-How did you get them?

-Did you steal them?

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-No!

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-One of the mates had lodgings

-at Ty'n y Ffynnon, my father's home.

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-A mate on the Stuart?

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-Yes.

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-He was on the ship all day...

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-..and he slept at Ty'n y Ffynnon.

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-He would bring a few items

-under his coat.

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-Plates weren't what drove locals

-crazy, but the main cargo...

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-..whisky.

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-Tony Jones from Rhiw...

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-..knows many of the story's secrets.

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-Come in.

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-Come in.

-

-Thank you.

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-So you have something from the ship.

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-Yes, this was part of the cargo.

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-It carried porcelain, bound for

-New Zealand, but it never arrived.

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-Sailors called it general cargo.

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-What did the ship carry?

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-What did the ship carry?

-

-There were six grand pianos.

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-One Llangwnadl lad hurt his back...

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-..trying to carry one

-up the sea cliff.

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-There were whisky bottles

-and whisky barrels.

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-That was when the fun began.

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-The closest customs

-were in Caernarfon.

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-When this Easter gift

-landed on the rocks of Ty Mawr...

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-Was it plundered?

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-Yes.

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-They didn't take everything,

-it was a 1,000-ton ship...

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-..and very many cartloads

-would have been needed to empty it.

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-I don't think they took

-even half the stuff.

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-But they got most

-of the important cargo.

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-They say that countless containers

-full of whisky were found on land...

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-..after the ship was plundered.

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-Even today, the place

-is known as Porth Whisky.

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-There was whisky in bottles...

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-..and in barrels as well

-which held a gallon or two.

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-The lads carried

-the barrels to the hilltop.

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-But their barrels were stolen whilst

-they went down to fetch more.

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-As a deterrent, they removed the

-barrel lid and put their heads in.

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-Then no-one would steal it.

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-Some were so drunk, they slept on

-the hilltop and exhaled blue fumes.

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-I can believe it. It seems

-the party lasted over six months.

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-No-one drowned that day.

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-But why did the Stuart founder? What

-secrets still remain on the beach?

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-They say there's plenty to find...

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-..if you know where to look.

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-"Miss Pringle and the Potato"

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-"Miss Pringle and the Potato"

-

-LAUGHTER

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-The fish people, I call them.

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-Oh, so that explains the fish

-picture above your fireplace?

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-Yes, it was in my front

-window for a while.

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-But those damn visitors were

-knocking on my door at every piss...

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-..asking if I was selling fish.

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-As a child, I remember hearing

-the sea and a few storms.

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-I still remember

-the Bardsey lighthouse...

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-..and the sound of Bardsey's horn.

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-At night, in bed on my own...

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-..I could see the light

-of Bardsey flashing.

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-On a foggy or stormy night,

-if it wasn't too noisy...

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-..I could hear the Bardsey

-horn's repeated hooting.

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-I don't think it induced sleep.

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-One industry that has been

-part of life in Lleyn is fishing.

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-Some people still

-go out in every weather.

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-Many would be amazed to hear that

-Harri Parri is a well-known sailor.

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-It's true, he's an old hand.

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-I've arranged to go

-out fishing with him.

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-Harri Parri?

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-Harri Parri?

-

-Yes.

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-I'm Harri Parri too.

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-I'm Harri Parri too.

-

-Right.

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-We're about the same size.

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-We're about the same size.

-

-Yes.

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-He left a job as a builder

-and turned to fishing.

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-Harri is one of seven fishermen

-working out of Porth Dinllaen.

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-He's a better sailor than me!

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-One question, Harri. Can you swim?

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-A little, perhaps.

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-There's no pleasure

-in swimming in this weather.

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-Many fishermen...

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-Many fishermen...

-

-Can't swim!

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-Very sensible.

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-Very sensible.

-

-Why?

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-The cold will kill you

-before you drown.

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-LAUGHTER

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-What's that? Herring?

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-What's that? Herring?

-

-Yes.

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-Yes.

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-It's not very fresh.

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-It's not very fresh.

-

-No, it's been in salt for some time.

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-When it was caught,

-it was alright to eat.

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-Lobster will go for it?

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-Yes, or crab.

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-Here?

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-Here?

-

-Put it in that tube.

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-That's it.

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-Is this a northerly wind?

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-Is this a northerly wind?

-

-Yes.

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-It can be rough at times.

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-It can be rough at times.

-

-Yes, very rough.

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-This is fine weather for you.

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-Yes, today.

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-And a calm sea.

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-And a calm sea.

-

-Yes.

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-You have to watch the wind.

-It can rise at any time.

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-That's one, at least.

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-One lobster.

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-There are crabs in this one.

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-There are crabs in this one.

-

-Crabs too?

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-That's too small.

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-That's too small.

-

-Will you throw it back in?

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-It can go back in.

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-Is one lobster

-in each pot a good catch?

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-Goodness, yes. That's a good day.

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-This one is big enough to keep.

-I'll put it in the bucket.

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-What happens now? Is it sent away?

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-It'll probably

-go to France or Spain.

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-How much would it cost in Paris?

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-How much would it cost in Paris?

-

-I've no idea.

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-Ten times what I get for it!

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-Ten times what I get for it!

-

-Probably.

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-Do you enjoy the work?

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-I enjoy it more than construction.

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-No-one complains here!

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-No-one listens, apart from the sea.

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-No, only seagulls.

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-Although Harri makes a living...

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-..there's no comparison

-with former times.

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-At one time, a fish factory on this

-beach employed hundreds of people.

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-Of course, the major industry

-used to be Nefyn herring.

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-There was an old song.

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-"Nefyn herring, fresh from the sea

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-"Backs like farmers,

-bellies like taverners

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-"Nefyn herring, fresh from the sea"

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-In the second part,

-the pieces fall into place...

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-..as more of the Stuart's secrets

-come to light at Porth Ty Mawr.

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-.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-We must remember that the only

-practical way to travel...

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-..to and from Lleyn was by sea.

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-It was very busy at one time.

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-Coal was imported,

-guano for the soil, animals...

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-..and lime sometimes.

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-But the trade routes also led

-to new hope and a new world.

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-It was a way to leave Lleyn.

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-That's what hundreds

-of people did in the early 1800s.

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-Some of my family emigrated

-from Porth Colmon in 1825.

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-I know what happened to them...

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-..because the journey and prayer

-meeting on the beach...

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-..before they left were documented.

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-Watch over our brothers and sisters

-during their long voyage...

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-..to a better land.

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-Everyone was aware

-of the dangers facing them.

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-There was no certainty that

-they would reach their destination.

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-Thinking of people leaving Lleyn

-from somewhere like Porth Colmon...

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-..brings a lump to my throat.

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-They were leaving forever.

-They would never meet again.

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-Brothers, sisters, lovers, two about

-to get married, parents, children.

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-Great courage was needed to take

-the decision in the first place.

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-Something must have driven them.

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-No-one emigrates like that

-and divides a family...

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-..unless something drives them.

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-Great poverty, or a dream, perhaps.

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-A dream of a better

-life and country...

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-..perhaps setting up

-a small Lleyn in America.

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-The fifty people who left

-that day were fortunate.

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-The voyage to New York State

-could take six months.

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-But this crew were at sea for

-only nine weeks and all survived.

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-Traces of the community

-they founded can still be seen.

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-The story of leaving

-Lleyn is well-known.

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-# There's a key

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-# In the church

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-# A wedding ring

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-# For the parish poor #

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-"There's a key in the church,

-a wedding ring for the parish poor

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-"I'll return in the bell-ringer's

-chest, we won't need it any more"

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-I see a tear in your eye.

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-I feel quite emotional,

-especially here in Porth Colmon.

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-Why did those fifty

-people leave Lleyn?

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-Was it because of poverty?

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-The landlords set high rents.

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-People couldn't pay their taxes.

-Wages were low.

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-They'd heard about people

-who emigrated in the 17th century.

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-I think it was also

-the period of land enclosures.

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-People lost grazing land.

-There was less of it available.

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-But they must have

-paid for their passage.

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-They were poor. So how did they pay?

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-Of those fifty people...

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-..it seems that only four

-could pay for their passage.

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-The rest owed money to the captain.

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-They had arranged with

-the captain to work on the ship.

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-After arriving

-at their destination...

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-..they were in debt for two years,

-until they repaid the captain.

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-They must have been

-desperate to find a better life.

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-It was tough here.

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-It was tough here.

-

-Yes.

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-Porth Colmon is a special place.

-It reminds me of Ireland.

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-I've had a thing about Ireland for

-many years. It's similar to Lleyn.

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-They say the short

-stories of Connemara...

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-..and those of rural Lleyn

-are quite similar.

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-There's a style of short story

-that belongs to peninsulas...

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-..and to people who live in

-the most remote stretches of land.

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-MOO

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-LAUGHTER

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-"The Wedding of Nuala Mulligan"

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-"The Wedding of Nuala Mulligan"

-

-O'Reilly went

-on a pilgrimage to Canaan.

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-When offered a boat trip on the

-Sea of Galilee, he asked the price.

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-The Jew answered, "10."

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-O'Reilly said, "No wonder

-Peter walked on the water."

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-Yes, I like people. I must do.

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-What I like about some people

-is that they're different.

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-People who make their own way.

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-People like that

-always appeal to me.

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-People who hoe their own row.

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-Ordinary people,

-who might lack resources...

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-..who struggle to live,

-they appeal to me.

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-I like those individuals

-with different petrol in the tank...

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-..who drive in a different direction

-through wind, rain and fine weather.

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-My great-grandfather

-grew up in this harbour...

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-..over the water,

-in a humble cottage in a row.

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-He must have been quite brave.

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-As a young man, he went to distant

-Australia to look for gold.

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-I don't know how much he found.

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-He was brave, just to go so far.

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-When he came back from Australia...

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-..my great-grandfather joined

-the Abersoch lifeboat crew.

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-I'd like to know more about him.

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-Gareth, I'd like

-to find my great-grandfather.

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-There might be a record of him here.

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-I think he was on this boat.

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-Yes, that lifeboat was the Oldham.

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-Was he a pilot?

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-We'd call him a coxswain today.

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-What was the boat like?

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-What was the boat like?

-

-It was a sail and row boat.

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-When there was no wind, they had

-to row to where they wanted to go.

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-If the wind was favourable,

-they could sail.

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-He was responsible for the boat

-and directing the volunteer crew.

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-Is this the boat?

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-Yes.

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-Really?

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-Where would my grandfather be?

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-Here.

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-Does he look like me?

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-Does he look like me?

-

-Yes, he looks a lot like you.

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-But a braver man, I'm sure.

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-I don't know about that!

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-They're all men, but there's

-one woman here. Who is she?

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-This lady was responsible for

-raising the crew in an emergency.

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-She'd go to knock on doors.

-She was known as the knocker-upper.

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-Really?

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-Really?

-

-Yes.

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-Very interesting.

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-How often are you called out

-to an emergency in a year?

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-This year, since February,

-we've been out fourteen times.

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-We've been out four times this week.

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-That often!

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-Yes. We can usually launch the boat

-within five minutes after a call.

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-As quickly as that.

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-Back in Porth Whisky...

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-..some of the secrets of the

-Stuart's wreck are still hidden.

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-But Bryn Jones, the landowner,

-knows where to look.

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-Ah!

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-There you are.

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-Are these from the Stuart?

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-Yes, for sure.

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-There's an edge here, a pot perhaps.

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-Why were these found here whereas

-the ship and sea were over there?

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-I don't know why that was.

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-There's more here again.

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-There's plenty here.

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-Perhaps someone hid them,

-after taking them from the ship.

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-Things were hidden, weren't they?

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-Things were hidden, weren't they?

-

-Yes, so they say.

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-Whisky was hidden in rabbit warrens

-and all sorts of places.

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-I have an inkling that the people of

-Llangwnadl stole most of the cargo.

0:21:130:21:18

-Everything they could carry.

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-What exactly happened

-on that day in 1901...

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-..when the Stuart was wrecked

-on Ty Mawr's rocks, in calm sea?

0:21:300:21:35

-Ioan Roberts grew up locally and

-is quite an expert on the subject.

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-What was the true story?

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-It's probable that there was a link

-between the cargo and the disaster.

0:21:460:21:52

-Nineteen young men with thousands of

-free whisky bottles around them...

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-..and no supervisor.

0:21:570:21:59

-In short, the crew were drunk.

0:22:000:22:02

-In short, the crew were drunk.

-

-Yes, captain and crew.

0:22:020:22:04

-The official verdict was that

-the ship hadn't been sailed...

0:22:040:22:07

-"..with proper and seamanlike care."

0:22:080:22:10

-Even children were drunk, it seems.

0:22:100:22:13

-There were all sorts of stories.

0:22:130:22:15

-I heard some of the old people

-tell this story.

0:22:150:22:19

-A young girl filled her bloomers

-with bottles and couldn't walk...

0:22:190:22:24

-..because of their weight.

0:22:240:22:25

-Lleyn courtesy is well known.

0:22:260:22:28

-You won't believe this...

0:22:280:22:30

-..but I have a whisky bottle here.

0:22:300:22:33

-This comes from the Stuart, 1901.

0:22:330:22:36

-Well, well, well!

0:22:360:22:38

-As you see...

0:22:390:22:40

-You've drunk some of it.

0:22:400:22:42

-Not quite! It has evaporated.

0:22:420:22:44

-Yes.

0:22:450:22:46

-That's from the Stuart.

0:22:470:22:48

-That's from the Stuart.

-

-Thank you.

0:22:480:22:49

-I have another here.

0:22:490:22:51

-One each? Well! Shall we

-maintain the old tradition?

0:22:520:22:56

-I'll wish you good health.

0:22:560:22:58

-If you want to know where I got

-the whisky, I'm not telling you.

0:23:030:23:07

-I'm not telling

-whether we drank it either.

0:23:070:23:11

-The sea has been important to the

-people of Lleyn over the centuries.

0:23:130:23:18

-And the tide still ebbs and flows.

0:23:180:23:22

-The sea is essential

-to the life of Lleyn today...

0:23:220:23:26

-..as it will be in the future.

0:23:260:23:28

-S4C Subtitles by Gwead

0:23:500:23:52

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0:23:520:23:53

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